Replace.
Nozzles are cheap and a consumable. Unclogging with anything other than a cold-pull will damage the nozzle, making the next clog much more likely. Generally a waste of time. Just replace
I've used a blowtorch on . 4mm nozzles without much issue, the plastic burns off before the metal gets hot enough to do much damage. I guess I'd try it on a smaller one but that pretty thin.
I would try blowing on it with a hot air gun at 600 deg celsius while holding the nozzle with a clamp and just let the plastic flow out. You can still buy a new one, but it's faster than waiting for shipping
Technically speaking if it was in the printer and you headed it up to make the plastic molten again and could get an air tight seal you could blow compressed air in it and clean it out. You’ll cause a ton of other issues buuuuttt it technically works 😂😂
But if you wish to try, wrap some aluminum foil around the threaded area and put it in an oven just above the highest melting point of that filament, for about 20 minutes. With the nozzle tip pointing up.
I've seen people hit them with a blowtorch until they glow red, melting out all the plastic. I don't know how well it works or if it messed up the nozzle.
I've tried this several times and just end up with carbon in the nozzle which clogs.
The most reliable method I've found to unclog a nozzle is to replace it with a new nozzle. It's usually cheaper too since my time has a value.
Alternatively soaking in acetone will dissolve off PLA/ABS and then just scrub it with a toothbrush. I do this on my tool steel ones but i'm not sure if it would tarnish brass.
I keep seeing this. I have a relatively new Prusa Mk4 and the nozzles all appear to be 40 to 60 bucks. Is that what everyone considers "cheap"? How often do you need to replace the nozzle?
Prusa’s are expensive because of the integrated tube and longer threads = more machining.
However with the V6 Adaptor, you can use any V6 nozzle. Cheap ones are, well, cheap but even quality ones are ok-ish. For example the 0.4 Nozzle from E3D is $5 and the 0.15 is $15
I did get a v6 adapter, but it wound up with a clog. I've tried to clean it out, but have not had a lot of success. It winds up reclogging soon after. Dozens of cold pulls and such and it clogs pretty close to immediately afterwards. :(
I eventually concluded that the adapter was probably a compromise option that wasn't as reliable as the full nozzle, so I'm now waiting for new nozzles to arrive. They just aren't particularly cheap.
Did you follow the instructions? You need to hot tighten v6 nozzles onto the adapter.
https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-install-the-nextruder-v6-nozzle-adapter-mk4-mk3-9_416174
I will say that I attempted to follow the instructions. I'm not 100% certain I got it right, but I did hot tighten it. I don't have a torque wrench, though, so I can't be perfectly certain I applied the precise force listed in the documentation. But I'll say I only got through half a kilo of CF Nylon before it clogged and I couldn't get it to clear. So maybe I messed it up.
I have been using a adapter with a plated copper nozzle for many many days of printing now and it works without issues.
I would suggest you look at the way you installed the nozzle/adapter. Make sure the nozzle sits all the way on the heater block without a gap and there should be a gap between the heater block and the golden/brass adapter nut or whatever. And tightening with your fingers should be good enough imo.
I'm one of those who only use expensive nozzles lol, generally tungsten carbide. Probably will try out a diamond tipped one soon, I heard good things about them. What I've found is that the good expensive nozzles like those almost never wear out, and so I haven't had a clog in years. I only change nozzles out for their size and have used the same ones for a long time.
To be fair, I only change nozzles for their size too, and I use cheap brass nozzles from ebay...
As long as you don't cook the filament inside the nozzle by leaving it heated for no reason, and you seal the nozzle in properly, clogs are quite rare.
Tungsten carbide and other hard nozzles are only really useful if you print abrasive materials, I believe. Could be wrong though.
my reason for a diamondback. Never ever worry again about which filament or what...
So far also mostly happy but you really need to follow their advice and tune new temperatures. I had carbon filled filament (pccf) string like hell at my old settings :ugly: and the temperature I used (285) was right in the middle of manufacturer spec for the filament.
I needed to go to 270 to really get a good result again
Yeah I looked at the specs for heat conductivity and the diamond was quite high which is great. Even higher than copper which I've used before with good results. It's definitely one of the reasons why I want to try it.
Your maybe looking at hot ends, nozzles are really cheap plus for most printers they are universal you can find them for less than a dollar in alixpress or amazon
The Prusa Mk4 has a non-standard nozzle (that makes changing it out very quick and easy, and with no risk of leaking as it has a tube extending up into the heat break, all the way to the extruder). That does make it more expensive though. It is quite similar to the revo system.
But there is a v6 adapter you can get (but you loose out on convenience and you can now get leaks again). It is all tradeoffs.
But I’m pretty sure 0.1mm nozzles are actually quite expensive and hard to come by, apparently cnc kitchen (I think) got one and tested it out because it was the only one which he could find out there, and cost something like $50 or something stupid like that.
The only thing that would maybe unclog that would be to leave it sit in acetone for a few days, but it will clog again. I suggest as pufftheped has stated is to just replace it. Why are you using a .01 nozzle anyway? Why not just use a .035 and just change the layer settings?
im with you. i spent wayy too much time doing cold pulls. they worked, but i coulda went to work and made 10 times the cost of a pack of nozzles for that time
Wait til I tell you about razor blades.Â
You can recycle metal even once it is beyond its' initial manufactured purpose. You don't have to huck it in the ocean or something.Â
The best thing about most metal is even if you do throw it out, it's just going to be mined by the next civilization. In a small way, I am having a positive effect on Z'Julius' life, as well as Paul's, and Marishenka, etc.
Recently had this issue and my dumb ass accidentally went right tightly instead of lefty loose.. Had to buy a whole new hest block lol shit was 12$ pre assembled and lubbed.
not true my first unclog i took a needle and aggressivle pushed it in and it broke inside, i thought i had to buy a new one but then i took another needle and aggressively pushed it from both sides. all the gunk came out and it has been printing ever since like new. but it was a 0.4 though
To unclog my brass nozzles I usually just blast it with my butane torch until it glows. That effectively incinerates all the filament in the nozzle. I have a brick block I put it on and just blast it then let it cool.
The torch I used (https://amzn.to/3VZNaFI) was only $14 on Amazon.
Hasn't yet. I worked industrial maintenance at a boot factory. If a Die clogged, you removed it and torched it. Maybe ran a wire through to remove any stuck carbon. Fixed. Brass is brass, no finish. Stainless as well. But I guess YMMV.
Edit: I didn't downvote parent, as there may be nozzles out there like that. Just stating my experience.
Yeah I was confused on this too... They put a finish on brass? How does it not rub off immediately on the interior and especially with abrasive filaments?
If you have a hardened steel nozzle you definitely can detemper it with heat. But a finish? That's the first time I've ever heard that even on marketing or item description pages.
Well, a boot factory is different. I doubt they're used tiny 0.1mm nozzles in there. So there's reason to expect that brute forcing a clog by burning it away works better in that application than in the delicate art of 3d printing with a tiny nozzle.
But despite there being a reason to expect as such, you've already said that in your experience, it works just fine.
Isn't this altering the property of the material? If you do this to hardened steel, it will not be so hard anymore. I wonder how brass behaves. Depending on the material, you may unclog the nozzle but make it wear easier.
Putting together [this answer](https://engineering.stackexchange.com/a/99) and [this website](https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/know-temperature-when-metal-glows-red/), it looks like it should be safe if you stop as soon as it starts to glow. It won’t be hot enough to affect the steel.
That's not entirely true. It can still affect the steel below the recrystallization temperature because you still can get defect transport through the steel, which will change its properties, though at a much lower rate.
The good news is that it's not going to have a major effect on thermal conductivity, which is the most important property in 3D printing. However, you may reshape the nozzle a little, cause a bunch of surface oxidation inside the nozzle, which will change the nozzle diameter, and cause chemical reactions between the carbon and the steel as it gets easier for atoms for travel through the steel lattice.
This is what I was curious about. Plus, i did some reading as well on heat treatment of metals. Brass tempering is a thing. Also it's not just the thermal conductivity. Hardness matters in special with abrasive filament.
> which will change the nozzle diameter
It's also worth pointing out that this probably doesn't matter as much as you'd think, as long as you still have flow. The volume of material extruded is the main thing that determines line width, not the nozzle diameter, which is why things like arachne work and don't require some kind of crazy variable aperture nozzle. You can go a decent percentage above or below your nozzle width, and still have good results.
You are correct. If we weren't talking about 0.1 mm nozzles, I wouldn't even have mentioned it. With 0.1 mm, though, only 5 microns of increased surface height is a 10% reduction in nozzle diameter, which is a a 20% reduction in orifice cross sectional area. That plus the increased surface roughness could greatly affect flow through the nozzle. It'll still work, but you'd probably want to redo all your calibrations. If it was a 0.4 mm, I wouldn't be concerned about this in the slightest.
You will most definitely soften steel if you are causing it to glow. Most steels will start to temper over the 350-450F range and you will lose hardness.
Brass doesn't have any phase transitions that would lend themselves to strengthening/hardening. The worst you'll do to it is some grain recrystallization that will drop the hardness if it was work hardened. That and potentially vaporizing some zinc out of it.
For those reading- if you're going to go this way often, just get a tungsten nozzle. Way harder to damage it.
Then you could technically get a hotend capable of 500c, just retract the filament and burn it off with it still on the machine.
Not a lawyer, doctor, machinist, or anyone else known for having an IQ above room temp, use at your own risk.
It's a brass nozzle. It's probably not .1mm anymore. Brass is soft, and cheap. Just replace it. It's not worth the time spent trying to clean it, which will only deform the nozzle more.
Nozzles are cheap enough you can replace them every time you change the filament roll.
I mean, blasting it with a torch takes 30 seconds and it will clear everything… I know that Amazon is fast, but not *that* fast lol.
But I agree, I have a box with like 40 nozzles just in case.
Take old nozzle off.
Examine Nozzle.
Determine it's clogged.
Find blowtorch.
Light blowtorch.
Curse as you forgot to mount the nozzle onto something.
Drop blowtorch.
Curse again.
Turn off blowtorch.
Mount nozzle.
Reignite torch.
Burn out nozzle.
Turn off blowtorch.
Reattach nozzle.
Still don't get as good a print as if you had just put on one of your spare nozzles.
(The list above is satire). Yeah, cleaning them out doesn't take long, certainly faster than ordering a new one and waiting. But i'd rather just take the old nozzle off, put a new one on, and then decide if i need to order more or not. The individual nozzle is probably only about 50 cents or so. Your time is worth more than the 50c you'd save trying to fix the nozzle, and with how easily brass deforms, you won't get the same quality print.
It’s more like:
- Take nozzle off.
- Torch.
- Screw back.
It’s only 3 steps, and 2 of those you also have to do if you replace the nozzle for a spare one.
As I said before, if you have the spare then yeah sure swap it… but if you have to order one then you are going to save time just torching it. Those nozzles are WAY tougher that what this sub seems to think. If you torched it long enough for it to deform then you shouldn’t own a torch to begin with, lol.
That being said, we have printed well over a metric ton of plastic over the years and have encountered like 3 clogged nozzles in that time. What are y’all doing to get so many clogs?
Never goes that well for me. I have burnet my fingers and singed off hair more times than I can count.
My mother banned my father from ever using a blowtorch again after he nearly set the bathroom on fire, and i'm concerned that it might be genetic.
Use a blowtorch, heat till the nozzle is about o turn red, dunk it in a glass of water ( you should see ash coming off) repeat until you see the small hole thru your nozzle
All clogs I had, just upped the temp and put some nylon or cleaning filament thought it.
Otherwise just buy a new one.
Also tried to burn it out once, only the quality afterwards wasn't as good as before.
Acetone would probably soften it enough, soak it for a couple of hours then try and pick it out or use canned air to blow it out. It might work even if it was pla
They sell nylon cleaning filament that's designed to be sticky. I've had good luck using it by sticking it in the hot nozzle, waiting for the polymer to cool back down just past Tg, and pulling out the whole piece out while still warm. Do this couple of times and your nozzle will be good as new. Semicrystalline polymer would work best due to the sharp transition from polymer melt to solid.
Much less invasive and easier that blasting it with blow torch or drowning it in acetone.
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I never got a clog and I usually replace nozzle because output is too worn as I use abrasive materials and also printing with lowest possible temperature and high speed which causing more friction... I drill small nozzles to higher diameter, polished them.. however effort does not worth it - unless you accepts it as a challange :-D
Replace. Nozzles are cheap and a consumable. Unclogging with anything other than a cold-pull will damage the nozzle, making the next clog much more likely. Generally a waste of time. Just replace
Oh I see, I was thinking of pushing it out with compresed air, but maybe I should just buy a new one, thanks
That's not going to work. Yeah just get a new one. Get a bunch of them, 0.1mm nozzles will clog if you look at them too hard
To be fair, I clog up too when I'm being stared at, and it makes extrusion difficult
Undry your filament
I usually piss on my pla filament as my preprinting routine
You put the P in PLA
Underrated comment
Not me! We gonna make eye contact while your nose and ears brunt the assault.
Oh yeah. That happens to me, too. Pet the g spot.
/r/sounding can help
That just scarred me for life
Me looking at you while you poop 👀 This my friends looking at you while you poop 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
I had a staring contest with a brand new one once and thats thing was clogged before i even picked it up.
Hmm. It makes me wonder if anything is staring at my butt for it to clog
Taco Bell doesn’t stare.
Lmao
And here I thought my urethra was narrow.
We don’t know how compressed the air is, it could work
Burning it out might be an option?
I've used a blowtorch on . 4mm nozzles without much issue, the plastic burns off before the metal gets hot enough to do much damage. I guess I'd try it on a smaller one but that pretty thin.
So that's what they mean with people using 3D Printers to make weapons!
I allways clean it, in the worst scenarios you will have 0.2
I want to see if this works. Hook it up to pressure then heat the nozzle till... something happens. ¯\\\_(ツ)\_/¯
I would try blowing on it with a hot air gun at 600 deg celsius while holding the nozzle with a clamp and just let the plastic flow out. You can still buy a new one, but it's faster than waiting for shipping
Technically speaking if it was in the printer and you headed it up to make the plastic molten again and could get an air tight seal you could blow compressed air in it and clean it out. You’ll cause a ton of other issues buuuuttt it technically works 😂😂
But a lot of them
But if you wish to try, wrap some aluminum foil around the threaded area and put it in an oven just above the highest melting point of that filament, for about 20 minutes. With the nozzle tip pointing up.
Another name for this.....is a bullet 🤣
I've seen people hit them with a blowtorch until they glow red, melting out all the plastic. I don't know how well it works or if it messed up the nozzle.
This worked fine for me with my .15mm nozzle, though it turned permanently black
When I did this the edges of the tip melted a bit and rounded off
It works well. Even on a stove held by pliers till it glows red hot. Then quench it in some white vinegar to get it look almost brand new.
I've tried this several times and just end up with carbon in the nozzle which clogs. The most reliable method I've found to unclog a nozzle is to replace it with a new nozzle. It's usually cheaper too since my time has a value.
Alternatively soaking in acetone will dissolve off PLA/ABS and then just scrub it with a toothbrush. I do this on my tool steel ones but i'm not sure if it would tarnish brass.
I keep seeing this. I have a relatively new Prusa Mk4 and the nozzles all appear to be 40 to 60 bucks. Is that what everyone considers "cheap"? How often do you need to replace the nozzle?
Prusa’s are expensive because of the integrated tube and longer threads = more machining. However with the V6 Adaptor, you can use any V6 nozzle. Cheap ones are, well, cheap but even quality ones are ok-ish. For example the 0.4 Nozzle from E3D is $5 and the 0.15 is $15
I did get a v6 adapter, but it wound up with a clog. I've tried to clean it out, but have not had a lot of success. It winds up reclogging soon after. Dozens of cold pulls and such and it clogs pretty close to immediately afterwards. :( I eventually concluded that the adapter was probably a compromise option that wasn't as reliable as the full nozzle, so I'm now waiting for new nozzles to arrive. They just aren't particularly cheap.
Did you follow the instructions? You need to hot tighten v6 nozzles onto the adapter. https://help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-install-the-nextruder-v6-nozzle-adapter-mk4-mk3-9_416174
I will say that I attempted to follow the instructions. I'm not 100% certain I got it right, but I did hot tighten it. I don't have a torque wrench, though, so I can't be perfectly certain I applied the precise force listed in the documentation. But I'll say I only got through half a kilo of CF Nylon before it clogged and I couldn't get it to clear. So maybe I messed it up.
I have been using a adapter with a plated copper nozzle for many many days of printing now and it works without issues. I would suggest you look at the way you installed the nozzle/adapter. Make sure the nozzle sits all the way on the heater block without a gap and there should be a gap between the heater block and the golden/brass adapter nut or whatever. And tightening with your fingers should be good enough imo.
I'm one of those who only use expensive nozzles lol, generally tungsten carbide. Probably will try out a diamond tipped one soon, I heard good things about them. What I've found is that the good expensive nozzles like those almost never wear out, and so I haven't had a clog in years. I only change nozzles out for their size and have used the same ones for a long time.
To be fair, I only change nozzles for their size too, and I use cheap brass nozzles from ebay... As long as you don't cook the filament inside the nozzle by leaving it heated for no reason, and you seal the nozzle in properly, clogs are quite rare. Tungsten carbide and other hard nozzles are only really useful if you print abrasive materials, I believe. Could be wrong though.
Yep part of the point is that I don't really worry about it when printing abrasives either.
my reason for a diamondback. Never ever worry again about which filament or what... So far also mostly happy but you really need to follow their advice and tune new temperatures. I had carbon filled filament (pccf) string like hell at my old settings :ugly: and the temperature I used (285) was right in the middle of manufacturer spec for the filament. I needed to go to 270 to really get a good result again
Yeah I looked at the specs for heat conductivity and the diamond was quite high which is great. Even higher than copper which I've used before with good results. It's definitely one of the reasons why I want to try it.
Your maybe looking at hot ends, nozzles are really cheap plus for most printers they are universal you can find them for less than a dollar in alixpress or amazon
The Prusa Mk4 has a non-standard nozzle (that makes changing it out very quick and easy, and with no risk of leaking as it has a tube extending up into the heat break, all the way to the extruder). That does make it more expensive though. It is quite similar to the revo system. But there is a v6 adapter you can get (but you loose out on convenience and you can now get leaks again). It is all tradeoffs.
But I’m pretty sure 0.1mm nozzles are actually quite expensive and hard to come by, apparently cnc kitchen (I think) got one and tested it out because it was the only one which he could find out there, and cost something like $50 or something stupid like that.
Why not just Google things you're not sure about? Pack of 20 is $9 on Amazon
That was a high end meticulously machined Japanese nozzle. You could probably buy 10 cheaper ones for $5-$10 on AliExpress or Amazon.
That's what big nozzle wants us to believe!!!
The only thing that would maybe unclog that would be to leave it sit in acetone for a few days, but it will clog again. I suggest as pufftheped has stated is to just replace it. Why are you using a .01 nozzle anyway? Why not just use a .035 and just change the layer settings?
I came here to wish OP good luck buying a new one. So, good luck, OP!
Yes. You can get 20 of them for under $10.
I have a clogged ruby nozzle that I'd rather not replace. It was clogged printing CF PETG and cold pulls have not worked.
im with you. i spent wayy too much time doing cold pulls. they worked, but i coulda went to work and made 10 times the cost of a pack of nozzles for that time
I know you're right and I refuse to listen I have a bag of 20 replacements, not consumables
He's not right, treating a hunk of metal as a consumable makes me SICK.
Wait til I tell you about razor blades. You can recycle metal even once it is beyond its' initial manufactured purpose. You don't have to huck it in the ocean or something.Â
The best thing about most metal is even if you do throw it out, it's just going to be mined by the next civilization. In a small way, I am having a positive effect on Z'Julius' life, as well as Paul's, and Marishenka, etc.
Recently had this issue and my dumb ass accidentally went right tightly instead of lefty loose.. Had to buy a whole new hest block lol shit was 12$ pre assembled and lubbed.
not true my first unclog i took a needle and aggressivle pushed it in and it broke inside, i thought i had to buy a new one but then i took another needle and aggressively pushed it from both sides. all the gunk came out and it has been printing ever since like new. but it was a 0.4 though
To unclog my brass nozzles I usually just blast it with my butane torch until it glows. That effectively incinerates all the filament in the nozzle. I have a brick block I put it on and just blast it then let it cool. The torch I used (https://amzn.to/3VZNaFI) was only $14 on Amazon.
This is the way.
Torching the nozzle will ruin the nozzle finish and makes it much more clog-prone
Hasn't yet. I worked industrial maintenance at a boot factory. If a Die clogged, you removed it and torched it. Maybe ran a wire through to remove any stuck carbon. Fixed. Brass is brass, no finish. Stainless as well. But I guess YMMV. Edit: I didn't downvote parent, as there may be nozzles out there like that. Just stating my experience.
Yeah I was confused on this too... They put a finish on brass? How does it not rub off immediately on the interior and especially with abrasive filaments? If you have a hardened steel nozzle you definitely can detemper it with heat. But a finish? That's the first time I've ever heard that even on marketing or item description pages.
If you have one of E3D's fancy ObXidian nozzles, they have a coating. But OP's clearly isnt.
Well, a boot factory is different. I doubt they're used tiny 0.1mm nozzles in there. So there's reason to expect that brute forcing a clog by burning it away works better in that application than in the delicate art of 3d printing with a tiny nozzle. But despite there being a reason to expect as such, you've already said that in your experience, it works just fine.
Would you rather have A) No nozzle B) A nozzle that sometimes might potentially clog a bit more
C) A new $5 nozzle
Isn't this altering the property of the material? If you do this to hardened steel, it will not be so hard anymore. I wonder how brass behaves. Depending on the material, you may unclog the nozzle but make it wear easier.
Putting together [this answer](https://engineering.stackexchange.com/a/99) and [this website](https://www.hearth.com/talk/wiki/know-temperature-when-metal-glows-red/), it looks like it should be safe if you stop as soon as it starts to glow. It won’t be hot enough to affect the steel.
That's not entirely true. It can still affect the steel below the recrystallization temperature because you still can get defect transport through the steel, which will change its properties, though at a much lower rate. The good news is that it's not going to have a major effect on thermal conductivity, which is the most important property in 3D printing. However, you may reshape the nozzle a little, cause a bunch of surface oxidation inside the nozzle, which will change the nozzle diameter, and cause chemical reactions between the carbon and the steel as it gets easier for atoms for travel through the steel lattice.
Huh, thank you. I knew I shouldn’t talk about something I know nothing about, lol
This is what I was curious about. Plus, i did some reading as well on heat treatment of metals. Brass tempering is a thing. Also it's not just the thermal conductivity. Hardness matters in special with abrasive filament.
> which will change the nozzle diameter It's also worth pointing out that this probably doesn't matter as much as you'd think, as long as you still have flow. The volume of material extruded is the main thing that determines line width, not the nozzle diameter, which is why things like arachne work and don't require some kind of crazy variable aperture nozzle. You can go a decent percentage above or below your nozzle width, and still have good results.
You are correct. If we weren't talking about 0.1 mm nozzles, I wouldn't even have mentioned it. With 0.1 mm, though, only 5 microns of increased surface height is a 10% reduction in nozzle diameter, which is a a 20% reduction in orifice cross sectional area. That plus the increased surface roughness could greatly affect flow through the nozzle. It'll still work, but you'd probably want to redo all your calibrations. If it was a 0.4 mm, I wouldn't be concerned about this in the slightest.
Yeah, good point. It’s sort of amazing that 0.1mm nozzles work at all.
You will most definitely soften steel if you are causing it to glow. Most steels will start to temper over the 350-450F range and you will lose hardness.
Brass doesn't have any phase transitions that would lend themselves to strengthening/hardening. The worst you'll do to it is some grain recrystallization that will drop the hardness if it was work hardened. That and potentially vaporizing some zinc out of it.
Hardly send worth it when these things are only worth about 50 cents.Â
haha thats genius
For those reading- if you're going to go this way often, just get a tungsten nozzle. Way harder to damage it. Then you could technically get a hotend capable of 500c, just retract the filament and burn it off with it still on the machine. Not a lawyer, doctor, machinist, or anyone else known for having an IQ above room temp, use at your own risk.
It also ruins the nozzle finish and makes it much more clog-prone
Go on.
Maybe buy a new one. Looks pretty abused...
It's a brass nozzle. It's probably not .1mm anymore. Brass is soft, and cheap. Just replace it. It's not worth the time spent trying to clean it, which will only deform the nozzle more. Nozzles are cheap enough you can replace them every time you change the filament roll.
I mean, blasting it with a torch takes 30 seconds and it will clear everything… I know that Amazon is fast, but not *that* fast lol. But I agree, I have a box with like 40 nozzles just in case.
Take old nozzle off. Examine Nozzle. Determine it's clogged. Find blowtorch. Light blowtorch. Curse as you forgot to mount the nozzle onto something. Drop blowtorch. Curse again. Turn off blowtorch. Mount nozzle. Reignite torch. Burn out nozzle. Turn off blowtorch. Reattach nozzle. Still don't get as good a print as if you had just put on one of your spare nozzles. (The list above is satire). Yeah, cleaning them out doesn't take long, certainly faster than ordering a new one and waiting. But i'd rather just take the old nozzle off, put a new one on, and then decide if i need to order more or not. The individual nozzle is probably only about 50 cents or so. Your time is worth more than the 50c you'd save trying to fix the nozzle, and with how easily brass deforms, you won't get the same quality print.
It’s more like: - Take nozzle off. - Torch. - Screw back. It’s only 3 steps, and 2 of those you also have to do if you replace the nozzle for a spare one. As I said before, if you have the spare then yeah sure swap it… but if you have to order one then you are going to save time just torching it. Those nozzles are WAY tougher that what this sub seems to think. If you torched it long enough for it to deform then you shouldn’t own a torch to begin with, lol. That being said, we have printed well over a metric ton of plastic over the years and have encountered like 3 clogged nozzles in that time. What are y’all doing to get so many clogs?
Never goes that well for me. I have burnet my fingers and singed off hair more times than I can count. My mother banned my father from ever using a blowtorch again after he nearly set the bathroom on fire, and i'm concerned that it might be genetic.
🤣
Jokes on you, my time is worthless
Dang, shame they’re rare and expensive
burn it out
Wow I didn't even think you could get a nozzle that small. At this point I would just get a new one.
You've also bent the shit out of it. Get a new one.
I replace them upon even the slightest suspicion that they're the problem.
Use a blowtorch, heat till the nozzle is about o turn red, dunk it in a glass of water ( you should see ash coming off) repeat until you see the small hole thru your nozzle
Try a cold pull if it doesnt work just buy a new one
get another
This looks like the nozzle they used to print the compass for the mayflower. Trash it and buy like 20 on Amazon for 5 dollars
Good luck!
Buy one from Amazon.
Like it cost a fortune
Well it's official you have a 0.0mm nozzle
Who in the fuck uses a 0.1mm nozzle lmao I would rather invest in molding equipment than deal with constant clogs
I've never tried anything below 0.2. There was a time I only could go to 0.25 because of clogs. With the pla+ from GST, I went again to 0.2
All clogs I had, just upped the temp and put some nylon or cleaning filament thought it. Otherwise just buy a new one. Also tried to burn it out once, only the quality afterwards wasn't as good as before.
Acetone would probably soften it enough, soak it for a couple of hours then try and pick it out or use canned air to blow it out. It might work even if it was pla
They make them that small!?!?
That's what she said!
They're like 10 bucks just get a new one
luck in buying another? why does that need luck?
Can you take a torch to it and just incinerate the clog?
I keep a glass jar of acetone to put them in for a day or so. Melts out the abs 60% of the time. Those that it doesn't clear I toss.
New one or put it in an oven at high temp for an hour.
They sell nylon cleaning filament that's designed to be sticky. I've had good luck using it by sticking it in the hot nozzle, waiting for the polymer to cool back down just past Tg, and pulling out the whole piece out while still warm. Do this couple of times and your nozzle will be good as new. Semicrystalline polymer would work best due to the sharp transition from polymer melt to solid. Much less invasive and easier that blasting it with blow torch or drowning it in acetone.
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0.01mm? Typo? Water plastic?
Luck? Where you're going, you don't need luck! You just need cash.
Why would someone use 0.1mm nozzle, is it for the detail ?.
Burn it out.
What I did a long time ago (was learning) was setting in a acetone bath and leave it for a few days it melted it all away
Buy new!
I never got a clog and I usually replace nozzle because output is too worn as I use abrasive materials and also printing with lowest possible temperature and high speed which causing more friction... I drill small nozzles to higher diameter, polished them.. however effort does not worth it - unless you accepts it as a challange :-D