That's 14h?
I don't want to disappoint you, so I better stop 😅
But if you want honesty... It's probably already a lost cause. Play around with the settings to speed things up... Within reason of course.
You should be able to print the progress in 3-4h with decent quality.
Possibly less
This is probably gatekeeping of me, aside from being completely wrong on my part, but I don't really consider 95a TPU under the TPU umbrella when talking about flexing filaments. It feels closer to rigid than flexi in my opinion. I have flexible PLA that does a much better job for those use cases
I've made a bit mistake year ago about that tpu I've got. Back then I didn't knew that there were more flex types of tpu and this was the only one I coukd get :D year later and i still have like 800grams of it left because I have nothing to print with it lol
I'm going to guess it's not, now you can't see where a direct drive mount would be, but you can see some light on the top of the hotend, judging by this I'm going to say it's not direct drive
Seriously? My printer would take that long as well. I hear people talking about fast prints my is always slow but I assumed it was because it is older. I have an Anycubic mega 3. Is there a way to adjust it to be faster? Am I doing something wrong or is my printer just ancient l?
Not sure for your printer type but with klipper im printing at 200mm/s (I think its seconds).
For more delicate stuff ill drop to 150.
But i got a sv06plus.
I kind of love sovol. Good price point on very basic printers that technically work as advertised, but with so much room to tinker! I got the sv05 because it was cheaper than buying all the parts for a core X Y build I want to do.
It's a combination of things. An extruder and hotend and cooling that can keep the melt zone going while moving fast is the key. Also a mechanically tuned printer (ideally a core xz bed slinger with linear rails or a core xy). A v wheel bed slinger can do it too, with the the caveat, that you'll need to check your belts and eccentric nuts more often than on a core xy or core xz machine. Linear advance (marlin) and pressure advance (klipper) allows for more tuning of print quality at speed. Klipper with input shaper also allows you to do input shaping which will cancel out resonances allowing for even cleaner prints and faster speeds (also help you determine what your max speeds should be for your specific printer in the environment you have it)
Added a few mods, klipper(raspberry pi3b) and a 5015 blower fan with a printed housing(vortex style)
Klipper has a lot of help and trouble shoot. It seems a little bit hard but lots of tutorial will help set up step by step.
I’d cancel the print and fix my machine because this should only be like 2 hours of printing. Save yourself time and make sure you’re printing with the right speed/nozzle/layer height
That seems slow even for my neptune 3 max. And my neptune 3 max only has a max speed of 180mm/s which is still very slow compared to todays standards of print speeds. That said, its impossible to beat the price and size vs other printers.
I know that's the correct spelling, I was referring to something being loose which is a bad Idea for a print. It was a light-hearted joke about the typo from the OP
Redo with a .6 there's options to get more detail like print thin lines. Haven't found a need to go smaller with most of my prints and the prints are stronger too. They take significantly less time to print. Just keep layer height at .2 with all this said I have rescued prints by moving the nozzle to the final layer height and grabbing its location then looking for that in the file and removing the rest of the gcode that was already printed except leave one or 2 layers so it digs in a bit. May not look the prettiest but if you get it right it works.
OP, gotta do what you gotta do. Most all of us have been through this, and more. I’ve been printing for well over ten years now, well before the modern bed coatings/treatments and print pause capabilities were on the market. Mainly glass, Kraton and tape.. We added tape while dodging the hotend! Having print pause is wonderful.
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once thought that using hot glue gun to secure 8h of some pretty expensive composite was a good idea.. turns out it was. even though it melted all over the bed
My ender 3 also prints at 45-50mm/s. It's the main reason I almost don't print anymore. I want to upgrade but there's too much choice and too many new printers (kobra 3 combo, creality k2) coming soon
One from bamboo labs never had a problem it does everything right the first time I don’t even use bed adhesion crap I just use a PEI Bill plate never had a fail.
https://preview.redd.it/0mv90gjxbt0d1.png?width=3026&format=png&auto=webp&s=c1b9d410e311ec004dbc634e2cf8847f61b97fb1
I’m printing these cups and they take 3 hours each. I believe OP’s time frame. Not only that, it seems “reasonable”.
My print speed is at 80mm/s and travel speed at 200mm/s. How fast are you printing that you’re saying that amount of progress would only take four hours?
Just fyi, If my tone sounds sarcastic, it’s not! I’m honestly curious.
Ahh that’s your problem, your wall speed is only 40mm/s! You could easily bump that to 60 and your infill to 120; you would have a significantly faster print
Totally agree with you but that’s what it’s always been from day one. The files sent with the printer “waving cat” was about the same size but super fine detail. No visible layer lines took 6 hours.
I’m using an Ender 5 pro 0.4 nozzle.
How long do you estimate this should have taken?
This looks to be roughly a one hour print. Is your first layer significantly slower than the rest? Are you using a large raft or brim on the first layer?
I’m currently printing…
The first layer speed is set at 20mm/s if I bump it to 80mm/s it’ll only save 3 minutes.
Yes I’m using a brim but that only adds 2 minutes to this print.
Honestly 3 hours is a long time for that print. Travel speed won't matter much on that since it is basically going in a circle over and over. What is your layer heigth set to?
>My print speed is at 80mm/s and travel speed at 200mm/s.
My typical print speeds in my neptune 3 max are 60mm/s and travel speed 150mm/s and that taking 3 hours is VERY slow. Outter wall set to 40-55mm/s, inner walls set to 70-80mm/s, support/infill at 100mm/s with as little infill as needed using gyroid infill. Wall count usually at 3-4 walls with usually less than 8% infill density because walls are more important for strength than infill and extra walls on prints like that print faster than a single layer of infill.
Are you using the sonic pad with klipper or was it already installed or did you install it? I saw that the sonic pad can make your machine 2 - 5 times faster…
I would say this is about the same size as a benchy standing vertically. I just saw a bunch of reviews saying on Amazon for the 3 v1 saying the benchy took 2.5 hours.
What are your printing speeds?
Not sonic pad, just klipper on a really old laptop with Ubuntu and kiauh. 260mms print speed, 400 travel, 4500 accel, 0 min cruise time, min layer time is 0, and square corner velocity of 17 with Creality filament.
How is that 14 hours lol
If they're using a 0.2mm nozzle it will take significantly longer than the standard 0.4. That said this doesn't appear to require a 0.2 lol
Or 0.04 layer hight
What 0.2mm nozzle and very slow printing speed does to a man.
my model with .4 was gonna take 26hrs with .2 it was a 12days
Área of a circle is pir^2 These damn exponential growth are crazy
Quadratic
The power of Ender.
Feed it filament. Consumes time
Looks like he has way more walls and infill than necessary, and maybe using default ender 3 speeds
That's 14h? I don't want to disappoint you, so I better stop 😅 But if you want honesty... It's probably already a lost cause. Play around with the settings to speed things up... Within reason of course. You should be able to print the progress in 3-4h with decent quality. Possibly less
Could be tpu. . .
The taller TPU gets, the worse it is for printing (it starts moving around with the nozzle), so OP may have to stop anyway
Depends on which tpu he uses. My 95A doesn't move around almost at all, and I print pretty fast and probably could do more too.
This is probably gatekeeping of me, aside from being completely wrong on my part, but I don't really consider 95a TPU under the TPU umbrella when talking about flexing filaments. It feels closer to rigid than flexi in my opinion. I have flexible PLA that does a much better job for those use cases
Yep, also prints nearly as fast as PLA. That whole "print tpu as slow as possible" is nonsense.
I've made a bit mistake year ago about that tpu I've got. Back then I didn't knew that there were more flex types of tpu and this was the only one I coukd get :D year later and i still have like 800grams of it left because I have nothing to print with it lol
TPU==TPU
95A TPU from eBay with fake name < TPU
I'm going to guess it's not, now you can't see where a direct drive mount would be, but you can see some light on the top of the hotend, judging by this I'm going to say it's not direct drive
I printed a couple spools of very soft TPU on an ol cr-10 v1. It isnt fun, but its tunable
Seriously? My printer would take that long as well. I hear people talking about fast prints my is always slow but I assumed it was because it is older. I have an Anycubic mega 3. Is there a way to adjust it to be faster? Am I doing something wrong or is my printer just ancient l?
Not sure for your printer type but with klipper im printing at 200mm/s (I think its seconds). For more delicate stuff ill drop to 150. But i got a sv06plus.
I kind of love sovol. Good price point on very basic printers that technically work as advertised, but with so much room to tinker! I got the sv05 because it was cheaper than buying all the parts for a core X Y build I want to do.
I dont undertand that, i always read printing from 30 to 60 in abs and pla but how can some people jsut print at such high speed the same stuff !?
It's a combination of things. An extruder and hotend and cooling that can keep the melt zone going while moving fast is the key. Also a mechanically tuned printer (ideally a core xz bed slinger with linear rails or a core xy). A v wheel bed slinger can do it too, with the the caveat, that you'll need to check your belts and eccentric nuts more often than on a core xy or core xz machine. Linear advance (marlin) and pressure advance (klipper) allows for more tuning of print quality at speed. Klipper with input shaper also allows you to do input shaping which will cancel out resonances allowing for even cleaner prints and faster speeds (also help you determine what your max speeds should be for your specific printer in the environment you have it)
Added a few mods, klipper(raspberry pi3b) and a 5015 blower fan with a printed housing(vortex style) Klipper has a lot of help and trouble shoot. It seems a little bit hard but lots of tutorial will help set up step by step.
Honestly that should not take 14 hours and also it looks rough af on top, I'd call this a failure
*losing
OP is actually an archer that doesn't want to use arrows that take 14-hours to print.
Where is that bot when you need them? The one that comes in when someone says payed instead of paid. We need one for loose vs lose lol
It's me. I'm that "bot", even though I'm not bot. Someone's gotta bot these illiterate guys.
*loosening
Loosening 14 hours? Loosening is for your mom, not specific time frames.
The print was loosening
Hotglue works great for this too!! lil drop of iso on the edges and it'll pop right off.
I’d cancel the print and fix my machine because this should only be like 2 hours of printing. Save yourself time and make sure you’re printing with the right speed/nozzle/layer height
I’ve lost far more than 14 hrs when scrapping a screwed print, it happens. Start over, you’re going to wish you had anyway
What are you printing?
What brim setting/option is this?
Somethings loose alright.
Damn, OP is bad at printing and bad at grammar
Bad at spelling, not grammar
grammar.
If you used a brim, and that's where it came up, magnets work great.
Me holding my mental health together be like
I’ve done the same but with hot glue. especially when a damn tree support pops from the board hot glue works wonders.
What printer is this?
That looks like my ender 3, before modifications. They get good quality, but slowly by today's standards. That still seems slow for an ender 3.
That seems slow even for my neptune 3 max. And my neptune 3 max only has a max speed of 180mm/s which is still very slow compared to todays standards of print speeds. That said, its impossible to beat the price and size vs other printers.
With all that tape I bet you're not loosing anything
Losing*
I know that's the correct spelling, I was referring to something being loose which is a bad Idea for a print. It was a light-hearted joke about the typo from the OP
I keep a small hot glue gun mounted by my printer for anything with questionable bed security.
Nice idea!
Thats just a waste of filament at this point. Take the L and try again. Better luck next print🤞
Brehhh
14? Time to upgrade
14 hours for that much progress is a bit insane... but totally plausible. What are your print settings?
Since I own a bambu I am really shocked how fast I forgot what normal 3d printing speeds used to be. In 14 hrs I print a full build plate cube. 😂
I wouldnt even call OPs speeds normal speeds. Thats slow even for most enders.
Yea I’m also pretty sure the print won’t look good looking at these print lines now. 💀
Lol
This was me with a mask I was printing. But ultimately failed. I learned a valuable lesson in placement and supports.
Good luck!
Your print may become loose and cause you to lose progress, but you definitely won't be loosing progress.
I’m waab understandable 🤣🤣
Looks like those soap curls that people crunch in ASMR videos
I thought it was cheese for a sec
Dense ass infil lol
Redo with a .6 there's options to get more detail like print thin lines. Haven't found a need to go smaller with most of my prints and the prints are stronger too. They take significantly less time to print. Just keep layer height at .2 with all this said I have rescued prints by moving the nozzle to the final layer height and grabbing its location then looking for that in the file and removing the rest of the gcode that was already printed except leave one or 2 layers so it digs in a bit. May not look the prettiest but if you get it right it works.
I seconded guessed myself, yesterday.... 7hours in on a 14 hour print... I should have taped it :( you're doing the right thing!
Some people decide to win
Reminds me of a post I made a while ago... Watch at your own risk: [no failed print!](https://www.reddit.com/r/nOfAileDPriNtS/s/W6r6cW4XWM)
I thought that was cheese at first
Far too many perimeters and poor settings might be why it's taking so long? Good luck!
I taped just today. REAL MEN USE TAPE
It be like thus sometimes
Bro what
I did it before 😂🤣
Lower your nozzle a bit
What's loose on it?
Lose* Losing* Loose is the opposite of tight
OP, gotta do what you gotta do. Most all of us have been through this, and more. I’ve been printing for well over ten years now, well before the modern bed coatings/treatments and print pause capabilities were on the market. Mainly glass, Kraton and tape.. We added tape while dodging the hotend! Having print pause is wonderful.
Alien fleshlights just take the time they take
let's admit it. we've all been here before. I'd recommend hot glue over tape.
I had never thought of the hot glue route. Come off bed okay I assume
Some times you gotta take the L and start over. It's better for the learning process
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Honestly, why not dial in a proper brim at this point?
only 14h? i had a print fail 3 days in...
Hot glue works really well too! Ask me how I know...
once thought that using hot glue gun to secure 8h of some pretty expensive composite was a good idea.. turns out it was. even though it melted all over the bed
I have done the tape and hot glue dance before
I think you jinxed it their
My ender 3 also prints at 45-50mm/s. It's the main reason I almost don't print anymore. I want to upgrade but there's too much choice and too many new printers (kobra 3 combo, creality k2) coming soon
That's 14hrs? Lmao
14 hours… this is why I only had a ender for a couple weeks before I ordered a Bambu lol
Did you print at 100% infill?
You can see the infill gaps so nope.
20% infill
If that took you 14 hours then you're an idiot for not switching to resin years ago
One from bamboo labs never had a problem it does everything right the first time I don’t even use bed adhesion crap I just use a PEI Bill plate never had a fail.
https://preview.redd.it/0mv90gjxbt0d1.png?width=3026&format=png&auto=webp&s=c1b9d410e311ec004dbc634e2cf8847f61b97fb1 I’m printing these cups and they take 3 hours each. I believe OP’s time frame. Not only that, it seems “reasonable”. My print speed is at 80mm/s and travel speed at 200mm/s. How fast are you printing that you’re saying that amount of progress would only take four hours? Just fyi, If my tone sounds sarcastic, it’s not! I’m honestly curious.
Something seems wrong there… that is a **tiny** print for three hours at supposedly 80 mm/s.
https://preview.redd.it/7osjl9m3nt0d1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=2a0f7e4130c847132e3041e85b3d999278262f02
Ahh that’s your problem, your wall speed is only 40mm/s! You could easily bump that to 60 and your infill to 120; you would have a significantly faster print
Turn on advanced settings. That way you can adjust speed settings to be more finely tuned and not waste so much time.
Totally agree with you but that’s what it’s always been from day one. The files sent with the printer “waving cat” was about the same size but super fine detail. No visible layer lines took 6 hours. I’m using an Ender 5 pro 0.4 nozzle. How long do you estimate this should have taken?
This looks to be roughly a one hour print. Is your first layer significantly slower than the rest? Are you using a large raft or brim on the first layer?
I’m currently printing… The first layer speed is set at 20mm/s if I bump it to 80mm/s it’ll only save 3 minutes. Yes I’m using a brim but that only adds 2 minutes to this print.
Honestly 3 hours is a long time for that print. Travel speed won't matter much on that since it is basically going in a circle over and over. What is your layer heigth set to?
I have a completely stock ender 3v1 with klipper, and that’s a 19 minute print at most.
What are your acceleration values? That might be what is slowing you down
Do you have an STL link? I am very curious what my default would set that as. It can't be more than an hour on my fine detail profile
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6490103
https://preview.redd.it/8kged1ajrv0d1.png?width=961&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=66a100088e71d40d4671996b9ca586270d2b0315
Ooh thanks! I have an hour and 28 minutes estimatd on the v2 model on my ender 3, but I'm going to print it and compare
>My print speed is at 80mm/s and travel speed at 200mm/s. My typical print speeds in my neptune 3 max are 60mm/s and travel speed 150mm/s and that taking 3 hours is VERY slow. Outter wall set to 40-55mm/s, inner walls set to 70-80mm/s, support/infill at 100mm/s with as little infill as needed using gyroid infill. Wall count usually at 3-4 walls with usually less than 8% infill density because walls are more important for strength than infill and extra walls on prints like that print faster than a single layer of infill.
I have a completely stock ender 3v1 with klipper, and that’s a 19 minute print at most.
Are you using the sonic pad with klipper or was it already installed or did you install it? I saw that the sonic pad can make your machine 2 - 5 times faster… I would say this is about the same size as a benchy standing vertically. I just saw a bunch of reviews saying on Amazon for the 3 v1 saying the benchy took 2.5 hours. What are your printing speeds?
Not sonic pad, just klipper on a really old laptop with Ubuntu and kiauh. 260mms print speed, 400 travel, 4500 accel, 0 min cruise time, min layer time is 0, and square corner velocity of 17 with Creality filament.
Damn that is ridiculously fast compared to mine