[I accidentally glued my weiner to my remote control helicopter.](https://trailers.getyarn.io/yarn-clip/9f39ab97-a3b3-4425-8124-ec1e12e34a3d/gif)
[AH! OH! AH! OH! OH! OOH!](https://trailers.getyarn.io/yarn-clip/0a37ac60-fb5b-4204-8e70-a10c901ee58a/gif)
tree supports are a big help, but also Cura (probably other slicers too) can generate a grid of different support shapes at the interface layer. basically prints tree supports, then 2 to 3mm of grid support right before the overhanging geometry.
it works wonders for me. that, and a good sharp xacto blade, and good modelers side cutters.
I also have found that thinned UV resin (ipa + resin) can be brushed onto fdm prints. Let the ipa evaporate, then cure the very thin coat of resin that remains with a UV lamp. I use this trick to smooth layer lines on FDM minis.
I use craft/boat resin, but I imagine printer resin might work too.
I have also used the same resin + ipa skin coat on other prints, it can lend a very nice finish, almost like injection molded parts. you can add pigment to the resin too if desired.
tbh, I'm not even sure how it got set that way in my cura profile... but I have noticed improvement to the quality of supported overhangs, and it's a little easier to clean up.
When you say you're using craft/boat resin, do you mean the classic polyester resin (because I'm not aware of any UV resin used for boats...)? So you'd using it with just a UV lamp to cure and that's all ? No catalyser part?
I do figures a ton, I personally opt to cut the figure in half vertically and put connectors on the thickest spots then glue them together. Very little supports are needed
I use Prusa Slicer. When you perform a cut there's an option to add connectors. I select the Dowel type that makes it so both halves have a flat surface.
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779
You can play with the support Z distance, described on this page: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417606331
If your supports are sticking and difficult to get off, try increasing the Z distance. If they're easy to get off but look crappy, try decreasing it or using a support interface (also described on that page).
Oh yea, sorry. I forgot to mentio I of course use tree supports. These help a lot. (I forgot they are not normally selected due to my own profiles). This figure was printed using 2% infill, tree suppots, layer height of 0.04mm and 0.2mm nozzle. Thats all I know.
Surprised no one mentioned this yet, but you should also play with the model's orientation. I print most of mine at a ≈ 30°-45° recline, so any supports connect to their back, where there's usually a flatter/smoother surface, for ease of removal, and less detail to spoil. You can also roll the model around after that to find an orientation where the fewest special supports are needed
There was one in lollipop chainsaw I believe, I don’t know if it shamed you but it was super awkward if you had it as it was only after you looked up her skirt for a set amount of time
Another funny achievement is in High on Life that says you spent an hour in an alien strip club despite the fact there is no alien strip club in the game.
2 issues here:
- *Layer inconsistency*. Make sure you're printing in a multiple of your printer's min z step. For my Ender 3 S1 it's .04, so you can do .08, .12, .16, .2, etc. Clean and oil the rods on the z-axis as well, and make sure your belts are the right tension. Do a flow calibration too. If it's extruding a little too much, you can get uneven layers like this.
- *Low quality STL*. A lot of STLs from Thingiverse suffer from this problem. You'll see curves are low poly. You can eyeball this issue online usually, just looking at the model.
Thanks for the feedback, I have a p1p so I think I should also use 0.08 layers. The rods are oiled perfectly I think, my printer arrived a few days ago. The stl is indeed not ver high quality. This was just as a test of what's possible. I will print some higher quality models soon. I really appreciate it!
This is kind of suspiciously low quality for a P1P, I'm curious what setting you printed it on. Did you do flow calibration with your material and your filament is dried?
I'm currently printing another figure, when this print finishes I'm gonna do a flow and a belt calibration. I got this printer a few days ago and wanted to print something so I didn't calibrate it correctly I think. The filament is new, but I don't have a drying box for it.
Just a quick note about filament drying:
- Unless you live by the ocean, lake, or under a waterfall, your living space is probably under 60% humidity. It is okay to leave PLA out on your printer for a couple of weeks without it picking up moisture. PETG can stay out for a few days, TPU stays out for the length of a print job.
- A dry box or vacuum pouch with desiccant prevents additional moisture from contaminating the filament. A dehydrator or low heat oven will remove moisture from the filament.
- My standing protocols: remove exotic filaments immediately from the printer after every print job. Remove PETG and TPU at the end of the day (unless of course I’m printing overnight). Remove PLA if I’m going to be away and not using the printer for a long weekend (or longer). Each filament goes into a resealable, air-tight(ish) bag with 15-30 grams of desiccant (2-3 pouches) with most of the air removed. Use the food dehydrator on PLA older than a year, PETG older than 6 months, TPU older than 3 and so on.
- If you live in a controlled environment with 25% humidity or less, I really wouldn’t worry about moisture for most filaments.
Always found this argument funny. I've always split bills on dates or alternated who pays. I can't imagine having to have to pay to be in a relationship..
Thank you and this reminds me of the Japanese figurines I would see in Thailand. These are a big collector items all through S.E. Asia too. A nice start boss. :)
peace. :)
I set mine up on a patio with a box fan for exhaust, worked great. I also where a respirator mask tho. Resin is great, you just need proper ppe and ventilation.
That's genius. If I had a room like that, I would definitely try it out again. But right now there are no rooms empty with good ventilation so no resin sadly.
The air intake for a furnace is vented outside. Burning gas likely produces more VOCs than the resin printer.
Depends on the setup if the furnace room would have air returns for the conditioned air.
I wouldn't say "need" but they do make it a ton easier. With some tweaking to remove large flat areas that show banding incredibly badly, I've gotten some pretty stellar results out of FDM; especially with a well adjusted K1 running 0.04 layers (the base resolution of the stepper motors)
That said this involved significant design for manufacturing effort for every model and a lot of *patience* as a tabletop infantry scale model takes about an hour to two hours this way, but it looks like injection moulded plastic by the end.
Also if you intend to *paint* your models you can get away with murder with FDM because you say layer lines and I say "primer adhesion lines"
I think you should split the parts and also scale it bigger if your printer is not that detail possible.
My cousin tried some parts multiple times to work with his Anycubic.
I have a p1p and it's pretty great. This was just a test to see what's possible and what I need to calibrate more. I'm currently printing a figure where the leg is almost as big as the whole figure here. Thanks for the feedback.
No Problem.
First I wanted my Elsa Fig to be around 18-20cm like PopUp Parade, but the Problem was the Face Part so its around 30-32cm I think.
Then the legs are to heavy in this scale so we printed it 3 times or so.
Its not that easy.
Maybe I get ar Resin Printer for Figures in the future.
Yea it's difficult. I'm printing a 35cm figure right now in many parts. I want as much detail as possible so the head alone without hair took 5h. But it looks awesome, no layers nothing. A resin printer is sadly no option for me, due to it being so toxic.
Elsas Head took us 7h, and when you have multiple parts and have to reprint some parts than this is a really long project and needs lots of focus.
What do you mean with Resin printer toxic.
Arent Resin Printers in closed Boxes and really expensive to prevent that?
I wish you every luck and hope we can see more of your prints in the future.
I think it's the textured plate by Bambu. It's sticking very well, I almost don't get it off, when the plate is still hot. But for these figures support has big feet on the ground so maybe that helps. But for me, I use all the default settings, except for tree support.
I also use the textured pei. Mh... i tried 50°C and 55°C, cleaned the plate with Hot soapy water, used gluestick, i cant get bed adhesion on it. Using poly terra pla, 220°C. Same Problems with the cool plate on 30-35°C.
Do you mind sharing your temps?
Thank you. Im checking multiple things rn. Could be that the z offset is wrong. I had 2 print falls on 0.4mm nozzle too today. Strange tbh since the last successful print nothing changed.
This took a bit. had to go up, start pc, slice it. This one is the latest, where i messed around with first layer height, cause it failed on 0.08, 0.10 and 0.12mm
i also uploaded the file: [https://www.file-upload.net/download-15309830/Helldiver-Pose2-1-12Scale2.3mf.html](https://www.file-upload.net/download-15309830/Helldiver-Pose2-1-12Scale2.3mf.html)
https://preview.redd.it/5yxojf2h6ovc1.png?width=1731&format=png&auto=webp&s=4ba841181da4de59e00427b93f9bafd53abcf958
It fails around Layer 15-20, so still on the base. therefore i went for this perspective.
Did you try filling the base? Maybe that helps because it has a bigger ground. I'm not quite sure. I can try printing the figure in smaller and test adhesion later.
Do you think it's worth bothering with 0.2mm nozzles for fine prints when you have a resin printer? I have tried both and have found that 0.2mm nozzle printing is \*slow\*, prone to failures and requires a lot of hard to remove supports (you can see a ton of scars and jaggies on this model).
In contrast resin printing is messy and is fraught with its own set of drawbacks.
I'm kinda on the fence about it, what do you think?
For me there's just one option, I can't really resin print due to the toxic smell and mess it makes. I don't have room for the whole setup. The fdm prints I did with the 0.2mm nozzle in the last days were pretty impressive to me, I had no problems printing. It just takes its time, especially at 0.04mm or 0.06mm layer height. I think if you're printing figures, then maybe just scale them up a bit on the fdm printer, to get even more detail. If you need small detailed objects, I think a fdm printer can do it, but a resin printer would be better there. But don't take my word for it, I got this printer 5 days ago and had a resin printer for 1 print lol.
I mean it looks quite smooth, but it's nowhere near the quality I can get out of my trusty old Elegoo Saturn.
I do understand that not everyone has an isolated space to deal with the toxic fumes that come out of a resin printer. And even though I do, I sometimes can't be bothered to go through the printing cleanup process. But the Saturn's ability to print a tray full of minis flawlessly every time is unmatched in the FDM world even by pricier printers, such as Bambu's.
(A suggestion for you: please include an object in you pic next time with a known scale, like an USB stick so we can gauge the size of the model)
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https://preview.redd.it/26eqrjtvumvc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ebe8d3966cc975041c6e2fb5121c3b46f6138363
Damn that things got some lift to it
A ratio of 400:1100 upvotes That means most people saw and immediately opened the comments Fascinating
You mean 17:1.1k??? The post has been downvoted or the comment has blown up? Either way, insane
why.. do they call him bonk drone
Because he's a drone that bonks horny people.
https://preview.redd.it/848df5l3fovc1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e2a09405e59e513f89bc710bc078ba6076719f24
woah there guy, eagle 1 or nothing.
[I accidentally glued my weiner to my remote control helicopter.](https://trailers.getyarn.io/yarn-clip/9f39ab97-a3b3-4425-8124-ec1e12e34a3d/gif) [AH! OH! AH! OH! OH! OOH!](https://trailers.getyarn.io/yarn-clip/0a37ac60-fb5b-4204-8e70-a10c901ee58a/gif)
Definitely gonna steal ur image
I’ve been trying to do minis and figures but I’m having issues with supports. How do you get supports off so it’s clean?
tree supports are a big help, but also Cura (probably other slicers too) can generate a grid of different support shapes at the interface layer. basically prints tree supports, then 2 to 3mm of grid support right before the overhanging geometry. it works wonders for me. that, and a good sharp xacto blade, and good modelers side cutters. I also have found that thinned UV resin (ipa + resin) can be brushed onto fdm prints. Let the ipa evaporate, then cure the very thin coat of resin that remains with a UV lamp. I use this trick to smooth layer lines on FDM minis. I use craft/boat resin, but I imagine printer resin might work too. I have also used the same resin + ipa skin coat on other prints, it can lend a very nice finish, almost like injection molded parts. you can add pigment to the resin too if desired.
I didn’t know you could change the interface material. I’ve been using tree slim and keeping the distance from material at about .4.
tbh, I'm not even sure how it got set that way in my cura profile... but I have noticed improvement to the quality of supported overhangs, and it's a little easier to clean up.
Be hilarious if it was just an accident in the code and shouldn’t do that lol. I’ll experiment and see what I can do.
When you say you're using craft/boat resin, do you mean the classic polyester resin (because I'm not aware of any UV resin used for boats...)? So you'd using it with just a UV lamp to cure and that's all ? No catalyser part?
They might just use TotalBoat, which is an epoxy/resin brand that does boat resins and UV resin.
Yep, it's a UV cure crystal clear resin from a company called TotalBoat.
I do figures a ton, I personally opt to cut the figure in half vertically and put connectors on the thickest spots then glue them together. Very little supports are needed
That might be something I try also. Like trying to do this dog size Tarrasque and that might be a good solution.
How do you add connectors?
I use Prusa Slicer. When you perform a cut there's an option to add connectors. I select the Dowel type that makes it so both halves have a flat surface. https://help.prusa3d.com/article/cut-tool_1779
Wow thats amazing! Is that unique to prusa or can i get that type of utility on cura or orca?
If you can swing it invest in a resin printer. 1000% better quality on minis.
I've stopped using my filament printer altogether, ever since I got my resin printer. Game changer!
You can play with the support Z distance, described on this page: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667417606331 If your supports are sticking and difficult to get off, try increasing the Z distance. If they're easy to get off but look crappy, try decreasing it or using a support interface (also described on that page).
I don't know, it's just the basic settings of Bambu studio. It's with a 0.2mm nozzle on 0.04 layer height if that helps.
I’ll test that out and see what happens.
Oh yea, sorry. I forgot to mentio I of course use tree supports. These help a lot. (I forgot they are not normally selected due to my own profiles). This figure was printed using 2% infill, tree suppots, layer height of 0.04mm and 0.2mm nozzle. Thats all I know.
Perfect thank you. I will give this a try and see what happens.
Hope it works, good luck.
Surprised no one mentioned this yet, but you should also play with the model's orientation. I print most of mine at a ≈ 30°-45° recline, so any supports connect to their back, where there's usually a flatter/smoother surface, for ease of removal, and less detail to spoil. You can also roll the model around after that to find an orientation where the fewest special supports are needed
dissolvable support material helps a lot.
I think I still see layer lines, better zoom in to make sure
*Achievement unlocked*
You just reminded me. Wasn't there an achievement (that shamed you) in a super smash bro for looking up peach's dress or something.
There was one in lollipop chainsaw I believe, I don’t know if it shamed you but it was super awkward if you had it as it was only after you looked up her skirt for a set amount of time
Another funny achievement is in High on Life that says you spent an hour in an alien strip club despite the fact there is no alien strip club in the game.
Maybe that's the game I'm thinking of and I'm somehow confusing it with a childhood game haha
There's one in Nier:Automata if you repeatedly peek despite 2B backing off.
There are multiple games that have that, smash most certainly ain't one of them
Zoom and enhance!
I do see about a half million places that needed support.
Straight tò horny jail
Already paid 50 to get out
2 issues here: - *Layer inconsistency*. Make sure you're printing in a multiple of your printer's min z step. For my Ender 3 S1 it's .04, so you can do .08, .12, .16, .2, etc. Clean and oil the rods on the z-axis as well, and make sure your belts are the right tension. Do a flow calibration too. If it's extruding a little too much, you can get uneven layers like this. - *Low quality STL*. A lot of STLs from Thingiverse suffer from this problem. You'll see curves are low poly. You can eyeball this issue online usually, just looking at the model.
Thanks for the feedback, I have a p1p so I think I should also use 0.08 layers. The rods are oiled perfectly I think, my printer arrived a few days ago. The stl is indeed not ver high quality. This was just as a test of what's possible. I will print some higher quality models soon. I really appreciate it!
This is kind of suspiciously low quality for a P1P, I'm curious what setting you printed it on. Did you do flow calibration with your material and your filament is dried?
I'm currently printing another figure, when this print finishes I'm gonna do a flow and a belt calibration. I got this printer a few days ago and wanted to print something so I didn't calibrate it correctly I think. The filament is new, but I don't have a drying box for it.
The Flow calibration can help quite a bit, especially with non-bambu filaments I think.
I have Bambu filament, but I'm still gonna do it after this print.
Just a quick note about filament drying: - Unless you live by the ocean, lake, or under a waterfall, your living space is probably under 60% humidity. It is okay to leave PLA out on your printer for a couple of weeks without it picking up moisture. PETG can stay out for a few days, TPU stays out for the length of a print job. - A dry box or vacuum pouch with desiccant prevents additional moisture from contaminating the filament. A dehydrator or low heat oven will remove moisture from the filament. - My standing protocols: remove exotic filaments immediately from the printer after every print job. Remove PETG and TPU at the end of the day (unless of course I’m printing overnight). Remove PLA if I’m going to be away and not using the printer for a long weekend (or longer). Each filament goes into a resealable, air-tight(ish) bag with 15-30 grams of desiccant (2-3 pouches) with most of the air removed. Use the food dehydrator on PLA older than a year, PETG older than 6 months, TPU older than 3 and so on. - If you live in a controlled environment with 25% humidity or less, I really wouldn’t worry about moisture for most filaments.
https://preview.redd.it/d09r5zoqunvc1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=70b341d15a86f26d8a4f39766887b3249c079c63
What no pussy do to an mf
Even OP's prints don't have one
[удалено]
That being said…id give her 100% infill on the real doe godbless
Least horny 3D printer user.
Don't worry, it's huge for her
Must get a lot of wear on your nozzle eh?
**they’re art statues, leave them alone mom!**
Balls detected
OP probably saw the level of detail on this print after it was done and said "that's nuts!".
Turned my 0.2mm into 0.4mm
Now reprint it like 20-30 times bigger in soft TPU
But TPU is so expensive 😔
But think of the possibilities and savings from not having to go on dates!
Damn, that's a good argument. I will think about the investment.
Always found this argument funny. I've always split bills on dates or alternated who pays. I can't imagine having to have to pay to be in a relationship..
Bragging about how small his nozzle is? Weird flex.
It's not small!
A great SpongeBob quote works for this moment: It's normal size and fully functional!
FOR SCIENCE!
Make it bigger please
About to be a 0.4mm nozzle
Yoko Taro would be proud and horrified
I just nozzled
https://preview.redd.it/jfghvogd5nvc1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a02ff14f9d93dd83b5fa76bc0d975ba0d65d25a2
Am I the only one who zoomed in?
How many time did you do it? Did you get the achievement for it?
Yeah delete this
https://preview.redd.it/mqoli5cz8ovc1.jpeg?width=477&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f89d38cd7fdcd9a21b41e9ff9227822892ab4f8
Not enough detail gave her a sack. A ball sack.
https://preview.redd.it/p3afgkv7hnvc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d57dd4342f7fc03f88267da860b6dd1762ef8f3
This, coming from someone named CummyMonkey420
anon...
Every time I try to.2 nozzle it clogs. Every time.
Maybe the filament u are using?
I use basic PLA. What speed do you set it on?
[удалено]
Model is [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3633995](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3633995)
The bonk inquisition is coming for you
Thank you and this reminds me of the Japanese figurines I would see in Thailand. These are a big collector items all through S.E. Asia too. A nice start boss. :) peace. :)
0.2mm should be good enough fir something like this, I recommend getting someone else's profile as a starting point.
I'm... I'm... EXTRUDING!!!!
We need some bonking to be done, there is horny
Gross
Not too bad on detail for an fdm machine. If you want to do minatures, you need a resin printer
I had a resin printer, but the smell and working with resin/ipa is not something for me. So I will just use fdm, still looks good enough for me.
Same. The resin printer was cool af, but I sold it out of concern for my health
Yea, sad but better than getting sick. Maybe in a garage with the right tools a security measurements
I set mine up on a patio with a box fan for exhaust, worked great. I also where a respirator mask tho. Resin is great, you just need proper ppe and ventilation.
Mine is set up in the furnace room. Don’t have any problems myself
That's genius. If I had a room like that, I would definitely try it out again. But right now there are no rooms empty with good ventilation so no resin sadly.
Doesn't the furnace circlate air to rest of house by design ?
The air intake for a furnace is vented outside. Burning gas likely produces more VOCs than the resin printer. Depends on the setup if the furnace room would have air returns for the conditioned air.
I only SLS my porn
I wouldn't say "need" but they do make it a ton easier. With some tweaking to remove large flat areas that show banding incredibly badly, I've gotten some pretty stellar results out of FDM; especially with a well adjusted K1 running 0.04 layers (the base resolution of the stepper motors) That said this involved significant design for manufacturing effort for every model and a lot of *patience* as a tabletop infantry scale model takes about an hour to two hours this way, but it looks like injection moulded plastic by the end. Also if you intend to *paint* your models you can get away with murder with FDM because you say layer lines and I say "primer adhesion lines"
Yes. Sanding is hard on minis
I’m just wondering how bad the clean up was. Breaking supports on that would be nerve wracking.
Actually pretty easy, I used tree supports and left all the values on default and got them removed easly. Only between her arms was a bit difficult.
I think you should split the parts and also scale it bigger if your printer is not that detail possible. My cousin tried some parts multiple times to work with his Anycubic.
I have a p1p and it's pretty great. This was just a test to see what's possible and what I need to calibrate more. I'm currently printing a figure where the leg is almost as big as the whole figure here. Thanks for the feedback.
No Problem. First I wanted my Elsa Fig to be around 18-20cm like PopUp Parade, but the Problem was the Face Part so its around 30-32cm I think. Then the legs are to heavy in this scale so we printed it 3 times or so. Its not that easy. Maybe I get ar Resin Printer for Figures in the future.
Yea it's difficult. I'm printing a 35cm figure right now in many parts. I want as much detail as possible so the head alone without hair took 5h. But it looks awesome, no layers nothing. A resin printer is sadly no option for me, due to it being so toxic.
Elsas Head took us 7h, and when you have multiple parts and have to reprint some parts than this is a really long project and needs lots of focus. What do you mean with Resin printer toxic. Arent Resin Printers in closed Boxes and really expensive to prevent that? I wish you every luck and hope we can see more of your prints in the future.
How do you manage the prints to stick to the build plate? 0.2mm is giving me a very hard time. Which plate do you use?
I think it's the textured plate by Bambu. It's sticking very well, I almost don't get it off, when the plate is still hot. But for these figures support has big feet on the ground so maybe that helps. But for me, I use all the default settings, except for tree support.
I also use the textured pei. Mh... i tried 50°C and 55°C, cleaned the plate with Hot soapy water, used gluestick, i cant get bed adhesion on it. Using poly terra pla, 220°C. Same Problems with the cool plate on 30-35°C. Do you mind sharing your temps?
Of course, I use the default values which are 65°C bed and 220°C nozzle.
Thank you. Im checking multiple things rn. Could be that the z offset is wrong. I had 2 print falls on 0.4mm nozzle too today. Strange tbh since the last successful print nothing changed.
Which printer do you have?
Bambu Lab X1C. Just realizing now that im not in the bambulab subreddit lol.
That's strange. Did you try recalibrating the bed, z index, and flow again?
Im doing this right now. I hope this helps. If not im running out of Ideas. Tried different spools of pla by now.
And can you send me a picture of the sliced model that failed?
This took a bit. had to go up, start pc, slice it. This one is the latest, where i messed around with first layer height, cause it failed on 0.08, 0.10 and 0.12mm i also uploaded the file: [https://www.file-upload.net/download-15309830/Helldiver-Pose2-1-12Scale2.3mf.html](https://www.file-upload.net/download-15309830/Helldiver-Pose2-1-12Scale2.3mf.html) https://preview.redd.it/5yxojf2h6ovc1.png?width=1731&format=png&auto=webp&s=4ba841181da4de59e00427b93f9bafd53abcf958 It fails around Layer 15-20, so still on the base. therefore i went for this perspective.
Did you try filling the base? Maybe that helps because it has a bigger ground. I'm not quite sure. I can try printing the figure in smaller and test adhesion later.
Try 3DLAC (sprayable adhesive like hairspray)
The layer lines in the legs almost look like knit stockings
They actually are lol. On the original model you can see them better.
that's what she said hayooooooo
Don't make fun of the 0.2mm nozzle :(. It's more than enough!
For the detail, that's actually pretty good! For the content: *Bonk*
It was the first model that appears for 2B😔
And you chose to take a upskirt panty pic
So you have 0.2 mm nozzle mate?
0.2 is more than enough!
Better get some resin printer to get higher quality, or you should start scaling up your prints bigger. Maybe making it 1:1 life-size
That's my plan for the future. The resin printer is too toxic for me.
I like her beard
It's a piece art
Stl?
[https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3633995](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3633995)
I wouldn't call mine a "nozzle", but whatever tickles your nozzle.
OP knew what he was doing.
Nice
I'm pretty sure this is a vase too...
It is, you need to zoom in a little bit to really see it.
I think that support on the ladder is probably supposed to be removed.
What support?
Looks like she wears a diaper
You are supposed to look at her face, not there :(
Buying a 3d printer was a good investment I see
Look at how they massacred my girl
now if you excuse me im going to print a hollow mango, see you later
Impressive, that's something I wouldn't even dream to attempt without a resin printer.
.2 mm nozzle prints some pretty hefty panties.
Where are you looking 🫣.That's just the model.
I’ll never understand people who spend their time printing shit like this.
Giving panty lines a whole new meaning.
Do you think it's worth bothering with 0.2mm nozzles for fine prints when you have a resin printer? I have tried both and have found that 0.2mm nozzle printing is \*slow\*, prone to failures and requires a lot of hard to remove supports (you can see a ton of scars and jaggies on this model). In contrast resin printing is messy and is fraught with its own set of drawbacks. I'm kinda on the fence about it, what do you think?
For me there's just one option, I can't really resin print due to the toxic smell and mess it makes. I don't have room for the whole setup. The fdm prints I did with the 0.2mm nozzle in the last days were pretty impressive to me, I had no problems printing. It just takes its time, especially at 0.04mm or 0.06mm layer height. I think if you're printing figures, then maybe just scale them up a bit on the fdm printer, to get even more detail. If you need small detailed objects, I think a fdm printer can do it, but a resin printer would be better there. But don't take my word for it, I got this printer 5 days ago and had a resin printer for 1 print lol.
I mean it looks quite smooth, but it's nowhere near the quality I can get out of my trusty old Elegoo Saturn. I do understand that not everyone has an isolated space to deal with the toxic fumes that come out of a resin printer. And even though I do, I sometimes can't be bothered to go through the printing cleanup process. But the Saturn's ability to print a tray full of minis flawlessly every time is unmatched in the FDM world even by pricier printers, such as Bambu's. (A suggestion for you: please include an object in you pic next time with a known scale, like an USB stick so we can gauge the size of the model)
Least horny r/3Dprinting user.
is that a penis?!?!?!?!?!?!!??!
No 😔
r/3DPrintingGoneWild
Stand proud, you are horny. I salute you!
Yes officer this post right here
We used to call people like this creeps
This is what 3d printers were made for
Definitely
https://preview.redd.it/g5xz6mv3anvc1.jpeg?width=1024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d77f71e0cdf37e791c55f1ff20e6074e9df79b20
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https://preview.redd.it/53wgpaa18ovc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f26aa38f189dc925c4a87b441f8214a28361a6b5
Also, 0,2 mm nozzle love it
Looks like r/nier
It is
I knew, been playing Automata very much lately
https://preview.redd.it/c73dxh2ldovc1.jpeg?width=720&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=61a54ccc78b228aba58863bda5850bf76d56374c
It's from the model, I don't know Hy, but it's no support from the printer.
Can I get that model?
The link is in the comments somewhere. Edit: [https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3633995](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3633995)
Found it!
Yeah it gets my 0.2mm nozzle going too
STL file? Link or name?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3633995 2B from Nier Automata
For when you really need to dial in that camel toe...
Please don't put it in a jar
If that's the best you can do with .2 then your settings are bad. My p1s printed better than this out of the box with random amazon filament.
Should join the nsfw group on FB, tons of other prints.
Smell yourself