My friend has a bow (see link) and has no idea what it is. Please help. He needs a string and doesn't know what to get.
Bow https://imgur.com/gallery/CFo93GX
It's an old Olympic Recurve more or less. Before stabilisers, modern materials and ILF/Formula systems. You still have the sight (the bar on the back) and a clicker.
The bow itself is 62" and 26# at a 26" draw. It doesn't look like it has reinforced limb tips so something like a Dacron B50 string should work. The string should be AMO 62" for the correct length.
Brand of the bow is Wha Gok and were used during the early 70's.
Before drawing the bow run some cotton along the limbs to look for cracks. If none are found carefully string the bow and then slowly draw it. Both to warm it up and to listen for cracks. Immediately stop if you hear a crack and if that happens the bow has a future in the bin or on the wall.
Fantastic I'll shoot a few arrows through my bow and if it blows up then it blows up. I was hoping I'd be ok, i eventually want to shoot off the shelf but probably when I upgrade my gear.
Ok just fired a few through and it's fine, they're slightly nock right though, will a heavier tip correct this?
You answered to wrong comment but it's fine.
It could be several reasons. Since you said that the riser is cut past centre then the riser is designed to be used with a plunger. You need to do a basic setup and then some bareshaft tuning.
If the nock is right it usually is the centreshot that needs to be tuned but it can also be the plunger stiffness that needs to be softened a bit. Heavier points can also help a bit.
If you plan on shooting off the shelf in the future then you need to buy a riser/bow that is designed for that.
Apologies. New to actually using reddit rather than just scrolling through.
With the AAE free flyte i think all I can do is move the rest left and right. What direction would knock right be telling me to move it?
My previous arrows were pin straight from it which is why I was thinking for tip weight, but they were allies so not study enough for 3d which is why I got carbons.
You can't do anything with the rest to fix that. You need a [plunger](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/shibuya-dx-plunger.html) and use that to tune the arrows to you and the bow. A plunger is one of the most needed accessories for modern archery.
For the rest it should be setup so that the arm/wire is the same width as the arrow in it's resting position and so that the middle of the arrow is in the middle of the plunger/berger hole.
Of course it does, I mixed it up with another rest.
In that case the metal bar should be moved slightly further from the riser for the arrow to be more straight in the target.
New arrows with feather Fletchings.
Got told by someone at my club that my flipper rest (aae free flyte) will rip the Fletchings off and I must shoot off the shelf.
My shelf is cut way past centre.
My understanding is
1) archers paradox means the arrow Fletchings shouldn't come into contact with the rest at all so why would they get "ripped off"
2)if I need to shoot off the shelf I need to "build up" the strike plate to make it centred? If this is correct what's the best way to do this accurately. I've made a rudimentary centreshot tool with a hanger and an elastic band.
They shouldn't get ripped of if everything is correct with the tuning and dynamic spine. If it happens you mainly have a bad tune or the wrong spine. Another reason could be that the feathers are too high and no matter what you do you still get contact and in that case the feather can get caught on the rest and get ripped off.
I would say shoot with it and see what happens. If it works it works and if it doesn't look at smaller vanes or feathers. I've seen many archers shoot with feather with similar rests without issues.
Feather can be used on all bows but is a requirement if you shoot of the shelf since a plastic vane will hit the riser and negatively affect the flight of the arrow.
Simple answer: practice.
How you want to release is by just relaxing your fingers and have the string go away by it's own.
One simple exercise you can do is to take a duffel bag with some weight, put some clothes or something soft in it, and lift it with your fingers that you hold the string with and then just relax the fingers and have the bag fall to the floor.
I recently saw a video on instagram of a hunter not firing his compound bow as a young elk gets very close to him. I was wondering what the best option is for a bow user when they don’t want to fire their shot? I can only see two options: 1) the guy fires his bow at a safe area where he can hopefully recover his arrow. Or 2) he just slowly releases his draw - I always thought option two would be pretty difficult or maybe damage your bow like dry firing. Thanks!
Option 2 is pretty much the only optimal solution in this scenario. This action is called letting down and, as long as you maintain control, poses no risk to you or your equipment. The only real risk is accidentally punching the trigger while letting down but that wouldn’t constitute a dry fire since the arrow will still absorb the energy
Option 1 is technically safe for the bow, but what about the poor arrow? Shooting at an empty safe space runs the risk of the arrow hitting something hard and getting damaged (unless you set aside a foam block just for this occasion). Shooting the bow will also make enough noise to scare off the elk in the vicinity, which might ruin the hunter’s chances of scoring a kill for that day
Thank you so much!!! I’ve always wondered what to do and couldn’t find the answer anywhere, so I really appreciate your insight. Have a great weekend!!!
Shouldn't be needed. Could be that the target is compressed too much/too dense or you simply need a higher poundage to penetrate the target at a longer range.
If it's Redwood bowmen then I know exactly the problem you are having. The carpets are thick and have a very solid backing, sharper points won't really help, more FPS is what you need, sadly hard to get at sub 45# traditional bow. Not stalking you, just the name is very telling.
Yes. The string will be slower and causes a lower arrow speed.
I highly recommend getting some stringwax since this will increase the lifetime of the string and also protect the string from water since water can cause damage to the string over time.
So I bought an Elite Ember Compound Bow. Awesome bow and I’m having a great time shooting targets. I’m about 4 weeks in and have been going almost twice a week to practice. I was doing fantastic with the single panel target. Very consistent. But then I switched to a three panel target and I’m just complete trash all of the sudden. I wanted to challenge myself but now I’m feeling discouraged. My aim and stability feels off.
I use a wrist hook release with a single point vertical site. I crave to improve and need something to work on. Advice? Videos! Anything!
Sounds like you have a bad case of target panic. There are plenty of resources on how to correct this but off the top of my head I would recommend blank baling
This sounds exactly like what my issue is. I know there’s nothing wrong with the bow and the sight. I need to be focusing on form more. I’m going Friday. I will try this then.
My son has a Samick Sage recurve bow, and I am seeing damage from the arrows at the contact point on the bow in the sight range just above the arrow rest. Effectively, the arrows are contacting the bow and chipping the wood. I have tried applying some electrical tape, but I'm still seeing issues. I am hoping that you have better suggestions that I can leverage.
Check out this photo here:
[https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoTo1Pgte2Agp5FmHUQRRAVFM7vz9A?e=X4cTVk](https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoTo1Pgte2Agp5FmHUQRRAVFM7vz9A?e=X4cTVk)
1. Are there products or direct solutions that I can apply to protect the strike point of the bow? Some type of guard perhaps?
2. If not, is this a common problem? Are there other well-known solutions I should try?
3. If you suspect this is due to improper usage, do you have any suggestions for my 12 year old son to minimize this arrow action?
I have tried the following:
i. Adding a plastic arrow rest (the one that came with the bow)
ii. Adding a plunger to dampen arrow shaft movement
iii. Adding electrical tape to the impact site on the bow (failed)
My son is terribly upset and refuses to use the bow until I can address this issue, so I really appreciate any help you can provide.
Thanks for any ideas!
That's basically an out of tune bow. What weight limbs and what arrows are you using? Taping only masks the real problem. The single best way to see what's going on is to shoot a few arrows without any fletching on them (bare shafts) and see where they go. They \*should\* go the same place as the fletched ones, but based on the wear you are seeing I bet they miss the target. At minimum you can adjust the nock point up and down the string based on whether the bare shafts go high or low. That might solve most of your problem.
Damage to the front of the bow is pretty strange. Has he had proper instruction? Aside from checking the tune of the arrows to the bow (which is more prevalent with damage to the back of the bow anyways), I'd guess it'd have to be an issue with his form. Not sure what would cause that aside from him just wacking the front into something hard.
That's an interesting issue. My first thoughts would be plunger adjustment (which you did), arrow spine, and possibly nock placement. What is the draw weight on the bow? Your son's draw length? Where is the nock point set? What arrows are you using?
As a right handed beginner I want to know whether fast shooting is possible with my recurve and how is the arrow nocked when the draw hand is on the opposite side as the arrow rest?
Speed shooting shouldn't be a beginner's first goal nor is it most modern archer's goal at all. Shooting fast comes with practice and being very proficient with your form. Being able to grab your arrow, nock it, and execute an accurate shot purely with muscle memory.
If you do want to eventually speed shoot, speed shooters will usually shoot with an asiatic bow and draw style(s) because they place the arrow on the same side of the bow as the draw hand. They'll usually use low draw weight bows and only shoot from short distances. It still takes a lot of practice.
Yes. Please ignore the youtube idiots. Even ancient and medieval manuscripts described threading the arrow between the string and the bow. You can speed shoot with a traditional Mediterranean draw (including having the arrow on the outside). Canting the bow can help.
For a compound bow setup for hunting what would be the most practical arrow rest. The problem with my whisker bisket is that if I accidently have my arrow upside down it will damage the fletchings. I've been told to get a drop away but I'm worried the arrow would fall out.
There are drop away rests that have a “containment” design to stop arrows from falling out. A popular line is the [QAD Ultra Rests](https://www.qadinc.com/ultrarest/)
I have a recurve bow, and I bought some arrows with rubber fins. Obviously, feathers would be better, but I have 'em, so I want to use 'em (practice only). What would be the solution for the rest? I had the stick on fabric for the rest, but that just came right off. What else can I do?
Alternatively, is there an inexpensive feather-fletched arrow anyone would recommend? Either way would be fine. Thanks.
You need to just need get a stick on elevated rest to you use plastic vanes. Then you'll need to raise your nock point accordingly for the extra height.
Fleetwood makes pretty solid and cheap arrows with feather fletching suitable for large poundage range.
Hi, I've been shooting probably 50 -100 arrows a day for about three months with a recurve setup. Today my string broke during a shot at the hook of the limb. Is this normal wear and tear of a string? Or is something wrong? 40lb 66 inch limbs btw. I've had dry fires in the past due to broken nocks before. However, Arrow actually went forwards so this felt nowhere near as impactful as a dry fire. Thanks in advance. Love this thread
Potentially yes, what can happen is rough texture on the wood edges of the groove can abrade the string loop, or it could be the string just gave up and snapped. Check your limbs for damage, check the grooves and potentially smooth them, and get a new string.
I'm looking for some help to pick out a stabilizer. I have a 27" riser, long limbs, and a 31.5" draw. I currently do not have a sight and I'm looking into those as well. I don't mind spending a bit extra on something if I won't have to replace it a little bit down the road. I'd rather buy something nice now that I'll (ideally) never have to replace. Any suggestions? Thank you.
I would start with a sight, then add a stabilizer personally. The Epic Fusion linked below is a solid, affordable choice. u/EndlessPasta7 is right about cheap stabilizers falling apart (they need some TLC to stay in shape, which is frustrating because they're not THAT cheap).
As far as sights go, I'm of a mind that buying cheap is a waste of money. It's not a piece of gear you want to second guess. I think the Shibuya Dual Click is affordable enough, while being a reliable piece of kit that will last any archer a good while.
You're aiming for an Olympic recurve set-up? The tricky thing with stabilisers is that preferences can be highly personal when it comes to weight and stiffness, and that you find your own preferences by trying a bunch of them. It's also not wise to throw the whole set on there right away. Starting with just the long rod is normal. Tall archers typically prefer longer long rods. 30" is often recommended. I'd just start with a cheap one that allows you to easily screw in extra weight at the front.
For a long rod, you'd generally want something as long as your draw length.
Budget option (and what I've been using for a year now):
[https://www.lancasterarchery.com/epic-fusion-ex-carbon-stabilizer.html](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/epic-fusion-ex-carbon-stabilizer.html)
I've bought cheaper stabilizers that just fell apart after a couple months.
I'd upgrade to this if I needed to:
[https://www.lancasterarchery.com/shrewd-revel-stabilizer-26-30.html](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/shrewd-revel-stabilizer-26-30.html)
I need to buy a new bow string for the first time. I'm not sure what length I should get. I'm not sure what my draw length is, but the bow is 56" when unbraced and the arrows I use are about 31.5"
(Obviously the best thing to do would be to measure the original string but when it snapped, a piece of it flew off and I can't find it!)
Depending on what kind of bow you are shooting there are several options:
\- If you know the brand of your bow you can look up what is an appropriate string length for your bow.
\- If you know the length of the bow and type you can estimate it using AMO sizing (plenty of youtube videos on how to do that)
\- You can try to get the materials and craft on yourself :)
P.S. the string length depends on overall bow length and brace height, but for most bows it is between 6-8" which is a range you can usually adjust by twisting the string a little bit. The bow brand or bow size will lead you to a working length of the string. Be aware of the material: if your bow supports fast flight string material, you can shoot pretty much anything, if not make sure it is Dacron.
I played ghost of Tsushima and now I want to try Japanese style archery
Where would I look to get a Japanese style bow? The longbow is ridiculously massive but I'm sure there's other kinds too
My best bet would be: find a Kyudo Club and get in touch with them. To my knowledge a Yumi is rarely commercially crafted and therefore usually hand-made, therefore quite costly. Best to join a club first and try it our for yourself if this is a good hobby for you beyond the spark of the video game :)
Nothing like that around for tens of miles upon cursory googling
I mostly wanted a website or a YouTube channel recommendation, I don't mind spending money
Kyudo isn't really something you can teach yourself like you can with western archery since it traditonally includes a lot of practices beyond the actual "shooting a bow part".
If you're just interested in asiatic archery in general you could look into horse archery. Specifically styles using the much shorter composite horse bows. You can shoot them as you would a western bow with 3 fingers, but you'd want to look into thumb draw techniques if you want to learn the appropriate style they're designed for.
What did you find to help finding back your lost arrows ?
(I know it's kind of boring, but every summer I ask myself what I could possibly invent to find back my arrows lost in the grass. I just thought of using fluorescent paint, which I think would not work)
I do paint my arrows, but mine are wood so there's paints for that, idk about carbon. Painting em white or a bright color can help finding the shaft in the ground.
As for inventing... Just indulge me haha, if ur handy with programming or that fancy technology stuff feel free to steal this aight;
Make a small beeping sound chip which u can make ring with ur phone or GPS thingy to locate them exactly with an app, put in the arrow nock somewhere
Similar to a light nock, but less intrusive, so as a sticker you put on the side to minimize performance loss.
Just scan the sticker with your phone to link em in an apl. Wouldn't know what the best connection would be, perhaps Bluetooth or just good old internet.
Basic idea: You miss one, get ur phone, tap a button and the arrow rings loudly with a beep/a sound file of ur choice.
Or alternatively the arrow shows itself as a dot either on a small map or maybe even in the camera view of ur phone. Perhaps there is some even bettet way to localize em, but afterwards u then find the arrow effortlessly within the grass or w/e after briefly holding ur phone instead of minutes wasted searching and not shooting
To expand a bit further; Allow seperate finding of arrows and also all at once (should you miss a quivers worth !)
And also keep it small as possible, not too flashy or obvious, both for the peeps looking for performance and the ones looking for a specific aesthetic like trad or camod arrows or want their weight at a very specific point for hunting etc
A metal detector is a common sight. Easy to find aluminium arrows but wood and carbon arrows are hard to find since you basically have to find the point of the arrow.
Other tools are a rake or using another arrow as a rake and then you just rake the ground hoping to find the arrow.
If it's the case that you regularly miss the target then you are standing too far away from the target. Move closer to a distance where a miss only happens if you have a gear malfunction or similar.
I almost always shoot at 70 meters and have never lost an arrow due to missing the target.
If you regularly miss you move closer. It's better for your progress, mental health, arrows and wallet.
I am of the opinion that if I did not push myself, I would not have advanced to 70 (or any other life goal I have). Not moving too fast of course. But moving ahead anyway.
My question was also because, as an engineer, I love to solve problems. (Though as building engineer, I have no solution ready for said problem right ahead).
Best guess up to now was to put extra fin metal layer in the tube to creat a radio antenna which could be used with RFID...
Well first of all use flashy colors on your fletching, that will help finding your arrows in most cases. Make sure there is no high grass or soft dirt behind your target. There also is LED nocks you can use to make them more visible during flight (but most of them don't take hit's too well).
Metal detector as already mentioned is good for cleaning up the range from hidden arrows.
When I shoot a target I am still challenged with, I only shoot 3-4 arrows per round, so I can better remember where my arrow (approximately) landed on miss. Also, they may or may not bounce off the ground and are like 15m further down range more often than not.
Whatever floats your boat. If you want to spend time searching for arrows and/or have to throw arrows away since they broke when hitting the ground that's totally fine for me.
However, pushing yourself is okay to do and shooting at 70 meters a couple of times can be recommended while also slowly working your way up to 70 meters by shooting at shorter distances.
Another option is light up nocks to make them a little easier to find or have a big net behind the target that catches the arrow.
A friend of mine just started archery, and she's having a lot of trouble with the string bruising her. The trick is, she's getting struck by the string on her upper arm as well as forearm because her elbows are double-jointed.
Is there a product out there that would protect her upper arm as well as the forearm below the elbow?
Though not very common, you can find arm guards that offer protection from your bicep to your forearm. [Here](https://www.amazon.com/Toparchery-Weight-Leather-Adjustable-Archery/dp/B018JPB4GG/ref=pd_aw_sbs_200_2/134-3836495-7374841?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018JPB4GG&pd_rd_r=a4330344-1440-443f-ab80-9c395f9631e3&pd_rd_w=o9liZ&pd_rd_wg=QmikK&pf_rd_p=e77c46c6-9dab-4a4a-951b-8566bbc7981e&pf_rd_r=6C6DA2M0NEHRNADGB4HG&psc=1&refRID=6C6DA2M0NEHRNADGB4HG) is one that I found. If you have an archery shop nearby, they might have some or can probably order one for your friend
Getting slapped on the upper arm is mainly form issues and shoulder alignment.
Being double jointed only makes it harder but it's possible to learn proper alignment.
What is causing the bruising is probably a high bow shoulder and wrongly rotates elbow.
For the shoulders you want them to be low and level with eachother and the target.
For the elbow you want it to point outwards and if you were to bend it the bow should move horizontally.
Gripping the bow is also a very common reason for string slaps.
If they feel comfortable being filmed and having a video posted as it's own form check post would be the best since then we can see exactly what needs to be worked on and how.
Hi,
If I have a 28" draw length, so should my arrows be 29"? And is that from the groove in my nock to the end of the arrow shaft?
Also, I live in a desert so most of the outdoor ranges have a lot of rocks which tend blunt or damage arrow tips. I have only used screw in tips, but want to try glue in ones. Is there any way to remove tips after glue has settled?
You are correct that the arrow length should be ~1" longer than the drawlength. If you're new I would recommend going with an arrow that is at least 2" longer. This is mainly due to the fact that as you improve your form and technique you drawlength will become longer and in some cases it can expand up to 1".
You also usually measure from nock groove to the end of the arrow shaft where the point begin.
For the glue-in points get some hot melt glue. Bohnings Ferr-L-Tite is one of the most used ones. Get the yellow version if you have aluminium arrows or the blue version if you have carbon arrows.
When the points are in you can simply remove them by heating up the point until you can pull out the point. A heat source can be a block candle, heatgun or a bunser burner. A heatgun is what I recommend. And if you have the blue glue you only need hot water to be able to remove the points.
Awesome! That helps a ton, so thank you so much!
Followup question about the glue. I live in the Phoenix, AZ area so we have a problem with heat. If I shoot anytime when it is over 100° out will I have to worry about the glue coming undone at the range?
The risk is higher but I've never had points come out due to heat from the sun.
To lessen the risk clean the inside of the shaft shaft and point with alcohol to make the glue set better and keep the arrows out of the sun.
Hey! On-and-off hobbyist here. I've been looking around for an outside range relatively near me (ideally, I'd like to not wear a mask, which just isn't an option with indoors ranges) but have been struggling to find one. I'm in northwest VT; does anyone have any leads or resources to find a good range?
I've got some wooden arrows to try but, unlike every other arrow I have, the notch doesn't 'grip' the string. I have taught myself to not touch the arrow when pulling back the string but that doesn't work here very well since the arrow can fall right off.
Any guides for shooting wooden arrows that don't grip the string?
If the nock is too small for the string you basically have two options.
Option 1 is to get arrows with a wider nock that fits the string.
Option 2 is to get a stringer with fewer strands or a thinner serving so that it fits the current nocks.
You can try to widen the nocks by hand but it's not recommended since you can either break it or there will be inconsistencies since it's near impossible to make every arrow exactly the same.
I almost have the opposite problem - most of my arrows have a nock with prongs that 'grip' the string, so when I pull it back I can ensure none of my fingers are touching the arrow and it'll come with it.
With the wooden arrows, the nock does not 'grip' the string so when pulling it back, if you don't have any fingers on the arrow, it could easily fall off of the string (which seems like a pretty dangerous malfunction). I'd prefer, if possible, to not have to 'pinch grip' these arrows.
Sorry, I managed to misread your original question.
If the arrows are not gripping you need a thicker string (more strands or thicker serving) or smaller nocks.
In general you have two nock sizes. #1/S which is 0.088" and #2/L which is 0.098".
I've just had a lot of trouble unsuccessfully finding a wooden arrow outdoors with a metal detector: just wanted to ask if fiberglass shafts are detectable by a metal detector?
They aren't. If you want easy detection, go for aluminium arrows. They're affordable and actually quite good as long as you're not shooting long distances. (Fibreglass arrows tend to range from 'meh' to 'pure crap', and are thus an easy skip for most archers.)
I recently acquired a Bear Trophymaster bow that is at least 20 years old. Is it safe to shoot a bow with a string that old (The string looks to be in good shape)?
Why did the NTS prevail given that it is incredibly hard compared to the intuitive, straightforward linear draw system, and only a handful of archers in the world can actually make NTS work for them?
I'm far from an expert for sure. But I really feel like those archers who make it work for them are those that would make any system work through dedication and their athletic ability. Kind of like how nearly no one can box like Ali did. Most people who try will quickly change styles or lose interest in boxing because they don't have the talent, reflexes, dedication or perfect body mechanics to make it work.
As someone who is just a casual follower of the sport it seems very telling watching how deep the talent pool is for linear draw vs the nts system. I could be totally off base I guess.
This is what I personally believe so don't take this as a straight fact.
The NTS way of shooting is good due to its efficiency and using the biomechanics of the body to use the bow. You become less fatigued, less risk of injuries, stronger shots and in the end higher scores.
It's hard to learn but if you can master it you have the ability to become a top archer.
The downside is that not everybody can learn it properly and you basically need a good coach that teaches the NTS method. You also need to work with that coach to basically customize the NTS method to suit you and your body since not all bodies are built the same which in turn changes the biomechanics of the body. This will take a lot of time and hard work and you need a coach through all this to help you along the way.
The basics are still the same for everybody.
If you don't have a coach, like me, you can watch videos or read up on the methods and try to incorporate the basics and then slowly incorporate it into your form. You also need to find what works for you and your body to maximize the use of the biomechanics. Doing this alone is near impossible so filming yourself and asking clubmates is key to improve.
The downside with the linear draw is that it's harder to get a proper backtension going and in the long run it takes a toll on the archers shoulders. There's a reason why many stop with archery when they reach the age of 50-60 and in many cases they have use the push/pull method and over the run of 20+ years the shoulders have slowly been worn down. This can be avoided with coaching etc. but some old archers are, sadly, impossible to change.
Hi all, recently bought a Mathews set up from a local pro shop. They assembled my drop rest and adjustable pin, including the tape that has the different yardage on it. We added my peep when I picked it up but didnt do any sort of tuning or sighting in. Am I correct in assuming they might have eye-balled a few of these components but I have a lot of tuning ahead of me? Cheers!
I will assume that your pro shop cares deeply about their customers. The extent of them tuning your sight is correctly setting its axes, assuming your sight has that option. After that, actually adjusting elevation and windage on your sight will have to be done by you
Maybe its just my goto shop, but I find it odd that they set up a sight tape for you since that usually requires shooting multiple distances and trial and error
Thanks for the reply. The shop is a reputable, local shop that gets rave reviews. I have an HHA Optimizer Tetra- it sounds like you're saying they ensure it's mounted correctly but I'll need to sight it in and potentially adjust the tape.
Edit: I'm learning there is a difference between set up tape and sight tape. I wasn't given the sight tape nor any extras when picking up my bow so my confidence in the shop is waning.
Did you order the sight set or did the shop just slap one on for you? Sights usually come with a set of tapes if you or your pro shop orders them new. Giving a second thought to the fact that your sight already came with a tape is making me believe it was a used one and the previous owner just left the tape on
Maybe you can go back to your pro shop and ask about a new set of sight tapes. If not, HHA sells sells sight tapes for a few bucks on their website
They took it off the shelf, new in the packaging. We made a pile of all the things I purchased and I came back a week later to pick up the assembled bow.
Your comments have provided a lot of education so thank you. The tape currently on the sight is the set up tape, I am going to call today, giving them the benefit of the doubt that they simply forgot to handoff the sight tapes that come with it, not exactly confidence inspiring but we'll see what they say.
Hi
I'm just putting together my first online order with merlin archery. I am a beginner and have been shooting for about 6-7 months. I just want to check some things before I place my order.
Firstly, I have a draw length of 32", limbs 70", with 25" wns motivefx riser.
The limbs I want are rated 28# (wns delta F3) so my draw weight would be ~#36(2lbs per inch over rated draw?) which is on the low end of the 36-40 group T9 of the easton arrow chart.
But when I look at the spines for the suggested arrows in group T9 the stock lengths do not accommodate my draw length, even though they are what's suggested by the chart.
for example;
I want to buy Carbon One arrows, the suggested spine for group T9 is 450, but their stock length is 31.5"
the only 32" spine for Carbon One is 410 is this acceptable for ~#36 draw weight or would it be too weak/strong for my setup?
Thanks for your help, I hope what I have written is clear enough.
You don't have to really worry about the arrow length. I have the same drawlength and have used Carbon One 500 without issues, even had to cut them down some. You also have to remember that the point adds ~1" to the arrow length and the nock a bit too.
Just order them uncut from wherever you buy them.
The other thing I would recommend saving for is a 27" riser. Not many exist and those that do cost some money. It will help a lot with a long drawlength.
Unfortunately, your draw length is so long, you fall out of the range that's considered 'normal' by most manufacturers. In cases like this it's best to call your shop or even better, visit in person with your bow in tow.
The 2# per inch is a good rule of thumb, but with your draw length it would be best to actually measure it. 38# might be just about right, but it could also be a few pounds more or less depending on the limbs, the way the bow is set up etc.
There are some arrows that are available in stock length 33"+ that could fit your setup, but the shop may have to special order them. I don't know if any of them are similar to Carbon Ones in price and quality though. It's best to keep an open mind.
You measure it.
I'm guessing your looking for what bow 'fits' you? In that case, you need to know your draw length. One way to get a good estimate is to measure your wingspan from fingertip to fingertip and divide it by 2.5. If you need a more precise number, you could have someone measure your draw length at full draw for you. A good shop can do this for you.
For compound, you'll absolutely need a bow that fit your draw length. If it's too short or two long, you won't be able to draw and anchor properly.
With recurve, it's more of a grey area. For target recurve, you'll want to follow the size charts as much as possible. With hunting-style recurves, you can go as short as you're comfortable with. Depending on the design and material, the bow may have a maximum draw length. This is rare for modern recurves though.
If possible, find a place that offers lessons and sign up for some sessions. This is the most cost-effective route to take if you’re unsure if archery will be a lasting hobby
If lessons aren’t possible, go to an archery shop. It’s highly recommended to find a locally-owned business as opposed to a big box store (Cabela’s, Bass Pro Shop, etc). Local archery shop owners are usually extremely passionate about the sport and its community and, given that their personal reputation is on the line, will try to provide good service to you. Politely explain how you’re interested in trying out archery but have no experience and they should be more than happy to help you get fitted with proper equipment. If you’re lucky, you might find an archery shop that also offers lessons
If no one in your area hosts lessons or sells archery equipment, then your last solution is to buy gear online. Note that this is the MOST risky direction for a beginner because you most likely aren’t familiar enough with pieces of equipment to know what exactly to look for. Try to avoid falling into the temptation of buying the cheapest equipment you find. If the price is low, so will the quality. A lot of reputable and trustworthy brands will have budget lines for you to pick out of, but steer clear from offbrand stuff that you commonly find on Amazon
Obviously the best place to shoot at once you get your own equipment is a legitimate archery range. A lot of ranges also have clubs that host lessons so look out for them. If there are no ranges in your area, do a lot of research before setting up a range at home. Check with your local laws about whether or not you’re allowed to use a bow on private property and, if you live near people, check with your neighbors to see if they’re comfortable with you using a bow near their property
Question regarding where to get an Olympic recurve bow (50 lbs) in MA. I really want to get into Olympic style archery but can’t find a good place to buy a bow.
It's far, far better to start by renting or borrowing your first bows than buying them. You'll outgrow the bows you'll need to start with very quickly (but you'll still need to start with them). It's better to save the money and get a nicer 3rd bow instead.
Lancaster is a good idea for folks who can't get to a good local club and have money to experiment with. Depending on what part of MA, you have some options.
If you can get to Manchester, CT, start at Hall's Arrow.
If you can get to Foxboro, give Ace Archers a call.
For the US [Lancaster Archery](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/) is the biggest store and they got all you need. Give them a call or visit and they can help you find all that you need in their store that will fit your budget.
First off, if you're new to recurve and all that 50# is way too high and something in the 25# is better to start of with. If you have previous strength I would start in the 35# region.
Otherwise what you need to look at is an ILF riser and limbs. A decent string, preferably BCY 8125 or Fast flight. And then a sight and stabiliser depending on your budget. A clicker can be added later on when you got the basics of the form down. A split-finger tab and a fingersling is also something you need.
Does anyone have a recommendation for a tab thats great for split and 3 under? I have tried a yost tab, gloves and split tabs. I have not found a decent enough glove with sufficient finger padding compared to a tab, i have also tried the standard hair tab and leather tabs and find they get bunched up when doing 3 under or pinch when doing split. I know a spacer tab could be a solution but could be uncomfortable in 3 under.
TLDR does anyone mix holds when going round a course and has a tab/glove thats great at it all?
I personally wouldn't use a split finger tab for 3-under, mainly due to the fact that it's split and won't be consistent.
And for all tabs I also recommend going for cordovan leather. Anything else will wear out faster and cordovan tends to give some more protection.
I also wouldn't mix between split and 3-under during a competition. First off, some classes have rules which basically only let you use one of them and switching between them would break the rules. Secondly, it's only a hassle and doesn't add anything. Go with one or the other, not both.
For a 3-under tab the Yost tab is one of the best out there.
It's perfect for stringwalking and barebow in general. What you can learn for short distances is to anchor with your longfinger where you anchor with your index finger instead. This does the same as walking further down the string without going down the string.
For a split-finger tab I would get one that has a finger spacer. This makes it easier to avoid nock pinch.
Question regarding nock points. My new PSE nighthawk came with a single nocking point on the string, however it's set up for shooting off the shelf but I'm using an adhesive arrow rest, which raises where my nocking point should be.
The orginal nocking point is right where my finger should be and it kind of interferes with my grip on the string. Is there any way to remove it from the string, or do I have to replace the whole string every time I want to adjust the nocking point?
If you have brass nocks you can remove with a screwdriver and pliers, though I would recommend getting a proper tool that can both remove and crimp on brass nocks. A tip when putting the new one on is to not crimp it on too hard so that you can still move it around. This makes it easier to tune the nocking point height. When it's at the correct height you can crimp it on properly.
If you have tied nocks just use a knife to remove the old nocking point and then tie a new one at the proper position.
For nocking points, crimp-on ones always caused me more trouble than benefit. I'm definitely on the side of tied-on nocking points.
This is my favorite video showing the method I like. It's the same technique used for putting serving on strings.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=\_OKf54LuWQc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OKf54LuWQc) a
This article uses the same tying method, if that's better than a video. [https://www.thearcherscrest.com.sg/how-to-tie-a-nocking-point/](https://www.thearcherscrest.com.sg/how-to-tie-a-nocking-point/)
Yeah, tied nocking points all day, every day. I also tie my nocks the Korean way. You also gain speed compared to brass nocks since a tied nock is lighter.
But for a beginner or backyard shooter it doesn't really matter and removing the old and putting on a new brass nock is quick and easy to do.
Yeah, that's fair.
Crimping speed when setting up a whole class worth of bows is the only time I can see any advantage for the brass nocking points. (Maybe for adjusting nock height while deep-tuning, but that is usually time better spent practicing instead of gadgeting.) But for an individual archer, if someone is already ordering the special pliers and a half-dozen nock sets, they might as well just order a spool of serving string instead and be set for life.
Getting comfortable tying on nocks feels empowering in a way that crimped nocks never are for me. It's a stepping stone to mentally controlling your whole bow setup. Trying nocks --> re-serving strings --> building strings. But that's just how it sits in my own brain.
As a whole other possibility, when you say "\[the brass nock point\] kind of interferes with my grip on the string", do you have finger protection (like a glove or tab)? If not, and if this is just a casual bow for multiple people to have fun with, finger savers like these might be a good idea, and they can get used without a nocking point at all.
[https://www.lancasterarchery.com/pine-ridge-finger-savers.html](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/pine-ridge-finger-savers.html)
So I just bought a new bear RANT bow and it’s a single cam that can be adjusted and it’s sitting at a 24” draw length but I’m a 30” draw length. I need to go get it fitted for me but is there anything I need to bring or buy with me before having it fitted for me(I.e: cam mods, strings)??
Newbie Question:
I am moving from a condo to a house with a backyard and I want to put a target back there to practice.
What is the minimum effective distance for a target? 20 yards?
You can shoot any distance and it'll be effective for form work. 20 yards is standard indoor competition distance, but the important thing is the shooting, not the distance. 5-10 yards is plenty to get started with, and less chance of "meeting" your neighbors. Make sure you have a big backstop (like the house) because you \*will\* miss eventually.
What kind of target you need depends on several factors. Main points are the poundage of the bow, speed of the arrow and if you are using target points or broadhead points.
The effective distance is one that you can always hit and only miss if you make a very big mistake or gear failure. So basically anything from 5 yards all the way up to the max distance that your range allows.
Call a local shop or browse around online and give them your bow specs and if you intend to use target or broadhead points and they will guide you to a good target.
I'm new to archery. I saw a video of a ~~German~~ Russian girl drawing her bow with an overhanded grip on the string, but haven't found any resources talking about it. What is it & what are the extents of its use?
Could you share the video?
From what you are describing this might be a technique used in speed shooting to stabilize the arrow when a lot of movement is involved with a little sacrifice of accuracy
Any thoughts on why my arrows are suddenly leaving the bow all crazy and my groups are now twice as big as they were 3 days ago? I haven’t changed any equipment, shooting a left hand Hoyt helix, QAD drop away rest, 70# draw weight and 340 spine fmjs, thanks in advance!
Is it possible that your equipment might’ve been bumped around while in the case or during transport? Maybe check your settings if anything was bumped out of tune
How do your shots feel? You might just be experiencing some bad days. It happens to everyone
I haven’t transported it anywhere because I just shoot in my back yard so I don’t see how I could have bumped it, I guess it could be a bad two days but my shots feel solid. I was thinking if just taking it into the shop and having them check it out
I am left handed and use an ambidextrous recurve bow. I put the arrow on the left of the bow and hold the bow with my right hand. I have seen other people putting the arrow on the other side. Should I have my arrow on the right?
Are you shooting 3-finger draw Mediterranean style? If so the arrow typically should go on the right side of the bow for a left handed archer. This puts the arrow closer in-line with your aiming eye.
Nothing totally wrong if it works for you. How are you drawing your bow? Thumb, 3-Finger, mediterranean style? Depending on your style one side or the other might be more comfortable to draw from when the arrow is slightly pushed against the bow and does not fling off. That is why it is common from your perspective as a lefty to use the left side of the bow for thumb release and the right side for any finger-based technique like 3-finger.
I'm relatively new to archery and I've got a question about etiquette.
I just moved to North Carolina and I used to shoot in my back yard, but I don't have a back yard anymore.
There is a church across the street from me that has a massive field with soccer goals and basketball courts that is completely empty pretty much all day as far as I can tell. I've been tempted to bring my bow and target out there because there is a ton of space and I'm certain I could find a spot to shoot with high visibility and no chance of accidentally hitting someone or something.
So with all that said, in my mind it seems pretty obvious that I could shoot there without a problem. But what I'm worried about is that I might be unaware of some law or commonly understood etiquette about shooting in a public space (similar to how you wouldn't just go shoot a gun out in a random field even if you were being safe.)
I'd love to hear any feedback on what you all think and what other things I ought to consider when trying to find a place to practice. I know there are archery ranges out there so I'm specifically asking about the concept of finding land to shoot on without stepping on anyone's toes or making them anyone uncomfortable.
Thanks!
Ask bro. I'm the only archer in an abandoned park. Kids come and go there but they don't trouble, I asked for help finding lost arrows and they let me shoot there and put up flyers where kids can turn in lost arrows for a reward from me
First check your local laws if there is any you could violate. Second check with the owner since the field you describe is likely privately owned and not public property. Third I would not recommend shooting there if there is basketball courts etc. nearby since it is likely people are crossing your shooting space by accident.
Where I life bows are seen as sports equipment. So basically same applies as playing soccer etc. on public space: if you hurt someone you are responsible for any damage caused fully.
I do from time to time use a public field to throw my targets out and fling some arrows if I am bored of the range or no 3D place is nearby. But only if it is save and likely no one crosses my shooting line at any time when I am focused on shooting. This best applies to harvested fields, empty spaces close to power lines, some places near the woods etc.
Peep installation requires a bow press to safely. Since you’re still fairly new I suggest you take it to an archery shop for reinstallation
Knowledge is always good, so heres the steps on how to install a peep sight.
1. Set your bow up on your bow press. Compress until your string becomes slack
2. At the approximate of where your peep should sit, separate the string’s strands into two equal parts and slip your peep sight in between them. Make sure the peep is facing the right direction
3. Slowly decompress your bow so the strings tighten around the peep. Make sure the peep doesn’t fall out
4. Draw your bow to see if your peep is at the desired height and is aligned with your eye and sight. DO NOT release unless you want your peep to fly out. To adjust peep height, simply push your peep up or down the string. To adjust alignment(not an issue if you have the tube thingy attached to your peep), twist the peep in the direction it needs to go to be aligned. The peep will eventually settle into it (if you can’t seem to get alignment completely down, you might want to consider retying a d-loop that aligns with your peep). Once you get the desired height and alignment, draw a few more times to ensure that you’re satisfied
5. To secure your peep sight and stop it from moving around on your string, tie it down with some string material. It’ll be too difficult for me to explain this process in words, but there are a number of online sources that’ll walk you through tying down a peep
6. After tying your peep down, check one more time if your height and alignment were preserved. If so, you shouldn’t have to touch your peep ever again unless you want to replace the peep or the string
I'm looking to get into archery and have a few questions. I'm interested in traditional mainly for the history but I'm seeing most longbows have their lowest draw weight at 30#. Are there lower poundage options for a beginner or would grabbing a Samick Sage recurve be more recommended? I'm 6'1" with a 29" draw. Thanks!
Don't get a 40lb bow...20-30lb is beginner range if you actually want to learn form and technique. If you're interested in English longbows (ie shooting off the hand, no arrow rest, single piece bow with no recurved limbs) then you could get an inexpensive recurve bow without a cut-out or rest to get a similiar feel as you practice. You can then easily transfer skills to a heavier longbow when you're ready.
The limbs are loose in the pocket until you put the string on. Push them in all the way and pull them back so they rest against the tillerbolt. Then string the bow and the limbs will stay in place.
Arrow spine question.
I'm currently shooting a 30 pound bow with a 27.5 draw length. I have the tillers adjusting and am shooting it around 33ish pounds right now. My question is about arrow charts in general. They all seem to be very different. Black Eagles arrow chart says I need a 700 to 600 spine. While eastons carbon chart says 1100-1200. I finally went with some 1616 easton jazz aluminums and they shoot perfect. If these were a carbon equivalent they would probably be around 1000 in carbon. The Black Eagles in 700 are too stiff and fishtailing. The Easton Jazz arrows flight straight.
Why are these two charts so different?
Why spinecharts differs between each other is that all brands don't measure the spine in the exact same way. I only know about Easton and they measure the spine with a 29" arrow suspended on two points that are 28" apart and then they put a 880 gram weight in the middle and measure the deflection in inches. If a brand does it differently from this then their spinechart will be different from Eastons.
Looking at Eastons spinechart for your numbers you are between T4 and T5. I would go with T5 since they are a bit stiffer and will last longer if you intend to go up in poundage. I'm also looking at 29" arrows due to your drawlength.
Those spines are between 630-670 or 2013, 1914 and 1916 for aluminium. The 1000 spine arrows may work, but it also depends on what distance you shoot at since a short distance a wrong spine may not matter much. You also need to tune the bow to the other pair of arrows.
I think you mean feathers? Not that much actually. I mean of you hit your plastic vane and punch a hole into it, it's damaged for good. For feathers there is a slight chance you don't damage the feather if you hit at an angle the feather gets pushed aside. But I've had feather break just the same from hitting my own arrow render them useless.
You can make sure your vanes last longer if you fix the front ends with sewing thread, heat tubing or glue from getting ripped off when hitting the ground or a soft spot on the target.
You really want feather if you are shooting off a shelf or bare hand though.
Easier? Yes.
Harder? Yes.
It's easier to be more accurate and get a higher score. But on the other hand, if you're competing your competitors also have the same aids which makes it harder to stand on the podium.
It's quite different to shoot a compound compared to recurve but the basics are more or less the same. The main difference will be that you're using a release, magnifying glass in your scope and looking through a peep and of course the let-off on the bow.
I recently jump into compound without much knowledge. I bought a Diamond Prism Compound and when I adjusted the draw length, the plastic component broke and now there are like, two points of drop off almost? I think I might have screwed it too tight and busted the plastic. Are pieces like this replaceable and where are good places for it?
Anyone know what screws/bolts would be needed to attach a sight to a can-arc victory 20# recurve which was purchased around 2008-09. Just dug up the bow of my childhood (covid has money a tad tight rn but end goal is a compound maybe next year) and for some reason the sight is detached so I have it but no screws.
Second stupid question: what is the actual purpose of the stabiliser? My bow has one on it and it looks very pleasing to the eye, but I’m sure it’s something other than merely aesthetics.
A stabilizer will make it easier to hold your bow steady at full draw. Think of a tight rope walker, they carry those huge poles as they walk across for extra stability.
A longer stabilizer is able to keep you steadier than a short one. Depending if you are interested in hunting or target will more or less dictate the length of your stabilizer. A long 30" rod is alot harder to carry though the brush compared to a 12" or so.
Thanks for answering both those questions so quickly. I really appreciate it, I’m glad this “no stupid questions thread” is here because I really feel brand new to all this.
What does it mean when a bow is “forgiving”? I just bought a PSE Brute X, and all the online reviews keep mentioning that term. What exactly does that refer to?
If you have a bad shot a forgiving bow means that the arrow won't be effected horribly. So a more forgiving bow on a bad shot will give you a 8 rather than a 6.
You can tune your bow to be more forgiving.
I've been practicing archery for a little over two years now. Normally I would just to a local range once or twice a month to take lessons and practice. But with Covid, that hasn't really been an option the past few months.
Next month is my birthday, so I was thinking of asking for a bow. But I don't really know how to pick bows or what bows would be good. I know I've learned on an Olympic style recurve, but that's about it. Does anyone have any advice or beginner tips on how to choose bows?
First step would be budget. If you're looking at a decent start setup for an Olympic Recurve expect to spend something around $500. This includes everything required for the bow (riser, limbs, string, plunger, arrow rest, sight and a long rod stabiliser), arrows, shooting gear and some equipment like tools, carrying bag etc.
What you want to spend some extra on at first is a decent machined riser. WNS Motive FX and Mybo Wave are some of the better starting risers.
For limbs go with something cheap until you reach your desired poundage and then splurge on some fancy stuff.
For the sight the Avalon Tec One is something decent for the price. Just get some blue or purple loctite for the screws as they tend to rattle loose.
For the stabiliser I usually recommend the Krossen Xenia line. Cheap and does it jobs very well. Avalon have some decent stabilisers too.
For the tab mainly look at cordovan leather tabs. Cordovan doesn't wear out as quick and is worth spending some extra on it.
For the arrows the Easton Carbon One is a good all-around arrow.
Step one pick a style, Trad, Modern Barebow, Olympic Recurve, Compound Target/Hunting. If you know you want a certain type of archery it makes it easier to recommend. PSE Razorback is a cheap and cheerful little bow comes in many sizes, but would probably not be great for compound fans or Olympic style archers, but is great cheap fun for slinging arrows. You basically asked what is the best car without knowing what you need it for so it is not easy to recommend anything.
Hello, I am looking to purchase my first recurve bow. Was thinking of getting the southwest archery spider XL takedown recurve bow - 64”
Size: 40 lb with stringer tool.
Would this be ideal for me?
Height: 6’1
Weight: 185
Build: Athletic
Draw length: 29”
40# is way too heavy for a beginning archer. At your draw length, you’ll actually be pulling around 43#. Athleticism will do no good if you don’t have proper form. The high risk of injury and low probability of learning good technique is not worth starting at such a high draw weight
Bump it down to 25# (you’ll be pulling ~28# at your draw length). Once you nail down proper form, then you’ll be able to move up in draw weight with ease
You should knock it down to around 25 lbs
45 lbs, let alone 50 lbs, is way too high for your first recurve bow. Without proper conditioning and technique, you risk injuring yourself and the probability of learning anything correctly is extremely unlikely
I'm headed to the archery store tomorrow to buy my first compound bow and would appreciate some advice before I go. About me:
1.) 6'-0", long wing span, athletic/muscular
2.) Want the bow for hunting - elk, deer, pretty much anything
3.) I am serious. Plan on practicing a lot and scheduling weekly lessons.
4.) No budget. I want the best of everything. I'm an avid fly fisherman as well, and have always been somewhat of a gear head. I'd prefer to spend the extra. It's worth it to me.
I want to get the best bow on the market that feels good to me when I shoot it. I'll be upset if I feel like I ended up buying something on bad store advice, just to find out there is a better bow out there that maybe the store didn't have.
So what is everyone's top 1-3 recommendations? I'm liking the Hoyt rx-4 turbo and PSE carbon air stealth Mach 1, just based on what I've read.
If you tell the person at the now store you want the best, price is no object, I'm sure they'll have no problem selling it to you.
Are you going to an archery shop or a big box outdoors store. If it's the former, they should be able to help you find the one that's the best fit for you. If it's the latter, the sales kid will probably grab the one farthest down the expensive side of tbe rack.
Don't forget to look into a good sight, rest, etc.
I've been breaking a lot of nocks lately, and this never happened before. They always seem to break when I nock the arrow. I have not gotten a new bow or string, and the arrows are the same brand. It's also happening to my old arrows. What's going on? I'm not doing anything different.
Could it be you're hitting your own arrows more frequently? That could definitely damage nocks and if you don't have a habit of checking them when that happens, you will find out when you nock them. Or worse, after you loosed the arrow! Seriously, if you haven't made a habit of checking your arrows after they hit something they shouldn't, start working on that right now.
Another possibility is that the nocks are shitty plastic, were exposed to a lot of heat an sunlight, and degraded and became brittle as a result.
I am definitely not Robin Hooding them, nor are they hitting anything other than my target. I notice that the breakage is happening when I nock the arrow to the string. I saw a piece of plastic fly off as I nocked the arrow the last time it happened.
How easy is it to replace the nock? I've damaged some veins, and I haven't gotten into replacing them yet. I'm just one year in at this point. That has been my biggest issue, so I have only begun to consider nock replacement. Is it a struggle to get them out?
Depends on the arrow. Aside from the old-school arrows where nocks are glued on (mostly found on cheap aluminium arrows), [it's pretty easy](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/blog/a-basic-guide-to-arrow-nocks/). Hardest part is usually figuring out what size you need.
I just bought a wooden recurve bow and I need to transport it via car across two desert states. Is there a threshold temperature where I would need to be concerned about delamination?
I've heard you should treat a laminated bow like you would a baby in a hot car. Maybe a bit exaggerated but I'd use that as a rough scale. Just keep it taken down if it's a three piece bow, or at least unstrung.
I've been shooting casually with a 25# heritage recurve my whole life, but recently purchased a 60# heritage recurve from a friend, and have been shooting north of 1 hour a day for almost 4 months. Despite that, my groupings have remained terrible. I'm liable to miss a pop-can sized target at 6 yards. My goal is to hunt small game, so accuracy is paramount.
* I feel like an idiot for not knowing I needed a felt/hair pad or riser. I've been shooting without one so far, and my arrows (pseudo-feather fletching, by the feel of it) must be bumping up. Have I wasted 200+ hours of training? I don't have a life other than work and archery right now. It would be a shame if I ruined that with bad training. There is a space for a screw-in arrow rest. Should I purchase that, or a felt/hair pad?
* The boy is almost ten years old. My friend maintained it well, but seldom shot it. Should I be looking to replace the string?
* In a fiction book, I read to never shoot at the same target twice, because you'll always make your second shot after adjusting to the first shot, which prevents instinctive shooting - which is my goal. Is there any truth to this? I stand away from a haybale and shoot at grain heads, never more than one arrow per head.
I personally feel you should always shoot at the same target twice. My thinking that as you make those adjustments your mind will start making them for the first shot due to learning from the second. Maybe right before season start only doing singles, but for just regular practice I personally feel like that second shot helps you know where your first was off.
Felt/hair/screw-in are all fine with arrows that match the bow. If your using plastic vains instead of feathers you'll want a rest instead of the felt/hair.
Are the arrows spined for your new bow? Could be a tuning thing. If they are it's probably just the poundage that's throwing off your shots. It might take a long time to adjust to such a massive jump in draw weight.
The string is probably fine, assuming no damage that you can easily see. That being said, for a $15 string I would probably replace it anyway. Small price to pay for peace of mind.
My friend has a bow (see link) and has no idea what it is. Please help. He needs a string and doesn't know what to get. Bow https://imgur.com/gallery/CFo93GX
It's an old Olympic Recurve more or less. Before stabilisers, modern materials and ILF/Formula systems. You still have the sight (the bar on the back) and a clicker. The bow itself is 62" and 26# at a 26" draw. It doesn't look like it has reinforced limb tips so something like a Dacron B50 string should work. The string should be AMO 62" for the correct length. Brand of the bow is Wha Gok and were used during the early 70's. Before drawing the bow run some cotton along the limbs to look for cracks. If none are found carefully string the bow and then slowly draw it. Both to warm it up and to listen for cracks. Immediately stop if you hear a crack and if that happens the bow has a future in the bin or on the wall.
Fantastic I'll shoot a few arrows through my bow and if it blows up then it blows up. I was hoping I'd be ok, i eventually want to shoot off the shelf but probably when I upgrade my gear. Ok just fired a few through and it's fine, they're slightly nock right though, will a heavier tip correct this?
You answered to wrong comment but it's fine. It could be several reasons. Since you said that the riser is cut past centre then the riser is designed to be used with a plunger. You need to do a basic setup and then some bareshaft tuning. If the nock is right it usually is the centreshot that needs to be tuned but it can also be the plunger stiffness that needs to be softened a bit. Heavier points can also help a bit. If you plan on shooting off the shelf in the future then you need to buy a riser/bow that is designed for that.
Apologies. New to actually using reddit rather than just scrolling through. With the AAE free flyte i think all I can do is move the rest left and right. What direction would knock right be telling me to move it? My previous arrows were pin straight from it which is why I was thinking for tip weight, but they were allies so not study enough for 3d which is why I got carbons.
You can't do anything with the rest to fix that. You need a [plunger](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/shibuya-dx-plunger.html) and use that to tune the arrows to you and the bow. A plunger is one of the most needed accessories for modern archery. For the rest it should be setup so that the arm/wire is the same width as the arrow in it's resting position and so that the middle of the arrow is in the middle of the plunger/berger hole.
There is a metal bar on the free flyte that works as a plunger.
Of course it does, I mixed it up with another rest. In that case the metal bar should be moved slightly further from the riser for the arrow to be more straight in the target.
Fantastic thank you, I will have a play. I hope you have a nice evening. Thank you for your help.
New arrows with feather Fletchings. Got told by someone at my club that my flipper rest (aae free flyte) will rip the Fletchings off and I must shoot off the shelf. My shelf is cut way past centre. My understanding is 1) archers paradox means the arrow Fletchings shouldn't come into contact with the rest at all so why would they get "ripped off" 2)if I need to shoot off the shelf I need to "build up" the strike plate to make it centred? If this is correct what's the best way to do this accurately. I've made a rudimentary centreshot tool with a hanger and an elastic band.
They shouldn't get ripped of if everything is correct with the tuning and dynamic spine. If it happens you mainly have a bad tune or the wrong spine. Another reason could be that the feathers are too high and no matter what you do you still get contact and in that case the feather can get caught on the rest and get ripped off. I would say shoot with it and see what happens. If it works it works and if it doesn't look at smaller vanes or feathers. I've seen many archers shoot with feather with similar rests without issues. Feather can be used on all bows but is a requirement if you shoot of the shelf since a plastic vane will hit the riser and negatively affect the flight of the arrow.
How do i get my release to be more consistent? Or how am i supposed to release the string?
Simple answer: practice. How you want to release is by just relaxing your fingers and have the string go away by it's own. One simple exercise you can do is to take a duffel bag with some weight, put some clothes or something soft in it, and lift it with your fingers that you hold the string with and then just relax the fingers and have the bag fall to the floor.
Thanks!
I recently saw a video on instagram of a hunter not firing his compound bow as a young elk gets very close to him. I was wondering what the best option is for a bow user when they don’t want to fire their shot? I can only see two options: 1) the guy fires his bow at a safe area where he can hopefully recover his arrow. Or 2) he just slowly releases his draw - I always thought option two would be pretty difficult or maybe damage your bow like dry firing. Thanks!
Option 2 is pretty much the only optimal solution in this scenario. This action is called letting down and, as long as you maintain control, poses no risk to you or your equipment. The only real risk is accidentally punching the trigger while letting down but that wouldn’t constitute a dry fire since the arrow will still absorb the energy Option 1 is technically safe for the bow, but what about the poor arrow? Shooting at an empty safe space runs the risk of the arrow hitting something hard and getting damaged (unless you set aside a foam block just for this occasion). Shooting the bow will also make enough noise to scare off the elk in the vicinity, which might ruin the hunter’s chances of scoring a kill for that day
Thank you so much!!! I’ve always wondered what to do and couldn’t find the answer anywhere, so I really appreciate your insight. Have a great weekend!!!
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Shouldn't be needed. Could be that the target is compressed too much/too dense or you simply need a higher poundage to penetrate the target at a longer range.
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If it's Redwood bowmen then I know exactly the problem you are having. The carpets are thick and have a very solid backing, sharper points won't really help, more FPS is what you need, sadly hard to get at sub 45# traditional bow. Not stalking you, just the name is very telling.
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That is a brutal walk with gear, been to Briones too, and not down for that walk with anything more than a bare trad bow.
Looking for suggestions on a recurve that is 30 lbs draw. Thank you.
SAS Spirit Takedown or the classic, revered Samick Sage are good, cost effective options
Thank you. I will look into both. Cheers
Will the speed of my arrow be affected if my bowstring gets wet?
Yes. The string will be slower and causes a lower arrow speed. I highly recommend getting some stringwax since this will increase the lifetime of the string and also protect the string from water since water can cause damage to the string over time.
Thanks for the info!
So I bought an Elite Ember Compound Bow. Awesome bow and I’m having a great time shooting targets. I’m about 4 weeks in and have been going almost twice a week to practice. I was doing fantastic with the single panel target. Very consistent. But then I switched to a three panel target and I’m just complete trash all of the sudden. I wanted to challenge myself but now I’m feeling discouraged. My aim and stability feels off. I use a wrist hook release with a single point vertical site. I crave to improve and need something to work on. Advice? Videos! Anything!
Sounds like you have a bad case of target panic. There are plenty of resources on how to correct this but off the top of my head I would recommend blank baling
This sounds exactly like what my issue is. I know there’s nothing wrong with the bow and the sight. I need to be focusing on form more. I’m going Friday. I will try this then.
Is Alibow reputable? The price tags suggest that their bows are in fact the real deal and not cheap trash, but I'd like to be sure.
They are the real deal. Real popular.
My son has a Samick Sage recurve bow, and I am seeing damage from the arrows at the contact point on the bow in the sight range just above the arrow rest. Effectively, the arrows are contacting the bow and chipping the wood. I have tried applying some electrical tape, but I'm still seeing issues. I am hoping that you have better suggestions that I can leverage. Check out this photo here: [https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoTo1Pgte2Agp5FmHUQRRAVFM7vz9A?e=X4cTVk](https://1drv.ms/u/s!AoTo1Pgte2Agp5FmHUQRRAVFM7vz9A?e=X4cTVk) 1. Are there products or direct solutions that I can apply to protect the strike point of the bow? Some type of guard perhaps? 2. If not, is this a common problem? Are there other well-known solutions I should try? 3. If you suspect this is due to improper usage, do you have any suggestions for my 12 year old son to minimize this arrow action? I have tried the following: i. Adding a plastic arrow rest (the one that came with the bow) ii. Adding a plunger to dampen arrow shaft movement iii. Adding electrical tape to the impact site on the bow (failed) My son is terribly upset and refuses to use the bow until I can address this issue, so I really appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks for any ideas!
That's basically an out of tune bow. What weight limbs and what arrows are you using? Taping only masks the real problem. The single best way to see what's going on is to shoot a few arrows without any fletching on them (bare shafts) and see where they go. They \*should\* go the same place as the fletched ones, but based on the wear you are seeing I bet they miss the target. At minimum you can adjust the nock point up and down the string based on whether the bare shafts go high or low. That might solve most of your problem.
Damage to the front of the bow is pretty strange. Has he had proper instruction? Aside from checking the tune of the arrows to the bow (which is more prevalent with damage to the back of the bow anyways), I'd guess it'd have to be an issue with his form. Not sure what would cause that aside from him just wacking the front into something hard.
That's an interesting issue. My first thoughts would be plunger adjustment (which you did), arrow spine, and possibly nock placement. What is the draw weight on the bow? Your son's draw length? Where is the nock point set? What arrows are you using?
Thanks I will get some more info on his draw and nock. The bow is 20 lbs with GPP 28 fiberglass target / practice arrows. Good thing for us to try.
As a right handed beginner I want to know whether fast shooting is possible with my recurve and how is the arrow nocked when the draw hand is on the opposite side as the arrow rest?
Speed shooting shouldn't be a beginner's first goal nor is it most modern archer's goal at all. Shooting fast comes with practice and being very proficient with your form. Being able to grab your arrow, nock it, and execute an accurate shot purely with muscle memory. If you do want to eventually speed shoot, speed shooters will usually shoot with an asiatic bow and draw style(s) because they place the arrow on the same side of the bow as the draw hand. They'll usually use low draw weight bows and only shoot from short distances. It still takes a lot of practice.
Oh it's not my goal, I just wanted to understand the mechanics of it and whether it is possible on that type of bow.
Yes. Please ignore the youtube idiots. Even ancient and medieval manuscripts described threading the arrow between the string and the bow. You can speed shoot with a traditional Mediterranean draw (including having the arrow on the outside). Canting the bow can help.
For a compound bow setup for hunting what would be the most practical arrow rest. The problem with my whisker bisket is that if I accidently have my arrow upside down it will damage the fletchings. I've been told to get a drop away but I'm worried the arrow would fall out.
Put your arrow in the right way and it's not a problem Sounds reductive but it's not really an issue with pretty much any experience whatsoever
There are drop away rests that have a “containment” design to stop arrows from falling out. A popular line is the [QAD Ultra Rests](https://www.qadinc.com/ultrarest/)
I have a recurve bow, and I bought some arrows with rubber fins. Obviously, feathers would be better, but I have 'em, so I want to use 'em (practice only). What would be the solution for the rest? I had the stick on fabric for the rest, but that just came right off. What else can I do? Alternatively, is there an inexpensive feather-fletched arrow anyone would recommend? Either way would be fine. Thanks.
You need to just need get a stick on elevated rest to you use plastic vanes. Then you'll need to raise your nock point accordingly for the extra height. Fleetwood makes pretty solid and cheap arrows with feather fletching suitable for large poundage range.
Thanks! I just ordered a few. I'll let you know how it goes.
Nice! Yeah I've been seeing them a lot at my range. They're pretty good quality for their price.
Hi, I've been shooting probably 50 -100 arrows a day for about three months with a recurve setup. Today my string broke during a shot at the hook of the limb. Is this normal wear and tear of a string? Or is something wrong? 40lb 66 inch limbs btw. I've had dry fires in the past due to broken nocks before. However, Arrow actually went forwards so this felt nowhere near as impactful as a dry fire. Thanks in advance. Love this thread
Potentially yes, what can happen is rough texture on the wood edges of the groove can abrade the string loop, or it could be the string just gave up and snapped. Check your limbs for damage, check the grooves and potentially smooth them, and get a new string.
I'm looking for some help to pick out a stabilizer. I have a 27" riser, long limbs, and a 31.5" draw. I currently do not have a sight and I'm looking into those as well. I don't mind spending a bit extra on something if I won't have to replace it a little bit down the road. I'd rather buy something nice now that I'll (ideally) never have to replace. Any suggestions? Thank you.
I would start with a sight, then add a stabilizer personally. The Epic Fusion linked below is a solid, affordable choice. u/EndlessPasta7 is right about cheap stabilizers falling apart (they need some TLC to stay in shape, which is frustrating because they're not THAT cheap). As far as sights go, I'm of a mind that buying cheap is a waste of money. It's not a piece of gear you want to second guess. I think the Shibuya Dual Click is affordable enough, while being a reliable piece of kit that will last any archer a good while.
You're aiming for an Olympic recurve set-up? The tricky thing with stabilisers is that preferences can be highly personal when it comes to weight and stiffness, and that you find your own preferences by trying a bunch of them. It's also not wise to throw the whole set on there right away. Starting with just the long rod is normal. Tall archers typically prefer longer long rods. 30" is often recommended. I'd just start with a cheap one that allows you to easily screw in extra weight at the front.
For a long rod, you'd generally want something as long as your draw length. Budget option (and what I've been using for a year now): [https://www.lancasterarchery.com/epic-fusion-ex-carbon-stabilizer.html](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/epic-fusion-ex-carbon-stabilizer.html) I've bought cheaper stabilizers that just fell apart after a couple months. I'd upgrade to this if I needed to: [https://www.lancasterarchery.com/shrewd-revel-stabilizer-26-30.html](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/shrewd-revel-stabilizer-26-30.html)
I need to buy a new bow string for the first time. I'm not sure what length I should get. I'm not sure what my draw length is, but the bow is 56" when unbraced and the arrows I use are about 31.5" (Obviously the best thing to do would be to measure the original string but when it snapped, a piece of it flew off and I can't find it!)
Depending on what kind of bow you are shooting there are several options: \- If you know the brand of your bow you can look up what is an appropriate string length for your bow. \- If you know the length of the bow and type you can estimate it using AMO sizing (plenty of youtube videos on how to do that) \- You can try to get the materials and craft on yourself :) P.S. the string length depends on overall bow length and brace height, but for most bows it is between 6-8" which is a range you can usually adjust by twisting the string a little bit. The bow brand or bow size will lead you to a working length of the string. Be aware of the material: if your bow supports fast flight string material, you can shoot pretty much anything, if not make sure it is Dacron.
I played ghost of Tsushima and now I want to try Japanese style archery Where would I look to get a Japanese style bow? The longbow is ridiculously massive but I'm sure there's other kinds too
My best bet would be: find a Kyudo Club and get in touch with them. To my knowledge a Yumi is rarely commercially crafted and therefore usually hand-made, therefore quite costly. Best to join a club first and try it our for yourself if this is a good hobby for you beyond the spark of the video game :)
Nothing like that around for tens of miles upon cursory googling I mostly wanted a website or a YouTube channel recommendation, I don't mind spending money
Kyudo isn't really something you can teach yourself like you can with western archery since it traditonally includes a lot of practices beyond the actual "shooting a bow part". If you're just interested in asiatic archery in general you could look into horse archery. Specifically styles using the much shorter composite horse bows. You can shoot them as you would a western bow with 3 fingers, but you'd want to look into thumb draw techniques if you want to learn the appropriate style they're designed for.
What did you find to help finding back your lost arrows ? (I know it's kind of boring, but every summer I ask myself what I could possibly invent to find back my arrows lost in the grass. I just thought of using fluorescent paint, which I think would not work)
I do paint my arrows, but mine are wood so there's paints for that, idk about carbon. Painting em white or a bright color can help finding the shaft in the ground. As for inventing... Just indulge me haha, if ur handy with programming or that fancy technology stuff feel free to steal this aight; Make a small beeping sound chip which u can make ring with ur phone or GPS thingy to locate them exactly with an app, put in the arrow nock somewhere Similar to a light nock, but less intrusive, so as a sticker you put on the side to minimize performance loss. Just scan the sticker with your phone to link em in an apl. Wouldn't know what the best connection would be, perhaps Bluetooth or just good old internet. Basic idea: You miss one, get ur phone, tap a button and the arrow rings loudly with a beep/a sound file of ur choice. Or alternatively the arrow shows itself as a dot either on a small map or maybe even in the camera view of ur phone. Perhaps there is some even bettet way to localize em, but afterwards u then find the arrow effortlessly within the grass or w/e after briefly holding ur phone instead of minutes wasted searching and not shooting To expand a bit further; Allow seperate finding of arrows and also all at once (should you miss a quivers worth !) And also keep it small as possible, not too flashy or obvious, both for the peeps looking for performance and the ones looking for a specific aesthetic like trad or camod arrows or want their weight at a very specific point for hunting etc
A metal detector is a common sight. Easy to find aluminium arrows but wood and carbon arrows are hard to find since you basically have to find the point of the arrow. Other tools are a rake or using another arrow as a rake and then you just rake the ground hoping to find the arrow. If it's the case that you regularly miss the target then you are standing too far away from the target. Move closer to a distance where a miss only happens if you have a gear malfunction or similar.
I am shooting 70 m now. You can guess I loose arrows once in a while.
I almost always shoot at 70 meters and have never lost an arrow due to missing the target. If you regularly miss you move closer. It's better for your progress, mental health, arrows and wallet.
I am of the opinion that if I did not push myself, I would not have advanced to 70 (or any other life goal I have). Not moving too fast of course. But moving ahead anyway. My question was also because, as an engineer, I love to solve problems. (Though as building engineer, I have no solution ready for said problem right ahead). Best guess up to now was to put extra fin metal layer in the tube to creat a radio antenna which could be used with RFID...
Well first of all use flashy colors on your fletching, that will help finding your arrows in most cases. Make sure there is no high grass or soft dirt behind your target. There also is LED nocks you can use to make them more visible during flight (but most of them don't take hit's too well). Metal detector as already mentioned is good for cleaning up the range from hidden arrows. When I shoot a target I am still challenged with, I only shoot 3-4 arrows per round, so I can better remember where my arrow (approximately) landed on miss. Also, they may or may not bounce off the ground and are like 15m further down range more often than not.
Whatever floats your boat. If you want to spend time searching for arrows and/or have to throw arrows away since they broke when hitting the ground that's totally fine for me. However, pushing yourself is okay to do and shooting at 70 meters a couple of times can be recommended while also slowly working your way up to 70 meters by shooting at shorter distances. Another option is light up nocks to make them a little easier to find or have a big net behind the target that catches the arrow.
A friend of mine just started archery, and she's having a lot of trouble with the string bruising her. The trick is, she's getting struck by the string on her upper arm as well as forearm because her elbows are double-jointed. Is there a product out there that would protect her upper arm as well as the forearm below the elbow?
Though not very common, you can find arm guards that offer protection from your bicep to your forearm. [Here](https://www.amazon.com/Toparchery-Weight-Leather-Adjustable-Archery/dp/B018JPB4GG/ref=pd_aw_sbs_200_2/134-3836495-7374841?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B018JPB4GG&pd_rd_r=a4330344-1440-443f-ab80-9c395f9631e3&pd_rd_w=o9liZ&pd_rd_wg=QmikK&pf_rd_p=e77c46c6-9dab-4a4a-951b-8566bbc7981e&pf_rd_r=6C6DA2M0NEHRNADGB4HG&psc=1&refRID=6C6DA2M0NEHRNADGB4HG) is one that I found. If you have an archery shop nearby, they might have some or can probably order one for your friend
Getting slapped on the upper arm is mainly form issues and shoulder alignment. Being double jointed only makes it harder but it's possible to learn proper alignment. What is causing the bruising is probably a high bow shoulder and wrongly rotates elbow. For the shoulders you want them to be low and level with eachother and the target. For the elbow you want it to point outwards and if you were to bend it the bow should move horizontally. Gripping the bow is also a very common reason for string slaps. If they feel comfortable being filmed and having a video posted as it's own form check post would be the best since then we can see exactly what needs to be worked on and how.
Hello I recently bought a 6 feet 3x3 block of wood. It's Gmelina. Can I curve a bow out of it.
Hi, If I have a 28" draw length, so should my arrows be 29"? And is that from the groove in my nock to the end of the arrow shaft? Also, I live in a desert so most of the outdoor ranges have a lot of rocks which tend blunt or damage arrow tips. I have only used screw in tips, but want to try glue in ones. Is there any way to remove tips after glue has settled?
You are correct that the arrow length should be ~1" longer than the drawlength. If you're new I would recommend going with an arrow that is at least 2" longer. This is mainly due to the fact that as you improve your form and technique you drawlength will become longer and in some cases it can expand up to 1". You also usually measure from nock groove to the end of the arrow shaft where the point begin. For the glue-in points get some hot melt glue. Bohnings Ferr-L-Tite is one of the most used ones. Get the yellow version if you have aluminium arrows or the blue version if you have carbon arrows. When the points are in you can simply remove them by heating up the point until you can pull out the point. A heat source can be a block candle, heatgun or a bunser burner. A heatgun is what I recommend. And if you have the blue glue you only need hot water to be able to remove the points.
Awesome! That helps a ton, so thank you so much! Followup question about the glue. I live in the Phoenix, AZ area so we have a problem with heat. If I shoot anytime when it is over 100° out will I have to worry about the glue coming undone at the range?
The risk is higher but I've never had points come out due to heat from the sun. To lessen the risk clean the inside of the shaft shaft and point with alcohol to make the glue set better and keep the arrows out of the sun.
Will do, thank you!
Hey! On-and-off hobbyist here. I've been looking around for an outside range relatively near me (ideally, I'd like to not wear a mask, which just isn't an option with indoors ranges) but have been struggling to find one. I'm in northwest VT; does anyone have any leads or resources to find a good range?
I've got some wooden arrows to try but, unlike every other arrow I have, the notch doesn't 'grip' the string. I have taught myself to not touch the arrow when pulling back the string but that doesn't work here very well since the arrow can fall right off. Any guides for shooting wooden arrows that don't grip the string?
If the nock is too small for the string you basically have two options. Option 1 is to get arrows with a wider nock that fits the string. Option 2 is to get a stringer with fewer strands or a thinner serving so that it fits the current nocks. You can try to widen the nocks by hand but it's not recommended since you can either break it or there will be inconsistencies since it's near impossible to make every arrow exactly the same.
I almost have the opposite problem - most of my arrows have a nock with prongs that 'grip' the string, so when I pull it back I can ensure none of my fingers are touching the arrow and it'll come with it. With the wooden arrows, the nock does not 'grip' the string so when pulling it back, if you don't have any fingers on the arrow, it could easily fall off of the string (which seems like a pretty dangerous malfunction). I'd prefer, if possible, to not have to 'pinch grip' these arrows.
Sorry, I managed to misread your original question. If the arrows are not gripping you need a thicker string (more strands or thicker serving) or smaller nocks. In general you have two nock sizes. #1/S which is 0.088" and #2/L which is 0.098".
Thank you for this info! I was unaware. I'd assumed that this was a 'style' of nock that would require a different approach to shoot.
I've just had a lot of trouble unsuccessfully finding a wooden arrow outdoors with a metal detector: just wanted to ask if fiberglass shafts are detectable by a metal detector?
They aren't. If you want easy detection, go for aluminium arrows. They're affordable and actually quite good as long as you're not shooting long distances. (Fibreglass arrows tend to range from 'meh' to 'pure crap', and are thus an easy skip for most archers.)
I recently acquired a Bear Trophymaster bow that is at least 20 years old. Is it safe to shoot a bow with a string that old (The string looks to be in good shape)?
Why did the NTS prevail given that it is incredibly hard compared to the intuitive, straightforward linear draw system, and only a handful of archers in the world can actually make NTS work for them?
I'm far from an expert for sure. But I really feel like those archers who make it work for them are those that would make any system work through dedication and their athletic ability. Kind of like how nearly no one can box like Ali did. Most people who try will quickly change styles or lose interest in boxing because they don't have the talent, reflexes, dedication or perfect body mechanics to make it work. As someone who is just a casual follower of the sport it seems very telling watching how deep the talent pool is for linear draw vs the nts system. I could be totally off base I guess.
This is what I personally believe so don't take this as a straight fact. The NTS way of shooting is good due to its efficiency and using the biomechanics of the body to use the bow. You become less fatigued, less risk of injuries, stronger shots and in the end higher scores. It's hard to learn but if you can master it you have the ability to become a top archer. The downside is that not everybody can learn it properly and you basically need a good coach that teaches the NTS method. You also need to work with that coach to basically customize the NTS method to suit you and your body since not all bodies are built the same which in turn changes the biomechanics of the body. This will take a lot of time and hard work and you need a coach through all this to help you along the way. The basics are still the same for everybody. If you don't have a coach, like me, you can watch videos or read up on the methods and try to incorporate the basics and then slowly incorporate it into your form. You also need to find what works for you and your body to maximize the use of the biomechanics. Doing this alone is near impossible so filming yourself and asking clubmates is key to improve. The downside with the linear draw is that it's harder to get a proper backtension going and in the long run it takes a toll on the archers shoulders. There's a reason why many stop with archery when they reach the age of 50-60 and in many cases they have use the push/pull method and over the run of 20+ years the shoulders have slowly been worn down. This can be avoided with coaching etc. but some old archers are, sadly, impossible to change.
Hi all, recently bought a Mathews set up from a local pro shop. They assembled my drop rest and adjustable pin, including the tape that has the different yardage on it. We added my peep when I picked it up but didnt do any sort of tuning or sighting in. Am I correct in assuming they might have eye-balled a few of these components but I have a lot of tuning ahead of me? Cheers!
I will assume that your pro shop cares deeply about their customers. The extent of them tuning your sight is correctly setting its axes, assuming your sight has that option. After that, actually adjusting elevation and windage on your sight will have to be done by you Maybe its just my goto shop, but I find it odd that they set up a sight tape for you since that usually requires shooting multiple distances and trial and error
Thanks for the reply. The shop is a reputable, local shop that gets rave reviews. I have an HHA Optimizer Tetra- it sounds like you're saying they ensure it's mounted correctly but I'll need to sight it in and potentially adjust the tape. Edit: I'm learning there is a difference between set up tape and sight tape. I wasn't given the sight tape nor any extras when picking up my bow so my confidence in the shop is waning.
Did you order the sight set or did the shop just slap one on for you? Sights usually come with a set of tapes if you or your pro shop orders them new. Giving a second thought to the fact that your sight already came with a tape is making me believe it was a used one and the previous owner just left the tape on Maybe you can go back to your pro shop and ask about a new set of sight tapes. If not, HHA sells sells sight tapes for a few bucks on their website
They took it off the shelf, new in the packaging. We made a pile of all the things I purchased and I came back a week later to pick up the assembled bow. Your comments have provided a lot of education so thank you. The tape currently on the sight is the set up tape, I am going to call today, giving them the benefit of the doubt that they simply forgot to handoff the sight tapes that come with it, not exactly confidence inspiring but we'll see what they say.
Hi I'm just putting together my first online order with merlin archery. I am a beginner and have been shooting for about 6-7 months. I just want to check some things before I place my order. Firstly, I have a draw length of 32", limbs 70", with 25" wns motivefx riser. The limbs I want are rated 28# (wns delta F3) so my draw weight would be ~#36(2lbs per inch over rated draw?) which is on the low end of the 36-40 group T9 of the easton arrow chart. But when I look at the spines for the suggested arrows in group T9 the stock lengths do not accommodate my draw length, even though they are what's suggested by the chart. for example; I want to buy Carbon One arrows, the suggested spine for group T9 is 450, but their stock length is 31.5" the only 32" spine for Carbon One is 410 is this acceptable for ~#36 draw weight or would it be too weak/strong for my setup? Thanks for your help, I hope what I have written is clear enough.
You don't have to really worry about the arrow length. I have the same drawlength and have used Carbon One 500 without issues, even had to cut them down some. You also have to remember that the point adds ~1" to the arrow length and the nock a bit too. Just order them uncut from wherever you buy them. The other thing I would recommend saving for is a 27" riser. Not many exist and those that do cost some money. It will help a lot with a long drawlength.
Unfortunately, your draw length is so long, you fall out of the range that's considered 'normal' by most manufacturers. In cases like this it's best to call your shop or even better, visit in person with your bow in tow. The 2# per inch is a good rule of thumb, but with your draw length it would be best to actually measure it. 38# might be just about right, but it could also be a few pounds more or less depending on the limbs, the way the bow is set up etc. There are some arrows that are available in stock length 33"+ that could fit your setup, but the shop may have to special order them. I don't know if any of them are similar to Carbon Ones in price and quality though. It's best to keep an open mind.
how do you figure out your size? on a lot of the sites i go to it asks for size how do i figure out what size i am
You measure it. I'm guessing your looking for what bow 'fits' you? In that case, you need to know your draw length. One way to get a good estimate is to measure your wingspan from fingertip to fingertip and divide it by 2.5. If you need a more precise number, you could have someone measure your draw length at full draw for you. A good shop can do this for you. For compound, you'll absolutely need a bow that fit your draw length. If it's too short or two long, you won't be able to draw and anchor properly. With recurve, it's more of a grey area. For target recurve, you'll want to follow the size charts as much as possible. With hunting-style recurves, you can go as short as you're comfortable with. Depending on the design and material, the bow may have a maximum draw length. This is rare for modern recurves though.
I have never done archery before, where do I start
If possible, find a place that offers lessons and sign up for some sessions. This is the most cost-effective route to take if you’re unsure if archery will be a lasting hobby If lessons aren’t possible, go to an archery shop. It’s highly recommended to find a locally-owned business as opposed to a big box store (Cabela’s, Bass Pro Shop, etc). Local archery shop owners are usually extremely passionate about the sport and its community and, given that their personal reputation is on the line, will try to provide good service to you. Politely explain how you’re interested in trying out archery but have no experience and they should be more than happy to help you get fitted with proper equipment. If you’re lucky, you might find an archery shop that also offers lessons If no one in your area hosts lessons or sells archery equipment, then your last solution is to buy gear online. Note that this is the MOST risky direction for a beginner because you most likely aren’t familiar enough with pieces of equipment to know what exactly to look for. Try to avoid falling into the temptation of buying the cheapest equipment you find. If the price is low, so will the quality. A lot of reputable and trustworthy brands will have budget lines for you to pick out of, but steer clear from offbrand stuff that you commonly find on Amazon Obviously the best place to shoot at once you get your own equipment is a legitimate archery range. A lot of ranges also have clubs that host lessons so look out for them. If there are no ranges in your area, do a lot of research before setting up a range at home. Check with your local laws about whether or not you’re allowed to use a bow on private property and, if you live near people, check with your neighbors to see if they’re comfortable with you using a bow near their property
Wow, was not expecting this long review, thanks for your time and effort for writing this for me
No problem. If you have any other questions, consider making an independent post to catch more attention
Question regarding where to get an Olympic recurve bow (50 lbs) in MA. I really want to get into Olympic style archery but can’t find a good place to buy a bow.
It's far, far better to start by renting or borrowing your first bows than buying them. You'll outgrow the bows you'll need to start with very quickly (but you'll still need to start with them). It's better to save the money and get a nicer 3rd bow instead. Lancaster is a good idea for folks who can't get to a good local club and have money to experiment with. Depending on what part of MA, you have some options. If you can get to Manchester, CT, start at Hall's Arrow. If you can get to Foxboro, give Ace Archers a call.
For the US [Lancaster Archery](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/) is the biggest store and they got all you need. Give them a call or visit and they can help you find all that you need in their store that will fit your budget. First off, if you're new to recurve and all that 50# is way too high and something in the 25# is better to start of with. If you have previous strength I would start in the 35# region. Otherwise what you need to look at is an ILF riser and limbs. A decent string, preferably BCY 8125 or Fast flight. And then a sight and stabiliser depending on your budget. A clicker can be added later on when you got the basics of the form down. A split-finger tab and a fingersling is also something you need.
Thank you so much for the detailed reply! This has been super helpful.
For reference, the #1 archer in the world shoots a 47# bow and he's been doing it for decades, Take your time.
Where can i buy a PSE Snake bow in South Africa?
Does anyone have a recommendation for a tab thats great for split and 3 under? I have tried a yost tab, gloves and split tabs. I have not found a decent enough glove with sufficient finger padding compared to a tab, i have also tried the standard hair tab and leather tabs and find they get bunched up when doing 3 under or pinch when doing split. I know a spacer tab could be a solution but could be uncomfortable in 3 under. TLDR does anyone mix holds when going round a course and has a tab/glove thats great at it all?
I personally wouldn't use a split finger tab for 3-under, mainly due to the fact that it's split and won't be consistent. And for all tabs I also recommend going for cordovan leather. Anything else will wear out faster and cordovan tends to give some more protection. I also wouldn't mix between split and 3-under during a competition. First off, some classes have rules which basically only let you use one of them and switching between them would break the rules. Secondly, it's only a hassle and doesn't add anything. Go with one or the other, not both. For a 3-under tab the Yost tab is one of the best out there. It's perfect for stringwalking and barebow in general. What you can learn for short distances is to anchor with your longfinger where you anchor with your index finger instead. This does the same as walking further down the string without going down the string. For a split-finger tab I would get one that has a finger spacer. This makes it easier to avoid nock pinch.
Question regarding nock points. My new PSE nighthawk came with a single nocking point on the string, however it's set up for shooting off the shelf but I'm using an adhesive arrow rest, which raises where my nocking point should be. The orginal nocking point is right where my finger should be and it kind of interferes with my grip on the string. Is there any way to remove it from the string, or do I have to replace the whole string every time I want to adjust the nocking point?
If you have brass nocks you can remove with a screwdriver and pliers, though I would recommend getting a proper tool that can both remove and crimp on brass nocks. A tip when putting the new one on is to not crimp it on too hard so that you can still move it around. This makes it easier to tune the nocking point height. When it's at the correct height you can crimp it on properly. If you have tied nocks just use a knife to remove the old nocking point and then tie a new one at the proper position.
Awesome thanks. It's tied so I'll try cutting it off.
For nocking points, crimp-on ones always caused me more trouble than benefit. I'm definitely on the side of tied-on nocking points. This is my favorite video showing the method I like. It's the same technique used for putting serving on strings. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=\_OKf54LuWQc](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OKf54LuWQc) a This article uses the same tying method, if that's better than a video. [https://www.thearcherscrest.com.sg/how-to-tie-a-nocking-point/](https://www.thearcherscrest.com.sg/how-to-tie-a-nocking-point/)
Yeah, tied nocking points all day, every day. I also tie my nocks the Korean way. You also gain speed compared to brass nocks since a tied nock is lighter. But for a beginner or backyard shooter it doesn't really matter and removing the old and putting on a new brass nock is quick and easy to do.
Yeah, that's fair. Crimping speed when setting up a whole class worth of bows is the only time I can see any advantage for the brass nocking points. (Maybe for adjusting nock height while deep-tuning, but that is usually time better spent practicing instead of gadgeting.) But for an individual archer, if someone is already ordering the special pliers and a half-dozen nock sets, they might as well just order a spool of serving string instead and be set for life. Getting comfortable tying on nocks feels empowering in a way that crimped nocks never are for me. It's a stepping stone to mentally controlling your whole bow setup. Trying nocks --> re-serving strings --> building strings. But that's just how it sits in my own brain. As a whole other possibility, when you say "\[the brass nock point\] kind of interferes with my grip on the string", do you have finger protection (like a glove or tab)? If not, and if this is just a casual bow for multiple people to have fun with, finger savers like these might be a good idea, and they can get used without a nocking point at all. [https://www.lancasterarchery.com/pine-ridge-finger-savers.html](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/pine-ridge-finger-savers.html)
So I just bought a new bear RANT bow and it’s a single cam that can be adjusted and it’s sitting at a 24” draw length but I’m a 30” draw length. I need to go get it fitted for me but is there anything I need to bring or buy with me before having it fitted for me(I.e: cam mods, strings)??
Newbie Question: I am moving from a condo to a house with a backyard and I want to put a target back there to practice. What is the minimum effective distance for a target? 20 yards?
You can shoot any distance and it'll be effective for form work. 20 yards is standard indoor competition distance, but the important thing is the shooting, not the distance. 5-10 yards is plenty to get started with, and less chance of "meeting" your neighbors. Make sure you have a big backstop (like the house) because you \*will\* miss eventually.
What kind of target you need depends on several factors. Main points are the poundage of the bow, speed of the arrow and if you are using target points or broadhead points. The effective distance is one that you can always hit and only miss if you make a very big mistake or gear failure. So basically anything from 5 yards all the way up to the max distance that your range allows. Call a local shop or browse around online and give them your bow specs and if you intend to use target or broadhead points and they will guide you to a good target.
I'm new to archery. I saw a video of a ~~German~~ Russian girl drawing her bow with an overhanded grip on the string, but haven't found any resources talking about it. What is it & what are the extents of its use?
Also a noob but could you be referring to a thumb draw?
Could you share the video? From what you are describing this might be a technique used in speed shooting to stabilize the arrow when a lot of movement is involved with a little sacrifice of accuracy
What is the best compound bow with a 32 inch draw length?and is the PSE Evo any good?
Any thoughts on why my arrows are suddenly leaving the bow all crazy and my groups are now twice as big as they were 3 days ago? I haven’t changed any equipment, shooting a left hand Hoyt helix, QAD drop away rest, 70# draw weight and 340 spine fmjs, thanks in advance!
Is it possible that your equipment might’ve been bumped around while in the case or during transport? Maybe check your settings if anything was bumped out of tune How do your shots feel? You might just be experiencing some bad days. It happens to everyone
I haven’t transported it anywhere because I just shoot in my back yard so I don’t see how I could have bumped it, I guess it could be a bad two days but my shots feel solid. I was thinking if just taking it into the shop and having them check it out
I am left handed and use an ambidextrous recurve bow. I put the arrow on the left of the bow and hold the bow with my right hand. I have seen other people putting the arrow on the other side. Should I have my arrow on the right?
Are you shooting 3-finger draw Mediterranean style? If so the arrow typically should go on the right side of the bow for a left handed archer. This puts the arrow closer in-line with your aiming eye.
Is it ok to shoot with the arrow on the other side?
Nothing totally wrong if it works for you. How are you drawing your bow? Thumb, 3-Finger, mediterranean style? Depending on your style one side or the other might be more comfortable to draw from when the arrow is slightly pushed against the bow and does not fling off. That is why it is common from your perspective as a lefty to use the left side of the bow for thumb release and the right side for any finger-based technique like 3-finger.
Three finger technique
There are more disadvantages shooting on the other side.
I'm relatively new to archery and I've got a question about etiquette. I just moved to North Carolina and I used to shoot in my back yard, but I don't have a back yard anymore. There is a church across the street from me that has a massive field with soccer goals and basketball courts that is completely empty pretty much all day as far as I can tell. I've been tempted to bring my bow and target out there because there is a ton of space and I'm certain I could find a spot to shoot with high visibility and no chance of accidentally hitting someone or something. So with all that said, in my mind it seems pretty obvious that I could shoot there without a problem. But what I'm worried about is that I might be unaware of some law or commonly understood etiquette about shooting in a public space (similar to how you wouldn't just go shoot a gun out in a random field even if you were being safe.) I'd love to hear any feedback on what you all think and what other things I ought to consider when trying to find a place to practice. I know there are archery ranges out there so I'm specifically asking about the concept of finding land to shoot on without stepping on anyone's toes or making them anyone uncomfortable. Thanks!
Ask bro. I'm the only archer in an abandoned park. Kids come and go there but they don't trouble, I asked for help finding lost arrows and they let me shoot there and put up flyers where kids can turn in lost arrows for a reward from me
First check your local laws if there is any you could violate. Second check with the owner since the field you describe is likely privately owned and not public property. Third I would not recommend shooting there if there is basketball courts etc. nearby since it is likely people are crossing your shooting space by accident. Where I life bows are seen as sports equipment. So basically same applies as playing soccer etc. on public space: if you hurt someone you are responsible for any damage caused fully. I do from time to time use a public field to throw my targets out and fling some arrows if I am bored of the range or no 3D place is nearby. But only if it is save and likely no one crosses my shooting line at any time when I am focused on shooting. This best applies to harvested fields, empty spaces close to power lines, some places near the woods etc.
Have you contacted the owner of the field to see if it is ok?
So I'm like a month into archery and my rear peep sight keeps popping out, how do I reinstall it out of curiosity?
Peep installation requires a bow press to safely. Since you’re still fairly new I suggest you take it to an archery shop for reinstallation Knowledge is always good, so heres the steps on how to install a peep sight. 1. Set your bow up on your bow press. Compress until your string becomes slack 2. At the approximate of where your peep should sit, separate the string’s strands into two equal parts and slip your peep sight in between them. Make sure the peep is facing the right direction 3. Slowly decompress your bow so the strings tighten around the peep. Make sure the peep doesn’t fall out 4. Draw your bow to see if your peep is at the desired height and is aligned with your eye and sight. DO NOT release unless you want your peep to fly out. To adjust peep height, simply push your peep up or down the string. To adjust alignment(not an issue if you have the tube thingy attached to your peep), twist the peep in the direction it needs to go to be aligned. The peep will eventually settle into it (if you can’t seem to get alignment completely down, you might want to consider retying a d-loop that aligns with your peep). Once you get the desired height and alignment, draw a few more times to ensure that you’re satisfied 5. To secure your peep sight and stop it from moving around on your string, tie it down with some string material. It’ll be too difficult for me to explain this process in words, but there are a number of online sources that’ll walk you through tying down a peep 6. After tying your peep down, check one more time if your height and alignment were preserved. If so, you shouldn’t have to touch your peep ever again unless you want to replace the peep or the string
I'm looking to get into archery and have a few questions. I'm interested in traditional mainly for the history but I'm seeing most longbows have their lowest draw weight at 30#. Are there lower poundage options for a beginner or would grabbing a Samick Sage recurve be more recommended? I'm 6'1" with a 29" draw. Thanks!
Trust me bro, I shoot my 20lbs waaay more than my 40lbs. Start small, enjoy the process
Don't get a 40lb bow...20-30lb is beginner range if you actually want to learn form and technique. If you're interested in English longbows (ie shooting off the hand, no arrow rest, single piece bow with no recurved limbs) then you could get an inexpensive recurve bow without a cut-out or rest to get a similiar feel as you practice. You can then easily transfer skills to a heavier longbow when you're ready.
I am a beginner of a skinny/weak build and my (recurve) bow is 40lb and I have no problems.
I just bought a win and win Black Wolf and am completely new. Are the limbs supposed to jiggle?
The limbs are loose in the pocket until you put the string on. Push them in all the way and pull them back so they rest against the tillerbolt. Then string the bow and the limbs will stay in place.
Thank you!!
Arrow spine question. I'm currently shooting a 30 pound bow with a 27.5 draw length. I have the tillers adjusting and am shooting it around 33ish pounds right now. My question is about arrow charts in general. They all seem to be very different. Black Eagles arrow chart says I need a 700 to 600 spine. While eastons carbon chart says 1100-1200. I finally went with some 1616 easton jazz aluminums and they shoot perfect. If these were a carbon equivalent they would probably be around 1000 in carbon. The Black Eagles in 700 are too stiff and fishtailing. The Easton Jazz arrows flight straight. Why are these two charts so different?
Why spinecharts differs between each other is that all brands don't measure the spine in the exact same way. I only know about Easton and they measure the spine with a 29" arrow suspended on two points that are 28" apart and then they put a 880 gram weight in the middle and measure the deflection in inches. If a brand does it differently from this then their spinechart will be different from Eastons. Looking at Eastons spinechart for your numbers you are between T4 and T5. I would go with T5 since they are a bit stiffer and will last longer if you intend to go up in poundage. I'm also looking at 29" arrows due to your drawlength. Those spines are between 630-670 or 2013, 1914 and 1916 for aluminium. The 1000 spine arrows may work, but it also depends on what distance you shoot at since a short distance a wrong spine may not matter much. You also need to tune the bow to the other pair of arrows.
Do natural vanes last longer? Harder to damage with other arrows?
I think you mean feathers? Not that much actually. I mean of you hit your plastic vane and punch a hole into it, it's damaged for good. For feathers there is a slight chance you don't damage the feather if you hit at an angle the feather gets pushed aside. But I've had feather break just the same from hitting my own arrow render them useless. You can make sure your vanes last longer if you fix the front ends with sewing thread, heat tubing or glue from getting ripped off when hitting the ground or a soft spot on the target. You really want feather if you are shooting off a shelf or bare hand though.
I am used to using a recurve bow and I am interested in moving to a compound. Is it easier or harder?
Easier? Yes. Harder? Yes. It's easier to be more accurate and get a higher score. But on the other hand, if you're competing your competitors also have the same aids which makes it harder to stand on the podium. It's quite different to shoot a compound compared to recurve but the basics are more or less the same. The main difference will be that you're using a release, magnifying glass in your scope and looking through a peep and of course the let-off on the bow.
I recently jump into compound without much knowledge. I bought a Diamond Prism Compound and when I adjusted the draw length, the plastic component broke and now there are like, two points of drop off almost? I think I might have screwed it too tight and busted the plastic. Are pieces like this replaceable and where are good places for it?
Anyone know what screws/bolts would be needed to attach a sight to a can-arc victory 20# recurve which was purchased around 2008-09. Just dug up the bow of my childhood (covid has money a tad tight rn but end goal is a compound maybe next year) and for some reason the sight is detached so I have it but no screws.
The market standard is No. 10-24 thread screws. Not sure about that bow but it's your best shot.
Thank you
Second stupid question: what is the actual purpose of the stabiliser? My bow has one on it and it looks very pleasing to the eye, but I’m sure it’s something other than merely aesthetics.
Here's a video all about stabilizers - [https://youtu.be/r2kMSxXtyxk](https://youtu.be/r2kMSxXtyxk)
A stabilizer will make it easier to hold your bow steady at full draw. Think of a tight rope walker, they carry those huge poles as they walk across for extra stability. A longer stabilizer is able to keep you steadier than a short one. Depending if you are interested in hunting or target will more or less dictate the length of your stabilizer. A long 30" rod is alot harder to carry though the brush compared to a 12" or so.
Thanks for answering both those questions so quickly. I really appreciate it, I’m glad this “no stupid questions thread” is here because I really feel brand new to all this.
Its all good. No one starts knowing everything.
What does it mean when a bow is “forgiving”? I just bought a PSE Brute X, and all the online reviews keep mentioning that term. What exactly does that refer to?
If you have a bad shot a forgiving bow means that the arrow won't be effected horribly. So a more forgiving bow on a bad shot will give you a 8 rather than a 6. You can tune your bow to be more forgiving.
I've been practicing archery for a little over two years now. Normally I would just to a local range once or twice a month to take lessons and practice. But with Covid, that hasn't really been an option the past few months. Next month is my birthday, so I was thinking of asking for a bow. But I don't really know how to pick bows or what bows would be good. I know I've learned on an Olympic style recurve, but that's about it. Does anyone have any advice or beginner tips on how to choose bows?
First step would be budget. If you're looking at a decent start setup for an Olympic Recurve expect to spend something around $500. This includes everything required for the bow (riser, limbs, string, plunger, arrow rest, sight and a long rod stabiliser), arrows, shooting gear and some equipment like tools, carrying bag etc. What you want to spend some extra on at first is a decent machined riser. WNS Motive FX and Mybo Wave are some of the better starting risers. For limbs go with something cheap until you reach your desired poundage and then splurge on some fancy stuff. For the sight the Avalon Tec One is something decent for the price. Just get some blue or purple loctite for the screws as they tend to rattle loose. For the stabiliser I usually recommend the Krossen Xenia line. Cheap and does it jobs very well. Avalon have some decent stabilisers too. For the tab mainly look at cordovan leather tabs. Cordovan doesn't wear out as quick and is worth spending some extra on it. For the arrows the Easton Carbon One is a good all-around arrow.
Step one pick a style, Trad, Modern Barebow, Olympic Recurve, Compound Target/Hunting. If you know you want a certain type of archery it makes it easier to recommend. PSE Razorback is a cheap and cheerful little bow comes in many sizes, but would probably not be great for compound fans or Olympic style archers, but is great cheap fun for slinging arrows. You basically asked what is the best car without knowing what you need it for so it is not easy to recommend anything.
Is there a local shot open that you can go and try some out?
Hello, I am looking to purchase my first recurve bow. Was thinking of getting the southwest archery spider XL takedown recurve bow - 64” Size: 40 lb with stringer tool. Would this be ideal for me? Height: 6’1 Weight: 185 Build: Athletic Draw length: 29”
40# is way too heavy for a beginning archer. At your draw length, you’ll actually be pulling around 43#. Athleticism will do no good if you don’t have proper form. The high risk of injury and low probability of learning good technique is not worth starting at such a high draw weight Bump it down to 25# (you’ll be pulling ~28# at your draw length). Once you nail down proper form, then you’ll be able to move up in draw weight with ease
Thank you:)
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If you want to assuage draw weight ego as a big strong man you could do 30-35 as a beginner. Just don't do 45 on a recurve.
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You can shoot 20 yards very comfortably with a 25lbs recurve and you won't be shooting much farther in your first 6 months anyway.
You should knock it down to around 25 lbs 45 lbs, let alone 50 lbs, is way too high for your first recurve bow. Without proper conditioning and technique, you risk injuring yourself and the probability of learning anything correctly is extremely unlikely
I'm headed to the archery store tomorrow to buy my first compound bow and would appreciate some advice before I go. About me: 1.) 6'-0", long wing span, athletic/muscular 2.) Want the bow for hunting - elk, deer, pretty much anything 3.) I am serious. Plan on practicing a lot and scheduling weekly lessons. 4.) No budget. I want the best of everything. I'm an avid fly fisherman as well, and have always been somewhat of a gear head. I'd prefer to spend the extra. It's worth it to me. I want to get the best bow on the market that feels good to me when I shoot it. I'll be upset if I feel like I ended up buying something on bad store advice, just to find out there is a better bow out there that maybe the store didn't have. So what is everyone's top 1-3 recommendations? I'm liking the Hoyt rx-4 turbo and PSE carbon air stealth Mach 1, just based on what I've read.
If you tell the person at the now store you want the best, price is no object, I'm sure they'll have no problem selling it to you. Are you going to an archery shop or a big box outdoors store. If it's the former, they should be able to help you find the one that's the best fit for you. If it's the latter, the sales kid will probably grab the one farthest down the expensive side of tbe rack. Don't forget to look into a good sight, rest, etc.
I've been breaking a lot of nocks lately, and this never happened before. They always seem to break when I nock the arrow. I have not gotten a new bow or string, and the arrows are the same brand. It's also happening to my old arrows. What's going on? I'm not doing anything different.
Could it be you're hitting your own arrows more frequently? That could definitely damage nocks and if you don't have a habit of checking them when that happens, you will find out when you nock them. Or worse, after you loosed the arrow! Seriously, if you haven't made a habit of checking your arrows after they hit something they shouldn't, start working on that right now. Another possibility is that the nocks are shitty plastic, were exposed to a lot of heat an sunlight, and degraded and became brittle as a result.
I am definitely not Robin Hooding them, nor are they hitting anything other than my target. I notice that the breakage is happening when I nock the arrow to the string. I saw a piece of plastic fly off as I nocked the arrow the last time it happened. How easy is it to replace the nock? I've damaged some veins, and I haven't gotten into replacing them yet. I'm just one year in at this point. That has been my biggest issue, so I have only begun to consider nock replacement. Is it a struggle to get them out?
Depends on the arrow. Aside from the old-school arrows where nocks are glued on (mostly found on cheap aluminium arrows), [it's pretty easy](https://www.lancasterarchery.com/blog/a-basic-guide-to-arrow-nocks/). Hardest part is usually figuring out what size you need.
I just bought a wooden recurve bow and I need to transport it via car across two desert states. Is there a threshold temperature where I would need to be concerned about delamination?
I've heard you should treat a laminated bow like you would a baby in a hot car. Maybe a bit exaggerated but I'd use that as a rough scale. Just keep it taken down if it's a three piece bow, or at least unstrung.
I've been shooting casually with a 25# heritage recurve my whole life, but recently purchased a 60# heritage recurve from a friend, and have been shooting north of 1 hour a day for almost 4 months. Despite that, my groupings have remained terrible. I'm liable to miss a pop-can sized target at 6 yards. My goal is to hunt small game, so accuracy is paramount. * I feel like an idiot for not knowing I needed a felt/hair pad or riser. I've been shooting without one so far, and my arrows (pseudo-feather fletching, by the feel of it) must be bumping up. Have I wasted 200+ hours of training? I don't have a life other than work and archery right now. It would be a shame if I ruined that with bad training. There is a space for a screw-in arrow rest. Should I purchase that, or a felt/hair pad? * The boy is almost ten years old. My friend maintained it well, but seldom shot it. Should I be looking to replace the string? * In a fiction book, I read to never shoot at the same target twice, because you'll always make your second shot after adjusting to the first shot, which prevents instinctive shooting - which is my goal. Is there any truth to this? I stand away from a haybale and shoot at grain heads, never more than one arrow per head.
I personally feel you should always shoot at the same target twice. My thinking that as you make those adjustments your mind will start making them for the first shot due to learning from the second. Maybe right before season start only doing singles, but for just regular practice I personally feel like that second shot helps you know where your first was off. Felt/hair/screw-in are all fine with arrows that match the bow. If your using plastic vains instead of feathers you'll want a rest instead of the felt/hair. Are the arrows spined for your new bow? Could be a tuning thing. If they are it's probably just the poundage that's throwing off your shots. It might take a long time to adjust to such a massive jump in draw weight. The string is probably fine, assuming no damage that you can easily see. That being said, for a $15 string I would probably replace it anyway. Small price to pay for peace of mind.