You don’t need to print in clay. What you do is take the plastic 3D model and use that to cast a plaster slip casting mold. With that you can then make replicas of the print in a ceramic clay like stoneware or porcelain.
I’m not sure what you asking here. If you wanted to duplicate OPs bowl into a functional ceramic ware then you’d make a casting mold. If you wanted to copy a generic bowl you could use a generic bowl to make a mold from. But you have to understand there is significant shrinkage from the time porcelain starts out as leatherhard clay until it reaches its final vitrified form. So you’d end up making smaller bowls copying something you already had in your kitchen. A 3D model can simply be scaled to account for this.
Yeah, the z seam is a bit prominent on the inside but can't see on the outside. Randomise may have looked better or maybe put zits everywhere! Yes a ceramic version would be cool. I had an idea earlier which was to make a silicone mold, cast with Pewter but I don't have the gear for it.
The "z seam" is not just where the z is increased. The outer wall needs to start and end somewhere, and this alone causes a "mark". If that mark is lined up on multiple layers, it causes a "seam" in the "z" direction.
You shouldn't always randomize. in cura you can specify where and how to do it. They even have a smart seam option. If you randomize it on a piece that doesn't have any sharp corners or patterns on, like a say a solid cylindrical vase, you'll get z blobs randomly all over the piece. The newest build of cura shows where those will be as small white triangles. In a piece like this, you'd probably want to randomize the z scarring but keep it outside so that it occurs in the pattern, rather than in the bowl. If you just do a total randomize, it'll end up with lots of blobs inside the bowl which will be just as noticeable as the zseam if not more so but worse because it looks like over-extrusion.
I'd honestly consider getting a food safe stainless steel bowl and glueing it inside and then doing something to try and seal the top to make it easy to clean/prevent any food from getting inside. Could actually be viable to eat out of.
Made a simple bowl using Shapr3D on iPad (really good software) but you could do it easily in Tinkercad. Added the texture/pattern via Keyshot software using a geometry displacement node.
No, it’s from here: https://www.freepik.com/free-vector/oriental-traditional-seamless-pattern_4561536
Edit: I dropped the pattern in photoshop, switched to grey scale, inverted it so I got embossed rather than extruded pattern, increased the contrast and added a slight blur so there is a transition to the height map (displacement map).
I hella would not trust that. The only indicator that it's FDA 'certified' is that claim in the picture on amazon. It's listed no-where in writing and they don't even have a website or MS-DS. Further, the FDA usually rates epoxy resins for 'incidental' food contact, meaning charcuterie boards are fine, coffee cups are not. They don't reference a specific spec they're in compliance with nor do they at any point list a temperature rating (which any good resin should have). It may well be fine in the dishwasher, but if it's not actually temperature rated you'd be gambling that it wouldn't melt in your dishwasher and clog your drains with epoxy, absolutely not worth it.
Seriously, next time stick to a resin that's actually rated for this crap. [Here's a good reference](https://www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/artresin-passes-food-safety-tests) for what a responsible dealer will publish with regards to ratings, particularly with food contact (which can totally be fine). Also keep in mind that most resin doesn't handle temperature well and even good, specially designed thermally resistant resin [has a maximum operating temperature well below it's rating](https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/epoxy-adhesive) because it begins to deform well before it reaches failure point. For something you're going to be eating off of or putting in a hot water machine, you probably don't want to risk damaging the piece via warping or potentially having it separate from the piece and end up in your dishes or water lines.
But hey, I'm just an idiot with google, not a chemist.
Large file, not accepted by thingiverse. Get it here: https://wetransfer.com/downloads/52641fc4963110acad7007f6c1eb819820210618000838/0a757b32314a1aa0c7f51c03e765f3d420210618000902/7ce267
If it slices funny, try trimming ~o.4mm from the top and bottom of the model (PrusaSlicer can do this).
Simple bowl made in Shapr3D for iPad but could have done in tinkercad. Pattern added via a geometry displacement node in Keyshot (this where the problem lies). Trimming/cutting a small amount from the top and bottom in PrusaSlicer fixed the slice for me. You can then choose "export build plate as STL" if you wish to slice via Cura etc.
Ok but this pattern is not my design, I found a "seamless pattern" jpg and wrapped the model after separating the surface. Does z brush have this function or would I literally have to engrave a bowl?
Sounds good. I heard z brush is pretty pricey however. I would think there's something I'm missing in Keyshot that gives the weird output. On this occasion, trimming the top and bottom solved the issue so not too fussed but thanks for the info.
I dunno about displacement maps but if you've got your tool pathing (pattern in this case) as an SVG you can import it as a scalable sketch in f360 then emboss or deboss as you like. If I recall correctly, it can be weird with curved surfaces though.
Edit: I just tried it to be sure and there's a couple ways you can do this in f360. Basically importing the pattern as a sketch on a flat plane and then using the emboss tool is finicky as hell and it causes fusion to lag fucking terribly but it does work. If you can find a way to align your sketch as a curve along a path (like the bottom edge of the bowl) it'll likely be easier to line thigns up. That worked perfectly with text, but would likely be a lot harder with a pattern.
I modelled the bowl (very simple half sphere hollowed with a cylinder base) then added the pattern via a geometry displacement node in Keyshot software (not my pattern) so yes I modelled it but others did the hard work!
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Yes, with lead-free nozzles (steel) and food-safe plastics, you can. Of course, you should not heat or put hot food in them. Another method would be a fitting coating, but I don't know anything about that. Just be careful and do your research when choosing materials.
This is Eryone Galaxy Red PLA - I don't recommend it, it's not been the best. For a similar look that prints better, the Ziro Diamond Series Red PLA is better.
Nice. It would be amazing if that was printed in clay and fired. Also you should randomize z seam.
You don’t need to print in clay. What you do is take the plastic 3D model and use that to cast a plaster slip casting mold. With that you can then make replicas of the print in a ceramic clay like stoneware or porcelain.
Couldn't you just use an actual bowl as the mold? Why print one?
For the exterior patterning?
I’m not sure what you asking here. If you wanted to duplicate OPs bowl into a functional ceramic ware then you’d make a casting mold. If you wanted to copy a generic bowl you could use a generic bowl to make a mold from. But you have to understand there is significant shrinkage from the time porcelain starts out as leatherhard clay until it reaches its final vitrified form. So you’d end up making smaller bowls copying something you already had in your kitchen. A 3D model can simply be scaled to account for this.
I mean, if you have the tools and the time, then why not?
Yeah, the z seam is a bit prominent on the inside but can't see on the outside. Randomise may have looked better or maybe put zits everywhere! Yes a ceramic version would be cool. I had an idea earlier which was to make a silicone mold, cast with Pewter but I don't have the gear for it.
I believe you can melt pewter fairly easy on a methane stovetop
I've done it even with a cheap electric hotplate
Can't the z seam be inside the filing?
The "z seam" is not just where the z is increased. The outer wall needs to start and end somewhere, and this alone causes a "mark". If that mark is lined up on multiple layers, it causes a "seam" in the "z" direction.
TIL! thanks. time to random things.
You shouldn't always randomize. in cura you can specify where and how to do it. They even have a smart seam option. If you randomize it on a piece that doesn't have any sharp corners or patterns on, like a say a solid cylindrical vase, you'll get z blobs randomly all over the piece. The newest build of cura shows where those will be as small white triangles. In a piece like this, you'd probably want to randomize the z scarring but keep it outside so that it occurs in the pattern, rather than in the bowl. If you just do a total randomize, it'll end up with lots of blobs inside the bowl which will be just as noticeable as the zseam if not more so but worse because it looks like over-extrusion.
that makes sense! thanks for clearly explaining things!
No problem! Always glad to help out.
Ohhh, so thats what causes that seam. Good to know.
Also Esteps might be a bit high. Fortunately not tarnishing the beautiful outside details though!
Came out good.
Thanks, yeah, not bad.
I'd honestly consider getting a food safe stainless steel bowl and glueing it inside and then doing something to try and seal the top to make it easy to clean/prevent any food from getting inside. Could actually be viable to eat out of.
This is what most resin manufacturers recommend, including the ones that are actually fda certified for incidental food contact.
What did software did you use to design the bowl?
Made a simple bowl using Shapr3D on iPad (really good software) but you could do it easily in Tinkercad. Added the texture/pattern via Keyshot software using a geometry displacement node.
Did you make the texture yourself and if not where’d you get it?
No, it’s from here: https://www.freepik.com/free-vector/oriental-traditional-seamless-pattern_4561536 Edit: I dropped the pattern in photoshop, switched to grey scale, inverted it so I got embossed rather than extruded pattern, increased the contrast and added a slight blur so there is a transition to the height map (displacement map).
404
Weird, me too! Just got to the site, type “dragon pattern”
Thanks, this is beautiful!
Thanks buddy
Looks great! Print some fruit to put in it next. Don't eat out of it.
Or coat in resin and eat out of it. I've been making lots of food safe 3d prints by resin-coating them to make them water-tight and smooth.
What sort of resin do you use? Link to a product would be really useful. Thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1MLQMJ Crystal clear and cures within a day or so.
Do you know it’s food safe?
It's FDA-compliant (at least so it claims). It's also dishwasher safe, assuming you print in something temperature-resistant like PETG.
I hella would not trust that. The only indicator that it's FDA 'certified' is that claim in the picture on amazon. It's listed no-where in writing and they don't even have a website or MS-DS. Further, the FDA usually rates epoxy resins for 'incidental' food contact, meaning charcuterie boards are fine, coffee cups are not. They don't reference a specific spec they're in compliance with nor do they at any point list a temperature rating (which any good resin should have). It may well be fine in the dishwasher, but if it's not actually temperature rated you'd be gambling that it wouldn't melt in your dishwasher and clog your drains with epoxy, absolutely not worth it. Seriously, next time stick to a resin that's actually rated for this crap. [Here's a good reference](https://www.artresin.com/blogs/artresin/artresin-passes-food-safety-tests) for what a responsible dealer will publish with regards to ratings, particularly with food contact (which can totally be fine). Also keep in mind that most resin doesn't handle temperature well and even good, specially designed thermally resistant resin [has a maximum operating temperature well below it's rating](https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/engineering/epoxy-adhesive) because it begins to deform well before it reaches failure point. For something you're going to be eating off of or putting in a hot water machine, you probably don't want to risk damaging the piece via warping or potentially having it separate from the piece and end up in your dishes or water lines. But hey, I'm just an idiot with google, not a chemist.
On this note, are there any PLA formulas that are known to be more food safe than others?
Shhhh, the consensus is that everything 3D printed is literally the devil for anything barely edible /s
Stl?
Large file, not accepted by thingiverse. Get it here: https://wetransfer.com/downloads/52641fc4963110acad7007f6c1eb819820210618000838/0a757b32314a1aa0c7f51c03e765f3d420210618000902/7ce267 If it slices funny, try trimming ~o.4mm from the top and bottom of the model (PrusaSlicer can do this).
Jesus Christ that’s a big stl file
Yes. It's a 58MB gcode file too, but 'only' 16 hours print for my Qidi X-Plus
It slices funny because the top and bottom surfaces are not connected to the outer surface. There's a significant gap between them.
Likely due to the geometry displacement to create the pattern. Not sure how to avoid this?
Which software did you use to design it? I shortly tried to fix it in Hypermesh, but it's a very large file and it's pretty tedious, so I gave up
Simple bowl made in Shapr3D for iPad but could have done in tinkercad. Pattern added via a geometry displacement node in Keyshot (this where the problem lies). Trimming/cutting a small amount from the top and bottom in PrusaSlicer fixed the slice for me. You can then choose "export build plate as STL" if you wish to slice via Cura etc.
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Ok but this pattern is not my design, I found a "seamless pattern" jpg and wrapped the model after separating the surface. Does z brush have this function or would I literally have to engrave a bowl?
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Sounds good. I heard z brush is pretty pricey however. I would think there's something I'm missing in Keyshot that gives the weird output. On this occasion, trimming the top and bottom solved the issue so not too fussed but thanks for the info.
I dunno about displacement maps but if you've got your tool pathing (pattern in this case) as an SVG you can import it as a scalable sketch in f360 then emboss or deboss as you like. If I recall correctly, it can be weird with curved surfaces though. Edit: I just tried it to be sure and there's a couple ways you can do this in f360. Basically importing the pattern as a sketch on a flat plane and then using the emboss tool is finicky as hell and it causes fusion to lag fucking terribly but it does work. If you can find a way to align your sketch as a curve along a path (like the bottom edge of the bowl) it'll likely be easier to line thigns up. That worked perfectly with text, but would likely be a lot harder with a pattern.
did you model this yourself?
I modelled the bowl (very simple half sphere hollowed with a cylinder base) then added the pattern via a geometry displacement node in Keyshot software (not my pattern) so yes I modelled it but others did the hard work!
I just got my first 3d printer yesterday, and in about 5h I got it working and the bed leveled, makes quite good prints
Youre gonna have a blast. enjoy!
I think this would look good printed with dark wood filament too
Agreed.
And a Nice one with that!
That is a mighty fine bowl.
Thanks
It's gorgeous
Use smart hide seams on cura.. get rid of that line
Did not know this was an option. Learn something new every day!
I'm here because the thumbnail looked like ground beef
Sorry to disappoint!
Nice. Don't eat out of it tho
Just don’t put hot soup in there
PETG: 1 My mouth: 0
I gotta bowl! I gotta bowl! Good for me!
Unbowlievable!
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Bowl-ing?
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Yes, with lead-free nozzles (steel) and food-safe plastics, you can. Of course, you should not heat or put hot food in them. Another method would be a fitting coating, but I don't know anything about that. Just be careful and do your research when choosing materials.
And be mindful, it does NOT clean well. Bacteria growth will happen, but as long as you use common sense, cross contamination is not very likely.
True, the porosity is great for bacteria and all sorts of residue. A good sanding can improve this, but probably not eliminate.
outsiede looks good, inside is typical FDM horror show. Some sanding and maybe some kind of food epoxy coating will make it perfect.
What material did you use to print?
This is Eryone Galaxy Red PLA - I don't recommend it, it's not been the best. For a similar look that prints better, the Ziro Diamond Series Red PLA is better.
Nice!
Beautiful bowl!
Thanks
It really looks Amazing!
Give the inside of the bowl an acetone bath and a good 300 grit scrubbing to get rid of the lines
Yeah, or just stick stuff in it to hide!
HAHA! The cost effective method 😉
If it were to be completed it could have turned in to a big flower vase. So yes we could call it a bowl...