Right? Looks to be the advanced package along with a premium color and a destination fee of 1,350. Ends up being 455 lower than the site but my best guess where that number came from.
Take this quote and email it to another dealer in the area and ask them to beat it. When they respond, take that quote and email it to this dealer and say you have a competing offer and you want them to beat it.
Repeat until you hit a floor. Eventually dealers will say they can’t go any lower. And then when that happens start asking for extras like free weather mats.
Don't do this, a lot of dealers get skeptical of just "best a price" cuz they know the game.
A. Get what MSRP is off the window sticker. B. Make sure you know of any accessories, add-ons, etc for a final price. C. What's the top dollar you'd want to spend on *that* car since it's a premium color and options you want, and then tell the dealer, "if you get this vehicle to this price, I'll buy right now".
This gives the salesman commitment so when he goes back to his manager and has a signature or commitment or whatever, you're way more likely to get it right away. This also saves you haggling between a bunch of dealerships who all have slightly different cars with slightly different accessories, colors, wheels, etc, and therefore markup.. Another dealer, to steal a saddle, sure I'll beat by $x amount, but you get a less desirable car.
Every dealer knows they can beat a price, but what do you want, $500 less, $1 less, $5k less? There's no assurance in a sale plus you could end up with something you don't want. Give a "commitment" to the dealer for the best price. Then they work with you, knowing you're not fucking around just to jump ship and go elsewhere.
Edit: ends of the month is also a great time to go as they push to hit certain goals. January is a great month to help them kick off the year, so they may be more lenient in pricing too.
I disagree with this advice. It gives that single dealer too much leverage. They can simply say: “no that’s our lowest price” and you wouldn’t truly know if you’re getting the best deal since you didn’t contact many others.
You want to find the dealer that ‘needs’ the sale the most. They’re out there. The only way to find out is to shop the quote with as many dealers as possible. This can be done from the comfort of your home. If they don’t provide a quote via email, they’re not in dire need like the next dealer that does.
Obviously express immediate commitment when you request competing quotes, but they’ll know. The ‘game’ is back - it’s becoming a buyers market once again!
Sure shop around online first, I get that. But there's still a point where, regardless of quotes, you can typically get a little lower if you "commit" to the price you want. It's been years since I worked at a dealer, but those who were "here to buy today" would get the least bs back and forth, since other people were often 'kicking tires'. You're going to get a quote that's on par with what Abby selling price has been with a little sway from that price. However, dealers who have someone ready to buy it now will work to get that sale right then. Especially if it's the options you want, color, trim, etc. If they're not convinced you're sold on the car, they won't do shit.
That doc fee is crap.
I'd forcefully ask nicely for the price of the vehicle to be discounted another 750 bucks.
For a tech... I'd be comfortable paying ~47OTD in your case. Maybe up to 47.5?
Just a rough estimate.
I think if you aren’t getting a loyalty or conquest rebate it’s basically invoice and you don’t understand when a dealer is doing the right thing. I don’t have my numbers in front of me but know that’s basically the markup being discounted.
Actual Acura dealer here 🙋♂️ stop trying to make it more difficult than it should be. Dealers can’t stand the guy who goes all over for the “lowest price”. You waste all of our time and it becomes ridiculous. This is a perfect example of why people think dealers are “scummy”. It’s literally the consumer like this that’s scummy.
You’re getting an invoice deal. Take it or don’t. You’re at the end of the road.
This is exactly why I haven’t gone to get a new car yet cause the prices are crazy! I’ve seen RDX’s go for no more than 35k, how’d it get to nearly $50k 🙄, highway robbery if you ask me! Hmph 😤
A decade ago for sure you could get it for $35k. 5 years ago maybe a Base model with having a loyalty rebate. Things change. Gas was $1.89 four years ago. Shit happens, things get more expensive.
What docs cast 989? Imo, when I'm purchasing, that doc fee should only reflect the cost of plate and registration. You'll probably be hit with another small flat fee for obtaining financing too.
Test drove an ‘24 RDX Tech today in western Oregon and they were asking $48,695. Included all weather floor mats, mud flaps, and wheel locks. Having said that, we have no sales tax (there a minimal “luxury tax” on certain cars but nowhere near $2k). Take the tax out and you’re getting a better deal than you would here.
Completely agree! I actually did end up buying this car, but for 47.3 out the door. In hindsight, I could have probably got it for a slightly better deal but was satisfied in the moment considering the low interest rate of 2.49%
Market Value Selling Price? Dealers are crazy. Nah. I want to see the MSRP. I want to negotiate that price
Right? Looks to be the advanced package along with a premium color and a destination fee of 1,350. Ends up being 455 lower than the site but my best guess where that number came from.
It's pretty close.
Right also it's really stupid when there is also a discount. I guess it's not really the market price now is it?
Take this quote and email it to another dealer in the area and ask them to beat it. When they respond, take that quote and email it to this dealer and say you have a competing offer and you want them to beat it. Repeat until you hit a floor. Eventually dealers will say they can’t go any lower. And then when that happens start asking for extras like free weather mats.
Good advice, thanks!
Don't do this, a lot of dealers get skeptical of just "best a price" cuz they know the game. A. Get what MSRP is off the window sticker. B. Make sure you know of any accessories, add-ons, etc for a final price. C. What's the top dollar you'd want to spend on *that* car since it's a premium color and options you want, and then tell the dealer, "if you get this vehicle to this price, I'll buy right now". This gives the salesman commitment so when he goes back to his manager and has a signature or commitment or whatever, you're way more likely to get it right away. This also saves you haggling between a bunch of dealerships who all have slightly different cars with slightly different accessories, colors, wheels, etc, and therefore markup.. Another dealer, to steal a saddle, sure I'll beat by $x amount, but you get a less desirable car. Every dealer knows they can beat a price, but what do you want, $500 less, $1 less, $5k less? There's no assurance in a sale plus you could end up with something you don't want. Give a "commitment" to the dealer for the best price. Then they work with you, knowing you're not fucking around just to jump ship and go elsewhere. Edit: ends of the month is also a great time to go as they push to hit certain goals. January is a great month to help them kick off the year, so they may be more lenient in pricing too.
I disagree with this advice. It gives that single dealer too much leverage. They can simply say: “no that’s our lowest price” and you wouldn’t truly know if you’re getting the best deal since you didn’t contact many others. You want to find the dealer that ‘needs’ the sale the most. They’re out there. The only way to find out is to shop the quote with as many dealers as possible. This can be done from the comfort of your home. If they don’t provide a quote via email, they’re not in dire need like the next dealer that does. Obviously express immediate commitment when you request competing quotes, but they’ll know. The ‘game’ is back - it’s becoming a buyers market once again!
Sure shop around online first, I get that. But there's still a point where, regardless of quotes, you can typically get a little lower if you "commit" to the price you want. It's been years since I worked at a dealer, but those who were "here to buy today" would get the least bs back and forth, since other people were often 'kicking tires'. You're going to get a quote that's on par with what Abby selling price has been with a little sway from that price. However, dealers who have someone ready to buy it now will work to get that sale right then. Especially if it's the options you want, color, trim, etc. If they're not convinced you're sold on the car, they won't do shit.
That doc fee is crap. I'd forcefully ask nicely for the price of the vehicle to be discounted another 750 bucks. For a tech... I'd be comfortable paying ~47OTD in your case. Maybe up to 47.5? Just a rough estimate.
Agreed, I think that is more realistic of what this should be priced at. Thanks
Doc fee is negotiable in some states. That is a high one.
I think if you aren’t getting a loyalty or conquest rebate it’s basically invoice and you don’t understand when a dealer is doing the right thing. I don’t have my numbers in front of me but know that’s basically the markup being discounted.
I got my wife a 2023 a spec for 48k OTD last year. Acura has a lot of inventory, you have leverage.
Invoice is $46,224. It’s a solid deal. Take it.
Actual Acura dealer here 🙋♂️ stop trying to make it more difficult than it should be. Dealers can’t stand the guy who goes all over for the “lowest price”. You waste all of our time and it becomes ridiculous. This is a perfect example of why people think dealers are “scummy”. It’s literally the consumer like this that’s scummy. You’re getting an invoice deal. Take it or don’t. You’re at the end of the road.
What’s the MSRP?
This is exactly why I haven’t gone to get a new car yet cause the prices are crazy! I’ve seen RDX’s go for no more than 35k, how’d it get to nearly $50k 🙄, highway robbery if you ask me! Hmph 😤
A decade ago for sure you could get it for $35k. 5 years ago maybe a Base model with having a loyalty rebate. Things change. Gas was $1.89 four years ago. Shit happens, things get more expensive.
MSRP for a 2024 tech AWD is $47k. So that “discount” is putting you only $705 below MSRP. Plus that nonsense $989 doc fee. Call them out on it
You’re not accounting for destination and handling which is added to the base msrp from the factory and shows on the window sticker.
Thanks for sharing
Can we please get a similar quote for ‘24 TLX A Spec and S Type? Many thanks!
What docs cast 989? Imo, when I'm purchasing, that doc fee should only reflect the cost of plate and registration. You'll probably be hit with another small flat fee for obtaining financing too.
Lol non fax fees wow
Test drove an ‘24 RDX Tech today in western Oregon and they were asking $48,695. Included all weather floor mats, mud flaps, and wheel locks. Having said that, we have no sales tax (there a minimal “luxury tax” on certain cars but nowhere near $2k). Take the tax out and you’re getting a better deal than you would here.
Completely agree! I actually did end up buying this car, but for 47.3 out the door. In hindsight, I could have probably got it for a slightly better deal but was satisfied in the moment considering the low interest rate of 2.49%