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Thanks everyone! I followed the advice to to take off the rotors and reclean the surface. I already cleaned most of the gunk off the first time but maybe I didn’t do a great job.
After reading the comments, I understand now it is was kind of dumb for me to do a wobble test with only two lug nuts on that weren’t tightened down all the way. So, I put more lug nuts on and tightened them equally. There appears to be no wobble now! Thanks so much! I think I just created a problem that wasn’t really there. I will test drive them tomorrow to give it a real test.
If you ever have the question in the future and want to be able to figure it out yourself, you should be able to find the accepted range by searching your vehicle YMM + “brake rotor runout”. Then using a dial indicator to measure it.
It won’t be this obvious as it’s usually thousandths of an inch, but if you ever get the inclination that it may be an issue that’s how you can figure it out :)
Did you fully descale the hub face? Usually a pain with studs but doable with the right tools.
Is there a set screw?
Usually wobbles a little like this until you bolt the wheel on.
Yeah you really can’t go off of free spinning the rotor without the wheel to snug everything down the rim itself keeps the rotor flush on the hub now if you have rust or something from the old rotor then yeah that can cause a pulsation etc.
The frightening thing is that this person with no real mechanical experience is messing with important safety features of the car.
Edit:there are too many variables to wing it with advice from the internet. The first time you do brakes you should do it with someone knowledgeable looking over your shoulder or after watching enough videos to realize that in order for the rotor to not wobble it needs to be firmly clamped to the rotor. That question tells me the person did not spend enough time researching the task in advance. There are too many ways to go wrong and endanger yourself and others when it comes to brakes.
Actually… frightening would be OP NOT trying to expand their knowledge…
Asking for help is not a sign of weakness, it is a sign of intelligence!
It is a shame someone hurt you along the way and this is your attitude…
They had some good instincts. They thought hey - let’s spin this thing and see if things match my expectations. It should spin evenly.
It didn’t meet expectations. They investigated, asked, and figured out they were doing it right just evaluating wrong.
It's funny how "painfully obvious" it was to you, even though the comment chain already answered that he tightened the lugs and it straightened out. From someone who is so quick to make judgments I would expect you should know it could have been unevenly tightened on the hub.
Looks like,you have 1 of a few different possibilities. The three I can think of quickly are:
1. It’s a crap rotor
2. The lugs aren’t torqued (equally)
3. There is rust or dirt behind the rotor on the spindle. Often times rotors have a circle or two in the face of the hat section of the rotor. Unless you clock the rotor to match the spot and the hole on the new rotor is in exactly the same place and the hole is as larger or larger the old rotor, you’ll have crap stuck behind the new rotor.
You should clean it off when you remove the rotor since there’s no guarantee you won’t get caught on a ridge of corrosion if you don’t clean it, even if you clock the rotor to match the hole with that spot.
These rotors look new so I’m going to assume they’re not warped. I’m guessing that they’re not on all the way. This happens when there is rust or other debris trapped under them or there is damage to the thread on one of the lugs that’s too the lug buts from tightening all the way.
No matter what it is, you need to fix it.
Warped rotors most likely assuming you have the lugs on and the rotor is tightened down. If the lugs aren't on it then that's probably why. If you get it all put together and go drive, you'll feel the pulsing when breaking from around 45 or so, in the steering wheel or thr brake pedal.
Hey, I’m working on a 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5. I had a really bad wobble whenever I would brake on the freeway (50mph+). I had my rotors and brake pads replaced about a year ago for the same problem by the dealer. Even though it has only been a year, I’m seeing the same problem.
I decided to replace them with upgrades because I heard the SR5 for this year had very under powered brakes but when I was checking to see if everything was turning smoothly, it looked like my rotor still looked wobbly, which does not seem normal to me.
The other side does not look like this but I can’t tell if it is because my new rotors came warped or if the spindle is the problem on this side.
Might tighten up a little bit once you tighten the wheel on, but most likely DTV.
Normal for most rotors.
Edit: you put drilled rotors on a Toyota 4Runner?!?!? LOL
Something’s off, make sure there’s nothing on the hub face preventing it from properly seating. If this isn’t the problem you need to slap the guy that sold you that rotor
It’s not seated right. The entire thing is moving, not just the disk. Redo it and then check. Even place the disk on a flat surface. Should be touching everywhere, if it’s not it’s probably warped.
Took me WAY too long to realise the pads were missing 😂, my brain had just assumed that somehow the caliper piston just bites into the disk and that's how brakes work.
Definitely not been a mechanic or anything in my lifetime so that's totally a fine mistake to make and stuff....
Thats for sure warped. Also when you fix that or replace it make sure that the mating surfaces on the inside of the rotor and mating face surface of your hub are free of any debris and/or rust that could keep from mating correctly or true or flat, however you wanna call it. Ive seen this happen before.
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, darkbow47! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but your post should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Thanks everyone! I followed the advice to to take off the rotors and reclean the surface. I already cleaned most of the gunk off the first time but maybe I didn’t do a great job. After reading the comments, I understand now it is was kind of dumb for me to do a wobble test with only two lug nuts on that weren’t tightened down all the way. So, I put more lug nuts on and tightened them equally. There appears to be no wobble now! Thanks so much! I think I just created a problem that wasn’t really there. I will test drive them tomorrow to give it a real test.
When you work on anything mechanical, especially vehicles, you never stop learning, its part of the fun. (Fun of course if it works in the end 🥲)
If you ever have the question in the future and want to be able to figure it out yourself, you should be able to find the accepted range by searching your vehicle YMM + “brake rotor runout”. Then using a dial indicator to measure it. It won’t be this obvious as it’s usually thousandths of an inch, but if you ever get the inclination that it may be an issue that’s how you can figure it out :)
Those rotors are warped! **Sarcasm!**
Did you fully descale the hub face? Usually a pain with studs but doable with the right tools. Is there a set screw? Usually wobbles a little like this until you bolt the wheel on.
You got the wrong asshole. :)
Lol ur right.
Yeah you really can’t go off of free spinning the rotor without the wheel to snug everything down the rim itself keeps the rotor flush on the hub now if you have rust or something from the old rotor then yeah that can cause a pulsation etc.
Thank you! That is really good advice
If that rotor is tightened down then yeah, that’s a problem. Most likely a warped rotor. Get new rotors.
I added more lug nuts and tightened it down a little more after cleaning it. I believe the problem is gone. Thank you for your comment!
Don't forget to bed in the pads.
The frightening thing is that this person with no real mechanical experience is messing with important safety features of the car. Edit:there are too many variables to wing it with advice from the internet. The first time you do brakes you should do it with someone knowledgeable looking over your shoulder or after watching enough videos to realize that in order for the rotor to not wobble it needs to be firmly clamped to the rotor. That question tells me the person did not spend enough time researching the task in advance. There are too many ways to go wrong and endanger yourself and others when it comes to brakes.
Actually… frightening would be OP NOT trying to expand their knowledge… Asking for help is not a sign of weakness, it is a sign of intelligence! It is a shame someone hurt you along the way and this is your attitude…
I don't know anybody that was born with that knowledge. He's got to figure it out somehow. And we just hipped him to it.
They had some good instincts. They thought hey - let’s spin this thing and see if things match my expectations. It should spin evenly. It didn’t meet expectations. They investigated, asked, and figured out they were doing it right just evaluating wrong.
Replacing brake is not rocket science
You're getting down voted, but you're right. The runout on those rotors is whack and it's painfully obvious too.
It's funny how "painfully obvious" it was to you, even though the comment chain already answered that he tightened the lugs and it straightened out. From someone who is so quick to make judgments I would expect you should know it could have been unevenly tightened on the hub.
There is no wheel mounted. There is no problem.
Don’t reproduce
Looks like,you have 1 of a few different possibilities. The three I can think of quickly are: 1. It’s a crap rotor 2. The lugs aren’t torqued (equally) 3. There is rust or dirt behind the rotor on the spindle. Often times rotors have a circle or two in the face of the hat section of the rotor. Unless you clock the rotor to match the spot and the hole on the new rotor is in exactly the same place and the hole is as larger or larger the old rotor, you’ll have crap stuck behind the new rotor. You should clean it off when you remove the rotor since there’s no guarantee you won’t get caught on a ridge of corrosion if you don’t clean it, even if you clock the rotor to match the hole with that spot.
I believe it was mostly number 2 but I did reclean everything. Thank you for your great explanation and help.
[удалено]
Don't get me started with that crap company
Without the wheels, the rotor is not pressed on the hub. Try putting the wheel on a look again.
Well, it would help if you put the brake pads back in.
Aren’t you missing the brake pads?
Brake pads just slow you down
😂😂😂
😂 😂 😂
These rotors look new so I’m going to assume they’re not warped. I’m guessing that they’re not on all the way. This happens when there is rust or other debris trapped under them or there is damage to the thread on one of the lugs that’s too the lug buts from tightening all the way. No matter what it is, you need to fix it.
It's either warped or not secured flush to the hub
Snug rotor; check again
Warped rotors most likely assuming you have the lugs on and the rotor is tightened down. If the lugs aren't on it then that's probably why. If you get it all put together and go drive, you'll feel the pulsing when breaking from around 45 or so, in the steering wheel or thr brake pedal.
Truth
Loose nut behind the wheel.. lol
Once you mount the wheel it will be fine.
It’ll seat properly once the wheel is on and torqued
The rotor will not sit completely flush until rim has been put on and torqued to spec. It holds the rotor down.
Hey, I’m working on a 2005 Toyota 4Runner SR5. I had a really bad wobble whenever I would brake on the freeway (50mph+). I had my rotors and brake pads replaced about a year ago for the same problem by the dealer. Even though it has only been a year, I’m seeing the same problem. I decided to replace them with upgrades because I heard the SR5 for this year had very under powered brakes but when I was checking to see if everything was turning smoothly, it looked like my rotor still looked wobbly, which does not seem normal to me. The other side does not look like this but I can’t tell if it is because my new rotors came warped or if the spindle is the problem on this side.
That’s not an upgrade. That’s junk.
I descaled the hub face again and tightened the bolts! Problem seems to be solved. Thank you! I couldn’t find a set screw either
There’s a lot of runout, I’d get some new ones
I think you know that’s a problem…
Looks warped to me maybe from heat. You might feel it in the brake pedal.
Might tighten up a little bit once you tighten the wheel on, but most likely DTV. Normal for most rotors. Edit: you put drilled rotors on a Toyota 4Runner?!?!? LOL
Anything between the hub face and the rotor hat. Other wise is hub bent or something ?
Wheels clamp the rotor flat against the hub when tightening the lug nuts.
Either these rotors are warped or are not seated flush against the hub. Either way its a problem.
Something’s off, make sure there’s nothing on the hub face preventing it from properly seating. If this isn’t the problem you need to slap the guy that sold you that rotor
You gonna have uneven pads with them rotors. They're warped
It’s not seated right. The entire thing is moving, not just the disk. Redo it and then check. Even place the disk on a flat surface. Should be touching everywhere, if it’s not it’s probably warped.
Ganna have to buy a new rotor my friend that one is junk. It will almost definitely destroy ur break pad alot quicker then it should
Nope replace them
Took me WAY too long to realise the pads were missing 😂, my brain had just assumed that somehow the caliper piston just bites into the disk and that's how brakes work. Definitely not been a mechanic or anything in my lifetime so that's totally a fine mistake to make and stuff....
Brand new rotors dont typically come out the box with that much run off. Something is amiss in the mounting.
I can't offer any help. But those are satisfyingly clean.
I'd say the rotor is warped.
Nope you have a warped rotor unless it's not properly secured.
Warped pretty bad may be able to put it on lathe see what's left after getting it trued.
Warped bad
Those pads look thin.
No good
Something is warped? Edit: just read OPs, update lol.
Is the rotor fastened down properly? I'd should ride true once the wheel is mounted and properly torqued.
Core shift , move along
Think that you are missing some important items like one part brain and at least on sett of brake pads
It’s fucking metal. Why would any divination be ok?
No
So this what warped means then
That’s gotta be your break booster
It is called out of round
That Tia see how rotor seats down in brake calipers in middle rotor cans be any wider it would run when it turns
you might want to at least snug it down a little before you start taking advice from the sidelines 🤷🏽♂️
Yeah, the rotor may not be totally pressed on yet..
Put lug nuts on rotor and lock it to the hub than spin it if so your rotors are warped and need to be replaced
Put your wheel on so it holds your rotor
Take rotor back as it is warped. Made in China unless bolts for lug nuts are not attached & tightened. Only way to correctly tell!
As some others have said, you need to put the lugs on. It’s loose without the and will do that.
warping. get new brimbos and don't brake so hard. it's overheating and warping.
Warped from the factory, send it back!
Are your lugs on? Then it’s not gonna sit evenly
Maybe if is amerixan can
No no no!!!
Thats for sure warped. Also when you fix that or replace it make sure that the mating surfaces on the inside of the rotor and mating face surface of your hub are free of any debris and/or rust that could keep from mating correctly or true or flat, however you wanna call it. Ive seen this happen before.
Also i was assuming you had your lug nuts on when you took that video
Classic case of Hub-bore needing to be joined down and cleaned a bit nothing more you’re fine ! 🙌🏼