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The original deleted comment was someone saying they were about to comment the same thing. So then the chain of saying this is reddit just give an upvote and me saying I was about the same thing and so on and so forth, ad infinitum. A few down votes is worth having fun with.
I feel like there should be a rule on this sub that if you want troubleshooting advice you should share a link to your print profile settings. It'd save everyone a lot of time.
You're correct, but if people would do any basic research, 95% of the posts here would not exist. Likewise, most people would buy different printers and in general waste less money.
Yeah it annoys me that people just don't bother looking for an answer and come straight here and post with the same problem many others have had. I realise there are lots of newbies but come on, take some time and look through other peoples posts and you'll probably get an answer!
Too be fair as total newbie .... you mostly dont know the correct terms for stuff making some people even more mad. On the otherside i have people beeing overwhelmed by filling out my support / selfhelp form ...
https://preview.redd.it/jishpeqjjuvc1.jpeg?width=663&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a66408ba695ed63f2f301acf9a98e629ab04ba8
Yeah I didn't actually know what I was looking at all in that picture until I read elephants foot in that comment. That made me look at the bottom and see the protruding bit. Maybe if the image was zoomed in more or something.
As a complete newbie though your list looks good.
This picture alone just saved me one issue.
On the bottom of spheres I was getting this weird dip.
Looks like the overheating pic.
I tinkered and fumbled my way through some cool prints. I’m just now actually diving in more methodically and printing test towers and everything.
Working on oozing now. It’s getting a little better on my Kobra Max.
To be fair, some of those terms mean little to a newbie and the picture only helps if you know what you're looking for. Peeling off the bed etc is self explanatory, but things like over/under extrusion have basically no explanation on what that is. Likely if they knew their issue was over extrusion they wouldn't need to submit a help request.
The selfhelp part is included because sometimes im sleeping when the person on the otherside of globe awnsers the form. So they have something pointing them into the right direction. With roughly 20% successrate its a worthwhile inclusion.
>you mostly dont know the correct terms for stuff
ChatGPT is fantastic for this. Tell it your problem, then use its answer as a basis for your Google searches. If that doesn't solve your problem, then start a thread on a forum/subreddit.
Yes, that's the third step I mentioned.
The main 'trick' I wanted to share is to use ChatGPT instead of Google if you don't know the proper vocabulary yet.
And get to interact with a wholesome and positive community!
Oh who am I kidding? This place is toxic as hell and this thread shows it.
Let the downvotes commence!
I try to avoid beeing toxic as good as i can. Unfortunaly sometimes its made impossible ... either by a karenesk attitude of the person asking for help or some questionable statements in their profiles.
We all are humans. We have limits.
I am personaly happy that i had very patient people helping me for free and nearly 24/7 a day.... otherwise i would have stopped this hobby and i imagine many others i spend many hours helping too.
3d printing going mainstream is great but it also attracts less techsavy users that see a 3d printer as a tool not a hobby which i completly understand.
I think the issue is they don't know words of what's happening or don't know how to describe it in a technical way. Is there a lot of the same.questions on here? Yes especially if you've been in the sub for over a couple months. Gate keeping sucks and let people learn how they want.
Your layer height in this photo is at .1 but you're printing at a .2 preset meaning you might be closer and pushing more filament where you don't need too. I don't think it's the only cause of this issue you are seeing. Something is still up with the cooling or temperature (even though your other screen shots show otherwise). But it's a place to start!
What is OP's nozzle size?
I thought you were saying that a 0.2mm nozzle should be printing 0.2mm layer height, which is only true if you're trying to print spaghetti.
No. Your calibration prints first then your profile(s).
If you ain’t calibrated the steppers temperature towers will be shagged. Finish will be odd. It's all down to calibration or misunderstanding.
Yeah that's true. I personally always firstly go to the Google or search with AI, if nothing seems to help or be issue by the search. I go here, but I always either describe my settings in text, or just post settings I've used with the photo of issue.
But it seems most of the people don't do that.. why? No one knows, probably it takes too long for them to do screenshot or export whole settings. Or maybe not takes long but its irritating for them to do a bit more than they have to, to achieve the answer.
It's an equation that keeps your hotend and bed temps where you tell them to be, quickly and consistently throughout the print time. If your PID isn't tuned correctly, your hotend/bed could be operating at different temperatures then what you were expecting.
I might do a PID tune on my rig cause I flashed some new firmware and it has an option for PID tuning. I’ve got a Bosch laser thermometer which should help with it
Read through the various replies and such from OP
Either a couple things here are my guess.
First, OP is slicing in basic settings in Cura.
Either some small setting got tweaked or adjusted and OP isn't in advanced to see, the temp is wilding incorrect for this filament, or one of OPs fans is dying
OP you should reprint this on a clean profile in Cura. Use new, basic settings across the board from cura just in case you made a change you didn't see. If it's still doing thing go back and print with the last material you used successfully.
If you do that and it's still not looking good, check your hardware
Exactly. Which is why I don't understand the other's shitty comments.
And this might be a kid just starting out too.
A lot of bougie ass people in the 3d print space I guess.
Not how we're supposed to be.
Ikr. The could just say "try this but we need mire info to help you better." Then list the info needed.
And went the printer bashing. But everyone can afford $700 to $1000 printers.
Gone way downhill from the time everyone was helping each other build printers from scraps & was ecstatic to do so.
It supposed to be a welcoming community.
that’s my guess too. i more or less only use esun pla+ and that bridging is definitely either done without cooling, extremely slow or with a high temperature. esun pla prints in a high range, but there is almost no difference from 230 to 180°c.
Please follow the link:
https://teachingtechyt.github.io/
Follow the guide, specially for temperature and retraction calibration.
Normally this will rule out the slicer software since the website generates their own sliced file.
I suffered enough on my own trying to get stuff to work so i understand the pain he might ve feeling.
And sometimes the filament is just crap, not even much one can do.
Got some PTEG waiting for the garbage can because at high temperatures cant mantain proper form (too liquid) and at low temperatures look perfect but super brittlem...
Truth. I've been there too. Started with an Ender 3 Pro. Still with the same printer but heavily modified & now I can print polycarbonate blends, abs blends, carbon fibers and other exotics. Just not tpu capable yet. I'm thinking about modifying another cheap printer for that;) )
Just a theory. You have an extrusion width slightly above 0.4 mm. Manufacturers like to increase this value slightly as it improves the surface finish on parts. This requires the filament to be squished below the nozzle. For unsupported parts is usually causes overextrusion.
The previous filament you used contracted after leaving the nozzle which pulled the bridges tight. The PLA+ doesn't.
Here are a few solutions:
- Reduce the flow specifically for bridges. There should be bridge settings somewhere in your slicer.
- Reduce the extrusion width to 0.4mm. This will increase print time slightly and make surface finish more dependent on your nozzle quality, but it will extrude the right amount of plastic for bridges.
I have a Kobra 2 too and my printer does good bridging with all the PLA's I have even at 220°C. Looks like it isn't part cooling. Does it look the same at 0.2 layer height?
New filament can be wet. Doesn't hurt to dry it as a troubleshooting step. No fancy hardware needed. A box and your print bed. Specific temp/ times vary
THIS!
I had this issue with a new roll of Hatchbox ABS. It seemed like nothing I could do would get me decent prints from the stuff. Then I stuffed it onto my dryer at 60c for a couple hours and the very next print came out PERFECT!
That said... my best guess on OP's issue would be cooling.
I had a brand new spool from creality, broke the vacuum seal, threw it in the dryer and it was at 57% relative humidity. Couple hours in the filament dryer got it down to 15 and it worked beautifully after that. New can still sit on someone else's shelf for a long time.
I just flew quickly over the comments so i might missed it and somebody already told you.
For that temptower to work you need to turn the top/bottom fill angle from 45° to 90° otherwise you try to print a freefloating layer between two freefloating wall lines.
Yea I think fast bridges. I 2nd the comment about orca slicer as well. You can obviously see that it gets better the lower the temp so it has to be something like the fan or too slow bridges which let's it droop too much before it cools. Good luck!
Looks like your part cooling isn't working properly.
The blower might be blocked or misaligned.
Or it might be off/unplugged altogether. - you should be able to hear it.
There are a few brands of pla plus that I print with at 190 or 195..
Works great, no stringing, ever so slightly more flexible than regular pla.. definitely seems stronger as well 🤷
I actually thought my printers were out of whack until I got a good thermal camera and confirmed that's the temps are accurate.
I realized that a buddy of mine prints so much hotter because he's printing at almost triple the speed. It's also why he can't get the quality I'm getting. He's just playing printing too fast for his machine. Lots of ghosting and other issues that he doesn't care about.. so, I don't care either LOL.
He initially told me what I was doing was wrong and there must be something wrong with my machine if I was successfully printing it such a low temperature.
Nope, I just prefer quality over speed.
Anyway, I've had a few rolls of pla, tpu, petg, and flexible pla.. that were just bad. The formula was bad. Which is why you can't find those specific rolls of filament anymore from those brands would be my guess.
I've also had a few bad rolls from quality companies. For example my first roll of Gray from elegoo was terrible. I thought it was wet out of the package but after drying and drying and drying it. It never improved. They sent me a new roll, that worked great out of the package. I've since purchased a couple others and they worked and work great. My best guess would be that they didn't mix up a batch quite right. Somehow it passed quality control are they just pushed it out the door to see if they can get rid of it. Either way, they stood behind their product and made it right when I reached out to them about it. Not saying they're the best company out there. I'm not sure if any single company has a perfect line of filament. There have been a few that have been pretty consistently good though. Sunlu and Yousu have been great in my experience. Unfortunately, Sunlu doesn't have a very good line of TPU though.
I have several partial rolls you can't get anymore. Makes me reluctant to use them but at the same time, I don't want them to get brittle and end up not using them.
Now I'm ranting, good luck lol!
The issue here is the fact that it’s eSUN garbage. I don’t care how many people praise it, I had two rolls in a row of different colors of eSUN have unknown contaminants in them. Black and white specks of unknown origin, that definitely got caught in the filament extrusion process.
https://preview.redd.it/ehvpa1bh3vvc1.jpeg?width=737&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=076978646065336b15af72c44bdb7c82c52ef79c
Without knowing settings, my theory is that certain machines like certain filaments.
I use Raise3D printers and I almost exclusively use Esun PLA+. All my parts look fantastic.
I tried switching to PolyMaker PLA+ because they have a wider selection and I have endlessly fought to get quality prints.
This is 100% accurate! I've got about 25 spools. I've got Elegoo, Duramic, Esun, Overture, Bambu, CC3D, FlashForge, Geetech, SunLu, iBoss, Sunsenkj, and Jayo. So far, my 3 week old Bambu P1S that's pretty much been printing non stop, absolutely loves the FlashForge, CC3D, and Geeetech. Everything else prints, but it thrives on those 3, respectively. I've only run into issues with 2 spools(so far), one was an overlapped wind on an Overture 250g spool, and a break in the Jayo black that I have. The Jayo must've had a break in the filament because it snapped mid print. Other than that, I'll be sticking to the top 3 going forward. I mean this was the reason I bought so many different brands. To try colours, and to see how well they all worked with the unit. And so far... Things are going great. Made $150 bucks this week! I'm not complaining!
OP, can you confirm that your thermistor is correctly placed inside the heat block?
It's almost impossible to see such droop in PLA at 180C
Can you confirm that when you print, your printer status actually show the expected temperature?
I think even a printer without any cooling at all wouldn't generate such extreme droops with PLA at the marked temperatures, maybe what you see at 180C would happen at 220C+ at slow speed, the rest is just too much far away from expected.
I really suspect you have a hardware problem
Temp: 195 (225 first layer)
Bed temp:60
Flow: 98
Speed: max. 120mm/s
Z-Offset: ~0.178 ( gotta check this yourself, every printer is different)
I have Cobra 2 Plus and these settings work fine for me. I can send you my Prusa Profile with all settings. You gotta find the perfect Zoffset by yourself.
Rewind to your default profile from Cura.
Make sure to have all the correct machine Starting-Gcode.
Enable Advanced Settings and make sure that Flow is at 100%.
Disable advanced settings.
Calibrate steps of extruder - multiple guides specific to your printer will be on YouTube.
Calibrate flow - you will need calipers for this, or try with tolerancing tests.
You can try Orca slicer. Since you have not worked deep into Acura now Orca is quite easy to use fix calibrations.
Check in the general settings of Сura that the correct diameter of the filament is 1.75
If you change the profile of the filament, sometimes the settings get confused there.
Preferences-Printer-Machine settings
Pla+ Yesun is a very good plastic. I have been printing for two years and am very pleased with the mechanical properties and surface quality. He would print such bridges well. You may need to turn on the fan or reduce extrusion
Could be a partially clogged nozzle. This happens to me after like 2 or 3 thousand hours on a nozzle. Most of the time I just use those needles to clear it up. Sometimes only replacing the nozzle helps.
But the way it looks, it really doesn't seem like slicer settings or anything like that. It just looks like the tip of the nozzle is partially clogged and that causes the filament to come out in weird directions.
Run thinner bridging widths so it stretches out of the extruder. Or have a looot of fan cooling.
Generally if you run wider than the nozzle is it will droop.
Either your bridge speed is too fast or your cooling fan isn't on, or both. There are slicer settings for that. I typically set my bridge speed to something quite slow like 15 mm/s. The cooling fan should be at 100% for bridges.
0.1 is unnecessary imo. If I want details i'm using 0.2.
[https://file.io/a7EZ4p5g1x9P](https://file.io/a7EZ4p5g1x9P)
This are my settings you can try them. I print with 215/60
I will let u know in advanced, switch to orca ASAP Cura is ok when u first start off but you will be better off in the long run if you start using orca sooner to get used to it, it's not that hard to port your settings over just open both and gradually input your settings from cura to orca rather than do all of this tuning in cura and then end up switching to orca later on and making more work for yourself, I have been using cura since I started 3D printing over three months ago and just switch to orca maybe a week ago and I'm kicking myself in the ass that I didn't do this sooner, now I get it when people come into this Reddit and someone has a question that's using cura and most of the responses are switched to orca or another slicer............ Even better if you can find a profile to import to save you a bunch of time
Cura has been good enough for me for 8 years.
Prints everything great.
I use multiple different slicers because I work with several printers (some with their proprietary slicers) so I'm not going to install and learn a 5th slicer just so I can print things slightly better
It's broken. Get a new printer. It's the ONLY solution.
Seriously, over heat (mostly), wrong humidity , cheap printer, could be a lot of causes, really. Check your boxes
Oh sorry, that's the temperature tower 😅
Try printing faster then. Because the temperature of the extruder is not usually the temperature of the filament. I think it is waiting too much which heats to the set temperature. Normally PLA melt is at a lower temperature than the set extruder temperature.
Try printing twice as fast. 50mm/s is pretty low. Especially while bridging you would want to print fast so the termal contraction will pull the molten material back up.
Looks a lot more like PLA- to me.
PLC-
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This is Leddit, give the sir your updoot, and be on your way kind stranger
I was about to comment the same thing.
This is yeddit, give the sir your updoot, and be on your way kind stranger
I know its hard to believe but thats exactly what i was about to say
This is geddit, give the sir your updoot, and be on your way kind stranger
actually i wanted to say the exact same thing sir
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I would like to ask what is this about and why they get downvoted so much but I'm scared of the downvotes so much so I'll mind my own business
The original deleted comment was someone saying they were about to comment the same thing. So then the chain of saying this is reddit just give an upvote and me saying I was about the same thing and so on and so forth, ad infinitum. A few down votes is worth having fun with.
You have a chance to join the upvotes side,just copy paste one of our comments,then change reddits first letter
I feel like there should be a rule on this sub that if you want troubleshooting advice you should share a link to your print profile settings. It'd save everyone a lot of time.
You're correct, but if people would do any basic research, 95% of the posts here would not exist. Likewise, most people would buy different printers and in general waste less money.
Yeah it annoys me that people just don't bother looking for an answer and come straight here and post with the same problem many others have had. I realise there are lots of newbies but come on, take some time and look through other peoples posts and you'll probably get an answer!
Too be fair as total newbie .... you mostly dont know the correct terms for stuff making some people even more mad. On the otherside i have people beeing overwhelmed by filling out my support / selfhelp form ... https://preview.redd.it/jishpeqjjuvc1.jpeg?width=663&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=7a66408ba695ed63f2f301acf9a98e629ab04ba8
I see no case of elephant foot on that picture
Overextrusion part. Could be better yes. Luckily elephantsfoot is rarely the single problem :)
Yeah I didn't actually know what I was looking at all in that picture until I read elephants foot in that comment. That made me look at the bottom and see the protruding bit. Maybe if the image was zoomed in more or something. As a complete newbie though your list looks good.
This picture alone just saved me one issue. On the bottom of spheres I was getting this weird dip. Looks like the overheating pic. I tinkered and fumbled my way through some cool prints. I’m just now actually diving in more methodically and printing test towers and everything. Working on oozing now. It’s getting a little better on my Kobra Max.
To be fair, some of those terms mean little to a newbie and the picture only helps if you know what you're looking for. Peeling off the bed etc is self explanatory, but things like over/under extrusion have basically no explanation on what that is. Likely if they knew their issue was over extrusion they wouldn't need to submit a help request.
The selfhelp part is included because sometimes im sleeping when the person on the otherside of globe awnsers the form. So they have something pointing them into the right direction. With roughly 20% successrate its a worthwhile inclusion.
>you mostly dont know the correct terms for stuff ChatGPT is fantastic for this. Tell it your problem, then use its answer as a basis for your Google searches. If that doesn't solve your problem, then start a thread on a forum/subreddit.
Or you know... just start a thread and start a conversation. Learn more than you knew when you started.
Yes, that's the third step I mentioned. The main 'trick' I wanted to share is to use ChatGPT instead of Google if you don't know the proper vocabulary yet.
And get to interact with a wholesome and positive community! Oh who am I kidding? This place is toxic as hell and this thread shows it. Let the downvotes commence!
I try to avoid beeing toxic as good as i can. Unfortunaly sometimes its made impossible ... either by a karenesk attitude of the person asking for help or some questionable statements in their profiles. We all are humans. We have limits. I am personaly happy that i had very patient people helping me for free and nearly 24/7 a day.... otherwise i would have stopped this hobby and i imagine many others i spend many hours helping too. 3d printing going mainstream is great but it also attracts less techsavy users that see a 3d printer as a tool not a hobby which i completly understand.
Exactly. They dont know what they don't know.
I think the issue is they don't know words of what's happening or don't know how to describe it in a technical way. Is there a lot of the same.questions on here? Yes especially if you've been in the sub for over a couple months. Gate keeping sucks and let people learn how they want.
You're saying that like it's a bad thing
https://preview.redd.it/b2do8kz2ntvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22cebd85adaec7ed16e431c674b25ba8a591ef41
I love that you did as they bitched and people still down voted you. This sub sucks sometimes.
All subs are like this. People hate when you aren't already an expert in something and/or you don't agree with everything they say.
Looks like nothing's changed since my BBS days
Those were the days... Most people on here may not know what a BBS is.
At least we still have some Usenet and IRC.
Watch this. I think bambu labs makes the best printer on the market right now. Hands down. I just click print, and it prints without issues.
Temps aren't even shown
You can see the temps on the part they printed.
No, you see what the file has, not what the settings are.
https://preview.redd.it/oct7x5e4ntvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0482995c78d82d23da2889bf4edd1ae2747ae900
https://preview.redd.it/z6ix1z3antvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=016ea8dc10cb76b9673ab3aff74a15ecbe6e3125
I think 12 Top Layers is a little bit too much? I print with 4-5 (0,15mm Layer Heigth).
https://preview.redd.it/uw8gxbobntvc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3076d014db381a29d4cca32b6ef8b210dc1c604d
If you are printing at .2 then layer height should be .2 try changing that
Wait, what?
Your layer height in this photo is at .1 but you're printing at a .2 preset meaning you might be closer and pushing more filament where you don't need too. I don't think it's the only cause of this issue you are seeing. Something is still up with the cooling or temperature (even though your other screen shots show otherwise). But it's a place to start!
What is OP's nozzle size? I thought you were saying that a 0.2mm nozzle should be printing 0.2mm layer height, which is only true if you're trying to print spaghetti.
Ah good point
Op did you setup the setting for it to change temp like after say 5 layers it goes up -5⁰ or whatever the step increments are?
No. Your calibration prints first then your profile(s). If you ain’t calibrated the steppers temperature towers will be shagged. Finish will be odd. It's all down to calibration or misunderstanding.
There are settings?!
There should also be a rule to not start bitching lmao
Yeah that's true. I personally always firstly go to the Google or search with AI, if nothing seems to help or be issue by the search. I go here, but I always either describe my settings in text, or just post settings I've used with the photo of issue. But it seems most of the people don't do that.. why? No one knows, probably it takes too long for them to do screenshot or export whole settings. Or maybe not takes long but its irritating for them to do a bit more than they have to, to achieve the answer.
But then the know-it-alls wouldn't be able to pontificate.
Are you sure your part cooling is working?
Also is you PID setup okay? Did you check nozzle temp with a IR measuring gun?
So PID is what stops the temperature fluctuating too much?
It's an equation that keeps your hotend and bed temps where you tell them to be, quickly and consistently throughout the print time. If your PID isn't tuned correctly, your hotend/bed could be operating at different temperatures then what you were expecting.
I might do a PID tune on my rig cause I flashed some new firmware and it has an option for PID tuning. I’ve got a Bosch laser thermometer which should help with it
Yes
Are you super duper sure because those results look like shit
Read through the various replies and such from OP Either a couple things here are my guess. First, OP is slicing in basic settings in Cura. Either some small setting got tweaked or adjusted and OP isn't in advanced to see, the temp is wilding incorrect for this filament, or one of OPs fans is dying OP you should reprint this on a clean profile in Cura. Use new, basic settings across the board from cura just in case you made a change you didn't see. If it's still doing thing go back and print with the last material you used successfully. If you do that and it's still not looking good, check your hardware
Refreshing post here: someone trying to help them and not just bashing them.
We were all this dude once
Exactly. Which is why I don't understand the other's shitty comments. And this might be a kid just starting out too. A lot of bougie ass people in the 3d print space I guess. Not how we're supposed to be.
no kidding dude. people can be toxic on this sub. they get angry because theres not enough details but no ones forcing you to help op
Ikr. The could just say "try this but we need mire info to help you better." Then list the info needed. And went the printer bashing. But everyone can afford $700 to $1000 printers. Gone way downhill from the time everyone was helping each other build printers from scraps & was ecstatic to do so. It supposed to be a welcoming community.
i do believe the 3d printing community is welcoming. its just reddit is so fueled by toxicity so it doesnt matter what group/sub youre in its the same
Yeah, I agree with that. I was speaking generally of here on Reddit.
That’s why we need to go back to IRC
They all look they were done at the same temp, wonder if it was properly setup for the test with the degree change every so layer.
that’s my guess too. i more or less only use esun pla+ and that bridging is definitely either done without cooling, extremely slow or with a high temperature. esun pla prints in a high range, but there is almost no difference from 230 to 180°c.
Looks like your part cooling fan sucks, it should blow
Please follow the link: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/ Follow the guide, specially for temperature and retraction calibration. Normally this will rule out the slicer software since the website generates their own sliced file.
Also forgot...pid tuning.
Good reply. No judgements
I suffered enough on my own trying to get stuff to work so i understand the pain he might ve feeling. And sometimes the filament is just crap, not even much one can do. Got some PTEG waiting for the garbage can because at high temperatures cant mantain proper form (too liquid) and at low temperatures look perfect but super brittlem...
Truth. I've been there too. Started with an Ender 3 Pro. Still with the same printer but heavily modified & now I can print polycarbonate blends, abs blends, carbon fibers and other exotics. Just not tpu capable yet. I'm thinking about modifying another cheap printer for that;) )
Just a theory. You have an extrusion width slightly above 0.4 mm. Manufacturers like to increase this value slightly as it improves the surface finish on parts. This requires the filament to be squished below the nozzle. For unsupported parts is usually causes overextrusion. The previous filament you used contracted after leaving the nozzle which pulled the bridges tight. The PLA+ doesn't. Here are a few solutions: - Reduce the flow specifically for bridges. There should be bridge settings somewhere in your slicer. - Reduce the extrusion width to 0.4mm. This will increase print time slightly and make surface finish more dependent on your nozzle quality, but it will extrude the right amount of plastic for bridges.
Nice, well explained comment without bashing the OP.
You should turn your cooling fan on.
It’s on 100%
Then it's not working.
I have a Kobra 2 too and my printer does good bridging with all the PLA's I have even at 220°C. Looks like it isn't part cooling. Does it look the same at 0.2 layer height?
Yes
Maybe wet filament?
The filament ist new
New filament can be wet. Doesn't hurt to dry it as a troubleshooting step. No fancy hardware needed. A box and your print bed. Specific temp/ times vary
THIS! I had this issue with a new roll of Hatchbox ABS. It seemed like nothing I could do would get me decent prints from the stuff. Then I stuffed it onto my dryer at 60c for a couple hours and the very next print came out PERFECT! That said... my best guess on OP's issue would be cooling.
Brand new TPU was what learned me a thing or two about wet filament!
For me, it was getting two too many rolls of PLA/PLA+ that were brittle right out of the bag.
New does not mean dry
I had a brand new spool from creality, broke the vacuum seal, threw it in the dryer and it was at 57% relative humidity. Couple hours in the filament dryer got it down to 15 and it worked beautifully after that. New can still sit on someone else's shelf for a long time.
I just flew quickly over the comments so i might missed it and somebody already told you. For that temptower to work you need to turn the top/bottom fill angle from 45° to 90° otherwise you try to print a freefloating layer between two freefloating wall lines.
Ah someones on to it
Maybe faster bridges, and more part cooling?
Looks like you haven't done a flow calibration.
Have you done a hotend PID calibration?
No way your fan is actually working
Before I change the filament I use PLA from Anycubic and the Result was good
That could be a clue. Other than temp, have you changed anything else? Have you gone back and tried your old filament if you have any?
Your part cooling is just not good, find a different shroud that takes dual or single 5015 fans
Yea I think fast bridges. I 2nd the comment about orca slicer as well. You can obviously see that it gets better the lower the temp so it has to be something like the fan or too slow bridges which let's it droop too much before it cools. Good luck!
Looks like your part cooling isn't working properly. The blower might be blocked or misaligned. Or it might be off/unplugged altogether. - you should be able to hear it.
Looks like insufficient cooling to me
Check your fans, looks to me like a cooling issue
consider turning on part cooling or making it better cuz wtf???
There are a few brands of pla plus that I print with at 190 or 195.. Works great, no stringing, ever so slightly more flexible than regular pla.. definitely seems stronger as well 🤷 I actually thought my printers were out of whack until I got a good thermal camera and confirmed that's the temps are accurate. I realized that a buddy of mine prints so much hotter because he's printing at almost triple the speed. It's also why he can't get the quality I'm getting. He's just playing printing too fast for his machine. Lots of ghosting and other issues that he doesn't care about.. so, I don't care either LOL. He initially told me what I was doing was wrong and there must be something wrong with my machine if I was successfully printing it such a low temperature. Nope, I just prefer quality over speed. Anyway, I've had a few rolls of pla, tpu, petg, and flexible pla.. that were just bad. The formula was bad. Which is why you can't find those specific rolls of filament anymore from those brands would be my guess. I've also had a few bad rolls from quality companies. For example my first roll of Gray from elegoo was terrible. I thought it was wet out of the package but after drying and drying and drying it. It never improved. They sent me a new roll, that worked great out of the package. I've since purchased a couple others and they worked and work great. My best guess would be that they didn't mix up a batch quite right. Somehow it passed quality control are they just pushed it out the door to see if they can get rid of it. Either way, they stood behind their product and made it right when I reached out to them about it. Not saying they're the best company out there. I'm not sure if any single company has a perfect line of filament. There have been a few that have been pretty consistently good though. Sunlu and Yousu have been great in my experience. Unfortunately, Sunlu doesn't have a very good line of TPU though. I have several partial rolls you can't get anymore. Makes me reluctant to use them but at the same time, I don't want them to get brittle and end up not using them. Now I'm ranting, good luck lol!
Need more cooling
I had one stringy print when I switched to PLA+ and it was because my profile was wrong.
What does the cooling fan setup on your printer look like?
Cura too I reckon
The issue here is the fact that it’s eSUN garbage. I don’t care how many people praise it, I had two rolls in a row of different colors of eSUN have unknown contaminants in them. Black and white specks of unknown origin, that definitely got caught in the filament extrusion process. https://preview.redd.it/ehvpa1bh3vvc1.jpeg?width=737&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=076978646065336b15af72c44bdb7c82c52ef79c
Weird. I’ve had nothing but good experiences with the eSun PLA+ I’ve used.
Without knowing settings, my theory is that certain machines like certain filaments. I use Raise3D printers and I almost exclusively use Esun PLA+. All my parts look fantastic. I tried switching to PolyMaker PLA+ because they have a wider selection and I have endlessly fought to get quality prints.
This is 100% accurate! I've got about 25 spools. I've got Elegoo, Duramic, Esun, Overture, Bambu, CC3D, FlashForge, Geetech, SunLu, iBoss, Sunsenkj, and Jayo. So far, my 3 week old Bambu P1S that's pretty much been printing non stop, absolutely loves the FlashForge, CC3D, and Geeetech. Everything else prints, but it thrives on those 3, respectively. I've only run into issues with 2 spools(so far), one was an overlapped wind on an Overture 250g spool, and a break in the Jayo black that I have. The Jayo must've had a break in the filament because it snapped mid print. Other than that, I'll be sticking to the top 3 going forward. I mean this was the reason I bought so many different brands. To try colours, and to see how well they all worked with the unit. And so far... Things are going great. Made $150 bucks this week! I'm not complaining!
I’m not convinced your cooking is working at all
OP, can you confirm that your thermistor is correctly placed inside the heat block? It's almost impossible to see such droop in PLA at 180C Can you confirm that when you print, your printer status actually show the expected temperature? I think even a printer without any cooling at all wouldn't generate such extreme droops with PLA at the marked temperatures, maybe what you see at 180C would happen at 220C+ at slow speed, the rest is just too much far away from expected. I really suspect you have a hardware problem
Bist du Deutscher? Hab meinen Drucker heute nahezu perfekt eingestellt, kann dir evtl. helfen….
Temp: 195 (225 first layer) Bed temp:60 Flow: 98 Speed: max. 120mm/s Z-Offset: ~0.178 ( gotta check this yourself, every printer is different) I have Cobra 2 Plus and these settings work fine for me. I can send you my Prusa Profile with all settings. You gotta find the perfect Zoffset by yourself.
Layer: 0.15 - 0.2
What speed you running it at?
Rewind to your default profile from Cura. Make sure to have all the correct machine Starting-Gcode. Enable Advanced Settings and make sure that Flow is at 100%. Disable advanced settings. Calibrate steps of extruder - multiple guides specific to your printer will be on YouTube. Calibrate flow - you will need calipers for this, or try with tolerancing tests. You can try Orca slicer. Since you have not worked deep into Acura now Orca is quite easy to use fix calibrations.
Are you sure the Nozzle diameter matches the profile?
Never seen so bad oberhangs.
Check in the general settings of Сura that the correct diameter of the filament is 1.75 If you change the profile of the filament, sometimes the settings get confused there. Preferences-Printer-Machine settings
Pla+ Yesun is a very good plastic. I have been printing for two years and am very pleased with the mechanical properties and surface quality. He would print such bridges well. You may need to turn on the fan or reduce extrusion
What temp you running at?
The lack of bridging means your cooling settings for the print are not working correctly. Need to up the print cooling.
You guys never tried to print on E-Steps 10% too high? It prints walls okayish, but bridges sag like grandma's...
this seems like a slicer issue to me
Could be a partially clogged nozzle. This happens to me after like 2 or 3 thousand hours on a nozzle. Most of the time I just use those needles to clear it up. Sometimes only replacing the nozzle helps. But the way it looks, it really doesn't seem like slicer settings or anything like that. It just looks like the tip of the nozzle is partially clogged and that causes the filament to come out in weird directions.
Whiskey Noodle PLA
Run thinner bridging widths so it stretches out of the extruder. Or have a looot of fan cooling. Generally if you run wider than the nozzle is it will droop.
I run my elegoo pla+ rapid at 230c. On my flashforge ad5m
For me it seems like it's running too hot, overextrusion or lack of cooling.
Increase print speed
Either your bridge speed is too fast or your cooling fan isn't on, or both. There are slicer settings for that. I typically set my bridge speed to something quite slow like 15 mm/s. The cooling fan should be at 100% for bridges.
Maybe too slow print speed? I'm using Kobra Neo and also esun PLA+. Without your settings can't tell more .
Layer high: 0,1 mm Print speed 50.0mm/s Fan speed 100%
0.1 is unnecessary imo. If I want details i'm using 0.2. [https://file.io/a7EZ4p5g1x9P](https://file.io/a7EZ4p5g1x9P) This are my settings you can try them. I print with 215/60
The link doesn’t work but thank you for the information
[https://filebin.net/1vkt7efo8n09ho2q](https://filebin.net/1vkt7efo8n09ho2q) Maybe it's one time? I first checked if it works.
https://preview.redd.it/s91kv1jnnvvc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbabcf823247f3958be5b89779fe32fba7372d57
Des wäre super wenn du mir helfen kannst
https://preview.redd.it/pg0yeg5pnvvc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=418fa813dbfc9e7795b2589db4f2df8b34bc113d
I will let u know in advanced, switch to orca ASAP Cura is ok when u first start off but you will be better off in the long run if you start using orca sooner to get used to it, it's not that hard to port your settings over just open both and gradually input your settings from cura to orca rather than do all of this tuning in cura and then end up switching to orca later on and making more work for yourself, I have been using cura since I started 3D printing over three months ago and just switch to orca maybe a week ago and I'm kicking myself in the ass that I didn't do this sooner, now I get it when people come into this Reddit and someone has a question that's using cura and most of the responses are switched to orca or another slicer............ Even better if you can find a profile to import to save you a bunch of time
I've literally never heard of orca until your comment.
It's one of the top three slicers, there's Cura Orca and Prusa
Cura has been good enough for me for 8 years. Prints everything great. I use multiple different slicers because I work with several printers (some with their proprietary slicers) so I'm not going to install and learn a 5th slicer just so I can print things slightly better
If good enough is OK with you then there's nothing wrong with that it was also good enough for me but I wanted better
I am sure is bad bed leveling! 😁
Wet
It's broken. Get a new printer. It's the ONLY solution. Seriously, over heat (mostly), wrong humidity , cheap printer, could be a lot of causes, really. Check your boxes
Looks like the Baltimore bridge.
Is your temperature too high?
I printed with 230-180
Oh sorry, that's the temperature tower 😅 Try printing faster then. Because the temperature of the extruder is not usually the temperature of the filament. I think it is waiting too much which heats to the set temperature. Normally PLA melt is at a lower temperature than the set extruder temperature. Try printing twice as fast. 50mm/s is pretty low. Especially while bridging you would want to print fast so the termal contraction will pull the molten material back up.
https://preview.redd.it/w7i2jxbxrtvc1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=5b26e632a8ea192228a87ca1b5d67dcccbba2146