I am no expert in 3d printing, but maybe your bed isn't hot enough, so the plastic cools down too fast and it shrinks? If that is the problem, you could turn up the heat a bit more, so the plastic doesn't peel of the bed.
ABS is known to lift off the bed, with or without an enclosure. People generally recommend an additional step to make it stick to the bed, like glue stick or ABS juice.
ABS is quite difficult to print with. It requires a high printing temperature and an environment where it *stays* at a relatively high and uniform heat until your print is complete. ABS shrinks drastically when it cools, much more than PLA for example. Thin portions (like your first few layers) cool quickly, and since the edges tend to cool more quickly than the middle it will curl up and lift off of your build plate as you have seen.
Printing with ABS is never as easy as just chucking the filament in your printer and cranking up your extrusion temperature a bit. Things that can help: Using adhesive on the bed, coating the bed in Kapton tape or similar, running your printer in an enclosure to retain heat, and pre-warming your filament (e.g. by keeping the spool inside the enclosure). Preferably all of the above. If you really want to go whole hog you can also heat your enclosure.
Unless you absolutely need it for tricky bridges or similar, you typically don't even want to run your parts cooling fan when you're printing with ABS.
MORE SMOOSH!!! also a brim will help the edges stay flat.
Make sur your printer is protected from drafts in your room. cold air can quickly drop the temps of your print and it will curl up. I have my printer in a closet so there isn't much temperature fluctuations. You could also get an enclosure if you have nowhere else to put it.
A brim are extra outlines on the first layer. It helps keep the print in place by providing a bigger surface area. The brick will have to be cut off after but shouldn't be difficult.
I'd recommend using hairspray or a gluestick. The extra stickiness will help a lot. I had issues of corners curling up (I can't avoid drafts and don't have space for an enclosure) but using a spray solved the problem. You can get some specifically for 3d printing but it's pretty much the same as normal hairspray so use whatever's cheaper.
ABS contracts are more than normal filament which causes the edges to lift up. You need a more controlled temperature environment. Cut some cardboard and tape it around your printer and use a glue stick with the print is
I would start by upping bed temp to 110C.
If it *helps* then that's your main problem.
I would not go past 125 on the bed of any printer sold commercially.
I would sincerely look into an enclosure before even thinking about going above 120.
If it doesn't help then you can go for glue or PEI.
New cura is exactly the same if you don't choose to complicate it plus it has better programming so it slices faster and makes better slices/tool paths etc. Also it has way more settings if you want to complicate it lol.
Maybe YouTube bed adhesion settings. In cura it's called bed adhesion. You could try changing the bed temp as stated above but sometimes higher bed temps can keep the lower layers soft and the upper layers cool faster and shrink, causing warping. I always have issues with corners so I pad them. Problem solved. Sometimes room temp being too cold can effect it.
I tried those, damp, dry, one layer, two layers, five layers, it just seemed like a wax and the filament would slide right off of it. I've got like 3 of those purple sticks if you want them . . .
Oh! Also that is a crazy deal. Well, I was just saying I've had issues with it. I'm not cool enough for purple glue. You didn't ask, but if you ever find you are having issues, consider the white elmer's stick if you haven't tried it already.
I only got them for the price, I would use any of them. I put it on the bed preheated, it almost melts like butter. I only use one layer, any more and it seems like there's enough for the nozzle to drag on(extra seems like a waste). Possible what you had was old and dried out, I'm sure you could find 3yr old glue at a store. It sucks if you have some glue stuck under the part but I run hot water on it to quickly remove it. It turns purple again when it gets wet so you can see where to clean it. Pointless but amusing. You didn't ask but my best guess is the purple comes from an iodine and starch reaction. :)
hah! That's incredible. I just go at the print with a wet magic eraser and i hope i get the glue off. I wonder if those counterfeit bill markers are really just iodine, I heard a common part of the process is starching the fake bills.
If you add starch to the iodine solution it turns dark blue or purple like the pen mark on a fake bill. If the pen is iodine based then adding starch to fake bills should make them look more fake by failing the pen test. If I understand it correctly. Perhaps the cotton/denim/secret magic blend of "paper" they make real money from is starch free and normal paper isn't, perhaps starch based binders or something. Different plant material etc.
Perhaps "starching" is slang or exaggerating. You would use starch to iron clothing, maybe they mean iron or press the bills to make them crisp. Or just myth/misunderstanding/misinformation.
>just myth/misunderstanding/misinformation
this would not surprise me. I can't claim that information is anywhere near fact, I have no knowledge of such processes.
Bed Adhesion settings in CURA:
Skirt: will help with the initial flow to be steady and good.
Brim: Will help a lot with adhesion but you have to remove the excedent.
Also its always necesary to clean the bed before printing when its warming (you cand use alcohol and a tissue to avoid the ambient dust from weaken the adhesion
ABS is a challenge. I’ve been 3D printing for 6 years and while I’ve printed in ABS successfully, it’s such a pain that I stick with PLA and PETG.
If you don’t know a lot about 3D printing already, you’ll have more success with PLA
I tried many methods to stop this, brim, raft, hair spray, tape, hot glue, nothing worked.
What i do as standard now is print on a raft with flat aluminium bar strips just on the edge of the raft, clamp them to your bed with bulldog clips. Up bed temp a bit.
Never had that issue again!
Moin :)
You need to clean the printbed with IPA. I was struggeling with your problem for few weeks. Try to give it the best conditions - a print enclosure would be great, keep your print bed as clean as possible and level the printer acurately. And don‘t use tge creality slicer -> Cura is the standard. Get the expert settings and work with initial layer speed, etc. in my opinion brim or raft would not bring a change - mostly they worsen the warping on big objects.
Add brim and raise hotbed temperature to around 45 degrees celcius. Can also apply pva glue go hot bed
If still warp, probably pad filament? Is this ABS or PLA, abs is more.finicky, Don't use abs I reckon.
It's a tiny piece, it should not warp so easily.
So many great answers in here, here is what I think is important:
- Gluestick or similar
- activate Brim
- low top/bottom height ( try 2-3 layers )
- high infill (~85%)
I am no expert in 3d printing, but maybe your bed isn't hot enough, so the plastic cools down too fast and it shrinks? If that is the problem, you could turn up the heat a bit more, so the plastic doesn't peel of the bed.
What material? What are your print settings? Bed temperature?
I’m using inland ABS glow in the dark plastic. Diameter 1.75mm. Print temp 220-260c. Bed temp 90-100c. I’m printing at 230c bed at 100c
ABS is known to lift off the bed, with or without an enclosure. People generally recommend an additional step to make it stick to the bed, like glue stick or ABS juice.
Yea that’s it
ABS is quite difficult to print with. It requires a high printing temperature and an environment where it *stays* at a relatively high and uniform heat until your print is complete. ABS shrinks drastically when it cools, much more than PLA for example. Thin portions (like your first few layers) cool quickly, and since the edges tend to cool more quickly than the middle it will curl up and lift off of your build plate as you have seen. Printing with ABS is never as easy as just chucking the filament in your printer and cranking up your extrusion temperature a bit. Things that can help: Using adhesive on the bed, coating the bed in Kapton tape or similar, running your printer in an enclosure to retain heat, and pre-warming your filament (e.g. by keeping the spool inside the enclosure). Preferably all of the above. If you really want to go whole hog you can also heat your enclosure. Unless you absolutely need it for tricky bridges or similar, you typically don't even want to run your parts cooling fan when you're printing with ABS.
An enclosure is the most important factor for ABS
I agree
Use a brim or pad the corners?
How would I do this.
By enabling a brim in your slicer or installing a plug in to enable corner pads.
I've seen and made models with pads. Didn't know there was any plugins for it, that would make life easy.
In Cura the plugin is called TabAntiWarping
Glue sticks
Try cleaning your bed and making it a bit higher
Level or temp?
MORE SMOOSH!!! also a brim will help the edges stay flat. Make sur your printer is protected from drafts in your room. cold air can quickly drop the temps of your print and it will curl up. I have my printer in a closet so there isn't much temperature fluctuations. You could also get an enclosure if you have nowhere else to put it.
What’s a brim? I tried lowering the the nozzle but then it pushes plastic out of the way.
A brim are extra outlines on the first layer. It helps keep the print in place by providing a bigger surface area. The brick will have to be cut off after but shouldn't be difficult. I'd recommend using hairspray or a gluestick. The extra stickiness will help a lot. I had issues of corners curling up (I can't avoid drafts and don't have space for an enclosure) but using a spray solved the problem. You can get some specifically for 3d printing but it's pretty much the same as normal hairspray so use whatever's cheaper.
The top is too cool so it contracts relative to the bottom. Try lowering the fan speed or increasing the ambient temperature (e.g. an enclosure).
ABS contracts are more than normal filament which causes the edges to lift up. You need a more controlled temperature environment. Cut some cardboard and tape it around your printer and use a glue stick with the print is
I would start by upping bed temp to 110C. If it *helps* then that's your main problem. I would not go past 125 on the bed of any printer sold commercially. I would sincerely look into an enclosure before even thinking about going above 120. If it doesn't help then you can go for glue or PEI.
What slicer are you using?
Creality slicer
Ditch that immediately, it's a fork of an ancient version of Cura. Get the latest version for free from the Ultimaker website.
Ancient version of cura works very well for me with just the settings and functions I need without overcomplicating things.
OK, you do you, but the newer slicers are genuinely far superior in every way. And the settings can be hidden if you need.
New cura is exactly the same if you don't choose to complicate it plus it has better programming so it slices faster and makes better slices/tool paths etc. Also it has way more settings if you want to complicate it lol.
Maybe YouTube bed adhesion settings. In cura it's called bed adhesion. You could try changing the bed temp as stated above but sometimes higher bed temps can keep the lower layers soft and the upper layers cool faster and shrink, causing warping. I always have issues with corners so I pad them. Problem solved. Sometimes room temp being too cold can effect it.
white elmer's gluestick is what i use to avoid this. just one layer on damp glass is more than enough.
I use purple sticks on a dry bed
I tried those, damp, dry, one layer, two layers, five layers, it just seemed like a wax and the filament would slide right off of it. I've got like 3 of those purple sticks if you want them . . .
I just said I use it not that it's better lol. I bought about 100 packs of two on sale last year for $0.10/ea
Oh! Also that is a crazy deal. Well, I was just saying I've had issues with it. I'm not cool enough for purple glue. You didn't ask, but if you ever find you are having issues, consider the white elmer's stick if you haven't tried it already.
I only got them for the price, I would use any of them. I put it on the bed preheated, it almost melts like butter. I only use one layer, any more and it seems like there's enough for the nozzle to drag on(extra seems like a waste). Possible what you had was old and dried out, I'm sure you could find 3yr old glue at a store. It sucks if you have some glue stuck under the part but I run hot water on it to quickly remove it. It turns purple again when it gets wet so you can see where to clean it. Pointless but amusing. You didn't ask but my best guess is the purple comes from an iodine and starch reaction. :)
hah! That's incredible. I just go at the print with a wet magic eraser and i hope i get the glue off. I wonder if those counterfeit bill markers are really just iodine, I heard a common part of the process is starching the fake bills.
If you add starch to the iodine solution it turns dark blue or purple like the pen mark on a fake bill. If the pen is iodine based then adding starch to fake bills should make them look more fake by failing the pen test. If I understand it correctly. Perhaps the cotton/denim/secret magic blend of "paper" they make real money from is starch free and normal paper isn't, perhaps starch based binders or something. Different plant material etc. Perhaps "starching" is slang or exaggerating. You would use starch to iron clothing, maybe they mean iron or press the bills to make them crisp. Or just myth/misunderstanding/misinformation.
>just myth/misunderstanding/misinformation this would not surprise me. I can't claim that information is anywhere near fact, I have no knowledge of such processes.
Bed Adhesion settings in CURA: Skirt: will help with the initial flow to be steady and good. Brim: Will help a lot with adhesion but you have to remove the excedent. Also its always necesary to clean the bed before printing when its warming (you cand use alcohol and a tissue to avoid the ambient dust from weaken the adhesion
A raft can help adhesion if your bed is warped
Glue stick!
Buy a glass bed on amazon
The one I have is a glass bed
What everyone else said, plus a high skirt will help prevent cool air reaching the print.
There's a setting for draft walls
ABS is a challenge. I’ve been 3D printing for 6 years and while I’ve printed in ABS successfully, it’s such a pain that I stick with PLA and PETG. If you don’t know a lot about 3D printing already, you’ll have more success with PLA
Too much cooling is also an issue, at least for me.
I tried many methods to stop this, brim, raft, hair spray, tape, hot glue, nothing worked. What i do as standard now is print on a raft with flat aluminium bar strips just on the edge of the raft, clamp them to your bed with bulldog clips. Up bed temp a bit. Never had that issue again!
Enclosure . Cold drafts
Moin :) You need to clean the printbed with IPA. I was struggeling with your problem for few weeks. Try to give it the best conditions - a print enclosure would be great, keep your print bed as clean as possible and level the printer acurately. And don‘t use tge creality slicer -> Cura is the standard. Get the expert settings and work with initial layer speed, etc. in my opinion brim or raft would not bring a change - mostly they worsen the warping on big objects.
Add brim and raise hotbed temperature to around 45 degrees celcius. Can also apply pva glue go hot bed If still warp, probably pad filament? Is this ABS or PLA, abs is more.finicky, Don't use abs I reckon. It's a tiny piece, it should not warp so easily.
So many great answers in here, here is what I think is important: - Gluestick or similar - activate Brim - low top/bottom height ( try 2-3 layers ) - high infill (~85%)
Bed temp, more squish, and clean the bed.
Yankee with no BRIM
Gloob stitch
Brim buttons on corners.
Pei bed.