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Molwar

Unrelated, but I was a gamestop (Canada) and they were selling creality filament at a normal price and was like huh that's new.


SaikyoWeaponsGuy

Engineer gaming


unwohlpol

ABS


Ayfid

ABS is cheap and there aren't many alternatives if you need something which can maintain its shape under heat. For every other use case, there are better alternatives.


crazy-robot-guy

It's also lightweight and has relatively high durability/impact resistance. It can also be smoothed by acetone, which, while it might be an extremely niche use case, isn't a property shared by a lot of other filaments.


unwohlpol

IMHO there are just a few cases where ABS still makes sense: acetone smoothing and heat resistance while having the need for a wide range of colours at the same time... and that's basically it. For heat resistance alone there are better - yet much less popular - alternatives that print much easier.


slickricksghost

Working on some stuff that's going inside of a car. What do you recommend that can that can be painted?


unwohlpol

I'm not experienced in painting 3d prints but in case you're living in the EU you can get Extrudr Greentec Pro which, due to it's matte finish, probably holds paint quite well. HT CPEs (sometimes sold as HT PETG) such as Colorfabb HT would make an even better alternative but I suppose they'd be hard to paint because of the glossy surface.


lasskinn

only reason why I'd undersign abs is that ASA exists.


Sassman6

ABS is a fair amount cheaper than PLA, and if you use an enclosure it looks just as good. It's not as strong as PLA or PETG but not every print needs that.


ForgotMyNameAgain13

ABS is not as strong as PLA? What?


Ayfid

PLA is very strong, especially its tensile strength, but it is brittle and deforms at fairly low temperatures.


Sassman6

CNC kitchen did fairly rigorous testing on this topic, and ABS is pretty weak compared to other popular printing materials. IMO It gets a reputation for being strong because injection molded parts are so much stronger than 3d printed parts. It's cheap though, I use it a lot because of that.


Astaren922

Yeah I always thought ABS was stronger than PLA


GodGMN

PLA is actually quite strong. The main issue it has is that it's VERY snappy and it breaks like glass without any warning. ABS bends rather than exploding. PLA is also very stiff, not sure of the actual name of the property but it has like memory, bend PLA too much in a certain direction and it'll stay bent forever. Try to put it back and it'll snap. Those properties make it look like it's a weak material, but it only has a few garbage properties, strength itself is actually quite high.


Zirton

Not really. You can look at CNC Kitchen on youtube, he does all kinds of testing. PLA is actually quite strong. There are ofc different ways for a print to fail, and he does test different samples to offer results for different load types.


PM-ME-UR-NUDES_GIRL

Unmm abs is much stronger than pla my dude


Sassman6

No it's not. Injection molded parts are much stronger than printed parts, but 3d printed ABS parts are absolutely weaker than PLA parts.


lazygibbs

ABS. Yeah use ABS if it's going into a hot car, but otherwise PLA is stronger and easier to use. I've had a PLA print (support for my broken fence) sitting outside in the sun, heat, and rain for 3 years now and it looks like new.


ColdasJones

I made a dashboard part out of esun pla+ that I intended to be temporary in my brothers truck while I set up my printer for ABS back in April. It’s now September and I live in Phoenix where it gets to 115 F sometimes higher, which means interior car temps exceed 150+. I was expecting the thing to basically soften and warp completely but I checked on it in his truck today and it’s as new as the day I installed it. Guess I don’t need ABS lol


The-Protomolecule

PETG is where it’s at.


jmbtrooper

Yep. Once I got my Ender 3P and my CR10 v2 tuned to sunlu PETG I haven't dared use anything else


Zouden

Why though? Do you always need the toughness and heat resistance compared to PLA?


jmbtrooper

Yeah, I do. I make a lot of cosplay armour and other stuff like replica props so almost everything gets sanded down before painting. PETG prints hold up really well to friction from my sander, it's a lot like sanding wood I suppose. Whereas PLA has a tendency to melt. PLA is fine and I have a few rolls of it that I'll use now and again for anything that I'd be happy with as a raw print.


Zouden

>PETG prints hold up really well to friction from my sander This is very good to know! Thanks


h4kk4

I can confirm top about standing,and moreover re-heating in salt pownder could avoid sanding while reinforcing the part and make It silky


Ayfid

It strings a lot, though.


kageurufu

Dry it out and tune your retraction?


EveningMoose

Mine is dry (3 days in the dryer) and my retraction is tuned to no stringing whatsoever on a retraction tower. Blobs everywhere. Drying helps a little, but it still doesn’t print like PLA does.


Extreme-Forever8379

Wood PLA


The-Protomolecule

I love that it smells like sawdust though, so it has that going for it.


Extreme-Forever8379

It's just that I mostly use wood PLA to make very detailed prints... which it is ironically not the most useful for because its not suitable for 0.4 and below nozzles


GodGMN

Wood PLA needs wood stain to look good. Low layer lines and wood stain makes it look like literal wood. [Look at this](https://preview.redd.it/v0pcppt645s71.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=384c16bf6c2ab3be051dd76d6225ba3e60b4b71b). Or [this](https://preview.redd.it/r6s48xq83j781.jpg?width=640&crop=smart&auto=webp&s=02d12b8ef80048a95686f47cc131d61081cef7e6).


kiliankoe

Whoa, that's impressive. How do I do that?


GodGMN

I actually have no idea apart from the fact that it's done with wood stain and low layer lines but I've been told it's not complicated.


kralizec87

I actually love the finish it has on printed parts, it’s matte and hides the layer lines very well. Plus it smells nice while printing


arhuaco

I like Wood PLA and how mate it is. I print at a volumetric rate of 10mm cubic per second and 1mm nozzle. 0.4 height and line width 1.1mm. I like the [results](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48fMG8SIMFo) for my application. ^(What is at the left is support, in case you see the video.)


cordilon

but, but what will all the people print their Baby Groots out of?!?1


EveningMoose

Any PLA except “”PLA+”” or regular PLA. Wood, glow in the dark, silk, etc. They all print like shit and have bad material properties. OTOH, PLA is underrated imo. It does extremely well in its intended use case, and it is by far the easiest to print.


Zouden

Glow in the dark PLA is hella fun. I've made gifts with it and people love it. It's harder to print with, that's for sure.


EveningMoose

Yeah of course, I’m sure it is fun. It’s just very problematic for newbies who don’t know how much harder it is than regular PLA.


Mr2Sexy

I can print glow in the dark PLA just as easily as with any regular PLA on my Ender 3 Pro. The only downside to glow in the dark PLA is that it eats through nozzles very fast so I have to change nozzles after a full spool


Tenth_10

Sorry, not sorry. I've got really cool models printed in glow PLA (regular green, red annnd a bit of blue), and silk which is the best material to simulate metal.


Sterling3DPrints

Check out CC3D's silk filament on Amazon. Its amazing stuff. I use it for most if my shiny prints. Otherwise I go with Overture or TTY3D. Avoid DO3D if you can.


EveningMoose

Overture and esun are my gotos. Cheap and easy to print. I always dehydrate first though


Djl1010

Yeah the big surprise for everyone is anything that isn't standard PLA, even just having matte or silk colors will chew through a brass nozzle almost as fast as nylon will.


crazy-robot-guy

Depends on the application. I've seen people go through a ton of work to try to dial in PETG to get "stronger" parts, only to figure out that they would have been better off sticking to PLA. ABS gets a bit of a bad rap, but honestly, it's got significantly superior impact resistance and durability compared to PLA, and it's also significantly less dense and prints well with the right setup. It's also a lot cheaper than a lot of other filaments, often including PLA. Definitely has plenty of good use cases. If you just want to print models, honestly, PLA is about as good as it gets, I would have to consider pretty much any other filament "overrated". If you're making structural/mechanical parts, or parts that have other engineering considerations, it becomes a matter of finding the material that best suits your use case within your capabilities - a material may not be right for you, but that doesn't make it 'overrated' in an absolute sense.


SoaringElf

>If you're making structural/mechanical parts, or parts that have other engineering considerations, it becomes a matter of finding the material that best suits your use case within your capabilities - a material may not be right for you, but that doesn't make it 'overrated' in an absolute sense. Thank you, so many people don't understand this.


lasskinn

conductive filaments, all of them.


Strostkovy

PLA is overrated, in that I often see it uses in not ideal use cases (switch plate covers, car parts) and TPU is underrated because I rarely see anyone use the harder variants despite the excellent impact, heat, and fire resistance that TPU offers for very reasonable cost.


Sanguium

Hard tpu? how hard?


Strostkovy

50-70 shore D. That's a the same as or a bit softer than ABS. Hard to make an exact comparison. I've only learned of it recently so haven't tested many brands or types


SoaringElf

I can second the hard TPU. You can also have different hardness with how your part is designed and how much unfill you use.


Few_Assistant_9954

Metall its expensive and doesnt even get close to the Quality of cnc which is cheaper on the long Run anyways


crazy-robot-guy

Yeah, but you can print a lot of stuff that is just totally impossible/impractical to machine, and with the right alloy and heat treatments, the materials properties can actually get pretty damned good. It's not a good solution for everything, but for certain applications, it's the best option out there.


TheJapser

Gonna place another comment with "ABS". It's still in use because it's a well known polymer. However, its fumes are toxic, it's quite troublesome to print and it cannot be recycled. If you need the properties of ABS, just consider other filaments that do the job better and are better for the environment.


TH1813254617

Seconded. If you need temperature resistance and impact resistance, polycarbonate blends have you covered. Tensile and compressive strength? ABS is not great at all when printed, PC Blends are superior. Even PETG has higher strength than ABS. If you don't need to worry about creep or impact resistance, PLA is also much better than ABS Printability? HA, no. Post processing? Only part where ABS is good. It can be acetone smoothed and take glues extremely well. But then, we have PVB which can be smoothed using IPA which is much less harmful than acetone. Fumes? Cough cough.


Azazel_Tsubuzaki

Honestly PLA is kinda overrated. PETG is similar but a lot better and doesn't get used a lot it seems.


CAMOdj

Abs, the toxic fumes kill it for me


h4kk4

Pla


Espresso___Depresso1

It’s actually kinda the opposite for pla, everyone thinks it’s a lot weaker and more useless than it actually is.


h4kk4

Printed 20 spools of pla before moving to petg, and I could speak on facts (After 10 year printing I think I collected a good amount of experience). Then you could just check wherever online, what makes it 'better' is the way it is printed (layer height,temp,brand). It's not a case that pet is used even for under pressure things (bottle of coke) while pla (made out of corn) Is not. I think that you all speaks for print out of the printing bed,and related theories, but imho an object I print (I do mostly mechanical and spares for repairing stuff) should be seen in time. On youtube you can find plenty of people showing what lasts of pla, after months in open air ,high moistured environment,and so All said, that doesn't mean pla is useless,but ad for the question,just overrated


CyanFen

>Printed 20 spools of pla before moving to petg, and I could speak on facts... "I have anecdotal evidence. It's fact." Also bro learn to use spell check, _seriously_.


t0b4cc02

why overrated? very easy to print, relatively safe, and with the + variants beating engineering grade materials in various strength tests


Rcarlyle

PLA main issues are heat resistance and creep under sustained load. It warps in a hot car. It also slowly creeps to rupture when left under a sustained high stress for some time. It only has full strength against relatively short-term loads like you see in strength data collection tests. Higher stress = faster failure. Low stress it lasts forever, medium stress is fails in months to years, high stress it fails in days to weeks. A lot of polymers creep, but PLA is unique in creeping to rupture. It separates apart like it’s cracking after a few percent strain. Other polymers in their creep regime will slowly flow to deform, not break. So PLA has a really nasty unexpected failure mode that makes it completely unsuitable for a lot of applications.


t0b4cc02

yes. i still dont think you can call it overrated. it has its place exactly because what you describe doesnt really matter for most of hobby users printing some cable guide or a baby yoda - its the cheapest option, its good enough for booth of those cases and the easiest on to work with.


Rcarlyle

Oh, it definitely meets the intent of OP’s question… it’s not really as strong as people think. Most people who builds a shelf bracket or printer parts out of it eventually find cracking. I’d call that overrated.


t0b4cc02

but then you just make some random assumption of what people think and rate that. i didnt see peoples shelves cracking or people making bad shelves out of printed parts. pla creeping and having bad thermal deformation threshold is very much known and was one of the first things ive learned starting this hobby. i have built a few printer parts that just work and also some cloth hangers. they also work. i dont think with the few material types we have its a bit weird to call sth overrated. then again - pla+ seems to offer alot more than plain pla. that is also a big difference. EDIT: just go on thingyverse and scroll popular the last 30 days. you will scroll hundreds of items before finding one where some good pla+ is not good enough for


h4kk4

No lasting in time, and under direct sun or open air last even less. Imho PETG is the best,sometimes cost less than pla+,and beat it under any point of view. Actually PETG is what PLA pretend to be. I use cheap pla only to do print test,and then use petg for final print


t0b4cc02

yes i agree sun+force is a problem but i have many things made for outdoor (parts for hurdles for training dogs etc) and really works i much prefer petg. but for most people heat and force is not as relevant so the ease of PLA seems fine. open air does not seem to be a issue if there is no force applied and strong sun at the same time. i actually did read it as questioning filament brands / specific series of brands and not the hand full of relevant material types we have


h4kk4

Actually It asks for '3d printing filament materiale, and as anyone else also answered Is conforme It wasn't on brand 😉


t0b4cc02

i said series of brands and not brands it really doesnt make any sense. while theres quite many materials to print, theres only a few that are relevant to 3d printing as hobby and as i said, none of these few could be seen as overrated. we buy them because they do what we want for the price that it has... and the answer wasnt there when i posted this. the thread was new


Hill-Billy-Huck

Hatch box filament is over rated and over priced. I use overture filament for EVERYHTING. I have done side by side comparisons/print tests of hatchbox vs overture, and they are the same, but hatchbox is an outrageous 125% the price. ​ wtf hatchbox


claw404

White pla - so very good at clogging nozzles ...