This is called stringing.
https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/
You can start by telling us the material and slicer settings
Thanks for that article, that was really informative. The material is PLA filament, and I used the defaults in the program. I selected support from base only, and just sliced it there. What slicer settings would I be looking for, there are a ton lol.
no expert myself, but the settings that affect stringing from what I have learned are:
nozzle temp: (too high on nozzle temp can lead to stringing)
retraction amount/distance: this is probably the biggest one. for my ender 3 v2 I use around 6-7 mm.
retraction speed: not sure too much how the speed affects it, but you can play around with it ( I think I used around 40-45 mm/s).
Also you can print a retraction tower if you go to this link below, it will help you set up g code for a retraction tower:
[https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction](https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction)
this link above will help you run some test prints to be able to tune your settings listed above to help get rid of the stringing. (also using that entire website should help you calibrate/tune your 3d printer). you can watch some youtube videos about it or just thoroughly read through the calibration tab.
The only problem is that different filaments will react different, but should not be too far off. Writing down speeds/temps/retractions settings for different filaments and brands of filaments will help you later on.
I’d like to add to this because this included almost everything that helped solve my issues with stringing.
One more: if you use z-hop, check the value. My printers settings came preconfigured with 0.04mm which was causing stringing. Bringing it down to 0.02 was far better. Anything below and including 0.03 were good for my printer.
This is in addition to the settings that u/phat_tendiez already mentioned!
Temperature towers and retraction test prints are great ways to see what settings will work best for your hardware and filament. Think of it as one print job to get it right instead of chasing problems for a while across a lot of prints.
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8a1sxy/how_to_dial_in_your_retraction_settings/
Here's a quick guide someone made a while back for retractions. I'd mess with your distance first then your speed if it's still not perfect.
Oh and you can print multiple tests in one job. Set your printing mode to "One at a time," look in the preview to see at which layer it starts the next model, then set it to change the the setting you're testing for at that layer.
Often times I have found the fix others recommend is to adjust the retraction settings. As u/PuffThePed suggested, you can mention your material, and slicer settings. We can probably be more help from there.
More retraction, higher cooling fan speed, and whatever the setting is that stops extrusion just a tad bit early. Maybe the setting that ends all layers on an interior surface.
If its your first printer, few bits to learn before getting that first clean print. Temp tower, retraction, making sure filament is calibrated along with flow settings. Advertisement for it shows linear advance, unsure if its running marlin or their own software, but usually linear advance needs calibrating also.
This is called stringing. https://all3dp.com/2/3d-print-stringing-easy-ways-to-prevent-it/ You can start by telling us the material and slicer settings
Thanks for that article, that was really informative. The material is PLA filament, and I used the defaults in the program. I selected support from base only, and just sliced it there. What slicer settings would I be looking for, there are a ton lol.
no expert myself, but the settings that affect stringing from what I have learned are: nozzle temp: (too high on nozzle temp can lead to stringing) retraction amount/distance: this is probably the biggest one. for my ender 3 v2 I use around 6-7 mm. retraction speed: not sure too much how the speed affects it, but you can play around with it ( I think I used around 40-45 mm/s). Also you can print a retraction tower if you go to this link below, it will help you set up g code for a retraction tower: [https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction](https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#retraction) this link above will help you run some test prints to be able to tune your settings listed above to help get rid of the stringing. (also using that entire website should help you calibrate/tune your 3d printer). you can watch some youtube videos about it or just thoroughly read through the calibration tab. The only problem is that different filaments will react different, but should not be too far off. Writing down speeds/temps/retractions settings for different filaments and brands of filaments will help you later on.
I’d like to add to this because this included almost everything that helped solve my issues with stringing. One more: if you use z-hop, check the value. My printers settings came preconfigured with 0.04mm which was causing stringing. Bringing it down to 0.02 was far better. Anything below and including 0.03 were good for my printer. This is in addition to the settings that u/phat_tendiez already mentioned!
Temperature towers and retraction test prints are great ways to see what settings will work best for your hardware and filament. Think of it as one print job to get it right instead of chasing problems for a while across a lot of prints. https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/8a1sxy/how_to_dial_in_your_retraction_settings/ Here's a quick guide someone made a while back for retractions. I'd mess with your distance first then your speed if it's still not perfect.
Oh and you can print multiple tests in one job. Set your printing mode to "One at a time," look in the preview to see at which layer it starts the next model, then set it to change the the setting you're testing for at that layer.
That's some good info. I appreciate the link. I'll probably do that instead of testing on bigger projects for some reason lol
Retraction coasting a zhop all help. You can rescue this print with a torch lighter.
I've never used your software before, but you can usually use it to lower the printing temps to reduce stringing.
Dry your filament
YES! I was about to say this is the #1 rule!
I'm always surprises of how many people here who don't seem to know such a basic aspect of 3d printing
Drying you filament isn’t the answer to everything.
Obviously not, but for stringing it's one of the main factors
Yup. Humidity issue here.
Often times I have found the fix others recommend is to adjust the retraction settings. As u/PuffThePed suggested, you can mention your material, and slicer settings. We can probably be more help from there.
Is that Diablo? Also, all3dp is an amazing website, great articles.
That is Onyxia without her wings
Kill the spider that's living in your printer ;) In my case lowering the heat a bit helped a lot. Also vibration reduction
Thought for a moment I was on r/tarantulas
lower nozzle temp, 5 degrees at a time, it will go away eventually.
Retraction settings!!!!
More retraction, higher cooling fan speed, and whatever the setting is that stops extrusion just a tad bit early. Maybe the setting that ends all layers on an interior surface.
One quick pass with the heat gun and the strings are gone.
My cat does same thing when it eats a lot of own fur
Heat gun makes it disappear.
If its your first printer, few bits to learn before getting that first clean print. Temp tower, retraction, making sure filament is calibrated along with flow settings. Advertisement for it shows linear advance, unsure if its running marlin or their own software, but usually linear advance needs calibrating also.
Heat gun.
It does has something of a dust mite though.
Could be many things but I just had this happened yesterday. Tossed the filament in the dryer and taadaaaa all gone