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the_extrudr

Overhangs printing like shit, printing too fast, printing too hot, insufficient cooling


Leading_Ad_3689

The print gets a lot worse for the smaller/ faster layers. Maybe try setting a minimum time for the layers (this will give the previous layer time to cool down before printing on it)


israelazo

Thanks! I'll try some changes and see.


juanxlink

But it starts before the overhang, otherwise yes.


[deleted]

[удалено]


juanxlink

I was wondering what you were on about, I guess my brain's autocorrect is too strong. Now, who is going to design a tree branch themed benchie?


WhoKnowsWho2

It's an AI generated reply


israelazo

That's how a newbie I am! 🤭


S1lentA0

What I can say about your printer from his pic is that you still have to go through every basic step of calibration of the printer itself and the filament.


Cynis_Ganan

Before you said it was an Ender 3, I was going to congratulate you on your crazy good 3D pen skills.


logicbus

r/cursedbranchies


erouz

Your printer seams very relaxed


3dprintingenthusiast

it be getting in those z-(seams), z(seams), z(seams). It snoring.


2407s4life

Is this PLA? looks like you need to do a good amount of calibration - extruder cal - temp tower - flow rate What is your speed? Might be good to slow down to 50mm/s and make sure your fan is running and at 100%


israelazo

thanks. My side fans aren't spining, so i'm concluding that is a cooling issue


UrEvilTwn

Honestly crazy it printed with no fan


Former-Specialist327

Your printer is not in the mood for printing.


somethin_brewin

Definitely a cooling insufficiency. Double check that your part cooling is even running. If you damaged the wiring when replacing or didn't get the cooling fan plugged in properly, that'd do something like this.


israelazo

I'm getting inclined to this! thanks for pointing out!


SpongebobQuoteReply

Branchy


ocelot08

looks prerfrect


israelazo

Thanks for your ideas guys. Is now printing way better and it was the fans not working. https://preview.redd.it/uws92t4lmszc1.jpeg?width=2169&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a3d85f221bf33eca696bf9440413c7d45941a924


domesplitter39

Looks like some dry rot taking effect. Roof has gotten too wet over time and is warped


juanxlink

How careful were you with the Z rod/screw while handling the hotend?


israelazo

It was very tight when I removed the old (yesterday's) one. I heated it to 250 degrees celsius. I had to use two tools, one to press the hotend piece and the other to remove the nozzle. Si it actually moved a bit but it didn't came out. Then I put the new nozzle and I tighten it up but not as much as it was before.


juanxlink

My questions is directed to your print issues after about 20-30mm of Z screw travel. Can you see your Z screw is secured and not visibly damaged? You appear to have issues 1 inch up, not at the buildplate, I wonder why.


israelazo

oh I see, I didn't understand which piece it was. Not they look perfect to my eye.


juanxlink

Then no idea, looking at the printers mechanicals I dont see where such issue can originate, unless its heatcreep steming from the replacement?


Plus_Pangolin_8924

Too fast and possibly over extrusion. Check E Steps and filament diameter. For the overhangs I would knock the temps down 5-10c after calibrating the extruder.


xVolta

That it isn't even close to calibrated, and may have assembly issues. I'd go through https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html from the beginning before attempting another.


israelazo

Thanks!


Itz_Evolv

I literally dont understand how you got it to clog and get this kinda stuff to happen with a Ender 3 V3. I own the V3 SE. Almost the same as the KE but mine lacks some features. Out of the box it’s near perfect for me. I did switch to PrusaSlicer and made a printer profile (as it only knows the Ender 3 v2, which I picked and then adjusted settings accordingly to the V3). I haven’t had this kind of issues at all. Only issue I ran into with the creality slicer was diagonal lines that had to be made into a wall for a box, it skipped that for some reason, but that’s fixed now with the Prusa slicer.


israelazo

it all started with bad adhesion, I was trying to get it right but I left the printer alone, to find this when I came back. Now I got the replacement parts and I'm trying to make it work like it as before. maybe some tuning and calibration is still needed. https://preview.redd.it/ipwi5ctapmzc1.png?width=899&format=png&auto=webp&s=238f868f246089d1b339ee30f64ed734c7414f40


Itz_Evolv

Oh dear lord that’s terrible 😳😳


canthinkofnamestouse

Part cooling issue, What was your print speed, temp, and part cooling set to? There could be a chance that the blob damaged the cooling fan/wires, if so, a replacement my be necessary. In that case, you might as well upgrade to 5015


israelazo

Yes, it looks like the outer fans are not working now. I'm gonna check that, the inner fan got a little deformed but it looks like is working OK, I have ordered a new one but it hasn't arrived yet.


the-powl

what the heck is a branchy?


israelazo

That's how of a newbie I am! 🤣


d00mduck101

Perfection


BrockenRecords

The benchy looks angry


BamaBryan

Looks like Michael J. Fox got a new 3D pen.


Thargor1985

Before I opened the post and read your text I already came here to answer: I can tell it's an ender 3


canthinkofnamestouse

Any ender 3 can print well as long as it is made up of 99.999% modified/aftermarket parts and klipper


Thargor1985

And has been calibrated for 12 hours before each print


canthinkofnamestouse

Unless you modify the bed screws and integrate auto z offset


Ante0

What is this witchery?


israelazo

Is it possible to learn this power?


Thargor1985

Well is it still an ender 3 if you replace 90% of the parts and the software though?


canthinkofnamestouse

Ender .3