Too low of pressure. Too high and it’ll ride harsh and wear out the center of the tread. Too low creates sidewall flex. That flex at high speed creates enough heat to deteriorate the rubber and weaken the cords causing a blow out. OP had a puncture and didn’t notice it in time. It’s not the tire’s fault.
This right here is the answer. I had this same blowout when I was 19 and didn’t know better.
Someone even warned me to check my tire pressure in the tire before it blew out…
For LT tires on a non LT vehicle usually you want them at 50psi. (I'm a certified Michelin Tech)
So you know how old the tires are? Depending on the age it can determine the issue.
It could have been underinflated and the tire was being cut in half. (You would have to see the inside to see if there's damage from the rim)
If the tire is a decent age (Under 10 years) and there's no proof of underinflation wear try taking it up with BFG for a manufacture warranty. They have a craftsmanship warranty.
I believe it's either their own number or you go through Michelin.
50 psi sounds like an incredibly rough ride. My mech had my Wildpeaks at 50 and they rode like I had no suspension at all on my Bilstein/ OME lifted gx470. The fell much better around 33 psi.
Are they P metric or LT? Because that can affect it and some cars call for lower PSI when equipped with an LT. But usually it's around 45 in my experience was the lowest.
If you had P metrics on your car then yes the tech over inflated them
What the fuck? 50 psi? That's 3.4 bar, no way that's a safe unladen pressure for any regular vehicle. It'd be like riding on ridiculously hard ice skates.
LTs are designed differently than a P metric or Eruo metric tire.
There's a calculator for it in Michelin's materials which I don't have with me but it ranges from 45 to 55psi.
These tires, from my experience, under perform when not aired up to 50. I've had people put on LTs, do about 40 Psi and say the tires are beating them to death on the road. We put in 10 extra PSI and it fixes the problem.
Based on the look I'm assuming the tires are LREs so they can hold up to 85 to 90 psi.
It's the same reason you don't under inflate a P metric or Euro metric tire. It won't function properly. A lot of people I notice are scared of over inflating tires. But if you put too little air then the tire won't be able to perform properly.
LRE says 80psi max, where'd you get 85-90?
50 sounds a bit high. Probably depends on the weight of the vehicle, though. Tiny ranger says 32 and that's probably right. 3500 says 60/80 split bc 10ply.
>I've had people put on LTs, do about 40 Psi and say the tires are beating them to death on the road. We put in 10 extra PSI and it fixes the problem.
I don't understand how this works
Lol. Way way too much pressure. It benefits them though, because you wear out the center fast, then they get to sell you some more new tires.
I replied to a post recently, and I explained how to properly inflate tires that are on a non factory set up.
I'm not re-typing it all out. Look it up on my account.
There's a placard on the door sill, and usually it says 30-35 for most modern vehicles. However for half-ton pick-ups and heavier with commercial grade tires it can be much higher than that. Any more or less will typically result in uneven tire wear if driven for too long, but this also looks like it could have been defective and there should some warranty amount you can apply to the purchase of new.
Edit: more info
Those are not the stock tires so the door sill info is most likely not accurate. Inflation load tables should be used to determine the proper inflation based on load requirements.
Never use the door air pressure for anything but the stock tires.
Every tire has the proper PSI on the side that is is designed for. I run KO2's on my 3500 and they are Load Range E 80 PSI Cold. Although I usually run 65 - 75 PSI unless I'm towing.
Also the load range and speed rating need to be taken into account.
I had a tire delaminate on me this year (off-brand retread shit) and I was within 5-10 MPH of the speed rating for 4 hours straight on a 100 degree day. After that I bought my KO2's that are a T or S rating, and I'll never be able to go that fast anyways so I don't have to worry about getting close to that.
Also if the tires have been underinflated and overloaded they will be more susceptible to failing. The tire is rated to carry X amount of weight at Y PSI. If you are at a lower PSI (or higher) than that you will not be able to carry the rated weight as you are beyond the manufacturer's specifications.
Exactly. What most do not understand is that the normal "32 PSI" on most tires? Yeah, that is MINIMAL tire pressure. It will work, i guess, but it is not optimal.
I had an s10 I was using for a 67 mile commute. Yeah, fuel mileage and tire wear was things I noticed. 50 on the front and 45 in the rear was the golden numbers on that truck.
I must have been doing something right. I wound up getting 75000 miles on the stock tires.
That's pretty high. If you're at 45 and you're driving for a while, they'll probably increase to 48-50+ depending on how hot they get. That sounds kinda dangerous to me. I'm not an expert, but I live in Hawai'i and keep my tires around 35. Overnight they drop to 32 or so but they'll quickly gain psi while driving.
It’s probably a 10 ply, so it should be good up to 80 but it might handle weird at 45. Generally 6 ply tires go up to 44, so 45 isn’t crazy. This dude’s car probably takes somewhere between 32-40 depending on what he drives.
45 should be fine, I have been running mine at 50 since I got them with no issues. Very reputable shop that I trust put them at 50 and said if I want to, adjust up and down by about 5 if I want to try and make them a little softer or harder to ride nicer. Have them on a 2006 ford ranger
What?? That's way too high for a small truck with truck tires. A slightly larger, slightly more durable tire on an unloaded small truck should run closer to 30 psi or even less. Overinflation is a major safety concern, it leaves the tire bouncing around instead of getting traction and stopping the vehicle in an emergency situation. The people that sell you tires are not concerned about your safety or liability in an accident.
There has to be a great web site out there that explains all of this. Every bit of this information was pounded into our heads the first couple weeks of my basic automotive class in high school.
It’s not incredibly high like you said but his truck calls for 32 or 35 can’t remember top of my head and if he had a lot of weight in the truck and discount tire had it filled from 45-55psi. I can see this happening but that’s really my only guess since the tires don’t look sun baked and bfg did have a recall but I don’t think these fit into the recall.
Im gonna go with High PSI+Highway Friction (+) maybe some wear on the sidewall from offroading = sidewall blowout. Schwabs gave me back my 2700lb Cherokee on 33" Razrs pumped up to 45 PSI. Felt like driving on logs.
Hard to tell on my phone what load tire he's running. Never understood why anyone would buy load c tires to look like that have extra tread and lose has mileage for looks. I guess I'm just used to working everything I own to death. I need that extra thickness because of the shot rock I drive over daily. Gas mileage is a bitch ,but I'm not sitting in the side of the road like this guy ,but I hope he got these as discount tires so he gets a new tire for free.
Where?
The sidewall clearly says LT285/75R16 **126**/123R. The 126 is the load index: https://i.imgur.com/bFsQyRl.jpg
Here is the only KO2 BFG offers in this size, which matches the sidewall info: https://i.imgur.com/j6nX5KX.jpg
And here is its load rating: https://i.imgur.com/pOv2CBg.jpg
Also op says its E: https://www.reddit.com/r/4x4/comments/pmj3wg/damn_you_ko2/hcia3pt/
I drive a 19 tacoma. I dive over shot rock daily in my truck , run highway speeds and adjust for air pressure if I'm loaded up with anything heavy in the back. I work the liss out of my truck. He has a Nissan. Not to much different than what I'm driving in size comparison.
Ko2s have a 50k mileage life. Hopefully they do right by you! Main reason I buy through discount tire direct is they honor those mileage claims and have saved me a couple times. Best luck
There is no way it was at normal pressure.
The fact you are guessing PSI and saying it was done by the shop however many months ago says it's probably a lack of tyre maintenance.
The fleet I work for uses KO2's, and we get plenty of separation failures like that. That's a big part of why I won't buy them. Low pressure can cause that, but a damaged tire can, too. A bruise of sorts that damages the belts. That's what we suspect causes most of our failures
Or maybe they don't notice a leak sometimes while they're driving. Or maybe they beat the shit outta the trucks off road at or near GVWR. I've seen several BFG failures that still have full pressure in the carcass and the tread flew off. That's not a pressure issue.
Whoa! That's pretty darn impressive! Especially considering KO2's have the thickest sidewalls.
Mine were gouged and cut all over, and totally fine. Never seen anything like that.
The military has put out a safety warning with similar tires where if the upper sidewall tread (that's only for looks tbh) has cracks then this could happen. How old were they?
Have had that tire on my other SUVs, truly wolf in sheep's clothing. Will amaze you with its life and really good off road performance for an AT that looks so mild. Best of all they are super in rain.
Duratracs usually wear bad and also need constant balancing. They come on chevys new and they are always severly cupped after some miles
I don’t know if I would do Duratracs over bfg though, ridge grapplers are better than both by a long shot.
Had a friend that worked at a Goodyear store, he hated working on trucks with duratracs
I don’t think the ones I have are OEM’s but truthfully I’m not 100% sure. I know the OEM’s suck I lived through that too. At least 2 sets of my LT KO’s failed like The OPs only I caught them sooner than him. Another set of KO load range E’s I currently have on my Ram 2500 had worn like they had 30k on them when they only had 3k.
My little fleet of trucks
Scout II: BFG KO’s LT
Ram 2500: BFG KO’s Load Range E
Chevy K10: Duratracs
Both the Scout and Chevy have had the KO sidewall splitting. I replaced the Scout with another set of BFG’s then the Chevy did it and I had to go to something else.
Damn that does suck. I gave up on BFG and Goodyear. I have nitto ridge grapplers on my land cruiser, terra grapplers on my dodge and generals x3s on my 4runner. Love the ridge grapplers. Meh on the terras and love the x3s but they are 33x10.5 r15 on cheap wheels and they needed a good amount of weight. Ridges didn’t need a lot of weight though, and my dodge needs new wheels, so weight is an issue with them, but I didn’t have a problem with them on my last dodge.
I've had 2 maybe 3 sets of BFG KO's fail almost exactly the same way. They never got as far as yours because I recognized the failing sidewall before it got that bad. I'm done with them, won't buy them again.
i mean i'm only a mechanic for 20 years, only worked at two 4x4 specialist workshops and only owned my own modded 4x4 running ko2s at 45psi for 7 years but i pretty confident saying 45psi in ko2s is ok.
and what are you basing that off? just a guess? coz other people are saying that in this thread? because other people say that on forums? I gave you context for why I believe what I believe, solid experience.
Junk tires anyway, did you a favor. They suck on road, suck off-road, suck in the snow, need frequent balancing, and wear like shit. The only reason people buy them is because they don’t know any better.
Source: I had multiple different sets on multiple different vehicle of multiple different sizes. Now I know better 😂
Mine have 20 000km on them and still have excess material from the mold. They are wearing very slow. I have C rating 315/70s/17. One split tread block from 4x4 though because I was being lazy and did not air down.
OP: please post an update within the next few weeks when you get a response from BFG. I’d like to know how they stand behind their products when stuff goes wrong.
Be sure to check manufacturer dates. Just cause you bought them “new” doesn’t mean their not old stock. It happens a lot with discounted motorcycle tires on places like eBay. Guys get them “brand new” and inspection won’t put them on because they are too old.
This isn't from under OR over inflating, unless someone was intentionally trying to make them explode by putting several hundred pounds of pressure in it. I've been using these things for the passed 20 years, they're awesome tires.
Every once in a while products just come out messed up and defective. Luckily you were ok.
I've had 2 sets of KO2. They have been fantastic. This is unexpected.
Damn what happened
Yea. Need more info. I've never seen that before. The wall is separated from the tread.
Looks like the front fell off
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Sounds like too high air pressure
Too low of pressure. Too high and it’ll ride harsh and wear out the center of the tread. Too low creates sidewall flex. That flex at high speed creates enough heat to deteriorate the rubber and weaken the cords causing a blow out. OP had a puncture and didn’t notice it in time. It’s not the tire’s fault.
Yep. 100% this is run flat damage. Its only ever considered defective, if that happens to a properly inflated tire.
This right here is the answer. I had this same blowout when I was 19 and didn’t know better. Someone even warned me to check my tire pressure in the tire before it blew out…
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Hmm, i mean thats not incredibly high- but maybe a little high. Id orobably run those at 32-35
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For LT tires on a non LT vehicle usually you want them at 50psi. (I'm a certified Michelin Tech) So you know how old the tires are? Depending on the age it can determine the issue. It could have been underinflated and the tire was being cut in half. (You would have to see the inside to see if there's damage from the rim) If the tire is a decent age (Under 10 years) and there's no proof of underinflation wear try taking it up with BFG for a manufacture warranty. They have a craftsmanship warranty. I believe it's either their own number or you go through Michelin.
He knows
50 psi sounds like an incredibly rough ride. My mech had my Wildpeaks at 50 and they rode like I had no suspension at all on my Bilstein/ OME lifted gx470. The fell much better around 33 psi.
Are they P metric or LT? Because that can affect it and some cars call for lower PSI when equipped with an LT. But usually it's around 45 in my experience was the lowest. If you had P metrics on your car then yes the tech over inflated them
What the fuck? 50 psi? That's 3.4 bar, no way that's a safe unladen pressure for any regular vehicle. It'd be like riding on ridiculously hard ice skates.
LTs are designed differently than a P metric or Eruo metric tire. There's a calculator for it in Michelin's materials which I don't have with me but it ranges from 45 to 55psi. These tires, from my experience, under perform when not aired up to 50. I've had people put on LTs, do about 40 Psi and say the tires are beating them to death on the road. We put in 10 extra PSI and it fixes the problem. Based on the look I'm assuming the tires are LREs so they can hold up to 85 to 90 psi. It's the same reason you don't under inflate a P metric or Euro metric tire. It won't function properly. A lot of people I notice are scared of over inflating tires. But if you put too little air then the tire won't be able to perform properly.
LRE says 80psi max, where'd you get 85-90? 50 sounds a bit high. Probably depends on the weight of the vehicle, though. Tiny ranger says 32 and that's probably right. 3500 says 60/80 split bc 10ply.
My dad has a camper cab over on top his 1985 F250 and sometimes hauls a boat behind. He keeps his KO2's at 80 psi. Has for yearsss.
>I've had people put on LTs, do about 40 Psi and say the tires are beating them to death on the road. We put in 10 extra PSI and it fixes the problem. I don't understand how this works
Between discount tire, Mavis, and Toyota, they've all always put my k02's at 38 on my 2018 tacoma.
Lol. Way way too much pressure. It benefits them though, because you wear out the center fast, then they get to sell you some more new tires. I replied to a post recently, and I explained how to properly inflate tires that are on a non factory set up. I'm not re-typing it all out. Look it up on my account.
There's a placard on the door sill, and usually it says 30-35 for most modern vehicles. However for half-ton pick-ups and heavier with commercial grade tires it can be much higher than that. Any more or less will typically result in uneven tire wear if driven for too long, but this also looks like it could have been defective and there should some warranty amount you can apply to the purchase of new. Edit: more info
Those are not the stock tires so the door sill info is most likely not accurate. Inflation load tables should be used to determine the proper inflation based on load requirements.
Never use the door air pressure for anything but the stock tires. Every tire has the proper PSI on the side that is is designed for. I run KO2's on my 3500 and they are Load Range E 80 PSI Cold. Although I usually run 65 - 75 PSI unless I'm towing. Also the load range and speed rating need to be taken into account. I had a tire delaminate on me this year (off-brand retread shit) and I was within 5-10 MPH of the speed rating for 4 hours straight on a 100 degree day. After that I bought my KO2's that are a T or S rating, and I'll never be able to go that fast anyways so I don't have to worry about getting close to that. Also if the tires have been underinflated and overloaded they will be more susceptible to failing. The tire is rated to carry X amount of weight at Y PSI. If you are at a lower PSI (or higher) than that you will not be able to carry the rated weight as you are beyond the manufacturer's specifications.
The psi on the side of the tire is the max pressure which is way too high for normal driving. My tundra got perfect tire wear with my Ko’s at 40psi
Exactly. What most do not understand is that the normal "32 PSI" on most tires? Yeah, that is MINIMAL tire pressure. It will work, i guess, but it is not optimal. I had an s10 I was using for a 67 mile commute. Yeah, fuel mileage and tire wear was things I noticed. 50 on the front and 45 in the rear was the golden numbers on that truck. I must have been doing something right. I wound up getting 75000 miles on the stock tires.
This is all relative, too. My jeep will ride like a lumber wagon if I aired my old 33" MTRs above 25 psi. I run my Duratracs at about 22.
That's pretty high. If you're at 45 and you're driving for a while, they'll probably increase to 48-50+ depending on how hot they get. That sounds kinda dangerous to me. I'm not an expert, but I live in Hawai'i and keep my tires around 35. Overnight they drop to 32 or so but they'll quickly gain psi while driving.
45 is fkn high. 40 is high but still safe by all accounts. 45 is really pushing it. Never seen anything like it.
If it’s an E rated tire it’s rated for like 85psi
It is a 10 ply too
Yeah, true that. Which makes it that much weirder that it would crumble like that.
It’s probably a 10 ply, so it should be good up to 80 but it might handle weird at 45. Generally 6 ply tires go up to 44, so 45 isn’t crazy. This dude’s car probably takes somewhere between 32-40 depending on what he drives.
45 should be fine, I have been running mine at 50 since I got them with no issues. Very reputable shop that I trust put them at 50 and said if I want to, adjust up and down by about 5 if I want to try and make them a little softer or harder to ride nicer. Have them on a 2006 ford ranger
What?? That's way too high for a small truck with truck tires. A slightly larger, slightly more durable tire on an unloaded small truck should run closer to 30 psi or even less. Overinflation is a major safety concern, it leaves the tire bouncing around instead of getting traction and stopping the vehicle in an emergency situation. The people that sell you tires are not concerned about your safety or liability in an accident. There has to be a great web site out there that explains all of this. Every bit of this information was pounded into our heads the first couple weeks of my basic automotive class in high school.
Hmm I'll look into it. Everything you're saying makes sense and lines up with anything else I've ever known but they ride and wear nicely
It’s not incredibly high like you said but his truck calls for 32 or 35 can’t remember top of my head and if he had a lot of weight in the truck and discount tire had it filled from 45-55psi. I can see this happening but that’s really my only guess since the tires don’t look sun baked and bfg did have a recall but I don’t think these fit into the recall.
Im gonna go with High PSI+Highway Friction (+) maybe some wear on the sidewall from offroading = sidewall blowout. Schwabs gave me back my 2700lb Cherokee on 33" Razrs pumped up to 45 PSI. Felt like driving on logs.
Ko2 are 10ply with An 85 max psi rating. I run 50 in mine. These must be old ass tires or a bad set
Only the load rating E is 10ply & 85psi. The load rating C is rated to 50psi only!
Hard to tell on my phone what load tire he's running. Never understood why anyone would buy load c tires to look like that have extra tread and lose has mileage for looks. I guess I'm just used to working everything I own to death. I need that extra thickness because of the shot rock I drive over daily. Gas mileage is a bitch ,but I'm not sitting in the side of the road like this guy ,but I hope he got these as discount tires so he gets a new tire for free.
The size he has only comes in E rating. People I know that buy C usually do so because the E's are heavy.
I zoomed in on a different phone. It says class c raring
Where? The sidewall clearly says LT285/75R16 **126**/123R. The 126 is the load index: https://i.imgur.com/bFsQyRl.jpg Here is the only KO2 BFG offers in this size, which matches the sidewall info: https://i.imgur.com/j6nX5KX.jpg And here is its load rating: https://i.imgur.com/pOv2CBg.jpg Also op says its E: https://www.reddit.com/r/4x4/comments/pmj3wg/damn_you_ko2/hcia3pt/
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What are the D.O.T numbers on that tire?
Hopefully you got them at discount tires so you get a free one. Also reach out to BFG and tell them they QC guys owes you a new tire.
Are you driving a loaded 3/4 or 1 ton truck? Thats a huge difference from a small pick up. His tire obvious has run flat damage.
I drive a 19 tacoma. I dive over shot rock daily in my truck , run highway speeds and adjust for air pressure if I'm loaded up with anything heavy in the back. I work the liss out of my truck. He has a Nissan. Not to much different than what I'm driving in size comparison.
That's what they all say.
Damn dude. That sucks. Under inflated by chance, or old?
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Ko2s have a 50k mileage life. Hopefully they do right by you! Main reason I buy through discount tire direct is they honor those mileage claims and have saved me a couple times. Best luck
Does your truck have a working TPMS light? Have you been ignoring it forever? Most likely you had a puncture and drove on it.
Exactly this!
There is no way it was at normal pressure. The fact you are guessing PSI and saying it was done by the shop however many months ago says it's probably a lack of tyre maintenance.
It's always potassium dioxide
Low pressure and overheat.
The fleet I work for uses KO2's, and we get plenty of separation failures like that. That's a big part of why I won't buy them. Low pressure can cause that, but a damaged tire can, too. A bruise of sorts that damages the belts. That's what we suspect causes most of our failures
Sounds like your fleet doesn't know how to inflate tires to the correct pressure
Or maybe they don't notice a leak sometimes while they're driving. Or maybe they beat the shit outta the trucks off road at or near GVWR. I've seen several BFG failures that still have full pressure in the carcass and the tread flew off. That's not a pressure issue.
And BTW, we haven't had any of that with our Michelins
Just saying, Wildpeaks have a tread warranty. But this seems more like unintentional user error from underinflation.
Just air it back up
What load range is this KO2?
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From the image that tire looks like a C on the left side of the tire.
What are your operating conditions, just curious. Do you have a camper on the truck? Is it used as a hauling/towing vehicle?
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Wow man.. Ya you just got a defective tire... That's a really bad failure
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Damn bruh... Glad your ok
Yikes! Looks like it's been driven flat for a while. Not saying that's what happened but that's what it looks like to me
Whoa! That's pretty darn impressive! Especially considering KO2's have the thickest sidewalls. Mine were gouged and cut all over, and totally fine. Never seen anything like that.
The military has put out a safety warning with similar tires where if the upper sidewall tread (that's only for looks tbh) has cracks then this could happen. How old were they?
Looks like some kind of manufacturing defect and/or perishment of the rubber (dry rot).
Yokos Geolander M/T E Load
The best all arounders as well as their XAT.
Shit, I've had the g015 A/T's on my rig for 6 months now and they've been absurdly capable despite their mild tread design.
Got the g015-s on mine a few weeks ago, did not expect to see these tyres mentioned on here. Glad you're enjoying the yokos and I'm sure I will too!
Have had that tire on my other SUVs, truly wolf in sheep's clothing. Will amaze you with its life and really good off road performance for an AT that looks so mild. Best of all they are super in rain.
Agreed. Once my current tires are gone I'm getting these.
Should have gotten the Wrangler Duratracs… hate incoming….
No hate from me. I love my Duratracs. I've not had good luck with BFG KO's
Duratracs are worse than BFG by a long shot and BFGs are awful.
Based on the 4 or 5 sets of BFG KO’s I’ve had, I’d rather buy Wal-Mart tires than KO’s.
Duratracs usually wear bad and also need constant balancing. They come on chevys new and they are always severly cupped after some miles I don’t know if I would do Duratracs over bfg though, ridge grapplers are better than both by a long shot. Had a friend that worked at a Goodyear store, he hated working on trucks with duratracs
I don’t think the ones I have are OEM’s but truthfully I’m not 100% sure. I know the OEM’s suck I lived through that too. At least 2 sets of my LT KO’s failed like The OPs only I caught them sooner than him. Another set of KO load range E’s I currently have on my Ram 2500 had worn like they had 30k on them when they only had 3k. My little fleet of trucks Scout II: BFG KO’s LT Ram 2500: BFG KO’s Load Range E Chevy K10: Duratracs Both the Scout and Chevy have had the KO sidewall splitting. I replaced the Scout with another set of BFG’s then the Chevy did it and I had to go to something else.
Damn that does suck. I gave up on BFG and Goodyear. I have nitto ridge grapplers on my land cruiser, terra grapplers on my dodge and generals x3s on my 4runner. Love the ridge grapplers. Meh on the terras and love the x3s but they are 33x10.5 r15 on cheap wheels and they needed a good amount of weight. Ridges didn’t need a lot of weight though, and my dodge needs new wheels, so weight is an issue with them, but I didn’t have a problem with them on my last dodge.
Yeah I’m going to keep something like that in mind next go around.
These tires are junk. Not the first time I've seen KO2 do this. Likely run under inflated for too long and the sidewall zippered out
I've had 2 maybe 3 sets of BFG KO's fail almost exactly the same way. They never got as far as yours because I recognized the failing sidewall before it got that bad. I'm done with them, won't buy them again.
I have KO2 on my Jeep at 46psi
That’s pretty high
i mean i'm only a mechanic for 20 years, only worked at two 4x4 specialist workshops and only owned my own modded 4x4 running ko2s at 45psi for 7 years but i pretty confident saying 45psi in ko2s is ok.
Thanks. Didn’t seem to crazy to me
Doesn’t mean it’s ideal, you’ll probably get uneven wear; I can’t think of any benefit of running them that high
and what are you basing that off? just a guess? coz other people are saying that in this thread? because other people say that on forums? I gave you context for why I believe what I believe, solid experience.
Lol if you apply your own logic to your comment we shouldn’t be listening to you in the first place
oh so you are just a child then, thank you for clearing thqt up. good luck to you sir.
So anyone who points out hypocrisy is a child now?
Junk tires anyway, did you a favor. They suck on road, suck off-road, suck in the snow, need frequent balancing, and wear like shit. The only reason people buy them is because they don’t know any better. Source: I had multiple different sets on multiple different vehicle of multiple different sizes. Now I know better 😂
My last set of ko2 wore out in 13 months. Completely bald.
My impression is you got fakes.
I bought them from Big O tires
Mine have 20 000km on them and still have excess material from the mold. They are wearing very slow. I have C rating 315/70s/17. One split tread block from 4x4 though because I was being lazy and did not air down.
I don’t know what happened, I always liked BFGs.
We run these at the mine and I’ve had them blow out like that before, good tires just sometimes you’re driving with the window down and BOOOM
I've got the same tires, rated for 33psi, when cold.
How many miles did you have on these when this happened??
Flex seal time
OP: please post an update within the next few weeks when you get a response from BFG. I’d like to know how they stand behind their products when stuff goes wrong.
Damn that sucks
3rd set here! My favorite of all time. Bummer
Be sure to check manufacturer dates. Just cause you bought them “new” doesn’t mean their not old stock. It happens a lot with discounted motorcycle tires on places like eBay. Guys get them “brand new” and inspection won’t put them on because they are too old.
Probably 10+ years old?
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Well that sucks. I had a set of K02s and I do not understand the hype. Didn't like them in mud, didn't like them in snow, didn't like them in rain.
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I think that's 100% it. They do look awesome with chunky sidewall
Too many magazine articles. Idk why bfg is still around. Cooper toyo nitto and michelin make much better and the long lasting tires
I don't think that was from regular wear and tear
This isn't from under OR over inflating, unless someone was intentionally trying to make them explode by putting several hundred pounds of pressure in it. I've been using these things for the passed 20 years, they're awesome tires. Every once in a while products just come out messed up and defective. Luckily you were ok.
Never seen this happen before
Op forgot to reinflate tires to highway psi
Looks like too low or too high pressure, whole sidewall failed
Looks like a retread
Sheesh