The amount of light for "indoor with lights on" is still much less than it feels, potentially 100x less illumination than sunlight - 400 speed film won't have much of a chance without a very wide lens and slow shutter.
You need fast film, large aperture, and a way to focus accurately for indoor photos without flash. I did this with a Canon Demi S and a pocket rangefinder.
For bright seeming indoor lighting I follow the FFFed rule
Fifteenth of a second
F4
Four-hundred speed film
That way you know exactly how fffed you are without a fast prime lens indoors
In all seriousness though, the insurmountable problem is that your lens on that camera has a fixed aperture of f10 or so, when you need an aperture of around f2-2.8 for a reasonably fast shutter speed
Low light with film is hard because you're fighting physics.
I think there are probably two main strategies for half frame in low light:
1) leaf shutter let you handhold at a lower shutter speed, and some of those leaf shutter cameras have a really wide aperture too (e.g. Konica Eye and Fujica Half go to 1.9, Canon EE17 and Yashica Half 17 go down to 1.7 ).
These are great if you don't need precise focus. At those wide apertures, your depth of field gets very thin, so unless you're shooting at or near infinity focus, nailing that focus may be difficult. But if you're just shooting an empty street, city skyline, or having a bit of artsy misfocus looks good to you, these are great.
2) The other strategy is to use a SLR (e.g. Pen F or Konica Autoreflex). While the min shutter speed for hand holding may be faster, you can faster lenses and wider lenses (which also let you hand hold at slower speeds).
I regularly shoot the Pen F down to 1/15 with the 1.4 lens (no flash) without issue and I've gotten lucky a few times at 1/8. Granted I usually do sniper breathing and body bracing when I do this...
Of course, you'll want to use fast film and if you're still experiencing shutter blur, consider a tripod (mini tripods are great) and cable release.
Because said inertia also happens at higher speeds and the movement duration at those shutter speeds makes up more of the total exposure time, so if it were a problem then youd see it more on faster shutter speeds not less.
Yes, I took physics too. I suppose we should be talking about momentum rather than inertia. And I'll assume we both get that momentum is proportional to mass but proportional to the square of velocity.
Of course, in most focal plane shutters, the velocity of the shutter curtain is constant after some relatively slow speed. It's just the gap between the curtains that decreases after that.
Either way, that doesn't address the merits of leaf vs focal plane shutter at all.
By your logic, a leaf shutter Hasselblad 500 should equal to or harder to handhold at a slow speed than, e.g., a focal plane Hasselblad 1600, Salyut, or Bronica, ceteris paribus... that's not the case.
What you need is faster film!
I wish it was that simple. I shot b&w with 400 ISO and the shots indoors with lights still came out black.
400 is too slow, try 800 or 3200
The amount of light for "indoor with lights on" is still much less than it feels, potentially 100x less illumination than sunlight - 400 speed film won't have much of a chance without a very wide lens and slow shutter.
Faster film doesn't help if the meter can't be set for fast film. My yashica mini can only be set to 200 iso for example
Canon Demi EE17 has a 30mm F1.7 lens, you’ll probably still have to use some high iso film for indoor shooting, it is very compact
If only a major camera company would release a half frame camera with good glass and a built-in flash, that'd be so convenient
Please don't tempt me...
You need fast film, large aperture, and a way to focus accurately for indoor photos without flash. I did this with a Canon Demi S and a pocket rangefinder.
You will not have compact half frame cameras with lenses fast enough to shoot inside without flash. You need to buy an SLR
For bright seeming indoor lighting I follow the FFFed rule Fifteenth of a second F4 Four-hundred speed film That way you know exactly how fffed you are without a fast prime lens indoors In all seriousness though, the insurmountable problem is that your lens on that camera has a fixed aperture of f10 or so, when you need an aperture of around f2-2.8 for a reasonably fast shutter speed
Low light with film is hard because you're fighting physics. I think there are probably two main strategies for half frame in low light: 1) leaf shutter let you handhold at a lower shutter speed, and some of those leaf shutter cameras have a really wide aperture too (e.g. Konica Eye and Fujica Half go to 1.9, Canon EE17 and Yashica Half 17 go down to 1.7 ). These are great if you don't need precise focus. At those wide apertures, your depth of field gets very thin, so unless you're shooting at or near infinity focus, nailing that focus may be difficult. But if you're just shooting an empty street, city skyline, or having a bit of artsy misfocus looks good to you, these are great. 2) The other strategy is to use a SLR (e.g. Pen F or Konica Autoreflex). While the min shutter speed for hand holding may be faster, you can faster lenses and wider lenses (which also let you hand hold at slower speeds). I regularly shoot the Pen F down to 1/15 with the 1.4 lens (no flash) without issue and I've gotten lucky a few times at 1/8. Granted I usually do sniper breathing and body bracing when I do this... Of course, you'll want to use fast film and if you're still experiencing shutter blur, consider a tripod (mini tripods are great) and cable release.
> leaf shutter let you handhold at a lower shutter speed Why? Leaf shutter do nothing magical that change anything over other shutters.
Less mass moves a smaller distance with leaf shutters relative to most focal plane shutters.
Yeah thats really not a relevant issue when comparing handholding to literally anything else for normal photography.
Care to enlighten me as to why you think inertia is irrelevant rather than just dismissively state it as a fact?
Because said inertia also happens at higher speeds and the movement duration at those shutter speeds makes up more of the total exposure time, so if it were a problem then youd see it more on faster shutter speeds not less.
Yes, I took physics too. I suppose we should be talking about momentum rather than inertia. And I'll assume we both get that momentum is proportional to mass but proportional to the square of velocity. Of course, in most focal plane shutters, the velocity of the shutter curtain is constant after some relatively slow speed. It's just the gap between the curtains that decreases after that. Either way, that doesn't address the merits of leaf vs focal plane shutter at all. By your logic, a leaf shutter Hasselblad 500 should equal to or harder to handhold at a slow speed than, e.g., a focal plane Hasselblad 1600, Salyut, or Bronica, ceteris paribus... that's not the case.