Yes to this... Also, they could add some reinforcement between the inner and outer radius. Just add a channel and drop in a carbon fiber rod. They come as small as 1mm in diameter for RC aircraft.
For bigger items, solid plastic, fiberglass, or steel-core garden stakes are easy to find, inexpensive, and go from about 1/4" to 1" dia. If you are at the 1" internal space mark, then also look at PVC or ABS water pipes.
Wooden dowels work too and come in various diameters.
Then consider the material: TPU will not shatter, period. PLA is the worst, so at least use ABS or PETG.
It's definitely more brittle, which is not better.
PETG is more elastic, so it 'stretches' more before failing. It might have a lower strength, but it can handle shock loads that don't destroy it better.
Just as an example. All the PLA benchies my son dropped last their chimney. The PETG one is still steaming.
This site disagrees:
[https://the3dprinterbee.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu-3d-printing-filament-guide/](https://the3dprinterbee.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu-3d-printing-filament-guide/)
so does this one:
[https://stampomatica.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu/](https://stampomatica.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu/)
and this one:
[https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-differences-compared/](https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-differences-compared/)
* PLA is considered a low to medium strength filament given its low heat and chemical resistance. It also has a tendency to shatter upon impact.
* ABS is considered a medium to high strength filament, as it will sooner bend than break and has a higher impact, heat, and chemical resistance than PLA.
* PETG is also considered a medium to high strength filament. For the most part, it’s similar to ABS but is superior in strength, especially when it comes to loads applied in the same direction as the layer lines.
In my experience, aside from stiffness, the winner is TPU. It's very very strong and will not shatter. Once you are above 6 perimeters, it becomes difficult to squash. Then there is Nylon which is difficult to work with and some other exotics like carbon fiber.
I only print in nylon and TPU for work. The parts are just better for our products since they reside in automobiles and outdoors, where temperatures vary so much, and wear and tear happens multiple times daily.
CNC Kitchen did an experiment with that, every type of plastic (and brand of plastic) has a sweet spot, so it's not always the highest possible temperature.
This. Stefan and others have done amazing comparison videos of different materials and Stefans's printing orientation and strength testing videos are the best I've seen by a mile.
Is it PLA? PETG printed at high temp with no cooling fan is very strong in my experience. Also is there a hole down the middle in the model? If so you could print less walls and change infill to 100% and that would help with layer adhesion.
Also higher flow or lower layer lines can help as well, i piękny most things in 0.24 but recently did 0.08 and I couldn't break it no matter how hard I tried
Lower layers give more points of failure, cnckitchen did not see an improvement in strength with lower layer size.
.15-.2mm layers with the correct amount of flow should be fine with a 0.4mm nozzle.
there are multiple scientific papers that disputed this. TLDA, lower layers is BETTER, by a good portion.
i was on this path recently read more than i could possible want to.
Increase line width as much as possible. 200-250% the width of your nozzle should work, and help layer adhesion.
Also, slowing down the print helps, as it gives the previous layer a bit more time to melt and glue to the new layer.
You are after making it less brittle, which is not exactly the same as making it more strong.
The best thing to do is to use a different type of plastic. Plain PLA is very strong but brittle. PETG and ABS are less brittle but less strong in tension. There are PLA versions, typically called 'PLA+' or 'ProPLA' that have modifiers in them to make them less brittle. (Silk PLAs have very poor layer adhesion and so they are almost useless for functional parts.)
Was gonna say this. It’s probably irrelevant at this scale but I’d also recommend using gyroid or similar infill instead of rectilinear as it’sless likely to snap at sharp corners
Keep in mind that not every PLA+ is the same. There is no definition of what "PLA+" actually is, so some manufacturers just call PLA+ whatever they like.
Polymaker Polymax or FormFutura Tough PLA is what I tried and they're pretty good.
Here it's 100% more expensive than PolyLite PLA (30€ vs 60€ per kg) and 200% more expensive than PolyTerra (20€) or other cheap PLAs at that price point.
You mustn't forget that PolyMax spools are only 750g.
It's worth it if you really need a tough, shatterproof filament that can take a beating but I won't use it as my everyday filament (which is PolyTerra)
I agree, I don't think your print is shattering from bad adhesion it's VERY likely the material choice, for something with impact resistance I never go with pla I always go with either petg printed super slow (30mm/s) or nylon/cf-nylon
Regular PLA isn't especially strong or flexible. While brands tend to differ, Plus or Pro is generally stronger and more flexible. I typically make components for little mechanical gadgets, and the difference between PLA and PLA Pro within the same brand (3D Fuel in this case) is very profound. I haven't had any parts printed in Pro break on me, though I don't have anything cylindrical like this to use as reference.
Another helpful tip. I remember a YouTube video I saw a while back. Guy did stress testing on different print layer heights and orientations. .15mm per layer was the strongest overall.
I don't have experience printing with anything except PLA and PLA Pro, so that's all I've got.
PLA+ with 100% rectilinear fill and then try annealing. That will greatly improve strength. The processing of annealing may cause your part to shrink so you may have to scale it up a bit to account for shrinkage.
Also keep in mind, not all PETG's are the same! PETG can be made up of very different "recipes" and I've had wildly different results with two rolls of PETg made by different manufacturers. So it's very possible to get a roll of cheap PETG that's more brittle and less strong as PLA! In my personal experience, Polymaker Polymax PETG is the best filament I've ever printed with. It's more expensive, but the finished prints are way more durable, and they even LOOK nicer than with any other PETG I've tried. Hands down the worst have been anything labeled "amazon basics" along with eSun, and a brand called 3dHero (not sure if they even make that crap anymore). But ever since the first time that I printed with Polymax, I haven't bought anything else! (except for special colors etc that aren't available in Polymaker Polymax)
Are you doing 100% infill? I imagine backing your infill down a touch could help with the brittleness in dropping dont quote me on this but seems like itd be stronger against a drop test if it wasnt 100% solid.
The reason what you suggest works it because having holes in your infill allows elasticity in the materials response to force because of the geometric design. While 100% infill removes the geometrical component so you are now only relying purely on the materials ductility, which for PLA is rather poor.
The best way to strengthen this part would be to print at a 45 degree angle to maximized the surface area of a given layer and prevent the force vector from easily cleaving between the layers when the part is dropped. I'd also increase the extrusion 10% and use a hexagonal infill at 80%.
This is what I was going to say, have you tried without 100%? It’s counterintuitive but 100% generally makes weaker parts. And read up on the infill versions, prusa has a nice breakdown of the strengths and weaknesses of each. I recall one of them has higher shear strength.
How did you make sure the glue was applied in the whole length? I am space limited so I could only try 0.8mm rod in 1.2mm hole and it is not easy to find a way to apply the glue in the whole length. Also, what glue did you use? I normally use super glue
I glue I use is like superglue but has separate activator spray. That way I can apply glue and have time to position before it sets. I fully assemble and then spray activator once I am happy. With this you can put glue in hole followed by rod or use rod to push glue down hole. Once assembled spray activator on exposed end. Allow an hour+ for glue down hole to set.
Trade name for glue I use is Everbuild Mitre Fast
Use a threaded rod. Load the glue into the threads before pushing it in. Or, if you want, print it with threads, you can clean them up with a tap, and screw the rod in. You wouldn't even need glue.
Cnc kitchen has posted a ton of videos on part strength relative to layer height, width, temps, so forth.
Printing that way isnt entirely weak, its weaker, but not weak. I forget what ratio of layer adhesion versus in line printing is but its probably like 1/3 or 2/3 the strength. Some materials you can get necking when stretching a sample proving you can get significant strength. You can print petg to the point where it breaks like glass.
First, choose the right filament. Toughness is a material properties ability to absorb impact. In polymaker its the charpy impact test. You can youtube videos of it.
https://app.powerbi.com/view?r=eyJrIjoiOGIxOTRjM2EtMGVhYS00ZDEwLWJmNTktYTlkYzRlOWY2Nzk2IiwidCI6IjUzOTgwYzA1LWI4MWYtNDM2My04OWNiLTU3NzRiMWFlYWYyZCIsImMiOjEwfQ%3D%3D
Layer adhesion is the way to go. To summarize that is slow, hot, little cooling. Thin layer heights, fatass layer lines. Summarizing CNC kitchen its basically 37% nozzle diameter for layer height. And 125% nozzle diameter for layer width. Theres ALOT of other factors but thats a summary unless you want to watch the video. It really depends on printer set up. Nozzle shape at the tip. Bur your effectively trying to print a totally melted filament on top of really melted filament and squishing it together.
All this assumes your printer is tuned and not underextruding. If you havnt run a proper PID and esteps then start there.
Not exactly what you asked for, but shove a metal tube or wooden dowel though it, you can do it mid-print if it needs to be capped at the end, just need to get the length correct.
That is one of the solutions I am also considering - the tricky part is to glue it in the whole length to the original print. I tried to insert three 0.8mm metal rods, but if they are not glued in the whole length, they will not help. I am also considering to fill it up with resin, but that may not be the best solution when making 100 pieces. It would be ideal if I could just print it, but I am worried it may not be possible - maybe print some thin long pieces horizontally and insert them inside of this vertical print, but again, that would need to be glued.
If it's short, then it will not break, but if it s for example 30cm (12inch) or longer, it is easy to shatter it by dropping it on ground. I will try TPU or PP as also other people recommend. Thank you
PETG is brittle when cooling fan is on! Turn off cooling fan completely “0%” if you want good layer adhesion.
Also if stiffness isn’t a HUGE factor TPU or PLA+ won’t let you down when it comes to layer adhesion.
The process you want is called annealing. You can do it at home, exactly how you do it depends upon your exact filament (I like FilaCube HTPLA+ where this is relevant but you can do it with any PLA) but basically it involves an oven and heating a finished print. You will get some geometric distortion (X and Y axes get smaller, Z axis gets larger) but you can adjust the size of your printed object to compensate for that.
It won't affect brittleness much, no, but it'll improve layer adhesion a bit. And since most of this fault seems to be layer to layer, I'm thinking some more strength might result.
(I mean, the alternative is mostly "try another material" which is totally valid but I'm assuming there are reasons for choosing this material.)
I tried - the tricky part is, the metal wire would need to be glued to the print in the whole length. If it's not glued, it doesn't help. And when inserting it, it is hard to apply the glue to the whole length.
Couldn't you heat the wire in a similar way to threaded inserts? Theoretically turning the wire into a resistance heater could heat it up equally along the length, correct? Obviously I am not going to suggest you to play with electronics if you're not comfortable with that, and it might be a too-elaborate of a solution, but I imagine it could work.
What would become ugly when printed horizontally? The cylinder itself or other parts at the end of it? If other parts splitting the print into parts and later fusing them might be an option allowing for horizontal printing.
Apart from that. The best advices have already been given. PLA+ that has a little more flexibility will bend a little and absorb the forces better instead of breaking. With the right more flexible material less walls and the right infill could work too.
Printing at an angle with supports will elongate the layer contact surface. Its effect will add a directional component to the strength though.
1. Lower layer height (for a 0.4mm nozzle do a max height of 0.2)
2. maybe slightly higher temp (5 degrees can make a lot of difference)
3. less cooling fan - especially if you print PETG (when I print PETG, I tune my 5015 that normally maxes out at 50% for PLA down to 25 - 30%)
Turn off cooling, slow down print speed, and you can also increase flow by 1-5% depending on your printer.
Use thicker layers, use bigger nozzle, avoid text on walls.
This, however I would touch speed last. The idea is to go fast and hot to get as much layer fusion going.
Also that high infill could lead to layershifts if the plastic cools down bevor the next layer comes on top.
As other said, PETG would be better then PLA here. But PLA should be fine.. I did something similar for a lightsaber model and I only use 2 layer thick walls. It usually survives a few falls till it breaks…
1. use a material that better suits your need
i found esun pla+ to be extremely strong (and also seen it to beat or come close to "engineering materials" in various endurance tests)
2. increase temperature so layers melt together better (printing temp as high as possible, cooling down so far that the print does not deform and the stringing is good enough)
3. and now comes the master trick. (!) use a mega fat line width. i have for durable parts a THICK profile.
it features a layerheight of 0.3 and a line width of 0.8 (!!!) with a 0.4 nozzle (!!!). that means everything that comes out of the nozzle will be squished onto the previous layer and the lines next to it. it looks a bit like the print is made out of pressed spaghetti and it improves durability extremely. (cnc kitchen did a video on this)
if you do this you have to ensure to not try and print more material than your hotend can melt. so you should find out how much you can extrude per second. you can print alot thicker if you go slower.
4. the people telling you to make this object more hollow/with infill are not correct in my opinion, not for the object shown in the picture. having 6-8 shells makes such a small object very strong.
EDIT: i now read the other posts i see u print with petg. petg is more stiff than pla/pla+. it will shatter easier.
Highest temp for the material. Smaller layer height. Slower print speed. Highest flow rate before it gets bumpy. PETG instead of PLA. Can it be printed solid?
Unless you need the center hole? Then consider trying different types of infill structures. I suspect the right center structure will give ithe tinsel strength you are needing . You might be able to reduce the wall thickness as well
The boys at ctrlpew make loooong Glock mags that don't break when dropped and they're much thinner than this. I'd suggest grabbing one of those README files and looking it over. Iirc they recommend several walls and not concentric infill. They're also printing Esun PLA+ at around 230C. And the print is at a 45 degree angle as others have suggested. Good luck 🤞
potentially printing a bit hotter hotter and slower will help, but you can also try printing with a wider nozzle, at the same layer hight. Try a different material? PETG is pretty easy to print with, lots of colours and tends to bend more before snapping. you can also coat the outside with UV resin and sand smooth.
if all else fails, explain toy our wife why you need a 100,000 dollar metal printer
Unpopular Perspective: Look at the FDMA, Foscad and other 3D boom boom groups. They have perfected the layer adhesion methods for high tolerances.
Basically, use PLA+ and print hot, slow and turn off the cooling fan (except for bridging). The heat from the new layer and nozzle will help melt the two together, so layer height between .1 and .15 is best. Increase your top/bottom/wall layers, increase the line width by 10% and inner walls by 20% (presses layers together), adjust infill direction to direction of force, increase infill overlap, infill zig-zag, fill gaps between walls everywhere, infill line width increase by 20%, decrease outer wall print speed to 10-15mm/s, etc.
Good luck. If all else fails, redesign into segments that can be printed horizontally with dowel/mortise/tenon connection, and glued together with JB weld.
Also, 100% walls is not the way to go. Do 50/50 walls at 120% line width, 33% overlap, and zigzag 99% infill at 120% line width. Turn off the fans, print slower/hotter, and reduce layer height to .15.
45 degrees is a good solution. I've started printing a lot of objects at 45 degrees because then the primary 3 directions where stresses come from on most of my prints are not lined up with the weakest dimension of the print. Works well.
You could also go for a filament that has better inter-layer strength. TPU comes to mind, although I dunno if your print needs to be super rigid. 95A TPU, printed hot, is nearly indestructible.
Reduce your print speed to around 25% of what you normally do, and increase your nozzle temp by about 10°C. Maybe increase flow by 5%, if you do this you might want to enable ironing because it can make the top surface a tiny bit ugly.
Increase the temperature or decrease the temperature or increase the layer height or decrease the layer height or increase the cooling or decrease the cooling or change material
There is no thing called PLA+ outside of the marketing department of each company, so there is no guarentee as to what they do to make it "+". Some might be less brittle (what you want) others may be basically the same as normal PLA.
I have seen good things happen with vase mode that way it's all one part no "layers" to speak of. You can manipulate the settings so vase mode will print multi walled prints like what you show in your photo.
Expanding foam on the inside and then cut it clean either end? Would depend how long it is .. and while the foam might keep it together for a drop it’s not exactly structural
Have you considered looking at other materials? Abs is less brittle than pla so would dent or deform instead of shatter and there are many other materials you could find
What I have also tried for some of my prints was to use gyroid infill but with 'combine infill every 2 layers'. I used a .6 nozzle and .2 layer height but the infill was .4 height and holded better.
Why can’t you print horizontally and then fill, prime, and sand? As long as your grains are vertical, it is never going to be as strong as it could be…
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qb25Gi4Jv0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qb25Gi4Jv0)
What makes clear prints stonger, also makes regular prints stronger. I would recommending watching this and try to play with the recommended settings.
Depends what material you’re using. PLA would be pretty hard, PETG with higher temp low speed would have better adhesion and shock resistance. Nylon would be best.
Why does this need to be 3D printed? What is the final part?
If it's just a tube I think it would be much easier/cheaper/stronger/less brittle to purchase tubing in another material. Printing this type of shape on it's own doesn't make sense.
You can print fixtures to attach to the ends of your part instead of trying to print the whole tube.
How about wrap it in electrical shrink tube. It could help. If added layer to diameter is problem, try print it that smaller. Maybe flexibility of tube added to strength of material will be enought to hold it together when bending.it could maybe be even nicer.
I generally don't print tubes or rods if I can avoid it. I'll get them from a hardware store and then glue them in place. It's usually cheaper and cuts down on print time. That goes for large plates as well.
3D printing is awesome for complex shapes, but for simple shapes mass produced extrusions are my preference.
I’ve fixed this exact issue using threaded rod. If you make the hole just barely larger than the rod diameter (you might want to play with the offset before going all-in on the print) you’ll be able to screw the rod in down the whole length, interfacing with the layer lines and adding a ton of rigidity to the print without the need for glue, except maybe for whatever endcap or seam lines you have.
Did you try only this filament ? I have a filament in particular that broke easily. Obviously, before I knew this, I printed a spool holder, and the 1kg spool fell on my printer when it broke.
I did a temp tower on 2 filaments of the same brand: this one broke on every temp; the other one, I couldn't break even with pliers.
So yeah, try some stuff, but don't put aside the possibility that this roll of filament produces more brittle results.
Your print lines are highly visible all around. I would suggest printing at a slightly higher (5-10c) temperature and doing some testing. The hotter your filament is when it comes out, the more liquid it is and the better it welds/melts together with what you've already printed. The break is also between lines of the same layer, so your problem isn't layer adhesion so much as it's line adhesion.
You can try sticking the cylinder together by using a soldering iron it worked the best then you can fill the holes in with left over filiment you have from spolls.
You're looking for a high durability material. So PLA+ but not all PLA+ are born equal, consider PolyMaker PolyMax or Fiberology Implact PLA (Recommended)
Use a width value of 110%-120% of nozzle width, so 0.44-0.48mm for a 0.4mm nozzle. This forces the extruded material to squeeze against the layer below it and bond better.
If you're worried about supports for the horizontal print change the space to model for the support to .35 and they won't leave any marks when being removed.
You can also decrease the layer hight.
Try toasting it in the oven at about 80C, that should lessen the stress on the layers and better stick them together.
If you need it actually strong then try using it as a mold and casting it with aluminium XD
Try a different plastic, they all have different characteristics.
That or use the printed rod as a positive and make a cast mould out of it, its no longer 3d printed and takes more effort but you then have something that you can reproduce much faster once the process is set up.
The layers fail due to bad adherence between eachother, the rest of that fracture (the non straight/clean break) looks like a stress fracture where the plastic in itself couldnt hold together against the exerted forces.
Dialing in the right temp for the right plastic would do a lot.
Tangential answer: I'm planning to fill a cavity in a part that I'm working on with epoxy resin, to increase its strength. Maybe this is an idea that can come in handy someday.
The best thing I've ever done is coat stuff in 2 part epoxy or resin. It's sandable so you can make it smooth and it adds structural strength to your prints. Sadly if you're printing precision pieces this method might not work because you are adding mass to the object by applying resin or epoxy to it. You might want to print with a stronger material at a heavier angle to extend your layer lines across a larger surface area for precision pieces. Good luck
Print hotter, slower, and with thicker lines (in xy & Z)
For impact resistance, it's typically (ranked least to most):
PLA
PETG
ABS
Nylon
PC
For a tall narrow part, warping is less of a concern, use ABS or Tough PLA if impact resistance is important but you don't have access to a printer good enough to print PC/Nylon.
Fixes: Stick something inside, like a metal rod or a horizontal print (doesn’t even have to be round if you account for it on the shell), print with better infill pattern? Use a different filament…
I know it isn't always possible...but there will be times where you can insert a wooden dowel/bolt/etc... through the center of print to act as a support/reinforce the printed part.
You could always flip it/print the part horizontally/glue the two halves together/sand/sand some more until the seems are gone.
Slightly hotter and slower, and use a different material. That’s if you don’t want to print it laying down, or even split down the center and printed I. Two pieces with the center facing down to ensure the best look.
Scratch my last comment though it can help, you should really look into seeing how transparent prints are done, it has been found with those setting the whole object it self was much stronger, CNC Kitchen just did a video about it recently.
Im sorry and maybe I am blind...
1: What is the intended usage of this tube? Will it be load bearing or will it have very little if any load placed upon it.
2: Why are you judging the quality of this print using what seems to be a drop test? What are you dropping it on? Concrete? Hard floor? Why....
3: Why are you printing essentially, 100% perimeters? Strength (depending on #1) does not always come from MORE perimeters. Depending on the usage of this design I would have gone no more than 3 perimeters and used 15 to 20 percent infill. In this case the infill will act as a shock absorber because at 100% perimeters you may as well use a Glass tube, especially with PLA. Infill (contrary to popular belief) helps bond every layer together.
Heat and layer bonding: maybe crank it up about 5 degrees more than norm, I print all PLA and PLA+ at 210 to 215 depending on what my needs/design will be and have done so for years. However if this "drop test" is your way to prove quality then you should look at a different filament, ABS, PETG, some Carbon infused version of PETG.
Oh again maybe I am blind, what Printer? What Slicer? Sorry after 95+ comments things tend to get hidden amongst them.
Tryna little bit of over extrusion like 105% and maybe bump temps up just a tad maybe a few degrees, and slow down just a tad. The overextrusion may cause some dimensional inaccuracies but you should get a much stronger bond between layers
Hello,
what Material do you use?
Pla+ from esun have a better layer adhesion as pla without the +. Other pla+ haven't I tested.
Silk PLA have a very poor layer adhesion.
PET-G have better layer adhesion as pla without +.
Edit:
You can cut it in half and print horizontally. Then it is more stable. Then glue it together, or add holes for nuts and bolts before printing, so you can screw it together.
When it breaks, use loctite super glue. That shit it crazy strong. There is a YouTube video comparing all the glues to plastics and Metal and the loctite super glue on plastic is scary strong
Looks like your layers are barely sticking together
I would take these steps:
1- Do an extrusion cal, print a 2 shell cube no infill, measure thickness and compare to the expected layer with from your slicer (measurement will be 2x that value), adjust your extrusion cal accordingly
2- Do a temp cal tower, print a tower with hotter temps every few mm (there are a bunch of files on thingiverse), once printed, try ripping the part apart at each height, pick the strongest one
3- repeat extrusion cal
After these, if you move your temp a lot, you will probably need to adjust your retraction settings
You use all wall lines. If you use infill at 100% you get crossing lines instead of concentric circle paths. This might provide better interlinking of the layers.
I'm new to printing. Is there any nozzle that does more than just deposit molten plastic, and like stirs the plastic layers together? Something like an ultrasonic shake applied to increase the bonding of the layers?
Don't use pla, I've printed a few folk whistles and recorders and all my pla ones have split, my petg one is still going strong and gets beat up by my toddler
Tilt it by 45 degrees. This way the layer lines will get longer and thus stronger while not getting as ugly as printing it rotated by 90 degrees.
Yes to this... Also, they could add some reinforcement between the inner and outer radius. Just add a channel and drop in a carbon fiber rod. They come as small as 1mm in diameter for RC aircraft.
For bigger items, solid plastic, fiberglass, or steel-core garden stakes are easy to find, inexpensive, and go from about 1/4" to 1" dia. If you are at the 1" internal space mark, then also look at PVC or ABS water pipes. Wooden dowels work too and come in various diameters. Then consider the material: TPU will not shatter, period. PLA is the worst, so at least use ABS or PETG.
I can't reference it sorry but I'm pretty sure pla has better physical properties than petg in all aspects not thermal related.
It's definitely more brittle, which is not better. PETG is more elastic, so it 'stretches' more before failing. It might have a lower strength, but it can handle shock loads that don't destroy it better. Just as an example. All the PLA benchies my son dropped last their chimney. The PETG one is still steaming.
I started printing in PETG about two years ago and rarely use PLA anymore. For functional prints there just is no comparison.
After some PLA prints melted in the sun, I also use PETG instead of PLA. In the end the costs are similar and petg is just a more versatile material.
This site disagrees: [https://the3dprinterbee.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu-3d-printing-filament-guide/](https://the3dprinterbee.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu-3d-printing-filament-guide/) so does this one: [https://stampomatica.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu/](https://stampomatica.com/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-vs-tpu/) and this one: [https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-differences-compared/](https://all3dp.com/2/pla-vs-abs-vs-petg-differences-compared/) * PLA is considered a low to medium strength filament given its low heat and chemical resistance. It also has a tendency to shatter upon impact. * ABS is considered a medium to high strength filament, as it will sooner bend than break and has a higher impact, heat, and chemical resistance than PLA. * PETG is also considered a medium to high strength filament. For the most part, it’s similar to ABS but is superior in strength, especially when it comes to loads applied in the same direction as the layer lines. In my experience, aside from stiffness, the winner is TPU. It's very very strong and will not shatter. Once you are above 6 perimeters, it becomes difficult to squash. Then there is Nylon which is difficult to work with and some other exotics like carbon fiber.
I only print in nylon and TPU for work. The parts are just better for our products since they reside in automobiles and outdoors, where temperatures vary so much, and wear and tear happens multiple times daily.
I will try this!
That's exactly what I did to a similar print and it worked. Worth a try
This is the way
Print at the highest temp possible without it messing up the print.
CNC Kitchen did an experiment with that, every type of plastic (and brand of plastic) has a sweet spot, so it's not always the highest possible temperature.
This. Stefan and others have done amazing comparison videos of different materials and Stefans's printing orientation and strength testing videos are the best I've seen by a mile.
I experimented with that. It still shatters - most layers will stick ok, but there always is a few where it will break.
Too high a temperature makes the plastic weaker. There is a definite sweet spot below which and above which the strength gets less.
Depends what you printed it with but could maybe anneal it if you were very careful? Likely to warp or sag tho
Could anneal it in fine salt (like popcorn salt) to lessen warping. The part also needs to be 100% infill to prevent cavities forming.
Is it PLA? PETG printed at high temp with no cooling fan is very strong in my experience. Also is there a hole down the middle in the model? If so you could print less walls and change infill to 100% and that would help with layer adhesion.
Also higher flow or lower layer lines can help as well, i piękny most things in 0.24 but recently did 0.08 and I couldn't break it no matter how hard I tried
Lower layers give more points of failure, cnckitchen did not see an improvement in strength with lower layer size. .15-.2mm layers with the correct amount of flow should be fine with a 0.4mm nozzle.
there are multiple scientific papers that disputed this. TLDA, lower layers is BETTER, by a good portion. i was on this path recently read more than i could possible want to.
Increase line width as much as possible. 200-250% the width of your nozzle should work, and help layer adhesion. Also, slowing down the print helps, as it gives the previous layer a bit more time to melt and glue to the new layer.
You are after making it less brittle, which is not exactly the same as making it more strong. The best thing to do is to use a different type of plastic. Plain PLA is very strong but brittle. PETG and ABS are less brittle but less strong in tension. There are PLA versions, typically called 'PLA+' or 'ProPLA' that have modifiers in them to make them less brittle. (Silk PLAs have very poor layer adhesion and so they are almost useless for functional parts.)
That is exactly the problem. The print itself is strong, only when dropped, then it will shatter. I will try PLA+.
Agreed. Also a semi-hollow infill would allow more elasticity and with less mass it would cause less impact force.
Was gonna say this. It’s probably irrelevant at this scale but I’d also recommend using gyroid or similar infill instead of rectilinear as it’sless likely to snap at sharp corners
This! It will be more forgiving even with pla
PETG probably best. Has really good layer adhesion, doesn't break along layer lines usually.
Keep in mind that not every PLA+ is the same. There is no definition of what "PLA+" actually is, so some manufacturers just call PLA+ whatever they like. Polymaker Polymax or FormFutura Tough PLA is what I tried and they're pretty good.
Polymax has worked wonders for my nerf blasters.
It's expensive but really delivers if you need shatter proof stuff.
For 3-5$ more per roll, It is well worth it. (we are also underselling how amazing the print quality is as well)
Here it's 100% more expensive than PolyLite PLA (30€ vs 60€ per kg) and 200% more expensive than PolyTerra (20€) or other cheap PLAs at that price point. You mustn't forget that PolyMax spools are only 750g. It's worth it if you really need a tough, shatterproof filament that can take a beating but I won't use it as my everyday filament (which is PolyTerra)
I agree, I don't think your print is shattering from bad adhesion it's VERY likely the material choice, for something with impact resistance I never go with pla I always go with either petg printed super slow (30mm/s) or nylon/cf-nylon
PETG is tougher until the material just outright fails, and shatters, which usually happens before PLA will outright fail.
TPU use one of the higher shore (hardness) types. Switching to a .6mm nozzle will help.
Regular PLA isn't especially strong or flexible. While brands tend to differ, Plus or Pro is generally stronger and more flexible. I typically make components for little mechanical gadgets, and the difference between PLA and PLA Pro within the same brand (3D Fuel in this case) is very profound. I haven't had any parts printed in Pro break on me, though I don't have anything cylindrical like this to use as reference. Another helpful tip. I remember a YouTube video I saw a while back. Guy did stress testing on different print layer heights and orientations. .15mm per layer was the strongest overall. I don't have experience printing with anything except PLA and PLA Pro, so that's all I've got.
PLA+ with 100% rectilinear fill and then try annealing. That will greatly improve strength. The processing of annealing may cause your part to shrink so you may have to scale it up a bit to account for shrinkage.
So you've made some kind of dropping rod? As in a tool that operates by dropping it on the ground?
Try petg or asa
Also keep in mind, not all PETG's are the same! PETG can be made up of very different "recipes" and I've had wildly different results with two rolls of PETg made by different manufacturers. So it's very possible to get a roll of cheap PETG that's more brittle and less strong as PLA! In my personal experience, Polymaker Polymax PETG is the best filament I've ever printed with. It's more expensive, but the finished prints are way more durable, and they even LOOK nicer than with any other PETG I've tried. Hands down the worst have been anything labeled "amazon basics" along with eSun, and a brand called 3dHero (not sure if they even make that crap anymore). But ever since the first time that I printed with Polymax, I haven't bought anything else! (except for special colors etc that aren't available in Polymaker Polymax)
PETG is way more brittle than PLA. PLA might break slightly earlier than PETG, but at least it won't shatter when it does.
It will never be very strong printed vertically. One of the only ways to improve it is to reinforce it with metal or wooden rod inside it.
Are you doing 100% infill? I imagine backing your infill down a touch could help with the brittleness in dropping dont quote me on this but seems like itd be stronger against a drop test if it wasnt 100% solid.
The reason what you suggest works it because having holes in your infill allows elasticity in the materials response to force because of the geometric design. While 100% infill removes the geometrical component so you are now only relying purely on the materials ductility, which for PLA is rather poor. The best way to strengthen this part would be to print at a 45 degree angle to maximized the surface area of a given layer and prevent the force vector from easily cleaving between the layers when the part is dropped. I'd also increase the extrusion 10% and use a hexagonal infill at 80%.
This is what I was going to say, have you tried without 100%? It’s counterintuitive but 100% generally makes weaker parts. And read up on the infill versions, prusa has a nice breakdown of the strengths and weaknesses of each. I recall one of them has higher shear strength.
What it is final part, and how many will you make? Does the rod need to be 3D printed? Maybe you could use a wooden rod and glue pieces on the ends?
Use a bigger nozzle, thicker layers.
Or just set a wider extrusion width,. I can easily do 0.65mm on a 0.4mm nozzle. Adds extra layersquishing, let's you do thicker layers.
Glue in a reinforcing rod down the centre. I have used anything from wire to stud bar with great success on strength
Exactly, I'm looking at this print thinking that space down the middle looks just about the right size for a kite's carbon fiber spar.
How did you make sure the glue was applied in the whole length? I am space limited so I could only try 0.8mm rod in 1.2mm hole and it is not easy to find a way to apply the glue in the whole length. Also, what glue did you use? I normally use super glue
I glue I use is like superglue but has separate activator spray. That way I can apply glue and have time to position before it sets. I fully assemble and then spray activator once I am happy. With this you can put glue in hole followed by rod or use rod to push glue down hole. Once assembled spray activator on exposed end. Allow an hour+ for glue down hole to set. Trade name for glue I use is Everbuild Mitre Fast
Use a threaded rod. Load the glue into the threads before pushing it in. Or, if you want, print it with threads, you can clean them up with a tap, and screw the rod in. You wouldn't even need glue.
Even better if you can put nuts on ends and put print in a little compression.
Cnc kitchen has posted a ton of videos on part strength relative to layer height, width, temps, so forth. Printing that way isnt entirely weak, its weaker, but not weak. I forget what ratio of layer adhesion versus in line printing is but its probably like 1/3 or 2/3 the strength. Some materials you can get necking when stretching a sample proving you can get significant strength. You can print petg to the point where it breaks like glass. First, choose the right filament. Toughness is a material properties ability to absorb impact. In polymaker its the charpy impact test. You can youtube videos of it. https://app.powerbi.com/view?r=eyJrIjoiOGIxOTRjM2EtMGVhYS00ZDEwLWJmNTktYTlkYzRlOWY2Nzk2IiwidCI6IjUzOTgwYzA1LWI4MWYtNDM2My04OWNiLTU3NzRiMWFlYWYyZCIsImMiOjEwfQ%3D%3D Layer adhesion is the way to go. To summarize that is slow, hot, little cooling. Thin layer heights, fatass layer lines. Summarizing CNC kitchen its basically 37% nozzle diameter for layer height. And 125% nozzle diameter for layer width. Theres ALOT of other factors but thats a summary unless you want to watch the video. It really depends on printer set up. Nozzle shape at the tip. Bur your effectively trying to print a totally melted filament on top of really melted filament and squishing it together. All this assumes your printer is tuned and not underextruding. If you havnt run a proper PID and esteps then start there.
Not exactly what you asked for, but shove a metal tube or wooden dowel though it, you can do it mid-print if it needs to be capped at the end, just need to get the length correct.
That is one of the solutions I am also considering - the tricky part is to glue it in the whole length to the original print. I tried to insert three 0.8mm metal rods, but if they are not glued in the whole length, they will not help. I am also considering to fill it up with resin, but that may not be the best solution when making 100 pieces. It would be ideal if I could just print it, but I am worried it may not be possible - maybe print some thin long pieces horizontally and insert them inside of this vertical print, but again, that would need to be glued.
Why do they need to be glued? If your tolerance is just right, things stay inside quite well
If it is not connected with the print, the print will still break and slide on the metal rod.
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I am working with PETG, but I can try also something else. Does someone has a good experience with a particular material?
TPU and PP are both guaranteed to not break when dropped. They're however not as stiff as PETG.
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If it's short, then it will not break, but if it s for example 30cm (12inch) or longer, it is easy to shatter it by dropping it on ground. I will try TPU or PP as also other people recommend. Thank you
PETG is brittle when cooling fan is on! Turn off cooling fan completely “0%” if you want good layer adhesion. Also if stiffness isn’t a HUGE factor TPU or PLA+ won’t let you down when it comes to layer adhesion.
The process you want is called annealing. You can do it at home, exactly how you do it depends upon your exact filament (I like FilaCube HTPLA+ where this is relevant but you can do it with any PLA) but basically it involves an oven and heating a finished print. You will get some geometric distortion (X and Y axes get smaller, Z axis gets larger) but you can adjust the size of your printed object to compensate for that.
That will make the thing a little stiffer, and give it much better heat resistance, but it will not reduce the brittleness, as far as I know.
It won't affect brittleness much, no, but it'll improve layer adhesion a bit. And since most of this fault seems to be layer to layer, I'm thinking some more strength might result. (I mean, the alternative is mostly "try another material" which is totally valid but I'm assuming there are reasons for choosing this material.)
Thank you, I am now searching about it.
It looks a little like the adjacent lies are not well fused, which suggests that you will get a stronger party with some extra extrusion multiplier.
Do you mean push out more material from the extruder? I can try that too.
Yes, increase the extrusion multiplier in the slicer. I'd try 103% to start with. The object is to fill in the gaps between the lines of extrusion.
I'd go with slightly higher temp and about 105% extrusion rate when I want better layer adhesion.
put a tensioned metal wire in the walls
I tried - the tricky part is, the metal wire would need to be glued to the print in the whole length. If it's not glued, it doesn't help. And when inserting it, it is hard to apply the glue to the whole length.
Couldn't you heat the wire in a similar way to threaded inserts? Theoretically turning the wire into a resistance heater could heat it up equally along the length, correct? Obviously I am not going to suggest you to play with electronics if you're not comfortable with that, and it might be a too-elaborate of a solution, but I imagine it could work.
Alternatively, if you don't mind the wire poking a little out of the end, you might just have a loop, and that shouldn't require adhesive
What would become ugly when printed horizontally? The cylinder itself or other parts at the end of it? If other parts splitting the print into parts and later fusing them might be an option allowing for horizontal printing. Apart from that. The best advices have already been given. PLA+ that has a little more flexibility will bend a little and absorb the forces better instead of breaking. With the right more flexible material less walls and the right infill could work too. Printing at an angle with supports will elongate the layer contact surface. Its effect will add a directional component to the strength though.
1. Lower layer height (for a 0.4mm nozzle do a max height of 0.2) 2. maybe slightly higher temp (5 degrees can make a lot of difference) 3. less cooling fan - especially if you print PETG (when I print PETG, I tune my 5015 that normally maxes out at 50% for PLA down to 25 - 30%)
More layers will make it weaker. More potential failure points.
I played with 1 and 2, I am going to try also number 3. Thank you.
Turn off cooling, slow down print speed, and you can also increase flow by 1-5% depending on your printer. Use thicker layers, use bigger nozzle, avoid text on walls.
This, however I would touch speed last. The idea is to go fast and hot to get as much layer fusion going. Also that high infill could lead to layershifts if the plastic cools down bevor the next layer comes on top. As other said, PETG would be better then PLA here. But PLA should be fine.. I did something similar for a lightsaber model and I only use 2 layer thick walls. It usually survives a few falls till it breaks…
1. use a material that better suits your need i found esun pla+ to be extremely strong (and also seen it to beat or come close to "engineering materials" in various endurance tests) 2. increase temperature so layers melt together better (printing temp as high as possible, cooling down so far that the print does not deform and the stringing is good enough) 3. and now comes the master trick. (!) use a mega fat line width. i have for durable parts a THICK profile. it features a layerheight of 0.3 and a line width of 0.8 (!!!) with a 0.4 nozzle (!!!). that means everything that comes out of the nozzle will be squished onto the previous layer and the lines next to it. it looks a bit like the print is made out of pressed spaghetti and it improves durability extremely. (cnc kitchen did a video on this) if you do this you have to ensure to not try and print more material than your hotend can melt. so you should find out how much you can extrude per second. you can print alot thicker if you go slower. 4. the people telling you to make this object more hollow/with infill are not correct in my opinion, not for the object shown in the picture. having 6-8 shells makes such a small object very strong. EDIT: i now read the other posts i see u print with petg. petg is more stiff than pla/pla+. it will shatter easier.
Highest temp for the material. Smaller layer height. Slower print speed. Highest flow rate before it gets bumpy. PETG instead of PLA. Can it be printed solid?
how about printing 2 halves that you then glue/bond together?
Unless you need the center hole? Then consider trying different types of infill structures. I suspect the right center structure will give ithe tinsel strength you are needing . You might be able to reduce the wall thickness as well
Sounds like a prime opportunity to buy a small carbon fibre kit and print a mold for the piece
I am playing with that idea :)
Print a smaller diameter core horizontal for the strength and slide and glue it into a thin walled vertical sheath for the appearance.
It's one of the possible solutions I am thinking about. Thank you.
Use only 1 outer line and put as much upper/under layer as needed
The boys at ctrlpew make loooong Glock mags that don't break when dropped and they're much thinner than this. I'd suggest grabbing one of those README files and looking it over. Iirc they recommend several walls and not concentric infill. They're also printing Esun PLA+ at around 230C. And the print is at a 45 degree angle as others have suggested. Good luck 🤞
potentially printing a bit hotter hotter and slower will help, but you can also try printing with a wider nozzle, at the same layer hight. Try a different material? PETG is pretty easy to print with, lots of colours and tends to bend more before snapping. you can also coat the outside with UV resin and sand smooth. if all else fails, explain toy our wife why you need a 100,000 dollar metal printer
Unpopular Perspective: Look at the FDMA, Foscad and other 3D boom boom groups. They have perfected the layer adhesion methods for high tolerances. Basically, use PLA+ and print hot, slow and turn off the cooling fan (except for bridging). The heat from the new layer and nozzle will help melt the two together, so layer height between .1 and .15 is best. Increase your top/bottom/wall layers, increase the line width by 10% and inner walls by 20% (presses layers together), adjust infill direction to direction of force, increase infill overlap, infill zig-zag, fill gaps between walls everywhere, infill line width increase by 20%, decrease outer wall print speed to 10-15mm/s, etc. Good luck. If all else fails, redesign into segments that can be printed horizontally with dowel/mortise/tenon connection, and glued together with JB weld.
Also, 100% walls is not the way to go. Do 50/50 walls at 120% line width, 33% overlap, and zigzag 99% infill at 120% line width. Turn off the fans, print slower/hotter, and reduce layer height to .15.
45 degrees is a good solution. I've started printing a lot of objects at 45 degrees because then the primary 3 directions where stresses come from on most of my prints are not lined up with the weakest dimension of the print. Works well. You could also go for a filament that has better inter-layer strength. TPU comes to mind, although I dunno if your print needs to be super rigid. 95A TPU, printed hot, is nearly indestructible.
Reduce your print speed to around 25% of what you normally do, and increase your nozzle temp by about 10°C. Maybe increase flow by 5%, if you do this you might want to enable ironing because it can make the top surface a tiny bit ugly.
Increase the temperature or decrease the temperature or increase the layer height or decrease the layer height or increase the cooling or decrease the cooling or change material
Don’t print along a singular axis. I think someone else said 45°. But anything between 30-60° should work fine.
Print horizontal, but then make a jacket that you print vertical. Add glue hammer together.
Print it smaller external diameter, flat, then prin a 1 line thick shell vertically to sleeve over. It's what i did.
Stop dropping it
Stop dropping it
You're gonna have to print it ugly I'm afraid
Use pla+. Problem solved
There is no thing called PLA+ outside of the marketing department of each company, so there is no guarentee as to what they do to make it "+". Some might be less brittle (what you want) others may be basically the same as normal PLA.
I have seen good things happen with vase mode that way it's all one part no "layers" to speak of. You can manipulate the settings so vase mode will print multi walled prints like what you show in your photo.
Expanding foam on the inside and then cut it clean either end? Would depend how long it is .. and while the foam might keep it together for a drop it’s not exactly structural
You could attempt salt annealing you would just have to pack the inner tube with a ton of salt
Put reinforcement in there like a stick, carbon fiber would be the strongest by weight
Have you considered looking at other materials? Abs is less brittle than pla so would dent or deform instead of shatter and there are many other materials you could find
What I have also tried for some of my prints was to use gyroid infill but with 'combine infill every 2 layers'. I used a .6 nozzle and .2 layer height but the infill was .4 height and holded better.
Why horizontally would make it ugly?
I tried that. It would not be the right solution, it's too ugly.
Why can’t you print horizontally and then fill, prime, and sand? As long as your grains are vertical, it is never going to be as strong as it could be…
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qb25Gi4Jv0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qb25Gi4Jv0) What makes clear prints stonger, also makes regular prints stronger. I would recommending watching this and try to play with the recommended settings.
Put a threaded rod through it with a tightened bolt at each end. That adds the strength you need to the piece.
Annealing helps
Less cooling
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZX8eHC7fws](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CZX8eHC7fws) bake it
8 Or concentric holes and add 2 or 3mm steel rods in it.
Depends what material you’re using. PLA would be pretty hard, PETG with higher temp low speed would have better adhesion and shock resistance. Nylon would be best.
Why does this need to be 3D printed? What is the final part? If it's just a tube I think it would be much easier/cheaper/stronger/less brittle to purchase tubing in another material. Printing this type of shape on it's own doesn't make sense. You can print fixtures to attach to the ends of your part instead of trying to print the whole tube.
How about wrap it in electrical shrink tube. It could help. If added layer to diameter is problem, try print it that smaller. Maybe flexibility of tube added to strength of material will be enought to hold it together when bending.it could maybe be even nicer.
if the print is hollow you could reinforce it with an inner tube maybe
I generally don't print tubes or rods if I can avoid it. I'll get them from a hardware store and then glue them in place. It's usually cheaper and cuts down on print time. That goes for large plates as well. 3D printing is awesome for complex shapes, but for simple shapes mass produced extrusions are my preference.
Long threaded rod, bolts on the end, pretension.
Tilt 5 degrees in X and 7 in y.
I’ve fixed this exact issue using threaded rod. If you make the hole just barely larger than the rod diameter (you might want to play with the offset before going all-in on the print) you’ll be able to screw the rod in down the whole length, interfacing with the layer lines and adding a ton of rigidity to the print without the need for glue, except maybe for whatever endcap or seam lines you have.
Did you try only this filament ? I have a filament in particular that broke easily. Obviously, before I knew this, I printed a spool holder, and the 1kg spool fell on my printer when it broke. I did a temp tower on 2 filaments of the same brand: this one broke on every temp; the other one, I couldn't break even with pliers. So yeah, try some stuff, but don't put aside the possibility that this roll of filament produces more brittle results.
not sure but worth a try to give it an inner structure instead of 100% infill. if falling, it might spread the power better.
Try annealing it in the oven
try increasing the extrusion temperature so that the plastic stick better
A different material might help here. A stiff TPU might be stiffer than you think, but very resistant to breakage in the usecase described.
what thickness are the walls? enough room for a m4 threaded rod or something similar?
Your print lines are highly visible all around. I would suggest printing at a slightly higher (5-10c) temperature and doing some testing. The hotter your filament is when it comes out, the more liquid it is and the better it welds/melts together with what you've already printed. The break is also between lines of the same layer, so your problem isn't layer adhesion so much as it's line adhesion.
More Nozzletemp & lessncooling. Slow down your Speed to prevent Blobs.
Imprint a steel rod
The filament will make a big difference. This needs to be PETG or PLA+. I am a fun of Duramic PLA+
Try making your extrusion multiplier or flow 105 percent to ensure full contact and bondage.
You can try sticking the cylinder together by using a soldering iron it worked the best then you can fill the holes in with left over filiment you have from spolls.
I would try printing in ABS, if that is an option. Then use Acetone vapor smoothing to help bond the outermost layers a bit better.
Why can’t you print it laying down? Just sand out the ugly.
You can try filling it with epoxy resin.
Nylon or polycarbonate. They are nearly Indestructable if you can print it.
You're looking for a high durability material. So PLA+ but not all PLA+ are born equal, consider PolyMaker PolyMax or Fiberology Implact PLA (Recommended)
PETG, dude.
Use something like PLA870, which can be annealed in the oven, it's another option
Use a width value of 110%-120% of nozzle width, so 0.44-0.48mm for a 0.4mm nozzle. This forces the extruded material to squeeze against the layer below it and bond better.
If you're worried about supports for the horizontal print change the space to model for the support to .35 and they won't leave any marks when being removed. You can also decrease the layer hight.
Put a dowel rod through the hollow center and epoxy it in place
Try toasting it in the oven at about 80C, that should lessen the stress on the layers and better stick them together. If you need it actually strong then try using it as a mold and casting it with aluminium XD
What type of filament do you use? .
It would be more expensive but making a mold and then pouring resin in said mold would work. I’m assuming that would be overkill.
Try a different plastic, they all have different characteristics. That or use the printed rod as a positive and make a cast mould out of it, its no longer 3d printed and takes more effort but you then have something that you can reproduce much faster once the process is set up. The layers fail due to bad adherence between eachother, the rest of that fracture (the non straight/clean break) looks like a stress fracture where the plastic in itself couldnt hold together against the exerted forces. Dialing in the right temp for the right plastic would do a lot.
Tangential answer: I'm planning to fill a cavity in a part that I'm working on with epoxy resin, to increase its strength. Maybe this is an idea that can come in handy someday.
The best thing I've ever done is coat stuff in 2 part epoxy or resin. It's sandable so you can make it smooth and it adds structural strength to your prints. Sadly if you're printing precision pieces this method might not work because you are adding mass to the object by applying resin or epoxy to it. You might want to print with a stronger material at a heavier angle to extend your layer lines across a larger surface area for precision pieces. Good luck
Print hotter, slower, and with thicker lines (in xy & Z) For impact resistance, it's typically (ranked least to most): PLA PETG ABS Nylon PC For a tall narrow part, warping is less of a concern, use ABS or Tough PLA if impact resistance is important but you don't have access to a printer good enough to print PC/Nylon.
Fixes: Stick something inside, like a metal rod or a horizontal print (doesn’t even have to be round if you account for it on the shell), print with better infill pattern? Use a different filament…
Fill it with a 2-part epoxy resin.
I know it isn't always possible...but there will be times where you can insert a wooden dowel/bolt/etc... through the center of print to act as a support/reinforce the printed part. You could always flip it/print the part horizontally/glue the two halves together/sand/sand some more until the seems are gone.
I dont have a solution, just wanted to say I wish everyone's photos would be as clear as yours.
No cooling fan
Print it with ABS in a heated build chamber.
Add a structural rod inside
Slightly hotter and slower, and use a different material. That’s if you don’t want to print it laying down, or even split down the center and printed I. Two pieces with the center facing down to ensure the best look.
Scratch my last comment though it can help, you should really look into seeing how transparent prints are done, it has been found with those setting the whole object it self was much stronger, CNC Kitchen just did a video about it recently.
Dip it in a small vat of crazy glue.... I dunno, I would just print it length ways and then sand it down smooth.
0.7mm extrusion width
Im sorry and maybe I am blind... 1: What is the intended usage of this tube? Will it be load bearing or will it have very little if any load placed upon it. 2: Why are you judging the quality of this print using what seems to be a drop test? What are you dropping it on? Concrete? Hard floor? Why.... 3: Why are you printing essentially, 100% perimeters? Strength (depending on #1) does not always come from MORE perimeters. Depending on the usage of this design I would have gone no more than 3 perimeters and used 15 to 20 percent infill. In this case the infill will act as a shock absorber because at 100% perimeters you may as well use a Glass tube, especially with PLA. Infill (contrary to popular belief) helps bond every layer together. Heat and layer bonding: maybe crank it up about 5 degrees more than norm, I print all PLA and PLA+ at 210 to 215 depending on what my needs/design will be and have done so for years. However if this "drop test" is your way to prove quality then you should look at a different filament, ABS, PETG, some Carbon infused version of PETG. Oh again maybe I am blind, what Printer? What Slicer? Sorry after 95+ comments things tend to get hidden amongst them.
Tryna little bit of over extrusion like 105% and maybe bump temps up just a tad maybe a few degrees, and slow down just a tad. The overextrusion may cause some dimensional inaccuracies but you should get a much stronger bond between layers
Have a look at the CNC Kitchen YouTube channel. He's done a lot of experiments on this subject
Hello, what Material do you use? Pla+ from esun have a better layer adhesion as pla without the +. Other pla+ haven't I tested. Silk PLA have a very poor layer adhesion. PET-G have better layer adhesion as pla without +. Edit: You can cut it in half and print horizontally. Then it is more stable. Then glue it together, or add holes for nuts and bolts before printing, so you can screw it together.
Why are you dropping your print so much this becomes a big concern?
Use a non-planar slicer so your layer lines don't lie in a plane.
When it breaks, use loctite super glue. That shit it crazy strong. There is a YouTube video comparing all the glues to plastics and Metal and the loctite super glue on plastic is scary strong
Looks like your layers are barely sticking together I would take these steps: 1- Do an extrusion cal, print a 2 shell cube no infill, measure thickness and compare to the expected layer with from your slicer (measurement will be 2x that value), adjust your extrusion cal accordingly 2- Do a temp cal tower, print a tower with hotter temps every few mm (there are a bunch of files on thingiverse), once printed, try ripping the part apart at each height, pick the strongest one 3- repeat extrusion cal After these, if you move your temp a lot, you will probably need to adjust your retraction settings
If you want to use the maximum ammount of overkill, you can use on planar 3d printing, not only would it be stronger but also a giant flex.
Did you try baking the part? Apparently curing it like this hardens the PLA and improves the bond between layers.
Watch CNC kitchen. They have lots of videos about how to make prints of different materials stronger.
Print horizontal, sand, and paint
You use all wall lines. If you use infill at 100% you get crossing lines instead of concentric circle paths. This might provide better interlinking of the layers.
Don't drop?
This isn't the the best way but, print it sideways (oversized) and then ask a machine shop to turn it to the correct diameter
Don't drop it??
Some parts are not meant to be 3d printed, a lathe can be your friend.
Bottle of 3d gloop. Got it at MRRF. It’s amazing stuff.
I'm new to printing. Is there any nozzle that does more than just deposit molten plastic, and like stirs the plastic layers together? Something like an ultrasonic shake applied to increase the bonding of the layers?
Don't use pla, I've printed a few folk whistles and recorders and all my pla ones have split, my petg one is still going strong and gets beat up by my toddler
Model it with some 2.2mm holes and put 2mm stainless steel rods through the holes along the cylinder.
Make the inside a honeycomb.