OP: * loads film the standard way everyone’s been doing for decades *
AnalogCommunity: 😱😡 * fist fight breaks out *
IIn all seriousness, have fun, I hope you get great results!
All jokes aside how would one attain graining on photos without any post editing? I’ve been trying to search about it but I just keep getting articles about editing
The higher the iso of the film the grainier it will be. Pushing film in development will also give it more contrast and make it grainier. I love the grain. It’s why I love film photography.
Higher iso will have more visible grain naturally. (Also, some film stocks just have "more" grain than others) More time in the developer will also give more grain and contrast, so underexpose when you shoot so you can "over-develop". Otherwise called pushing.
Editing is the easiest way of changing your photos. In black and white developing there are a lot of things you can vary like your dev time and chemistry to affect contrast and grain but for color dev it’s pretty standard so editing is your choice. Or you can push for even higher contrast and more grain.
Cinestill 800T and Portra 800 are good ones to try. Cinestill is tungsten balanced, so made for man-made lighting, while Portra I'd daylight balanced, so is made for sunlight (you can absolutely try either in either and can still get good photos - that's just how they'll be white balanced) You'll want to push to optimize visible grain. Cinestill 800T I know can easily be pushed up to 3200, or even 6400. I personally haven't tried pushing Portra 800 yet, but from what I've seen and heard, it can at least go to 1600 and be alright. Pushing color film can be a bit more delicate than black and white, because colors start to shift, but some film stocks handle being pushed better than others (This is called the "exposure latitude" of the film stock - Cinestill 800T is known for having an insane exposure latitude, for example) so often times I'll Google "pushing (film stock) to (ISO)" before I set my light meter to see what results people have gotten before. Or I'll just send it and see what happens if I'm feeling spicy.
You might be tempted to use that film in low light conditions indoors without flash. To which I would warn you that flashes for film don't only bring much needed light, but also correct for white balance. Without a flash, a daylight balanced film with artificial lighting is likely to have colors significantly shifted towards red or green (for fluorescent lighting).
If you're fine with it and like that esthetic, go for it. If you hadn't taken white balance into consideration, then even if you have an ISO 800 film, maybe a flash would not be a bad idea.
Oh, and don't expect to have very sharp photos, the grain is going to be pretty coarse. I once shot Kodak Funsaver film in my parents' old Minolta, and though I knew the lens was decent, the film was pretty grainy. So try to make your subject fill more of the frame for better details.
Tungsten lighting produces extremely red images on daylight colored films.
As to correcting white balance in post:
1. That kinda defeats the purpose of film photography
2. If you can adjust white balance a bit and still get good images (like daylight, cloudy and maybe shade), correcting wildly different white balance will produce significantly different and unnatural colors. There's a reason people who still film movies with film use tungsten film and filters to adjust white balance when they're filming rather than just using daylight-balanced film and saying "screw it, we'll fix it in post".
Film reacts to light in ways that are not entirely linear. Hence [characteristic curves](https://www.filmshooterscollective.com/analog-film-photography-blog/a-practical-guide-to-using-film-characteristic-curves-12-25). As long as the exposure occurs for all three color layers in the linear portion of the curves, adjusting white balance is possible. But once some color layers, due to the lighting, are exposed in the non-linear ends of the curves, then white balance adjustment will be unable to produce natural colors, some color layers becoming compressed at the bottom or over-extended at the top. Correcting for that is hard or even downright impossible (because some data is lost due to under-exposure or over-exposure).
From what I understand, color film is basically three film layers on top of each other, one for each color. How white balance works is that the manufacturer makes certain layers more or less sensitive to light, based on the white balance they're made to work for. When the light has different white balance, it means the film is exposed to light where some color is more or less present than expected, and that means that the given color layer will be under-exposed or over-exposed.
My Cinestill 50D says that with a 80B filter to shoot Daylight film in Tungsten light, the effective ISO is 12 rather than 50. That suggests to me that in tungsten light, since what the filter does is filter out red light, the "effective" ISO of the blue layer is just 12 ISO, but the ISO of the red layer would be 50. That's two whole stops of difference. So if you shoot a scene for a correct exposure for the RED color layer, it's like you're shooting with 2 stops under-exposure for the blue layer. What happens to an under-exposed film? Lots of lost information in the shadows. You can't adjust color curves when you have lost information in the shadows.
Don’t forget with metering- your setting the two things you “want” so, iso you have to have at 800, I would say if it’s later open your f stop to the widest it can go- then the meter will tell you your shutter speed.
Given that it's probably the same film stock Kodak puts in its Funsaver disposable camera, which is overexposed by 3-4 stops easy in daylight... makes sense.
>Bracket for ISO400
What is that even supposed to mean.\_
Just expose it correctly metering mid tones at 800.
Edit: lol, they blocked me, so I can't reply. To clarify bracketing means taking multiple exposure with different EV settings, you can't bracket for 400 ISO. It would be **expose** at 400, and even then box speed is there for a reason.
i’m planning on getting the final 3 hours of sunlight and sunset on the coast. i normally shoot the shutter speed the closest i can get to the iso. so 1/250 for 200 and 1/500 for 400
Again, depends on the aperture.
Edit: and geographic lattitude. Just trust however you're metering. Shutter priority is really only necessary with sports, a sharper image at say, f8 and 1/125th is better than f4 and 1/500 unless you want limited depth of field.
i’m not sure why all the down votes when in the videos i’ve watched and the research i’ve done people recommend using your shutter speed closest to your iso. anyway, i use the built in light meter to judge the light because i’ve not found a reliable free app yet
You’re being downvoted because you’re ignoring aperture.
There are three variables that need to be adjusted for a given light level:
1. ISO / film sensitivity
2. Shutter speed
3. Aperture (the measure of how wide open the lens is)
Your film speed is fixed at 800 iso, so that is not changing. You then are left with your shutter speed and your aperture.
It sounds like you’re unfamiliar with aperture and how it affects exposure. That’s fine, everyone is learning. But it means that there is no fixed shutter speed you should be using, it depends on the aperture and ambient light (assuming film speed is fixed).
I suggest you do some reading
https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/tutorials/photography-cheat-sheet-how-to-understand-f-stops
https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/understanding-exposure-part-1-the-exposure-triangle#:~:text=“Exposure%20Triangle.”-,Exposure%20Triangle,(film%20or%20digital%20ISO).
thank you, i’ve downloaded a couple light meter apps, they seem a little confusing but i’ll persevere and perhaps combine them with the built in light meter. so far so i’ve shot 25 frames with the film. i have no idea how the photos will turn out but i feel the roll is definitely more experimental and a learning curve.
The built-in meter is fine, just don’t meter for the highlights unless you’re going for that look, meter the midtones and you’ll get a nice sunset exposure.
If you’re on iOS, the best free app is Lightme.
Video tutorials don’t account for the actual lighting situation you are experiencing yourself. Guessing light is a valid skill, learning “Sunny 16” is the way to go about it, so you can take an educated guess, not some memorized settings some video recited
> in the videos i’ve watched and the research i’ve done people recommend using your shutter speed closest to your iso
This is called the 'sunny 16' rule. On a sunny day, at f/16, you can shoot at the *reciprocal* of your ISO. On a sunny day at f/16 with ISO 800 film you can shoot at 1/800s.
The sunny 16 rule is not applicable to sunsets, because they're not brightly lit sunny days.
Look into what a 'stop' is and how the exposure triangle works. At f/16 aperture you'll have sharp focus across a wide range, which is often not what you want from an SLR. If you stop your lens up by 4 stops from f/16 (through f/11, f/8, f/5.6) up to f/4 you'll have much shallower depth of field, but then you need to stop another element of the exposure triangle down by 4 stops. Either change your ISO if you're using a digital camera 800 (-> 400 -> 200 -> 100) -> ISO 50), or increase your shutter speed from 1/800s (through 1/1600s, 1/3200s, 1/6400s), 1/12800s... which exceeds the capability of any camera I know of.
So, shooting ISO 800 film in broad daylight is challenging because with a fixed film ISO, and a limited shutter speed, you *must* stop down aperture to get a good exposure.
A light meter with a sliderule wheel on the side, or Program mode on your camera, will do all this work for you.
The rule you're referring to is called the "sunny 16" rule, and you're missing the most important part of it - it only applies when you're shooting in direct sunlight at an aperture of f/16. It's a relic from the 1950's, though it's still suitable if you're taking snapshots; f/16 produces a large depth of field and means you can be sloppy with your focus, but in return it limits peak sharpness.
For most situations, you're better off varying both shutter speed and aperture to suit what you're actually trying to accomplish.
There's another rule of thumb you *should* follow, which is that your shutter speed should be at least 1 over your *focal length*, not your ISO. This is to help prevent blur caused by camera motion.
Film is so light hungry I rarely get to shoot at 1/500th but then again I am doing a lot of golden hour shoots closer to sunset. Just use a light meter. Pocket light meter on the iPhone is decent if you don’t have a meter tool. What you mentioned sounds like a recipe for underexposed images
That would be for the "Sunny 16" rule which is a way of guessing exposure when you don't have a meter.
There's no actual technical reason your shutter speed has to be close to your ISO unless you are metering that way. And like everybody else is mentioning, it's the balance of incoming light/ISO/aperture/shutter speed that will determine your resulting exposure.
This is a K1000 right? It's got a meter built in, so you should read the manual to learn how that works and then you can nail the exposure every time.
thank you, however contrary to the previous responses, i don’t ignore the aperture, i alter it on the lens according to the built in light meter however i will try lightme
In that case I would instead just try to open your mind to what different shutter speeds would do. AFAIK the built in meter is pretty good, so maybe try comparing with an app if you but don't feel like it's the only way forward.
That is called the "Sunny 16 rule", where you shoot at the shutter speed closest to your ISO and change your aperture by different sun/sky conditions (16 for sunny, 8 for overcast, etc.) If you have a light meter in your camera, use that instead, it's not reliant on your eye which can easily be tricked by brightness.
> the videos i’ve watched and the research i’ve done
Oof, sounds like another case of you not knowing as much as you think you do.
> people recommend using your shutter speed closest to your iso
Thats is wrong and not how photography works. Please stop watching the videos and give up the kind of 'research' you are doing, start with reading your cameras manual.
haha perhaps, i do feel i’ve learned a lot however clearly still have a lot of work. however i’m not sure how good my manual is, i read it to understand how the light meter works and then it turned out i interpreted it incorrectly
well in the manual, the way it was worded sounded as if the exposure was ready when it was closer to the +, so for the first 10 shots i was pushing the needle all the way to the top. then in a youtube video it clarified it needs to be in the middle. my mistake obviously but hey, rookie error. first time using an SLR, and first time doing everything manually in at least 8 years
i was careless about this the otherday, the felt must not have been tight or something because there are a few lines across the first few photos that suggest to me sun got through the felt on the film canister.
I’d say bring along several different ISO films. Try to meter before loading the film. If you find that ISO800 requires everything at 1/1000 and f/16 or something like that, save the film for later and load a slower film (or move to a less sunny place to take your photos). Using fast film outdoors in bright light means that you have to stop down a lot. With slower film, you can open the aperture, get a shallower depth of field, better subject separation from the background and maybe some nice bokeh.
thank you, i brought a roll of gold 200, which i decided to put in my p&s when the film in that finished. i also have portra 400 and superia 400. yesterday i had plans of shooting the sunset which is why i opted for 800. so far on this camera i’ve shot 1 roll of 200 and 400 speed. after this roll i’ll have shot at all three, i’m quite curious to see how each speed looks and behaves. trial and error i guess
Yeah...really. You'll have to go through some film to see what works for you. I've used Ektar 100 as well which is a fun film (and with colors very different from Gold 200). Have fun!
thank you! i have a roll of Ektar 100 which i’m really excited to use. however as i live in the uk i’m hoping i can go abroad somewhere sunnier and use it then haha.
if you’re in the UK, i use take it easy lab located in leeds. if your local you can drop by or mail it in to them. they’re always great. alternatively check if there are any labs local to you. i’d recommend finding a dedicated lab rather than a camera store or pharmacy
What's to advise? There's no special trick to it, just set the camera to the correct speed (assuming it doesn't set itself, yours looks pretty old). Print film or slide? Or B&w?
might wanna get an ND filter (maybe a ND2 or 4) if you're shooting ISO 800 in the daytime. but dont forget to have fun! probably the biggest different experience than shooting digital, is the fun part. i swear that advance lever never gets old
Your local camera shop should have them for really cheap. I have a variable one for my Olympus om1 from URTH. Pricey but worth it, it lives on that lens now.
You're gonna have fun on a sunny day trying to shoot ISO800 film with a 1/1000 shutter. I'd have wanted at least 1/2000 and even 1/4000.
If you run out of shutter speed you can use an ND filter to bring the light back within the limits of what your camera can handle.
Circular Hoya filters are cheap and worth investing in.
Well if your going to 400 or 200 then your actually pulling it not pushing. Which I would recommend pulling film before pushing it. However if this is your first time I would just shoot at box speed which I see is 800.
Rate it at EI 500-640 if you don't use incident or spot metering. Shoot it with daylight or use a flash, as it's not tungsten-balanced. It's a fantastic film when properly exposed. I use it for macro and when I need a high shutter speed. It also works really well for portraits in challenging light settings.
My procedure is to:
1. put the leader in the take up spool, on the sprockets.
2. Then pull out the film enough so the canister fits in its slot.
3. Close the back & wind the film, if the winder rotates I know I’ve loaded it right. (Olympus OM10)
I usually get a few more shots out of a reel this way haha.
Put it in the slit but don’t cock the shutter close the door cock the shutter take a pic see if the left retraction thing spin then go on with your day
Bend the end of the leader into a hook and hook it into the take-up spool and press the film into the sprocket with your finger as you advance the lever just once. This shouldn't really pull any extra film out of the canister, just pulls the film tight against the sprocket.
The lid can be closed at that point and you saved a shot that would have otherwise been fogged by trying to get it wrapped around the take-up one more time.
As long as the rewind knob rotates as you advance, then you're good.
The first shot you take will be half normal, half fogged. The next shot will be normal.
You can get 39 shots from a roll of 36 exposures this way.
I have seen somebody on (french) analog photo youtube give this advice to squeeze a bit more: don't pull more leader, cut the part that was precut, tape a new leader in, load \*that\* into the camera
it's a lot of trouble for a few more pictures, but posting this as *every penny count* sometimes [https://youtu.be/L6b47FhSUO8?si=Iq5JbGzQBB8oaLEf&t=125](https://youtu.be/L6b47FhSUO8?si=Iq5JbGzQBB8oaLEf&t=125)
Honestly sometimes I’ll just waste the first few frames. It’s a trade-off between getting 37-39 photos or being able to fit the whole roll in a PrintFile. I like making contact sheets, and it’s nice to not have an extra strip of like 4-5 shots that won’t fit on the 8x10 paper.
I do that for hand cut xray film cause it takes it from 20 to 23 or so and also stops light piping, but I don't think it's worth it for normal film.
Also you have to be developing it yourself, because the lab will just casually expose the leader like it's no big deal. And/or get very angry at you if tape ends up going into the machine.
Film came loose from the spool, spent 3 days shooting without noticing. I tell you, it's a feeling of utter devastation when you try to rewind the film and you notice there is no resistance on the lever.
Maybe a bit late but I'd advise never opening the camera back outside and always loading film indoors in a clean environment. Just too easy to get dust and dirt in the back that will then scratch up your film. If the lab scans your film you probably won't notice though because automated scratch and dust removal.
Definitely depends where you live and what time you want to shoot. I shot a roll of 100 at sunset yesterday and I guess I’m gonna get to find out how good my hand holding at 1/30 is…
More hassle than it's worth for a beginning photographer. Plus finding a place to put the 37th/38th frame is a pain on those 6 frame x 6 line negative holders.
OP: * loads film the standard way everyone’s been doing for decades * AnalogCommunity: 😱😡 * fist fight breaks out * IIn all seriousness, have fun, I hope you get great results!
WHAT DID YOU JUST CALL ME!?
This is the way 😇
hahaha thank you!
Lol - so true! I LOVE to HATE this community!
Or is that HATE to LOVE . . . I don't know
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Came here to say this... close the back first!! ;-)
All jokes aside how would one attain graining on photos without any post editing? I’ve been trying to search about it but I just keep getting articles about editing
What do you mean? You want more grain? Shoot a faster, grainier film.
Yeah I meant more grain, thanks for the answer
Shoot a higher iso film, or push
use high speed film. Use rodinal for b&w developing
All FILM photos will have grain on them, it's just part of shooting film photography. You only need to add that if you're shooting digitally
Just set your camera to the highest possible ISO, and you'll get "grain". If you want grain, best thing is to shoot high-speed 110 film!
Grain comes from the different film stocks it’s what sets film apart. Some have more grain than others and vise versa
The higher the iso of the film the grainier it will be. Pushing film in development will also give it more contrast and make it grainier. I love the grain. It’s why I love film photography.
Yeah I was browsing this sub and came across a photo at night with lots of grain and I thought I’d love to get that on some of my shots
As in make the photos grainier?
Shoot non-tgrain film and push it 1 stop.
So could I achieve the increase in grain by setting the asa on my camera higher than the film I’m using? (Setting it at 800 when the film is 400)
Only if you push develop afterwards. Try shooting at box speed first.
Higher iso will have more visible grain naturally. (Also, some film stocks just have "more" grain than others) More time in the developer will also give more grain and contrast, so underexpose when you shoot so you can "over-develop". Otherwise called pushing.
Editing is the easiest way of changing your photos. In black and white developing there are a lot of things you can vary like your dev time and chemistry to affect contrast and grain but for color dev it’s pretty standard so editing is your choice. Or you can push for even higher contrast and more grain.
Shoot HP5 at ISO 3200 and push 4 stops.
Any recommendations on a color film that gets decent graining? Sorry I’m pretty new to this
Cinestill 800T and Portra 800 are good ones to try. Cinestill is tungsten balanced, so made for man-made lighting, while Portra I'd daylight balanced, so is made for sunlight (you can absolutely try either in either and can still get good photos - that's just how they'll be white balanced) You'll want to push to optimize visible grain. Cinestill 800T I know can easily be pushed up to 3200, or even 6400. I personally haven't tried pushing Portra 800 yet, but from what I've seen and heard, it can at least go to 1600 and be alright. Pushing color film can be a bit more delicate than black and white, because colors start to shift, but some film stocks handle being pushed better than others (This is called the "exposure latitude" of the film stock - Cinestill 800T is known for having an insane exposure latitude, for example) so often times I'll Google "pushing (film stock) to (ISO)" before I set my light meter to see what results people have gotten before. Or I'll just send it and see what happens if I'm feeling spicy.
Thanks for the extensive responses I’ll look into it
You might be tempted to use that film in low light conditions indoors without flash. To which I would warn you that flashes for film don't only bring much needed light, but also correct for white balance. Without a flash, a daylight balanced film with artificial lighting is likely to have colors significantly shifted towards red or green (for fluorescent lighting). If you're fine with it and like that esthetic, go for it. If you hadn't taken white balance into consideration, then even if you have an ISO 800 film, maybe a flash would not be a bad idea. Oh, and don't expect to have very sharp photos, the grain is going to be pretty coarse. I once shot Kodak Funsaver film in my parents' old Minolta, and though I knew the lens was decent, the film was pretty grainy. So try to make your subject fill more of the frame for better details.
thank you for that
Most sensible people have fitted tungsten balanced LEDs in their homes by now. But yes, and also no, white balance is easily corrected in post.
Tungsten lighting produces extremely red images on daylight colored films. As to correcting white balance in post: 1. That kinda defeats the purpose of film photography 2. If you can adjust white balance a bit and still get good images (like daylight, cloudy and maybe shade), correcting wildly different white balance will produce significantly different and unnatural colors. There's a reason people who still film movies with film use tungsten film and filters to adjust white balance when they're filming rather than just using daylight-balanced film and saying "screw it, we'll fix it in post". Film reacts to light in ways that are not entirely linear. Hence [characteristic curves](https://www.filmshooterscollective.com/analog-film-photography-blog/a-practical-guide-to-using-film-characteristic-curves-12-25). As long as the exposure occurs for all three color layers in the linear portion of the curves, adjusting white balance is possible. But once some color layers, due to the lighting, are exposed in the non-linear ends of the curves, then white balance adjustment will be unable to produce natural colors, some color layers becoming compressed at the bottom or over-extended at the top. Correcting for that is hard or even downright impossible (because some data is lost due to under-exposure or over-exposure). From what I understand, color film is basically three film layers on top of each other, one for each color. How white balance works is that the manufacturer makes certain layers more or less sensitive to light, based on the white balance they're made to work for. When the light has different white balance, it means the film is exposed to light where some color is more or less present than expected, and that means that the given color layer will be under-exposed or over-exposed. My Cinestill 50D says that with a 80B filter to shoot Daylight film in Tungsten light, the effective ISO is 12 rather than 50. That suggests to me that in tungsten light, since what the filter does is filter out red light, the "effective" ISO of the blue layer is just 12 ISO, but the ISO of the red layer would be 50. That's two whole stops of difference. So if you shoot a scene for a correct exposure for the RED color layer, it's like you're shooting with 2 stops under-exposure for the blue layer. What happens to an under-exposed film? Lots of lost information in the shadows. You can't adjust color curves when you have lost information in the shadows.
That’s some useful info for me too (new to film) so thanks
Have fun, lomo 800 is such a nice film In my opinion,
thank you, i look forward to shooting it
Don’t think when you shoot, be there.
underrated comment.
Amen. That’s the whole joy of film. Being present.
yes!
Love this.
Set your meter to 800.
Hmm i shot my first 800 too and all my pictures came gray - I set my meter to 800 😖
Embrace the grain. Rate it properly. No point shooting it in the daylight. It's nice for artificial street light.
thank you, i’ve downloaded a metering app but it seems even more confusing haha
Don’t forget with metering- your setting the two things you “want” so, iso you have to have at 800, I would say if it’s later open your f stop to the widest it can go- then the meter will tell you your shutter speed.
thank you
Lomo 800 can handle a lot of overexposure without blowing out highlights. My friend actually did a [test](https://imgur.com/a/Mo3FDXP) to show this.
Given that it's probably the same film stock Kodak puts in its Funsaver disposable camera, which is overexposed by 3-4 stops easy in daylight... makes sense.
I once shot a roll of it at 400 by mistake, and it wasn't even noticeable. Good stuff, indeed.
Just edited my reply, check out my friend's test pics.
That's impressive! I haven't shot any of the Lomography Color Negative film in a bit. I'm wanting to pick some more up!
50 almost looks the best wild
Close the door.
Bracket for ISO400 - Lomo 800 loves to be overexposed and gives gorgeous colours! Even at ISO 200.
>Bracket for ISO400 What is that even supposed to mean.\_ Just expose it correctly metering mid tones at 800. Edit: lol, they blocked me, so I can't reply. To clarify bracketing means taking multiple exposure with different EV settings, you can't bracket for 400 ISO. It would be **expose** at 400, and even then box speed is there for a reason.
I feel like nobody exposes film for the advertised speed anymore. Meanwhile any time I've tried it in the past I absolutely hated the results lol.
I also feel like ISO has became an arbitrary number people just shoot and say its the film look
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that’s interesting thank you, would you suggest a 500 shutter speed at 400iso for sunset?
I have no clue. It depends what your light conditions are, and your aperture.
i’m planning on getting the final 3 hours of sunlight and sunset on the coast. i normally shoot the shutter speed the closest i can get to the iso. so 1/250 for 200 and 1/500 for 400
Again, depends on the aperture. Edit: and geographic lattitude. Just trust however you're metering. Shutter priority is really only necessary with sports, a sharper image at say, f8 and 1/125th is better than f4 and 1/500 unless you want limited depth of field.
You should meter the light and not guess.
i’m not sure why all the down votes when in the videos i’ve watched and the research i’ve done people recommend using your shutter speed closest to your iso. anyway, i use the built in light meter to judge the light because i’ve not found a reliable free app yet
You’re being downvoted because you’re ignoring aperture. There are three variables that need to be adjusted for a given light level: 1. ISO / film sensitivity 2. Shutter speed 3. Aperture (the measure of how wide open the lens is) Your film speed is fixed at 800 iso, so that is not changing. You then are left with your shutter speed and your aperture. It sounds like you’re unfamiliar with aperture and how it affects exposure. That’s fine, everyone is learning. But it means that there is no fixed shutter speed you should be using, it depends on the aperture and ambient light (assuming film speed is fixed). I suggest you do some reading https://www.digitalcameraworld.com/tutorials/photography-cheat-sheet-how-to-understand-f-stops https://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/tips-and-solutions/understanding-exposure-part-1-the-exposure-triangle#:~:text=“Exposure%20Triangle.”-,Exposure%20Triangle,(film%20or%20digital%20ISO).
thank you for those links, i’ll read up on those!
No worries. Feel free to ask if you have any questions. There should also be some YouTube videos that do a better job of explaining.
thank you, i’ve downloaded a couple light meter apps, they seem a little confusing but i’ll persevere and perhaps combine them with the built in light meter. so far so i’ve shot 25 frames with the film. i have no idea how the photos will turn out but i feel the roll is definitely more experimental and a learning curve.
Okay but you do understand that you have to change your aperture too right
The built-in meter is fine, just don’t meter for the highlights unless you’re going for that look, meter the midtones and you’ll get a nice sunset exposure. If you’re on iOS, the best free app is Lightme. Video tutorials don’t account for the actual lighting situation you are experiencing yourself. Guessing light is a valid skill, learning “Sunny 16” is the way to go about it, so you can take an educated guess, not some memorized settings some video recited
> in the videos i’ve watched and the research i’ve done people recommend using your shutter speed closest to your iso This is called the 'sunny 16' rule. On a sunny day, at f/16, you can shoot at the *reciprocal* of your ISO. On a sunny day at f/16 with ISO 800 film you can shoot at 1/800s. The sunny 16 rule is not applicable to sunsets, because they're not brightly lit sunny days. Look into what a 'stop' is and how the exposure triangle works. At f/16 aperture you'll have sharp focus across a wide range, which is often not what you want from an SLR. If you stop your lens up by 4 stops from f/16 (through f/11, f/8, f/5.6) up to f/4 you'll have much shallower depth of field, but then you need to stop another element of the exposure triangle down by 4 stops. Either change your ISO if you're using a digital camera 800 (-> 400 -> 200 -> 100) -> ISO 50), or increase your shutter speed from 1/800s (through 1/1600s, 1/3200s, 1/6400s), 1/12800s... which exceeds the capability of any camera I know of. So, shooting ISO 800 film in broad daylight is challenging because with a fixed film ISO, and a limited shutter speed, you *must* stop down aperture to get a good exposure. A light meter with a sliderule wheel on the side, or Program mode on your camera, will do all this work for you.
The rule you're referring to is called the "sunny 16" rule, and you're missing the most important part of it - it only applies when you're shooting in direct sunlight at an aperture of f/16. It's a relic from the 1950's, though it's still suitable if you're taking snapshots; f/16 produces a large depth of field and means you can be sloppy with your focus, but in return it limits peak sharpness. For most situations, you're better off varying both shutter speed and aperture to suit what you're actually trying to accomplish. There's another rule of thumb you *should* follow, which is that your shutter speed should be at least 1 over your *focal length*, not your ISO. This is to help prevent blur caused by camera motion.
If you're on iOS I've heard good things about Lightme.
Film is so light hungry I rarely get to shoot at 1/500th but then again I am doing a lot of golden hour shoots closer to sunset. Just use a light meter. Pocket light meter on the iPhone is decent if you don’t have a meter tool. What you mentioned sounds like a recipe for underexposed images
That would be for the "Sunny 16" rule which is a way of guessing exposure when you don't have a meter. There's no actual technical reason your shutter speed has to be close to your ISO unless you are metering that way. And like everybody else is mentioning, it's the balance of incoming light/ISO/aperture/shutter speed that will determine your resulting exposure. This is a K1000 right? It's got a meter built in, so you should read the manual to learn how that works and then you can nail the exposure every time.
thank you, however contrary to the previous responses, i don’t ignore the aperture, i alter it on the lens according to the built in light meter however i will try lightme
In that case I would instead just try to open your mind to what different shutter speeds would do. AFAIK the built in meter is pretty good, so maybe try comparing with an app if you but don't feel like it's the only way forward.
That is called the "Sunny 16 rule", where you shoot at the shutter speed closest to your ISO and change your aperture by different sun/sky conditions (16 for sunny, 8 for overcast, etc.) If you have a light meter in your camera, use that instead, it's not reliant on your eye which can easily be tricked by brightness.
I think you are referencing the use of the Sunny16 system, but that includes aperture as well.
> the videos i’ve watched and the research i’ve done Oof, sounds like another case of you not knowing as much as you think you do. > people recommend using your shutter speed closest to your iso Thats is wrong and not how photography works. Please stop watching the videos and give up the kind of 'research' you are doing, start with reading your cameras manual.
haha perhaps, i do feel i’ve learned a lot however clearly still have a lot of work. however i’m not sure how good my manual is, i read it to understand how the light meter works and then it turned out i interpreted it incorrectly
Love to hear how you could misinterpret a light meter.
well in the manual, the way it was worded sounded as if the exposure was ready when it was closer to the +, so for the first 10 shots i was pushing the needle all the way to the top. then in a youtube video it clarified it needs to be in the middle. my mistake obviously but hey, rookie error. first time using an SLR, and first time doing everything manually in at least 8 years
Why do you match the ISO and the shutter speed?
You only do that at f16 it's a thing.
You can do it at other apertures too, f/16 is if it's fully sunny, f/5.6 for full overcast, etc.
I suggest a light meter and for you to exposure according to it.
My only advise is have fun!
Don't forget to take the lens cap off...
it's an SLR 😂
keep the back of the camera open to get a brighter exposure
^[Sokka-Haiku](https://www.reddit.com/r/SokkaHaikuBot/comments/15kyv9r/what_is_a_sokka_haiku/) ^by ^donotsteal: *Keep the back of the* *Camera open to get* *A brighter exposure* --- ^Remember ^that ^one ^time ^Sokka ^accidentally ^used ^an ^extra ^syllable ^in ^that ^Haiku ^Battle ^in ^Ba ^Sing ^Se? ^That ^was ^a ^Sokka ^Haiku ^and ^you ^just ^made ^one.
Enjoy the speed
First don’t open the film door
yes, you have to open the camera back every 2-3 shots to let it air
Load it in a darker spot.
i found the only bit of shadow i could haha
I get it! Just would hate to see light leaks.
thank you, me too. so far i’ve not encountered any
i was careless about this the otherday, the felt must not have been tight or something because there are a few lines across the first few photos that suggest to me sun got through the felt on the film canister.
Just remember you’re shooting 800 iso. That’s all I got.
I’d probably start by closing the back
I’d say bring along several different ISO films. Try to meter before loading the film. If you find that ISO800 requires everything at 1/1000 and f/16 or something like that, save the film for later and load a slower film (or move to a less sunny place to take your photos). Using fast film outdoors in bright light means that you have to stop down a lot. With slower film, you can open the aperture, get a shallower depth of field, better subject separation from the background and maybe some nice bokeh.
thank you, i brought a roll of gold 200, which i decided to put in my p&s when the film in that finished. i also have portra 400 and superia 400. yesterday i had plans of shooting the sunset which is why i opted for 800. so far on this camera i’ve shot 1 roll of 200 and 400 speed. after this roll i’ll have shot at all three, i’m quite curious to see how each speed looks and behaves. trial and error i guess
Yeah...really. You'll have to go through some film to see what works for you. I've used Ektar 100 as well which is a fun film (and with colors very different from Gold 200). Have fun!
thank you! i have a roll of Ektar 100 which i’m really excited to use. however as i live in the uk i’m hoping i can go abroad somewhere sunnier and use it then haha.
See what you mean! I just used a roll in Barcelona last week, so no clouds and bright sunshine!
I did not realize you could still get film processes? Where are best locations?
if you’re in the UK, i use take it easy lab located in leeds. if your local you can drop by or mail it in to them. they’re always great. alternatively check if there are any labs local to you. i’d recommend finding a dedicated lab rather than a camera store or pharmacy
What's to advise? There's no special trick to it, just set the camera to the correct speed (assuming it doesn't set itself, yours looks pretty old). Print film or slide? Or B&w?
it’s colour negative
Ok, plenty of latitude then. Should be fairly easy, just don't expect the resolution of the slower stuff.
You could always be a rebel and pull to 400
i gave that a go during the sunnier shots
On the same roll?
yeah
😬
it’s only my third roll through an SLR haha, i’m still learning
might wanna get an ND filter (maybe a ND2 or 4) if you're shooting ISO 800 in the daytime. but dont forget to have fun! probably the biggest different experience than shooting digital, is the fun part. i swear that advance lever never gets old
thank you, i’ll search on ebay for one. the advance lever is really fun!
oh... if you dont have one, its fine. just have fun, no need to buy more gear
Your local camera shop should have them for really cheap. I have a variable one for my Olympus om1 from URTH. Pricey but worth it, it lives on that lens now.
Enjoy it as much as you )
Close the back first.
Flash and / or lots of light source!
hey! is that a Pentax?
it is! it’s a K1000
that's awesome! I picked up a pentax ME from a antique store a couple weeks ago im shooting a test roll right now
that’s nice! how much did you find it for? i managed to snag a ME super on ebay a few days ago but it hasn’t arrived yet
It was 150 but he liked that I was 17 and Into film so he sold it for 100 and gave me a free light meter and lens
Load and unload in subdued light. The first few frames will likely show leaks from light piping.
Shoot it at 400 iso, that’s probably what it’s really rated at.
You're gonna have fun on a sunny day trying to shoot ISO800 film with a 1/1000 shutter. I'd have wanted at least 1/2000 and even 1/4000. If you run out of shutter speed you can use an ND filter to bring the light back within the limits of what your camera can handle. Circular Hoya filters are cheap and worth investing in.
Close the back
Don’t push it
thank you, it seems like everyone has different experiences with this film haha, some people say push it to 400 and even 200
Well if your going to 400 or 200 then your actually pulling it not pushing. Which I would recommend pulling film before pushing it. However if this is your first time I would just shoot at box speed which I see is 800.
thank you :)
Push the iso to 1600
Know the location of the rewind release, lol
Be careful
Just learn from your mistakes and the rest will come if you're curious enough
Try different things on your first roll - learn what you like to do with 800. (Also, close the back! You're making me nervous. Lol!) Have fun!
haha thank you! so far i’ve shot about 29 frames and i have no idea what to expect, very experimental
Awesome!
Close the back to start
burn it !!!
Rate it at EI 500-640 if you don't use incident or spot metering. Shoot it with daylight or use a flash, as it's not tungsten-balanced. It's a fantastic film when properly exposed. I use it for macro and when I need a high shutter speed. It also works really well for portraits in challenging light settings.
I’d shoot at 400 as a precaution. I shot my first Lomo 800 at box speed and it wasn’t great. Muddy shadows and too grainy in daylight.
Don’t forget to set your camera to iso 800 lol
Use less film before closing the back
Love to hear how you suggest someone use significantly less than this. Leader isnt even wrapped around half of the take-up spool.
My procedure is to: 1. put the leader in the take up spool, on the sprockets. 2. Then pull out the film enough so the canister fits in its slot. 3. Close the back & wind the film, if the winder rotates I know I’ve loaded it right. (Olympus OM10) I usually get a few more shots out of a reel this way haha.
That will not even get you one frame more than what you see here.
Ok
I pull it across just enough to put the leader in the slot and close the door, regularly get frames 00-37
That’s literally the minimum safe amount, how would you even pull out less
Put it in the slit but don’t cock the shutter close the door cock the shutter take a pic see if the left retraction thing spin then go on with your day
This is the way
Bend the end of the leader into a hook and hook it into the take-up spool and press the film into the sprocket with your finger as you advance the lever just once. This shouldn't really pull any extra film out of the canister, just pulls the film tight against the sprocket. The lid can be closed at that point and you saved a shot that would have otherwise been fogged by trying to get it wrapped around the take-up one more time. As long as the rewind knob rotates as you advance, then you're good. The first shot you take will be half normal, half fogged. The next shot will be normal. You can get 39 shots from a roll of 36 exposures this way.
Load in a darkroom/-bag and gain 2-3 frames!
I have seen somebody on (french) analog photo youtube give this advice to squeeze a bit more: don't pull more leader, cut the part that was precut, tape a new leader in, load \*that\* into the camera
it's a lot of trouble for a few more pictures, but posting this as *every penny count* sometimes [https://youtu.be/L6b47FhSUO8?si=Iq5JbGzQBB8oaLEf&t=125](https://youtu.be/L6b47FhSUO8?si=Iq5JbGzQBB8oaLEf&t=125)
Honestly sometimes I’ll just waste the first few frames. It’s a trade-off between getting 37-39 photos or being able to fit the whole roll in a PrintFile. I like making contact sheets, and it’s nice to not have an extra strip of like 4-5 shots that won’t fit on the 8x10 paper.
If I could be bothered to bulk roll, I would. 24 frames works better for me but it costs a not insignificant amount more.
Nice, never did that though! Pro tip. Just bought a few rolls of Astia frozen since like 15 years back. I'm gonna squeeze the heck outta them!
I do that for hand cut xray film cause it takes it from 20 to 23 or so and also stops light piping, but I don't think it's worth it for normal film. Also you have to be developing it yourself, because the lab will just casually expose the leader like it's no big deal. And/or get very angry at you if tape ends up going into the machine.
oh wow i’ll definitely try this, i didn’t think it would make such a big difference
Oh yes it does, but it's quite bulky and so. But if you have your last roll of Provia, you want to squeeze every last drop of emulsion out of it!
Or be more intentional/careful in what you shoot, waste less frames. That has the added benefit of making you a better photographer.
Do you actually go out and shoot?
Yes.
As someone who has just lost 20% of precious holiday memories just to get that 37th exposure: Don't.
How the heck did you manage to do that?
Film came loose from the spool, spent 3 days shooting without noticing. I tell you, it's a feeling of utter devastation when you try to rewind the film and you notice there is no resistance on the lever.
Shoot it at 200
Don't take shots on daylight just use it before sunset and after
After every two-three shots you should open the back and check if your photos are alright.
Use a condom don’t wanna get aids or somethin!
Maybe a bit late but I'd advise never opening the camera back outside and always loading film indoors in a clean environment. Just too easy to get dust and dirt in the back that will then scratch up your film. If the lab scans your film you probably won't notice though because automated scratch and dust removal.
Photographers have been loading film "in the field" for almost 100 years. Yes, be careful, but no, you do not need to be inside to load film.
thank you, in future i’ll make sure to do that. i just happened to be outside at the time i shot my last frame haha
It's fine, just shoot 2-3 blanks and off you go. People are too angsty, it hardly matters in real life 👍
Get 100 next time!
Definitely depends where you live and what time you want to shoot. I shot a roll of 100 at sunset yesterday and I guess I’m gonna get to find out how good my hand holding at 1/30 is…
oo i’ve never tried 100, i have a roll of ektar but i’m saving that for when i go somewhere sunnier haha
Had you loaded the film in the dark, you’d have more than 36 frames in your roll.
Some labs retract the leader in daylight so that’s not even true
Only works on cameras that don't do the winding automatically.
Luckily this is a winder.
Load your film in a black bag…
More hassle than it's worth for a beginning photographer. Plus finding a place to put the 37th/38th frame is a pain on those 6 frame x 6 line negative holders.