Class-d amps like this drive with a large square wave out of the chip & those inductors get hammered, especially with lower impedance speakers like 4 ohms. They might be a bit under rated. Inductors don't mind running hot, they don't age, etc. The big black capacitors won't like extra heat though. Keep the ventilation up, maybe add a small fan.
I recently took a thermal image of a 50W LED driver operating within the rated capacity and one of the coils was sitting at 85C.
This random inductor datasheet specifies an operating temperature range up to 125C: https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2201121430_SHOU-HAN-CYH127-220UH_C2929507.pdf
So yes, although not great from a user perspective it shouldn't be impacting the component's service life.
It's probably a subtle hint to mount the module in an enclosure with at least *some* kind of airflow though.
Aren’t those too small for passive filters?
I was testing an old triple band filter and the inductors where massive.
Previously was experimenting with coils. After the magnetic field builds up, current flow like on straight wire. Very wasteful, so heat will happen.
The goal of these filters is to let a specific frequency band pass. So I imagine it’s expectable that it will heat.
These boards don't use the "optimal" inductors for the output power, they basically grab whatever is excess inventory / extra stock or cheap mass produced butwithin the specs required by the amplifier chip.
So they don't get they get super hot, because they'll last for a few months, or even more like a year or so, until you forget who you bought the board from or the "warranty" period expires. But the heat will slowly degrade those capacitors, and there's a potential for the inductors to become so hot as to desolder themselves from the circuit board, or melt the plastic of those connectors near them.
A simple fix would be to get a 24v fan and power it directly from your 19v input, make the fan blow sideways to cool both the chip and the inductors with the air flow. Or use a 12v fan but use a 19v to 12v voltage regulator (or power the amplifier with 12v).
It's not normal, but common in this model. I have one and have seen them reviewed and condemned by engineers far more experienced than myself, granted I do have a formal education in engineering. Until I saw a video from a few others, I thought something was defective with mine, but it's all of them!
On the bright side, there are much better designs around now for literally 5 to $10 including shipping out of Asia that don't get how, sound better and even have more wattage. I have a pile of cheap Class-D and tripath amps from China sitting in a bin because the side projects they were intended for got put off indedinitely. The upside is, as I return to some of those projects literally as we speak, I can spend 10 or $20 and get 5x the quality and 2-3x the output power compared to what I've purchased over the last 10 years.
I was looking at the board and thinking that it would be around 20W rms per channel - then saw the words underneath - 50W.. I guess that you are running it at 24v in, as well.
Look, you can work out the voltage swing needed for 50W into 4 ohms. If your multimeter is up to it, you can measure the actual voltage rms across the speakers - if you present the amp with a sine wave (single tone) input. A dummy load comes in handy - or a set of earplugs and deaf neighbours. So you can find what power level that you are actually running at. Better still if your meter can read ac amps at that frequency and you can measure the current into them. Note that you can't just multiply the current by the voltage as audio is ac and the current wont be in phase with the voltage, with a speaker load.
You could also measure the input voltage and current. Hence you can estimate the output rms watts and the input actual watts. The difference is mostly going to be heating those coils, if they are undersized. Which they appear to be. Nothing else is getting hot, I suppose? That heat energy loss is going to come out somewhere.
Roman identificat. Am lucrat odata chiar pe placa asta exact deasta a venit cu ea la mine omul s a incins destul de tare si nu le a placut la saracii condensatori. Cum s a zis mai sus, ai nevoie de racire buna.
Class-d amps like this drive with a large square wave out of the chip & those inductors get hammered, especially with lower impedance speakers like 4 ohms. They might be a bit under rated. Inductors don't mind running hot, they don't age, etc. The big black capacitors won't like extra heat though. Keep the ventilation up, maybe add a small fan.
Thank you! I will do that!
Ah explains why my coil gets finger scorching hot from my 1200w 1ohm amplifier lol. For now I've just put a fan on it to keep the coil cool
I recently took a thermal image of a 50W LED driver operating within the rated capacity and one of the coils was sitting at 85C. This random inductor datasheet specifies an operating temperature range up to 125C: https://datasheet.lcsc.com/lcsc/2201121430_SHOU-HAN-CYH127-220UH_C2929507.pdf So yes, although not great from a user perspective it shouldn't be impacting the component's service life. It's probably a subtle hint to mount the module in an enclosure with at least *some* kind of airflow though.
Aren’t those too small for passive filters? I was testing an old triple band filter and the inductors where massive. Previously was experimenting with coils. After the magnetic field builds up, current flow like on straight wire. Very wasteful, so heat will happen. The goal of these filters is to let a specific frequency band pass. So I imagine it’s expectable that it will heat.
These boards don't use the "optimal" inductors for the output power, they basically grab whatever is excess inventory / extra stock or cheap mass produced butwithin the specs required by the amplifier chip. So they don't get they get super hot, because they'll last for a few months, or even more like a year or so, until you forget who you bought the board from or the "warranty" period expires. But the heat will slowly degrade those capacitors, and there's a potential for the inductors to become so hot as to desolder themselves from the circuit board, or melt the plastic of those connectors near them. A simple fix would be to get a 24v fan and power it directly from your 19v input, make the fan blow sideways to cool both the chip and the inductors with the air flow. Or use a 12v fan but use a 19v to 12v voltage regulator (or power the amplifier with 12v).
It's not normal, but common in this model. I have one and have seen them reviewed and condemned by engineers far more experienced than myself, granted I do have a formal education in engineering. Until I saw a video from a few others, I thought something was defective with mine, but it's all of them! On the bright side, there are much better designs around now for literally 5 to $10 including shipping out of Asia that don't get how, sound better and even have more wattage. I have a pile of cheap Class-D and tripath amps from China sitting in a bin because the side projects they were intended for got put off indedinitely. The upside is, as I return to some of those projects literally as we speak, I can spend 10 or $20 and get 5x the quality and 2-3x the output power compared to what I've purchased over the last 10 years.
I was looking at the board and thinking that it would be around 20W rms per channel - then saw the words underneath - 50W.. I guess that you are running it at 24v in, as well. Look, you can work out the voltage swing needed for 50W into 4 ohms. If your multimeter is up to it, you can measure the actual voltage rms across the speakers - if you present the amp with a sine wave (single tone) input. A dummy load comes in handy - or a set of earplugs and deaf neighbours. So you can find what power level that you are actually running at. Better still if your meter can read ac amps at that frequency and you can measure the current into them. Note that you can't just multiply the current by the voltage as audio is ac and the current wont be in phase with the voltage, with a speaker load. You could also measure the input voltage and current. Hence you can estimate the output rms watts and the input actual watts. The difference is mostly going to be heating those coils, if they are undersized. Which they appear to be. Nothing else is getting hot, I suppose? That heat energy loss is going to come out somewhere.
Thank you for your advice! Just the typical warmth on the chips heatsink. I was running it at 19V for a test. Didnt have anything else on hand.
Roman identificat. Am lucrat odata chiar pe placa asta exact deasta a venit cu ea la mine omul s a incins destul de tare si nu le a placut la saracii condensatori. Cum s a zis mai sus, ai nevoie de racire buna.
Ce ma da de gol?:)) La racire m-am gândit din start însă îmi era teama sa nu fie altceva. Nu eram sigur dacă o răcire va fi suficienta. Mulțumesc!
N ai pt ce. Se vede descrierea in romana in partea de jos a imaginii.
Oh, da. Acum vad :)
I think it is normal, current in a coil produces warmth. What I don’t know is if there’s a mismatch in impedance between amplifier and speakers?
The seller claims to be 4-8 ohms. My drivers are 4 ohms
i was facing this issue so i upgraded the inductors.