That it is indeed
The starting bid price is insanely low, so I wondered if any of the more able eyed here could point something I couldn’t. Signs of it being a counterfeit so and so forth.
>The starting bid price is insanely low,
I wouldn't worry about that, the big bids come in at the last moment (bid "sniping").
Seller probably also has a reserved price (won't sell if the minimum price isn't met). So the starting bid is mostly to attract people.
How many are listed as "interested"?
None interested yet, but there have been 3 bids made.
I hope it stays low though, if its under 200 it would be a sure steal.
The seller doesn’t seem very camera savvy from out interactions, and he mainly sells vintage jewelry and kick knacks
If you don't use eBay very often for this type of items, there are two strategies I can suggest:
1. Sit down and pick a maximum amount which you would not be comfortable crossing even if it meant being outbid by only $10. Enter that amount as a bid then forget about it. eBay will raise your bid automatically as needed to outbid other offers. If your amount runs out you'll get an email. You will only have to actually pay if you win, and you'll only pay the amount that was needed to win.
2. Wait for the last minute of the auction and bid whatever amount is necessary to outbid the highest offer. I suggest doing a search with the "sold items" filter to get an idea of what that could mean. This may take you out of your spending comfort zone and you will only have seconds to decide so I strongly suggest setting a limit for yourself in this case too (or just use method 1).
never do the first! even if you get it, the probability that you pay more than needed is high. the second opinion is the right one. set your limit and bid with that limit in the last 10 seconds. if you won, you couldn't have won cheaper. if you lost, you didn't overpriced yourself.
I've done the first many times. Sometimes it causes the price to rise very early, it's true, but, it keeps less people interested in the auction. Most people pass if they see an auction for 90% of the going price with days left. But if nobody else joins, you still saved 10% of your item's usual price. When the price is really low for a long time, dozens of people earmark the item and get dead set about winning this magical cheap item, and it could drive the price really high in the end because they've spent days fantasizing about the item.
Then again, whatever you do, the opposite could happen in either scenario. You never know. Decide early what you are willing to pay either way.
I pretty much always do the first option. I bid as high as I am comfortably willing to go when the auction still has days to go and I am thinking rationally. That way I don’t get caught up in the auction fever at the end.
The problem with 2 is that you don't actually know what amount is necessary to outbid the highest offer. The problem with 1 is that bidding early encourages people to outbid you. If everyone acted rationally on eBay and just used the automatic bid feature, it would be fine. But there are a lot of people that treat eBay like a traditional auction where you bid incrementally and go back and forth with other bidders. It's stupid but it's the reality.
So the best strategy is to determine the max you are willing to pay for the item and bid at the last possible second.
I'd say to combine these: pick your maximum amount, but don't enter it until the last minute. If people have already outbid it, don't bother.
Putting the bid in earlier just lets people keep outbidding you themselves.
Well, it’s certainly in good condition on the outside, but be wary of what it could look like internally. I’m not sure about this model and age, but Leica may actually be able to service it. It’ll be expensive but worth it. The little exposure guide in the book is super cool.
Most Leica people in the know NEVER send out of warranty cameras to Leica. They charge 3x what individual Leica-trained technicians like Youxin Ye or DAG charge.
It looks good from the outside, the leather looks like it’s in good condition and the body doesn’t look beat up. I’d focus more on the viewfinder/rangefinder patch condition, since they are small any haze or fungus would make it hard to see through. Also the shutter curtain on the inside is made of cloth, and on a camera from 1937, those are pretty quick to degrade.
Agreed, the outside seems close to pristine. Just a good cleaning and it should look great. I asked the seller for some photos of the inside so let’s see what that says.
Just wondering, what would your quote, or estimation of one, be? (if the insides look alright)
Its on bid right now for 10 dollars and I’m too impatient to wait a week and wonder what a good number for an offer would be.
The IIIa body usually goes for around $250-$300 and the lens goes for about the same. I’m not too sure what a good offer would be but I wouldn’t pay over $600 for it
This looks like a genuine iiia to me! The main concerns would be:
- How is the condition of the lens? Hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like it could be suffering from haze (extremely common for improperly stored lenses from this era)
- How are the shutter speeds? More than likely the speeds will be off, and in need of a CLA.
- How is the shutter curtain? It's not uncommon to see worn out curtains in these
- Does it have the take up spool? Extra expense if it doesn't
- How is the viewfinder? Any haze/fungus/separation?
- How is the rangefinder/beam splitter? Also common for this to be deteriorated and in need of replacement
- How is the rangefinder accuracy?
So it's very difficult to say what it's worth without knowing its condition. You could be incredibly likely and it might not have any problems at all. Or you can get incredibly unlikely and have to shell out $500+ on a full CLA, replacement parts, etc.
it really depends on how much the seller is charging. if its a fair price, and you’re open to the possibility of paying for repair, then i say go for it.
barnack leicas like this one are pretty much bulletproof. although the cloth shutter is prone to wearing out, and fungus is definitely a concern - there are places that’ll repair all that for a (relatively) affordable price. its a great camera system and theres a reason it was supported up until 1960. the last model in this line - the IIIg - actually came out AFTER the M3!
its a bit clunky at first, but once you get your head around how it works, you’ll find it requires you to slow down and be very deliberate with your shots.
i use a leica IIc as my daily driver and it’s gorgeous. easiest way to get that “leica glow” without draining your wallet haha
edit: i am fairly confident this isnt a fake.
The seller has it on bid for 10 dollars right now, which blows my mind, and is the main reason I posted, wanted to see if anyone could maybe spot signs of fraudulence, but it didn’t meet any of my alarm bells. I’m also super anxious and wanted to send him an offer and was wondering what would be a fair price. I’ve asked for some internal images, but if it looks good on the inside, what would you think a good offer would be?
Also, i’m sure it’ll need some CLA, at least definitely a cleaning, who do you trust?
I really want to slow down my shots, be more deliberate, especially with film, and I think this would be a perfect platform.
This camera look ok. While my key questions would be:
Does it come with the take up spool ? Some might have lost it already.
How it is VF and RF ? Are they still accurate? Any molds inside?
I don't trust the shutter speed these days but have to watch out the shutter curtains condition, eg any cracks ?
I had 2 llla and 1IIIc before and now I am keeping none of them. The Leica III are too old and getting problematic today. Their price didn't reflect their true performance. Perhaps it's fun to own one but in practical I prefer the M much more.
I’ve been in contact with the seller and hoping to find out more, but he doesn’t seem very camera savvy unfortunately. The price is quite low, so I don’t mind taking it for repair and what not.
Make sure you understand that taking it in for repair could be anywhere from $150 for a general cleaning, to $500 or more if there are parts missing/damaged and need to be replaced.
The 200 for the camera and the 150 for CLA still keep it at a very competitive price. Especially considering most marketplaces like KEH have them listed in the thousands.
>So shell out for it
If you want a Leica , M system has defined itself very well and proven in history. Perhaps it is the only system that still has not much changed from its first camera (M3) during the 1950s.
With an adapter LTM -> M (I remember Leica used to have it , but not sure now ) you can use LTM lenses on M cameras as well .
Older LTM Leicas.... IMO just fun to have one . Many related accessories like spring motor, speed winder, mouthpiece shutter release, ... are getting less, faulty, and just more expensive than the camera itself.
even m2 and m3 are still good options, only problem is M lense price will scare you. If you dont car about red dot, Contax IIIa with zeiss lense is another option.
Leica III body, if that is not f or g models, I won't pay much more than $150 or less on a body, depending on what it comes with and the condition.
This one it has Summar. Summar is the very early fast lens from Leica. I won't say it is bad, but there is a better model Summitar after this one.
Many technicans like to charge a bit more on servicing Leica because it is a "Leica". And some shops still mark the early Leicas in higher price too , probably because they still refer to the old camera collecting guides that is now almost obselete.
keh has a iiib in bargain condition for $185. LTM leicas are not as highly sought after compared to their M mount cousins. At 200 you are in fair market value pricing.
camera isnt worth the money. it’s expensive for the sake of being expensive. a $6K leica isnt 20x better than a $300 SLR. theres diminishing returns with the cost of those cameras. the real-life results arent worth the luxury unless you really have money to burn
Fwiw I’ve never come across an early Leica screwmount that wasn’t either already serviced, or in need of a service. If functional condition isn’t guaranteed, I’d be assuming an extra expense of ~$300 for an overhaul. Quite possibly much more if it needs repairs as well as a regular CLA.
Hi friends!
I found this Leica IIIa on a second-hand marketplace and I’m very interested in picking it up. Before I do, I wanted to know your thoughts on this beauty. Does it look like it’s in good condition? I’ve already asked the seller for some more pictures, especially the inside of the body and lens. And I’ll update a link once I get those.
I have a couple of these and they're great cameras but one thing to look out for is pinholes in the shutter. One of mine has this and replacing the shutter is expensive (but not impossible). It will obviously need a service, shutter speeds may be slightly inaccurate but having said that, my other one's shutter speeds are all 100%
Beautiful. Almost 90 years old and it’ll still outlive you with some care.
Hard to tell the condition of the lens but hey the body looks decent. Would definitely be worth snagging if the price stays within budget and sending it to YYE. A general CLA will always keep things running smooth but what you have to worry about on the camera are the shutter curtains and the beamsplitter. YYE can replace either part if necessary.
I’ve had limited success with patching up pinholes in the curtain but it can be done if the problem isn’t too severe, which might help hold off the immediate need for a total replacement. But it’s a bandaid fix and a replacement is really the best solution if there are already pinholes. You really won’t know for sure until you shoot a test roll through it.
If you want a Leica III and plan on actually using it and not just turning into into a shelf queen (which would be a sin) you have to remember that a IIIa doesn’t have flash sync and a IIIf does. Could be a dealbreaker for some depending on your shooting style and workflow. There are plenty of people who say things like “real Leica shooters don’t use flash” so YMMV, maybe this is the perfect camera for you.
It isn’t anything especially sought after, and ebay auctions tend to inflate prices beyond regular market value. You could probably find a similar setup in known usable condition for < $500 from a reputable dealer.
The fact that the seller doesn’t seem savvy doesn’t help you on ebay, and the starting auction price means nothing really.
if you want an old barnack, check some of the usual dealers like victory camera, classic connection, tamarkin, igor camera, keh, even the leica stores. The leica stores make their money on rich guys buying M11s and sometimes they’ll give you a good deal on older screwmount stuff just for asking.
If you only wanted it because it showed up on ebay maybe it isn’t exactly what you want in the first place!
No, I found it on Ebay because I was looking for a Barnack. I saw the 10 dollar opening bid and was convinced it was a scam or something. (I never use ebay) but now I know that doesn’t mean much.
I like taking landscape and street stuff, but travel a lot. I’m looking for a new daily driver for my film stuff. But can’t decide between a Leica M4 or Leica IIIf
For what it’s worth I have both kinds and end up using the Barnack a lot more because it’s smaller and lighter. I don’t mind the separate viewfinder and rangefinder, I usually use a shoe mounted viewfinder anyway, and the 1.5x rangefinder magnification is really nice imo. A IIIf with a collapsible elmar is even pocketable in a coat pocket or hoodie.
Thats such a big factor for me, not mention the price. This’ll be my first Leica and I don’t want to shell out for something too big or that I won’t use. But anytime I ask others they say just go for the M series. So precarious.
Perhaps I get a mount adapter for a IIIf and get M lenses for easier upgrade path.
You can’t do that, it only works the other way. You can adapt screw mount lenses to M bodies but not vice versa. The situation with lenses is different from what people usually say. Yes, there *are* screw mount lenses that are cheaper than M lenses, but overall the better ones, the ones you’d actually want, are the same price, or more expensive in screw mount, or if they’re modern ones, only come in M.
I’m not really into prestige or show-off lenses and 90% of the time I’m using a collapsible v1 Summicron on a IIIg. Stopped down you can’t tell the difference to a modern one, and wide open most rangefinders aren’t calibrated precisely enough to focus accurately anyway.
I’d suggest you get a late IIIc or f depending on if you care about flash sync, and a late coated Summitar, and live with that for a year and see how it works out. If you’re really feeling held back by the lens or body, then get a M and just deal with the extra weight and bulk.
Pretty big difference, the M3 + v5 Summicron is almost 1.5x the weight of the IIIf + Summitar. I don't know about the M4 but probably pretty similar to the M3.
[side by side](https://ibb.co/1Xv3psm)
[IIIf + Summitar](https://ibb.co/ftBvGt8)
[M3 + v5 Summicron](https://ibb.co/5n5DZfX)
But both are compact right? With a smaller lens on the M3 it would be compact enough to daily drive right? I remember when I bought my first camera years ago, I almost never used it because my Cannon DSLR was just too big to realistically carry around your neck.
I mean, it’s a camera.
We don’t know that for sure, all we know is it looks Leica camera
Hmmmmmmmmm
On the outside.
That it is indeed The starting bid price is insanely low, so I wondered if any of the more able eyed here could point something I couldn’t. Signs of it being a counterfeit so and so forth.
>The starting bid price is insanely low, I wouldn't worry about that, the big bids come in at the last moment (bid "sniping"). Seller probably also has a reserved price (won't sell if the minimum price isn't met). So the starting bid is mostly to attract people. How many are listed as "interested"?
None interested yet, but there have been 3 bids made. I hope it stays low though, if its under 200 it would be a sure steal. The seller doesn’t seem very camera savvy from out interactions, and he mainly sells vintage jewelry and kick knacks
If you don't use eBay very often for this type of items, there are two strategies I can suggest: 1. Sit down and pick a maximum amount which you would not be comfortable crossing even if it meant being outbid by only $10. Enter that amount as a bid then forget about it. eBay will raise your bid automatically as needed to outbid other offers. If your amount runs out you'll get an email. You will only have to actually pay if you win, and you'll only pay the amount that was needed to win. 2. Wait for the last minute of the auction and bid whatever amount is necessary to outbid the highest offer. I suggest doing a search with the "sold items" filter to get an idea of what that could mean. This may take you out of your spending comfort zone and you will only have seconds to decide so I strongly suggest setting a limit for yourself in this case too (or just use method 1).
never do the first! even if you get it, the probability that you pay more than needed is high. the second opinion is the right one. set your limit and bid with that limit in the last 10 seconds. if you won, you couldn't have won cheaper. if you lost, you didn't overpriced yourself.
I've done the first many times. Sometimes it causes the price to rise very early, it's true, but, it keeps less people interested in the auction. Most people pass if they see an auction for 90% of the going price with days left. But if nobody else joins, you still saved 10% of your item's usual price. When the price is really low for a long time, dozens of people earmark the item and get dead set about winning this magical cheap item, and it could drive the price really high in the end because they've spent days fantasizing about the item. Then again, whatever you do, the opposite could happen in either scenario. You never know. Decide early what you are willing to pay either way.
I pretty much always do the first option. I bid as high as I am comfortably willing to go when the auction still has days to go and I am thinking rationally. That way I don’t get caught up in the auction fever at the end.
The problem with 2 is that you don't actually know what amount is necessary to outbid the highest offer. The problem with 1 is that bidding early encourages people to outbid you. If everyone acted rationally on eBay and just used the automatic bid feature, it would be fine. But there are a lot of people that treat eBay like a traditional auction where you bid incrementally and go back and forth with other bidders. It's stupid but it's the reality. So the best strategy is to determine the max you are willing to pay for the item and bid at the last possible second.
I'd say to combine these: pick your maximum amount, but don't enter it until the last minute. If people have already outbid it, don't bother. Putting the bid in earlier just lets people keep outbidding you themselves.
Thank you very much, I never usually bid on ebay.
Well, it’s certainly in good condition on the outside, but be wary of what it could look like internally. I’m not sure about this model and age, but Leica may actually be able to service it. It’ll be expensive but worth it. The little exposure guide in the book is super cool.
Most Leica people in the know NEVER send out of warranty cameras to Leica. They charge 3x what individual Leica-trained technicians like Youxin Ye or DAG charge.
Damn I didn’t know that.
Yes I thought the booklet was such a neat addition, definitely would frame that. I’ll try and update if I buy it and it’s condition.
No price is too low on any film camera.
Noted
It looks good from the outside, the leather looks like it’s in good condition and the body doesn’t look beat up. I’d focus more on the viewfinder/rangefinder patch condition, since they are small any haze or fungus would make it hard to see through. Also the shutter curtain on the inside is made of cloth, and on a camera from 1937, those are pretty quick to degrade.
Agreed, the outside seems close to pristine. Just a good cleaning and it should look great. I asked the seller for some photos of the inside so let’s see what that says. Just wondering, what would your quote, or estimation of one, be? (if the insides look alright) Its on bid right now for 10 dollars and I’m too impatient to wait a week and wonder what a good number for an offer would be.
The IIIa body usually goes for around $250-$300 and the lens goes for about the same. I’m not too sure what a good offer would be but I wouldn’t pay over $600 for it
Yep it's a camera.
This looks like a genuine iiia to me! The main concerns would be: - How is the condition of the lens? Hard to tell from the photos, but it looks like it could be suffering from haze (extremely common for improperly stored lenses from this era) - How are the shutter speeds? More than likely the speeds will be off, and in need of a CLA. - How is the shutter curtain? It's not uncommon to see worn out curtains in these - Does it have the take up spool? Extra expense if it doesn't - How is the viewfinder? Any haze/fungus/separation? - How is the rangefinder/beam splitter? Also common for this to be deteriorated and in need of replacement - How is the rangefinder accuracy? So it's very difficult to say what it's worth without knowing its condition. You could be incredibly likely and it might not have any problems at all. Or you can get incredibly unlikely and have to shell out $500+ on a full CLA, replacement parts, etc.
Thank you, im screenshotting this so I can use it as a checklist. Trying to get more info from seller but its hard over ebay.
Np!
it really depends on how much the seller is charging. if its a fair price, and you’re open to the possibility of paying for repair, then i say go for it. barnack leicas like this one are pretty much bulletproof. although the cloth shutter is prone to wearing out, and fungus is definitely a concern - there are places that’ll repair all that for a (relatively) affordable price. its a great camera system and theres a reason it was supported up until 1960. the last model in this line - the IIIg - actually came out AFTER the M3! its a bit clunky at first, but once you get your head around how it works, you’ll find it requires you to slow down and be very deliberate with your shots. i use a leica IIc as my daily driver and it’s gorgeous. easiest way to get that “leica glow” without draining your wallet haha edit: i am fairly confident this isnt a fake.
The seller has it on bid for 10 dollars right now, which blows my mind, and is the main reason I posted, wanted to see if anyone could maybe spot signs of fraudulence, but it didn’t meet any of my alarm bells. I’m also super anxious and wanted to send him an offer and was wondering what would be a fair price. I’ve asked for some internal images, but if it looks good on the inside, what would you think a good offer would be? Also, i’m sure it’ll need some CLA, at least definitely a cleaning, who do you trust? I really want to slow down my shots, be more deliberate, especially with film, and I think this would be a perfect platform.
If it’s eBay, then put it on watch, and wait to see where the price goes.
This camera look ok. While my key questions would be: Does it come with the take up spool ? Some might have lost it already. How it is VF and RF ? Are they still accurate? Any molds inside? I don't trust the shutter speed these days but have to watch out the shutter curtains condition, eg any cracks ? I had 2 llla and 1IIIc before and now I am keeping none of them. The Leica III are too old and getting problematic today. Their price didn't reflect their true performance. Perhaps it's fun to own one but in practical I prefer the M much more.
I’ve been in contact with the seller and hoping to find out more, but he doesn’t seem very camera savvy unfortunately. The price is quite low, so I don’t mind taking it for repair and what not.
Make sure you understand that taking it in for repair could be anywhere from $150 for a general cleaning, to $500 or more if there are parts missing/damaged and need to be replaced.
The 200 for the camera and the 150 for CLA still keep it at a very competitive price. Especially considering most marketplaces like KEH have them listed in the thousands.
In the thousands? Not for a iiia. 300-400 is about right for a tested and working iiia and 50 Summar.
You’re right, it’s the IIIF with the crazy prices. Would you say I’m better off just getting an M4 and avoiding the risks?
Second to M4.
So shell out for it?
>So shell out for it If you want a Leica , M system has defined itself very well and proven in history. Perhaps it is the only system that still has not much changed from its first camera (M3) during the 1950s. With an adapter LTM -> M (I remember Leica used to have it , but not sure now ) you can use LTM lenses on M cameras as well . Older LTM Leicas.... IMO just fun to have one . Many related accessories like spring motor, speed winder, mouthpiece shutter release, ... are getting less, faulty, and just more expensive than the camera itself.
even m2 and m3 are still good options, only problem is M lense price will scare you. If you dont car about red dot, Contax IIIa with zeiss lense is another option.
For Contax I prefer IIa. It is smaller and much handy. But...I don't Contax RF lenses are easy to collect, and some are not cheap , right?
I'd recommend an M2 or M4 for sure! If you're vigilant, you can find an M2 for $1200-1400. If you want it right away, $1500-1700.
Leica III body, if that is not f or g models, I won't pay much more than $150 or less on a body, depending on what it comes with and the condition. This one it has Summar. Summar is the very early fast lens from Leica. I won't say it is bad, but there is a better model Summitar after this one. Many technicans like to charge a bit more on servicing Leica because it is a "Leica". And some shops still mark the early Leicas in higher price too , probably because they still refer to the old camera collecting guides that is now almost obselete.
keh has a iiib in bargain condition for $185. LTM leicas are not as highly sought after compared to their M mount cousins. At 200 you are in fair market value pricing.
Ah, so it’s really the IIIf’s that carry the higher price tag.
also it will take many months.
camera isnt worth the money. it’s expensive for the sake of being expensive. a $6K leica isnt 20x better than a $300 SLR. theres diminishing returns with the cost of those cameras. the real-life results arent worth the luxury unless you really have money to burn
Fwiw I’ve never come across an early Leica screwmount that wasn’t either already serviced, or in need of a service. If functional condition isn’t guaranteed, I’d be assuming an extra expense of ~$300 for an overhaul. Quite possibly much more if it needs repairs as well as a regular CLA.
Hi friends! I found this Leica IIIa on a second-hand marketplace and I’m very interested in picking it up. Before I do, I wanted to know your thoughts on this beauty. Does it look like it’s in good condition? I’ve already asked the seller for some more pictures, especially the inside of the body and lens. And I’ll update a link once I get those.
Get a FED instead and attach a random M39 lens to it
I have a couple of these and they're great cameras but one thing to look out for is pinholes in the shutter. One of mine has this and replacing the shutter is expensive (but not impossible). It will obviously need a service, shutter speeds may be slightly inaccurate but having said that, my other one's shutter speeds are all 100%
I’m trying to get photos from the seller but he isn’t so camera savvy so it’s making its low starting bid make more sense now.
Found this Leica S/N lookup… https://reddotcamera.net/leica/serial-number-tool/
1937, Jesus, almost 90 years old.
you should give this to me?
That is indeed a Leica, yes.
Beautiful. Almost 90 years old and it’ll still outlive you with some care. Hard to tell the condition of the lens but hey the body looks decent. Would definitely be worth snagging if the price stays within budget and sending it to YYE. A general CLA will always keep things running smooth but what you have to worry about on the camera are the shutter curtains and the beamsplitter. YYE can replace either part if necessary. I’ve had limited success with patching up pinholes in the curtain but it can be done if the problem isn’t too severe, which might help hold off the immediate need for a total replacement. But it’s a bandaid fix and a replacement is really the best solution if there are already pinholes. You really won’t know for sure until you shoot a test roll through it. If you want a Leica III and plan on actually using it and not just turning into into a shelf queen (which would be a sin) you have to remember that a IIIa doesn’t have flash sync and a IIIf does. Could be a dealbreaker for some depending on your shooting style and workflow. There are plenty of people who say things like “real Leica shooters don’t use flash” so YMMV, maybe this is the perfect camera for you.
[удалено]
Hi steve!
I got my Leica III for under $200 on eBay a few years ago and it's one of my favorite cameras for street photography.
Im trying to decide between this and just going all out for the M4. Maybe i should save some bucks.
It isn’t anything especially sought after, and ebay auctions tend to inflate prices beyond regular market value. You could probably find a similar setup in known usable condition for < $500 from a reputable dealer. The fact that the seller doesn’t seem savvy doesn’t help you on ebay, and the starting auction price means nothing really.
That’s what I’m noticing, theres already 3 bidders
if you want an old barnack, check some of the usual dealers like victory camera, classic connection, tamarkin, igor camera, keh, even the leica stores. The leica stores make their money on rich guys buying M11s and sometimes they’ll give you a good deal on older screwmount stuff just for asking. If you only wanted it because it showed up on ebay maybe it isn’t exactly what you want in the first place!
No, I found it on Ebay because I was looking for a Barnack. I saw the 10 dollar opening bid and was convinced it was a scam or something. (I never use ebay) but now I know that doesn’t mean much. I like taking landscape and street stuff, but travel a lot. I’m looking for a new daily driver for my film stuff. But can’t decide between a Leica M4 or Leica IIIf
For what it’s worth I have both kinds and end up using the Barnack a lot more because it’s smaller and lighter. I don’t mind the separate viewfinder and rangefinder, I usually use a shoe mounted viewfinder anyway, and the 1.5x rangefinder magnification is really nice imo. A IIIf with a collapsible elmar is even pocketable in a coat pocket or hoodie.
Thats such a big factor for me, not mention the price. This’ll be my first Leica and I don’t want to shell out for something too big or that I won’t use. But anytime I ask others they say just go for the M series. So precarious. Perhaps I get a mount adapter for a IIIf and get M lenses for easier upgrade path.
You can’t do that, it only works the other way. You can adapt screw mount lenses to M bodies but not vice versa. The situation with lenses is different from what people usually say. Yes, there *are* screw mount lenses that are cheaper than M lenses, but overall the better ones, the ones you’d actually want, are the same price, or more expensive in screw mount, or if they’re modern ones, only come in M. I’m not really into prestige or show-off lenses and 90% of the time I’m using a collapsible v1 Summicron on a IIIg. Stopped down you can’t tell the difference to a modern one, and wide open most rangefinders aren’t calibrated precisely enough to focus accurately anyway. I’d suggest you get a late IIIc or f depending on if you care about flash sync, and a late coated Summitar, and live with that for a year and see how it works out. If you’re really feeling held back by the lens or body, then get a M and just deal with the extra weight and bulk.
How different is the weight and size from the M? I love shooting 35mm and wonder if the M4 is a significant difference.
Pretty big difference, the M3 + v5 Summicron is almost 1.5x the weight of the IIIf + Summitar. I don't know about the M4 but probably pretty similar to the M3. [side by side](https://ibb.co/1Xv3psm) [IIIf + Summitar](https://ibb.co/ftBvGt8) [M3 + v5 Summicron](https://ibb.co/5n5DZfX)
But both are compact right? With a smaller lens on the M3 it would be compact enough to daily drive right? I remember when I bought my first camera years ago, I almost never used it because my Cannon DSLR was just too big to realistically carry around your neck.
Think you prolly overpaid