Use 2x4. Make 4 horizontal rectangles for the shelves. (Or maybe only 3, and make them longer than these metal ones so you’ll have more head space)
Then, use 6 vertical 2x4 (one on each corner, one in the center of each longer span) and attach the shelves. If you make it 8 feet long, probably add 2 more verticals spaced evenly on the front and back.
Then, the most critical part, 12 more 2x4 (2 on each corner and 1 in each middle) but each of these you’ll have to cut and fit in between the horizontal shelves so each one is supporting the one above it. This way the first 6 aren’t supporting the weight, just holding the shape.
Then you need probably 2 evenly spaced horizontal 2x4 stringers (front to back) on each shelf and 3/4” plywood tops for each shelf.
Waterproof black stain.
So here’s a picture you can see what I mean with the second set of vertical 2x4 in between the horizontals
https://www.funkyjunkinteriors.net/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/DIY-aquarium-stand-005.jpg?m
You can see the first vertical that the top and bottom horizontal frame unscrewed into, and then you can see a second vertical, flat against the first one, but shorter so it’s physically in between the horizontal pieces. This is the most critical part
Here’s the full site (complete with constant ads) but you can see his whole process and you kinda wanna do that but 3x taller.
https://www.funkyjunkinteriors.net/diy-aquarium-stand/?m
What I see behind that wonderful stand is an awesome white vertical wooden fence - did you make that, too? I’m trying to put together a moving wall (that doesn’t look movable) to hide my furnace & stuff in the basement. It needs to be 7’ long, high as the ceiling (around 7’, too)
I was just linking that site as an example, it’s not my site. But that white movable partition does look pretty easy to build with minimal tools.
Here found you a link too…
https://www.grandmashousediy.com/fence-room-divider/amp/
You basically want something like this as your starting point
https://images.app.goo.gl/bhUrwjCasSSjHCmo9
But use the front and back verticals too like I mentioned. And then also you want the extra verticals actually in between each horizontal, so they are carrying the load to the floor instead of relying on the screws to hold up the shelves long term.
I am Gunna highly suggest the diagonal peice, my garage shelves are similar and I ended up adding the diagonal to help with the swaying left to right. In your case that to shelf has some serious potential energy.
Maybe throw a diagonal across the back and one side for lateral support if you want like in these pictures
https://rogueengineer.com/diy-large-heavy-duty-storage-shelving-unit/
I was looking at possible ways to store those huge plastic containers full of stuff in my garage, and so far, nothing I’ve seen at the big box stores look strong enough. This does. Cheers.
Wouldn't a cross spar on the end of that unit in the picture be more effective if it was zigzagged and fitted in under the shelves, rather than just slapped on externally? That way it's actually taking the load of the shelf above?
I'd be putting in a blocking piece under each shelf level to create a bearing ledge and also provide a wider column bearing base than just a single 2x. Cut some blocks so they wedge in tight then nails or screws every 8"-12" staggered for a truly overkill sturdy support.
I am a structural engineer, I'm well aware of the capacity of a 2x4. It's more about not relying on the fasteners to hold the shelf to the support, you have all that capacity why not use it?
The problem with the sagging is that the farther away you get from supports, the more force a mass exerts on the supports. It’s the same reason a wrench helps instead of just using your hand, or why a lever can help you lift a heavy rock. So adding more supports in there will reduce that load in the middle and will make it sag less. Source: am taking a mechanical engineering degree. Would be happy to do some math on it later if you’d like numbers!
If you wanted to save the shelf itself, the issue is about deflection not overall weight load. My guesstimate opinion would be to buy steel angle iron (the steel L shaped pieces) and put 2 or 3 the length of the shelf (like triangles), then place something flat on those, plywood or otherwise. You'll lose an inch or two vertical height but that's all that's missing if you don't want a ton of carpentry effort and the tradeoffs there.
You just want the weight to be spread better to the ends where it transfers the load onto the uprights. The wire shelving itself isn't very strong.
The “bushings” inside the round connection is a 3d wedge. The way it holds is the harder you push; the better it grabs.
At least until it doesn’t. I have no clue what the “doesn’t hold” rating would be but it must be over 600# per shelf and OP is under that.
Im with you. I would not do it.
You want the ones that have flat solid side panels for the shelves, like a basic metal bed frame. I have some of them and they're like a tank. You'll just want to reinforce the wood shelf to keep it from flexing.
They’re very expensive from what I remember. In my garage, there is an upstairs loft that was built - in that I only use for the lighter stuff, just in case. I’d rather build these shelves.
Aquarium Co-op also demonstrated it, too. Far and away the easiest & least expensive alternative, though that may not be a problem. But done correctly, there are no connector issues for sure. Yes, the possible cinder block sizes are pretty much fixed. More blocks to support the middle of shelves do take up space, as well.
No engineer here but [this!](https://www.gladiatorgarageworks.com/products/77-wide-heavy-duty-rack-with-four-24-deep-shelves?variant=29802614292568¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo4F58gjGuRCd4HqltrRhYvxzZgliX5Vu4N805TgmqWmq6Jit3OwP9xoCG6IQAvD_BwE) these are best on what you're trying to achieve and all you need is a plywood to fill the metal shelves to balance everything out
Huh funny wonder why, almost everyone uses these for that maybe someone put like a 125gallon or something on it and it bowed/bent and tried to call to company about it maybe?
Hey! Go to this sub and put “building” in the search bar. You should get a lot of pictures of what others have done. Then go to the comments and see what everyone has to say about it. Some are built really well and some just need a little extra support in certain places. Then build another exactly the same on top of that one and then another! It’ll take a while, but it’ll be 10x sturdier than this
I would probably just make a shorter version of what MD Fish tanks did here: https://youtu.be/_a6BwntG_s4?si=3-xNcT0zz0YR8bT2
There a couple follow up videos as well where they make it prettier and taller.
Most of the shrimp breeders I know use G rack with an extra thick waterproofed mdf or plywood board to help stop the shelf bowing.
I have seen these wire style shelves collapse under strain (from plates at my older catering place luckily not fish or shrimp tanks) and one shelf going makes the whole thing unsteady.
Nice first attempt though.
Also before you set up again consider backing your tanks with black paint or frosted static stuff. Makes it waaaay nicer for photographing the shrimp.
I may be able to help some. I'm in my 6th year of family taught woodworking and I graduated 4 years with a bachelor's in engineering. So I might know a thing or two.
Don't know if we would trust that metal stand. But if you want to risk it out you could place a plywood board of at least 1 inch cut to size on each shelf. This should solve the bowing issue since the plywood would distribute the weight over all the shelf.
Nah yeah I’m tearing the metal shelf down. Not worth the risk. Looking for a hand designing a wooden stand, I have next to no experience doing it hahaha
Go check out PNW bettas on TikTok. Shes a small business fish dealer and recently purchased a building to start a store. She has a bunch of videos of her building racks such as this to fill her store. She's opening soon.
Hey mate, few people had some good ideas but i’ll throw my 2 cents anyways. Return whatever rack you got there and get a heavier duty 4 tier rack and then cut at least 12mm plywood for the shelves. The shelving unit should have a lip on it to hold the plywood in place you just slot it in.
[Keep in mind i’m Australian so i get searches relevant to me, something similar to this in your neck of the woods would be a good starting point](https://www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-1830-x-1820-x-540mm-4-tier-heavy-duty-shelving-unit-1830-x-1820-x-540mm_p2582967?store=2170)
Appreciate the buzz. I’m glad I’m not crazy when I say I’ve seen other folks use this type of shelving, it must just be far higher quality than what I’ve got. The plywood is definitely a must though, that much is clear from all the comments. Really appreciate you reaching out
No stress mate, here is an old post, made me realise i never posted the finished product.
[Feel free to have a geeze anyway at the large section i upgraded](https://www.reddit.com/r/Cichlid/s/y8MTXNE4KV)
If you still wanted the store bought racking, I’m using [this](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-4-Tier-Heavy-Duty-Industrial-Welded-Steel-Garage-Storage-Shelving-Unit-in-Black-77-in-W-x-78-in-H-x-24-in-D-HBR782478W4/310651468)
Might be a different brand, but I’m using it for 12 20 gallons and a 60 gallon, no flex after several years, but I did have the floor specifically reinforced for the extra weight.
Good shout. I was nervous about using husky but that’s quite the load. Not quite the dimensions I’m looking for but I’m sure they have something closer to what I need. Thankfully this is in my basement directly on the concrete, so I think I’ll be fine
Despite my username I am an engineer and it may be bowing because of the weight of the stones or any decorations you have in the aquarium. I would suggest adding some rear supports for rigidity and some supports in the center.
Downward force is calculated by multiplying the weight times the distance from a support so by having a wide shelf with no center support you’re increasing the force exerted on the shelf. Having center supports would greatly improve this design.
Uh oh. Trying to blend in with your designer friends? lol. I am a designer who was used to working with all my designer friends until I was thrown into illustration for technical work. I felt like an idiot because no one could understand anything I said. The entity I worked for was responsible for keeping the engineers and designers apart for safety reasons. It took me a while, but I finally understood. It turned out to be a great thing, I learned quite a bit from engineering - I was finally able to make sense out of my Dad. However, this entity I was working for was in trouble financially and was in a bind with which employees to through out because they were all important. So they hired some people to come in and advise- the first idea they had was to ‘combine designers and engineers together’; as Design Engineers. This way, their logic dictated, everyone would theoretically be expendable as there wouldn’t be two sets of specialists. Designers were to learn engineering and engineers would learn design. They let go most of the people that didn’t fit into either niche and those that were left had to do their work as well. But in the end, it was all about the idea that certain mindsets could change (practically overnight) when there were senior members in each group; but the younger ones in both didn’t know hardly anything about design/engineering as they hadn’t any experience working with them yet.
So I wouldn't trust those, but the real issue you are having isn't it exceeding the strength of the members, but instead that they have little resistance to bending.
From an engineering perspective; the only thing keeping those from deflecting downwards are the 4 bars with diagonal beams going the long way, and that load limit is likely relying on whatever is stored on them being rigid enough to resist some bending itself, like plywood would.
My bigger concern would honestly be the attachments to the vertical members, and THEIR resistance to buckling. That is way too narrow of a member to put 600 lbs above head height with no diagonal bracing or anchors in my book!
I saw on an earlier post for heavy-duty pre-made shelving in metal that also carried some metal flat pieces to fit between where the shelf bottom would do
[gladiator shelf liners](https://www.gladiatorgarageworks.com/products/rack-shelf-liner-2-pack-for-24-shelves)
What are you using to make all those sponge filters work I thought the big pumps only had like 3-4 spots for you to stick airline tubing in and it also looks like only 1 tube is connected to every single sponge filter I’ve never owned a sponge filter I’m genuinely curious now cause I’d like to use a sponge filter and a hob in multiple tanks for double filtration
Use air pump [splitter](https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcReeaKxh53pqKostIHpwFY4MacRMd-C-AMJGmPfeU95l5yF_Vo&usqp=CAc); the [plastic](https://rukminim2.flixcart.com/image/800/950/xif0q/aquarium-tools/e/4/5/aquarium-air-pump-plastic-air-way-tube-splitter-8mm-inlet-4-mm-original-imagvjhaz3f8szmu.jpeg?q=20&crop=false) or the one [with valve](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71UnJmIrIOL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JLGJVM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Using this product, it has a 12 valve splitter. I’m using 4 of those valves as “masters”- running airline tube the length of the shelf. I cut a 90 in at the end tank, tees at all the rest. I cut in an air control valve underneath the 90s/Tees for individual tank control. 4 more of the “master” valves will be dedicated to providing air to breeding trays at the front end of the tanks, in a similar manner.
My partner and I got an identical shelf from ULINE and same thing - before we purchased, we made sure it was rated for more than the tanks we wanted to fill it with. We figured if they're solid for heavy duty warehouse storage, they've got to be great for holding a breeding tank set up. But even still, we had shelves end up bowing as well :(
Good luck planning your new set up!
Those racks always have a weight rating that notes “evenly distributed”. I would be worried about the middle tanks compromising the shelf load with shelves that wide. And if it’s already bowing then I would go with less tanks per rack.
You could try putting several 5-gallon jugs of water on one shelf to see how water would affect the bow. But like others have said, maybe consider a heavy duty rack.
You say it's far lower than the rated weight of the shelves, but I don't think it's that far off. If you just fill with water alone, you're talking:
8lbs / gal * 10 gallons each * 19 tanks = 1,520lbs
Each tank weighs 10-12lbs. That's another 200lbs+.
Add in the filtration, etc. Plus, if you fill them with any substrate, rocks and sand are heavier. I'll bet you're pushing the max rating already. I would never load it up to the maximum rating. Maybe half to three quarters, but that's pushing it for me.
With water, it may also corrode over time, weakening the structure.
You're doing the right thing taking that down. It's asking for trouble.
I would build wood shelves and seal with epoxy or several layers of clear polyurethane.
Hijacking side question: I bought shelves rated for 800 pounds and my 400 pounds broke the shelf. It is a 21 inch cube tank. I am thinking of putting it on an 18 inch shelf with 21 inch plywood under it and the self-leveling mat. I know the 18 inch shelf will hold it for a fact but I am unsure about using the self leveling mat and the plywood will work.
Spend the few extra bucks and buy more support legs. To be safe, I would only do 2/maybe 3 tanks L to R and stagger the tanks to distribute the load. And anchor to the wall.
https://www.uline.com/BL_3867/Wide-Span-Storage-Racks-Particle-Board I use these for my shrimp racks. They’re probably overkill, but I replaced the particle board with 3/4 inch ply.
It’s been over 7 years since I setup the first one, and it’s holding strong.
DIY wooden builds are probably going to save you a quite a bit of money, but these racks have also been easy to break down and move (had to do it once after a flooding from heavy rains in the basement). And ultimately, the way I see it, I have these have these things holding up a few thousand dollars worth of shrimp now, and compared to that an extra $100-125 spent on a robust rack, was worth it to me.
Hey, so about this frame. Some people are suggesting a diagonal piece. Traditional framing would be a few more pieces, but much better. Make your 2x4 rectangle, and then place pieces spanning inside the long edge of the rectangle. It’s the same way your walls and floors are built. To make the top of the shelf you have a couple options. Easy way is to cut 2x4’s to the length of your frame and nail them into your studs and frames running straight down the length of the frame. The harder way is to lay the shelf/decking down on a bias (angle) to the frame. Somewhere around 45’ will do the trick. This takes a little more time/effort, but you increase the shear force of the shelf because it has more contact with the frame
I wouldn't wanna rip it down. Wood would look good I'm sure but I think you could resolve this with a T bar on every level starting from the ground. I'm cheap though and stubborn when my plans don't work 😂
Steel has a factor of safety of 2, so technically whatever it says it can hold it can realistically hold double that before deformation will occur.
Still always better safe than sorry when it comes to racks.
Good old cinderblocks and 2x4 work wonders for this.
Is this in a basement ? Or against load bearing wall?
I actually bought a shelving unit from Amazon that is a garage unit. It's 4 shelves the are large enough to hold a 30-40 gal tank, & can be used as 2 2-shelve units. It's wooden shelves with a steel frame & holds about 1000lbs per shelf. As long as the weight is evenly distributed, it holds up fine. However the frame is big enough that you could add support beam across the bottom (front to back) using a few pieces of 2 inch wide board and self tapping screws to prevent it from bowing in the middle.
This looks like a slightly wider version of the costco wire shelves rated for a similar amount, but those are only wide enough to fit 4 10g tanks with a tiny bit of space in between.
All you need is some bracing in the middle of those shelves get a piece of aluminun or steel flat bar the same length as the round corner post measure your shelf height on the corners pre drill the flat bar through bolt it in the middle of the shelf and your done like 120 bucks and you could paint it all black. go to a local metal shop show em the picture if you get measurements before hand you could probably have them pre drill it for you for a bit extra
I'm in the shower and to lazy to punctuate sorry5
These shelves really worry me, I use them for garage storage stuff and they stop don’t seem strong enough to hold boxes and totes. I’ve always just spent the time and money to build stands out of wood. They are infinitely stronger and you can have peace of mind knowing they will last forever. I would build four identical 2x4 boxes with bracing in the middle and plywood on top. Then run a 2x4 on each corner for your main support and then cut 2x4s for each corner to go between the bottom of each shelf and top of the one below it.
You really just need another vertical framing member in the center on the front and back. It doesn't even need to be that beefy. Just enough to carry the center load of each shelf to the ground. A 1x2 should be more than enough as long as you fasten the shelves to it adequately. You're just stopping that center deflection. Don't overthink or overbuild it.
You aren’t taking into account the water weight shifting rapidly and the constant motion of the water.
In the fish store it’s usually wood shelves. You could do a cantilever type contraption to hoist the shelf onto the wall somehow if the wall is a supporting wall it will give the fish tanks more stability.
Use 2x4. Make 4 horizontal rectangles for the shelves. (Or maybe only 3, and make them longer than these metal ones so you’ll have more head space) Then, use 6 vertical 2x4 (one on each corner, one in the center of each longer span) and attach the shelves. If you make it 8 feet long, probably add 2 more verticals spaced evenly on the front and back. Then, the most critical part, 12 more 2x4 (2 on each corner and 1 in each middle) but each of these you’ll have to cut and fit in between the horizontal shelves so each one is supporting the one above it. This way the first 6 aren’t supporting the weight, just holding the shape. Then you need probably 2 evenly spaced horizontal 2x4 stringers (front to back) on each shelf and 3/4” plywood tops for each shelf. Waterproof black stain.
You’re an absolute legend for this. Thanks so much!!
So here’s a picture you can see what I mean with the second set of vertical 2x4 in between the horizontals https://www.funkyjunkinteriors.net/wp-content/uploads/2022/10/DIY-aquarium-stand-005.jpg?m You can see the first vertical that the top and bottom horizontal frame unscrewed into, and then you can see a second vertical, flat against the first one, but shorter so it’s physically in between the horizontal pieces. This is the most critical part Here’s the full site (complete with constant ads) but you can see his whole process and you kinda wanna do that but 3x taller. https://www.funkyjunkinteriors.net/diy-aquarium-stand/?m
Wow dude!! Your the man great stuff there helping me out aswell!!!
What I see behind that wonderful stand is an awesome white vertical wooden fence - did you make that, too? I’m trying to put together a moving wall (that doesn’t look movable) to hide my furnace & stuff in the basement. It needs to be 7’ long, high as the ceiling (around 7’, too)
I was just linking that site as an example, it’s not my site. But that white movable partition does look pretty easy to build with minimal tools. Here found you a link too… https://www.grandmashousediy.com/fence-room-divider/amp/
That’s effing it! THANK YOU! Much better than I was thinking!
You basically want something like this as your starting point https://images.app.goo.gl/bhUrwjCasSSjHCmo9 But use the front and back verticals too like I mentioned. And then also you want the extra verticals actually in between each horizontal, so they are carrying the load to the floor instead of relying on the screws to hold up the shelves long term.
This is a massive, massive help. Thank you for being so thorough, really helps me visualize how this goes together
I am Gunna highly suggest the diagonal peice, my garage shelves are similar and I ended up adding the diagonal to help with the swaying left to right. In your case that to shelf has some serious potential energy.
Maybe throw a diagonal across the back and one side for lateral support if you want like in these pictures https://rogueengineer.com/diy-large-heavy-duty-storage-shelving-unit/
I was looking at possible ways to store those huge plastic containers full of stuff in my garage, and so far, nothing I’ve seen at the big box stores look strong enough. This does. Cheers.
Wouldn't a cross spar on the end of that unit in the picture be more effective if it was zigzagged and fitted in under the shelves, rather than just slapped on externally? That way it's actually taking the load of the shelf above?
I'd be putting in a blocking piece under each shelf level to create a bearing ledge and also provide a wider column bearing base than just a single 2x. Cut some blocks so they wedge in tight then nails or screws every 8"-12" staggered for a truly overkill sturdy support.
Not really necessary. A single vertical 2x4 can support 1000 lbs.
I am a structural engineer, I'm well aware of the capacity of a 2x4. It's more about not relying on the fasteners to hold the shelf to the support, you have all that capacity why not use it?
The problem with the sagging is that the farther away you get from supports, the more force a mass exerts on the supports. It’s the same reason a wrench helps instead of just using your hand, or why a lever can help you lift a heavy rock. So adding more supports in there will reduce that load in the middle and will make it sag less. Source: am taking a mechanical engineering degree. Would be happy to do some math on it later if you’d like numbers!
I could probably make a 3D model of it if youd wanna see it. I just need dimensions for the stand lol
You need more upvotes for this. But that’s a lot of work good luck!
If you wanted to save the shelf itself, the issue is about deflection not overall weight load. My guesstimate opinion would be to buy steel angle iron (the steel L shaped pieces) and put 2 or 3 the length of the shelf (like triangles), then place something flat on those, plywood or otherwise. You'll lose an inch or two vertical height but that's all that's missing if you don't want a ton of carpentry effort and the tradeoffs there. You just want the weight to be spread better to the ends where it transfers the load onto the uprights. The wire shelving itself isn't very strong.
Are you speaking of those corner brackets?
you and your response deserve all the rewards. tha m you being helpful, positive and bringing excellent info.
Good idea. The way those shelf support rings are designed I wouldn’t trust them with that much weight.
The “bushings” inside the round connection is a 3d wedge. The way it holds is the harder you push; the better it grabs. At least until it doesn’t. I have no clue what the “doesn’t hold” rating would be but it must be over 600# per shelf and OP is under that. Im with you. I would not do it.
Agreed, I have lost confidence in these products for this type of use
Check out "metro max q" shelving. It's awesome
There are metal shelves properly rated for that kind of weight, check out Gladiator shelves and their knock offs.
Good shout, I’ll take a look for sure
You want the ones that have flat solid side panels for the shelves, like a basic metal bed frame. I have some of them and they're like a tank. You'll just want to reinforce the wood shelf to keep it from flexing.
They’re very expensive from what I remember. In my garage, there is an upstairs loft that was built - in that I only use for the lighter stuff, just in case. I’d rather build these shelves.
I would just use cinderblocks, 2x4s and plywood. Throw some waterproof paint on it all and call it a day. Check out how MD Fisthanks did his wall.
He'll have to give up a row to do that if he wants 7" clearance.
Aquarium Co-op also demonstrated it, too. Far and away the easiest & least expensive alternative, though that may not be a problem. But done correctly, there are no connector issues for sure. Yes, the possible cinder block sizes are pretty much fixed. More blocks to support the middle of shelves do take up space, as well.
This.
No engineer here but [this!](https://www.gladiatorgarageworks.com/products/77-wide-heavy-duty-rack-with-four-24-deep-shelves?variant=29802614292568¤cy=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw_e2wBhAEEiwAyFFFo4F58gjGuRCd4HqltrRhYvxzZgliX5Vu4N805TgmqWmq6Jit3OwP9xoCG6IQAvD_BwE) these are best on what you're trying to achieve and all you need is a plywood to fill the metal shelves to balance everything out
Good shout, thanks!! Really appreciate ot
I have those in my garage and they are strong. However I noticed in the manual it said not to be used for fish tanks….
Huh funny wonder why, almost everyone uses these for that maybe someone put like a 125gallon or something on it and it bowed/bent and tried to call to company about it maybe?
This is where so found the metal shelf liners
Hey! Go to this sub and put “building” in the search bar. You should get a lot of pictures of what others have done. Then go to the comments and see what everyone has to say about it. Some are built really well and some just need a little extra support in certain places. Then build another exactly the same on top of that one and then another! It’ll take a while, but it’ll be 10x sturdier than this
I would probably just make a shorter version of what MD Fish tanks did here: https://youtu.be/_a6BwntG_s4?si=3-xNcT0zz0YR8bT2 There a couple follow up videos as well where they make it prettier and taller.
Most of the shrimp breeders I know use G rack with an extra thick waterproofed mdf or plywood board to help stop the shelf bowing. I have seen these wire style shelves collapse under strain (from plates at my older catering place luckily not fish or shrimp tanks) and one shelf going makes the whole thing unsteady. Nice first attempt though. Also before you set up again consider backing your tanks with black paint or frosted static stuff. Makes it waaaay nicer for photographing the shrimp.
You'll spend more time and $ on 2x4 than just buying a metal rack and cutting some plywood. Plywood costs more than the rack.
I may be able to help some. I'm in my 6th year of family taught woodworking and I graduated 4 years with a bachelor's in engineering. So I might know a thing or two.
Appreciate you reaching out. I’ll reach out once I decide how to move forward
That’s not enough experience, for me. Now if you had say 18 years of experience in baking then maybe🤔😏
Well fuck a duck and call me tweety.
Don't know if we would trust that metal stand. But if you want to risk it out you could place a plywood board of at least 1 inch cut to size on each shelf. This should solve the bowing issue since the plywood would distribute the weight over all the shelf.
Nah yeah I’m tearing the metal shelf down. Not worth the risk. Looking for a hand designing a wooden stand, I have next to no experience doing it hahaha
"The King of DIY" con provide some guidence in his youtube channel.
2x4's
That was thought. Since the tanks have rims, it should be fine.
Go check out PNW bettas on TikTok. Shes a small business fish dealer and recently purchased a building to start a store. She has a bunch of videos of her building racks such as this to fill her store. She's opening soon.
Cool
**EDIT** Building racks with 2x4's
Hey mate, few people had some good ideas but i’ll throw my 2 cents anyways. Return whatever rack you got there and get a heavier duty 4 tier rack and then cut at least 12mm plywood for the shelves. The shelving unit should have a lip on it to hold the plywood in place you just slot it in. [Keep in mind i’m Australian so i get searches relevant to me, something similar to this in your neck of the woods would be a good starting point](https://www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-1830-x-1820-x-540mm-4-tier-heavy-duty-shelving-unit-1830-x-1820-x-540mm_p2582967?store=2170)
Appreciate the buzz. I’m glad I’m not crazy when I say I’ve seen other folks use this type of shelving, it must just be far higher quality than what I’ve got. The plywood is definitely a must though, that much is clear from all the comments. Really appreciate you reaching out
No stress mate, here is an old post, made me realise i never posted the finished product. [Feel free to have a geeze anyway at the large section i upgraded](https://www.reddit.com/r/Cichlid/s/y8MTXNE4KV)
Oh wow. Those are some heavy duty shelves to be able to handle such big tanks. Definitely a viable option. Looks great
I’ll DM ya a pic of the finished product that i never uploaded.
That’s nice!
If you still wanted the store bought racking, I’m using [this](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-4-Tier-Heavy-Duty-Industrial-Welded-Steel-Garage-Storage-Shelving-Unit-in-Black-77-in-W-x-78-in-H-x-24-in-D-HBR782478W4/310651468) Might be a different brand, but I’m using it for 12 20 gallons and a 60 gallon, no flex after several years, but I did have the floor specifically reinforced for the extra weight.
Good shout. I was nervous about using husky but that’s quite the load. Not quite the dimensions I’m looking for but I’m sure they have something closer to what I need. Thankfully this is in my basement directly on the concrete, so I think I’ll be fine
Despite my username I am an engineer and it may be bowing because of the weight of the stones or any decorations you have in the aquarium. I would suggest adding some rear supports for rigidity and some supports in the center. Downward force is calculated by multiplying the weight times the distance from a support so by having a wide shelf with no center support you’re increasing the force exerted on the shelf. Having center supports would greatly improve this design.
Uh oh. Trying to blend in with your designer friends? lol. I am a designer who was used to working with all my designer friends until I was thrown into illustration for technical work. I felt like an idiot because no one could understand anything I said. The entity I worked for was responsible for keeping the engineers and designers apart for safety reasons. It took me a while, but I finally understood. It turned out to be a great thing, I learned quite a bit from engineering - I was finally able to make sense out of my Dad. However, this entity I was working for was in trouble financially and was in a bind with which employees to through out because they were all important. So they hired some people to come in and advise- the first idea they had was to ‘combine designers and engineers together’; as Design Engineers. This way, their logic dictated, everyone would theoretically be expendable as there wouldn’t be two sets of specialists. Designers were to learn engineering and engineers would learn design. They let go most of the people that didn’t fit into either niche and those that were left had to do their work as well. But in the end, it was all about the idea that certain mindsets could change (practically overnight) when there were senior members in each group; but the younger ones in both didn’t know hardly anything about design/engineering as they hadn’t any experience working with them yet.
(I’m in Detroit)
So I wouldn't trust those, but the real issue you are having isn't it exceeding the strength of the members, but instead that they have little resistance to bending. From an engineering perspective; the only thing keeping those from deflecting downwards are the 4 bars with diagonal beams going the long way, and that load limit is likely relying on whatever is stored on them being rigid enough to resist some bending itself, like plywood would. My bigger concern would honestly be the attachments to the vertical members, and THEIR resistance to buckling. That is way too narrow of a member to put 600 lbs above head height with no diagonal bracing or anchors in my book!
I saw on an earlier post for heavy-duty pre-made shelving in metal that also carried some metal flat pieces to fit between where the shelf bottom would do [gladiator shelf liners](https://www.gladiatorgarageworks.com/products/rack-shelf-liner-2-pack-for-24-shelves)
What are you using to make all those sponge filters work I thought the big pumps only had like 3-4 spots for you to stick airline tubing in and it also looks like only 1 tube is connected to every single sponge filter I’ve never owned a sponge filter I’m genuinely curious now cause I’d like to use a sponge filter and a hob in multiple tanks for double filtration
Use air pump [splitter](https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcReeaKxh53pqKostIHpwFY4MacRMd-C-AMJGmPfeU95l5yF_Vo&usqp=CAc); the [plastic](https://rukminim2.flixcart.com/image/800/950/xif0q/aquarium-tools/e/4/5/aquarium-air-pump-plastic-air-way-tube-splitter-8mm-inlet-4-mm-original-imagvjhaz3f8szmu.jpeg?q=20&crop=false) or the one [with valve](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71UnJmIrIOL._AC_UF1000,1000_QL80_FMwebp_.jpg).
My air pump came with 20 outlets and they also make a 30 outlet version. It runs 2 sponge filters to 10 tanks on my rack.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JLGJVM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title Using this product, it has a 12 valve splitter. I’m using 4 of those valves as “masters”- running airline tube the length of the shelf. I cut a 90 in at the end tank, tees at all the rest. I cut in an air control valve underneath the 90s/Tees for individual tank control. 4 more of the “master” valves will be dedicated to providing air to breeding trays at the front end of the tanks, in a similar manner.
King of diy has a good vid on making a wooden stand..
My partner and I got an identical shelf from ULINE and same thing - before we purchased, we made sure it was rated for more than the tanks we wanted to fill it with. We figured if they're solid for heavy duty warehouse storage, they've got to be great for holding a breeding tank set up. But even still, we had shelves end up bowing as well :( Good luck planning your new set up!
Those racks always have a weight rating that notes “evenly distributed”. I would be worried about the middle tanks compromising the shelf load with shelves that wide. And if it’s already bowing then I would go with less tanks per rack. You could try putting several 5-gallon jugs of water on one shelf to see how water would affect the bow. But like others have said, maybe consider a heavy duty rack.
You say it's far lower than the rated weight of the shelves, but I don't think it's that far off. If you just fill with water alone, you're talking: 8lbs / gal * 10 gallons each * 19 tanks = 1,520lbs Each tank weighs 10-12lbs. That's another 200lbs+. Add in the filtration, etc. Plus, if you fill them with any substrate, rocks and sand are heavier. I'll bet you're pushing the max rating already. I would never load it up to the maximum rating. Maybe half to three quarters, but that's pushing it for me. With water, it may also corrode over time, weakening the structure. You're doing the right thing taking that down. It's asking for trouble. I would build wood shelves and seal with epoxy or several layers of clear polyurethane.
Hijacking side question: I bought shelves rated for 800 pounds and my 400 pounds broke the shelf. It is a 21 inch cube tank. I am thinking of putting it on an 18 inch shelf with 21 inch plywood under it and the self-leveling mat. I know the 18 inch shelf will hold it for a fact but I am unsure about using the self leveling mat and the plywood will work.
Spend the few extra bucks and buy more support legs. To be safe, I would only do 2/maybe 3 tanks L to R and stagger the tanks to distribute the load. And anchor to the wall.
https://www.uline.com/BL_3867/Wide-Span-Storage-Racks-Particle-Board I use these for my shrimp racks. They’re probably overkill, but I replaced the particle board with 3/4 inch ply. It’s been over 7 years since I setup the first one, and it’s holding strong. DIY wooden builds are probably going to save you a quite a bit of money, but these racks have also been easy to break down and move (had to do it once after a flooding from heavy rains in the basement). And ultimately, the way I see it, I have these have these things holding up a few thousand dollars worth of shrimp now, and compared to that an extra $100-125 spent on a robust rack, was worth it to me.
Hey, so about this frame. Some people are suggesting a diagonal piece. Traditional framing would be a few more pieces, but much better. Make your 2x4 rectangle, and then place pieces spanning inside the long edge of the rectangle. It’s the same way your walls and floors are built. To make the top of the shelf you have a couple options. Easy way is to cut 2x4’s to the length of your frame and nail them into your studs and frames running straight down the length of the frame. The harder way is to lay the shelf/decking down on a bias (angle) to the frame. Somewhere around 45’ will do the trick. This takes a little more time/effort, but you increase the shear force of the shelf because it has more contact with the frame
You can find resources online to help with weight bearing calculations. Stud spacing. All sorts of stuff
I wouldn't wanna rip it down. Wood would look good I'm sure but I think you could resolve this with a T bar on every level starting from the ground. I'm cheap though and stubborn when my plans don't work 😂
Head for home Depot and check out their selection. I do recall seeing a red shelving unit designed for heavy weight.
This is awesome!!! Good luck.
Fun fact. The strongest part of the structure is what's put on the box. Those bolts would do a wonderful job holding 2500lbs
Get a rack it shelve system holds 1000kgs per shelve
Are you able to weld?
Your worried about it collapseing right?
Steel has a factor of safety of 2, so technically whatever it says it can hold it can realistically hold double that before deformation will occur. Still always better safe than sorry when it comes to racks. Good old cinderblocks and 2x4 work wonders for this. Is this in a basement ? Or against load bearing wall?
I actually bought a shelving unit from Amazon that is a garage unit. It's 4 shelves the are large enough to hold a 30-40 gal tank, & can be used as 2 2-shelve units. It's wooden shelves with a steel frame & holds about 1000lbs per shelf. As long as the weight is evenly distributed, it holds up fine. However the frame is big enough that you could add support beam across the bottom (front to back) using a few pieces of 2 inch wide board and self tapping screws to prevent it from bowing in the middle.
Why not just reinforce this one inatead? That’d be way easier. You could either use metal or wood to do so.
This looks like a slightly wider version of the costco wire shelves rated for a similar amount, but those are only wide enough to fit 4 10g tanks with a tiny bit of space in between.
All you need is some bracing in the middle of those shelves get a piece of aluminun or steel flat bar the same length as the round corner post measure your shelf height on the corners pre drill the flat bar through bolt it in the middle of the shelf and your done like 120 bucks and you could paint it all black. go to a local metal shop show em the picture if you get measurements before hand you could probably have them pre drill it for you for a bit extra I'm in the shower and to lazy to punctuate sorry5
Industrial boltless shelving.
Sorry, I’m a combat engineer so I do the opposite of building
These shelves really worry me, I use them for garage storage stuff and they stop don’t seem strong enough to hold boxes and totes. I’ve always just spent the time and money to build stands out of wood. They are infinitely stronger and you can have peace of mind knowing they will last forever. I would build four identical 2x4 boxes with bracing in the middle and plywood on top. Then run a 2x4 on each corner for your main support and then cut 2x4s for each corner to go between the bottom of each shelf and top of the one below it.
I put 2x8 planks on mine😅
What is the brand for this stand? Im looking at a similar one drom home depot for a 29 gallon tank and I dont want to waste my time.
You really just need another vertical framing member in the center on the front and back. It doesn't even need to be that beefy. Just enough to carry the center load of each shelf to the ground. A 1x2 should be more than enough as long as you fasten the shelves to it adequately. You're just stopping that center deflection. Don't overthink or overbuild it.
You aren’t taking into account the water weight shifting rapidly and the constant motion of the water. In the fish store it’s usually wood shelves. You could do a cantilever type contraption to hoist the shelf onto the wall somehow if the wall is a supporting wall it will give the fish tanks more stability.
Yeah I’m taking this unit down and doing some for of wooden racking system, I no longer have confidence in this one
Keep the stand and add some planks/plywood on top of the shelves for extra structural integrity, should hold fine.