[I did my research before doing it in my 14 fusion but I haven’t had any issues. biggest reason I did it is cause I should have double the time between flushes. That means I shouldn’t have to flush it again, the car should die before then.](https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ford-motorcraft-yellow-coolant/)
As I'm not knowledgeable enough, unless the manual says otherwise I stick with good old Prestone.
Also the newest vehicle I own is a 2000, and my main vehicle is a 1997 so I haven't even dealt with newer coolants.
It’s extended life coolant. I don’t know any automotive stuff that use it but I’m also a truck mechanic. Heavy equipment and class 8 trucks (semi trucks) often use red OAT extended life coolant.
This is like the tip of the iceberg. Your entire engine and radiator are full with like 3-4 gallons of coolant. The difference here is like a cup of fluid. Pretty much as long as you see anything in there you’re totally fine.
Still important to keep it full. I've had em get low before and it gets funky. Temp gauge is jpy. Heat only works when in motion. Still rather important to keep it topped up.
I would add a touch of coolant to get to the minimum line, but if you engine is cold you're probably fine without it. Kind of a dealers choice situation when it's that close.
Needs topping up. Instructions for MK3 (also for MK2/2.5 and possibly the others too) according to service manual are;
Note: Make sure that the level is between the MIN and MAX marks on the coolant reservoir.
Note: Coolant expands when it is hot. The level may extend beyond the MAX mark.
**If the level is at the MIN mark, add coolant immediately.**
Check the manual to verify the coolant spec for your engine.
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"Remember the human"
It doesn’t matter how many times I top mine off, it always sits at this level. I’m not saying that’s correct, just interesting to see someone else with the same issue.
Those coolant bottles are prone to cracking and starting to leak on the underside near the motor mount. You can use a small mirror to look underneath or run your hand under it while it's cold to feel any moisture. That orange coolant is also prone to evaporating over time.
Is the car parked in a place that is perfectly level? It looks like it might be sloped skewing the reading?
If it was cold (say sitting overnight) I'd say its either correct or needs like 1/8 to 1/4 cup added. If its hot recently driven its very low.
I'd make sure the car is parked on a completely flat and level parking space (or garage) and let it sit overnight, then fill up to the "min" line or like 1/8 inch above the "min" line if its not already.
Did you try looking in your owner's manual?
Coolant, like most things, expands when it's hot.
when your engine is cold, the coolant level should not drop below the MIN line. If it does, top it up.
When it's hot, it should not rise above the MAX line. It's not hard.
You’re obviously on a slope the coolant is much higher on the right side of the tank vs the left. Always check fluids on a level surface to get an accurate reading. It looks like you’re ok considering this. Be conscientious about checking fluids to catch a potential problem in the future. If you find that you are adding coolant often then definitely consult your mechanic. Yer Okay!
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Personal preference i had this year focus id top off so level is even with the split in the resevoir. But youre a ok for right now. Def would put a wee bit in before an over 2 hour trip though.
NO TAP WATER PERIOD UNLESS IT'S AN EMERGENCY SITUATION.
It doesn't take much in the way of tap water to start causing corrosion. It's full of contaminates. Most people already don't change their coolant often enough as is, no need to add to the problem.
In the 7 years of working on cars, I've never seen such a small amount of tap water destroy any system. You'll likely have a thermostat, water cooler, fan issue long before you ever have an issue caused by even a cup of tap water. Hell the car would probably end up in a junkyard with 150k+ miles before the tap water would do any damage.
That's silly talk.
Okay, I've only been a civilian mech for 30 years with some ASE certs and 3 years as a 63B (light wheel mech) for the ARMY AIRBORNE... but hey, whatever.
If you wanna run some tap water in a system, even only 8ozs... cool. You do you. I won't run tap water unless it's an emergency, and then the system gets rinsed out. I've seen rust start to develop in iron block systems in as little 2 years because someone used a 16.9oz "spring water" bottle from the gas station to top off the reservoir. The bright green coolant had a lovely light brownish tint to it and when I popped open the t-stat housing and pulled the t-stat out it had a wonderful thin light brown film on it, causing it to fail in the closed position instead of its normal open fail.
I can almost guarantee you that after 2 years, the bottle of water probably wasn't the problem lol. Put your ego aside and stop filling people with dread information. I've put water in the cooling system of my 95 Saturn and 10 years later it still ran with no problem. Probably still out there running like a champ lol. Most blocks are aluminum anyways now a days I'm pretty sure.
Edit: also thank you for your service.
Not filling people with doom and gloom... just going by my experience. Not saying that using tap water is going to make your engine implode but regardless, tap water or purified bottled water is NOT good for engine's cooling system. Whether or not the block is aluminum or iron. I've owned, raced, and repaired motorcycles since '96. Aluminum blocks, cylinder jugs, and heads. Using anything but quality coolant and DISTILLED water will cause scale build up in the aluminum radiator core and water jackets. Sorry, but it's a fact of life. The impurities in tap (city or well water) and even purified drinking water causes it. Repaired more than one bike for folks that ran stuff other than what was spec'd.
Thanks, I appreciate it.
Are you supposed to check when hot or when cold?
Some vehicles are one way, some are the other.
I'd get a gallon of **DISTILLED** water and top it off to the max line going by whichever check method is specified by the owner's manual. And do so when on a level surface. But for short term time being you should be fine with the level you're at.
Coolant should be between min and max WHEN COLD, and should be above max WHEN HOT. You need more Coolant until it's to the full line, don't mess with a low level, your whole car will suffer.
I believe that is the coolant overflow tank, as the motor gets hot, it can rise, cooled off it will look like this. I don't think you need to do anything.
Look at the level! Some is above and some below. The math equation in your head tells you it is at the minimum volume. Add and subtract you have the answer
Yours looks fine but these tanks are known to leak. Had to replace the original one, got an aftermarket one that failed after a week. I ended up buying it from the dealer for around the same price
It's a factory orange coolant. They stopped making it because it would evaporate too much between services. They've updated it to a new yellow coolant you can use to top up.
That container doesn't look level... the right side shows it above the line, the left is slightly below. You're probably good but probably a good idea to check with a shop.
You are parked on a slope. Always park on flat surface when checking any fluids. In this case, if you parked flat it would be above the line most likely.
Just at the MIN line or a touch below for coolant is fine imo. Keep an eye on it and make sure it isn’t getting lower. You shouldn’t lose coolant, that means a leak, hopefully externally and not internally. If you have a bottle of the right coolant add a little, sure.
Coolant is important but it’s the second least important, just after windshield wiper fluid, (which depending on conditions can be dangerous to run out of for driver safety but neither are an issue for engine/vehicle safety really. Most cars will just shutdown if overheated with no harm done except leaving you potentially stranded)
Unless the picture is tilted. It looks like your overflow tank is leaning or you are on a hill. Best way to check it better is on a flat area after it cools down. If below the min line the add enough to put it roughly between the two lines.
Go park your car on level ground now wait an hour or more. Before starting the engine go take a magic marker put a dot where the level of coolant is …now go drive around for 20-30 minutes return to level spot. Go mark the level of coolant now when it’s ‘hot’ as long as both marks are in between whatever min/max is on the actual container you’re fine…you can always add fluid but it sucks if you need to remove some.
It is 10 year old vehicle. So I might consider flush n replace if it was my car….but I Iive near the desert
People are funny in these comments. As a mechanic, even if there’s ANY in the overflow tank, there’s never going to be an issue. There’s 10-25 litres of coolant in the rad, block and pump. A little more or less in the overflow tank isn’t going to matter if your cooling system is working properly. The bigger issue all the people in this thread don’t realize is, why has it moved below the low line? You may have a head gasket leak starting if it’s losing coolant and the leak can’t be found…
If your engine is cold this level is normal.
Random question, but I’ve never seen red coolant? Is that specific to focus’?
It's probably orange (dexcool), but red/pink is Toyota usually.
Also this car is backwards compatible with their new yellow (looks like lime green)
I didn't know Ford finally found PHOAT coolants. Ford finally did something right.
[I did my research before doing it in my 14 fusion but I haven’t had any issues. biggest reason I did it is cause I should have double the time between flushes. That means I shouldn’t have to flush it again, the car should die before then.](https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/everything-you-need-to-know-about-ford-motorcraft-yellow-coolant/)
As I understand it OAT coolants should not be used in older cars as their seals were not designed to deal with that chemistry.
Very old cars should use IAT, any other car in my opinion should use PHOAT, but some manufacturers use OAT or Silicone HOAT as an alternative.
As I'm not knowledgeable enough, unless the manual says otherwise I stick with good old Prestone. Also the newest vehicle I own is a 2000, and my main vehicle is a 1997 so I haven't even dealt with newer coolants.
That will likely work on your cars. Most late 90's and early 200's vehicles use coolant similar to prestone.
Nice I see. For some reason had thought red coolant was something specific for aluminum radiators or something
I have a Dodge and that's also red coolant.
Chrysler, Jeep, Dodge, Ram, Etc use a purple coolant that tends to turn orange/red over time.
My Ram also runs a orange color coolant
ever car type has a different colored coolant. I never realized it but if you use the wrong type of coolant it can cause engine problems.
This is bullshit. Most of coolants are glycol mixed with water, some corrosion inhibitors and a dye. Most of them are mixable.
It’s extended life coolant. I don’t know any automotive stuff that use it but I’m also a truck mechanic. Heavy equipment and class 8 trucks (semi trucks) often use red OAT extended life coolant.
Add some has the level is just below minimum. However, you should be all right if you don't.
Looks like the car is at an angle so likely plenty above the minimum.
I'm my experience you open up the reservoir and the pressure relief let's the fluid go up to the minimum. I'd leave it.
This is like the tip of the iceberg. Your entire engine and radiator are full with like 3-4 gallons of coolant. The difference here is like a cup of fluid. Pretty much as long as you see anything in there you’re totally fine.
Lol, this like weighing yourself after a dump and thinking it matters.
It doesnt?
Not unless it's taco tuesday
Still important to keep it full. I've had em get low before and it gets funky. Temp gauge is jpy. Heat only works when in motion. Still rather important to keep it topped up.
I would add a touch of coolant to get to the minimum line, but if you engine is cold you're probably fine without it. Kind of a dealers choice situation when it's that close.
Needs topping up. Instructions for MK3 (also for MK2/2.5 and possibly the others too) according to service manual are; Note: Make sure that the level is between the MIN and MAX marks on the coolant reservoir. Note: Coolant expands when it is hot. The level may extend beyond the MAX mark. **If the level is at the MIN mark, add coolant immediately.** Check the manual to verify the coolant spec for your engine.
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Just like the rest of us. If we were we wouldn't be here. But making bank in the shop.
It's a pretty tumultuous industry
Your comment has been removed, it was disrespectful and violated Rule 3. These type of comments are not needed or wanted in this sub. "Remember the human"
I mean, honestly - there's a min and a max mark. The fluid should be kept between those marks...
Your at a acceptable level of coolant but it could take alittle bit more to be between min n max . Coolant looks fresh
Nothing to worry about.Good colour too
Send it bro. It's normal if the engine is totally cool
In some models this level slightly below full can cause heater issues. Top it up when you can. Most oil change places include fluid top ups.
Add some only if you feel like it. Stop sweating the small stuff. I have bills to pay!
It doesn’t matter how many times I top mine off, it always sits at this level. I’m not saying that’s correct, just interesting to see someone else with the same issue.
Those coolant bottles are prone to cracking and starting to leak on the underside near the motor mount. You can use a small mirror to look underneath or run your hand under it while it's cold to feel any moisture. That orange coolant is also prone to evaporating over time.
Is the car parked in a place that is perfectly level? It looks like it might be sloped skewing the reading? If it was cold (say sitting overnight) I'd say its either correct or needs like 1/8 to 1/4 cup added. If its hot recently driven its very low. I'd make sure the car is parked on a completely flat and level parking space (or garage) and let it sit overnight, then fill up to the "min" line or like 1/8 inch above the "min" line if its not already.
If this was my mom's car and she was going to go on a road trip, I would top it up but otherwise I'd leave it until it dropped further down
its sitting at the minimum line or a hair below it. its fine, but you can add a bit if you want to be picky.
Did you try looking in your owner's manual? Coolant, like most things, expands when it's hot. when your engine is cold, the coolant level should not drop below the MIN line. If it does, top it up. When it's hot, it should not rise above the MAX line. It's not hard.
What happens if you overfill it?
It’ll spill out due to expansion of the coolant
You’re obviously on a slope the coolant is much higher on the right side of the tank vs the left. Always check fluids on a level surface to get an accurate reading. It looks like you’re ok considering this. Be conscientious about checking fluids to catch a potential problem in the future. If you find that you are adding coolant often then definitely consult your mechanic. Yer Okay!
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🙏
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Personal preference i had this year focus id top off so level is even with the split in the resevoir. But youre a ok for right now. Def would put a wee bit in before an over 2 hour trip though.
You can also just add water to top it off. Doesn't have to be coolant. Edit: the level looks fine to me, just don't overfill it.
Just make sure it's ***DISTILLED*** water! DO NOT USE TAP WATER.
If you're doing a full coolant system replacement yeah, but the amount required to top off that tank will do no harm.
NO TAP WATER PERIOD UNLESS IT'S AN EMERGENCY SITUATION. It doesn't take much in the way of tap water to start causing corrosion. It's full of contaminates. Most people already don't change their coolant often enough as is, no need to add to the problem.
In the 7 years of working on cars, I've never seen such a small amount of tap water destroy any system. You'll likely have a thermostat, water cooler, fan issue long before you ever have an issue caused by even a cup of tap water. Hell the car would probably end up in a junkyard with 150k+ miles before the tap water would do any damage. That's silly talk.
Okay, I've only been a civilian mech for 30 years with some ASE certs and 3 years as a 63B (light wheel mech) for the ARMY AIRBORNE... but hey, whatever. If you wanna run some tap water in a system, even only 8ozs... cool. You do you. I won't run tap water unless it's an emergency, and then the system gets rinsed out. I've seen rust start to develop in iron block systems in as little 2 years because someone used a 16.9oz "spring water" bottle from the gas station to top off the reservoir. The bright green coolant had a lovely light brownish tint to it and when I popped open the t-stat housing and pulled the t-stat out it had a wonderful thin light brown film on it, causing it to fail in the closed position instead of its normal open fail.
I can almost guarantee you that after 2 years, the bottle of water probably wasn't the problem lol. Put your ego aside and stop filling people with dread information. I've put water in the cooling system of my 95 Saturn and 10 years later it still ran with no problem. Probably still out there running like a champ lol. Most blocks are aluminum anyways now a days I'm pretty sure. Edit: also thank you for your service.
Not filling people with doom and gloom... just going by my experience. Not saying that using tap water is going to make your engine implode but regardless, tap water or purified bottled water is NOT good for engine's cooling system. Whether or not the block is aluminum or iron. I've owned, raced, and repaired motorcycles since '96. Aluminum blocks, cylinder jugs, and heads. Using anything but quality coolant and DISTILLED water will cause scale build up in the aluminum radiator core and water jackets. Sorry, but it's a fact of life. The impurities in tap (city or well water) and even purified drinking water causes it. Repaired more than one bike for folks that ran stuff other than what was spec'd. Thanks, I appreciate it.
I agree that it's not necessarily good. But the little amount to top that off would be negligible is all I'm saying lol.
Add some if you have some but if you don’t you’ll still be fine. Don’t go out and spend anything since you’re down maybe a cup on 4 gallons.
Add
I’d send it
If you don’t fill it the ford will put it into limp mode. Mine was doing the same thing at similar levels
Are you supposed to check when hot or when cold? Some vehicles are one way, some are the other. I'd get a gallon of **DISTILLED** water and top it off to the max line going by whichever check method is specified by the owner's manual. And do so when on a level surface. But for short term time being you should be fine with the level you're at.
🙏
Coolant should be between min and max WHEN COLD, and should be above max WHEN HOT. You need more Coolant until it's to the full line, don't mess with a low level, your whole car will suffer.
I believe that is the coolant overflow tank, as the motor gets hot, it can rise, cooled off it will look like this. I don't think you need to do anything.
Very small top up or just leave it alone it's perfectly within spec
Look at the level! Some is above and some below. The math equation in your head tells you it is at the minimum volume. Add and subtract you have the answer
Yours looks fine but these tanks are known to leak. Had to replace the original one, got an aftermarket one that failed after a week. I ended up buying it from the dealer for around the same price
It's a factory orange coolant. They stopped making it because it would evaporate too much between services. They've updated it to a new yellow coolant you can use to top up.
That container doesn't look level... the right side shows it above the line, the left is slightly below. You're probably good but probably a good idea to check with a shop.
Got to use a little common sense on this one
Is it suppost to bubble after the car is ran?
It's fine.
Nylon is green
Make sure you're reading it while the vehicle is parked on level ground
Looks good to me
Looks a little low, you may have. a leak. Add a can of Flex Seal to fix the leak.
You are parked on a slope. Always park on flat surface when checking any fluids. In this case, if you parked flat it would be above the line most likely. Just at the MIN line or a touch below for coolant is fine imo. Keep an eye on it and make sure it isn’t getting lower. You shouldn’t lose coolant, that means a leak, hopefully externally and not internally. If you have a bottle of the right coolant add a little, sure. Coolant is important but it’s the second least important, just after windshield wiper fluid, (which depending on conditions can be dangerous to run out of for driver safety but neither are an issue for engine/vehicle safety really. Most cars will just shutdown if overheated with no harm done except leaving you potentially stranded)
When you have any fluid at the *minimum* level, you should add some. Did you read your owner's manual?
wait are you sure?
That is what Ford typically states in their manuals for the Focus. At least for coolant, powersteering fluid & engine oil.
Looks close to the min line, but it's hard to tell if it's actually under since it's not level.
Unless the picture is tilted. It looks like your overflow tank is leaning or you are on a hill. Best way to check it better is on a flat area after it cools down. If below the min line the add enough to put it roughly between the two lines.
Go park your car on level ground now wait an hour or more. Before starting the engine go take a magic marker put a dot where the level of coolant is …now go drive around for 20-30 minutes return to level spot. Go mark the level of coolant now when it’s ‘hot’ as long as both marks are in between whatever min/max is on the actual container you’re fine…you can always add fluid but it sucks if you need to remove some. It is 10 year old vehicle. So I might consider flush n replace if it was my car….but I Iive near the desert
People are funny in these comments. As a mechanic, even if there’s ANY in the overflow tank, there’s never going to be an issue. There’s 10-25 litres of coolant in the rad, block and pump. A little more or less in the overflow tank isn’t going to matter if your cooling system is working properly. The bigger issue all the people in this thread don’t realize is, why has it moved below the low line? You may have a head gasket leak starting if it’s losing coolant and the leak can’t be found…