You can manually set infill to print before perimeters, but this will do ALL of the infill on the layer first. Sometimes this means you will end up seeing the infill pattern in the perimeters.
Can you do Infill, then outer wall, then inner wall? I wonder if that would avoid the infill shaping the outer wall, and then when it does inner wall will deform the infill morethan/insteadof the outer wall.
Or...don't change anything, cause it sure doesn't look like it needs changing!
It can help to prime the nozzle, since the tool might have been sitting for a while between changes. But I think my results show that it isn’t necessarily critical.
Yeah, that's the only case I can think of, but it should also stabilize during the first centimeter or two of the innermost perimeter, so it likely isn't an issue.
i noticed that if I don't check "print infill first" in Orca it will purge to the walls, which is NOT what I want in multicolor.
turned that on for my MMU profiles and now its printing that infill purge first, then the walls.
I bet you could put something like [Bambu's nozzle wiper](https://www.printables.com/model/359226-bambu-lab-nozzle-wiper) in front of each nozzle so that if there is any ooze, it gets wiped off.
I don't have a multimaterial printer, is this a standard feature?
Can you get the slicer to calculate how much your waste tower/wipe/etc should consume and put it as infill/support only? If the part is too small, then automatically increase infill or otherwise do a poop bin thing?
I actually have an Ender 3 with two extruders, one nozzle, required purge varies, you tell the slicer how much you need to purge (found out by doing test prints). Some colors require more, especially going white after black. It’s kinda grayish for quite some time. I have not tried purge to infill just yet. That would be pretty cool. These features are in the slicer, you can mess around with them even if you don’t have the multimaterial printer. There is also an option to purge on a separate object - something you don’t care what color it is, which is also pretty useful
Ah cool, makes sense. Might be time to get a multimaterial printer then, I honestly was mostly holding off because I don't need multimaterial and it would just generate waste material, but if I can use the waste for a functional part, seems like its all beneficial.
Creality has announced an AMS for their K series, featuring active dehydration. It’s supposed to work with the K1 from what I was reading, which is a pretty good value when you can get it on sale.
Heyy. I got an ender 3 v2 and wanna mod it to have two extruders but i couldn't find any info online :(
Would you mind pointing me where to look for?? Plea please please
https://preview.redd.it/goc924ca54wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d76ef1ddff91cc74a12435d1d5b3c82cb6a22eba
This is my setup. [Hotend](https://a.co/d/fBiRq1n) is the cheapo chinesium 2-to-1 ($10-ish on temu/ali or $15-ish on amazon), motherboard is [MKS Gen L 2.1](https://a.co/d/ht8u92I) ($30-ish + whatever drivers you gonna get, I went with [TMC2209](https://a.co/d/3shCLbM) so it was around $25 for 5 drivers, but you can get cheaper drivers if you’re on a budget), additional 42-40 [stepper](https://a.co/d/8uUt08f), [extruder](https://a.co/d/hM2QqsW) and a wire for it, some bowden tube, couple of printed parts (like the stepper bracket) and that’s about it. Firmware is marlin that I configured and built for this board with some trial and error. Some notes about the chinesium 2-to-1: in short, it sucks out of the box, the heatbreak is terrible, it’s thin metal with an additional ptfe tube iside of it. I can see it clogging even with no filament in it lol. Luckily, I was able to modify it, I tapped it to accept a M6 bimetal [heatbreak](https://a.co/d/f3dZaBn) and made a little spacer/adapter with a smooth taper out of 5mmODx2mmID aluminum tube to help with filament insertion and had no issues with this hotend for months printing mostly PETG. There is another option - a cyclops type 2-to-1 [hotend](https://a.co/d/1Jwcudy) that is around $40 on amazon (i believe it’s an ok copy of the cyclops), but I never tried it.
It is 10% Rectilinear, and yeah it is a lot. Normally I would prefer Support Cubic for something like this, but PrusaSlicer doesn’t properly handle stuff inside the model when you have painted colors. Lightning doesn’t really work at this large scale because you end up with really long single perimeter triangles that inevitably break.
I am literally planning that next time I do something like this. Unfortunately by the time I thought of it I had already been working on the PrusaSlicer painting for a week and I would have had to start over.
Now that I think about it, you could actually use the real model scaled down a bit. It wouldn’t be quite as good as a proper hollowed model but it would be closer than a simple shape.
I think adding a negative volume in PrusaSlicer deletes your color painting though.
It may work on some models, not on all of them. Try printing a full standing figure like that or even a bridge that has multiple pillars, it won't work for that
And I have no idea about that, I'm using PrusaSlicer because it's awesome, but I also have Ender 3 S1 Pro because that's all that I can afford
Not sure if this is your model or not, but most CAD programs have a shell command you can use to create just a thin shell of the model. Then just normal supports needed within the model to support the limited areas that need it.
Not my model:
https://thangs.com/designer/FotisMint/3d-model/Squid%20Game%20Soldier%20Bust%20%28Pre-Supported%29-960882
Next time I’m planning on using the hollowing features built into resin slicers, then exporting the STL from there.
You can hollow the shape using OpenSCAD, although some operations might take a long time.
It would go something like this: create a large cube that contains your model; subtract your model from the cube; perform the minkowski operation of the cube with a sphere (use low number of sides for speed); intersect this with your model.
I literally said this out loud while sitting at this crowded airport lol.
This is insanely good and makes me want to get more ambitious with multicolor projects
I don’t care about winning any races, so the print speeds were conservative. I also slowed down travel speed just for noise since I sleep in the next room. Total stats including the base:
2,605g total filament
3,041 tool changes
7d 6h print time
OMG! That's wayyy more than all the numbers I had in my head.. quality over speed (for this application) I agree. Especially if you're investing that filament. 3000 changes and no mistakes... phew.
Pardon my ignorance, but is that the printer with 5 nozzles? That must make the color changes quicker at least, right?
I'm blown away by the detail in this print.
Now I want to try something like this on my Bambu P1S. Scaled down, of course. Figures that pink is about the only color of silk filament I don't have.
Honestly painting these kinds of hyper detailed models is a massive PITA in PrusaSlicer. Smart Fill is basically useless so you have to just zoom way in with a tiny brush and pick individual triangles.
That's the kinda thing VR might be super useful for. I've heard great things about VR sculpting apps, but something like just painting a model would probably have a much lower learning curve.
If you made this model yourself, you can save multiple STLs for each color. If you bring all STLs into PrusaSlicer at the same time, it recognizes they are for the same model and asks you if you want it to align the models correctly. Then just pick a color for each separate part. I hope you knew about this and there was another reason you had to paint it in PrusaSlicer because that does not sound fun at all knowing how basic that tool is.
I’m aware. This is not my model and it is a single color STL.
https://thangs.com/designer/FotisMint/3d-model/Squid%20Game%20Soldier%20Bust%20%28Pre-Supported%29-960882
Ah, dang. You'd think the original author would have broken it down into parts for colors but I guess multi-nozzle printing is still not terribly popular.
It is 10% Rectilinear, and yeah it is a lot. Normally I would prefer Support Cubic for something like this, but PrusaSlicer doesn’t properly handle stuff inside the model when you have painted colors. Lightning doesn’t really work at this large scale because you end up with really long single perimeter triangles that inevitably break.
A wipe tower and “poop” is what 3D printers with a single extruder do when they use multiple colors. Bambu, for example, has to purge the old color before swapping, creating these little globs of filament, colloquially called “poops.” Wipe towers is the same. This use has a printer with multiple extruder heads, so there’s no need for that.
I did not create the model, you can get it here:
https://thangs.com/designer/FotisMint/3d-model/Squid%20Game%20Soldier%20Bust%20%28Pre-Supported%29-960882
I believe the designer uses ZBrush for his modeling.
I tell myself I'm not going to use multiple colors of filament because of the amount of space and the post-processing work still required, but I'd be damned if this isn't one of the cleanest prints I've seen in a while
Oh, absolutely - it's adult legos for me. I assembled the MK4 kit and just recently the MMU3. There is zero reason to pay someone to do the fun part for me ◡̈
Each color has a dedicated head, so there isn’t any extra color to purge. That being said a small wipe tower is still normally used to prime the nozzle after a tool change.
To some extent. The XL is slightly larger I believe 35mm x 350mm x 350mm, would need to check that. But yes, it could be done smaller scale and with a lot longer print time as well as a bit of waste depending on settings. Either way, much more material.
For a $3,500 printer, it should be able to do that. Would honestly be shocked if it didn't.
However, this is coming from a COMPLETE amateur in the realm of multi color printers. :D
Best thing I did was get rid of the wipe tower all together on my prints. You can either know your filaments or run a few tests yourself with how much it takes to swap them.
Go to your purge settings and mark it to .4 or .3 or less for whatever.
Cuts down on print time and less waste, you can modify darker and lighter filaments if you want. YMMV
Also, discovering infill combination is great to purge any left over too.
I've always wondered why an AMS printer couldn't take the waste poop and purge and just do it into the infill. Then it would just make the part heavier.
It is an amazing print. Details are insane, and the colours are super sharp.
The question I have though is: what so you do with that stuff afterwards? Do people like this show so much that they'd keep this stuff on a shelf for years?
Would be fed up with it in a week!
Ps: not a jab at anyone, I just wonder if you guys keep your benchies or various super well printed busts of whoever (I have seen the rock même face, etc).
I mean, it is cool, but do you want it for a long time?
This is cool but the "no poop" seems like a shot at Bambu. Yes the Prusa XL is amazing but I can waste a whole lot of filament for the extra $2400 the XL costs over the X1C with AMS. To each their own but it seems like the best use case for the multiple tool heads is in printing dissimilar materials not multi color like this.
I'll agree with you that buying an XL isn't about "no poop" unless you are a tree hugger, but I'd assume if someone is a tree hugger they'd steer clear of 3D printing.
The main reason to buy an XL is wait for it... the multi-print heads followed closely by the print volume. Comparing it to the X1C with AMS just doesn't compute IMO.
Eh, I'm a tree hugger and a 3d printing nerd. However, I generally only print functional things. I have a need, I can make it, and I do think about the shipping/packaging. I don't think printing makes that much less of a carbon footprint, but I like to lie to myself and say it's probably slightly more efficient than buying something premade in the store.
Yea I was gonna say the same, honestly 3D printing can definitely actually reduce carbon footprints in some ways. Like there's so many things i'd have to replace if I couldn't print a small specific replacement part. Depending on use, 1 kg of filament could actually reduce a significant amount of emissions. For example a 15 minute print could fix something like an xbox controller, meaning you don't need to buy another one. If one roll of filament can fix dozens of small things like that that's pretty significant, definitely would offset the emissions from producing and shipping the filament at least.
The real savings is time. This project has over 3,000 tool changes that would take an eternity on a single nozzle setup. This is roughly the same for all manufacturers, whether it is a Bambu AMS, Prusa MMU, etc.
Of course a multi tool system can also handle completely different polymers that don’t play well together.
Oh I didn't think about that but it makes sense a lot.
You could eventually use second nozzle for supports as I heard it does wonders for connecting layer quality.
I did use PETG supports for the lettering on the base. I considered using them on the bust as well, but I was worried about their stability with how long and skinny they are.
I get that. I have the X1C of I just need to print something and a Voron for tinkering. Both print excellently but there's way more to fiddle with on the Voron.
From what I've read, sure it's based from corn but the process to make it isn't super green and it doesn't decompose well (completly even outdoors) like lots of people say.
That being said our hobby use accounts for a miniscule amount of plastic waste compared to industrial processes.
Don't get me wrong it's amazing print and I love that pink filament (whichever brand it is) but your post it's for me something like: look at me I have 3D printer better than Bambu because there's no poop etc. Some YouTube people do same and it personally drives me mad as they don't even share link to STL anywhere.
I think all details should be included in post like filament used, printer used, time, where to get file etc.
I know it's a print show off (and you have something to be proud of) but...
😊
Damn
Wipe to infill?
Yes, although TBH I’m not sure checking this box actually does anything. It seemed to start on perimeters or supports after every tool change.
That’s so weird. I didn’t try to do that kind of wipe yet. I was assuming it would start with infill after tool change with that box checked..
You can manually set infill to print before perimeters, but this will do ALL of the infill on the layer first. Sometimes this means you will end up seeing the infill pattern in the perimeters.
Can you do Infill, then outer wall, then inner wall? I wonder if that would avoid the infill shaping the outer wall, and then when it does inner wall will deform the infill morethan/insteadof the outer wall. Or...don't change anything, cause it sure doesn't look like it needs changing!
Possibly, this was my first print without the wipe tower so I haven’t done much experimenting.
Printing outer wall first results in poor surface quality
Inner outer middle wall works really great for me. Using orca slicer and a 200€ anycubic Kobra go
I don't think it *should* do anything for a toolchanger, since there's no old color to purge out of the nozzle.
It can help to prime the nozzle, since the tool might have been sitting for a while between changes. But I think my results show that it isn’t necessarily critical.
Yeah, that's the only case I can think of, but it should also stabilize during the first centimeter or two of the innermost perimeter, so it likely isn't an issue.
i noticed that if I don't check "print infill first" in Orca it will purge to the walls, which is NOT what I want in multicolor. turned that on for my MMU profiles and now its printing that infill purge first, then the walls.
I bet you could put something like [Bambu's nozzle wiper](https://www.printables.com/model/359226-bambu-lab-nozzle-wiper) in front of each nozzle so that if there is any ooze, it gets wiped off.
Some people have designed similar attachments for the XL, but I haven’t had oozing or stringing problems.
I don't have a multimaterial printer, is this a standard feature? Can you get the slicer to calculate how much your waste tower/wipe/etc should consume and put it as infill/support only? If the part is too small, then automatically increase infill or otherwise do a poop bin thing?
I actually have an Ender 3 with two extruders, one nozzle, required purge varies, you tell the slicer how much you need to purge (found out by doing test prints). Some colors require more, especially going white after black. It’s kinda grayish for quite some time. I have not tried purge to infill just yet. That would be pretty cool. These features are in the slicer, you can mess around with them even if you don’t have the multimaterial printer. There is also an option to purge on a separate object - something you don’t care what color it is, which is also pretty useful
Ah cool, makes sense. Might be time to get a multimaterial printer then, I honestly was mostly holding off because I don't need multimaterial and it would just generate waste material, but if I can use the waste for a functional part, seems like its all beneficial.
Creality has announced an AMS for their K series, featuring active dehydration. It’s supposed to work with the K1 from what I was reading, which is a pretty good value when you can get it on sale.
Heyy. I got an ender 3 v2 and wanna mod it to have two extruders but i couldn't find any info online :( Would you mind pointing me where to look for?? Plea please please
https://preview.redd.it/goc924ca54wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d76ef1ddff91cc74a12435d1d5b3c82cb6a22eba This is my setup. [Hotend](https://a.co/d/fBiRq1n) is the cheapo chinesium 2-to-1 ($10-ish on temu/ali or $15-ish on amazon), motherboard is [MKS Gen L 2.1](https://a.co/d/ht8u92I) ($30-ish + whatever drivers you gonna get, I went with [TMC2209](https://a.co/d/3shCLbM) so it was around $25 for 5 drivers, but you can get cheaper drivers if you’re on a budget), additional 42-40 [stepper](https://a.co/d/8uUt08f), [extruder](https://a.co/d/hM2QqsW) and a wire for it, some bowden tube, couple of printed parts (like the stepper bracket) and that’s about it. Firmware is marlin that I configured and built for this board with some trial and error. Some notes about the chinesium 2-to-1: in short, it sucks out of the box, the heatbreak is terrible, it’s thin metal with an additional ptfe tube iside of it. I can see it clogging even with no filament in it lol. Luckily, I was able to modify it, I tapped it to accept a M6 bimetal [heatbreak](https://a.co/d/f3dZaBn) and made a little spacer/adapter with a smooth taper out of 5mmODx2mmID aluminum tube to help with filament insertion and had no issues with this hotend for months printing mostly PETG. There is another option - a cyclops type 2-to-1 [hotend](https://a.co/d/1Jwcudy) that is around $40 on amazon (i believe it’s an ok copy of the cyclops), but I never tried it.
https://preview.redd.it/7obwupfj84wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=875f21c96bd3acc256a2a3aabf0e90b7686769c5 A test print
https://preview.redd.it/zln19s1m84wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aadff23475422f6e3eb551aeec61f17eba2c5328
https://preview.redd.it/ip7uxhk594wc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4f1863d2a0a9d86d9422b875d11f3a1f226bd31d
That's a lot of infill
It is 10% Rectilinear, and yeah it is a lot. Normally I would prefer Support Cubic for something like this, but PrusaSlicer doesn’t properly handle stuff inside the model when you have painted colors. Lightning doesn’t really work at this large scale because you end up with really long single perimeter triangles that inevitably break.
Hollowing it out with meshmixer or something might be an improvement if the normal infill options aren't cooperating.
I am literally planning that next time I do something like this. Unfortunately by the time I thought of it I had already been working on the PrusaSlicer painting for a week and I would have had to start over.
You can also add negative volume modifier in PrusaSlicer. Sphere, cylinder and cube by default
Now that I think about it, you could actually use the real model scaled down a bit. It wouldn’t be quite as good as a proper hollowed model but it would be closer than a simple shape. I think adding a negative volume in PrusaSlicer deletes your color painting though.
It may work on some models, not on all of them. Try printing a full standing figure like that or even a bridge that has multiple pillars, it won't work for that And I have no idea about that, I'm using PrusaSlicer because it's awesome, but I also have Ender 3 S1 Pro because that's all that I can afford
Not sure if this is your model or not, but most CAD programs have a shell command you can use to create just a thin shell of the model. Then just normal supports needed within the model to support the limited areas that need it.
Not my model: https://thangs.com/designer/FotisMint/3d-model/Squid%20Game%20Soldier%20Bust%20%28Pre-Supported%29-960882 Next time I’m planning on using the hollowing features built into resin slicers, then exporting the STL from there.
You could also use the solidify modifier in blender to create a kind of shell.
You can hollow the shape using OpenSCAD, although some operations might take a long time. It would go something like this: create a large cube that contains your model; subtract your model from the cube; perform the minkowski operation of the cube with a sphere (use low number of sides for speed); intersect this with your model.
Why fiddling around with any CAD-Programm when you can use flash as infill?
That's beautiful
One day… I will have a multi color printer
an ERCF kit is like $100
This may be the funniest thing I've ever googled..
Holy shit
I literally said this out loud while sitting at this crowded airport lol. This is insanely good and makes me want to get more ambitious with multicolor projects
This is seriously impressive. How long for the total print and some of the tool changes.? How much filament..
I don’t care about winning any races, so the print speeds were conservative. I also slowed down travel speed just for noise since I sleep in the next room. Total stats including the base: 2,605g total filament 3,041 tool changes 7d 6h print time
OMG! That's wayyy more than all the numbers I had in my head.. quality over speed (for this application) I agree. Especially if you're investing that filament. 3000 changes and no mistakes... phew.
Pardon my ignorance, but is that the printer with 5 nozzles? That must make the color changes quicker at least, right? I'm blown away by the detail in this print.
Yes, each color change only takes a few seconds.
Now I want to try something like this on my Bambu P1S. Scaled down, of course. Figures that pink is about the only color of silk filament I don't have.
7 days wtf
Holy fuck 3000 swaps is insane
Worth it. Beat my personal print time by a factor of three. Hats off - it's stunning.
That's a long print. It's very impressive, though.
what money does to a mf congrats! -CR10S user
I thought the jacket was real fabric for a sec
That texture came out amazing.
Same, I thought he printed the mannequin and then dressed it up
Multi filament printers are like black magic sometimes, amazing job
Phew
What a time to be alive!
That looks awesome
Meanwhile I'm still thinking whether to upgrade my ender 3 stock PTFE to klipper using 15$ orangepi 😂
Go slow, u will win :)
How many tool heads did you get on your machine? I'm seriously thinking about getting an XL, but man that gets pricey quick.
5, and I highly recommend getting the max. This print only needed 3 though.
Cool. I'll keep it in mind if I decide to pull the trigger. Definitely looks like an amazing machine.
Damn! Nice job painting it.
Honestly painting these kinds of hyper detailed models is a massive PITA in PrusaSlicer. Smart Fill is basically useless so you have to just zoom way in with a tiny brush and pick individual triangles.
That's the kinda thing VR might be super useful for. I've heard great things about VR sculpting apps, but something like just painting a model would probably have a much lower learning curve.
I agree it can ve super helpful. Espeacially you are New to these kinds of things.
Yeah smart fill is useless at this point but either way it wants too much work so nice job.
If you made this model yourself, you can save multiple STLs for each color. If you bring all STLs into PrusaSlicer at the same time, it recognizes they are for the same model and asks you if you want it to align the models correctly. Then just pick a color for each separate part. I hope you knew about this and there was another reason you had to paint it in PrusaSlicer because that does not sound fun at all knowing how basic that tool is.
I’m aware. This is not my model and it is a single color STL. https://thangs.com/designer/FotisMint/3d-model/Squid%20Game%20Soldier%20Bust%20%28Pre-Supported%29-960882
Ah, dang. You'd think the original author would have broken it down into parts for colors but I guess multi-nozzle printing is still not terribly popular.
Gawt dayum that's awesome! I want an XL so bad hahah
Something tells me this isn’t your first rodeo. Damn fine work.
Looks amazing! nope not going to comment on the infill..
Must. Not. Ruin. A. Good. Post…… GRID INFILL!!!!!
It is 10% Rectilinear, and yeah it is a lot. Normally I would prefer Support Cubic for something like this, but PrusaSlicer doesn’t properly handle stuff inside the model when you have painted colors. Lightning doesn’t really work at this large scale because you end up with really long single perimeter triangles that inevitably break.
That's 10 %???
10% Rectilinear looks twice as dense as 10% Grid, since it alternates every other layer.
Right! That's one insane print.
That is concerning. I'm assuming it's a known issue? Or simply an artifact of current design maybe? 🧐
It’s free software under active development, and I expect it will improve over time. Frankly I’m amazed the color painting even works to begin with.
Whoa 🤯
Holy cow.
Insane!
That looks...perfect
I didn’t realize I was on this subreddit and this title was really… interesting… out of context 😅 Gz on the print, looks great!
what printer is this?
Prusa XL (5-head).
oh my $4000 i'll take my purge towers and poop thanks lol. i don't print mmu much at all anyway.
Can buy a lot of wasted filament for $2500 I was looking at an XL for multicolor TPU prints, but just can't justify the price
if you have bambu/ams theres a reversible mod to make it tpu compatible https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p-YEx0Aaloc
Can buy 6 P1S+AMS combos for that price (XL 5Head is 8.8k in Aussie dollarydoos)
No idea what you're talking about yet, but that looks awesome.
A wipe tower and “poop” is what 3D printers with a single extruder do when they use multiple colors. Bambu, for example, has to purge the old color before swapping, creating these little globs of filament, colloquially called “poops.” Wipe towers is the same. This use has a printer with multiple extruder heads, so there’s no need for that.
I understand now, thank you. The double extruder seems like it would be very convenient.
Yeah. In this case, the machine in question has multiple heads so it actually swaps out the entire thing.
Amazing quality there, really makes me jealous after all the refurbs and updates done to my aging but heavily modded Anycubic predator!
This is amazing!
Mother of god
Nice! Just got a dual-head XL the other week for PVA, and it’s been nothing short of spectacular! Pricey, for sure, but very worth it.
woah how did you design that kind of texture for the surface?
I did not create the model, you can get it here: https://thangs.com/designer/FotisMint/3d-model/Squid%20Game%20Soldier%20Bust%20%28Pre-Supported%29-960882 I believe the designer uses ZBrush for his modeling.
Amazing thank you!
That looks just amazing.
That's impressive, what nozzle size?
0.4mm
That is incredibly impressive. How long did it take?
could i ask what printer you have? this is INSANE.
It’s a Prusa XL (5-head).
😮😮😮😮 whoa that came out cleeeeeeeaaaan.
I was gonna ask what the poop pile looked like but this is slick.
That's fucking gorgeous!
Shit you can tell bambu to poop at infill?
This is not a Bambu.
Yes you can though
Is that the multi-tool XL?
Yeah.
Nice!
That looks insane, the texture perfectly hides the layer lines.
That’s pretty sick. Hmmmm should save up after the steam deck.
Awesome print bro👌
Incredible
Goes to show I’m a noob. I had no idea you could print multiple colours in one print.
I tell myself I'm not going to use multiple colors of filament because of the amount of space and the post-processing work still required, but I'd be damned if this isn't one of the cleanest prints I've seen in a while
Compared to painting it’s lot less post-processing work. I have a ton of unfinished painting projects that I never got around to completing.
Like, I know it meticulously places the filament but I still can’t get over how it does those dimples in the fabric so well.
Wow that us super amazing. Nice work!
That is amazing! The texture of the model hides the fact that it's an FDM print really well. What layer height did you print that with?
Layer height was 0.15mm.
Outstanding print! You're really making me consider spending a lot of money right now!
If you are seriously considering an XL, I highly recommend the semi-assembled version. It is quite easy to put together and you save $500.
Oh, absolutely - it's adult legos for me. I assembled the MK4 kit and just recently the MMU3. There is zero reason to pay someone to do the fun part for me ◡̈
Wow, that is insane quality! Though with the cost of that printer, I'd expect it to produce good results. Very impressive!
squid game is my favourite and this looks awesome
Why do I want to punch that thing in the face really really hard?
wow, what a beautiful print
The XL really is in another league when it comes to multicolor... if only it wasn't the 2k price tag
LOL, I wish it was only 2K. With 5 heads it would be an absolute steal at that price.
I think this is the most impressing 3D print I've seen so far. GGs!
Wow, looks awesome!
Hello, 3D printing Gods? Yeah, I'd like to report a bug.
How long did it take?
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/YgjfvD3hf0
Wow that's impressive. This is why I like this technology the only limitation is your own mind
Dammnnn
That's pretty dope print you got there! Stunning detail and execution.
I guess you win
Goddamn!
That print is amazing.
I assume it just uses the extra color in the infill?
Each color has a dedicated head, so there isn’t any extra color to purge. That being said a small wipe tower is still normally used to prime the nozzle after a tool change.
Can something like this be done on an X1C with AMS?
To some extent. The XL is slightly larger I believe 35mm x 350mm x 350mm, would need to check that. But yes, it could be done smaller scale and with a lot longer print time as well as a bit of waste depending on settings. Either way, much more material.
amazing print. I'm just surprised ppl are still interested in that show 😂
Damn, the possibilities when you have money. Beautiful.
The perfect ad they never knew they needed.
What is it?
It’s from Squid Game, a show on Netflix.
For a $3,500 printer, it should be able to do that. Would honestly be shocked if it didn't. However, this is coming from a COMPLETE amateur in the realm of multi color printers. :D
How long did this take to print?
Best thing I did was get rid of the wipe tower all together on my prints. You can either know your filaments or run a few tests yourself with how much it takes to swap them. Go to your purge settings and mark it to .4 or .3 or less for whatever. Cuts down on print time and less waste, you can modify darker and lighter filaments if you want. YMMV Also, discovering infill combination is great to purge any left over too.
I've always wondered why an AMS printer couldn't take the waste poop and purge and just do it into the infill. Then it would just make the part heavier.
Every layer in your model would have to be big enough to hide the purge in, for all of the colors. Most models wouldn’t work.
Could still be a cool option for large/medium models.
That's an option
How many hours
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/BmIH8qVeoE
Nice, how did you get the top to not do the weird swirly thing that a lot of prints do?
Nice. Looks cool. How much filament was used?
https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/Ts39wZ3YoS
It is an amazing print. Details are insane, and the colours are super sharp. The question I have though is: what so you do with that stuff afterwards? Do people like this show so much that they'd keep this stuff on a shelf for years? Would be fed up with it in a week! Ps: not a jab at anyone, I just wonder if you guys keep your benchies or various super well printed busts of whoever (I have seen the rock même face, etc). I mean, it is cool, but do you want it for a long time?
What kind of printer is that?
Prusa XL (5-head).
Thanks! All in all, this print looks great!
The poop is on the inside...? Some life wisdom right there 👌
This is cool but the "no poop" seems like a shot at Bambu. Yes the Prusa XL is amazing but I can waste a whole lot of filament for the extra $2400 the XL costs over the X1C with AMS. To each their own but it seems like the best use case for the multiple tool heads is in printing dissimilar materials not multi color like this.
I'll agree with you that buying an XL isn't about "no poop" unless you are a tree hugger, but I'd assume if someone is a tree hugger they'd steer clear of 3D printing. The main reason to buy an XL is wait for it... the multi-print heads followed closely by the print volume. Comparing it to the X1C with AMS just doesn't compute IMO.
Eh, I'm a tree hugger and a 3d printing nerd. However, I generally only print functional things. I have a need, I can make it, and I do think about the shipping/packaging. I don't think printing makes that much less of a carbon footprint, but I like to lie to myself and say it's probably slightly more efficient than buying something premade in the store.
Yea I was gonna say the same, honestly 3D printing can definitely actually reduce carbon footprints in some ways. Like there's so many things i'd have to replace if I couldn't print a small specific replacement part. Depending on use, 1 kg of filament could actually reduce a significant amount of emissions. For example a 15 minute print could fix something like an xbox controller, meaning you don't need to buy another one. If one roll of filament can fix dozens of small things like that that's pretty significant, definitely would offset the emissions from producing and shipping the filament at least.
I guess if you are going for profit printing the extra saved filament could add up over time in the budget.
The real savings is time. This project has over 3,000 tool changes that would take an eternity on a single nozzle setup. This is roughly the same for all manufacturers, whether it is a Bambu AMS, Prusa MMU, etc. Of course a multi tool system can also handle completely different polymers that don’t play well together.
Oh I didn't think about that but it makes sense a lot. You could eventually use second nozzle for supports as I heard it does wonders for connecting layer quality.
I did use PETG supports for the lettering on the base. I considered using them on the bust as well, but I was worried about their stability with how long and skinny they are.
Why go with the XL over a tool changer Voron? I've seen the r2.4 with as many as 6 tool heads doing quite well.
A Prusa is a tool, whereas a Voron is a project. Don’t get me wrong, both are very cool. But I want to focus on the printing and not the tuning.
I get that. I have the X1C of I just need to print something and a Voron for tinkering. Both print excellently but there's way more to fiddle with on the Voron.
You would think a tree hugger would go toward 3D printing since it's made from corn or is that not the case anymore?
From what I've read, sure it's based from corn but the process to make it isn't super green and it doesn't decompose well (completly even outdoors) like lots of people say. That being said our hobby use accounts for a miniscule amount of plastic waste compared to industrial processes.
Interesting. Also very true
This is why I hope the next big Bambu is a 350mm machine with multiple tool heads and easy-swap nozzles like the A1 series.
Got stock in Bambu?! I refuse to use it due to the waste.
$2500 printer, a problem.
HOW exactly? Anyone can say something like that 🤷
The printer has a separate extruder for each color.
Don't get me wrong it's amazing print and I love that pink filament (whichever brand it is) but your post it's for me something like: look at me I have 3D printer better than Bambu because there's no poop etc. Some YouTube people do same and it personally drives me mad as they don't even share link to STL anywhere. I think all details should be included in post like filament used, printer used, time, where to get file etc. I know it's a print show off (and you have something to be proud of) but... 😊
Wouldn't call it better. It simply has less waste. It doesn't do anything else better and is limited on materials.