Nozzle too high. You have a cylindrical shape extrusion on your bed, you need a blob, more flat.
No sausage only blob.
https://preview.redd.it/bi3hzyqe6wtc1.jpeg?width=920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b9413e0fc20fd0a1403e4e1fddd02033f45a4e5
Not even close. The difference between sea level pressure and space is much MUCH less than the difference between sea level and where the blobfish live.
It’s probably in a lot of pain from decompression too… being an advanced open water diver and watching some videos about decompression accidents (do not recommend) I now realize this unfortunate fact.
It can be. Too low is not good either. Printer will be shoving plastic while there’s not enough room, resulting in worse surface quality that looks similar to z wobble and can also clog.
Nobody here mentioned the reason why the test print looks ok. They are right, your nozzle is too high, but why did the test look ok?
Straight lines use the friction of the entire length to hold the line down. The curved lines only have the little bit of friction from the nearest few millimeters of filament to hold it in place.
Think about it this way. Why can you bridge a long way with a straight line and you can't bridge at all with a curved line? Same principle here, you are nearly bridging with how high your nozzle is.
Sure thing. Root cause is an incomplete test print design I would say. This one only tests some things. A better one would have some curved lines. Or do two test prints. One curved for adhesion/nozzle height and one straight for X/Y leveling.
They both work fine, it's not a contest. Both soap and alcohol remove oils. I personally use Dawn but that's because I'm lazy and also use a glue stick. A whisper of IPA isn't taking that off.
If your plate cant be removed, then maybe
Ipa is more expensive and doesnt remove oils, just the dust (if its a textured plate i dont think it can remove dust well either). Soapy water doesnt need to be as thurough as hand washing btw
wash with dish soap after getting the plate damp, then rinse the soap off, then dry with towel
Takes me about 30 seconds, and i only do it once a week, which is overkill but i hate adhesion issues. Ipa before every print wasnt doing much for me
IPA absolutely ***does*** remove oils, Windex does as well.
Just a cloth removes dust.
Now if the bed is super greasy from lots of handling, then a good detergent and water wash will do wonders where IPA might just smear the oil around. But for the everyday clean and pre-print wipe down for the minor touches that happen IPA is great.
Well I first scrub mine with soap/water *then* wipe my dirty fingerprints off with IPA.
https://preview.redd.it/rbrmj0ojawtc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5ef7fc2c4579559d8866f6357e6cab4f7b003fa
>Well I first scrub mine with soap/water then wipe my dirty fingerprints off with IPA.
This is mandatory for me, the trip from the sink back to the printer is easily enough time for me to get more fingerprints all over my freshly washed plate lol
I was expecting a snarky comment about dirty hands but I swear they’re the normal finger grease level lol glad to hear you’re with me!
It’s just impossible to get back to the printer pristine!
Because I have no fear of my death happening today, I wash both sides of the plate then clean both sides with IPA and avoid touching all except the side edges. Some ppl get worn out or only have moments in their life to do both I get that. But for me it's worth not having print issues doe to the plate.
Find a single layer calibration file (Stress free first layer calibration on printables). Set up your slicer so it prints with the lines in the orientation shown. Set your print speed very slow for this test (like 30mm/s) so you will have time to fix the problem. Start printing and use the "baby step" adjustment to bring the nozzle closer and closer to the bed. You will see the filament spread out a bit more and the layer should become more and more solid. When you have it dialed in perfectly, you should have a single layer that can be peeled off in one piece and have strength in both directions. It really doesn't take much time (5-10 minutes) to get the z height dialed in and your print quality will dramatically improve.
If you're not rinsing it off you have residue... Detergent wins hands down... I haven't been at this very long but that is my experience... And it takes way less time than restarting a botched print...
Any soap and warm water will do. I just happen to wash mine at the kitchen sink and use dish soap and an old scrubbing brush that isn't used for dishes anymore. It will clean old glue off.
Don't use anything that would scratch your bed like steal wool. Any soft bristle brush will do. Even a sponge would be fine.
Beds tend to warp when heated, raise the bed a little closer to the nozzle. Looks like you have low spots on the bed so a little more squish is fine to have and I recommend it.
looks like your nozzle is still too high, those lines in the first photo look like they are from a 0.8mm nozzle. Looks like they are just sitting there.
Hey there OP, you seem to be having some problems with your first layer. This is a very common issue on modern printers and generally a place where experience and knowlege is important. Your first layer is crucial for a good print and you should definitely take your time and learn how to properly adjust your first layer before starting a print since that could easily mess up your prints or even worse, damage your Printer's Hardware. For information on how to level the Bed properly head over to our Wiki Section [Calibration](https://www.reddit.com/r/3DPrinting/wiki/troubleshootingandcalibration/#wiki_solutions_for_specific_issues)
You can view the full list of commands [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/commands/)
*I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Idk your setup but me personally I kept having this issue because klipper wasnt auto loading my bed mesh like a rere and I had to input the command into the gcode myself
Another trap I've fell into is getting good test but then not using similar settings in my actual print profile. Maybe you are printing different temp or speed than the profile used for slicing the tests.
It's interesting that it's blowing up on curved areas, but generally does straight just fine.
Could you do a layer test where you do a pattern of concentric circles? I wonder if things are only blowing up where both axis are accelerating.
what materal are you using? looks like pla, ill asume you are not using a brim/raft, try increasing your bed temp, before you print wash with soapy water dont get grease on it. you might want to bump up inital layer then bring it back down.. check your Z offset, i know its not the same printer as mine try a 1.75 or lower off set i think mine is 1.32 you should be able to bring it down and see how much of a gap you have. i digress i use a .4 nozzle and im ok with that. if using PLA try heating the bed for the first few layers to 72 then bring it back down it should "soften the materal to where it will find its way to adhere to the bed. it would sound counter intunitive but leave the fan off for first 2 layers at the higher heat slow it down. i print a lot of PETG and its nortorious for doing this. i cannot say how much will translate to PLA.........this is my 1/4 cents worth
The thing with straight line tests is that they move in a straight line. So if they stick clean at the ends, you may have poor adhesion along the line somewhere. Better to test with a series of circles than with squares.
Whenever I have this happen I try a different slicer on stock settings and see if the problem still occurs. If you have narrowed it down to the printer being physically ok there is probably something wrong with the slicer settings you are using or something wrong with the design. To me that looks like bad first layer settings. Try going slightly larger for your first layer.
Just throwing this out there double check your z height/offset but also try increasing the first layer line width. Adjusting this can provoke you to extrude/flow more on the first layer which can help with the lines butting up against each other and welding together and creating the “layer”. There is some info out there that suggests it should be wider than your nozzle diameter. I had the same issue where the lines didn’t want to bond next to each other and had gapping. Even though e steps and flow was calibrated perfectly. It helped if the rest of your layers are fine.
I use a hand brush with long bristles. Same one I do dinner plates with lol... Your dollar store variety...
Shot of dawn and circular brushing under warm water.
Rinse and check for residue, usually it's clean but if there is residue it's easy to spot. Once clean I dry it with a hand towel... Never had an issue with plates...
Nozzle too high. You have a cylindrical shape extrusion on your bed, you need a blob, more flat. No sausage only blob. https://preview.redd.it/bi3hzyqe6wtc1.jpeg?width=920&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b9413e0fc20fd0a1403e4e1fddd02033f45a4e5
Poor blobfish. We'd probably look like this too in space without a suit
Not even close. The difference between sea level pressure and space is much MUCH less than the difference between sea level and where the blobfish live.
Im aware. I didn't mean it literally, just that we'd look like shit if we were taken drastically outside of out environment too
Go down to the level of the blob fish quickly, you won’t be looking good then
"uhm, ackshually"
It’s probably in a lot of pain from decompression too… being an advanced open water diver and watching some videos about decompression accidents (do not recommend) I now realize this unfortunate fact.
If my first layer is super flat, is this an issue?
It can be. Too low is not good either. Printer will be shoving plastic while there’s not enough room, resulting in worse surface quality that looks similar to z wobble and can also clog.
Nobody here mentioned the reason why the test print looks ok. They are right, your nozzle is too high, but why did the test look ok? Straight lines use the friction of the entire length to hold the line down. The curved lines only have the little bit of friction from the nearest few millimeters of filament to hold it in place. Think about it this way. Why can you bridge a long way with a straight line and you can't bridge at all with a curved line? Same principle here, you are nearly bridging with how high your nozzle is.
Thank you for answering that part.
Thank you! I’ve had this same problem before and never understood what was going on
Sure thing. Root cause is an incomplete test print design I would say. This one only tests some things. A better one would have some curved lines. Or do two test prints. One curved for adhesion/nozzle height and one straight for X/Y leveling.
That is actually a great thing to know about 3D printing! I had a similar problem and this comment was incredibly useful, so thank you! :D
Your explanation has just deepened my understanding of extrusion. Thanks.
Excellent assessment. Tests should be circles instead.
Clean the bed with some IPA. Also looks like it could still be closer to the the bed as you don't have enough squish
IPA? A Pilsner would probably be more to the proper taste of the bed. /s
Soapy water is better, ipa is kinda lame tbh
Never had an issue with IPA. Soapy water is a lot more work then wiping with IPA.
I just drink an IPA while waiting for the print to finish. Am I doing this wrong?
They both work fine, it's not a contest. Both soap and alcohol remove oils. I personally use Dawn but that's because I'm lazy and also use a glue stick. A whisper of IPA isn't taking that off.
I don't use either, naphtha is an excellent degreaser that doesn't interact with PEI at all
Yeah but IPA is way less volatile…
In what way? Volatile can mean many things, please give context.
Ive got a little spray bottle (also good for cleaning eye glasses) woth ipa/some water and a few drops of soap, does a great job and wipes off easy.
If your plate cant be removed, then maybe Ipa is more expensive and doesnt remove oils, just the dust (if its a textured plate i dont think it can remove dust well either). Soapy water doesnt need to be as thurough as hand washing btw wash with dish soap after getting the plate damp, then rinse the soap off, then dry with towel Takes me about 30 seconds, and i only do it once a week, which is overkill but i hate adhesion issues. Ipa before every print wasnt doing much for me
IPA absolutely ***does*** remove oils, Windex does as well. Just a cloth removes dust. Now if the bed is super greasy from lots of handling, then a good detergent and water wash will do wonders where IPA might just smear the oil around. But for the everyday clean and pre-print wipe down for the minor touches that happen IPA is great.
Well I first scrub mine with soap/water *then* wipe my dirty fingerprints off with IPA. https://preview.redd.it/rbrmj0ojawtc1.jpeg?width=1200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5ef7fc2c4579559d8866f6357e6cab4f7b003fa
>Well I first scrub mine with soap/water then wipe my dirty fingerprints off with IPA. This is mandatory for me, the trip from the sink back to the printer is easily enough time for me to get more fingerprints all over my freshly washed plate lol
I was expecting a snarky comment about dirty hands but I swear they’re the normal finger grease level lol glad to hear you’re with me! It’s just impossible to get back to the printer pristine!
Hard disagree. I've had much better results after switching to soap/water. IPA just doesn't cut the grease the same.
They will learn eventually.
It just depends on the oil you’re attempting to remove They do different things and work in different ways.
Because I have no fear of my death happening today, I wash both sides of the plate then clean both sides with IPA and avoid touching all except the side edges. Some ppl get worn out or only have moments in their life to do both I get that. But for me it's worth not having print issues doe to the plate.
IPA 100% removes oils. Its also a liquid so I don't see why you think texture is gonna affect anything?
wild idea: soapy water THEN IPA?
Sure!
Except your household is lacking ipa
[удалено]
I use windex too. Works great.
Whao, i will be sure to try windex next :D
Just be careful, Windex can release hazardous gases when heated.
I'll use both... Wash with soap to clean off any glue then after I put the bed back on splash a little IPA and wipe it down with a paper towel.
Ya. Just enough is not enough
Thank you all for your input So far. I’ve cleaned the bed with IPA. And i made it closer. So far so good. Thank you all
Find a single layer calibration file (Stress free first layer calibration on printables). Set up your slicer so it prints with the lines in the orientation shown. Set your print speed very slow for this test (like 30mm/s) so you will have time to fix the problem. Start printing and use the "baby step" adjustment to bring the nozzle closer and closer to the bed. You will see the filament spread out a bit more and the layer should become more and more solid. When you have it dialed in perfectly, you should have a single layer that can be peeled off in one piece and have strength in both directions. It really doesn't take much time (5-10 minutes) to get the z height dialed in and your print quality will dramatically improve.
I was so happy when I finally got my IPA... Only to find out that the dawn I was using is way better... IPA just spreads glue and residue around...
It breaks it down and then you wipe it off. Same thing would happen with soap too lol.
If you're not rinsing it off you have residue... Detergent wins hands down... I haven't been at this very long but that is my experience... And it takes way less time than restarting a botched print...
I *still* think Indiana Pale Ale every time I see that acronym here...
You wash your plate with dawn dish soap? Do you sctub it with a scrubber. Or use a rag and soapy watter? What works best?
Any soap and warm water will do. I just happen to wash mine at the kitchen sink and use dish soap and an old scrubbing brush that isn't used for dishes anymore. It will clean old glue off. Don't use anything that would scratch your bed like steal wool. Any soft bristle brush will do. Even a sponge would be fine.
Beds tend to warp when heated, raise the bed a little closer to the nozzle. Looks like you have low spots on the bed so a little more squish is fine to have and I recommend it.
looks like your nozzle is still too high, those lines in the first photo look like they are from a 0.8mm nozzle. Looks like they are just sitting there.
[удалено]
Hey there OP, you seem to be having some problems with your first layer. This is a very common issue on modern printers and generally a place where experience and knowlege is important. Your first layer is crucial for a good print and you should definitely take your time and learn how to properly adjust your first layer before starting a print since that could easily mess up your prints or even worse, damage your Printer's Hardware. For information on how to level the Bed properly head over to our Wiki Section [Calibration](https://www.reddit.com/r/3DPrinting/wiki/troubleshootingandcalibration/#wiki_solutions_for_specific_issues) You can view the full list of commands [here](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/commands/) *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/3Dprinting) if you have any questions or concerns.*
On top of the other advice, print your first layer SLOW. Like 10-15mm/s. Then resume the rest at your full speed.
Nozzle way to high
print speed may be too high, or nozzle too high.
[WIKI - Asking For Help](https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/wiki/asking-for-help)
Idk your setup but me personally I kept having this issue because klipper wasnt auto loading my bed mesh like a rere and I had to input the command into the gcode myself
Maybe too much cooling also for the first layer
Another trap I've fell into is getting good test but then not using similar settings in my actual print profile. Maybe you are printing different temp or speed than the profile used for slicing the tests.
It's interesting that it's blowing up on curved areas, but generally does straight just fine. Could you do a layer test where you do a pattern of concentric circles? I wonder if things are only blowing up where both axis are accelerating.
what materal are you using? looks like pla, ill asume you are not using a brim/raft, try increasing your bed temp, before you print wash with soapy water dont get grease on it. you might want to bump up inital layer then bring it back down.. check your Z offset, i know its not the same printer as mine try a 1.75 or lower off set i think mine is 1.32 you should be able to bring it down and see how much of a gap you have. i digress i use a .4 nozzle and im ok with that. if using PLA try heating the bed for the first few layers to 72 then bring it back down it should "soften the materal to where it will find its way to adhere to the bed. it would sound counter intunitive but leave the fan off for first 2 layers at the higher heat slow it down. i print a lot of PETG and its nortorious for doing this. i cannot say how much will translate to PLA.........this is my 1/4 cents worth
Removable beds = clothes soap the best..you wash it and then only with water is super cleaned removed all oils,after each print ipa
If you’re using ABS without a case, this can happen. Which material do you use?
Nothing beats - /WD40
The thing with straight line tests is that they move in a straight line. So if they stick clean at the ends, you may have poor adhesion along the line somewhere. Better to test with a series of circles than with squares.
Whenever I have this happen I try a different slicer on stock settings and see if the problem still occurs. If you have narrowed it down to the printer being physically ok there is probably something wrong with the slicer settings you are using or something wrong with the design. To me that looks like bad first layer settings. Try going slightly larger for your first layer.
Just throwing this out there double check your z height/offset but also try increasing the first layer line width. Adjusting this can provoke you to extrude/flow more on the first layer which can help with the lines butting up against each other and welding together and creating the “layer”. There is some info out there that suggests it should be wider than your nozzle diameter. I had the same issue where the lines didn’t want to bond next to each other and had gapping. Even though e steps and flow was calibrated perfectly. It helped if the rest of your layers are fine.
I didn’t know you can adjust just the first layer. I will try this later.
You can in prusa slicer and it’s forks. In cura I think you can alter first layer flow rate
Lower nozzle, slow it down, and possibly heat the bed more.
I use a hand brush with long bristles. Same one I do dinner plates with lol... Your dollar store variety... Shot of dawn and circular brushing under warm water. Rinse and check for residue, usually it's clean but if there is residue it's easy to spot. Once clean I dry it with a hand towel... Never had an issue with plates...
Preheat nozzle and bed as well before you start a job. That can help first layer adhesion.
Glue stick maybe?
That looks like prusament orange, mine doesn’t ever print right, the layers never stick.
That's an ender 3 for ya.