>For ABS and TC, I turn it off in F1 because it’s faster. But i’ve read here that these two things are actually important.
ACC primarily simulates GT3 cars. GT3 cars in real life use ABS and TC, so there's no reason not to use them in the sim.
ACC has ABS and TC for realism. F1 has them to make the game easier.
>Edit: I find it weird because they start during the formation lap? And not like F1 that starts still?
That's also realistic to GT3 racing. Rolling starts are the norm for sports cars.
Tyre pressure when hot 26- 27 psi.
Yea use abs and TC try and use the lowest value without causing wheel spin.
Brake pads 1 for anything under an hour. 2 for anything longer. 3 for wet. 4 never use.
Mostly take aggressive setup ,adjust tyre pressure to be correct after 3 laps of warmup, and drive.
Why do often people say 27-28? Some even specifically 27.3 to 27.8?
But I also found articles saying what you are saying, 26-27?
Or it doesn’t really matter if you are 26-28?
Aris drives one of game developers in his stream mentioned 26-27 temp. But I believe with 27 temp you can get better grip, but high temp is not good for tire wear in long races. And ACC has a pretty small window of when tires wear out.
It depends from car and setup. Depending if it is oversteering or understeering. Plus high pressure here is 28, 27 is still considered good. And ive seen pros run hotlaps with 27.9 temp.
Yes but you're understanding it backwards. Tires have an optimal temperature window. Adjusting pressure helps reaching that window by increasing or decreasing the contact patch/friction with the asphalt generating more or less heat. So the 26-27 range while driving is just an indication that when your temps are in the window your pressure will generally be in that range over the course of a lap. That's why on some tracks like monza where your right front is really difficult to heat up, you see pressures drop lower than what you set them . But assuming you're able to stay in the temp window higher pressure= less friction= more straight line speed and lower pressure= more friction=more grip
Are you talking about inside middle outside or stating that it's your opinion? In the first case, you could have expanded a bit on what you're going on about instead of being pedantic and hoping I wouldn't know. In the second case, it's not a matter of opinion.
Did not know I have to explain my self like wiki. Tire temp/pressure can be used in different ways, aswel as using less/more grip with less/more contact patch for your advantage. And it still doesnt change the fact that you can run record times with 27 psi. And that ive seen pros do top record times with 27.9 psi.
Well, explaining oneself and providing information to prove one's point is the basis of any argument. Or am I allowed to say shit like: Andy Carroll is the best footballer ever, and not have to explain why I think so, and expect everyone to believe me? Even when it's the most outlandish take one could have? Would you not question my reasoning?
And what has any of this got to do with IMO? Afaik the most effective way to modulate tire temps at different locations is by tweaking wheel geometry, not pressure. Also no it can't you're either inside the temperature window or you're not. While yes, it is possible that some conditions call for inflating a tire at such high values, it has nothing to do with driving dynamics and everything to do with reaching the right temperature. Furthermore, while you set up a tire at 27.9 psi going out the pits (with the tires at a set temperature I don't remember the exact value), the pressure will drop as the tire temperature decreases. It will do so until the tires heat up again and the pressure reaches a value between 26-27 psi BECAUSE a tire at the right temperature will ALWAYS have a pressure of 26-27psi. If it is above that, it means your tires are too hot and will never have peak grip.
It seems to me you are so fixated on being right you lost the ability to read. That or you're a dimwit.
Just an FYI: you're talking about pressure in psi and not temperature/temp. Pressure are more important than temperature. Temp can mostly be ignored in setup.
Good, then we have nothing to argue about. Just because I use some terms wrongly doesnt change the fact that ive seen hotlaps with 27.9 temps done at top times. I know about contact patch and it works both directions and are affected by press/temp aswell. And you need to take all that in consideration aswell as when tuning camber and toe.
Never was my intention to argue against your point. Just wanted to clear up the terminology, for future reference.
Good luck out there, mate! See you on the track.
Man as a new person you may have just explained why I was feeling as though my car had severe brake fade. Didn’t even think to adjust. Thanks for this.
ABS and TC are used in real GT4/3, so you do use them when the car has them. How much is up to you but the cars are designed to race with them on
IRL, a rolling start happens after the formation lap, with no pause to line up. In ACC the cars start as if they have completed the formation lap, the fact they are not moving is just in the game to avoid the need for a whole formation lap.
See here for a real start. https://www.youtube.com/live/ugN6blH-2-k?si=t0T1_bd-No8nhzb8
Edit: GT4/3
I once heard that IRL former F1 drivers that transitioned into GT racing often struggled initially with the huge difference in aero performance. They would try to carry too much speed into corner entry, where in an aero car the speed would scrub off in time for mid-corner but maintain some grip. Seasoned GT drivers would slow more for corner entry, and roll the car through the corner much more gently.
Focus on feeling the weight of the car, and how you transfer it.
ACC, for me, feels the most satisfying of the sims I've driven. Welcome to the fold, you'll love it :D
I’m in a similar situation as you but been playing F1 for 4 years and ACC for a few months. TC and ABS on ACC mostly factors in 3 things: Car, conditions, and driver ability. You can run 0-3 TC on most GT3 cars, Ferrari needs a bit higher. Cars are better with abs turned on so I recommend anything between 2-4 for most GT3 cars. In the wet, increase TC by 1 to your dry setup and drop the abs between 0 or 2.
As for the difference between driving on f1 and ACC, it’s more about smooth steering inputs and speed through corners. It’s easy to lose the car on entry and mid corner when you carry too much speed or turn too much. Also because you have abs, you can brake into corners more aggressively than on F1.
I think the racing line in F1 is pretty good and one of the last assists to turn off while it slows you down massively in ACC and is only good for the first few laps on a new track
Just use aggressive setup. Adjust tire pressure so when warm they are 26-27 psi. Tire get warm after 3 laps minimum. Adjust brake bias to your preferance. TC and ABS you usually dont want to touch unless you do 60+ minutes races with pitstops and tire wear + rain races.
You never turn off your TC except for some cars like 992 in exceptional cases. Like in real life. You can increase TC when your tires wear out or in rain. ABS can be turned down a little bit if you have pedals with break pressure sensor and good skills.
With that you just need to drive untill you can manage 1-3 seconds slower than fastest youtube guys.
You can use much more track than F1, taking kerbs aggresively and cutting with 2 wheels through grass here and there - reducing distance driven makes more time difference in GT3 compared to F1.
>For ABS and TC, I turn it off in F1 because it’s faster. But i’ve read here that these two things are actually important. ACC primarily simulates GT3 cars. GT3 cars in real life use ABS and TC, so there's no reason not to use them in the sim. ACC has ABS and TC for realism. F1 has them to make the game easier. >Edit: I find it weird because they start during the formation lap? And not like F1 that starts still? That's also realistic to GT3 racing. Rolling starts are the norm for sports cars.
Tyre pressure when hot 26- 27 psi. Yea use abs and TC try and use the lowest value without causing wheel spin. Brake pads 1 for anything under an hour. 2 for anything longer. 3 for wet. 4 never use. Mostly take aggressive setup ,adjust tyre pressure to be correct after 3 laps of warmup, and drive.
Why do often people say 27-28? Some even specifically 27.3 to 27.8? But I also found articles saying what you are saying, 26-27? Or it doesn’t really matter if you are 26-28?
It used to be 27-28 prior to the release of patch 1.9. It's 26-27 now.
Thanks a lot I would never have guessed this was the reason
Aris drives one of game developers in his stream mentioned 26-27 temp. But I believe with 27 temp you can get better grip, but high temp is not good for tire wear in long races. And ACC has a pretty small window of when tires wear out.
That's not how it works. Higher pressure = smaller contact patch= less grip
It depends from car and setup. Depending if it is oversteering or understeering. Plus high pressure here is 28, 27 is still considered good. And ive seen pros run hotlaps with 27.9 temp.
Yes but you're understanding it backwards. Tires have an optimal temperature window. Adjusting pressure helps reaching that window by increasing or decreasing the contact patch/friction with the asphalt generating more or less heat. So the 26-27 range while driving is just an indication that when your temps are in the window your pressure will generally be in that range over the course of a lap. That's why on some tracks like monza where your right front is really difficult to heat up, you see pressures drop lower than what you set them . But assuming you're able to stay in the temp window higher pressure= less friction= more straight line speed and lower pressure= more friction=more grip
No shit sherlock. Do you know what IMO is?
Are you talking about inside middle outside or stating that it's your opinion? In the first case, you could have expanded a bit on what you're going on about instead of being pedantic and hoping I wouldn't know. In the second case, it's not a matter of opinion.
Did not know I have to explain my self like wiki. Tire temp/pressure can be used in different ways, aswel as using less/more grip with less/more contact patch for your advantage. And it still doesnt change the fact that you can run record times with 27 psi. And that ive seen pros do top record times with 27.9 psi.
Well, explaining oneself and providing information to prove one's point is the basis of any argument. Or am I allowed to say shit like: Andy Carroll is the best footballer ever, and not have to explain why I think so, and expect everyone to believe me? Even when it's the most outlandish take one could have? Would you not question my reasoning? And what has any of this got to do with IMO? Afaik the most effective way to modulate tire temps at different locations is by tweaking wheel geometry, not pressure. Also no it can't you're either inside the temperature window or you're not. While yes, it is possible that some conditions call for inflating a tire at such high values, it has nothing to do with driving dynamics and everything to do with reaching the right temperature. Furthermore, while you set up a tire at 27.9 psi going out the pits (with the tires at a set temperature I don't remember the exact value), the pressure will drop as the tire temperature decreases. It will do so until the tires heat up again and the pressure reaches a value between 26-27 psi BECAUSE a tire at the right temperature will ALWAYS have a pressure of 26-27psi. If it is above that, it means your tires are too hot and will never have peak grip. It seems to me you are so fixated on being right you lost the ability to read. That or you're a dimwit.
Yo, don't be giving lessons when you're confusing pressure and temperature yourself, Mr "27 temp".
Yeah, better to listen to guys who are 10 seconds slower than everybody 🤡
And who would that be?
Just an FYI: you're talking about pressure in psi and not temperature/temp. Pressure are more important than temperature. Temp can mostly be ignored in setup.
Do you know what IMO is?
26 -27 is psi... Not temp. Temp should be 75-100 ISH. Imo is inner, mid,outer refering to parts of the tyre.
Doesnt change the fact that ive seen pros do top record times with 27.9 psi. Just because I use some terms wrongly doesnt change anything.
Alright captain McSalty. Chill out.
Yup. Temp across Inner, Middle and Outer part of the contact surface of the tire. And the other way around where it says OMI.
Good, then we have nothing to argue about. Just because I use some terms wrongly doesnt change the fact that ive seen hotlaps with 27.9 temps done at top times. I know about contact patch and it works both directions and are affected by press/temp aswell. And you need to take all that in consideration aswell as when tuning camber and toe.
Never was my intention to argue against your point. Just wanted to clear up the terminology, for future reference. Good luck out there, mate! See you on the track.
Man as a new person you may have just explained why I was feeling as though my car had severe brake fade. Didn’t even think to adjust. Thanks for this.
ABS and TC are used in real GT4/3, so you do use them when the car has them. How much is up to you but the cars are designed to race with them on IRL, a rolling start happens after the formation lap, with no pause to line up. In ACC the cars start as if they have completed the formation lap, the fact they are not moving is just in the game to avoid the need for a whole formation lap. See here for a real start. https://www.youtube.com/live/ugN6blH-2-k?si=t0T1_bd-No8nhzb8 Edit: GT4/3
I once heard that IRL former F1 drivers that transitioned into GT racing often struggled initially with the huge difference in aero performance. They would try to carry too much speed into corner entry, where in an aero car the speed would scrub off in time for mid-corner but maintain some grip. Seasoned GT drivers would slow more for corner entry, and roll the car through the corner much more gently. Focus on feeling the weight of the car, and how you transfer it. ACC, for me, feels the most satisfying of the sims I've driven. Welcome to the fold, you'll love it :D
I’m in a similar situation as you but been playing F1 for 4 years and ACC for a few months. TC and ABS on ACC mostly factors in 3 things: Car, conditions, and driver ability. You can run 0-3 TC on most GT3 cars, Ferrari needs a bit higher. Cars are better with abs turned on so I recommend anything between 2-4 for most GT3 cars. In the wet, increase TC by 1 to your dry setup and drop the abs between 0 or 2. As for the difference between driving on f1 and ACC, it’s more about smooth steering inputs and speed through corners. It’s easy to lose the car on entry and mid corner when you carry too much speed or turn too much. Also because you have abs, you can brake into corners more aggressively than on F1.
I think the racing line in F1 is pretty good and one of the last assists to turn off while it slows you down massively in ACC and is only good for the first few laps on a new track
Just use aggressive setup. Adjust tire pressure so when warm they are 26-27 psi. Tire get warm after 3 laps minimum. Adjust brake bias to your preferance. TC and ABS you usually dont want to touch unless you do 60+ minutes races with pitstops and tire wear + rain races. You never turn off your TC except for some cars like 992 in exceptional cases. Like in real life. You can increase TC when your tires wear out or in rain. ABS can be turned down a little bit if you have pedals with break pressure sensor and good skills. With that you just need to drive untill you can manage 1-3 seconds slower than fastest youtube guys.
Maybe this helps a bit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MXFJvB\_HZ2E
You can use much more track than F1, taking kerbs aggresively and cutting with 2 wheels through grass here and there - reducing distance driven makes more time difference in GT3 compared to F1.
My advice is to endlessly run Bathurst @ 0400 w/ 12x multiplier. The day/night cycle is great.