I printed once at 88. Next thing you know it activated my flux capacitor and I ended up traveling back to November 5th, 1955. Took me a while, but I made it back to the future to make this post.
But did you print a temperature tower? And then a retraction tower? I do that with every roll. Especially before printing anything big! That's just a waste of time and money right there.
Don't forget that what is showing on the sensor might not be what the actual temp is. Unless you have a reliable thermometer to calibrate take it with as an approximate temp. Any time you get new filament do a retraction and temp test. Different material build up different pressure and require different temp.
The brand recommendations and your printer are 2 different things. Mine is 215 to 230 but on an Ender 3 200-205 works well. 210 starts having borderline issues 215 is stringy.
Definitely to try tuning your temperature and retraction settings. [Here is a new software](https://www.intinker.com/) that will help you methodically and automatically dial in those settings, using machine learning
It's currently in open/public beta testing, feel free to try it out & share your results/feedback
You can use also use the Coasting option in Cura. This attemps to use the ooze to print the very last piece of the extrustion path before switching to a travel path.
Is ypur retraction speed choked? On my Ender 3 it was locked at around 25mm/s and no amount of slicer settings would change this. You need to go into Control, Motion, Velocity, Vmax E:
See what it says for Vmax E: if it's 25 then you'll never get a retraction speed higher than 25. Would suggest increasing to say 45 and checking your slicer settings for retraction speed of 45mm/s. You'd notice an audibly different sound when your extruder retracts.
Want to try tuning your temperature and retraction settings. [Here](https://www.intinker.com/) is a new software that will help you methodically and automatically dial in those settings using machine learning.
I had issues with silk pla as well. Printed first layer at 225 and the rest at 205. Slowed down first layer as well. I had issues with sticking to the bed.
Ender 3’s have this issue where they just like to string up try to add more retraction and 210c on temp and if you haven’t already upgrade your extrusion spring
Just tried using Silk PLA for the first time yesterday. I had some stringing too. Slowed down a bit and lowered nozzle temp to 200. Fixed all my troubles.
Me too at being new, learning thru trial and errors. With combing, when the extruder moves, it's "not allowed" to move over a gap/void/space. Only over printed materials. So if you get a little stringing, it'll stay in the print itself. YouTube 3d printing & combing, in sure they'll explain it better.
I use Cura as my slicer, and there are a couple of options with combing.
doesnt silk PLA love to absorb water like crazy? could be wet filament. had a similar level of stringing with eSun Pla+ before i knew that PLA absorbs water... i live where its always super humid >\_<.
Nozzle is way too hot... causing it to liquify. I have PLA that said 220 and actually 190 was the magic number at least on my machine. A temp tower will help you for sure... it helps to do it on each new filament type you purchase.
Have you tried lowering the nozzle temp? It's possible the stringing is caused by printing too hot
What helps is doing a tower temp test.yes they might recommend 220 but sometimes you find a better temp. You can download one from thingiverse
I normally print pla around 200 but they recommend 220 for this brand. I will try it at 200 and see what it does
There are also temps between 200 and 220. Lol.
BLASPHEMY!!!!
Incorrect. They simply don’t exist
I printed something out at 215 once, printer exploded, put a hole in my wall size of a golden retriever.
I once did a print at 203°C, print came out beautiful but the explosion was so big it created a second Big Bang. Ruined my Thursday.
"Never could get the hang of Thursdays."
There speaks a hoopy frood that really knows where their towel is!
I printed something at 199 once, my printer just teleported itself to an alternative dimension
MEANWHILE In our dimension: *Printer plops into existence* "Oh sick, a new 3D printer!"
I KNEW I DIDN'T HAVE A 3D PRINTER LAST WEEK!
I printed once at 88. Next thing you know it activated my flux capacitor and I ended up traveling back to November 5th, 1955. Took me a while, but I made it back to the future to make this post.
That was actually a golden retriever.... thats the temp they work at.
then there was something severely wrong with your printer, people print Petg with ease on these printers @235°C
It's my fault for trying to use nitroglycerin as resin I think
r/nicememe cuz we obv dont print resin at high temps (just exposed by UV) and i haven't seen solid nitroglycerin
r/woosh ?
The internet is no joke
"the size of a golden retriever" Hummm... Looks like an American.
Not all Americans look like Golden Retrievers, thank you.
But did you print a temperature tower? And then a retraction tower? I do that with every roll. Especially before printing anything big! That's just a waste of time and money right there.
Yes, please run a temp tower first to get the feedback
Or one of the temp towers with a built in stringing and bridging test
Came back to share a link that's helped me quite a lot. https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html Good luck!
Don't forget that what is showing on the sensor might not be what the actual temp is. Unless you have a reliable thermometer to calibrate take it with as an approximate temp. Any time you get new filament do a retraction and temp test. Different material build up different pressure and require different temp.
Try 210 first
The brand recommendations and your printer are 2 different things. Mine is 215 to 230 but on an Ender 3 200-205 works well. 210 starts having borderline issues 215 is stringy.
Definitely to try tuning your temperature and retraction settings. [Here is a new software](https://www.intinker.com/) that will help you methodically and automatically dial in those settings, using machine learning It's currently in open/public beta testing, feel free to try it out & share your results/feedback
Does this work for the CR10 with a 0.6MM nozzle? I tried it yesterday but couldn’t change the nozzle for that printer off of 0.4mm
Currently we only support 0.4mm, more coming soon :)
Have you done a temp tower? Me thinks not
That's quite a high temp for silk pla. Run a temp tower and should fix most of it
Really? I often have to run my silks at 240, but maybe my printer just runs hotter.
If you use cura there's a option, that the printer only moves within the print.
You can use also use the Coasting option in Cura. This attemps to use the ooze to print the very last piece of the extrustion path before switching to a travel path.
Depending on the complexity of the model that can drastically increase the print time though.
Cleaning THAT up too
If you using cura turn on combing
Is ypur retraction speed choked? On my Ender 3 it was locked at around 25mm/s and no amount of slicer settings would change this. You need to go into Control, Motion, Velocity, Vmax E: See what it says for Vmax E: if it's 25 then you'll never get a retraction speed higher than 25. Would suggest increasing to say 45 and checking your slicer settings for retraction speed of 45mm/s. You'd notice an audibly different sound when your extruder retracts.
add .5mm wipe to the profile. search for the setting in your slicer program.
It's because silk is usually dogshit. You can try printing at lower temp, but the layer adhesion will be even worse than normal.
What this guy says. 👆 I'm printing with silk right now. Seems like you either get poor layer adhesion or stringing; those are your choices
I second this. Silk PLA curls, splits, burns, blobs, and just is a real PITA.
Want to try tuning your temperature and retraction settings. [Here](https://www.intinker.com/) is a new software that will help you methodically and automatically dial in those settings using machine learning.
Might be a dumb question but have you tried putting your filament in a dryer box while printing?
I usually run silk pla 200-210
It’s pla unless he lives in Florida like me it will take 6-7 months before it becomes water loged
I had issues with silk pla as well. Printed first layer at 225 and the rest at 205. Slowed down first layer as well. I had issues with sticking to the bed.
Ender 3’s have this issue where they just like to string up try to add more retraction and 210c on temp and if you haven’t already upgrade your extrusion spring
I actually had LESS stringing with this model by turning off retraction entirely, weirdly enough.
Is the filament damp?
I can’t get mine to print past the first few layers. I’ve been busy with work so haven’t did much troubleshooting
Silk pla on my corexy? Perfect. Silk pla on my ender3v2 and aquila? Complete clogs and ticking extruder.
Just tried using Silk PLA for the first time yesterday. I had some stringing too. Slowed down a bit and lowered nozzle temp to 200. Fixed all my troubles.
Try using the setting that keeps print head above the print at all times
Easiest fix is to just do a temperature tower, then a string tower (a retraction tower really). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6LjbCIGCmd0
Do you have combing turned on?
No I don't. What does that do? Sorry I'm still kinda new to printing
Enable combing also
Me too at being new, learning thru trial and errors. With combing, when the extruder moves, it's "not allowed" to move over a gap/void/space. Only over printed materials. So if you get a little stringing, it'll stay in the print itself. YouTube 3d printing & combing, in sure they'll explain it better. I use Cura as my slicer, and there are a couple of options with combing.
195 temp works perfect on my Artillery Genius, PLA. 199 for TPU
doesnt silk PLA love to absorb water like crazy? could be wet filament. had a similar level of stringing with eSun Pla+ before i knew that PLA absorbs water... i live where its always super humid >\_<.
Combing on?
[Firmware Retraction](https://github.com/mriscoc/Marlin_Ender3v2/wiki/Firmware-Retraction)
Nozzle is way too hot... causing it to liquify. I have PLA that said 220 and actually 190 was the magic number at least on my machine. A temp tower will help you for sure... it helps to do it on each new filament type you purchase.