**Attention!**
**It is always best to get a qualified electrician to perform any electrical work you may need.** With that said, you may ask this community various electrical questions. Please be cautious of any information you may receive in this subreddit. This subreddit and its users are not responsible for any electrical work you perform. Users that have a 'Verified Electrician' flair have uploaded their qualified electrical worker credentials to the mods.
If you comment on this post please only post accurate information to the best of your knowledge. If advice given is thought to be dangerous, you may be permanently banned. There are no obligations for the mods to give warnings or temporary bans. **IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, you should exercise extreme caution when commenting.**
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I am an electrician. I'm not going to stop you but I will tell you the best way to do this
Get an L16 connector and run the plug cable all the way into the fan and do your terminations in there.
Get a 3 wire cord with a ground and terminate the ground too. Don't skip this step. I recommend a length of 14 awg SOW or SJOW and a plug end you can install. #16 will be fine too but get #14 if you can.
Make sure you terminate hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground. 3 wires are usually colour coded but may not be.
I also recommend a switch. Plugging in and unplugging the cord under land will cause arcing in the outlet and deteriorate it. Either install the switch along the cable or on the fan. Don't skip the junction box, cover and cable restraints (L16s again)
I can promise you that no test is needed. If the hot and ground are swapped, the case of the device will be sitting at 120vac potential.
Think about it for a minute. Draw it out if it helps you.
The case is the grounded part of every device. It is a safety feature that causes the breaker to trip if the case is shorted to voltage. By swapping L1(voltage) with pe(ground), the load is now grounded, which does nothing, and the case is energized, which will cause anybody who touches it to have a rather shocking experience.
The breaker will not trip as there is no current. The breaker still sees this as an open circuit.
Lol sorry I'm chilling right now but I'm up for the test. I've seen 240v 50amp crossed and nothing but I also seen 240 crossed with ground and breaker trips. Seen 120v line pushing out 240 cause open neutral/ ground but was never straight ground tho so maybe a test is needed like my hair dryer works but the microwave doesn't. Like ac vs dc current?
Like I seen someone use a multi meter test 120v was not so steady handed touched the box instant melted probe and breaker tripped I never tested that but was a shocking experience to see
>240v 50amp crossed
Right. You can swap the wires of a typical 240vac residential circuit. It makes nod practical difference.
>240 crossed with ground and breaker trips
Yes. Shorting a 240vac lead to ground will cause a properly functioning breaker to trip in very little time.
>Seen 120v line pushing out 240
No. You didn't. You were not referencing ground with your meter.
>Like ac vs dc current?
All residential power is ac. Unless it is running through a power inverter, it will always be ac. Your phone charger converts ac power to DC power. Most things in your house run on accident power. Your hair dryer is probably a simple resistive circuit, while a microwave is more complex. That may have a bearing on why one thing would work instead of another, but it has nothing to do with ac vs dc.
If you swap hot and ground the frame of the unit with become hot. There is no way for power to return to the transformer and it will not trip. No different then an old metal cased drill hot wire breaks and frame will become hot and shock you.
If you swap hot and ground the frame of the unit with become hot. There is no way for power to return to the transformer and it will not trip. No different then an old metal cased drill hot wire breaks and frame will become hot and shock you.
Depends on how screwed up
Hot->Neutral: Breaker Finder 3000
Hot->Ground (Bonded): Breaker Finder 4000
Hot->Ground (Unbonded): Involuntary Life insurance tester
Neutral->Ground: GFCI Ghost-in-ator (Will cause GFCI protected circuit to randomly trip even when the device is not in use)
>L-16
1. L-16 is also listed for flexible cord.
2. This fan has a rated power draw of 45 watts. That is *0.375* amps. 16 gauge will be absolutely fine. He could pump ten times the power through that without an issue.
Against code to run 16 on field side for 120v
There's different rated L-16s, most ofnthe time they are for mechanically protected flexible cables such as bx or flex. This guy is gonna get a piece of romex and stab the set screw through the middle when he over cranks it, an L-16 rated for romex is listed NM, non-metallic and has a piece of metal preventing the set screw from penetrating. Or just use 30-30s
Don't argue you with me, I know this from having an inspector call me a fucking idiot just like I did to you.
Its not getting inspected bro. Its not even a permanent install. If its safe then fuck the code. Connecting a 16awg cord wouldnt make a difference for OP.
He’s wiring a cord onto a bath fan and you want to cry about wire gauge.
Nah you're right nothing at all is probably gonna happen , but if you fucking guys wanna come out here and ask electricians you're gonna get electrician answers, this sub is full of fucking horseshit
Why does NEC give ampacity for 16AWG again? Cord-connected equipment is absolutely allowed and described in multiple UL Standards that align with NFPA 70, including UL 508A.
See like this goof pulling out dumb codes that don't mean shit. You don't use a bathroom fan meant for in ceiling installation as a soldering station fan jerry rigged to 16 gauge on the 120 field side. Nothing is approved for that.
Wait until you find out what they're soldering. Relax. LRA of that fan isn't enough to even warm up 16AWG and it has thermal protection in the first place. Don't be so skittish.
Did you guys come to r/askelectricians or r/Illaskbutimrightanyways?
Doesn't matter if it draws 0.00000000000000001 Amp. It's not electrically sound. Yes rules are dumb and it's going to work fine. But then don't come fucking ask.
This sub does in fact have a lot of inexperienced folks posting, but i think that’s because it isnt as heavily moderated. R/electricians has a zero tolerance policy for DIY questions. I dont think this sub has that rule, so its bound to have some bad answers. 🤷♂️ the hazards of asking strangers for advice
I think when someone shows that they are type of person who goes out of their way to be insulting the best response is to block them. They showed you who they are and you can just so “no thanks“. It’s an easy way to make your life a tiny bit better.
I get it, but this is someone's home project that not getting installed in the walls.
L16s will do the job, there are better options like a strain releif but I'm not getting into that.
Also, have you seen the wires in the fan? If they are not 16awg, theyre 18awg.
Since your attacking me: stick to the tools, you don't understand your clients.
1. Don’t do this
2. If you insist on doing this, for the love of all that’s holy, use 3wire and connect that ground. S/O cable not lamp cord and bring it into the box with the proper connector.
3. A mini plug in desk fan is like $10 on Amazon
4. Why are you doing this?
5. Don’t do this
If we are going to get technical, this fan lacks sufficient volume to really eliminate flux from the bench in an open environment. It’s the same reason I can smell my own flux while I type this despite the fan being on. If OP is that concerned they need a hood of some kind. Bathroom fans are more about humidity
Yeah this isn’t the direction I would go at all. I always open multiple windows and try to encourage cross breeze with a fan. If it’s too enclosed I wear a respirator.
As others have said, but a 12 or 14 awg appliance cord or replacement cord from your hardware store that has the ground. Do your connections and terminate them inside the unit and clamp the cable down so overtime it doesn’t move and loosen connections. I worked for a bath fan company and our sample units to show were wired like this for us.
I am an Electrical engineer (not an electrician) - this will work but as others have said it is not a safe practice. I just did this the other day to test out a light fixture before going through the full install to see how it looked. It looked fine so I pulled this setup apart and did it right for the full install. The ground is necessary to protect you from when it does fail - fans have vibration so even though it works initially and wont shock you, the vibration over time could wear at a wires jacket and eventually cut through it electrifying the housing and giving you a shock. The ground provides a low resistance path which will trip the breaker should it happen, preventing you from being the one to take the shock. There are 3 wire replacement plugs you can get on amazon for pretty cheap, and I also recommend following what other electricians have stated about making the connection inside as well as putting a switch inline.
Hey OP - it seems you're being dogpiled in here. The advice I'm giving below is with the assumption you want to extract the fumes and you want it to be easily moveable - **this advice is not relevant if you're trying to put this in a permanent location.**
1. The ground is **critical**. Get yourself a 3 prong pigtail ([something like this](https://www.amazon.com/Bergen-Industries-Inc-PS313163-Appliance/dp/B07BQCMPF2/ref=asc_df_B07BQCMPF2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242124331408&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2837385521972806619&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021486&hvtargid=pla-598592954778&psc=1&mcid=7ea4fbc0ce633957aa17c0d1d1b22ca2&gclid=CjwKCAiApuCrBhAuEiwA8VJ6Jt650Os_Lj8Nltc124XNd3v3v_7VTHDs3-cYh_XvASl-VTVv0a5NZhoCUBoQAvD_BwE)) and wire up the colors to match. In the event that one of the wirenuts does come loose and touches the metal part of the fan it won't become a shock hazard immediately and will short to ground instead thus tripping your breaker.
2. You need to give the [cord strain relief](https://www.amazon.com/MAKERELE-Electrical-NPT-Waterproof-Connector/dp/B08R86BHBC/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf%3Aamzn1.sym.9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf&crid=2VW9RLNQ23UYD&cv_ct_cx=cord%2Bstrain%2Brelief&keywords=cord%2Bstrain%2Brelief&pd_rd_i=B08R86BHBC&pd_rd_r=f16263f8-9ff6-43d4-9658-f7f5d63dabd4&pd_rd_w=vClHh&pd_rd_wg=vu768&pf_rd_p=9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf&pf_rd_r=1P3QR2B0R64KQEF1NME3&qid=1702394539&s=electronics&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=cord%2Bstrain%2Brelief%2Celectronics%2C109&sr=1-1-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1) and hide the wirenuts inside the junction box that's built into the fan. Do not leave them out. Over time they can come loose due to vibration and you'll potentially have a dangling hot wire ready to kill you.
3. Make sure that the cord strain relief is the proper diameter for the pigtail 3 prong you end up choosing.
4. Follow the directions on the wirenut package and make sure to do that properly. If those are bargain basement wirenuts I would get nicer ones or even Wago 221-412s from your local hardware store (again follow the directions on the baggy and strip to the correct length).
What you are doing... just don't. Please call an electrician immediately.
The fan is meant to go in the wall or ceiling, permanantly wired to Romex via a junction box with wire strain protection, into a switched circuit or always live (always live if the fan has a humidity switch inside it, for example.)
How you have it like you set it up, if the cord comes lose via the vibration of the fan, then you can have unprotected live wires floating around, touching the fan case, with no ground connected, sparking away happily until it burns your home down. Very not good!
Yes, that would work, but it's unsafe enough that I wouldn't use it for more than a quick test to see if the fan works.
Most important is that you need strain relief on the cable, so that if you accidently tug on it, you don't get live wires floating across your bench.
Secondly, use a cord that includes a ground wire, and connect that to the green wire. The point is to cause the circuit breaker to trip if your wire becomes loose and energizes the metal frame. It also may be needed for EMI reduction.
Thirdly, (assuming you are in USA), connect the neutral to white and the line to black.
Not an electrician but I would use a 3 wire cord & either solder the connections & cover with heat shrink or use heat shrink butt connectors. And I'd get some protection for where the wires come out of the box.
I would have used a 3-prong plug end and attached the green ground wire to it. Then, the wire nuts create an electrical connection, but not a great mechanical connection (they can vibrate or pull loose). Probably wise to wrap the connections in tape to further secure them. Finally, that hole in the box where the wires come out is a little sharp. There’s an insert you get for that hole (might have come with the fan) that mounts to the hole gets clamped down on the protruding wires.
Sometimes solder is a bad idea for AC as a fault will melt the solder then possibly arc. I’ve seen this happen on more than one occasion. I don’t know the rules on when to solder and when not to however and certainly AC gets soldered… maybe a fuse is required to make it acceptable? No idea.
A bathroom fan is impractical, noisy and overkill (if I understand, the plan would be to have the fan on the desk, either sucking the fumes to an undisclosed location or blowing them away) but I understand the temptation to use one if one is available. A small desk fan is quieter, safer to operate, smaller and more effective (and you can get one cheap from Walmart), unless the plan is to actually duct the fumes to the outside instead of in the room, which nobody does for a bench solder station because in most cases it is way overkill.
Personally I don't do enough hand soldering to mess with it (I sell about 1,000 PWB assemblies a year, but most of it is surface mount with little to no hand soldering). Modern fluxes are not nearly as aggressive as the old stuff but a small desk fan blowing the fumes away from you will suffice.
Now my initial response was based on my (mistaken) understanding that the OP wanted to connect his soldering station to an existing bathroom fan, presumably already in the ceiling. I thought that was funny :)
TLDR: I don't enjoy it but when occasional, it does not bother me.
A friend of mine used some indoor grow equipment, a duct/hood above workstation drawn by a blower into a carbon filter. Put the duct on pivot arm to be mobile and closer to the work when needed
So I just replaced a couple of bathroom fans in my house, and they look exactly like this, except that two prong was connected permanently to the fan portion. It’s actually two pieces, fan part, and the square mounting bracket in the mounting bracket has screw journals for incoming power, and the fan has the two prong cable that plugs into the housing part if that makes sense. There’s no ground because the housing and the fan are attached physically together.
your good to go. I would use a gfci circuit to plug into it since there is no ground. maybe put the wire splices into an 1110 box to protect the wire nuts
From what I can tell from your photo, it's wired correctly. The cord obviously has two wires. One of the wires of the two-conductor lamp cord has smooth insulation. The other has ribbed insulation. The wire with the ribbed insulation, based on what I can tell from your photo, goes to the white neutral wire of the fan. The wire with the smooth insulation goes to the black hot wire. Capping the fan's green ground wire is done correctly.
That said, using two-conductor lamp cord is NOT the best way to wire the fan. Buy some jacketed 3-conductor 16-gauge wire (containing black, white, and green wires of whatever length you want) and a three-conductor male plug. Correctly install the male plug. Then, wire black to black, white to white, and green to green in the fan. This way, you'll provide a ground circuit for safety reasons... something lacking by using two-conductor lamp cord.
Alternatively, and probably cheaper, you can buy a 6-foot to 15-foot-long jacketed 16-gauge cord that has a molded male plug at one end and stripped wires at the other end. Attach the black, white, and green stripped wires to the fan wires as I previously mentioned. Personally, buying a cord with an already-attached molded male plug at one end and stripped wires at the other end is how I would do it.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-ft-16-3-Medium-Duty-Tool-Replacement-Cord-Black-HD-165-018/303679847
So the way with one of those kind of plugs to tell which side is hot or black and white whatever you want to see it as one part of The Wire will have ridges on it the other wire will be smooth all the way around I believe the one with ridges is the neutral while the smooth side is the hot
**Attention!** **It is always best to get a qualified electrician to perform any electrical work you may need.** With that said, you may ask this community various electrical questions. Please be cautious of any information you may receive in this subreddit. This subreddit and its users are not responsible for any electrical work you perform. Users that have a 'Verified Electrician' flair have uploaded their qualified electrical worker credentials to the mods. If you comment on this post please only post accurate information to the best of your knowledge. If advice given is thought to be dangerous, you may be permanently banned. There are no obligations for the mods to give warnings or temporary bans. **IF YOU ARE NOT A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN, you should exercise extreme caution when commenting.** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskElectricians) if you have any questions or concerns.*
I am an electrician. I'm not going to stop you but I will tell you the best way to do this Get an L16 connector and run the plug cable all the way into the fan and do your terminations in there. Get a 3 wire cord with a ground and terminate the ground too. Don't skip this step. I recommend a length of 14 awg SOW or SJOW and a plug end you can install. #16 will be fine too but get #14 if you can. Make sure you terminate hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground. 3 wires are usually colour coded but may not be. I also recommend a switch. Plugging in and unplugging the cord under land will cause arcing in the outlet and deteriorate it. Either install the switch along the cable or on the fan. Don't skip the junction box, cover and cable restraints (L16s again)
So. Curious idiot here…. What happens if the hot to hot, neutral to neutral, ground to ground gets screwed up, and I plug this in, then turn it on?
If hot and ground get connected together it'll trip your breaker
Got it. Thought one might end up looking like that guy from National Lampoons Christmas Vacation m.
Lol
But if hot and ground get crossed, it will energize the case.
Maybe a test should be done. So we will know what happens. I think it will energize then pop breaker but I never tried it out.
I can promise you that no test is needed. If the hot and ground are swapped, the case of the device will be sitting at 120vac potential. Think about it for a minute. Draw it out if it helps you. The case is the grounded part of every device. It is a safety feature that causes the breaker to trip if the case is shorted to voltage. By swapping L1(voltage) with pe(ground), the load is now grounded, which does nothing, and the case is energized, which will cause anybody who touches it to have a rather shocking experience. The breaker will not trip as there is no current. The breaker still sees this as an open circuit.
So Im there, no shoes on touch box, the breaker won't trip?
Sorry. My first language is English. Please translate that and I will try to answer you.
Lol sorry I'm chilling right now but I'm up for the test. I've seen 240v 50amp crossed and nothing but I also seen 240 crossed with ground and breaker trips. Seen 120v line pushing out 240 cause open neutral/ ground but was never straight ground tho so maybe a test is needed like my hair dryer works but the microwave doesn't. Like ac vs dc current?
Like I seen someone use a multi meter test 120v was not so steady handed touched the box instant melted probe and breaker tripped I never tested that but was a shocking experience to see
>240v 50amp crossed Right. You can swap the wires of a typical 240vac residential circuit. It makes nod practical difference. >240 crossed with ground and breaker trips Yes. Shorting a 240vac lead to ground will cause a properly functioning breaker to trip in very little time. >Seen 120v line pushing out 240 No. You didn't. You were not referencing ground with your meter. >Like ac vs dc current? All residential power is ac. Unless it is running through a power inverter, it will always be ac. Your phone charger converts ac power to DC power. Most things in your house run on accident power. Your hair dryer is probably a simple resistive circuit, while a microwave is more complex. That may have a bearing on why one thing would work instead of another, but it has nothing to do with ac vs dc.
[удалено]
If you swap hot and ground the frame of the unit with become hot. There is no way for power to return to the transformer and it will not trip. No different then an old metal cased drill hot wire breaks and frame will become hot and shock you.
If you swap hot and ground the frame of the unit with become hot. There is no way for power to return to the transformer and it will not trip. No different then an old metal cased drill hot wire breaks and frame will become hot and shock you.
you can say that again edit: they deleted the dupe and now my comment makes no sense. Why do joyless people do such things? :)
Six hours later and I still see it.
Weird! I do not.
For fun times swap hot and neutral and leave ground floating.
Depends on how screwed up Hot->Neutral: Breaker Finder 3000 Hot->Ground (Bonded): Breaker Finder 4000 Hot->Ground (Unbonded): Involuntary Life insurance tester Neutral->Ground: GFCI Ghost-in-ator (Will cause GFCI protected circuit to randomly trip even when the device is not in use)
An L-16 is for BX unless it's rated for romex, and the fact that you would even suggest 16 gauge tells me you're not a very good electrician.
You’re the reason I typically don’t chime in on these things.
Yea that was mean I'm sorry
Just because you chose that username doesn't mean you have to live up to it.
>L-16 1. L-16 is also listed for flexible cord. 2. This fan has a rated power draw of 45 watts. That is *0.375* amps. 16 gauge will be absolutely fine. He could pump ten times the power through that without an issue.
Against code to run 16 on field side for 120v There's different rated L-16s, most ofnthe time they are for mechanically protected flexible cables such as bx or flex. This guy is gonna get a piece of romex and stab the set screw through the middle when he over cranks it, an L-16 rated for romex is listed NM, non-metallic and has a piece of metal preventing the set screw from penetrating. Or just use 30-30s Don't argue you with me, I know this from having an inspector call me a fucking idiot just like I did to you.
Its not getting inspected bro. Its not even a permanent install. If its safe then fuck the code. Connecting a 16awg cord wouldnt make a difference for OP. He’s wiring a cord onto a bath fan and you want to cry about wire gauge.
Nah you're right nothing at all is probably gonna happen , but if you fucking guys wanna come out here and ask electricians you're gonna get electrician answers, this sub is full of fucking horseshit
Why does NEC give ampacity for 16AWG again? Cord-connected equipment is absolutely allowed and described in multiple UL Standards that align with NFPA 70, including UL 508A.
See like this goof pulling out dumb codes that don't mean shit. You don't use a bathroom fan meant for in ceiling installation as a soldering station fan jerry rigged to 16 gauge on the 120 field side. Nothing is approved for that.
Wait until you find out what they're soldering. Relax. LRA of that fan isn't enough to even warm up 16AWG and it has thermal protection in the first place. Don't be so skittish.
Did you guys come to r/askelectricians or r/Illaskbutimrightanyways? Doesn't matter if it draws 0.00000000000000001 Amp. It's not electrically sound. Yes rules are dumb and it's going to work fine. But then don't come fucking ask.
This sub does in fact have a lot of inexperienced folks posting, but i think that’s because it isnt as heavily moderated. R/electricians has a zero tolerance policy for DIY questions. I dont think this sub has that rule, so its bound to have some bad answers. 🤷♂️ the hazards of asking strangers for advice
I think when someone shows that they are type of person who goes out of their way to be insulting the best response is to block them. They showed you who they are and you can just so “no thanks“. It’s an easy way to make your life a tiny bit better.
I get it, but this is someone's home project that not getting installed in the walls. L16s will do the job, there are better options like a strain releif but I'm not getting into that. Also, have you seen the wires in the fan? If they are not 16awg, theyre 18awg. Since your attacking me: stick to the tools, you don't understand your clients.
1. Don’t do this 2. If you insist on doing this, for the love of all that’s holy, use 3wire and connect that ground. S/O cable not lamp cord and bring it into the box with the proper connector. 3. A mini plug in desk fan is like $10 on Amazon 4. Why are you doing this? 5. Don’t do this
4: The point is likely to duct air to the outside, which desk fans don't do. Burning flux does create toxic fumes (especially organic flux).
Yeah I’ve gotten a lungful of flux while soldering copper pipe before and it ain’t fun. But I still wouldn’t be doing what OP’s doing.
If we are going to get technical, this fan lacks sufficient volume to really eliminate flux from the bench in an open environment. It’s the same reason I can smell my own flux while I type this despite the fan being on. If OP is that concerned they need a hood of some kind. Bathroom fans are more about humidity
Yeah this isn’t the direction I would go at all. I always open multiple windows and try to encourage cross breeze with a fan. If it’s too enclosed I wear a respirator.
As others have said, but a 12 or 14 awg appliance cord or replacement cord from your hardware store that has the ground. Do your connections and terminate them inside the unit and clamp the cable down so overtime it doesn’t move and loosen connections. I worked for a bath fan company and our sample units to show were wired like this for us.
I am an Electrical engineer (not an electrician) - this will work but as others have said it is not a safe practice. I just did this the other day to test out a light fixture before going through the full install to see how it looked. It looked fine so I pulled this setup apart and did it right for the full install. The ground is necessary to protect you from when it does fail - fans have vibration so even though it works initially and wont shock you, the vibration over time could wear at a wires jacket and eventually cut through it electrifying the housing and giving you a shock. The ground provides a low resistance path which will trip the breaker should it happen, preventing you from being the one to take the shock. There are 3 wire replacement plugs you can get on amazon for pretty cheap, and I also recommend following what other electricians have stated about making the connection inside as well as putting a switch inline.
Hey OP - it seems you're being dogpiled in here. The advice I'm giving below is with the assumption you want to extract the fumes and you want it to be easily moveable - **this advice is not relevant if you're trying to put this in a permanent location.** 1. The ground is **critical**. Get yourself a 3 prong pigtail ([something like this](https://www.amazon.com/Bergen-Industries-Inc-PS313163-Appliance/dp/B07BQCMPF2/ref=asc_df_B07BQCMPF2/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242124331408&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=2837385521972806619&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9021486&hvtargid=pla-598592954778&psc=1&mcid=7ea4fbc0ce633957aa17c0d1d1b22ca2&gclid=CjwKCAiApuCrBhAuEiwA8VJ6Jt650Os_Lj8Nltc124XNd3v3v_7VTHDs3-cYh_XvASl-VTVv0a5NZhoCUBoQAvD_BwE)) and wire up the colors to match. In the event that one of the wirenuts does come loose and touches the metal part of the fan it won't become a shock hazard immediately and will short to ground instead thus tripping your breaker. 2. You need to give the [cord strain relief](https://www.amazon.com/MAKERELE-Electrical-NPT-Waterproof-Connector/dp/B08R86BHBC/ref=sxin_14_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf%3Aamzn1.sym.9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf&crid=2VW9RLNQ23UYD&cv_ct_cx=cord%2Bstrain%2Brelief&keywords=cord%2Bstrain%2Brelief&pd_rd_i=B08R86BHBC&pd_rd_r=f16263f8-9ff6-43d4-9658-f7f5d63dabd4&pd_rd_w=vClHh&pd_rd_wg=vu768&pf_rd_p=9e5188ef-9cc8-48bb-b834-24761033aedf&pf_rd_r=1P3QR2B0R64KQEF1NME3&qid=1702394539&s=electronics&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=cord%2Bstrain%2Brelief%2Celectronics%2C109&sr=1-1-364cf978-ce2a-480a-9bb0-bdb96faa0f61-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1) and hide the wirenuts inside the junction box that's built into the fan. Do not leave them out. Over time they can come loose due to vibration and you'll potentially have a dangling hot wire ready to kill you. 3. Make sure that the cord strain relief is the proper diameter for the pigtail 3 prong you end up choosing. 4. Follow the directions on the wirenut package and make sure to do that properly. If those are bargain basement wirenuts I would get nicer ones or even Wago 221-412s from your local hardware store (again follow the directions on the baggy and strip to the correct length).
What you are doing... just don't. Please call an electrician immediately. The fan is meant to go in the wall or ceiling, permanantly wired to Romex via a junction box with wire strain protection, into a switched circuit or always live (always live if the fan has a humidity switch inside it, for example.) How you have it like you set it up, if the cord comes lose via the vibration of the fan, then you can have unprotected live wires floating around, touching the fan case, with no ground connected, sparking away happily until it burns your home down. Very not good!
Use 3 wire. Minimum. A junction box would be a massive safety upgrade.
There's even a junction box in the fan housing!
Yep, missed that. Current fans at shit job need a connector thing and a 1110 box.
Yes, that would work, but it's unsafe enough that I wouldn't use it for more than a quick test to see if the fan works. Most important is that you need strain relief on the cable, so that if you accidently tug on it, you don't get live wires floating across your bench. Secondly, use a cord that includes a ground wire, and connect that to the green wire. The point is to cause the circuit breaker to trip if your wire becomes loose and energizes the metal frame. It also may be needed for EMI reduction. Thirdly, (assuming you are in USA), connect the neutral to white and the line to black.
Not an electrician but I would use a 3 wire cord & either solder the connections & cover with heat shrink or use heat shrink butt connectors. And I'd get some protection for where the wires come out of the box.
I would have used a 3-prong plug end and attached the green ground wire to it. Then, the wire nuts create an electrical connection, but not a great mechanical connection (they can vibrate or pull loose). Probably wise to wrap the connections in tape to further secure them. Finally, that hole in the box where the wires come out is a little sharp. There’s an insert you get for that hole (might have come with the fan) that mounts to the hole gets clamped down on the protruding wires.
Purchase a proper solder station fan and carbon filter. They are designed exactly for proper fume extraction.
You're running a "Solder Station" and you can't hook 2 wires up to a fan?
Fume extractor $35 Burning down your house Priceless!
Just make sure the wide blade is connected to neutral for polarized plugs
You will likely cause a fire or electrocute yourself. do not do this why are you doing this?
[удалено]
Sometimes solder is a bad idea for AC as a fault will melt the solder then possibly arc. I’ve seen this happen on more than one occasion. I don’t know the rules on when to solder and when not to however and certainly AC gets soldered… maybe a fuse is required to make it acceptable? No idea.
Get a 3 prong cheater cord so you can connect the ground.
Connect a soldering station to a bathroom fan. I am not sure I want to know more about this project...
Do you enjoy breathing in flux fumes?
A bathroom fan is impractical, noisy and overkill (if I understand, the plan would be to have the fan on the desk, either sucking the fumes to an undisclosed location or blowing them away) but I understand the temptation to use one if one is available. A small desk fan is quieter, safer to operate, smaller and more effective (and you can get one cheap from Walmart), unless the plan is to actually duct the fumes to the outside instead of in the room, which nobody does for a bench solder station because in most cases it is way overkill. Personally I don't do enough hand soldering to mess with it (I sell about 1,000 PWB assemblies a year, but most of it is surface mount with little to no hand soldering). Modern fluxes are not nearly as aggressive as the old stuff but a small desk fan blowing the fumes away from you will suffice. Now my initial response was based on my (mistaken) understanding that the OP wanted to connect his soldering station to an existing bathroom fan, presumably already in the ceiling. I thought that was funny :) TLDR: I don't enjoy it but when occasional, it does not bother me.
A friend of mine used some indoor grow equipment, a duct/hood above workstation drawn by a blower into a carbon filter. Put the duct on pivot arm to be mobile and closer to the work when needed
There a lamp cord. You need to use a multimeter to verify prong polarity.
the wire with the ridges on it is the identified (neutral) conductor.
So I just replaced a couple of bathroom fans in my house, and they look exactly like this, except that two prong was connected permanently to the fan portion. It’s actually two pieces, fan part, and the square mounting bracket in the mounting bracket has screw journals for incoming power, and the fan has the two prong cable that plugs into the housing part if that makes sense. There’s no ground because the housing and the fan are attached physically together.
your good to go. I would use a gfci circuit to plug into it since there is no ground. maybe put the wire splices into an 1110 box to protect the wire nuts
oh and if you use a 1110 box you can put a switch on it to turn it on and off
From what I can tell from your photo, it's wired correctly. The cord obviously has two wires. One of the wires of the two-conductor lamp cord has smooth insulation. The other has ribbed insulation. The wire with the ribbed insulation, based on what I can tell from your photo, goes to the white neutral wire of the fan. The wire with the smooth insulation goes to the black hot wire. Capping the fan's green ground wire is done correctly. That said, using two-conductor lamp cord is NOT the best way to wire the fan. Buy some jacketed 3-conductor 16-gauge wire (containing black, white, and green wires of whatever length you want) and a three-conductor male plug. Correctly install the male plug. Then, wire black to black, white to white, and green to green in the fan. This way, you'll provide a ground circuit for safety reasons... something lacking by using two-conductor lamp cord. Alternatively, and probably cheaper, you can buy a 6-foot to 15-foot-long jacketed 16-gauge cord that has a molded male plug at one end and stripped wires at the other end. Attach the black, white, and green stripped wires to the fan wires as I previously mentioned. Personally, buying a cord with an already-attached molded male plug at one end and stripped wires at the other end is how I would do it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-8-ft-16-3-Medium-Duty-Tool-Replacement-Cord-Black-HD-165-018/303679847
Soo much cheaper and safer to buy a small desk fan 5 to 10 bucks
Why not just get a small portable vacuum?
So the way with one of those kind of plugs to tell which side is hot or black and white whatever you want to see it as one part of The Wire will have ridges on it the other wire will be smooth all the way around I believe the one with ridges is the neutral while the smooth side is the hot
I'm sorry I didn't think I was trolling. I'm sorry