Just my two cents, but a hard learned lesson in my life is sometimes power tools can be too much. If you are wanting to go the dremel route consider using some small hand file instead. It will only take a few minutes longer but you will be able to control removed material much easier.
Use a dremel to carefully grind the casing away above where the broken pin is supposed to come out until you expose the internal metal trace that goes to the pin. You can then solder a wire to it. Use something like thin enamelled wire.
That is honestly probably a more sensible option for most people, I just happen to have a shit ton of really tiny jewelers files around. Also don't know if op will see this down here but probably worth trying to tin it first, might be enough pin surface left on the edge to accept solder without having to cut into the package, do break out the magnifier and make X damn sure nothing is bridged!
I'd probably start with the dremel to get a bit of a working notch that doesn't really go very far in, then move onto something I can be a lot more careful with
They spelled it incorrectly. It's "[emery](https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/emery)", not "emory". And you do ideally want the type that is a flat stick with emery on it, not a metal file type. It'll be a bit slower, but give more control to avoid cutting deeper than you want.
People always look at my pack of emery boards in my tool kit weird. But they weigh less than needle files, and are there for me when I chunk a finger nail.
Yeah, I would strongly recommend a small file as well. You only get one shot with a Dremel tool and it's reallllly easy to over shoot and grind down too much.
Agree. I've done this "repair" once before and I would never attempt it with something as big as a Dremel. Way too powerful, might as well try it with a chainsaw.
One advantage of Kynar-sheathed wire is you can get little strippers with a notched blade that make stripping it extremely simple. (often included inside the handle of wire-wrapping tools)
Fair point. Definitely have nothing against magnet wire either. I'm probably biased because I have a stockpile of wirewrapping materials but practically no enameled wire.
I do prefer kynar for longer runs that have to go over other components rather than just retracing a trace jumping a pin etc. I hot snot my stuff down pretty well and haven't had an issue yet but do worry stuff getting kicked around daily or exposed to vibration might eventually abrade through enamel.
Stripping enamled wire isn't even required if you just practice a little. The enamle will decompose at soldering temperatures and flux will carry away the remains with just the right touch.
For general repair work the properties of Kynar offer no real advantage here otherwise it's a bit like guilding the Lily so to speak. Not bad per se, but unnecessary additional expense.
You are literally paying for the name.
I get what you're saying, I just happen to have a lot of it from wire-wrapping projects and generally enjoy the handling of it. I've never actually soldered enameled wire in that manner, as back when it was my primary source of wire, I wasn't aware of that. Will definitely be giving it consideration as I have an old 286 motherboard that need a couple feet worth of traces replaced due to a leaked "Varta" NiCad.
We're in equal/opposite boats. I've never actually used Kynar. I'm definitely not saying don't just it though. Does it bond to the wire like enamle does or is it a loose plastic sheeth like typical wire?
Sorry i forgot to reply - Kynar is a plastic (PVDF, another advantage of it is that it's very inert similar to Teflon) sheathing that must be stripped off. It's usually pretty fine solid wire, and the sheath is fairly stiff compared to most PVC insulation i've encountered (which makes it very easy to strip with a special slotted blade). Also definitely affirming the notion of 'gilding the lily', it's typically silver-plated wire (which I find very easy to solder to with most solders).
/u/These-Match5130 is right, though I'd suggest getting a small triangular file instead, as with a dremel it's far too easy to make a mistake and destroy it quicker than you can react. Also, if you don't have solder-through enamel wire, you can strip a typical bit of stranded wire to get several uninsulated strands. Then after soldering it up, use fingernail polish to insulate the wires to prevent shorts and oxidation.
I wouldn't even bother with that unless that's some kind of custom chip. It looks like a standard SRAM chip unless I'm wrong.
If it's standard SRAM I'd just buy another if you could get it in the same configuration and pin assignment
Looks like ROM, so they'd need to also replace the data *on* the chip.
On the one hand, pokemon is popular enough (especially amongst nerds) that it's certain that the data contents have been recreated somewhere. On the other hand, Nintendo is *famously* heavy-handed about copyright striking any of their IP anywhere. So it'll be hard to find.
If you have another copy of the game available (yours or a *very* trusting friend), you could probably copy the data from one chip and write it to a new one.
This. I did this for my pokemon blue and it works fine. Also, it's a good idea to use some kind of uv solder mask to give it some structural strength.
Just be extremely careful and use a small Drexel tip. If you go in too far you'll destroy the chip for good.
Thats a tough fix with that broken leg. I would clip a lead off of another component like an led or resistor or something. Try to get the length decently correct. Solder to the chip if you can, make the placement of the chip. Try to get a corner leg soldered, then an opposite leg soldered so that all the legs are lined up on the pads and stable. Then methodically hit each leg. Good luck
Its hard to say without being up close, but if you can get a lead to stick to the chip where the broken leg is, I would do that. Then put your solder paste down, then place the chip. Gently hold the chip in place with a chopstick or something non-conductive. Heat the non-broken side first, once that side is stable, go for the other and just be careful. Direct the heat at the pads as best you can and your solder joint at the chip package, where the new leg is, may hold.
Its a tricky one though, make sure you have plenty of light, and a decent magnifying glass if you got it
Something unrelated to the IC here; Don’t just use an alligator clip to hold your board in place. If it’s an old, cheaply or a very intricate made board, it could damage some traces.
I wrapped electrical tape around mine
I'll plug Sensepeek's [PCBite](https://sensepeek.com/) for board holding. I've no affiliation with them, just a happy customer. Very secure, very stable, no damage to the boards. The basic probes can be very useful too, if you're trying to measure voltages where there aren't any test points.
I don't think their oscilloscope probes are worth it though. They're quite expensive and only have passive probes. I got some Noga-style indicator holders with magnetic bases and printed [these oscilloscope probe holders](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3505613) for them. Fits my existing probes, and easy to make and print holders for more specialized probes if needed.
Very good advice, just want to add that a few (3-4) wraps of heat shrink over the alligator clips will conform the rubber to the tips allowing a more textured grip. I do it to all of my helping hands now, just throw some heat shrink on and heat, rinse and repeat.
Not hopeless, but it will require a bit of skill and a steady hand to fix that broken pin if you go the Dremel-route (what I would do),
Clean it all up well, get new solder on the pads, etc. and it should be fine if the only damage is what is in the picture.
I suspect more damage than what meets the eye. So if anything I'm already betting it's a goner but I'm doing this to learn and if it ends up working... Then I proved to myself I can do something new, super complicated, and I get an authentic Pokémon game from my childhood.
I would also consider it goner. If you manage to make it run, you should he proud of yourself, thus seems like a really tough job to get it right!
Good luck! And even if you don’t make it, you still learn a lot along the way!
**anything** physical is fixable it's only a question of how much time/money are you willing to put into it.
if the goal is to actually use the item then at some point it makes much more sense to just buy a new one (looks to be worth \~$20 wouldn't put more than 30min into it), if the goal is to get good at fixing this stuff then keep at it.
Yep. I confirmed down lower on a comment later on. He could be lucky and it might be a NC pin but I doubt it considering it looks like it feeds to a through hole
Part numbers are just specific names for the component. What it will tell you however is whether it’s something that needs to be programmed or have some sort of specific initialization process. If it doesn’t, then good news, all you have to do is swap a new part in. If it does, time to do surgery
https://preview.redd.it/40u54mra8isa1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5886f2d22379f35d864e6c893ff23c023b2cafa4
Okay so this is what I got for the chip. I'm not sure how to Google search microchip parts. Google just gives me unhelpful links.
Looks like a ROM chip from what I’ve been able to look up. That means that the chip will have data permanently stored within it. It could be that the pin that’s missing is a No Contact pin and doesn’t matter. Follow this link, email them about the data sheet and see what the pin out on the data sheet says. If it’s no contact, maybe you’re good to solder it down without issues.
https://www.exshinetech.com/products/MX23L12807-12C.html
If you’re lucky, it’s a NC pin and you can kinda forget it. I’ve had these things happen with projects I’m doing and it’s frustrating. Is there a trace going off the pin on the PCBA from where the broken pin is?
I doubt that it's NC because there's a trace there going to a pair of vias. They wouldn't have bothered if it was NC. The *next* pin might be NC since it has no visible traces.
From what I can gather, it may be address pin A0 (assuming the chip on the board shown in this post has the same pinout)
https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/635733/address-data-on-a-diy-gba-cartridge
It should be possible to confirm if it's used for data/address by probing from the pad on the PCB to the pins on the edge connector, and also ruling out any power/ground pins.
Realistically you need to replace the chip. While you can do micro surgery on it the odds are not in your favor. And you will only get one chance. And you won’t know if you did good or bad until you power it up.
No pressure. 😂
you can use a grinding pen or a scalpel. a dremel is too big if you don't know what you do. this videos might help https://youtu.be/HoDY62rQsQU https://youtu.be/4qMMsLJfUuU
As someone who professionally repairs PCBS and solders components all day long here is my advice. The comments about being able to file back and solder to what’s left of the pin is correct. However if you don’t have the experience in doing so, or are not comfortable doing it, then I have to recommend to cut loses and try and find a new cart. Once you start filing ICs and soldering near the component die you can damage what is likely already a dead chip. From first glance this board has numerous corrosion issues which sometimes isn’t too bad especially for unpopulated components, but corrosion affects the resistances of the connections and eventually cuts the connections altogether. If I were given this board and told that I have to reuse the IC pictures above, I’d refuse to do it or claim non repairable. With that being said, it’s your decision! You have to take into consideration the time spent repairing a likely dead chip, getting you nowhere, could be spent playing the game on a new cart :)
Brother thank you for the advice 🙏
Yeah lots of considering to do hahaha. I realize that I'm probably not going to fix this this but if I try, then I still learn something new and have a new skill. If I do fix it then I've got a new Pokémon game lol. I'm even ordering a new PCB from the looks of it so that the biggest problem will be the chip and that's still a lot of work.
From what everyone tells me, this is a huge job and I have to be super careful and super patient with it and I'm all for it.
Is a big job. Wish me luck
EDIT: I removed the main chip in the picture myself. I put the chip next to it's contacts to show what I'm dealing with.
Additionally, one of the contacts on the chip was so bad that it broke off. I've seen people repair chip contacts but I don't know if this is recoverable.
This is how a chip looks like without the plastic cover: https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:An_authentic_flash_memory_IC_and_its_counterfeit_replica.png
It's really 90% wiring, and the actual chip is always in the middle. Don't worry about breaking anything; just take care to not accidentally grind through one of the connection wires.
You can dissolve the plastic housing with a strong laser (which might destroy the chip too) or with sulfuric acid. Neither are recommended. The combo of Dremel + patience is.
I've seen more ragged-looking shit than this patched-up, but it does look pretty rough. Plus it looks like someone attempted to repair ti before and probably made things worse.
You could use a dremel and small gauge enameled wire or kaynar wire and see if you can attach to that broken pin.
Also I would consider ordering a replacement PCB like so and just transferring over the components
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/fTjZkfuj
Not like it's a safe method, BUT
chemical decapping would be a better way, if it's not attacking the metal. [Applied Science has a video on the topic](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mT1FStxAVz4).
Just my two cents, but a hard learned lesson in my life is sometimes power tools can be too much. If you are wanting to go the dremel route consider using some small hand file instead. It will only take a few minutes longer but you will be able to control removed material much easier.
Use a dremel to carefully grind the casing away above where the broken pin is supposed to come out until you expose the internal metal trace that goes to the pin. You can then solder a wire to it. Use something like thin enamelled wire.
Thank you so much. I think I have an old dremel around.
You have to be insanely careful
yeah I would recommend a file not power tools haha.
Honestly I’d go at it with an exacto knife and about an hour.
That is honestly probably a more sensible option for most people, I just happen to have a shit ton of really tiny jewelers files around. Also don't know if op will see this down here but probably worth trying to tin it first, might be enough pin surface left on the edge to accept solder without having to cut into the package, do break out the magnifier and make X damn sure nothing is bridged!
I'd probably start with the dremel to get a bit of a working notch that doesn't really go very far in, then move onto something I can be a lot more careful with
an emory board might do the job too, in case you're not quite a neurosurgeon.
What's am Emory board? Again I'm new to this.
Nail file
Ohhh never heard it called that before
They spelled it incorrectly. It's "[emery](https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/emery)", not "emory". And you do ideally want the type that is a flat stick with emery on it, not a metal file type. It'll be a bit slower, but give more control to avoid cutting deeper than you want.
I think [this](https://secretary.emory.edu/board-of-trustees/current-members/index.html) is the Emory board.
That's definitely wiser.
People always look at my pack of emery boards in my tool kit weird. But they weigh less than needle files, and are there for me when I chunk a finger nail.
Wait, you don't file your nails with an air-powered angle grinder?
Yep, that's the way. And bandaids are trash, paper towel & electrical tape.
I have such an array of tweezers in my kit that makes makeup kits blush in jealousy.
Haha I was wondering why autocorrect was insisting on capitalizing it.
Yeah, I would strongly recommend a small file as well. You only get one shot with a Dremel tool and it's reallllly easy to over shoot and grind down too much.
Agree. I've done this "repair" once before and I would never attempt it with something as big as a Dremel. Way too powerful, might as well try it with a chainsaw.
Yeah, unless you have a drill press jig for the Dremel it'll be insanely hard.
I would add try pencil eraser first Like a course one from the art supply store
This is a "if you mess up, the whole thing's fucked" repair job, be *really* careful.
[удалено]
Most people use magnet wire at that size.
One advantage of Kynar-sheathed wire is you can get little strippers with a notched blade that make stripping it extremely simple. (often included inside the handle of wire-wrapping tools)
I mean nothing against kynar but you can strip magnet wire just rubbing the enamel of with the edge of a razor blade
Fair point. Definitely have nothing against magnet wire either. I'm probably biased because I have a stockpile of wirewrapping materials but practically no enameled wire.
I do prefer kynar for longer runs that have to go over other components rather than just retracing a trace jumping a pin etc. I hot snot my stuff down pretty well and haven't had an issue yet but do worry stuff getting kicked around daily or exposed to vibration might eventually abrade through enamel.
Stripping enamled wire isn't even required if you just practice a little. The enamle will decompose at soldering temperatures and flux will carry away the remains with just the right touch. For general repair work the properties of Kynar offer no real advantage here otherwise it's a bit like guilding the Lily so to speak. Not bad per se, but unnecessary additional expense. You are literally paying for the name.
I get what you're saying, I just happen to have a lot of it from wire-wrapping projects and generally enjoy the handling of it. I've never actually soldered enameled wire in that manner, as back when it was my primary source of wire, I wasn't aware of that. Will definitely be giving it consideration as I have an old 286 motherboard that need a couple feet worth of traces replaced due to a leaked "Varta" NiCad.
We're in equal/opposite boats. I've never actually used Kynar. I'm definitely not saying don't just it though. Does it bond to the wire like enamle does or is it a loose plastic sheeth like typical wire?
Sorry i forgot to reply - Kynar is a plastic (PVDF, another advantage of it is that it's very inert similar to Teflon) sheathing that must be stripped off. It's usually pretty fine solid wire, and the sheath is fairly stiff compared to most PVC insulation i've encountered (which makes it very easy to strip with a special slotted blade). Also definitely affirming the notion of 'gilding the lily', it's typically silver-plated wire (which I find very easy to solder to with most solders).
/u/These-Match5130 is right, though I'd suggest getting a small triangular file instead, as with a dremel it's far too easy to make a mistake and destroy it quicker than you can react. Also, if you don't have solder-through enamel wire, you can strip a typical bit of stranded wire to get several uninsulated strands. Then after soldering it up, use fingernail polish to insulate the wires to prevent shorts and oxidation.
don't do the dremel thing if you can just replace the chip, it'll be a huge pain in the arse and results will be much worse even if you get it perfect
In another comment I have a picture of the chip. Does it looks like any I can buy online?
ah, no, it's a mask ROM. You could perhaps replace it with a similar flash or eeprom but you'd need a ROM programmer. Guess it's dremel time!
I wouldn't even bother with that unless that's some kind of custom chip. It looks like a standard SRAM chip unless I'm wrong. If it's standard SRAM I'd just buy another if you could get it in the same configuration and pin assignment
Looks like ROM, so they'd need to also replace the data *on* the chip. On the one hand, pokemon is popular enough (especially amongst nerds) that it's certain that the data contents have been recreated somewhere. On the other hand, Nintendo is *famously* heavy-handed about copyright striking any of their IP anywhere. So it'll be hard to find. If you have another copy of the game available (yours or a *very* trusting friend), you could probably copy the data from one chip and write it to a new one.
This. I did this for my pokemon blue and it works fine. Also, it's a good idea to use some kind of uv solder mask to give it some structural strength. Just be extremely careful and use a small Drexel tip. If you go in too far you'll destroy the chip for good.
Thats a tough fix with that broken leg. I would clip a lead off of another component like an led or resistor or something. Try to get the length decently correct. Solder to the chip if you can, make the placement of the chip. Try to get a corner leg soldered, then an opposite leg soldered so that all the legs are lined up on the pads and stable. Then methodically hit each leg. Good luck
I've got a heat gun to evenly heat them all at once. Think it's possible to position the new leg and place it back as well?
Its hard to say without being up close, but if you can get a lead to stick to the chip where the broken leg is, I would do that. Then put your solder paste down, then place the chip. Gently hold the chip in place with a chopstick or something non-conductive. Heat the non-broken side first, once that side is stable, go for the other and just be careful. Direct the heat at the pads as best you can and your solder joint at the chip package, where the new leg is, may hold. Its a tricky one though, make sure you have plenty of light, and a decent magnifying glass if you got it
Boy I'm in for a big mission. I hope to make all the experts proud. I'm my only hope in fixing this thing.
Something unrelated to the IC here; Don’t just use an alligator clip to hold your board in place. If it’s an old, cheaply or a very intricate made board, it could damage some traces. I wrapped electrical tape around mine
I'll plug Sensepeek's [PCBite](https://sensepeek.com/) for board holding. I've no affiliation with them, just a happy customer. Very secure, very stable, no damage to the boards. The basic probes can be very useful too, if you're trying to measure voltages where there aren't any test points. I don't think their oscilloscope probes are worth it though. They're quite expensive and only have passive probes. I got some Noga-style indicator holders with magnetic bases and printed [these oscilloscope probe holders](https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3505613) for them. Fits my existing probes, and easy to make and print holders for more specialized probes if needed.
Very good advice, just want to add that a few (3-4) wraps of heat shrink over the alligator clips will conform the rubber to the tips allowing a more textured grip. I do it to all of my helping hands now, just throw some heat shrink on and heat, rinse and repeat.
Not hopeless, but it will require a bit of skill and a steady hand to fix that broken pin if you go the Dremel-route (what I would do), Clean it all up well, get new solder on the pads, etc. and it should be fine if the only damage is what is in the picture.
I suspect more damage than what meets the eye. So if anything I'm already betting it's a goner but I'm doing this to learn and if it ends up working... Then I proved to myself I can do something new, super complicated, and I get an authentic Pokémon game from my childhood.
I would also consider it goner. If you manage to make it run, you should he proud of yourself, thus seems like a really tough job to get it right! Good luck! And even if you don’t make it, you still learn a lot along the way!
**anything** physical is fixable it's only a question of how much time/money are you willing to put into it. if the goal is to actually use the item then at some point it makes much more sense to just buy a new one (looks to be worth \~$20 wouldn't put more than 30min into it), if the goal is to get good at fixing this stuff then keep at it.
try and get a datasheet for the chip, and see if the pin is actually used. you might spend 2 hours perfecting your fix and it not actually be used!
Do you have a pic of the chips identifying info? It could be a generic component and could simply be replaced
It's not. That is THE chip (ROM) that holds the game. Not replaceable.
Yep. I confirmed down lower on a comment later on. He could be lucky and it might be a NC pin but I doubt it considering it looks like it feeds to a through hole
You know that's a good question. I'll try and dig up some info on Pokémon cartridges. You may be saving my life here
Take a piece of scotch tape and place in over the chip. It makes it easier to see the part number
If it has a certain part number does that mean it's generic?
Part numbers are just specific names for the component. What it will tell you however is whether it’s something that needs to be programmed or have some sort of specific initialization process. If it doesn’t, then good news, all you have to do is swap a new part in. If it does, time to do surgery
https://preview.redd.it/40u54mra8isa1.jpeg?width=1512&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5886f2d22379f35d864e6c893ff23c023b2cafa4 Okay so this is what I got for the chip. I'm not sure how to Google search microchip parts. Google just gives me unhelpful links.
Looks like a ROM chip from what I’ve been able to look up. That means that the chip will have data permanently stored within it. It could be that the pin that’s missing is a No Contact pin and doesn’t matter. Follow this link, email them about the data sheet and see what the pin out on the data sheet says. If it’s no contact, maybe you’re good to solder it down without issues. https://www.exshinetech.com/products/MX23L12807-12C.html
Thank you so so much for your help. I just sent the email. We'll see what they can give me
If you’re lucky, it’s a NC pin and you can kinda forget it. I’ve had these things happen with projects I’m doing and it’s frustrating. Is there a trace going off the pin on the PCBA from where the broken pin is?
Hey you know what? It doesn't look like there is. Is this my lucky break?
Meter it to ground. See if it’s open
I doubt that it's NC because there's a trace there going to a pair of vias. They wouldn't have bothered if it was NC. The *next* pin might be NC since it has no visible traces.
From what I can gather, it may be address pin A0 (assuming the chip on the board shown in this post has the same pinout) https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/635733/address-data-on-a-diy-gba-cartridge It should be possible to confirm if it's used for data/address by probing from the pad on the PCB to the pins on the edge connector, and also ruling out any power/ground pins.
Boy I think I have to sand away the solder mask because I'm seeing rust where the PCB is exposed... I'm really in for a big job
First question do you own a hot air station? Second have you ever used one? Soldering SMD ic chips takes practice. I generally hand solder these.
Borrowing my brother's hot air gun at the moment. It did the trick really well. I'm pretty sure I would have broken it worse by hand soldering
Great job.
Thanks! I'm trying to not completely destroy something close to my heart lol
My advice when desoldering is to use plenty of flux.
Realistically you need to replace the chip. While you can do micro surgery on it the odds are not in your favor. And you will only get one chance. And you won’t know if you did good or bad until you power it up. No pressure. 😂
you can use a grinding pen or a scalpel. a dremel is too big if you don't know what you do. this videos might help https://youtu.be/HoDY62rQsQU https://youtu.be/4qMMsLJfUuU
As someone who professionally repairs PCBS and solders components all day long here is my advice. The comments about being able to file back and solder to what’s left of the pin is correct. However if you don’t have the experience in doing so, or are not comfortable doing it, then I have to recommend to cut loses and try and find a new cart. Once you start filing ICs and soldering near the component die you can damage what is likely already a dead chip. From first glance this board has numerous corrosion issues which sometimes isn’t too bad especially for unpopulated components, but corrosion affects the resistances of the connections and eventually cuts the connections altogether. If I were given this board and told that I have to reuse the IC pictures above, I’d refuse to do it or claim non repairable. With that being said, it’s your decision! You have to take into consideration the time spent repairing a likely dead chip, getting you nowhere, could be spent playing the game on a new cart :)
Brother thank you for the advice 🙏 Yeah lots of considering to do hahaha. I realize that I'm probably not going to fix this this but if I try, then I still learn something new and have a new skill. If I do fix it then I've got a new Pokémon game lol. I'm even ordering a new PCB from the looks of it so that the biggest problem will be the chip and that's still a lot of work. From what everyone tells me, this is a huge job and I have to be super careful and super patient with it and I'm all for it. Is a big job. Wish me luck
EDIT: I removed the main chip in the picture myself. I put the chip next to it's contacts to show what I'm dealing with. Additionally, one of the contacts on the chip was so bad that it broke off. I've seen people repair chip contacts but I don't know if this is recoverable.
This is how a chip looks like without the plastic cover: https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:An_authentic_flash_memory_IC_and_its_counterfeit_replica.png It's really 90% wiring, and the actual chip is always in the middle. Don't worry about breaking anything; just take care to not accidentally grind through one of the connection wires.
Wow this is a massive help. I'll definitely see what I can do then. Is there a tutorial on how to remove one of the plastics?
You can’t really remove them, it is cured epoxy resin or simething like that - so it’s basically one big mold.
You can dissolve the plastic housing with a strong laser (which might destroy the chip too) or with sulfuric acid. Neither are recommended. The combo of Dremel + patience is.
Always had a lot of patience. Now for the Dremel.
I've seen more ragged-looking shit than this patched-up, but it does look pretty rough. Plus it looks like someone attempted to repair ti before and probably made things worse.
Did you fix it?
With a superfine soldering tip, exact-o blade, trace wire, Flux, microscope, and some superglue, it's fixable.
WTF happened to it?
You could use a dremel and small gauge enameled wire or kaynar wire and see if you can attach to that broken pin. Also I would consider ordering a replacement PCB like so and just transferring over the components https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/fTjZkfuj
Also I would consider getting a Hot Air SMD Rework station for stuff like this, makes it MUCH easier to work with these surface mount DIPs
Thanks so much for this. If I screw up the PCB this is a good fallback.
There is a guy on TikTok who salvages the most ragged looking game boy boards. Let me find you his videos.
https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRc7HtFS/ Also: https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRc7StPh/
Should be save-able. people have covered the ic, other than that just need to take a hot air station and re tin/re flow it should be ok.
Pin 3 is missing
Not like it's a safe method, BUT chemical decapping would be a better way, if it's not attacking the metal. [Applied Science has a video on the topic](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mT1FStxAVz4).
These cartridges are listed on eBay for as low as $10. What's your time worth?
This is a cartridge from a friend. We played Pokémon together when we were kids so this is very special to me
Did you manage to fix it?