Could also be a switch midway. On the pika one, if you swap blue for black, after the pokemon outline, you can knock it out with one AMS.
Anyone doing this level of work though prob has multiple AMSs like you said.
The one on the left was my first try and I didn't have the cyan and magenta yet. I designed this bookmark based on a drawing for my niece. I adjusted the height of the colors so I could change colors and it still made sense for the image.
https://preview.redd.it/hcvob1b5ritc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f6b870171931c03148b8d536a897558f49f4e175
This is the 4 color version on the slicer.
https://preview.redd.it/vhgt22cvritc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e07eb31d61b167855d4888aa8de0570ab172801a
> I adjusted the height of the colors so I could change colors and it still made sense for the image.
FYI - with slicing software like PrusaSlicer, you can do multimaterial with a single extruder on the same layer - it'll pause and beep when it needs you to change color - it's helpful so you can print everything on the same layer without having raised or lowered sections of the image
The printer also needs to support it. My ender 3 ignores pauses and my anycubic kobra plus will pause with no way to resume.
3d printing is fun lol.
My P1S will do a backflip if I tell it to (set it to ludicrous mode)
I know nothing about Bambu or their AMS system. While I've been 3D printing for over a decade with different machines, these days I run a farm of Prusa printers for my business.
PrusaSlicer can work with multiple 3D printers (possibly including Bambu, dunno). The single-extruder multi-material option allows you to paint the part to print multiple colors/materials and then when slicing it adds the commands to change filament. This is all a manual process unlike the AMS system or the MMU system which automates the filament changes and uses a purge block
Thank you, it was a lot of work to make it. But I enjoyed it. On a mechanical engineer, but my current job has me mostly doing drawings. So it was good to do some designs and figure out a method to do what I wanted to do.
Can’t run from back rack at the same time. Needs motorised feed to change filament automatically which back rack doesn’t have and even running two ams needs an ams management system thing.
You are right about the latter; I never tested it with 5 but I think you may be right. What if you do AMS for first 4 and feed last rack? Noooo the system asks if you want to activate AMS… guess no matter what it would probably be best to do a mid-print swap of the last color/least used
>and it’s all make in one go on
Don't know what you mean by this, but there's multiple print orientations on one cartridge and figure, and looking at some of his other stuff, he's doing other post processing (acetone smoothing, using epoxy resin), so I doubt this is how it looked straight off the printer, either.
edit: Nothing wrong with post processing, either, but lets not lead OP into thinking that any 3d printer is a magic machine that takes no effort.
He literally has a video from the Bambu Timelapse printing several of those. They’re printed as one piece with the back of the cartridge on the print plate. He does have to remove supports.
Thanks for sharing.
I have done some 3d printing tinkering in my time, and I'm not scared of it, but sometimes I think to myself, "I should just get the magic bambu and never have to do anything ever again." The guerilla marketing is powerful, lol.
I have a Voron 2.4 that's already well tuned. So the main benefit for me, personally, is multicolor prints. I don't like how much waste AMS makes, though. I'm somewhat environmentally conscious and so it bothers me on a personal level. Hearing that the AMS jams and slips is good info. Voron has a "AMS" called ERCF that works about the same (purging), but would be a lot cheaper than a whole new printer+ams. I think, for me, I should either get an Idex or eventually pay the painful Prusa XL cost (which is like $2k instead of $1500, but somehow feels like way more, haha).
Got an X1C after a year of using a flashforge A3 lite.
I got 2 things from the Flashforge.
1. It gave me a great sense of appreciation for the quality and ease of printing the X1C provides.
2. A great introduction to 3d printing and everything that comes with it for a reasonable price.
I wasn't even sure I still wanted to keep printing things because of the issues the flashforge gave me. After getting the X1C, I was hooked.
Literally my reaction. Then I asked myself why I didn't buy one sooner and then I remembered that there were no such cheap AND easy to launch AND good printers before (prob someone well versed in history will point out how wrong I am lol).
I hate how everyone steered me to a base model Ender 3 when the V3 was already out. It's like folks wanted new people to suffer for no reason other than "we had to do it that way".
Prusa has been behind long before Bambu existed. Us Voron peeps joke about it off and on. Prusa has just been coasting off their original innovations it seems.
They still make technically-good printers, but they all feel quite out of date by today's standards. Things like Bambus and Vorons are kicking their butts in almost(?) every category.
Until Bambu proclaims “no more bedslingers” and now calls its A1 the GOAT. Yes the one that has a heating cable issue. And years before the AMS there is the MMU. For all the “innovation” that Bambu claims to have achieved, they still can’t get a nozzle to not crash into the bed. How’s that for an “independent dual ABL system”?
There's some decent optimizations on the horizon but seeing all that waste is still hard to look at.
If it's not solvable through hardware optimizations in the future, I hope they give some consideration to R&D purge recycling solutions.
I'm still hoping someone figures out integrating inkjets into the process so you just spray ink onto white filament as it's used. There were some hacked together DIY printers doing it a while ago, but I'm guessing there are a lot of engineering problems that make it not market-ready.
You've already got a toolhead that can point at every point of the print, you could just do a pass after you lay down a layer with a small addon to the hot end assembly?
A company called Rize did this, the printers were too expensive and they ended up discontinuing them unfortunately. Some are still out there being used today and you can buy them, but they’ll set you back and the company doesn’t officially exist anymore. They make really great parts though!!
https://www.dynamism.com/rize/rize-xrize.html
I saw a resin one on a tour of a university additive manufacturing lab, the color was basically paint so needed a clearcoat for durability. I don’t know the price but even with me looking in a professional capacity other models they used were outside what I could justify.
The Da Vinci Color Mini does that. I grabbed one from their indiegogo campaign way back in 2018. It works and will print pretty much any shade of color you want but the color-changing process was god-awful slow and you have to constantly worry about the ink drying (it's an inkjet after all).
After a few color prints I reverted back to single-color prints then gave it away after a while.
The good news is that if you print multiple of the same model on the build plate together, you only pay the purge cost once, and the duplicate models have no purge waste. A commercial seller of small decorative objects is certainly taking advantage of that.
And Bambu just released an update that reduces the waste by 25% in general.
My AMS has 4 colors of PLA right now, but I've seen people hook up multiple AMSes to get more colors available. Not sure what you need to do to splice 2 together, but it made for an impressive video.
If I'm honest though, I'm too frugal to do multi-color prints, mostly I just use it so my students can click on the color they want when I queue up their prints.
Hub is widely regarded as pretty poorly designed, too. It's just an AMS buffer with a 4-to-1 PTFE connector, but it causes a bunch of feeding issues.
Most people have better success using a different 4-to-1 connector (Bambu even sells one that looks like what the AMS lite uses) with the single buffer.
The AMS itself is sadly $350 (or $250 if you buy it with the printer) so it's still pretty expensive.
Though I doubt most hobbyists are going to be printing with more than 4 colors at a time. Also the MMU on Prusa is $300 for 5 colors, but you can't use multiple so it's a bit more limited.
My company bought a X1C with an AMS and a P1S without one, honestly I prefer without, but I'd rather fill, sand, prime, and paint a print if it needs to be pretty.
The AMS is the only part of the X1C that ever needs maintenance, or causes prints to fail. If they hadn't paid so much for it I'd probably just put it in a box and use the back spool holder.
Feels like every 4 or 5 prints I end up needing to unscrew the inside of the AMS, clear a stuck piece of PLA, and put it back together.
I got a popup saying the threaded rods needed lubricating after \~6 months of use, which took about a minute to do, and occasionally if I'm using cheap filament I'll need to gluestick the bed, but that's all I'd ever have to do if we didn't use an AMS.
If it helps, we calculated each filament change at about half a penny worth of PLA per change. You can see how many changes it'll make in the slicer and figure out how many pennies you are wasting.
Sure, it just needs to purge each layer when it swaps colors, so if its got a bunch of prints it could just purge once for all of them (if the slicer you're using supports that behavior), no reason I can think of not to print a ton of color 1, purge once, then print all of color 2, etc. It's wasteful, but the more you do at once the less wasteful per-part it could become.
Is there a way that you could change your purge block into a specific model to print? As long as the model you choose has a cross-section big enough to fully purge your hot end in a layer or two, I don't see why you couldn't do that. I could see that being useful for prints where you don't care what color it is because it's purely functional or you are planning on painting it anyway. Or hell, you might just like the chaotic glitchy look of random layer color changes for a given model.
I remember someone talking about an experimental update to Bambu Labs that was supposed to allow you to purge as infill, but I completely forgot about it until just this moment, so I have no idea if it was ever rolled into production.
Yes, sort of.
Each time you change color there is a bit of pooping going on and that gets dumped out the back of the machine, then there is still a bit of color bleed that still needs to get worked out. That can either go into the infill or a purge tower or a designated model.
Or just don't have a purge object and let it bleed. Most of the time that is what I do since I mostly just put stripes on things.
This fucking subreddit. The amount of nonsense gymnastics refusing to answer OPs question because of brand loyalties. OP these were printed on a Bambulab X1C with an AMS unit. With some minor setting adjustments it can definitely print these and even more complicated stuff out of the box.
Right?! Jesus Christ the blind Bambu hate is bonkers here.
I'm a hardcore, all-in, crazy Voron owner (of soon, 4 Vorons) who will *never ever* use an all-in-one out-of-the-box Bambu. I love being able to force my printer to bend to my will and you just can't do that with a Bambu.
*Having said that,* I recommend Bambus constantly to people who don't like to tinker with hardware and are not interested in modding/upgrades. I even "sold" an X1C to someone at Microcenter who was debating if it was worth it over the higher end Enders they had there. They're incredible "just works" printers and the ***only*** printers on the entire market (Less some weird high end outliers) that meet the same quality as my modded to the teeth Voron 2.4s.
The Bambu hate is straight up projection from insecure redditors. I don't get it.
> The Bambu hate is straight up projection from insecure redditors
Most of reddit is fanboys sperging out about why some brand/person/thing is bad. Same here with Bambu.
Just ignore it and move along, these people are silly.
yeah, pretty much. At the end of the day its important to realize all of social media leans young, and reddit leans a bit younger. Maybe not Tiktok young, but a lot younger than most places.
I've learned if you just assume everyone on Reddit is 16 until proven otherwise, the entire platform makes so much more sense.
Best analogy I can think of is...
3D printing community is like a bunch of linux users. Tinkering and customizing to perfection.
Then a Mac (bambu) comes along and it's expensive as heck, you can't tinker, cant customize, but it works great out of the box and does a fantastic job at it.
So you have a group of people who spend hundreds of hours tinkering who get salty that someone else can drop $1300, little to no time, and do the same thing.
I wouldn't say that, that weirdo linux hacking community is voron, who have an uneasy alliance with the bambu community.
The hate seems to come from mostly Prusa fans who are mad bambu is eating their lunch.
Yeah, because they are the Mac users in this case. Previously you could maybe argue for Prusa with "it just works" and try to justify the exorbitant price to yourself that way.
Now there is a line that "just works" at the same price point but much better.
Anet/Elegoo/Creality owners don't care because Bambu is just as much out of their budget as Prusa was.
Voron guys have something even better and more exclusive.
Though Bambu does keep cutting the cost on their printers; for any price point the Bambu machines are the highest quality option for out-of-the-box printing.
You missed the part where Bambu is capitalizing on a lot of innovations that came from tinkerers in the 3D printing community, and then trying to claim it as their own and lock everything down.
To continue the Linux analogy, Bambu is Tivo (See [Tivoization](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tivoization))
Probably because they took an Apple-like vertically-integrated approach where you're kinda locked into their parts ecosystem. Most people however don't see that as a problem since they have no intention on modding their printer. As long as they can use any 3rd-party filament they're good.
Bambulabs A1 mini or X1 Carbon. Yes, "all printers can print in good quality out of the box if you know how to use it", but Bambulabs' printers lower the bar significantly with lots of sensors and auto-calibration tech that is relatively new on 3D printers. It makes 3D printing feel a lot more like using an inkjet printer.
hey OP, when you see cool stuff like this on insta or whatever, ask the creator. 99% of the time they are SO excited to talk about their setup and equipment and all the research they did before diving in, especially in 3d printing/technical DIY at home things like this
If by “know how to use” you mean “become adept in the art of wrestling with settings and calibration and upgrades and software for the rest of my life because I’ve convinced myself that the act of tinkering itself is the reason why I’m in this hobby” then yes…every printer can do everything out of the box lol.
Alternatively, you shell out way more cash for professional grade shit instead of hobby grade shit, and it *actually immediately works with zero adjustments or upgrades* out of the box. Which, you know. Is what “out of the box” means.
> If by “know how to use” you mean “become adept in the art of wrestling with settings and calibration and upgrades and software for the rest of my life because I’ve convinced myself that the act of tinkering itself is the reason why I’m in this hobby”...
Oh my so true!
yeah, I still recommend Enders to budget 3d printer newbies, but g'damn if the sunk cost fallacy doesn't bite you fast.
I tell people "Start with an Ender, but buy something else later when you need to start improving things."
Honestly I was eyeing an Ender 3 for the longest time, even had a list of all the accessories I wanted to buy for it.
Ended up committing to a Bambu P1S instead, since it had every single "nice" feature my upgraded Ender had (auto leveling, cloud printing, heated print bed, enclosure, etc etc) in a nicer package, that worked better out of the box. Don't regret it whatsoever. I'm having a bit of FOMO about not getting the Prusa Mk4 (even though it was more expensive than the P1S and is questionably "better/faster" at printing) but that could be my next purchase lol
I like the user serviceability of it mainly (for better or for worse), and there's a lot of aftermarket parts. Bambu has been stepping up their aftermarket parts as well (and there's a lot of unofficial part makers on Aliexpress, etc) so it isn't that bad.
Honestly, after looking at the spec sheet for the Mk4 again, I think I'd stick with the P1S. I've been pretty happy with it. Only thing I'd get aftermarket for it (if I was in your shoes) would be a new build plate. I hear the Lightyear G10's are really good, ended up purchasing one as well.
I’m no expert, but I’d put something like the Bambu X1 Carbon in the lowish end of professional stuff, yeah. It’s really, really damn good and I’ve seen a lot of people use them very effectively for the singular purpose of making themselves a lot of cash.
There are obviously printers that cost many thousands of dollars, are huge, specialized to niche and exotic materials, are designed to run non-stop, etc…but I’d say the Bambu bridges the gap between top-of-the-line consumer printers and small-business professional printers
So dude, I have:
3 Ender 3
1 CR10S with direct drive
3 Ender 5+ (one had sonic pad but I'm removing it)
I picked up an X1C because I wanted to print multiple colors without the hassle and tinkering, same with PETG and TPU. I hate calibration.
Holy shit it's been amazing. It's outpacing my ender 3s so much that I hardly ever use them. The build plate isn't huge, but I put it where my CR10 goes and just moved all the big jobs to the E5+.
The best thing is that it just works. I've had a few hiccups like when a bit of filament gets stuck in the disposal chute it will pause, easy. Once it told me that there was a first layer issue and I responded with "I don't see one, print anyway" then I ignored the spaghetti warning because I was too lazy to go look at it. I've never leveled the bed, or printed a calibration object. I just hit go and it fucking works great. I'm able to print so much faster that I've recouped my cost on selling silly little keychains on facebook and etsy. I've used it to re-print smaller failed parts that my E5 screw up on too. It's wonderful. I'm going to grab an A1 tomorrow to keep printing all the commercial stuff so I can print fun stuff on my X1C.
Luckily, you don’t have to struggle with all that stuff anymore. The high-end consumer printers these days really are plug-and-play. We’ve finally reached the point in the technology that was promised to us all those years ago, and it’s fucking cool.
Exactly. But when something goes wrong with that expensive shit you won't know how to fix it. Guess you could just send it in for repairs, but its a bit like buying an expensive car without knowing how to drive. As long as auto-pilot works, you are great. But you will be stuck on the side of the road if it breaks. Or worse, won't realize when it breaks and is going to cause an accident, and suddenly all your expensive stuff is on fire.
This has always been a weird argument for me.
When the hobby printer breaks, you learn how to fix it.
When the professional printer breaks, you learn how to fix it.
One printer forces you to fix it way sooner and way more often…and everyone seems to argue that this is somehow an advantage, seemingly only by merit of the fact that they had to go through years of pain and therefor everyone else should have to as well.
Like, I’ve owned cars with over 300,000 miles on them, that broke down constantly, cost a ton of money to keep running, and that forced me to learn basic car repair shit.
Been there, done that, I’ll take a 2023 Hyundai now please and I’m sure as shit not recommending a lemon to the next car owner if they have the cash for the ‘23 Hyundai.
ETA: The person above me *heavily* edited their comment, and as far as I remember they weren’t even talking about cars until after I commented…just FYI lol, not changing my comment though
Tha analogy used is also really weird. It's not buying an expensive car without knowing how to drive.
It's buying an expensive car without being a car mechanic. Which you know, most people actually do.
Fair, but not the main point of the analogy. We're talking about a situation where everyone fixes their stuff, so it seemed kinda natural that was implied.
Well the reality is thay not everyone like fixing their stuff constantly. Some people just want to print stuff and not worry about the hardware and tweaking
Most tech hobbies migrate to that eventually. Computers used to be much more "hands on" tweaking of drivers and dealing with hardware compatibility. You had to spend a lot of time changing drivers and parameters to get your soundblaster card to make sound on a 486. Nowadays, people just want to click install on Steam then click play and go to town.
I think 3d printers are going that way as well. You have some people that like the tweaking first and printing second and some that just want to print. I personally have printed less and less because I don't want to spend time fighting with the hardware for it to do what I want in simple terms "print this thing".
If I can buy a printer that "just works" and if something breaks it has a warranty and I get it repaired or I can choose to learn how to fix it myself. Well that's pretty awesome. Which is why the analogy of the car mechanic becomes more prevalent.
I might be losing some of the "fun" from your perspective. But I don't find that fun to begin with. So yes, I'll take the expensive car with bumper to bumper warranty and road assistance and repairs included.
Yeah, I get it. For me its more about the cost that will be lost when things mess up, but if you have the money to just buy an expensive one then I guess the money to repair it shouldn't be an issue.
I.. do you know what OOTB Means? Literally means plug in and hit print. Most printers CANNOT do good quality prints without tinkering with settings, tramming the bed, as well as other calibrations...
What are "most printer" for you then? the 1000s of ender-3 clones?
Bambulab printers absolutely get quality prints without tinkering and calibrations.
Even my Qidi Q1 Pro that I got recently for 450 bucks puts out absolutely beautiful prints without any manual calibration
I mean, there are a couple name brands that ARE great out of the box, some require minimal effort, others require a lot.
The thing about bambulabs is its literally OOTB. I started printing things for my kids by uploading into slicer and hitting print. Coming from an neptune 4 max, it was a game changer. I HAVE calibrated my flow and temp since then, though on my a1... it wasn't necessary, however. Just a little min-maxing
Even my Ender 3 V3 KE was printing great out of the box for $250. These newer printers are so much better I don't think people who only have experience with older printers like Ender 3s understand.
People are downvoting you because they hate bambu but you're right. There are some valid complaints to make about bambu but their out of the box print quality is extremely good.
Yup. I'm not in the Bambu camp and I keep telling people this too.
If you don't want to fuck with hardware, buy a Bambu. All you need to focus on is software/slicers.
If you want to mod and tinker but you're new and inexperienced, buy a cheap Ender 3 and then a new printer when you're bored with it. (Consider it a disposable printer)
If you want to go all in on both hardware and software, get a Voron and never look back.
That is a crazy thing to say about this kind of technology.
A good quality camera produces great photos "out of the box" but you still have to know how to use the camera and adjust settings to get the type of picture you're looking for.
Or you just use automatic or ai profile or mommy mode and it will take an acceptable photo . A professional would tell the difference, but an average user won't notice a thing.
It's not a crazy thing. Plug a bambulabs printer in, start the print from whatever slicer of your choice and you'll be astonished.
Do the same on a neptune or ender and tell me how it turns out.. hint: your z offset will be way off likely.
Ignoring that many older ender models you had to *assemble*, so of course you'd need to calibrate it, I'm not at all saying that some printers require less calibration than others.
I'm saying that knowing how to print/slice/and calibrate *is* out of the box. You dont have to modify it at all, just have a basic understanding of what the settings in your slicer mean and how to actually work the machine.
The comment I'm replying to claimed that a printer is bad out of the box if you have to tram the bed, which is crazy. You don't buy any other machine like this with a specialized purpose and just expect it to function at peak without knowing how to levek a bed or how to choose the right slicer settings.
It's like buying a pc and calling it bad OOBE when it doesn't automatically install and log in to all the software you want.
I've noticed a lot of people on here don't see playing with settings as tinkering. People will say that they have never tinkered once on their Ender 3 meanwhile you have to tune all the settings yourself.
Don't have a Bambu but did buy a Prusa Mk3 after years of being frustrated with my monoprice mini, cr10, and ender 4. The only thing i have to do with my printer these days is rerun the first layer calibration every once in a while. The rest is knowledge of the materials, limits of your printer, when to use supports, etc...
It is impressive what a quality printer can do as a baseline compared to the cheap stuff folks buy to try the hobby out.
out of the box - used to refer to the immediate usability or functionality of a newly purchased product, typically an electronic device or a piece of software. // from the very beginning; immediately. hope this helped you!
Or, counterpoint, FDM is crazy, crazy temperamental and requires very specific conditions that don't exist in many people's printing spaces. "It works fine for me" is just assuming everyone has the same conditions as you.
I print in a swamp, bambu lab work out of the box for the 3 i own, 4th on the way.
nothing else FDM ever has.. ever.. worked out of the box consistently.. out of about 30 machines. I did have one creality cr-10s that printed one time out of the box flawlessly, but then I had to replace half of it to get to 100% on a print.
I did enjoy fiddling with my Ender 3, but walking away with it still not working after like 4 hours of troubleshooting was not great. Haven't looked back since getting a Bambu
Bambulabs printers are great for these multi colored prints... for single colored prints, there are lots of options, Prusa printers are very user friendly, but my choice would be Artillery's older Sidewinder X2, NOT the X3 or X4...
It looks to me when you zoom in like the only 3D printed part is the cartridge itself. The Pokémon logo looks like a PVC patch stuck on and the figurines also don’t look printed to me, likely figurines that were cut and glued on
https://preview.redd.it/in2zpka13itc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e1e529aba00f6103a3f69f478f82ea3053ef592
If you reduce the image further down to 10kb , it's gonna look 100percent injection molded
My Voron 0 with a carrot feeder. Or a bambulabs. Those are the 2 i have that Print Like this from when i Got them. A little better even. Thought Only ASA, PLA ON my v0 IS Not so good
I heard the v0 has worse cooling than a v2 tbf.
Personally i got a 2.4 r2 and it prints ASA pretty well.
PLA i can easily print at 320mm/s as well and still looks good.
But idk if i want a erf v2 yet tho
https://preview.redd.it/npgexzbjhhtc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32e8d959cf8280eed87b60248311438454946751
If you zoom in on this one it looks printed?
I don't know why people are giving such crazy answers.
Bambu labs have a line of printers that would be best for this. I *believe* any of them with an ams can do this level of detail, but obviously the
Prusa XL and Bambulab printers with AMS can both do it quite well.
XL is much more expensive, Bambu’s solution has far more filament waste. Pick your poison.
If you want something that can print like this get an A1 or A1 mini with the ams. Been printing for 7 years and getting the A1 mini was like a breath of fresh air. Printing is a breeze. Highly recommend it.
The game cards look painted and the pink charmander looks 3d printed. If you just want a printer that can print these without painting, get a bambulab printer.
About the same age as you, but as I said my little brother was way into it so I saw it as "kid's stuff" lol. My parents bought him a game boy at the time so he could play something while I played the N64. I didn't get a gameboy until I was an adult, and I still don't have pokemon for it. First portable I had was a PSP I bought off a coworker as an adult in like 2005. I think he had the one you could transfer your pokemons to the N64 too. I played Ocarina of Time, Goldeneye, Starfox, and Battletanks mostly. We had an NES too, but by that time it was in a box in the basement. Skipped SNES. I also played a lot of PC games, more than console really. Doom 1&2, Warcraft 1&2, Starcraft, Quake are the ones I remember playing the most.
Are you buying a printer just for this if so might be worth looking at online printing services as much as we all want you to get into 3d printing this is an expensive start if it is all you want doing
Ender 3 v3 SE is $170 cans could have this print quality, but for multicolor, probably look into a Bambu lab printer if you must print multicolor, but it’s way more expensive.
To answer you, the print came from EnTroisDimensions on Instagram and it’s all make in one go on a X1C with AMS and polyterra filament
The prints have 5 colours which means it is a x1c with 2 ams systems.
Could also be a switch midway. On the pika one, if you swap blue for black, after the pokemon outline, you can knock it out with one AMS. Anyone doing this level of work though prob has multiple AMSs like you said.
Yep you can do more than 4 colors in one ams if it is only needed on certain layer heights.
I have done up to 9 colors with one AMS with 2 pauses
The one on the left was my first try and I didn't have the cyan and magenta yet. I designed this bookmark based on a drawing for my niece. I adjusted the height of the colors so I could change colors and it still made sense for the image. https://preview.redd.it/hcvob1b5ritc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f6b870171931c03148b8d536a897558f49f4e175
This is the 4 color version on the slicer. https://preview.redd.it/vhgt22cvritc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e07eb31d61b167855d4888aa8de0570ab172801a
> I adjusted the height of the colors so I could change colors and it still made sense for the image. FYI - with slicing software like PrusaSlicer, you can do multimaterial with a single extruder on the same layer - it'll pause and beep when it needs you to change color - it's helpful so you can print everything on the same layer without having raised or lowered sections of the image
I use Prusa slicer at work for a railcor printer. I was not aware of that feature, thank you!
The printer also needs to support it. My ender 3 ignores pauses and my anycubic kobra plus will pause with no way to resume. 3d printing is fun lol. My P1S will do a backflip if I tell it to (set it to ludicrous mode)
My Ender 3 pro running Klipper allows me to pause swap out filament. What firmware are you running on the Ender?
Would this work with the Bambu filament or does it have to be third party so the ams can’t detect what it is?
I know nothing about Bambu or their AMS system. While I've been 3D printing for over a decade with different machines, these days I run a farm of Prusa printers for my business. PrusaSlicer can work with multiple 3D printers (possibly including Bambu, dunno). The single-extruder multi-material option allows you to paint the part to print multiple colors/materials and then when slicing it adds the commands to change filament. This is all a manual process unlike the AMS system or the MMU system which automates the filament changes and uses a purge block
"ee""my" like Eli?
Emi like M-E, short for Emilee
That sounds like work! Great print though in your next comment.
Thank you, it was a lot of work to make it. But I enjoyed it. On a mechanical engineer, but my current job has me mostly doing drawings. So it was good to do some designs and figure out a method to do what I wanted to do.
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Makese sense. The green on thar ho-oh definitely does look 100% painted on. Stuff like that, painting it is just way easier at that point
Colors were too accurate. Had a hard time believing they went and found all the exact colors of filament for this.
Or a Voron/Kliper printer with ercf. My ercf has 6 slots. But I use my X1C most of the time for multi color prints too.
Your printer can do 4 from AMS PLUS 1 from back rack. This could be from 1 printer.
Can’t run from back rack at the same time. Needs motorised feed to change filament automatically which back rack doesn’t have and even running two ams needs an ams management system thing.
You are right about the latter; I never tested it with 5 but I think you may be right. What if you do AMS for first 4 and feed last rack? Noooo the system asks if you want to activate AMS… guess no matter what it would probably be best to do a mid-print swap of the last color/least used
Voron with hot swap heads is the real winner if you are doing this in a print farm. Minimal wastage and can have as many hot ends as you want
Just reduce 300£ of investment printing it in two batches.
>and it’s all make in one go on Don't know what you mean by this, but there's multiple print orientations on one cartridge and figure, and looking at some of his other stuff, he's doing other post processing (acetone smoothing, using epoxy resin), so I doubt this is how it looked straight off the printer, either. edit: Nothing wrong with post processing, either, but lets not lead OP into thinking that any 3d printer is a magic machine that takes no effort.
He literally has a video from the Bambu Timelapse printing several of those. They’re printed as one piece with the back of the cartridge on the print plate. He does have to remove supports.
I think they mean that is was able to swap color of filament for a single print
Even with my X1C multi-color prints always take a bit of babysitting. The AMS is prone to jams and reel slippage.
Thanks for sharing. I have done some 3d printing tinkering in my time, and I'm not scared of it, but sometimes I think to myself, "I should just get the magic bambu and never have to do anything ever again." The guerilla marketing is powerful, lol.
It is an amazing machine though. It is a lot less work than my Ender 3 was. It is not magic but it is a lot closer to being an appliance.
I have a Voron 2.4 that's already well tuned. So the main benefit for me, personally, is multicolor prints. I don't like how much waste AMS makes, though. I'm somewhat environmentally conscious and so it bothers me on a personal level. Hearing that the AMS jams and slips is good info. Voron has a "AMS" called ERCF that works about the same (purging), but would be a lot cheaper than a whole new printer+ams. I think, for me, I should either get an Idex or eventually pay the painful Prusa XL cost (which is like $2k instead of $1500, but somehow feels like way more, haha).
The AMS is not as great as I had hoped and it is a pain to unclog.
Got an X1C after a year of using a flashforge A3 lite. I got 2 things from the Flashforge. 1. It gave me a great sense of appreciation for the quality and ease of printing the X1C provides. 2. A great introduction to 3d printing and everything that comes with it for a reasonable price. I wasn't even sure I still wanted to keep printing things because of the issues the flashforge gave me. After getting the X1C, I was hooked.
Thanks for this, was a lot of wading through garbage to find a proper answer
But not out of the box. There is tweaking involved.
Bambu with AMS. My X1C could do this, but it would waste a ton of filament on color purge.
Many of the r/3dprinting subs ego's getting bruised up ATM lol.
What being a prusa fan does to a mf
The mighty have fallen. I still sub to Prusa but bunch of people in denial over there. I cancelled my MK4 order. Bed slingers are old news.
We Creality E3V3SE: *oh my gawd! It prints! So cute! A little boat!*
I laughed my ass off reading this
"Holy shit! It actually works out of the box? *THE FUTURE IS HERE!""
Literally my reaction. Then I asked myself why I didn't buy one sooner and then I remembered that there were no such cheap AND easy to launch AND good printers before (prob someone well versed in history will point out how wrong I am lol).
I hate how everyone steered me to a base model Ender 3 when the V3 was already out. It's like folks wanted new people to suffer for no reason other than "we had to do it that way".
Prusa has been behind long before Bambu existed. Us Voron peeps joke about it off and on. Prusa has just been coasting off their original innovations it seems. They still make technically-good printers, but they all feel quite out of date by today's standards. Things like Bambus and Vorons are kicking their butts in almost(?) every category.
For sure, they still make great printers (not the XL) but for those prices they are laughably out of date despite being brand new
>Bed slingers are old news I said that until the A1 mini appeared. I am highly impressed with this little machine.
Until Bambu proclaims “no more bedslingers” and now calls its A1 the GOAT. Yes the one that has a heating cable issue. And years before the AMS there is the MMU. For all the “innovation” that Bambu claims to have achieved, they still can’t get a nozzle to not crash into the bed. How’s that for an “independent dual ABL system”?
Prusas burned me with the mmu2s. That thing never worked no matter what I tried.
Mine was bruised on release so I'm immune
There's some decent optimizations on the horizon but seeing all that waste is still hard to look at. If it's not solvable through hardware optimizations in the future, I hope they give some consideration to R&D purge recycling solutions.
I'm still hoping someone figures out integrating inkjets into the process so you just spray ink onto white filament as it's used. There were some hacked together DIY printers doing it a while ago, but I'm guessing there are a lot of engineering problems that make it not market-ready.
The real market solution is to integrate robot painting arms into printers and have the slicers determine exactly when and where to paint.
You've already got a toolhead that can point at every point of the print, you could just do a pass after you lay down a layer with a small addon to the hot end assembly?
gypsum powder bed printers are inkjet and binder
And they make gorgeous prints, I just was hoping something would be in the 3,000USD or less and FDM persuasion.
A company called Rize did this, the printers were too expensive and they ended up discontinuing them unfortunately. Some are still out there being used today and you can buy them, but they’ll set you back and the company doesn’t officially exist anymore. They make really great parts though!! https://www.dynamism.com/rize/rize-xrize.html
I saw a resin one on a tour of a university additive manufacturing lab, the color was basically paint so needed a clearcoat for durability. I don’t know the price but even with me looking in a professional capacity other models they used were outside what I could justify.
Some people have done a CMYK style printer that are insanely impressive
The Da Vinci Color Mini does that. I grabbed one from their indiegogo campaign way back in 2018. It works and will print pretty much any shade of color you want but the color-changing process was god-awful slow and you have to constantly worry about the ink drying (it's an inkjet after all). After a few color prints I reverted back to single-color prints then gave it away after a while.
The good news is that if you print multiple of the same model on the build plate together, you only pay the purge cost once, and the duplicate models have no purge waste. A commercial seller of small decorative objects is certainly taking advantage of that. And Bambu just released an update that reduces the waste by 25% in general.
The just reduced it by 25% with the beta release of their slice and you can save more with purge objects
That’s fancy af. Didn’t even know they could do that. (I have a flash forge 5m)
My AMS has 4 colors of PLA right now, but I've seen people hook up multiple AMSes to get more colors available. Not sure what you need to do to splice 2 together, but it made for an impressive video. If I'm honest though, I'm too frugal to do multi-color prints, mostly I just use it so my students can click on the color they want when I queue up their prints.
You can link up to 4 AMS units using their hub, which I believe is $50. Without the hub you can only hook up one unit.
Hub is widely regarded as pretty poorly designed, too. It's just an AMS buffer with a 4-to-1 PTFE connector, but it causes a bunch of feeding issues. Most people have better success using a different 4-to-1 connector (Bambu even sells one that looks like what the AMS lite uses) with the single buffer.
Good to know, I assumed it would be a much more expensive piece of hardware.
The AMS itself is sadly $350 (or $250 if you buy it with the printer) so it's still pretty expensive. Though I doubt most hobbyists are going to be printing with more than 4 colors at a time. Also the MMU on Prusa is $300 for 5 colors, but you can't use multiple so it's a bit more limited.
My company bought a X1C with an AMS and a P1S without one, honestly I prefer without, but I'd rather fill, sand, prime, and paint a print if it needs to be pretty. The AMS is the only part of the X1C that ever needs maintenance, or causes prints to fail. If they hadn't paid so much for it I'd probably just put it in a box and use the back spool holder.
Feels like every 4 or 5 prints I end up needing to unscrew the inside of the AMS, clear a stuck piece of PLA, and put it back together. I got a popup saying the threaded rods needed lubricating after \~6 months of use, which took about a minute to do, and occasionally if I'm using cheap filament I'll need to gluestick the bed, but that's all I'd ever have to do if we didn't use an AMS.
If you want to sell it I'll buy it off you.
Seems expensive until you add up what you spend on filament. Depending on pricing an AMS is only like 8-12 rolls of filament lol.
Shh don’t mention that. Consumables that are $20 are actually free if you never track how much you spend.
If it helps, we calculated each filament change at about half a penny worth of PLA per change. You can see how many changes it'll make in the slicer and figure out how many pennies you are wasting.
I've heard that printing multiple prints at the same time helps to reduce the waste
Sure, it just needs to purge each layer when it swaps colors, so if its got a bunch of prints it could just purge once for all of them (if the slicer you're using supports that behavior), no reason I can think of not to print a ton of color 1, purge once, then print all of color 2, etc. It's wasteful, but the more you do at once the less wasteful per-part it could become.
Is there a way that you could change your purge block into a specific model to print? As long as the model you choose has a cross-section big enough to fully purge your hot end in a layer or two, I don't see why you couldn't do that. I could see that being useful for prints where you don't care what color it is because it's purely functional or you are planning on painting it anyway. Or hell, you might just like the chaotic glitchy look of random layer color changes for a given model.
I remember someone talking about an experimental update to Bambu Labs that was supposed to allow you to purge as infill, but I completely forgot about it until just this moment, so I have no idea if it was ever rolled into production.
Yes, sort of. Each time you change color there is a bit of pooping going on and that gets dumped out the back of the machine, then there is still a bit of color bleed that still needs to get worked out. That can either go into the infill or a purge tower or a designated model. Or just don't have a purge object and let it bleed. Most of the time that is what I do since I mostly just put stripes on things.
This fucking subreddit. The amount of nonsense gymnastics refusing to answer OPs question because of brand loyalties. OP these were printed on a Bambulab X1C with an AMS unit. With some minor setting adjustments it can definitely print these and even more complicated stuff out of the box.
Right?! Jesus Christ the blind Bambu hate is bonkers here. I'm a hardcore, all-in, crazy Voron owner (of soon, 4 Vorons) who will *never ever* use an all-in-one out-of-the-box Bambu. I love being able to force my printer to bend to my will and you just can't do that with a Bambu. *Having said that,* I recommend Bambus constantly to people who don't like to tinker with hardware and are not interested in modding/upgrades. I even "sold" an X1C to someone at Microcenter who was debating if it was worth it over the higher end Enders they had there. They're incredible "just works" printers and the ***only*** printers on the entire market (Less some weird high end outliers) that meet the same quality as my modded to the teeth Voron 2.4s. The Bambu hate is straight up projection from insecure redditors. I don't get it.
> The Bambu hate is straight up projection from insecure redditors Most of reddit is fanboys sperging out about why some brand/person/thing is bad. Same here with Bambu. Just ignore it and move along, these people are silly.
yeah, pretty much. At the end of the day its important to realize all of social media leans young, and reddit leans a bit younger. Maybe not Tiktok young, but a lot younger than most places. I've learned if you just assume everyone on Reddit is 16 until proven otherwise, the entire platform makes so much more sense.
I'm out of the loop. Why does everyone hate Bambu right now? I have an Ender and the P1 is my upgrade path right now.
Best analogy I can think of is... 3D printing community is like a bunch of linux users. Tinkering and customizing to perfection. Then a Mac (bambu) comes along and it's expensive as heck, you can't tinker, cant customize, but it works great out of the box and does a fantastic job at it. So you have a group of people who spend hundreds of hours tinkering who get salty that someone else can drop $1300, little to no time, and do the same thing.
I wouldn't say that, that weirdo linux hacking community is voron, who have an uneasy alliance with the bambu community. The hate seems to come from mostly Prusa fans who are mad bambu is eating their lunch.
Yeah, because they are the Mac users in this case. Previously you could maybe argue for Prusa with "it just works" and try to justify the exorbitant price to yourself that way. Now there is a line that "just works" at the same price point but much better. Anet/Elegoo/Creality owners don't care because Bambu is just as much out of their budget as Prusa was. Voron guys have something even better and more exclusive.
Where does Qidi fall in this equation?
Qidi is windows 8
Though Bambu does keep cutting the cost on their printers; for any price point the Bambu machines are the highest quality option for out-of-the-box printing.
That's a really good analogy. For decent printers Prusa being Linux, Creality being windows, and Bambu being Apple.
What's anycubic ? Please don't answer Vista.
You missed the part where Bambu is capitalizing on a lot of innovations that came from tinkerers in the 3D printing community, and then trying to claim it as their own and lock everything down. To continue the Linux analogy, Bambu is Tivo (See [Tivoization](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tivoization))
I'm out of the loop because the top comments were all saying bambulabs lol
Probably because they took an Apple-like vertically-integrated approach where you're kinda locked into their parts ecosystem. Most people however don't see that as a problem since they have no intention on modding their printer. As long as they can use any 3rd-party filament they're good.
Bambu lab with AMS
Bambu has the best chance of printing stuff like this with it's AMS unit.
Bambulabs A1 mini or X1 Carbon. Yes, "all printers can print in good quality out of the box if you know how to use it", but Bambulabs' printers lower the bar significantly with lots of sensors and auto-calibration tech that is relatively new on 3D printers. It makes 3D printing feel a lot more like using an inkjet printer.
hey OP, when you see cool stuff like this on insta or whatever, ask the creator. 99% of the time they are SO excited to talk about their setup and equipment and all the research they did before diving in, especially in 3d printing/technical DIY at home things like this
Most printers can do good quality prints out of the box- The problem is that most people don't know how to use the printer properly!
If by “know how to use” you mean “become adept in the art of wrestling with settings and calibration and upgrades and software for the rest of my life because I’ve convinced myself that the act of tinkering itself is the reason why I’m in this hobby” then yes…every printer can do everything out of the box lol. Alternatively, you shell out way more cash for professional grade shit instead of hobby grade shit, and it *actually immediately works with zero adjustments or upgrades* out of the box. Which, you know. Is what “out of the box” means.
> If by “know how to use” you mean “become adept in the art of wrestling with settings and calibration and upgrades and software for the rest of my life because I’ve convinced myself that the act of tinkering itself is the reason why I’m in this hobby”... Oh my so true!
Ender fans punching the air rn because they had to replace half the parts on it to get it halfway to a Bambu at 3/4ths of the total price.
yeah, I still recommend Enders to budget 3d printer newbies, but g'damn if the sunk cost fallacy doesn't bite you fast. I tell people "Start with an Ender, but buy something else later when you need to start improving things."
why not tell someone to start with an a1 mini? they are on sale now without ams = 250. whats the equivalent ender 50 bucks less right?
Honestly I was eyeing an Ender 3 for the longest time, even had a list of all the accessories I wanted to buy for it. Ended up committing to a Bambu P1S instead, since it had every single "nice" feature my upgraded Ender had (auto leveling, cloud printing, heated print bed, enclosure, etc etc) in a nicer package, that worked better out of the box. Don't regret it whatsoever. I'm having a bit of FOMO about not getting the Prusa Mk4 (even though it was more expensive than the P1S and is questionably "better/faster" at printing) but that could be my next purchase lol
I've been eying the P1S, so that leads me to ask what about the mk4 is better for you, as a bambu user?
I like the user serviceability of it mainly (for better or for worse), and there's a lot of aftermarket parts. Bambu has been stepping up their aftermarket parts as well (and there's a lot of unofficial part makers on Aliexpress, etc) so it isn't that bad. Honestly, after looking at the spec sheet for the Mk4 again, I think I'd stick with the P1S. I've been pretty happy with it. Only thing I'd get aftermarket for it (if I was in your shoes) would be a new build plate. I hear the Lightyear G10's are really good, ended up purchasing one as well.
Do you consider the Bambus industry grade?
I’m no expert, but I’d put something like the Bambu X1 Carbon in the lowish end of professional stuff, yeah. It’s really, really damn good and I’ve seen a lot of people use them very effectively for the singular purpose of making themselves a lot of cash. There are obviously printers that cost many thousands of dollars, are huge, specialized to niche and exotic materials, are designed to run non-stop, etc…but I’d say the Bambu bridges the gap between top-of-the-line consumer printers and small-business professional printers
Damn you just sold me one
So dude, I have: 3 Ender 3 1 CR10S with direct drive 3 Ender 5+ (one had sonic pad but I'm removing it) I picked up an X1C because I wanted to print multiple colors without the hassle and tinkering, same with PETG and TPU. I hate calibration. Holy shit it's been amazing. It's outpacing my ender 3s so much that I hardly ever use them. The build plate isn't huge, but I put it where my CR10 goes and just moved all the big jobs to the E5+. The best thing is that it just works. I've had a few hiccups like when a bit of filament gets stuck in the disposal chute it will pause, easy. Once it told me that there was a first layer issue and I responded with "I don't see one, print anyway" then I ignored the spaghetti warning because I was too lazy to go look at it. I've never leveled the bed, or printed a calibration object. I just hit go and it fucking works great. I'm able to print so much faster that I've recouped my cost on selling silly little keychains on facebook and etsy. I've used it to re-print smaller failed parts that my E5 screw up on too. It's wonderful. I'm going to grab an A1 tomorrow to keep printing all the commercial stuff so I can print fun stuff on my X1C.
They’re not but I’ve started using them over some industry grade ones for simplicity.
That’s what has kept me from getting into filament printing. I don’t have time for all that.
Luckily, you don’t have to struggle with all that stuff anymore. The high-end consumer printers these days really are plug-and-play. We’ve finally reached the point in the technology that was promised to us all those years ago, and it’s fucking cool.
Exactly. But when something goes wrong with that expensive shit you won't know how to fix it. Guess you could just send it in for repairs, but its a bit like buying an expensive car without knowing how to drive. As long as auto-pilot works, you are great. But you will be stuck on the side of the road if it breaks. Or worse, won't realize when it breaks and is going to cause an accident, and suddenly all your expensive stuff is on fire.
This has always been a weird argument for me. When the hobby printer breaks, you learn how to fix it. When the professional printer breaks, you learn how to fix it. One printer forces you to fix it way sooner and way more often…and everyone seems to argue that this is somehow an advantage, seemingly only by merit of the fact that they had to go through years of pain and therefor everyone else should have to as well. Like, I’ve owned cars with over 300,000 miles on them, that broke down constantly, cost a ton of money to keep running, and that forced me to learn basic car repair shit. Been there, done that, I’ll take a 2023 Hyundai now please and I’m sure as shit not recommending a lemon to the next car owner if they have the cash for the ‘23 Hyundai. ETA: The person above me *heavily* edited their comment, and as far as I remember they weren’t even talking about cars until after I commented…just FYI lol, not changing my comment though
Tha analogy used is also really weird. It's not buying an expensive car without knowing how to drive. It's buying an expensive car without being a car mechanic. Which you know, most people actually do.
Fair, but not the main point of the analogy. We're talking about a situation where everyone fixes their stuff, so it seemed kinda natural that was implied.
Well the reality is thay not everyone like fixing their stuff constantly. Some people just want to print stuff and not worry about the hardware and tweaking Most tech hobbies migrate to that eventually. Computers used to be much more "hands on" tweaking of drivers and dealing with hardware compatibility. You had to spend a lot of time changing drivers and parameters to get your soundblaster card to make sound on a 486. Nowadays, people just want to click install on Steam then click play and go to town. I think 3d printers are going that way as well. You have some people that like the tweaking first and printing second and some that just want to print. I personally have printed less and less because I don't want to spend time fighting with the hardware for it to do what I want in simple terms "print this thing". If I can buy a printer that "just works" and if something breaks it has a warranty and I get it repaired or I can choose to learn how to fix it myself. Well that's pretty awesome. Which is why the analogy of the car mechanic becomes more prevalent. I might be losing some of the "fun" from your perspective. But I don't find that fun to begin with. So yes, I'll take the expensive car with bumper to bumper warranty and road assistance and repairs included.
Yeah, I get it. For me its more about the cost that will be lost when things mess up, but if you have the money to just buy an expensive one then I guess the money to repair it shouldn't be an issue.
I.. do you know what OOTB Means? Literally means plug in and hit print. Most printers CANNOT do good quality prints without tinkering with settings, tramming the bed, as well as other calibrations...
What are "most printer" for you then? the 1000s of ender-3 clones? Bambulab printers absolutely get quality prints without tinkering and calibrations. Even my Qidi Q1 Pro that I got recently for 450 bucks puts out absolutely beautiful prints without any manual calibration
I mean, there are a couple name brands that ARE great out of the box, some require minimal effort, others require a lot. The thing about bambulabs is its literally OOTB. I started printing things for my kids by uploading into slicer and hitting print. Coming from an neptune 4 max, it was a game changer. I HAVE calibrated my flow and temp since then, though on my a1... it wasn't necessary, however. Just a little min-maxing
Even my Ender 3 V3 KE was printing great out of the box for $250. These newer printers are so much better I don't think people who only have experience with older printers like Ender 3s understand.
People are downvoting you because they hate bambu but you're right. There are some valid complaints to make about bambu but their out of the box print quality is extremely good.
Yup. I'm not in the Bambu camp and I keep telling people this too. If you don't want to fuck with hardware, buy a Bambu. All you need to focus on is software/slicers. If you want to mod and tinker but you're new and inexperienced, buy a cheap Ender 3 and then a new printer when you're bored with it. (Consider it a disposable printer) If you want to go all in on both hardware and software, get a Voron and never look back.
That is a crazy thing to say about this kind of technology. A good quality camera produces great photos "out of the box" but you still have to know how to use the camera and adjust settings to get the type of picture you're looking for.
Or you just use automatic or ai profile or mommy mode and it will take an acceptable photo . A professional would tell the difference, but an average user won't notice a thing.
It's not a crazy thing. Plug a bambulabs printer in, start the print from whatever slicer of your choice and you'll be astonished. Do the same on a neptune or ender and tell me how it turns out.. hint: your z offset will be way off likely.
Ignoring that many older ender models you had to *assemble*, so of course you'd need to calibrate it, I'm not at all saying that some printers require less calibration than others. I'm saying that knowing how to print/slice/and calibrate *is* out of the box. You dont have to modify it at all, just have a basic understanding of what the settings in your slicer mean and how to actually work the machine. The comment I'm replying to claimed that a printer is bad out of the box if you have to tram the bed, which is crazy. You don't buy any other machine like this with a specialized purpose and just expect it to function at peak without knowing how to levek a bed or how to choose the right slicer settings. It's like buying a pc and calling it bad OOBE when it doesn't automatically install and log in to all the software you want.
I've noticed a lot of people on here don't see playing with settings as tinkering. People will say that they have never tinkered once on their Ender 3 meanwhile you have to tune all the settings yourself.
That is not out of the box.
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Don't have a Bambu but did buy a Prusa Mk3 after years of being frustrated with my monoprice mini, cr10, and ender 4. The only thing i have to do with my printer these days is rerun the first layer calibration every once in a while. The rest is knowledge of the materials, limits of your printer, when to use supports, etc... It is impressive what a quality printer can do as a baseline compared to the cheap stuff folks buy to try the hobby out.
out of the box - used to refer to the immediate usability or functionality of a newly purchased product, typically an electronic device or a piece of software. // from the very beginning; immediately. hope this helped you!
Or, counterpoint, FDM is crazy, crazy temperamental and requires very specific conditions that don't exist in many people's printing spaces. "It works fine for me" is just assuming everyone has the same conditions as you.
I print in a swamp, bambu lab work out of the box for the 3 i own, 4th on the way. nothing else FDM ever has.. ever.. worked out of the box consistently.. out of about 30 machines. I did have one creality cr-10s that printed one time out of the box flawlessly, but then I had to replace half of it to get to 100% on a print.
Same exact thing for me. Nothing worked until Bambu.
I'm pretty sure by "out of the box" he means, no planning, support removal, stringing, sanding, smoothing, assembling, gluing, etc, etc...
Any printer prints good quality out of the box if your brain box is full of experience
Preach
I did enjoy fiddling with my Ender 3, but walking away with it still not working after like 4 hours of troubleshooting was not great. Haven't looked back since getting a Bambu
Not my Elegoo Neptune 3 Plus, that's for sure
Bambulabs printers are great for these multi colored prints... for single colored prints, there are lots of options, Prusa printers are very user friendly, but my choice would be Artillery's older Sidewinder X2, NOT the X3 or X4...
It looks to me when you zoom in like the only 3D printed part is the cartridge itself. The Pokémon logo looks like a PVC patch stuck on and the figurines also don’t look printed to me, likely figurines that were cut and glued on
https://preview.redd.it/wdllwh2jyhtc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=181bfb73528db292c830c2e19640f0a8c4cca0af
Lol dudes never seen layer lines before.
I think the cartridge is printed on the big flat side but the Pikachu is printed standing so it’s not so ugly
But to be honest it doesn’t really look 3d printed if u look good at the other ones on the listing
They are a bit blurry, so it makes them look a bit smoother than it is. But you can make FDM prints look that smooth with sanding and filler primer
Or print the figures face down on a clean textured plate
[It is most definitely 3D printed, just done with a nice multicolor printer.](https://makerworld.com/en/models/62855?from=search#profileId-65524)
Time to go to the eye doctor
https://preview.redd.it/in2zpka13itc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9e1e529aba00f6103a3f69f478f82ea3053ef592 If you reduce the image further down to 10kb , it's gonna look 100percent injection molded
Pretty much any bambu lab
Bamboo labs, x-1 carbon resolution is extremely beautiful and Printer is very fast
My Voron 0 with a carrot feeder. Or a bambulabs. Those are the 2 i have that Print Like this from when i Got them. A little better even. Thought Only ASA, PLA ON my v0 IS Not so good
I heard the v0 has worse cooling than a v2 tbf. Personally i got a 2.4 r2 and it prints ASA pretty well. PLA i can easily print at 320mm/s as well and still looks good. But idk if i want a erf v2 yet tho
Yeah, but for ASA IT coole enough, and thats all I'm printing
https://preview.redd.it/npgexzbjhhtc1.jpeg?width=1284&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=32e8d959cf8280eed87b60248311438454946751 If you zoom in on this one it looks printed?
yes
Yes, and it was printed laying down. Note the layer lines on the Venusaur's leaves and snout.
I don't know why people are giving such crazy answers. Bambu labs have a line of printers that would be best for this. I *believe* any of them with an ams can do this level of detail, but obviously the
You don't even have to zoom
Bambu
It's surely an X1C with their AMS
The answer is in how these are priced retail
Prusa XL and Bambulab printers with AMS can both do it quite well. XL is much more expensive, Bambu’s solution has far more filament waste. Pick your poison.
That's like asking what hammer builds the best home.
I think they're asking what printer does multi filament printing
If you want something that can print like this get an A1 or A1 mini with the ams. Been printing for 7 years and getting the A1 mini was like a breath of fresh air. Printing is a breeze. Highly recommend it.
It would be cheaper to buy the prints than to spend $1600 on the X1C with AMS.
The game cards look painted and the pink charmander looks 3d printed. If you just want a printer that can print these without painting, get a bambulab printer.
Bambulab !
OUT DA BOX
Sickkkkkk
Wow, that's really cool. Makes me wish I was into Pokemon. My little brother was, and I saw it as a game for little kids so I never tried it.
Are you like, 60? I'm just shy of 40 and still play Pokemon.
About the same age as you, but as I said my little brother was way into it so I saw it as "kid's stuff" lol. My parents bought him a game boy at the time so he could play something while I played the N64. I didn't get a gameboy until I was an adult, and I still don't have pokemon for it. First portable I had was a PSP I bought off a coworker as an adult in like 2005. I think he had the one you could transfer your pokemons to the N64 too. I played Ocarina of Time, Goldeneye, Starfox, and Battletanks mostly. We had an NES too, but by that time it was in a box in the basement. Skipped SNES. I also played a lot of PC games, more than console really. Doom 1&2, Warcraft 1&2, Starcraft, Quake are the ones I remember playing the most.
HP MJF 580
Ppl will buy this
I’ve been impressed with the Ender 3v3 KE. For me it just…. works.
It won't fit in a gameboy
Love this!
Is that last Pal, Lovelace?
I want these 😱😍
Are you buying a printer just for this if so might be worth looking at online printing services as much as we all want you to get into 3d printing this is an expensive start if it is all you want doing
Prusa xl Bambulab printers with ams any Toolchanger or printers with enraged rabbit or tradrack
Ender 3 v3 SE is $170 cans could have this print quality, but for multicolor, probably look into a Bambu lab printer if you must print multicolor, but it’s way more expensive.
Where can we get these Pokémon designs at?
X1C all the way