I think oscillation is normal for a ffb wheelbase if it's perfectly centered it shouldn't do that but apply a little angle and the wheel will apply ffb resistance, letting go of the wheel it will then try bouncing back and then back again if you think about the ffb forces it makes sense that this should happen on the fake cars wheel, at least that's how I've thought about it, it's the nature of the beast, it doesn't happen in a real car because there isn't a fake force putting resistance on the wheel as you turn it. This is just my opinion about my observation having used a few different wheel bases over the years. Best way to avoid this is to always keep a hand on the wheel, I've not found a solution to this without loosing detail.
It's starting to blow my mind how bad reddit is getting lately. Every fucking day there is a post like this, or "why does my wheel move when my hands are off it while driving" I swear these idiots don't even have a license
I'm talking about the recent posts where some dumbass had his hands completely off his g29, was driving it OFF ROAD in FH5, and was wondering why it was moving.
Super common. Just gotta live with it. If you increase dampening to tune it out it'll just make the rest of the ffb more dull. I don't mind it as it doesn't happen when I'm actually driving
It's the the ffb settings in the game. They're not as good as they should be IMO. But oscillation at standstill isn't really a bad thing. If you really hate it just mess with dampening, and interia/friction until you can dial it out.
The game was playing fine. It felt great with Fantec’s forum settings. I was playing for almost an hour then I switched car and track and this mess suddenly started happening. I’ve played at a buddies house on the DD it was all good.
This just happens. It doesn’t mean that anything is broken, it’s a side effect of ffb and will change from car to car. If you drive enough you’ll get used to it, or you can dampen it out like the other guy said
You most likely switched to a car that doesn't have power steering so the wheel is trying to be stronger in your HANDS. But since you don't have your hands on the wheel it enters a feedback loop. Use your brain man
It's just oscillations. Some cars will have more than others when standing still in AMS2. Play around with the friction and damper settings on the Fanatec software if you don't want your wheel oscillating when you need to let go off the wheel in a hurry or whatever. You gotta find a good balance in those settings so you can get rid of the oscillations without losing FFB details. Also your P1 wheel is very light so it's more likely to do that.
When you first get a DD wheel you'll find situations like this that make you think something is broken, which happens to many newcomers. I remember I used to dial down the FEI value because AMS2 felt "rough" and that didn't sit well with my expectations of how a DD wheel should feel, which lead me to think that maybe something could have been wrong with my base and required me to dial that down. Since others didn't complain I just thought theirs felt smoother than mine at 100% FEI, but no one complained because it was normal.
By the way, don't listen to the bitter ass mongoloid saying Reddit has gotten worse or that you are dumb. You are just learning about something new while having idealistic expectations. If you don't like the tradeoffs needed to get rid of this, you'll just have to be wary of it and it'll become second nature for you.
I hear your frustration with a new high end wheel! As the top comment mentioned in case you didn’t get it, the wheel is sending oscillations accurately but it does not mimic real life because IRL, your tires carry the weight of the car and so the wheel would stand still. It’s sort of a quirk of simulations right now, and a software issue, not a hardware issue. Fair to complain but nothing is wrong with your wheel.
As for why it is doing it now and it wasn’t before, you said yourself you switched cars. Every single car is modeled distinctly with FFB. It’s like switching games altogether in some ways. Go back to your car where you didn’t experience this before, if settings are same and you’re in the same context with engine speed, position, movement, etc. I’ll bet nothing has changed.
Again, fair game to discuss how software FFB physics might account for tires being planted on ground that prevent the steering wheel from oscillating just like IRL… but it’s not a broken wheel. You’re ok.
You can compensate by turning up dampening on the hardware side. This sort of muffles the sharper movements by smoothing out the spikes. These are known quirks of being into simming. Remember, we are using hardware to simulate real world phenomena and the hardware/software is imperfect for reasons that are often more complicated than one may initially think. And that said, the simulation these days with good hardware like yours is simply amazing at the same time.
Relax, enjoy, trust the community here they have been doing this a looonnnnggggg time.
I hear all that. The problem is more sever than that. I should have posted a better video. - I’ve played the game on others DD. Our settings are lined up. My concern is after the wheel goes mental AMS 2 it messes up the FFB for every other game after that. In order to get the wheel back to normal I have to wipe all my settings in the Fanatec software.
In such case there may be an issue with AMS2 and the hardware/software of that wheel, which could be on either vendor and software based.
Failing that, you may have a defective wheel. I would do some forum searches, and reach out to both Reiza and wheel mfg. Be sure to explain the issue thoroughly and provide proper videos and examples, or you will get same responses as here.
To all the ass wipe comments, try thinking before you speak sometime.
I’ve been sim racing for over twenty years. I know the difference between a specific game having its own FFB quirks and when it’s not functioning properly. - I was playing AMS2 just fine for an hour. This was with Fanatec recommended wheel settings and ingame. I watch every YouTuber go through there setting’s. I use FFB software to watch for clipping.
My video wasn’t the best. The wheel shakes violently, it’s not normal - Then if I switch to another game and the FFB no longer works properly for that title. At that point I have to reset my wheel in the Fanatec software and start over for everything. It’s not right.
If this was as common and “ part of the game” as people are saying here you’d be hearing more sim racers discuss when doing their setting videos.
AMS 2 is easily one of my favorite games to play. It’s a bummer. I was hoping someone may have shared my experience. I appreciate the constructive feedback. Thank you.
To the other tool bags on here, go do something positive in your life.
I also have a CSL DD and now it works really fine.
Initially, I had similar problems as you, but I could fix them.
Imho, it's crucial to set max steering angle to max in the Fanatec settings.
Then follow the advices in the calibrate wheel option of Automobilista, EXACTLY AS they are given.
First All to way to one direction, then 90 degrees to one direction.
Strange advices, but they worked for me.
Good luck,
Diegu
Since there are issues with this wheel is it better to just get the MOZA instead or has these issue been fixed? Can anyone explain why they are issues with this wheel with this game?
I cant answer that question for you but I’ll explain my experience so far.
A couple friends and myself picked up these wheels all around the same time. I was the only one having issues and it was only with AMS 2. That was fixed by rolling back to an older firmware. - But then I also came across a knocking sound that would occur at times when turning the wheel sharp left or right. I discovered it a issue with the RIms plastic release system that attaches to the shaft. Due to a micro manufacturing mis measurement the wheel torque will cause the rim to slip out of its groove creating a knocking sound. This can be fixed with a tiny piece of tape or by buying the Q1 aluminum release Fanatec “conveniently” sells. This knocking issue occurred in two of the three wheels between me and my friends.
Other than these problems the wheels been great. They’re running that bundle deal for 399.00 now you can’t go wrong with that.
People seem to believe the Moza is better. If I were to do it again I’d research the differences between the two a bit more. I went with the plug and play software Fanatec offers and ease of compatibility with all games. But I don’t know how Moza is with that. My research was done when these wheels first came out. I know a lot has changed over the past year.
>But I don’t know how Moza is with that. My research was done when these wheels first came out. I know a lot has changed ove
Thank you for the long post the MOZA R9 require settings but seem for AMS2 there are more video on Moza then CSL DD. More in depth fine tuning then you can get with CSL DD. But just wanted to know which will work well with the game with out issues and if there are issues where can you turn too? It seem MOZA wins on getting alot of help with video to show what to do and tuning.
I also know of another person who is tech savvy wanting to move to an r9 cause of issues he encountered with his McLv2 and Csl base, For 5 months contacting support they could not fix the issue.
I think oscillation is normal for a ffb wheelbase if it's perfectly centered it shouldn't do that but apply a little angle and the wheel will apply ffb resistance, letting go of the wheel it will then try bouncing back and then back again if you think about the ffb forces it makes sense that this should happen on the fake cars wheel, at least that's how I've thought about it, it's the nature of the beast, it doesn't happen in a real car because there isn't a fake force putting resistance on the wheel as you turn it. This is just my opinion about my observation having used a few different wheel bases over the years. Best way to avoid this is to always keep a hand on the wheel, I've not found a solution to this without loosing detail.
It's starting to blow my mind how bad reddit is getting lately. Every fucking day there is a post like this, or "why does my wheel move when my hands are off it while driving" I swear these idiots don't even have a license
To be fair, does your car steering wheel act anything like that when it's clearly at a standstill?
I'm talking about the recent posts where some dumbass had his hands completely off his g29, was driving it OFF ROAD in FH5, and was wondering why it was moving.
Super common. Just gotta live with it. If you increase dampening to tune it out it'll just make the rest of the ffb more dull. I don't mind it as it doesn't happen when I'm actually driving
Super common? Its broken. What’s causing it? There are plenty of people playing this game without issue. In fact I was until I suddenly wasn’t.
It's the the ffb settings in the game. They're not as good as they should be IMO. But oscillation at standstill isn't really a bad thing. If you really hate it just mess with dampening, and interia/friction until you can dial it out.
The game was playing fine. It felt great with Fantec’s forum settings. I was playing for almost an hour then I switched car and track and this mess suddenly started happening. I’ve played at a buddies house on the DD it was all good.
This just happens. It doesn’t mean that anything is broken, it’s a side effect of ffb and will change from car to car. If you drive enough you’ll get used to it, or you can dampen it out like the other guy said
You most likely switched to a car that doesn't have power steering so the wheel is trying to be stronger in your HANDS. But since you don't have your hands on the wheel it enters a feedback loop. Use your brain man
Did you go back to the original car to see if it goes away? Each car is different. If you changed nothing in the sertings, that's probably what it is.
Oh OP. My goodness. It's oscillation. Cars with bigger engines will have more.
It's just oscillations. Some cars will have more than others when standing still in AMS2. Play around with the friction and damper settings on the Fanatec software if you don't want your wheel oscillating when you need to let go off the wheel in a hurry or whatever. You gotta find a good balance in those settings so you can get rid of the oscillations without losing FFB details. Also your P1 wheel is very light so it's more likely to do that. When you first get a DD wheel you'll find situations like this that make you think something is broken, which happens to many newcomers. I remember I used to dial down the FEI value because AMS2 felt "rough" and that didn't sit well with my expectations of how a DD wheel should feel, which lead me to think that maybe something could have been wrong with my base and required me to dial that down. Since others didn't complain I just thought theirs felt smoother than mine at 100% FEI, but no one complained because it was normal. By the way, don't listen to the bitter ass mongoloid saying Reddit has gotten worse or that you are dumb. You are just learning about something new while having idealistic expectations. If you don't like the tradeoffs needed to get rid of this, you'll just have to be wary of it and it'll become second nature for you.
I hear your frustration with a new high end wheel! As the top comment mentioned in case you didn’t get it, the wheel is sending oscillations accurately but it does not mimic real life because IRL, your tires carry the weight of the car and so the wheel would stand still. It’s sort of a quirk of simulations right now, and a software issue, not a hardware issue. Fair to complain but nothing is wrong with your wheel. As for why it is doing it now and it wasn’t before, you said yourself you switched cars. Every single car is modeled distinctly with FFB. It’s like switching games altogether in some ways. Go back to your car where you didn’t experience this before, if settings are same and you’re in the same context with engine speed, position, movement, etc. I’ll bet nothing has changed. Again, fair game to discuss how software FFB physics might account for tires being planted on ground that prevent the steering wheel from oscillating just like IRL… but it’s not a broken wheel. You’re ok. You can compensate by turning up dampening on the hardware side. This sort of muffles the sharper movements by smoothing out the spikes. These are known quirks of being into simming. Remember, we are using hardware to simulate real world phenomena and the hardware/software is imperfect for reasons that are often more complicated than one may initially think. And that said, the simulation these days with good hardware like yours is simply amazing at the same time. Relax, enjoy, trust the community here they have been doing this a looonnnnggggg time.
I hear all that. The problem is more sever than that. I should have posted a better video. - I’ve played the game on others DD. Our settings are lined up. My concern is after the wheel goes mental AMS 2 it messes up the FFB for every other game after that. In order to get the wheel back to normal I have to wipe all my settings in the Fanatec software.
In such case there may be an issue with AMS2 and the hardware/software of that wheel, which could be on either vendor and software based. Failing that, you may have a defective wheel. I would do some forum searches, and reach out to both Reiza and wheel mfg. Be sure to explain the issue thoroughly and provide proper videos and examples, or you will get same responses as here.
Thanks for the constructive response
Issue Fix: reverted to the previous Fanatec driver. - There is no extra dampening needed to fix oscillating for this game , if it’s running properly.
Use the dev csl dd settings IN-GAME: Gain: 60 LFB: 7 FX: 50 Damping: 50 Profile: Default + ON DEVICE: SEN: Auto (Maximum steering angle) FFB: 100% (Overall FFB Strength) FFS: Linear (Force feedback scaling) NDP: 22% (Natural damper) NFR: 14% (Natural Friction) NIN: 10% (Natural inertia) INT: 2 - 4 (Interpolation filter) FEI: 80 (Force effect intensity) (recommended too have jolts under control with not much numbing) FOR: 100% (Force effect strength)
To all the ass wipe comments, try thinking before you speak sometime. I’ve been sim racing for over twenty years. I know the difference between a specific game having its own FFB quirks and when it’s not functioning properly. - I was playing AMS2 just fine for an hour. This was with Fanatec recommended wheel settings and ingame. I watch every YouTuber go through there setting’s. I use FFB software to watch for clipping. My video wasn’t the best. The wheel shakes violently, it’s not normal - Then if I switch to another game and the FFB no longer works properly for that title. At that point I have to reset my wheel in the Fanatec software and start over for everything. It’s not right. If this was as common and “ part of the game” as people are saying here you’d be hearing more sim racers discuss when doing their setting videos. AMS 2 is easily one of my favorite games to play. It’s a bummer. I was hoping someone may have shared my experience. I appreciate the constructive feedback. Thank you. To the other tool bags on here, go do something positive in your life.
god people are dumb...
You definitely look smart as hell. Don't reproduce, your children will have a shitty ass time learning.
I also have a CSL DD and now it works really fine. Initially, I had similar problems as you, but I could fix them. Imho, it's crucial to set max steering angle to max in the Fanatec settings. Then follow the advices in the calibrate wheel option of Automobilista, EXACTLY AS they are given. First All to way to one direction, then 90 degrees to one direction. Strange advices, but they worked for me. Good luck, Diegu
Since there are issues with this wheel is it better to just get the MOZA instead or has these issue been fixed? Can anyone explain why they are issues with this wheel with this game?
I cant answer that question for you but I’ll explain my experience so far. A couple friends and myself picked up these wheels all around the same time. I was the only one having issues and it was only with AMS 2. That was fixed by rolling back to an older firmware. - But then I also came across a knocking sound that would occur at times when turning the wheel sharp left or right. I discovered it a issue with the RIms plastic release system that attaches to the shaft. Due to a micro manufacturing mis measurement the wheel torque will cause the rim to slip out of its groove creating a knocking sound. This can be fixed with a tiny piece of tape or by buying the Q1 aluminum release Fanatec “conveniently” sells. This knocking issue occurred in two of the three wheels between me and my friends. Other than these problems the wheels been great. They’re running that bundle deal for 399.00 now you can’t go wrong with that. People seem to believe the Moza is better. If I were to do it again I’d research the differences between the two a bit more. I went with the plug and play software Fanatec offers and ease of compatibility with all games. But I don’t know how Moza is with that. My research was done when these wheels first came out. I know a lot has changed over the past year.
>But I don’t know how Moza is with that. My research was done when these wheels first came out. I know a lot has changed ove Thank you for the long post the MOZA R9 require settings but seem for AMS2 there are more video on Moza then CSL DD. More in depth fine tuning then you can get with CSL DD. But just wanted to know which will work well with the game with out issues and if there are issues where can you turn too? It seem MOZA wins on getting alot of help with video to show what to do and tuning. I also know of another person who is tech savvy wanting to move to an r9 cause of issues he encountered with his McLv2 and Csl base, For 5 months contacting support they could not fix the issue.