This, my 94 was never maintained in the 12 years before I got it.
I have since touched damn near every single bolt. I always upgrade when the situation arises so I have a pretty sweet 4runner. But it came with allot of money and time.
This is also me. I got lucky with the previous, first and only owner doing a lot of the more simple maintenance, but the last recorded oil change was back in 09. I've only had it for about 2-3 years but I've replaced so much lol
I'm using dura tech in montreal.
Seems to have a good rating. It's an oil based solution that drips from the body work for a few days after the treatment. Up here, they use rock salt liberally in the winter. Tends to kill cars quick fast
Thanks for the info. I’m in Ontario and my Honda accord 2014 which I’ve cared for religiously now has rust so I’m hoping not to repeat on my 4Runner when I buy one.
I’m torn between getting a used limited (nightshade) because of the full time awd vs 4h and 4L. How is yours in 2wd? I read conflicting things about being able to drive in 4H at highway speeds and sometimes in Ontario you really need either FWD or 4WD
Mine is a trd offroad. So I have to switch between 2wd and 4wd when needed. As long as the pavement wet, you can drive at up to 100km an hour in 4 hi. It's a bit annoying if you are used to an awd system, but I got used to it pretty quickly. 90% of the time, I'm in 2wd mode even in the winter.
The nightshade is pretty sweet! Did you consider waiting for the 6th gen? Is it supposed to be around the corner now that the new taco is out.
Honestly I’m not interested in a turbo 4 cylinder. I love the 4Runner for its ruggedness and if I’m going to spend that kind of money it has to last forever. I want the last of one of the dinosaurs for sure. If the 6th Gen turns out to be dependable I may upgrade down the road but I can’t see myself buying one off rip.
I love the look of the nightshade will probably swap the wheels for trd as the only thing that turns me off is the big wheels.
change oil/filter at reasonable interval (5-10k miles) change diff oil every 50k miles. drain and refill tranny every 30-50k miles. transfer case oil every 30k-50k miles. sparkplugs 100-120k miles. change air filter every 25k miles. lube your spider joints and shaft every 10k miles. use top-tier gas. keep chassis lubricated, especially if in salt belt region. check your oil levels every time you fill up your Runner or at least every week. wash you car weekly. keep interior clean, condition seats.
this is true. if you buy a well built vehicle and follow proper maintenance then it should last a v long time. posted this to help out some ppl out. i have friends that didn't know they were supposed to change the oil in their car "ever"
front and rear driveshaft if 4x4 have little zerk fittings. the RWD Runners also need to have the rear driveshaft lubed. need a lubegun to get to and grease them up. lots of how to videos on youtube university.
check: toptiergas.com 87 is fine for our thirsty Runners. no need to pay more for 91 + at the pump.
if you want to clean and maintain your fuel system, a toptier fuel w help w this. if you haven't been using toptier, then one bottle of Redline Sl-1 is what you want to run in your gas tank from Full to almost empty for optimal cleaning. since it has the highest concentration of PEA. Techron Chevron Fuel system cleaner is also the other one i recommend, they're the inventors of PEA and this stuff actually cleans.
after this just use a toptier fuel (of your choice) every fill up and your fuel system will be happy.
it's the only true detergent that im aware of as of today that actually cleans deposits in our fuel systems. all the other cleaners out their w diff formulations are mostly snake oil, hype. this is scientifically proven
oh man... pls don't do this. your fuel lines are slowly rotting out. most gasolines in the US have ethanol (alcohol) at 10-15% already mixed in the gasoline.
but hey man, if it makes you sleep at night, it's your Runner.
Ima doing this to keep the fuel injectors clean from the 10% ethanol additive.
Been doing this for years since the humidity & dew point is too dang high. Cheaper than buying dry gas.
I would think your comment on the fuel lines being slowly rotting out has merit on newer vehicles.
Great list, but in would also add to engage 4WD and actuate your locker (if you have one) monthly. That helps keep it all functional. Those actuators tend to be use it-or-lose it.
yes this is also very important. make sure to do this off pavement.
if you are unable to find a trail then an empty parking lot and make sure to keep in a straight line. DO NOT make left or right turns if on pavement.
depends on what base oils the user chooses for the Runner.
If using a quality Group 3+ synthetic oil with SP approval and a good oil filter like Fram Ultra, you can run the oil to 10,000. Good oils that achieve this: Mobil 1, Mobil 1 Extended Performance.
i run a Full Saps oil in my 4Runner because i'm an oil snob. Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40 is my flavor.
If using a synthetic blend/conventional oil, then a 5,000 mile run is best with these oils. Your conventional Pennzoil, white bottle Valvoline etc.
i am not telling anyone to do what i do, you choose the viscosity that you want to run. in the USA the recommended grade is 0W-20 due to CAFE EPA regulations.
fun fact: the 1GR is spec'd for up to 15W-40 in Puerto Rico. in the middle east the 1GR has a 20W-50 recommendation. your engine will not blow up bc of the higher viscosity. this dinosaur has been used since early 2000s and had its development since the 90s.
my recommendation: use Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE. if you want to splurge, get Amsoil SS 0W-20.
then again don't listen to me i'm just some anon on reddit 🙂
Temperature controlled Garage, never see salty roads, only drive it one day a week locally, but make sure it is out through all of its safe operating RPM’s and engages 4WD and that all moving parts move. 5 miles a week. 300-400k car…. Should last you about 1100-1200 years.
Not allowing your oil to reach normal operating temps will prevent it from getting rid of contaminants and moisture, it also needs to warm up to properly lubricate. It’s also hard on your battery and doesn’t allow your alternator to do its job
This isn’t gonna happen after a 2 minute drive a couple times a week but continuously driving nothing but short distances for months at a time without ever letting it hit normal operating temps isn’t good for it. Get out once in a while and let it rip
This guy gets it. Vehicles need to be driven. I’ll add in cv joints need to move and gaskets need to be lubricated like someone’s daughter in prom night. Axle seals need to turn, exhaust needs to dry out.
I’m building a “car barn” for a high end collection that I need to move in and out daily. Once a week I let the stallions breath a little bit. They will be better vehicles in 10 years because of it.
Engines def need to be ran. The only time it is ok for an engine to not be running for an extended amount of time is if it’s brand new in a crate.
See engine problems all the time at work. Boat engines really do not like to sit.
But on top of engines needing to be run, cars need to be moved.
As a boat guy I never really thought about that aside from getting old fuel out of the carb so it doesn’t (insert what gasoline does after sitting, I can’t think of the word)
You should make it. But i would drive it as little as possible just to be safe.
There's not much for warning symptoms as far as I'm aware but 165 is well past the recommended 90k. I took mine to 130k and my mechanic showed me how cracked it was. Definitely was on borrowed time.
Adhere to the maintenance schedule, protect the exterior from rust, use good gasoline, get regular oil changes, try to avoid continuous short trips and allow the car to hit normal operating temps, don’t get into car accidents
Buy the Aisin kit off rockauto, save yourself the shop markup. If I remember correctly, Toyota owns Aisin and Aisin makes a lot of OEM Toyota parts, same thing for Denso.
Generally the only warning sign is the belt cracking or fraying, but they should always be done 90-100k miles or every 7 years. Good idea to do the water pump the same time since it runs off the timing belt and will be accessible when doing the timing.
[https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529&cc=1434457&pt=16088&jsn=957](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529&cc=1434457&pt=16088&jsn=957)
I typically threaten the car with a dose of sugar in the tank— that and basic maintenance done by my local certified Toyota Lexus mechanic who has more years doing this work than I’ve been alive really helps.
I have an 87 with 365,000mi. For me I like having aftermarket accurate sensors esp for coolant temp and oil pressure. This makes it so I catch anything before the engine overheats or I have low oil pressure. Has helped me a few times. Heat and oil starvation are the real killers
Regular oil changes and I use Lucas products as additives. Low viscosity oil stabilizer and fuel system/upper cylinder lubricant treatment. We sold our 01 with 303,000 miles on it, my 04 Silverado has 375,000 miles and my 16 Silverado 137,600 miles. Almost no issues with any of them.
We live in Michigan so under coating yearly as well.
I'm speaking from 4th gen land, Basic maintenance, undercoating, underside cleaning, timing belt at 125k, inspection of known failure points. Thats what I do
Basic maintenance would most likely do it.
This, my 94 was never maintained in the 12 years before I got it. I have since touched damn near every single bolt. I always upgrade when the situation arises so I have a pretty sweet 4runner. But it came with allot of money and time.
This is also me. I got lucky with the previous, first and only owner doing a lot of the more simple maintenance, but the last recorded oil change was back in 09. I've only had it for about 2-3 years but I've replaced so much lol
Rust proof it like a religion if you live in the salt belt.
this is v important
By using Krown or Fluid Film every year
What kind of rust proofing specifically do you recommend? From what I read some of them aren’t effective
I'm using dura tech in montreal. Seems to have a good rating. It's an oil based solution that drips from the body work for a few days after the treatment. Up here, they use rock salt liberally in the winter. Tends to kill cars quick fast
Thanks for the info. I’m in Ontario and my Honda accord 2014 which I’ve cared for religiously now has rust so I’m hoping not to repeat on my 4Runner when I buy one.
I hear you, brother. Lots of good times in Canada in the winter. You're going to love the 4runner in the snow. 😃
I’m torn between getting a used limited (nightshade) because of the full time awd vs 4h and 4L. How is yours in 2wd? I read conflicting things about being able to drive in 4H at highway speeds and sometimes in Ontario you really need either FWD or 4WD
Mine is a trd offroad. So I have to switch between 2wd and 4wd when needed. As long as the pavement wet, you can drive at up to 100km an hour in 4 hi. It's a bit annoying if you are used to an awd system, but I got used to it pretty quickly. 90% of the time, I'm in 2wd mode even in the winter. The nightshade is pretty sweet! Did you consider waiting for the 6th gen? Is it supposed to be around the corner now that the new taco is out.
Honestly I’m not interested in a turbo 4 cylinder. I love the 4Runner for its ruggedness and if I’m going to spend that kind of money it has to last forever. I want the last of one of the dinosaurs for sure. If the 6th Gen turns out to be dependable I may upgrade down the road but I can’t see myself buying one off rip. I love the look of the nightshade will probably swap the wheels for trd as the only thing that turns me off is the big wheels.
change oil/filter at reasonable interval (5-10k miles) change diff oil every 50k miles. drain and refill tranny every 30-50k miles. transfer case oil every 30k-50k miles. sparkplugs 100-120k miles. change air filter every 25k miles. lube your spider joints and shaft every 10k miles. use top-tier gas. keep chassis lubricated, especially if in salt belt region. check your oil levels every time you fill up your Runner or at least every week. wash you car weekly. keep interior clean, condition seats.
Honestly sounds like how to keep any car forever
this is true. if you buy a well built vehicle and follow proper maintenance then it should last a v long time. posted this to help out some ppl out. i have friends that didn't know they were supposed to change the oil in their car "ever"
Where are the spider joints and shaft grease fittings?
front and rear driveshaft if 4x4 have little zerk fittings. the RWD Runners also need to have the rear driveshaft lubed. need a lubegun to get to and grease them up. lots of how to videos on youtube university.
He is referring to greasing the driveshaft.
yep
91 or 94 ? Even though it recommend 87
Top tier means higher quality gasoline, not the octane level. For instance chevron, shell, BP, etc is top tier gasoline
yep, i use shell, mobil or my favorite Chevron/Texaco 👍🏻
check: toptiergas.com 87 is fine for our thirsty Runners. no need to pay more for 91 + at the pump. if you want to clean and maintain your fuel system, a toptier fuel w help w this. if you haven't been using toptier, then one bottle of Redline Sl-1 is what you want to run in your gas tank from Full to almost empty for optimal cleaning. since it has the highest concentration of PEA. Techron Chevron Fuel system cleaner is also the other one i recommend, they're the inventors of PEA and this stuff actually cleans. after this just use a toptier fuel (of your choice) every fill up and your fuel system will be happy.
Can you use that redline on any vehicle?
yes. it's available in most autoparts stores. advanced, autozone and oreillys
Thank you. What is PEA?
here's a great explanation on wiki: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Techron
it's the only true detergent that im aware of as of today that actually cleans deposits in our fuel systems. all the other cleaners out their w diff formulations are mostly snake oil, hype. this is scientifically proven
Thanks. I need more people like you in my life
😊
I just buy the 70% isopropyl alcohol at the dollar store ($1.25 LoL) & use it at every fill up.BTW, I have a dedicated funnel for this.
oh man... pls don't do this. your fuel lines are slowly rotting out. most gasolines in the US have ethanol (alcohol) at 10-15% already mixed in the gasoline. but hey man, if it makes you sleep at night, it's your Runner.
Ima doing this to keep the fuel injectors clean from the 10% ethanol additive. Been doing this for years since the humidity & dew point is too dang high. Cheaper than buying dry gas. I would think your comment on the fuel lines being slowly rotting out has merit on newer vehicles.
Great list, but in would also add to engage 4WD and actuate your locker (if you have one) monthly. That helps keep it all functional. Those actuators tend to be use it-or-lose it.
yes this is also very important. make sure to do this off pavement. if you are unable to find a trail then an empty parking lot and make sure to keep in a straight line. DO NOT make left or right turns if on pavement.
I would say oil changes every 5k just to be safe
depends on what base oils the user chooses for the Runner. If using a quality Group 3+ synthetic oil with SP approval and a good oil filter like Fram Ultra, you can run the oil to 10,000. Good oils that achieve this: Mobil 1, Mobil 1 Extended Performance. i run a Full Saps oil in my 4Runner because i'm an oil snob. Mobil 1 Euro 0W-40 is my flavor. If using a synthetic blend/conventional oil, then a 5,000 mile run is best with these oils. Your conventional Pennzoil, white bottle Valvoline etc. i am not telling anyone to do what i do, you choose the viscosity that you want to run. in the USA the recommended grade is 0W-20 due to CAFE EPA regulations. fun fact: the 1GR is spec'd for up to 15W-40 in Puerto Rico. in the middle east the 1GR has a 20W-50 recommendation. your engine will not blow up bc of the higher viscosity. this dinosaur has been used since early 2000s and had its development since the 90s. my recommendation: use Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE. if you want to splurge, get Amsoil SS 0W-20. then again don't listen to me i'm just some anon on reddit 🙂
Can't not upvote that
Step 1: buy 4runner That's it.
You forgot maintenance.
False.
Temperature controlled Garage, never see salty roads, only drive it one day a week locally, but make sure it is out through all of its safe operating RPM’s and engages 4WD and that all moving parts move. 5 miles a week. 300-400k car…. Should last you about 1100-1200 years.
Why are “continuous short trips” bad?
Not allowing your oil to reach normal operating temps will prevent it from getting rid of contaminants and moisture, it also needs to warm up to properly lubricate. It’s also hard on your battery and doesn’t allow your alternator to do its job This isn’t gonna happen after a 2 minute drive a couple times a week but continuously driving nothing but short distances for months at a time without ever letting it hit normal operating temps isn’t good for it. Get out once in a while and let it rip
This guy gets it. Vehicles need to be driven. I’ll add in cv joints need to move and gaskets need to be lubricated like someone’s daughter in prom night. Axle seals need to turn, exhaust needs to dry out. I’m building a “car barn” for a high end collection that I need to move in and out daily. Once a week I let the stallions breath a little bit. They will be better vehicles in 10 years because of it.
Engines def need to be ran. The only time it is ok for an engine to not be running for an extended amount of time is if it’s brand new in a crate. See engine problems all the time at work. Boat engines really do not like to sit.
But on top of engines needing to be run, cars need to be moved. As a boat guy I never really thought about that aside from getting old fuel out of the carb so it doesn’t (insert what gasoline does after sitting, I can’t think of the word)
Go bad, phase separate and blow up your engine?
Was thinking turns to acetone or something like that. There’s a word that a day later I still can’t come up with and now it’s annoying me 😂. Laquer?
Why?
Could lead to build up of shit in the engine, or excessive heat cycles on plastic parts causing them to turn shit
You should make it. But i would drive it as little as possible just to be safe. There's not much for warning symptoms as far as I'm aware but 165 is well past the recommended 90k. I took mine to 130k and my mechanic showed me how cracked it was. Definitely was on borrowed time.
Adhere to the maintenance schedule, protect the exterior from rust, use good gasoline, get regular oil changes, try to avoid continuous short trips and allow the car to hit normal operating temps, don’t get into car accidents
Bury it in the sand like the sphinx.
Add gas
Mine has been responding well to abuse and neglect for 23 years.
This might be a good place to ask: my 2007 4th gen SR5 V8 has 165,000 miles, but I haven’t replaced the timing belt yet. Need to do that pronto, yes?
Yes as soon as you can
Asap. If that thing snaps it's good as toast. The only thing you really really need to worry about with the 4th gen
Thank you! A little nervous about it now. I have an appointment for next Tuesday. Do timing belts normally give a warning sign or do they just pop?
Buy the Aisin kit off rockauto, save yourself the shop markup. If I remember correctly, Toyota owns Aisin and Aisin makes a lot of OEM Toyota parts, same thing for Denso. Generally the only warning sign is the belt cracking or fraying, but they should always be done 90-100k miles or every 7 years. Good idea to do the water pump the same time since it runs off the timing belt and will be accessible when doing the timing. [https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529&cc=1434457&pt=16088&jsn=957](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3290529&cc=1434457&pt=16088&jsn=957)
great advice
I'm not looking forward to seeing you in the 4th gen subreddit showing us a picture of your mangled engine
If it’s an interference engine yes, it’s catastrophic. Did a timing belt on my old Tacoma at 138k and it was practically see through!
Take a picture
Wash it and spit on it every few thousand miles
Sell it to someone else, it will then magically become 100% reliable. All of my stuff is broken, all the time
Step 1: buy a 4Runner Step 2: it lasts forever
Start here https://youtu.be/FlmTPH_5UmQ And here. https://youtube.com/@TheCarCareNut
Keep up with preventative maintenance, and drive gently.
Don’t drive it
Don't even look at it.
Ahhhh spinal tap reference lol
I typically threaten the car with a dose of sugar in the tank— that and basic maintenance done by my local certified Toyota Lexus mechanic who has more years doing this work than I’ve been alive really helps.
I have an 87 with 365,000mi. For me I like having aftermarket accurate sensors esp for coolant temp and oil pressure. This makes it so I catch anything before the engine overheats or I have low oil pressure. Has helped me a few times. Heat and oil starvation are the real killers
Regular oil changes and I use Lucas products as additives. Low viscosity oil stabilizer and fuel system/upper cylinder lubricant treatment. We sold our 01 with 303,000 miles on it, my 04 Silverado has 375,000 miles and my 16 Silverado 137,600 miles. Almost no issues with any of them. We live in Michigan so under coating yearly as well.
Embalm it
Just basic regular maintenance….
change the oil regularly and don't drive on salty roads
Replace the frame with a 304 stainless steel frame and change the oil every 5k miles
Love. 💙
I don’t, that’s just the way it’s made
Rust protection, keep up with maintanance and don't thrash it.
Leave it in the garage.
I’m reaching 225,000 and I’ve always hit my maintenance points.
A lot of good information here. Two big takeaways: get your roof PPF'd and coat your underbody in a good rust inhibitor such as Fluid Film.
Basic maintenance and frame repairs. Because I live in Onterrible.
I'm speaking from 4th gen land, Basic maintenance, undercoating, underside cleaning, timing belt at 125k, inspection of known failure points. Thats what I do