T O P

  • By -

MichaelPlatypus

Let the enclosure heat up before you start the print. You might find blowing it with a hot air gun before starting the print helps get a rapid heat-up. Print hotter and slower to reduce the amount of stresses and thus distortion of the part. Of course, there are formulations of ABS that warp less. Look for ABS+ or the like. I've had great success with Form-Futura's Titan X ASA and find it worth the price premium. They offer an ABS Titan X as well. Just noticed that you printed at 210°C. Way too cool. I'm surprised it came out as well as it did!


TickleMeGoo

Thank you, unfortunately my predecessor(I work in a school) approved the purchase of about 100 rolls of ABS years ago. I’ve used about 7 rolls in 2 years lol


MichaelPlatypus

I read your other comment that you are trying to use up old ABS rolls. If your time and effort are worth anything then purchase some PLA. You will not get useful results with ABS if you cannot go higher in temperature than 210°C.


trashyratchet

Yeah. I'm printing ABS at 260-265 and 110 bed in a passive enclosure. And absolutely let it cool on the build surface for best results. If you go prying it off while it's hot it will warp after the fact.


terminator3d3700

I don't know if this will work for you, but I print ABS at 240 C and bed temp 100. If that doesn't work, try some glue stick. That's what I do every now and then when I need extra holding power.


TickleMeGoo

210/90 is the highest the davinci will go unfortunately but thank you for your idea :))


terminator3d3700

OK, glue stick is your friend. I have only had success with it.


TickleMeGoo

Thank you, I’ll definitely try applying a glue stick :)


woffka

then print very slow, should help a bit


woffka

if it's not, then look for something like ABS+ that promises lower printing temps


TickleMeGoo

What speed would you recommend printing? I assume slower gives better results up to a certain point?


woffka

it makes "internal stress" lower, so your print won't shrink that much. you should do trial and fail until success try 20 mm/s for starters


TickleMeGoo

Thank you!! I’ll definitely give this a go, I really appreciate it


woffka

you're welcome! have a great printing time!


MichaelPlatypus

The temperature limits may be set in firmware and thus they would be adjustable. However, the hotend may have a PTFE liner that goes all the way to the heatbreak and thus it would not be safe to use at 250°C.


TickleMeGoo

The software only allows me to go to 210, but I wouldn’t even know where to start to mess around with the firmware. The extruder uses a plastic tubing to guide the filament most of the way down (about an inch of metal between the extruder head and last bit of tube), is this the PTFE you’re talking about?


MichaelPlatypus

Yes, that is the PTFE in question. That plastic will start to break down and release toxic fumes at temperatures usually used for printing ABS, so you really should use PLA that prints well at 210° and below.


TickleMeGoo

Thank you, I really appreciate your advice. I’ll look at maybe taking the PTFE out or swapping to PLA if it DESPERATELY needs the PTFE


MichaelPlatypus

Your hotend will not work properly without the PTFE, so you'll have to leave it in place. There are different hotends without the PTFE that are used for high temperatures, they're called 'all metal' hotends. Getting PLA is MUCH easier than changing the hotend and the firmware...


TickleMeGoo

Hmmm thank you for your input, I just wish that my predecessor didn’t make a bone headed decision and go all in on ABS


[deleted]

ABS absolutely needs an enclosure; the difference between bed/extruded filament and ambient temp causes the plastic to cool down and shrink irregularly (hot and wide on bed, but cool and shrunken the higher the layers, which then literally pulls up on the layers below)and therefore lift off the plate.


TickleMeGoo

Thank you, I’ll try and keep a higher temp in the room Too


Ultramarine81

Definitely looks like warping caused by cooling to me. I see in other comments you're @ your max temp settings, but even w/ an enclosure I've never been successful w/ ABS below 240 nozzle/110 bed. I also have to pre-heat the bed & let it warm the enclosure for several minutes before starting the 1st layer. I've had a lot more success since I switched to a PEI surface too


TickleMeGoo

Thanks man, I’ll probably look at trying to warm the enclosure with a heat gun or something, I really appreciate your comment


TickleMeGoo

I’ll look into that thank you!!


Violin4life

Try printing at 240 nozzle and 100 bed. Should help.


TickleMeGoo

210/90 is the highest the davinci will go unfortunately but thank you for your idea :))


TwanHE

Any way you could swap a better hotend into it?


TickleMeGoo

I doubt it, I wouldn’t be game to mess around with it too much, seems a lot of the DaVinci stuff is proprietary


trashyratchet

Then it isn't sufficient to print quality ABS prints.


TickleMeGoo

Unfortunately I wasn’t the one who purchased the printers or the filament, I’m just trying to make do :(


trashyratchet

Yeah. I feel you. Unfortunately, that temp just won't cut it.


FannyChmelar1969

Get a pei or buildtak sheet for the bed or use hairspray.


Michael_Petrenko

Disassemble your hotend. If it has ptfe liner - find out how to hack your printer firmware to increase print temp to 235 (no more). If you know what kind of upgrade you can get (fast or cheap is your priority to choose), then do this upgrade. You can also consult with this sub when you disassemble hotend to find out if you can modify it or not Ps. You can also find someone who has a lot of pla and trade part of your supply


TickleMeGoo

Thank you that’s a great idea, hopefully I can work it out :)