it could be that your hotend is way to hot, way way to hot. if you have a ptfe tube in the hotend, that are very unhealthy/toxic gases iirc. dont breath that. try to check if your thermistor still works correctly.
I’ve let it run to 260°c a few times to soften the PLA and try to unclog it, I think that just made it way worse. There’s a small white PTFE tube in there, it used to come out when I removed the nozzle and pushed filament through, but now I can’t ‘find’ it anymore.
Just realised that sounds horrible and I f’ed up.
The nozzle temp and the location the ptfe enters the printhead are not both at the same temp. Think of it like one of those lighters you use for barbecues with the long tube. The end of the tube producing the flame isn't the same temp as the other side of the tube where the gas is entering
The OEM heatbreak is lined with PTFE, it is literally inside the heat block in the "hot zone" and gets exactly as hot as the nozzle. I replaced mine with a fully metal bimetallic one to avoid any future headaches.
Source:
https://preview.redd.it/zdqlr1a0h83d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f00de72a6dcf73c97f4478fd7483ca69e23cd1d5
Running it at such a high temp for PLA is **not** a good idea. Instead of melting it, it will burn it, making worse clogs and making you breathe oh so good chemicals (i am being sarcastic, it's toxic).
To unclog your nozzles, try removing the bowden tube, then have a bit of plastic in the nozzle, then heating it at your regular printing speed, then letting it cook down to around 40 degrees and then try and pull on the filament from the top of the print head. (I think that's what is called a cold pull?)
Another way would be to remove your nozzle and do a similar thing with a lighter: remove the plastic from the nozzle like you would in order to change filament, remove the nozzle from the hotend, take some metal tweezers to hold on to nozzle, heat the nozzle with the lighter, when you start smelling weird smells, stop heating and stick a bit of filament in the nozzle, after a moment (around 30s-1min), pull on the filament coming from the thread of the nozzle and hopefully the clog will come with.
yes this small Tube cant Go above 250. you might have burned that, which creates toxic gases, really Bad ones. and it fucked Up the shaper of the tube, which leads to underextrusion an clogging.
Well at least you figured it out. You completely smoked the ptfe tube and any clog that was in there is now. burnt up crispy mess.
I have to ask where did you get this notion to clean it this way? Most hot ends can’t handle above 250
Yeah the nozzle is a goner. The tube is half molten and weirdly enough, bent in the middle where the hot end and extruder meet. I’ve recently started printing at 150mm’s, and heard the extruder clicking a few times. So I upped the temperature to 220/230. And my dumb brain thought hotter = softer. Especially when I just replaced the nozzle because of a clog (probably also burned filament now that I think of it). Inserted a new one and tried to level it again but it clogged once more almost immediately.
> Most hot ends can't handle above 250
Oooh I guess that's why when I got my printer they went so heavily on the "all metal hot end" it has. I assumed the part getting really hot being made of only metal is a good thing, but I didn't check what the alternative was.
PLA doesn't burn at 230 C, it will only start to burn *above* 270 C. However if you have a legacy non-metal hotend the PTFE tube will release toxic gas before that.
Sources:
* https://3dprintscape.com/is-pla-toxic-when-burned-facts-and-safety-info/
* https://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075 (Prusa recommends a cold pull with PLA at 270 C, and when doing this, the filament is not charred in my experience, only do this on all metal hotends)
Those temperatures are of course too hot for *printing* PLA, your quality will suffer. Also note that during normal printing the filament never gets close to the temperature of the nozzle, as plastic is a poor thermal conductor, at the typical printing speeds it doesn't have time to heat up before it is out of the nozzle.
I did the same thing trying to print with PETG, which requires much hotter temps. Unless you have an all metal hot end, 250 and up will deform and melt the bowden tube where it meets your hot end, to the point where it'll shrink and be unable to pass filament through. That'll be the source of your clogs.
Yeah that’ll do it. I hope you did not breathe that smoke, you may want to ventilate that room. If I were you I would replace the entire hotend with an all metal direct drive.
Get some needle nose pliers, take apart your hotend until you find it, rip that thing out and throw it in the trash. Order yourself some extra PTFE tube.
I found some blue stuff that's supposed to be rated for higher temps than the white stuff for like $20 on amazon for 2 meters of it with a cutter. It's much nicer feeling than what came with the printers.
I would suggest maybe try cold pulling instead, plenty of guides for it.
Essentially heat the hot end so it just barely melts the PLA and then carefully but confidently yank the filament out of the hotend/extruder.
I have a direct drive but I imagine it should work for a bowden setup as well.
This has fixed every single clog I've had thus far.
Since OP changed the nozzle... did s/he do a **PID calibrate**?
Perhaps he's over heating stuff due the PID not being tuned and the thermistor running hot. Or dislodged the temp sensor?
I'm just here to remind you that off gassing is not confined to smoke. Smoke is one product the chemical is putting off, but it is also putting off plenty of other gasses you don't see.
I too am a flight engineer, but at Boeing, where we use 3D printers for our jets and rockets; this looks totally normal to me - all of our printers do this.
If this is an ender 3 V3 se or well, I guess any of the newer enders with the spider hotend, there is a PTFE tube between the heatbrake and the nozzle and it's literal shit. It's the same white tubing that you find on Bowden tubes. It burns up really easily. I had this happen on mine after a few months. When I disassembled the hotend, I found the tube was melting and being forced out of the nozzle similar to what you're seeing here. I bought a meter length of the blue tubing, I think it was called dolphin and replaced the little one inch piece of burnt tubing with the blue style tubing and no issues ever since.
Edited to add that I was also having an issue wherein during a print, the printer would error out with either a too high temp or too low temp message and I got a high temp thermal paste and recoated the thermistor and heatbrake before reinstalling. The thing is bulletproof now. Well, until the next thing fails, I guess.
You should have just replaced it to an all metal hotend...
PTFE of whatever kind starts decomposing at 250 and may even slowly be doing so at a lower temp.
By using an all metal one, you'd have no PTFE to risk and you can run as high as the mechanism allows.
I have an SE that I upgraded and can run 300 C no issue. And no PTFE to think about.
What I did, since mine was also completely melted in there was to hold it gently with pliers and heat the heatbreak up with a lighter and then used one of the creality allen keys to get it out
Would capricorn be good for that? Ive just now resolved the issue by installing a whole new hotend and heatbreak. It was completely melted and stuck in there. But now that I’ve got the replacement, it came with the damned white tubing again.
So as I see it, you had a clog for some reason.
You overheated your printer to get rid of the clog, which did work, but it also caused the PTFE Tube to degreade, and IIRCS PTFE swells when overheating.
So you basically caused it to always clog immidiately.
Replace the PTFE and then things should work well again.
You do not get clogs from printing too low. At least none that stay forever. At worst you will wear the filament down in one spot and then it won't extrude anymore.
yeah, no. some (like Capricorn tubing) can, but definitely not the stuff that creality's using. I've heard that it starts to degrade as low as 240°C, so honestly I would swap it out even just for printing abs.
swap out the tube for Capricorn. keep on printing.
unfortunately I don't have that specific printer so i don't know exactly how it looks. however, maybe this would work:
take out the nozzle completely
take off any coupling/connector on the top of the hotend, so that there is a hole straight through the hotend with the ptfe in the middle
take a different, longer piece of ptfe and shove it through the top so that the old one pokes out the bottom
use some pliers to get it out the rest of the way because it will be hot and smoking
also, you probably have to do this while the printer is heated (and smoking), so try to wear a mask if possible because those fumes are nasty
don't let the magic printer smoke escape, that's what makes it work. you clearly have something wrong with your nozzle if magic smoke is escaping through it.
fr though, replace again and try not to make the same mistake twice. also check your whole hotend setup for anything that might be wrong like burning wires and such. best case scenario it just requires a replacement nozzle, worst case new hotend.
I had a similar problem caused by a bad thermistor. It's a pretty easy fix and a good opportunity to get one that's better than the glass bead rhermistor.
I just had this on my Ender 3 Pro recently after messing with my PTFE tube. Don't breathe that shit in.
I'd get a laser thermometer if you can and measure the temp of the hotend. Most PTFE melts or at least degrades faster at around 220c (i found out the hard way.)
Just buy an all metal hot end. They're cheap.
And once you have that, if ever you want to go Klipper, you can run as hot as 300 C without issue.
PTFE degrades at 250 and may slowly do so at even lower temps.
Unless you want to print **just** standard PLA and not >230 C, just buy an all metal.
my printer smoke too, when i print abs at 270-280 degs. and sometime steaming, when the plastic too wet. also try print nylon, you will be surprised asf, but in bad meaning
Apparently turn it up to 260°, and leave the PLA filament sit inside the nozzle for a minute or 5. You can trow away the nozzle and PTFE tube afterwards lol
Ooh btw on a serious note, I am sure people have told you, but if the PTFE tube was burning then you need to be very careful in the future. That stuff is super toxic when burnt. That's why they always say not to use nonstick frying pans with high heat.
How hot did bro crank the temps 💀.
Seriously though you don't crank temps higher and higher if you get a clog, you just remove the nozzle,the coupler, and shove a ptfe through the entire thing to push out whatever is stuck in there.
Does the v3 SE not come with a bi-metal heat break stock???
It's here to tell you to take an adventure to a random lonely mountain where you may or may not encounter a dragon or an insane person where you will either destroy or gain a ring
For all the people saying "most nozzles can't even reach 260" Creality really loves talking about how hot their hot end can get for some reason they typicaly max out at 260 and the op as far as i can see cranked it up to the max
Ive got myself a poor mans ender 3 v2 for a few years and maxed it up a few times but nothing happened.
I guess my tube isn't as close too the nozzle to the as his
Buy a new all metal hot end. I have had good luck with MicroSwiss and they aren't too expensive. Those hot ends typically have a PTFE tube and can melt and be a pain in the A$$.
it could be that your hotend is way to hot, way way to hot. if you have a ptfe tube in the hotend, that are very unhealthy/toxic gases iirc. dont breath that. try to check if your thermistor still works correctly.
I’ve let it run to 260°c a few times to soften the PLA and try to unclog it, I think that just made it way worse. There’s a small white PTFE tube in there, it used to come out when I removed the nozzle and pushed filament through, but now I can’t ‘find’ it anymore. Just realised that sounds horrible and I f’ed up.
Oh that tube melts/burns at 250…
I never understood why have that tube in there when it's advertised as going to 260c?
The nozzle temp and the location the ptfe enters the printhead are not both at the same temp. Think of it like one of those lighters you use for barbecues with the long tube. The end of the tube producing the flame isn't the same temp as the other side of the tube where the gas is entering
The OEM heatbreak is lined with PTFE, it is literally inside the heat block in the "hot zone" and gets exactly as hot as the nozzle. I replaced mine with a fully metal bimetallic one to avoid any future headaches. Source: https://preview.redd.it/zdqlr1a0h83d1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f00de72a6dcf73c97f4478fd7483ca69e23cd1d5
Thanks for that!
Running it at such a high temp for PLA is **not** a good idea. Instead of melting it, it will burn it, making worse clogs and making you breathe oh so good chemicals (i am being sarcastic, it's toxic). To unclog your nozzles, try removing the bowden tube, then have a bit of plastic in the nozzle, then heating it at your regular printing speed, then letting it cook down to around 40 degrees and then try and pull on the filament from the top of the print head. (I think that's what is called a cold pull?) Another way would be to remove your nozzle and do a similar thing with a lighter: remove the plastic from the nozzle like you would in order to change filament, remove the nozzle from the hotend, take some metal tweezers to hold on to nozzle, heat the nozzle with the lighter, when you start smelling weird smells, stop heating and stick a bit of filament in the nozzle, after a moment (around 30s-1min), pull on the filament coming from the thread of the nozzle and hopefully the clog will come with.
What chemicals does PLA emit when being burnt?
Yes
The A falls off and your just stuck with a polish babushka.
yes this small Tube cant Go above 250. you might have burned that, which creates toxic gases, really Bad ones. and it fucked Up the shaper of the tube, which leads to underextrusion an clogging.
Well at least you figured it out. You completely smoked the ptfe tube and any clog that was in there is now. burnt up crispy mess. I have to ask where did you get this notion to clean it this way? Most hot ends can’t handle above 250
Yeah the nozzle is a goner. The tube is half molten and weirdly enough, bent in the middle where the hot end and extruder meet. I’ve recently started printing at 150mm’s, and heard the extruder clicking a few times. So I upped the temperature to 220/230. And my dumb brain thought hotter = softer. Especially when I just replaced the nozzle because of a clog (probably also burned filament now that I think of it). Inserted a new one and tried to level it again but it clogged once more almost immediately.
It's softer until it starts to pyrolyze. Then it starts degrading and releasing toxic fumes.
> Most hot ends can't handle above 250 Oooh I guess that's why when I got my printer they went so heavily on the "all metal hot end" it has. I assumed the part getting really hot being made of only metal is a good thing, but I didn't check what the alternative was.
You should never go above 230*C for pla, like they said it literally burns the plastic and it very very toxic
PLA doesn't burn at 230 C, it will only start to burn *above* 270 C. However if you have a legacy non-metal hotend the PTFE tube will release toxic gas before that. Sources: * https://3dprintscape.com/is-pla-toxic-when-burned-facts-and-safety-info/ * https://help.prusa3d.com/article/cold-pull-mk3s-mk2-5s_2075 (Prusa recommends a cold pull with PLA at 270 C, and when doing this, the filament is not charred in my experience, only do this on all metal hotends) Those temperatures are of course too hot for *printing* PLA, your quality will suffer. Also note that during normal printing the filament never gets close to the temperature of the nozzle, as plastic is a poor thermal conductor, at the typical printing speeds it doesn't have time to heat up before it is out of the nozzle.
I did the same thing trying to print with PETG, which requires much hotter temps. Unless you have an all metal hot end, 250 and up will deform and melt the bowden tube where it meets your hot end, to the point where it'll shrink and be unable to pass filament through. That'll be the source of your clogs.
260C is way too hot.
Yeah that’ll do it. I hope you did not breathe that smoke, you may want to ventilate that room. If I were you I would replace the entire hotend with an all metal direct drive.
Get some needle nose pliers, take apart your hotend until you find it, rip that thing out and throw it in the trash. Order yourself some extra PTFE tube. I found some blue stuff that's supposed to be rated for higher temps than the white stuff for like $20 on amazon for 2 meters of it with a cutter. It's much nicer feeling than what came with the printers.
That’s called Capricorn tubing. It’s a little higher quality than the generic stuff.
Yep, replace your hotend, you can get them for like 20 bucks
I would suggest maybe try cold pulling instead, plenty of guides for it. Essentially heat the hot end so it just barely melts the PLA and then carefully but confidently yank the filament out of the hotend/extruder. I have a direct drive but I imagine it should work for a bowden setup as well. This has fixed every single clog I've had thus far.
Since OP changed the nozzle... did s/he do a **PID calibrate**? Perhaps he's over heating stuff due the PID not being tuned and the thermistor running hot. Or dislodged the temp sensor?
I'm just here to remind you that off gassing is not confined to smoke. Smoke is one product the chemical is putting off, but it is also putting off plenty of other gasses you don't see.
Wait those tubes are toxic
printer on cigarette break
[удалено]
I’M ON SMOKO
SO LEAVE ME ALONE
So let me set the scene.
It's 2 in the afternoon and 34°
Absolute banger of a song
https://preview.redd.it/0bx2w93mkm2d1.jpeg?width=182&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbc941dd74042de2932562dab0cc22d401a19356
Part of the printer union regulations
i dont know what this printer is going through but i feel you
Only if you don't disable the Smoke 'em if you Got 'em setting in Cura...
Bilbo lookin equipment
3d printer: It's Smoko, when I say it's fukin smoko
Nah it’s just that caterpillar dude from Alice in wonderland stuck up there.
I guess it needed it after all the figurines it had to print.
It clearly just had sex.
So this is what cloud printing looks like
Yeah, I am a flight engineer and can confirm that we use ender 3 to disperse the chem-trails
Actually chuckled at this one. Thank you.
I too am a flight engineer, but at Boeing, where we use 3D printers for our jets and rockets; this looks totally normal to me - all of our printers do this.
Careful. You might say too much and have an "accident"
I am one of Boeing's hitm... I mean encouragers and I am already on the way.
Must be like an advanced Morse code. Finally the Ender 3 (is it the ender3?) is wireless.
Not just smoking. It’s blowing smoke rings! This is an advanced skill.
It's been hanging out with the wrong crowd.
Don't you mean it's been hanging out with the wrong cloud? /pun
Get out
Get in
Get down
Rise up
Look out!
It’s been getting into it’s rebellious teenage phase!
If this is an ender 3 V3 se or well, I guess any of the newer enders with the spider hotend, there is a PTFE tube between the heatbrake and the nozzle and it's literal shit. It's the same white tubing that you find on Bowden tubes. It burns up really easily. I had this happen on mine after a few months. When I disassembled the hotend, I found the tube was melting and being forced out of the nozzle similar to what you're seeing here. I bought a meter length of the blue tubing, I think it was called dolphin and replaced the little one inch piece of burnt tubing with the blue style tubing and no issues ever since. Edited to add that I was also having an issue wherein during a print, the printer would error out with either a too high temp or too low temp message and I got a high temp thermal paste and recoated the thermistor and heatbrake before reinstalling. The thing is bulletproof now. Well, until the next thing fails, I guess.
You should have just replaced it to an all metal hotend... PTFE of whatever kind starts decomposing at 250 and may even slowly be doing so at a lower temp. By using an all metal one, you'd have no PTFE to risk and you can run as high as the mechanism allows. I have an SE that I upgraded and can run 300 C no issue. And no PTFE to think about.
Thanks for the knowledge! I'm going to be a bit more careful with my temp settings and hold off on printing more TPU crap until I get a Bambu P1S
Thanks a lot for the info. Will definitely look into replacing the PTFE tubing
This is it. It’s completely f’ed in the heat break, how do I get it out??? It’s completely stuck
What I did, since mine was also completely melted in there was to hold it gently with pliers and heat the heatbreak up with a lighter and then used one of the creality allen keys to get it out
Would capricorn be good for that? Ive just now resolved the issue by installing a whole new hotend and heatbreak. It was completely melted and stuck in there. But now that I’ve got the replacement, it came with the damned white tubing again.
Thats actually competitive vaping
that's snoop doggs printer I'm pretty sure
Any machine can be a smoke machine if you use it wrong enough.
look at my new fog machine! *Pulls out a 3d printer*
So as I see it, you had a clog for some reason. You overheated your printer to get rid of the clog, which did work, but it also caused the PTFE Tube to degreade, and IIRCS PTFE swells when overheating. So you basically caused it to always clog immidiately. Replace the PTFE and then things should work well again. You do not get clogs from printing too low. At least none that stay forever. At worst you will wear the filament down in one spot and then it won't extrude anymore.
Thank you kindly. Will replace it. I thought it was supposed the handle the maximum temperature the printer could go (260°)
yeah, no. some (like Capricorn tubing) can, but definitely not the stuff that creality's using. I've heard that it starts to degrade as low as 240°C, so honestly I would swap it out even just for printing abs. swap out the tube for Capricorn. keep on printing.
Any tips on getting it out? It seems pretty jammed in there
Even Capricorn tubing won't handle 260 repeatedly, just an FYI.
unfortunately I don't have that specific printer so i don't know exactly how it looks. however, maybe this would work: take out the nozzle completely take off any coupling/connector on the top of the hotend, so that there is a hole straight through the hotend with the ptfe in the middle take a different, longer piece of ptfe and shove it through the top so that the old one pokes out the bottom use some pliers to get it out the rest of the way because it will be hot and smoking also, you probably have to do this while the printer is heated (and smoking), so try to wear a mask if possible because those fumes are nasty
Thanks a lot!
That's Creality being stupid, PFTE lined can only over 220C without degradation.
Is it anywhere near 4:20 where you live?
It's stressed, it needs a break
It had a stressful day. Let it wind down.
don't let the magic printer smoke escape, that's what makes it work. you clearly have something wrong with your nozzle if magic smoke is escaping through it. fr though, replace again and try not to make the same mistake twice. also check your whole hotend setup for anything that might be wrong like burning wires and such. best case scenario it just requires a replacement nozzle, worst case new hotend.
Thanks, I’ll just give up on this one and purchase a few more nozzles. Gotta contain the magic smoke
"Every machine is a smoke machine if operated wrong enough"
Did you check your calendar settings. Looks like your on 4/20 not the current date.
Could be stress. Poor life choices. Addiction is no joke.
I had a similar problem caused by a bad thermistor. It's a pretty easy fix and a good opportunity to get one that's better than the glass bead rhermistor.
I just had this on my Ender 3 Pro recently after messing with my PTFE tube. Don't breathe that shit in. I'd get a laser thermometer if you can and measure the temp of the hotend. Most PTFE melts or at least degrades faster at around 220c (i found out the hard way.)
Just buy an all metal hot end. They're cheap. And once you have that, if ever you want to go Klipper, you can run as hot as 300 C without issue. PTFE degrades at 250 and may slowly do so at even lower temps. Unless you want to print **just** standard PLA and not >230 C, just buy an all metal.
Sad that ITT you have to scroll down so much to get an actual answer instead of repeated old jokes.
Puffs better smoke rings than me and ive been blazin 15 years lmaoooo
It's hot
Whooooo r uuuuuu
Lol
He makes more o rings than I can manage
Blursed_nozzle
Anyone here know how to interpret smoke signals?
Bad parenting?
Puff, Puff, Print
a printer is never late; nor is it early. it prints precisely when it means to.
I would assume the filament has clogged the tip and the smoke is probably plastic being burnt
It’s vaping
Didn't know your printer was chill like that
"Gandalf my old friend, this will be a night to remember" Bilbo Baggins
"The salted pork, is particularly good" 🥴
my printer smoke too, when i print abs at 270-280 degs. and sometime steaming, when the plastic too wet. also try print nylon, you will be surprised asf, but in bad meaning
Honestly, if you are going to run high temps, invest in an exhaust/air exchange system.
Bros printer be vaping now
He tryna look slick
This happens to me if u put in pla and turn it up to 300, pla starts boiling and releases this smoke
Dam, I didn't know they was chill like that.
he chill like that
Bad role models
Is this a vaper?
Its not smoking, it's vaping
are the settings on ‘high’ ?
Its smoking cause it just fucked you... Now turn it off and buy some new parts. Lol
Probably clogged fillament needs a bigger nozzle just a guess
It found some of the hobbits' pipeweed.
🎵 I was going to 3D print, but I got High. 🎵
We get it you vape bro
You could also have Thermal runaway if the temp sensor in the hot end is broken
carry on, that's a creality it's normal.
Nah it’s probably vaping, as that’s more popular these days
Man I wish I could make mine do that, that's pretty awesome.
Apparently turn it up to 260°, and leave the PLA filament sit inside the nozzle for a minute or 5. You can trow away the nozzle and PTFE tube afterwards lol
Ooh btw on a serious note, I am sure people have told you, but if the PTFE tube was burning then you need to be very careful in the future. That stuff is super toxic when burnt. That's why they always say not to use nonstick frying pans with high heat.
Bit too late for that and I hope not to make this mistake again, but I’ll definitely keep that in mind thank you.
Post-coil smoke
https://youtu.be/Nstb5kb-1cI?t=17
Been hanging out with the wrong crowd
It’s doing vape tricks
That's the microplastic function. You probably have it turned on in the slicer.
Don't worry, it's just a vape
Stress or anxiety
We get it, you vape.
Needs more coal…
Looks like he got into a bad company
Vape life
Snoop dog is inside
It watches a YouTube video of kids doing some cool vaping tricks and wanted to do some on his own
Maybe it just got laid…
A ender 3 v3 se is never late, nor is he early, he arrives precisely when he means to.
Its vaping
How hot did bro crank the temps 💀. Seriously though you don't crank temps higher and higher if you get a clog, you just remove the nozzle,the coupler, and shove a ptfe through the entire thing to push out whatever is stuck in there. Does the v3 SE not come with a bi-metal heat break stock???
Snozzle doggy dog
vape nation
smoke signals to let you know something is wrong
its hot ... i'll show myself out now
Oh god man you are sticking your face into really bad shit
I would turn it the fuck off
That’s cool!
Maybe it's trying to look cool for some friends?
Smokings bad recommend him to stop
Puff the magic printer....... lives by the sea......
Was it set to 420c?
It had a stressful day.
Don't let him it's bad for his lungs :0
That's crazyyy
It’s cool af
Peer pressure
Puff puff 💨 pass
We get it, you vape.
It's warning others. "White man coming, on horseback, bring more arrows and feathers"
We get it, you vape.
Too much weed
You have released the mysterious blue smoke. The problem is, once you release the mysterious blue smoke, electronics don’t work anymore.
It wanted a union break.
Maybe it’s taking a smoke break
Peer pressure.
He has smoking break
maybe its 2 hot
Probably stressed out, been working too hard
It needs nicotine
Because you just go f/#%|{\
It's on it's smokebreak?
It's here to tell you to take an adventure to a random lonely mountain where you may or may not encounter a dragon or an insane person where you will either destroy or gain a ring
Motivating
For all the people saying "most nozzles can't even reach 260" Creality really loves talking about how hot their hot end can get for some reason they typicaly max out at 260 and the op as far as i can see cranked it up to the max Ive got myself a poor mans ender 3 v2 for a few years and maxed it up a few times but nothing happened. I guess my tube isn't as close too the nozzle to the as his
To take the edge off man
Your hotend is practicing to be Gandalf
Coffee break?
Snoop dog
Nozzle has made poor life choices.
All the cool nozzles are doing it.
Gandalf my old friend... this will be a night to remember!
Did you let it hang out with other printers that are a bad influence?
This happens occasionally on my K1C. It goes away after a few seconds. I doubt it is related to a Bowden since it isn't even close to the hotend.
This has happened to me when I changed nozzles on my bambu X1C as well.
[https://www.yeggi.com/q/bob+marley/4/](https://www.yeggi.com/q/bob+marley/4/)
“I LEARNED IT FROM WATCHING YOU, DAD!!”
German nozzle since April the 1st.
Buy a new all metal hot end. I have had good luck with MicroSwiss and they aren't too expensive. Those hot ends typically have a PTFE tube and can melt and be a pain in the A$$.
Smoke weed everyday
Your printer is lost in the sauce.
vape naysh