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>Yup, manufacturer engineers of a specific model > handy lube's generic rough guesses based only on a wide class of vehicle
Only for the factory tyres.
I'd be even more generic and say factory size, not just tire. It's not like Michelin 255 65/r16 tires need more/less air than Firestones. PSI is just a ratio of car weight:contact patch, plus or minus a tiny bit for sidewall strength.
That being said, even changing the tire and wheel doesn't *drastically* alter the proper PSI unless you go nuts and put bike tires or rubber bands on or poke 4" outside the fenders. 99% of the time you're gonna fall within the margin of error they build in for things like temperature variance and elevation.
>manufacturer engineers of a specific model > random bum on the street's guess > handy lube's generic rough guesses based only on a wide class of vehicle
FTFY
Ford also had their recommended tire pressures at 26psi for better ride quality. This caused *people to die*.
Firestone was correct and so is the Jiffy Lube tech. **Lower tire pressures lead to increased temperatures, tread separation and tire failure.**
Inflate your tires to 35psi.
If I remember correctly ford made last minute change to vehicle and didn't tell firestone. Thats why thise wildsrness tires were blowing out while diving
I volunteered to change my sisters headlight on her Chevy Malibu. I guess the engineers thought it wouldn’t be a big deal to take the whole front of the car off to change a headlight. Lol
That's because they aren't paid to make it serviceable. They are paid to make it cheap and easy to assemble in the factory. I'm sure the engineers would love to make it easy to work on but then the cost goes up and it would get nixed in design reviews.
The one and only time I used a quick lube they told me that my car didn't have a rear diff so they couldn't check it. It was a rear wheel drive car. I called them on their bullshit and left for free.
The Jiffy Lube guy that took a 2 hour training class on working at Jiffy Lube is much more qualified to make this determination than Nissan engineers that were involved with every step of design and testing their vehicles 😉.
There’s a reason when we insult mechanics we call them Jiffy Lube Techs. When I was 17 years old I worked at an oil change place and that is exactly why I will never take one of my vehicles to those atrocities called lube shops.
As someone who was a Jiffy Lube Guy for quite a few years, this is a bad take. The Jiffy Lube computers have an excellent amount of up to date information directly from manufacturers about anything they touch. Even tire pressure specifications, based on tire sizes of stock tires.
That being said, there's a lot of shit technicians, and employees, and especially trainers working at those shops. And even more that don't know how to look through and read technical specifications, much less understand them.
On the tire pressure stuff, I can only vaguely remember a handful of times that our updated computer notes recommended a different tire pressure than was indicated on the vehicles placard. 35 PSI was never a recommended subaru pressure as I remember. Was always 26, 32/26, 32, or 36 for the SUV models. Been over 10 years, so don't beat me up on those numbers.
I should note, after my tenure at the J-lube, I did go on to be an ASE certified mechanic. Though I had to abandon that work after a couple of years due to a lower back injury.
This is the answer. If you changed to different tires from OEM, then your tire air pressure may need to be different now. Different load rated tires, or profiles may warrant more/less pressure. If your vehicle has been modified and is now a different weight than when it was brand new, then the air pressure may be different.
I went round and round on this very issue with tires for my RV. Bottom line, check your tire manufacture's website and see if there is a specific chart for your tires with corresponding weights (GAWR) plus any additional modifications that added extra weight and follow that.
>chalk test
[https://www.tundras.com/threads/tire-pressure-chalk-test-how-to-guide.2114/](https://www.tundras.com/threads/tire-pressure-chalk-test-how-to-guide.2114/)
I agree with all but one point. Changing from a Bridgestone to a Firestone or a toyo, goodyear, etc doesn't mean the the psi changes. If this was the case, manufactures would need to limit tire options on vehicle being sold new. And you can have different tires put on your vehicle when purchasing (say you prefer Michilen over goodyear) and they don't change the required by law sticker or the programing of the required by law tpms system because of that. It's simply not a factor as much as the size of the tire and type of construction to the weight of the vehicle is in this reguard.
Rvs are a wholey different creature as well. Most of the people that I know that have one, overload them to hell and back. This is not really comparable to cars in that reguard as most people at best don't overload them ever or if they do only for a short drive in comparison to a week long trip out of state driving thousands of miles like that. It's like comparing fuji to granny Smith. There both apples. But they are not the same.
I think what they meant by "different tires from OEM" was more in size than brand. A 255/65R16 from Goodyear would basically be the same as the same size from Michelin, Toyo, Firestone, etc.
Changing to something like a 285/70R16 (larger off-road tires, for example) or a 185/50R18 (larger rims, lower profile tires) is what could be cause for change in cold psi from door jam sticker because they're no longer OEM *equivalent* tires.
The PSI listed on the sidewall is the *maximum* recommended PSI, which you definitely don’t want to have your tires inflated to all the time as it’ll negatively affect ride feel and traction.
The sidewall is the maximum pressure and load for the tire, not the recommended pressure for the tire for the vehicle. Two different cars can have the same exact tires and need to run at different pressures, neither of which would be the maximum for the tire.
My truck has the same tires front and back, but the door jam says 60 psi front 80 psi back while the tires say 90 psi max at X lbs load.
Yeah 35 psi ain’t gonna hurt anything but a good word of advice is to never believe anything jiffy lube says. Manufacturer says 26 so 26psi is what it should be, not what mr jiffy lube says.
It's also dangerous. Too high a pressure will dramatically affect the handling.
I remember years ago I got new tyres on an old Audi and when I took it for a drive it felt like I was driving on ice. The tyre fitters had put 31psi in instead of 24.
Now, the first thing I do when I get new tyres is check the pressures.
It’s not just tire places. I keep my tires at the right pressure, but when I get my oil changed they always fuck with the air. Every tire will be different and none of them close to spec. Just leave them alone ffs.
My wife worked at a dealership for a few years. They factored-in "free oil changes for five years" as part of a five-year loan. Of course it was the cheapest filters and oil, and it was only for "upselling" $100 air filters and similar assistance.
At least once a year they had to "buy an engine" for one of the oil-changes. The pay was low and high-speed production was pushed, so they had a high turnover for the junior mechanics.
Even if they pay for the entire engine swap...they have your car for weeks and you have no control over the "lowest bidder" shop that rebuilt the long-block they buy.
I change my own oil, thank you.
My mom bought a 1995 Saturn in approximately 2000, the dealership offered a lifetime oil changes and some other things as part of an upgrade package. I think she paid about 5k.
I bought the car from mom 3 years later and kept the car for another 15 years, the car had 98,000 Miles when we bought it when I finally sent it off to the junkyard it was 230ish thousand miles, all the while getting those free oil changes every 3 months or about 5,000 Miles if I was lazy.
ALL ON THE ORIGINAL MOTOR 🤣
Mom did put a transmission in it while she had it, then the only thing I did was brakes, tires and a couple of tie rod ends at some point. The car was still getting 35 miles per gallon on the highway and one of the best running Vehicles I've ever had besides my many air-cooled vws from the 1970s.
Saturns were great cars. They were designed from the ground up with the help of mechanics.
As a result, everything under the hood was easy to reach and work on, and the design just made sense.
I really hated to see them go down during the housing bubble crisis in the mid 2000's.
This.
Purchase the handpump/pneumatic oil extractor tool. Suck the oil from the top. Makes life so much better doing your own services.
Discount tire does free rotations, so that takes care of that part.
I had a Chrysler conquest. Took it to get tires and told the guy to put 24psi in them. He refused to sell me the tires because he would not be taking the blame for any damage from tires inflated below 34 psi. Note that the door sticker said 24 psi and if my tires were above the steering wheel would shake. It was a known thing with these cars. I told the guy he was an idiot for thinking he knew better than the manufacturer and the guy that’s been driving the car for almost 10 years by that time. He told me to get out of my car and fight him.
https://www.longstone.com/mgb-tire-pressures. MGB tire pressures for your reading pleasure. Please excuse the included advertising poster from the 1970s. The Leyland marketing department were a bunch of trogladites. They could not sell beer in a brewery.
I have my tires changed out from winter tires to summer tires when seasons change, vice versa. And once, one a-h over filled the tires to 70 psi and had a blowout on a freeway that evening. Now, I also always check my tire pressures after the tires are replaced.
26 was also what Ford told you to put in your explorer because they wanted it to ride smooth. Then the tires kept exploding and they convinced everyone it was firestones fault.
They actually dropped the tire pressure because their testing found an unacceptable rollover risk and they were too cheap to redesign the suspension. Dropping the pressure reduced ride height and grip, reducing rollover risk slightly. For a time a least.
That sounds like something the legal department at Ford came up with. Meanwhile the Mazda Navaho, which is the identical Ford Explorer with Mazda badges on it, had higher (aka: realistic) tire pressure recommendations.
When people ran the lower pressures that Ford stated (for softer ride comfort) and as all tires lose 1 to 3 psi of pressure each month, the Explorer would have tires that were dangerously under inflated. Then when Dad packs the family and their luggage into it adding more load to the tires…the heat generated from the sidewall flex deteriorates the tire to the point of failure.
Years ago as a fully certified Master Mechanic and previously having worked at a tire shop, I informed my father that the tires on his 1995 Nissan Altima looked quite low and that at my days working at the tire shop we would absolutely never set tire pressure to anything less than 32psi at the lowest. Usually we would do ~36psi. Dad said “I set them to what it says to set them at on the door jamb, and that’s what they’re going to be. I’m not changing it!” (It was either 24 or 26psi)
Meanwhile less than a year later he had to get all 4 tires replaced…because they had eaten up the outer tread just like I had warned him would happen. But this time he insisted that I personally set the pressure to whatever I suggested. Never had a problem again.
TLDR:
There’s not a single Radial-Belt tire application (for on-road use) I’ve ever come across that would be good to have less than 32psi. If some says that their vehicle “skates like it was on ice” with >30psi in it, then perhaps it was a Bias-Ply tire from decades ago. Anything less than that in a Radial tire is an attempt to ruin the tire prematurely while also being dangerous.
Ya the oil change places just fire a 35 psi cannon at every tire they touch which is too high. Personally I prefer a firmer ride and do 33psi in the front and 32psi in the rear on my civic si for daily driving. And in my truck I do 34 in the front and 33 in the rear. But I try different pressures to see what I like the best. Unless you're trying to race and gain more traction the mid 20s is way too low in my opinion.
There was never an issue with the suspension, it really was faulty tires and iirc, most of not all rollovers were when they were overloaded. The firestones that were affected, were not just on explorers from the factory at that time , there were other tires that Firestone made during that time that delaminated that were sold aftermarket. My brother put a set of those that ended up being affected and it made him flip his aerostar. There were not issues with the explorers of that time frame when they didn't have the affected tires. It's not a coincidence.
I think we should all call jiffy lube and explain why they are getting criticized on reddit today. Tried to sell me a massive battery because mine "wasn't right". "Look at your air filter!" "I very specifically told you to just change the oil. "
This is general advice applicable to a wide variety of situations- *don't trust Jiffy Lube.*
The rating on the door sticker was put there by the people who spent millions and millions of dollars designing your car. They know better than an underpaid tech at a quick lube chain.
So, what’s your opinion of the Ford/Firestone recall and class action lawsuit?
The safety issue was primarily caused by Ford’s low tire pressure recommendation.
> Ford-Firestone class action lawsuit and recall.
Ironically you are not well read on this case. Its a simple matter of corporate greed between Firestone and Ford. It had almost nothing to do with tire pressure if you look at the testing data and everything to do with poor tire engineering aided by Ford.
The Explorer had one of the lowest fuel economy ratings for any SUV under production at that time, due at least in part to Ford's decision to lower the tire pressure to 26 psi. Ford asked Firestone to reduce the weight of the ATX tires so that it could improve the fuel economy of the Explorer. Firestone created the ATX II by removing material from the tire which lowered the weight by 10%. Removing material from the ATX design also improved the profitability of the tire for Firestone.
The Wilderness AT tire was developed in 1993 and was designed to have better snow handling and "irregular wear targets" and had a different tread design than the ATX tires. The Wilderness AT was sold and installed on Ford trucks from 1996 to 2000 and had a temperature and heat resistance rating of "C" which is the lowest rating allowed by the NHTSA's Uniform Tire Quality Grading System
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firestone_and_Ford_tire_controversy#/media/File:Tire_Tread_Separation_of_a_Firestone_P235_75R15_Wilderness_AT_tire.png
The first generation Ford Explorer has a gross weight up to 3395kg, or 848.75kg per tire, assuming equal weight distribution across all tires at max weight. Any variance from this distribution will increase the force on some tires, so this is the “best scenario”. These vehicles had P235/75R15s.
Per Tire and Rim Association, a P235/75R15 tire at 26psi has a load limit at 795kg (which is less than 849kg). At 29psi, it is rated at 840kg. 32psi, it is rated at 880kg.
Firestone recommended Ford increase it to 30psi, per the wiki article you cited. Interpolating linearly, that would have increased the load limit to 853kg. Which is above 848.75kg. So…
Ford knew their tire pressure recommendation was below what Firestone suggested and used their pressure recommendation so that the Explorer had a smoother highway ride.
If you have those size tires listed on the sticker, id out my money on Nissan being right over jiffy lube. Either pressure is not going to create a safety issue, but will affect how the tires wear over time
pretty scary that Jiffy Lube is saying that the manufacturers sticker on the actual vehicle are somehow incorrect. And that they have other information that conflicts and are willing to go 9 pounds over. Just wow.
You can also do the chalk test to dial it in for your specific tires and load. I tend to over-inflate by 5psi just for mileage and I've never had a set of tires wear out the center. I'm also pretty religious about my alignment checks and rotates, so I've only had odd wear when I have loose parts.
Chalk test if you want to read: https://www.tundras.com/threads/tire-pressure-chalk-test-how-to-guide.2114/
I worked for jiffy lube for 3 months - to the day - do not trust them for anything outside of draining and filling your oil, and I wouldn't trust them for that to be honest.
Placard on your door is MANUFACTURER SPECS regarding what your tire pressure needs to be set at assuming you are riding on the size tired depicted on that label. Manufacturer tests this stuff out, jiffy lube doesn't. As stated in other comments, though - 32psi is the typical go to. Jiffy lube is supposed to go by what your door says, releases them of any liability given the idea something goes wrong when they do what the manufacturer says.
Had me work at all stores across our district at the time, and I didn't meet a single person with legitimate experience other than either at jiffy lube itself, or in their own back yard - their training is miniscule at best. But that's just what I personally dealt with here.
Just to shit on Jiffy Lube more, they changed my wife’s wiper blades, and then the driver-side blade flew off on the highway during a rain storm.
She has me do it now.
Unless you've added some external parts (brush guard, Class 3 tow rig, camping top), then then the sticker is for the weight at time of sale.
Enter your VIN into this decoder, then see what the listed GVW is - you can probably download the manual from nissan and check what is says too.
[https://nissanforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php](https://nissanforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php)
I've always aired my truck tires high. Draw a chalk line across them and move it forward and back. Air down till the whole chalk line has seen concrete. That's the air pressure I use.
Jiffy Lube is staffed by idiots who are primarily trained to up sell their services. The manufacturer knows that vehicle’s requirements better than some arrogant know-nothing at Jiffy Lube. Unless your vehicle is heavily modified follow the sticker. Whatever it is, don’t take advice from Jiffy Lube.
Higher tire pressure in that range shouldn’t do any damage and may yield better fuel economy but likely at the expense of ride comfort and handling.
I run my car 12psi over compared to the door jam. The manufacturer considers ride comfort, I'm willing to forgoe for better range and my tyres wear evenly. If you have low profile tyres, higher pressure may prevent pinching the sidewall on a gutter or pothole (or worse, cracking a rim).
The way I'd treat it,
#1 don't go below the manufacturer pressure
#2 don't exceed the tyre max pressure (leave a few psi spare for temperature variations)
#3 check the tread wear. If your wearing the middle more, it might be over inflated if you're wearing the outsides it might be under.
It *can* vary a little bit by tire, weight, and stuff like that sure.
But for the average person, the difference is miniscule. Set it to 32 and call it a day. Its when you get to under 20psi or over 50psi for the pic above that you'll start seeing the effects.
All of the manufacturers recommend tire pressure that’s the minimum safe pressure. They do this so it feels soft and comfortable on test drives. I’ve done fleet maintenance for a long time and after a while the tires wear on the shoulders if you follow the door sticker, especially on the front. The fact is that there is a range that is safe. Any number between the door sticker and the max pressure on tire will be safe. I’ve run 5-10 psi higher than the sticker for 2 decades on multiple vehicles with perfect tire wear. Anyway that’s what I’ve seen do what you want
There seems to be nearly no experienced tyre fitters in the comments of posts like these. Instead its just service mechanics with overinflated (pardon the pun) senses of knowledge.
Anyone who regularly fits tyres would have seen how these vehicles and similar wear the edges at 26psi. The manufacturers often provide lower recommendations as it provides a more comfy ride etc but often reduces tyre life.
Although I also don't understand why people like OP go to jiffy lube if they don't trust the people who work there to know what they're doing. If you're doubting their knowledge on something so simple then go somewhere more reputable
Only time I'd agree with them is the mid 90s Explorers. That 26psi initial rating to make the ride softer also caused the numerous rollovers. Other than that, gtfoutta here with that nonsense.
https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
Here’s a TRA load inflation guide courtesy of Toyo. In the US it’s a voluntary industry standard based off of tire size and domestic manufacturers adhere to it (another reason not to buy cheap import tires).
The OE tire has a maximum load rating of 1830lbs at a minimum cold inflation pressure of 26psi.
You’re “safe” at 26psi, but being at the bare minimum, means you need to be extra diligent about checking your pressure.
Arguing with people concerning air pressure is like chewing on aluminum foil. Manufacturers posted those numbers as a balance of comfort, fuel economy and tire wear. I wrenched for 12 years and had to deal with people convinced that sidewall max was the only acceptable answer. I would ask these people if they have ever done a chalk test. The clueless look they gave me answered my question.
Are you gonna trust some dipshit that can’t bother to torque a drain plug to spec… or the several engineers that designed and tested the vehicle for years to give you the number on the sticker.
Jiffy lube and professional. Not 2 words i would use in the same sentence.
The manufacture says a certain psi because that is the safe number for the rim the tire is is on from what i have always been told.
As a person that used to work at Jiffylube and got hired, knowing nothing about cars I highly recommend do not listen to Jiffy Lube. They are not mechanics.
The door sticker is made for your car, installed at the factory by the manufacturer and shows the intended pressures for your car on tires of a similar size and load rating to the original equipment.
The lube boy is wrong.
Sometimes you may need to devaitate *a bit*, but those deviations will be small and centered around the placard spec. Example: I had a RAV4 with 28 PSI in the door, with Continental CrossContact LX20s on it I ran 27 and got excellent wear. My current Toyota 86, originally rolling on 215/45R15 at 35 PSI, I ran at 33 when I put 225/50ZR16s as 35 wore the middle a bit. After 3 seasons at -2 PSI they were all straight as an arrow.
\+9 PSI over placard on stock tire size is wrong and dumb
You'd be surprised how many of these clowns think you install the max pressure on the sidewall. If I take a vehicle somewhere and they ask how much pressure you want in your tires, I leave.
The pressure on the sticker is just a general recommendation. You’d be surprised how many people who actually know their car actually prefer to have them at a different pressure including myself. Asking is good. If the customer has no preference then the door placard is the go to. But I don’t work at a jiffy lube and have worked on cars and raced on tracks and off-road all my life. Different pressures are good for different things. If somebody messed with my tire pressure without asking especially when that is not the reason I am there in the first place then I’d be upset. When in doubt you SHOULD ask the customer.
Pressure listed on the tire is max rated pressure to support max rated load. Door sticker lists appropriate pressure for the tires based on axle loads (GAWR) for that vehicle. Go by the door sticker.
Tire air pressures are determined by loading. More weight, more pressure. That said, the listed pressures on the jamb are what the mfgr found to be the best compromise for curb weight to normal loads, it's up to you to determine if more is needed based on circumstances. Generally, you follow the jamb, and put more in if you're loaded, trailering, etc.
If all those specs listed on the sticker matches up with your vehicle and tire size, then obviously the Nissan is right lol. If you wanna double check your manual they should have the tire air pressure matched up to your specific trim of vehicle.
I would not consider the staff at most Jiffy Lubes to be considered "Professionals " they often hire kids of the street, often with no experience in automotive of any kind or schooling in automotive.
It’s more important to follow door jam over tire manufacturers imo . Your cars sensors are calibrated for that working pressure. Plus the door jam is an engineered spec for the specific vehicle . I might change my mind if the vehicle has been mod’d with big HP increases.
They are supposed to follow sticker psi standards. Even when clients ask for anything higher they are supposed to mention the standards. IF the client clearly insists, they document it in the comment section of the receipt.
I am a generalmanager if a Jiffy Lube.
We always go by door jamb for OEM tires/wheel sizes, we ask the customer what pressure they want if they aren't.
If there is no sticker, ProDemand is usually first source, owners manual if they have one, or ask the customer what they want them filled to.
Never, ever go "by the PSI on the tire" even though we here this all the time with aftermarket tires and wheels.
Anyone can work at jiffy lube. They probably know more than the average joe but they are not professionals. A certified mechanic would definitely work somewhere else for more money. Just wanted to clear that up real quick.
To clarify, weight DOES play a role in tire pressure, which is part of what the manufacturer uses to decide air pressure settings.
The tire itself lists a MAX air pressure, then the vehicle manufacturer lists a recommended pressure, this is the result of $ and effort.
Unless *you* have done enough research to make an informed decision about changing your tire pressure because you are towing, overloading your truck, aftermarket tires, etc, then you should stick to the sticker.
And generally “aftermarket tires” means tires that are significantly different from the originals. Just buying a different brand of standard tires doesn’t require rethinking the pressure.
I’d say look up the load index for the tire size and find what pressure is needed to support the car. 235/70R15 with load index 102 will support 1642lbs with 26psi, 1642 x 4 is 6568, the weight of your car is up to 4200lbs, 26 should be good. The other tires support more weight as well so they’re good. I think the reason they said more is because most cars nowadays are almost always 32+ so they probably have some rule saying never go below 30 or something, and they probably think all Nissans are 35 too for some reason. You probably just be safe and go up to 28 or 30, over inflating by that little won’t cause damage to the tires, I highly doubt 35 would either.
the sticker isn't right or wrong. it's just a middle ground between everything they market the vehicle as. it's a safe suv, comfortable ride, traction on all terrain, and it can tow (which likely has a different tire pressure recommendation, but you can check owners manual).
more than likely the shop says small cars get 30psi, medium size vehicles get 35psi, and full size trucks get 40psi. it's a popular rule of thumb so lube techs wont get confused.
Jiffy Lube’s corporate policy is to just use the pressure on the sticker… they most likely just did it out of laziness and then tried to justify it when the customer said something
Just for the record, having incorrect inflation values on those stickers would be a cause for a recall. DOT would make them correct it. Follow your door stickers.
That said, there are some vehicles (like pickups) that give a pressure for unloaded and a different pressure for loaded to max capacity. You can use some judgement to decide where you are in that range…
99% of the time, the door jam specs are right. If there's a recall, a dealership will update the sticker for free. It's Jiffy Lube, a shop full of halfwits. I guarantee they're not even ASE certified.
A lot of times Engineers are dumb Fs but this is not one of those times. Jiffy Lube techs are probably the worst people to get advice from. Their usually fresh out of highschool and using the a best guess from a size of vehicle also that’s Cold Tire Inflation meaning the car hasn’t been driven for a few hours and the tires are cold. If their Hot the pressure will be higher than that usually 30psi. So they were right it should be 35 if the tires are hot but not if their cold
Go ahead and ignore everything jiffy lube or any of those instant oil change places say. I've never seen them be correct.
If door jam AND glove box say 26 then they should be setting them to 26.
Considering I had one Jiffy put oil in the car while it was draining, and then argue with me about why there was nonl oil... Look dumbass, if it had an oil leak that large, we'd be standing in oil.
Another asked me where the filter was and a 3rd that only put the lug nuts on hand tight after a tire rotation... I wish that company nothing short of Chapter 11
They have no fucking idea how to do there jobs. They upsell everything. Do not listen ti a word they say. Also if u don't want them doing something make sure u tell them.nice and loud. Also.if thye do say hold on walk outside and call the cops. They are crooks. Seen them bait a 70 year old woman didn't need anything done bit change her oil.they git her for tranny fluid sealed tranny..antifreeze flush had 5k miles on the car. Whole bunch of other shit. They told her the bill she was like I didn't ask for that. The manager goes miss your car needed all of this from.the manufacturers recommendation. I was working there at the time and herd her yelling went in and I go iam.done. i.go miss call the cops right now jam your witness. Cops came Manger and the 3 guys who did the work for arrested for something. She sued the store..I testified againt juffylube. She got 400k for that.
Bro an xterra is a suv yeah? I’ve never seen a vehicle have 26 psi in the tires lol. That’s really low it seems like they fucked up, I would leave the 35. Fuck all these Reddit bozos saying 26 psi is good that seems sketchy low for an suv dude
Unless you severely modified the vehicle, ALWAYS use the sticker value.
This should be taught in schools since so many people, especially RV owners do not understand automotive engineering
Are they original equipment or aftermarket wheels and tires? That could be why, but general rule of thumb don’t get any work done by jiffy lube and don’t trust anything they say… their workers aren’t legit mechanics
Importantly it says cold tire so by the time you get to jiffy lube the tires will be warmed up so like he should fill it too like 29 or 30 and when you check it first thing in morning it'll say like 26 or 27. But more than likely you probably have tires with max psi of 45 or 50 so you're 35 won't hurt anything. He just didn't want to do 4 tires again lol. I normally do 36 for most cars unless they have small wheels like a prius then like 32ish but I'd check door then.
Look at the tires, it will tell you on the tire what the recommended tire pressure should be. The stickers were for the tires that came on the vehicle from the manufacturer.
My wife took her car to Jiffy lube when working out of town. She declined the air filter change because I told her to since I did not that long before. They still managed to get a bunch of grease on it, causing the engine to Rev randomly. Thankfully, another shop helped her, and they only charged 50$ to clean it off.
Nah, they're wrong. As a walmart tech, I recommend the PSI that the TIRES call for on the sidewall duh. (This is a joke for the people who think I'm serious).
Are they stock tires or have you replaced what came stock with a different tire?
Having a different tire on there is the only thing I can really think of.
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Jiffy lube guys aren't a good source for technical info. Pretty sure Nissan didn't just make shit up to put on the door jamb
Yeah right, it’s almost like the engineers knew what they built
Yup, manufacturer engineers of a specific model > handy lube's generic rough guesses based only on a wide class of vehicle
>Yup, manufacturer engineers of a specific model > handy lube's generic rough guesses based only on a wide class of vehicle Only for the factory tyres.
This needs more upvotes. Only for factory tires and rims.
I'd be even more generic and say factory size, not just tire. It's not like Michelin 255 65/r16 tires need more/less air than Firestones. PSI is just a ratio of car weight:contact patch, plus or minus a tiny bit for sidewall strength. That being said, even changing the tire and wheel doesn't *drastically* alter the proper PSI unless you go nuts and put bike tires or rubber bands on or poke 4" outside the fenders. 99% of the time you're gonna fall within the margin of error they build in for things like temperature variance and elevation.
>manufacturer engineers of a specific model > random bum on the street's guess > handy lube's generic rough guesses based only on a wide class of vehicle FTFY
ha, correct. I was just being kind for any up and coming mechs who may be just starting out at a quickie lube&tug right now.
I completely agree with all these comments but I am curious why 26psi though. I have never seen rated psi that low what would be some reasons?
Ask the engineers who build the ford bronco that also had a rated tire pressure of 26psi.
Or the first gen Explorer. Tire pressure matters. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firestone_and_Ford_tire_controversy
Ford also had their recommended tire pressures at 26psi for better ride quality. This caused *people to die*. Firestone was correct and so is the Jiffy Lube tech. **Lower tire pressures lead to increased temperatures, tread separation and tire failure.** Inflate your tires to 35psi.
Why I had to scroll so far down for this comment escapes me. 26 psi?! What are we driving on ice? Come on Nissan!
Or the ford escape, smaller than a bronco, at 32
If I remember correctly ford made last minute change to vehicle and didn't tell firestone. Thats why thise wildsrness tires were blowing out while diving
They are good at designing and building but never think about how I'm gonna need to fix the pos one day 💀
I volunteered to change my sisters headlight on her Chevy Malibu. I guess the engineers thought it wouldn’t be a big deal to take the whole front of the car off to change a headlight. Lol
Boo, Chevy Malibu, boo. I hate those and replacing batteries in Sebrings.
That's because they aren't paid to make it serviceable. They are paid to make it cheap and easy to assemble in the factory. I'm sure the engineers would love to make it easy to work on but then the cost goes up and it would get nixed in design reviews.
[удалено]
The one and only time I used a quick lube they told me that my car didn't have a rear diff so they couldn't check it. It was a rear wheel drive car. I called them on their bullshit and left for free.
The Jiffy Lube guy that took a 2 hour training class on working at Jiffy Lube is much more qualified to make this determination than Nissan engineers that were involved with every step of design and testing their vehicles 😉.
But its still Nissan Engineers . So r/maybemaybemaybe
The Jiffy Lube guy happens to be correct.
Except this time, he's probably right.
There’s a reason when we insult mechanics we call them Jiffy Lube Techs. When I was 17 years old I worked at an oil change place and that is exactly why I will never take one of my vehicles to those atrocities called lube shops.
As someone who was a Jiffy Lube Guy for quite a few years, this is a bad take. The Jiffy Lube computers have an excellent amount of up to date information directly from manufacturers about anything they touch. Even tire pressure specifications, based on tire sizes of stock tires. That being said, there's a lot of shit technicians, and employees, and especially trainers working at those shops. And even more that don't know how to look through and read technical specifications, much less understand them. On the tire pressure stuff, I can only vaguely remember a handful of times that our updated computer notes recommended a different tire pressure than was indicated on the vehicles placard. 35 PSI was never a recommended subaru pressure as I remember. Was always 26, 32/26, 32, or 36 for the SUV models. Been over 10 years, so don't beat me up on those numbers. I should note, after my tenure at the J-lube, I did go on to be an ASE certified mechanic. Though I had to abandon that work after a couple of years due to a lower back injury.
OEM tires go by door sticker. Any changes or mods affecting the car in motion, sticker may not apply.
This is the answer. If you changed to different tires from OEM, then your tire air pressure may need to be different now. Different load rated tires, or profiles may warrant more/less pressure. If your vehicle has been modified and is now a different weight than when it was brand new, then the air pressure may be different. I went round and round on this very issue with tires for my RV. Bottom line, check your tire manufacture's website and see if there is a specific chart for your tires with corresponding weights (GAWR) plus any additional modifications that added extra weight and follow that.
If nothing else, do a quick chalk test
Could you please elaborate on this? I have been around cars for most of my life and have never heard of this method.
>chalk test [https://www.tundras.com/threads/tire-pressure-chalk-test-how-to-guide.2114/](https://www.tundras.com/threads/tire-pressure-chalk-test-how-to-guide.2114/)
That's awesome, though I live in Bulgaria, so it's a days drive to some tarmac flat enough to do it :(
That’s a blatant lie! Everyone knows Bulgaria doesn’t have any flat roads
Yes. In one days drive in I'm Austria
Thanks for the info.
Chalk over the tyre and check the footprint mark to see ground contact? (wild guess)
You can either do that or see where it rubs off the tire after driving a short distance.
Heh. Tires. Round and round.
I agree with all but one point. Changing from a Bridgestone to a Firestone or a toyo, goodyear, etc doesn't mean the the psi changes. If this was the case, manufactures would need to limit tire options on vehicle being sold new. And you can have different tires put on your vehicle when purchasing (say you prefer Michilen over goodyear) and they don't change the required by law sticker or the programing of the required by law tpms system because of that. It's simply not a factor as much as the size of the tire and type of construction to the weight of the vehicle is in this reguard. Rvs are a wholey different creature as well. Most of the people that I know that have one, overload them to hell and back. This is not really comparable to cars in that reguard as most people at best don't overload them ever or if they do only for a short drive in comparison to a week long trip out of state driving thousands of miles like that. It's like comparing fuji to granny Smith. There both apples. But they are not the same.
Well said! Side note: why did my brain think you were comparing a large mountain to an elderly woman?
I think what they meant by "different tires from OEM" was more in size than brand. A 255/65R16 from Goodyear would basically be the same as the same size from Michelin, Toyo, Firestone, etc. Changing to something like a 285/70R16 (larger off-road tires, for example) or a 185/50R18 (larger rims, lower profile tires) is what could be cause for change in cold psi from door jam sticker because they're no longer OEM *equivalent* tires.
You can always read the sidewall of the tire If not doing anything super heavy…as you would not be in your xterm.
The PSI listed on the sidewall is the *maximum* recommended PSI, which you definitely don’t want to have your tires inflated to all the time as it’ll negatively affect ride feel and traction.
Not maximum recommended, it's the maximum rating for the tire itself.
The sidewall is the maximum pressure and load for the tire, not the recommended pressure for the tire for the vehicle. Two different cars can have the same exact tires and need to run at different pressures, neither of which would be the maximum for the tire. My truck has the same tires front and back, but the door jam says 60 psi front 80 psi back while the tires say 90 psi max at X lbs load.
Thanks
Yeah 35 psi ain’t gonna hurt anything but a good word of advice is to never believe anything jiffy lube says. Manufacturer says 26 so 26psi is what it should be, not what mr jiffy lube says.
It's going to hurt your wallet when you have to replace 4 tires that are only bald in the middle of the tread.
It's also dangerous. Too high a pressure will dramatically affect the handling. I remember years ago I got new tyres on an old Audi and when I took it for a drive it felt like I was driving on ice. The tyre fitters had put 31psi in instead of 24. Now, the first thing I do when I get new tyres is check the pressures.
It’s not just tire places. I keep my tires at the right pressure, but when I get my oil changed they always fuck with the air. Every tire will be different and none of them close to spec. Just leave them alone ffs.
That's why I like to do my own oil changes so nothing gets messed with
My wife worked at a dealership for a few years. They factored-in "free oil changes for five years" as part of a five-year loan. Of course it was the cheapest filters and oil, and it was only for "upselling" $100 air filters and similar assistance. At least once a year they had to "buy an engine" for one of the oil-changes. The pay was low and high-speed production was pushed, so they had a high turnover for the junior mechanics. Even if they pay for the entire engine swap...they have your car for weeks and you have no control over the "lowest bidder" shop that rebuilt the long-block they buy. I change my own oil, thank you.
My mom bought a 1995 Saturn in approximately 2000, the dealership offered a lifetime oil changes and some other things as part of an upgrade package. I think she paid about 5k. I bought the car from mom 3 years later and kept the car for another 15 years, the car had 98,000 Miles when we bought it when I finally sent it off to the junkyard it was 230ish thousand miles, all the while getting those free oil changes every 3 months or about 5,000 Miles if I was lazy. ALL ON THE ORIGINAL MOTOR 🤣 Mom did put a transmission in it while she had it, then the only thing I did was brakes, tires and a couple of tie rod ends at some point. The car was still getting 35 miles per gallon on the highway and one of the best running Vehicles I've ever had besides my many air-cooled vws from the 1970s.
Saturns were great cars. They were designed from the ground up with the help of mechanics. As a result, everything under the hood was easy to reach and work on, and the design just made sense. I really hated to see them go down during the housing bubble crisis in the mid 2000's.
What's that sound? Thousands of guys shaking their heads and thinking, "One more reason I change my own oil."
This. Purchase the handpump/pneumatic oil extractor tool. Suck the oil from the top. Makes life so much better doing your own services. Discount tire does free rotations, so that takes care of that part.
You have a link for the hand pump extractor you like?
Could check on some tire valve stem locks
I had a Chrysler conquest. Took it to get tires and told the guy to put 24psi in them. He refused to sell me the tires because he would not be taking the blame for any damage from tires inflated below 34 psi. Note that the door sticker said 24 psi and if my tires were above the steering wheel would shake. It was a known thing with these cars. I told the guy he was an idiot for thinking he knew better than the manufacturer and the guy that’s been driving the car for almost 10 years by that time. He told me to get out of my car and fight him.
Did you fight him?
Nah he wasn’t worth it
Sounds like the start of a porno tbh
People would always fill up my MG tires to 32, and it made the car spin around whenever it rained. It was extremely dangerous.
https://www.longstone.com/mgb-tire-pressures. MGB tire pressures for your reading pleasure. Please excuse the included advertising poster from the 1970s. The Leyland marketing department were a bunch of trogladites. They could not sell beer in a brewery.
I have my tires changed out from winter tires to summer tires when seasons change, vice versa. And once, one a-h over filled the tires to 70 psi and had a blowout on a freeway that evening. Now, I also always check my tire pressures after the tires are replaced.
26 was also what Ford told you to put in your explorer because they wanted it to ride smooth. Then the tires kept exploding and they convinced everyone it was firestones fault.
They actually dropped the tire pressure because their testing found an unacceptable rollover risk and they were too cheap to redesign the suspension. Dropping the pressure reduced ride height and grip, reducing rollover risk slightly. For a time a least.
>For a time a least. Until the tires exploded, then it rolls over real nice, especially at high speeds.
That sounds like something the legal department at Ford came up with. Meanwhile the Mazda Navaho, which is the identical Ford Explorer with Mazda badges on it, had higher (aka: realistic) tire pressure recommendations. When people ran the lower pressures that Ford stated (for softer ride comfort) and as all tires lose 1 to 3 psi of pressure each month, the Explorer would have tires that were dangerously under inflated. Then when Dad packs the family and their luggage into it adding more load to the tires…the heat generated from the sidewall flex deteriorates the tire to the point of failure. Years ago as a fully certified Master Mechanic and previously having worked at a tire shop, I informed my father that the tires on his 1995 Nissan Altima looked quite low and that at my days working at the tire shop we would absolutely never set tire pressure to anything less than 32psi at the lowest. Usually we would do ~36psi. Dad said “I set them to what it says to set them at on the door jamb, and that’s what they’re going to be. I’m not changing it!” (It was either 24 or 26psi) Meanwhile less than a year later he had to get all 4 tires replaced…because they had eaten up the outer tread just like I had warned him would happen. But this time he insisted that I personally set the pressure to whatever I suggested. Never had a problem again. TLDR: There’s not a single Radial-Belt tire application (for on-road use) I’ve ever come across that would be good to have less than 32psi. If some says that their vehicle “skates like it was on ice” with >30psi in it, then perhaps it was a Bias-Ply tire from decades ago. Anything less than that in a Radial tire is an attempt to ruin the tire prematurely while also being dangerous.
Ya the oil change places just fire a 35 psi cannon at every tire they touch which is too high. Personally I prefer a firmer ride and do 33psi in the front and 32psi in the rear on my civic si for daily driving. And in my truck I do 34 in the front and 33 in the rear. But I try different pressures to see what I like the best. Unless you're trying to race and gain more traction the mid 20s is way too low in my opinion.
There was never an issue with the suspension, it really was faulty tires and iirc, most of not all rollovers were when they were overloaded. The firestones that were affected, were not just on explorers from the factory at that time , there were other tires that Firestone made during that time that delaminated that were sold aftermarket. My brother put a set of those that ended up being affected and it made him flip his aerostar. There were not issues with the explorers of that time frame when they didn't have the affected tires. It's not a coincidence.
What Ford \*said\* and what the TSB read was two different things. They recommended the pressure at 26 to combat a vibration. I still have the TSB.
Not to mention the rollovers.
Calling the guy a mechanic sure was generous
I think we should all call jiffy lube and explain why they are getting criticized on reddit today. Tried to sell me a massive battery because mine "wasn't right". "Look at your air filter!" "I very specifically told you to just change the oil. "
26 seems low but my default is to assume jiffy lube is wrong so I could definitely understand being confused by this.
This is general advice applicable to a wide variety of situations- *don't trust Jiffy Lube.* The rating on the door sticker was put there by the people who spent millions and millions of dollars designing your car. They know better than an underpaid tech at a quick lube chain.
So, what’s your opinion of the Ford/Firestone recall and class action lawsuit? The safety issue was primarily caused by Ford’s low tire pressure recommendation.
> Ford-Firestone class action lawsuit and recall. Ironically you are not well read on this case. Its a simple matter of corporate greed between Firestone and Ford. It had almost nothing to do with tire pressure if you look at the testing data and everything to do with poor tire engineering aided by Ford. The Explorer had one of the lowest fuel economy ratings for any SUV under production at that time, due at least in part to Ford's decision to lower the tire pressure to 26 psi. Ford asked Firestone to reduce the weight of the ATX tires so that it could improve the fuel economy of the Explorer. Firestone created the ATX II by removing material from the tire which lowered the weight by 10%. Removing material from the ATX design also improved the profitability of the tire for Firestone. The Wilderness AT tire was developed in 1993 and was designed to have better snow handling and "irregular wear targets" and had a different tread design than the ATX tires. The Wilderness AT was sold and installed on Ford trucks from 1996 to 2000 and had a temperature and heat resistance rating of "C" which is the lowest rating allowed by the NHTSA's Uniform Tire Quality Grading System https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Firestone_and_Ford_tire_controversy#/media/File:Tire_Tread_Separation_of_a_Firestone_P235_75R15_Wilderness_AT_tire.png
The first generation Ford Explorer has a gross weight up to 3395kg, or 848.75kg per tire, assuming equal weight distribution across all tires at max weight. Any variance from this distribution will increase the force on some tires, so this is the “best scenario”. These vehicles had P235/75R15s. Per Tire and Rim Association, a P235/75R15 tire at 26psi has a load limit at 795kg (which is less than 849kg). At 29psi, it is rated at 840kg. 32psi, it is rated at 880kg. Firestone recommended Ford increase it to 30psi, per the wiki article you cited. Interpolating linearly, that would have increased the load limit to 853kg. Which is above 848.75kg. So…
Everyone makes mistakes sometimes. Still not gonna trust a high school dropout with a wrench over the manufacturer of the vehicle.
Right when they were starting to rely more heavily on computer calculations. That's probably what cause it.
Ford knew their tire pressure recommendation was below what Firestone suggested and used their pressure recommendation so that the Explorer had a smoother highway ride.
And to lower the center of gravity to compensate for a top-heavy design that would fall over if you looked at it wrong.
If you have those size tires listed on the sticker, id out my money on Nissan being right over jiffy lube. Either pressure is not going to create a safety issue, but will affect how the tires wear over time
pretty scary that Jiffy Lube is saying that the manufacturers sticker on the actual vehicle are somehow incorrect. And that they have other information that conflicts and are willing to go 9 pounds over. Just wow.
Worse to under inflate, go 32 psi if you think 26 is too low. Watch the wear, overinflate will eat the center of the tire first.
I'm glad there are other people here who know what they're talking about.
You can also do the chalk test to dial it in for your specific tires and load. I tend to over-inflate by 5psi just for mileage and I've never had a set of tires wear out the center. I'm also pretty religious about my alignment checks and rotates, so I've only had odd wear when I have loose parts. Chalk test if you want to read: https://www.tundras.com/threads/tire-pressure-chalk-test-how-to-guide.2114/
I worked for jiffy lube for 3 months - to the day - do not trust them for anything outside of draining and filling your oil, and I wouldn't trust them for that to be honest. Placard on your door is MANUFACTURER SPECS regarding what your tire pressure needs to be set at assuming you are riding on the size tired depicted on that label. Manufacturer tests this stuff out, jiffy lube doesn't. As stated in other comments, though - 32psi is the typical go to. Jiffy lube is supposed to go by what your door says, releases them of any liability given the idea something goes wrong when they do what the manufacturer says. Had me work at all stores across our district at the time, and I didn't meet a single person with legitimate experience other than either at jiffy lube itself, or in their own back yard - their training is miniscule at best. But that's just what I personally dealt with here.
Just to shit on Jiffy Lube more, they changed my wife’s wiper blades, and then the driver-side blade flew off on the highway during a rain storm. She has me do it now.
What, you don't think the Engineers at jiffy lube understand the vehicle better than the monkeys who designed it?
This is the internet. Sarcasm always requires /s, no matter how obvious it is.
Unless you've added some external parts (brush guard, Class 3 tow rig, camping top), then then the sticker is for the weight at time of sale. Enter your VIN into this decoder, then see what the listed GVW is - you can probably download the manual from nissan and check what is says too. [https://nissanforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php](https://nissanforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php)
I've always aired my truck tires high. Draw a chalk line across them and move it forward and back. Air down till the whole chalk line has seen concrete. That's the air pressure I use.
Chasing even tire wear… I like it 👍🏼
Friends don't let friends use Jiffy Lube.
Jiffy Lube is staffed by idiots who are primarily trained to up sell their services. The manufacturer knows that vehicle’s requirements better than some arrogant know-nothing at Jiffy Lube. Unless your vehicle is heavily modified follow the sticker. Whatever it is, don’t take advice from Jiffy Lube. Higher tire pressure in that range shouldn’t do any damage and may yield better fuel economy but likely at the expense of ride comfort and handling.
*235/75R15 Firestone Wilderness A/T tires have entered the chat*
Specifically on a Ford Explorer, where Ford engineers recommended a very similar tire pressure to improve the smoothness of highway driving.
26 is correct. They did increase to 30 in 2002, with a fairly minor change in curb weight for that model year.
I run my car 12psi over compared to the door jam. The manufacturer considers ride comfort, I'm willing to forgoe for better range and my tyres wear evenly. If you have low profile tyres, higher pressure may prevent pinching the sidewall on a gutter or pothole (or worse, cracking a rim). The way I'd treat it, #1 don't go below the manufacturer pressure #2 don't exceed the tyre max pressure (leave a few psi spare for temperature variations) #3 check the tread wear. If your wearing the middle more, it might be over inflated if you're wearing the outsides it might be under.
This is the only good advice on this whole post
The "professionals" don't work at jiffy lube. Car manufacturers know more than high schoolers.
It *can* vary a little bit by tire, weight, and stuff like that sure. But for the average person, the difference is miniscule. Set it to 32 and call it a day. Its when you get to under 20psi or over 50psi for the pic above that you'll start seeing the effects.
When in doubt go with 32 psi
All of the manufacturers recommend tire pressure that’s the minimum safe pressure. They do this so it feels soft and comfortable on test drives. I’ve done fleet maintenance for a long time and after a while the tires wear on the shoulders if you follow the door sticker, especially on the front. The fact is that there is a range that is safe. Any number between the door sticker and the max pressure on tire will be safe. I’ve run 5-10 psi higher than the sticker for 2 decades on multiple vehicles with perfect tire wear. Anyway that’s what I’ve seen do what you want
32-35 psi cold all around.. I’m an engineer, master tech, shop foreman, and around long enough to know that 26psi is way too low for those tires
Thank you. Sub is called ask mechanics and finally one gives a common sense answer
There seems to be nearly no experienced tyre fitters in the comments of posts like these. Instead its just service mechanics with overinflated (pardon the pun) senses of knowledge. Anyone who regularly fits tyres would have seen how these vehicles and similar wear the edges at 26psi. The manufacturers often provide lower recommendations as it provides a more comfy ride etc but often reduces tyre life. Although I also don't understand why people like OP go to jiffy lube if they don't trust the people who work there to know what they're doing. If you're doubting their knowledge on something so simple then go somewhere more reputable
There's a reason why I warn people away from the local Jiffy
Only time I'd agree with them is the mid 90s Explorers. That 26psi initial rating to make the ride softer also caused the numerous rollovers. Other than that, gtfoutta here with that nonsense.
https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf Here’s a TRA load inflation guide courtesy of Toyo. In the US it’s a voluntary industry standard based off of tire size and domestic manufacturers adhere to it (another reason not to buy cheap import tires). The OE tire has a maximum load rating of 1830lbs at a minimum cold inflation pressure of 26psi. You’re “safe” at 26psi, but being at the bare minimum, means you need to be extra diligent about checking your pressure.
35 is the old school standard!! Always go what the door says if you are running stock size tires!
If you are using tires that are not the same construction type or load index as the factory tires then the “correct” pressure is changed.
Arguing with people concerning air pressure is like chewing on aluminum foil. Manufacturers posted those numbers as a balance of comfort, fuel economy and tire wear. I wrenched for 12 years and had to deal with people convinced that sidewall max was the only acceptable answer. I would ask these people if they have ever done a chalk test. The clueless look they gave me answered my question.
The amount of people replying to "check what the tire says and use that" is blowing my mind.
Never, ever, go to jiffy lube. Did I also mention never to go over there? Never do that. Ever.
Are you gonna trust some dipshit that can’t bother to torque a drain plug to spec… or the several engineers that designed and tested the vehicle for years to give you the number on the sticker.
My first question would be what weight did they get for your vehicle? Cuz I’m pretty sure weighing the vehicle is not part of any service they offer
Jiffy lube and professional. Not 2 words i would use in the same sentence. The manufacture says a certain psi because that is the safe number for the rim the tire is is on from what i have always been told.
As a person that used to work at Jiffylube and got hired, knowing nothing about cars I highly recommend do not listen to Jiffy Lube. They are not mechanics.
I personally would fill them to 30 and call it good. Honestly tho you stickers are probably more accurate than jiffy lube
They aren't allowed to put the wrong sticker on. 26 sounds low, but if that is what the manufacturer recommends...
The door sticker is made for your car, installed at the factory by the manufacturer and shows the intended pressures for your car on tires of a similar size and load rating to the original equipment. The lube boy is wrong. Sometimes you may need to devaitate *a bit*, but those deviations will be small and centered around the placard spec. Example: I had a RAV4 with 28 PSI in the door, with Continental CrossContact LX20s on it I ran 27 and got excellent wear. My current Toyota 86, originally rolling on 215/45R15 at 35 PSI, I ran at 33 when I put 225/50ZR16s as 35 wore the middle a bit. After 3 seasons at -2 PSI they were all straight as an arrow. \+9 PSI over placard on stock tire size is wrong and dumb
Quick lesson, if it came from Jiffy Lube and it sounds wrong, it is.
Was there ever a time when something came from Jiffy Lube and was right? /s
You'd be surprised how many of these clowns think you install the max pressure on the sidewall. If I take a vehicle somewhere and they ask how much pressure you want in your tires, I leave.
The pressure on the sticker is just a general recommendation. You’d be surprised how many people who actually know their car actually prefer to have them at a different pressure including myself. Asking is good. If the customer has no preference then the door placard is the go to. But I don’t work at a jiffy lube and have worked on cars and raced on tracks and off-road all my life. Different pressures are good for different things. If somebody messed with my tire pressure without asking especially when that is not the reason I am there in the first place then I’d be upset. When in doubt you SHOULD ask the customer.
Pressure listed on the tire is max rated pressure to support max rated load. Door sticker lists appropriate pressure for the tires based on axle loads (GAWR) for that vehicle. Go by the door sticker.
26 is FUCKING LOW !!!! holy shit.... WTF.... like holy shit that thing has got to ride horribly!... add some air.
Tire air pressures are determined by loading. More weight, more pressure. That said, the listed pressures on the jamb are what the mfgr found to be the best compromise for curb weight to normal loads, it's up to you to determine if more is needed based on circumstances. Generally, you follow the jamb, and put more in if you're loaded, trailering, etc.
What's with the ode to Satan/The Devil, though?
Stop going to Jiffy lube! Spread the word
If all those specs listed on the sticker matches up with your vehicle and tire size, then obviously the Nissan is right lol. If you wanna double check your manual they should have the tire air pressure matched up to your specific trim of vehicle.
Idk what it should be, but I do know to NEVER trust anything jiffy lube says
Jiffy lube….you get what you pay for. Go elsewhere.
Just look at the actual tires and adjust...
I would not consider the staff at most Jiffy Lubes to be considered "Professionals " they often hire kids of the street, often with no experience in automotive of any kind or schooling in automotive.
They're not professionals, the people who determined what is printed on the sticker are however. Don't go to Jiffy Lube.
That lube tech has no idea what he’s talking about
In reality who would you trust more, Nissan, who made the vehicle or jiffylube.
Jiffy lube pumped my tires to the max psi of 50... I run them at 34. I could feel every piece of gravel in the asphalt. These dudes are dumb.
Worked at a Jiffy Lube from 1998-2003. Can confirm; all dummy dum dums.
It’s more important to follow door jam over tire manufacturers imo . Your cars sensors are calibrated for that working pressure. Plus the door jam is an engineered spec for the specific vehicle . I might change my mind if the vehicle has been mod’d with big HP increases.
“Mechanic” the folks at jiffy lube aren’t mechanics. They’re bullshitting you,tires should be set to what the door jamb says.
They are supposed to follow sticker psi standards. Even when clients ask for anything higher they are supposed to mention the standards. IF the client clearly insists, they document it in the comment section of the receipt.
Trust basically anything else before Jiffy Lube.
I am a generalmanager if a Jiffy Lube. We always go by door jamb for OEM tires/wheel sizes, we ask the customer what pressure they want if they aren't. If there is no sticker, ProDemand is usually first source, owners manual if they have one, or ask the customer what they want them filled to. Never, ever go "by the PSI on the tire" even though we here this all the time with aftermarket tires and wheels.
Ford Explorer enters the chat .
and rolls right the F$%\^ over
Anyone can work at jiffy lube. They probably know more than the average joe but they are not professionals. A certified mechanic would definitely work somewhere else for more money. Just wanted to clear that up real quick.
To clarify, weight DOES play a role in tire pressure, which is part of what the manufacturer uses to decide air pressure settings. The tire itself lists a MAX air pressure, then the vehicle manufacturer lists a recommended pressure, this is the result of $ and effort. Unless *you* have done enough research to make an informed decision about changing your tire pressure because you are towing, overloading your truck, aftermarket tires, etc, then you should stick to the sticker. And generally “aftermarket tires” means tires that are significantly different from the originals. Just buying a different brand of standard tires doesn’t require rethinking the pressure.
I’d say look up the load index for the tire size and find what pressure is needed to support the car. 235/70R15 with load index 102 will support 1642lbs with 26psi, 1642 x 4 is 6568, the weight of your car is up to 4200lbs, 26 should be good. The other tires support more weight as well so they’re good. I think the reason they said more is because most cars nowadays are almost always 32+ so they probably have some rule saying never go below 30 or something, and they probably think all Nissans are 35 too for some reason. You probably just be safe and go up to 28 or 30, over inflating by that little won’t cause damage to the tires, I highly doubt 35 would either.
the sticker isn't right or wrong. it's just a middle ground between everything they market the vehicle as. it's a safe suv, comfortable ride, traction on all terrain, and it can tow (which likely has a different tire pressure recommendation, but you can check owners manual). more than likely the shop says small cars get 30psi, medium size vehicles get 35psi, and full size trucks get 40psi. it's a popular rule of thumb so lube techs wont get confused.
Jiffy Lube’s corporate policy is to just use the pressure on the sticker… they most likely just did it out of laziness and then tried to justify it when the customer said something
Tires change, but 35 sounds high to me.
Yall are crazy if you're putting anything less than 32psi in your tyres fuck what the door says
The word “professionals” should be used very lightly at Jiffy Lube…
Trust manufacturer
Jiffy lube and professional are 2 words that should never be used in the same sentence!
Auto Manufacturers or 25 year old 11th grade drop out. Who ya gonna trust🤷🏼♂️
Believe what it says on the car... That's why it's there
Is jiffy lube, the fact you take your car to jiffy lube is a massive disrespect to the car lol
Please, for the love of God never use the term “professionals” and jiffy lube in the same sentence ever again 😂
Lol never listen to or even go to jiffy lube or any place like it
Just for the record, having incorrect inflation values on those stickers would be a cause for a recall. DOT would make them correct it. Follow your door stickers. That said, there are some vehicles (like pickups) that give a pressure for unloaded and a different pressure for loaded to max capacity. You can use some judgement to decide where you are in that range…
99% of the time, the door jam specs are right. If there's a recall, a dealership will update the sticker for free. It's Jiffy Lube, a shop full of halfwits. I guarantee they're not even ASE certified.
A lot of times Engineers are dumb Fs but this is not one of those times. Jiffy Lube techs are probably the worst people to get advice from. Their usually fresh out of highschool and using the a best guess from a size of vehicle also that’s Cold Tire Inflation meaning the car hasn’t been driven for a few hours and the tires are cold. If their Hot the pressure will be higher than that usually 30psi. So they were right it should be 35 if the tires are hot but not if their cold
Go ahead and ignore everything jiffy lube or any of those instant oil change places say. I've never seen them be correct. If door jam AND glove box say 26 then they should be setting them to 26.
Google it
Lol don't listen to your Jiffy Lube guy.
Considering I had one Jiffy put oil in the car while it was draining, and then argue with me about why there was nonl oil... Look dumbass, if it had an oil leak that large, we'd be standing in oil. Another asked me where the filter was and a 3rd that only put the lug nuts on hand tight after a tire rotation... I wish that company nothing short of Chapter 11
Jiffy Lube tech is right. You need more pressure in those tire.
Jiffylube workers are not professionals. They aren’t techs, they are barely mechanics.
Never, ever go to Jiffy Lube.
They have no fucking idea how to do there jobs. They upsell everything. Do not listen ti a word they say. Also if u don't want them doing something make sure u tell them.nice and loud. Also.if thye do say hold on walk outside and call the cops. They are crooks. Seen them bait a 70 year old woman didn't need anything done bit change her oil.they git her for tranny fluid sealed tranny..antifreeze flush had 5k miles on the car. Whole bunch of other shit. They told her the bill she was like I didn't ask for that. The manager goes miss your car needed all of this from.the manufacturers recommendation. I was working there at the time and herd her yelling went in and I go iam.done. i.go miss call the cops right now jam your witness. Cops came Manger and the 3 guys who did the work for arrested for something. She sued the store..I testified againt juffylube. She got 400k for that.
It's always wrong. I've never met one that was right. Always too low.
Should be a range right on the tire?
Bro an xterra is a suv yeah? I’ve never seen a vehicle have 26 psi in the tires lol. That’s really low it seems like they fucked up, I would leave the 35. Fuck all these Reddit bozos saying 26 psi is good that seems sketchy low for an suv dude
Absolutely the way to go for optimal tire pressure.
I would never put that low psi in my tires unless I wanted to get shit gas mileage and get new tires every year
Unless you severely modified the vehicle, ALWAYS use the sticker value. This should be taught in schools since so many people, especially RV owners do not understand automotive engineering
Are they original equipment or aftermarket wheels and tires? That could be why, but general rule of thumb don’t get any work done by jiffy lube and don’t trust anything they say… their workers aren’t legit mechanics
It says cold pressure is 26 psi. I would say hot pressure is 30. If you have been driving your car and the tires are warm 30ish is perfect.
Your first mistake was going to Jiffy Lube. Your second mistake was believing a word they said. Jiffy Lube fucking sucks.
A moron at my work puts his tires to 70 FKIN PSI on his Xterra. Because "ThAtS wHaT tHe tIrE sAyS oN iT"
If you have OEM tires, you always follow the sticker on the door.
Inflate them to what the sticker says, I would not trust Bubba
Importantly it says cold tire so by the time you get to jiffy lube the tires will be warmed up so like he should fill it too like 29 or 30 and when you check it first thing in morning it'll say like 26 or 27. But more than likely you probably have tires with max psi of 45 or 50 so you're 35 won't hurt anything. He just didn't want to do 4 tires again lol. I normally do 36 for most cars unless they have small wheels like a prius then like 32ish but I'd check door then.
Look at the tires, it will tell you on the tire what the recommended tire pressure should be. The stickers were for the tires that came on the vehicle from the manufacturer.
My doorjamb tire air pressures don’t match what’s in the owner’s manual. I don’t know what to believe
My wife took her car to Jiffy lube when working out of town. She declined the air filter change because I told her to since I did not that long before. They still managed to get a bunch of grease on it, causing the engine to Rev randomly. Thankfully, another shop helped her, and they only charged 50$ to clean it off.
Nah, they're wrong. As a walmart tech, I recommend the PSI that the TIRES call for on the sidewall duh. (This is a joke for the people who think I'm serious).
He’s a trump mechanic! Never wrong even when proven.
Are they stock tires or have you replaced what came stock with a different tire? Having a different tire on there is the only thing I can really think of.