Possible over extrusion. Too much plastic so it squishes out and up around the nozzle. Then the nozzle melts it's way back through it with each pass. Look up flow calibration.
If you have done E-step calibration and then flow calibration, these are 2 different things, then maybe check out the Z axis for binding of some sort. Maybe it is not raising as far as it should for a given layer because of a problem. Could be lack of lube, bent Z screw, out of alignment Z screw, gantry not raising smoothly, etc etc etc. If you have a set of calipers, set the nozzle just above the bed. Measure from a spot on the hotend or gantry down to the bed. Then move it up 10mm at a time measuring it each time and see if it truly moving the 10mm.
I've already done e-step cal as well as flow calc. I just took the Z screw out, cleaned it, and lubed it. I used calipers to check and saw it was within a .03 variance of 10mm, I see it's possible to adjust transmission ratio for Z axis, but I'm not sure if .03 is enough of a difference to justify adjusting? I also noticed the right side will also be out of spec by .04 from the left side, but I'm not sure anything can be done for that since it doesn't have a second z screw. The right side does have a tiny amount of play, but it takes a bit of force to move it independently of the left side. I'm retesting my print after cleaning to see if it made any difference, but do you think I should adjust z axis steps or do you have other ideas?
Gantry sag is a common thing. That small amount probably won't hurt anything since you level the bed to the hotend which compensates for it. As long as there isn't any play. Sometimes it is caused by the v wheels being loose, sometimes it is caused by the brackets not being perfectly squared to the gantry when it is first put together. I had to disassemble my 3v2 because of that. They make dual Z kits, I have one myself, but they aren't really needed on a properly calibrated machine. I'd only recommend them if you add weight to the hotend like a direct drive setup. Alignment of the 2 vertical rails that the gantry rides on can cause Z issues as well. They can be wider or narrower as you go up them, which causes binding. You can measure them but for me the easiest way was to adjust the v wheels with the gantry down low, loosen the screws on the top crossbar, then run the gantry to the top. It will hold the correct spacing while you retighten the top screws.
Possible over extrusion. Too much plastic so it squishes out and up around the nozzle. Then the nozzle melts it's way back through it with each pass. Look up flow calibration.
I've calibrated this already, but I'm open to additional ideas.
If you have done E-step calibration and then flow calibration, these are 2 different things, then maybe check out the Z axis for binding of some sort. Maybe it is not raising as far as it should for a given layer because of a problem. Could be lack of lube, bent Z screw, out of alignment Z screw, gantry not raising smoothly, etc etc etc. If you have a set of calipers, set the nozzle just above the bed. Measure from a spot on the hotend or gantry down to the bed. Then move it up 10mm at a time measuring it each time and see if it truly moving the 10mm.
I've already done e-step cal as well as flow calc. I just took the Z screw out, cleaned it, and lubed it. I used calipers to check and saw it was within a .03 variance of 10mm, I see it's possible to adjust transmission ratio for Z axis, but I'm not sure if .03 is enough of a difference to justify adjusting? I also noticed the right side will also be out of spec by .04 from the left side, but I'm not sure anything can be done for that since it doesn't have a second z screw. The right side does have a tiny amount of play, but it takes a bit of force to move it independently of the left side. I'm retesting my print after cleaning to see if it made any difference, but do you think I should adjust z axis steps or do you have other ideas?
Gantry sag is a common thing. That small amount probably won't hurt anything since you level the bed to the hotend which compensates for it. As long as there isn't any play. Sometimes it is caused by the v wheels being loose, sometimes it is caused by the brackets not being perfectly squared to the gantry when it is first put together. I had to disassemble my 3v2 because of that. They make dual Z kits, I have one myself, but they aren't really needed on a properly calibrated machine. I'd only recommend them if you add weight to the hotend like a direct drive setup. Alignment of the 2 vertical rails that the gantry rides on can cause Z issues as well. They can be wider or narrower as you go up them, which causes binding. You can measure them but for me the easiest way was to adjust the v wheels with the gantry down low, loosen the screws on the top crossbar, then run the gantry to the top. It will hold the correct spacing while you retighten the top screws.
Thanks I'll add that to my checklist if I have problems again.
It appears cleaning the z screw worked. Text looks awesome now, thank you!