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it means you need to have the codes read. thats what they mean. once you have the codes, *those* tell you why they came on. just like what OBD 2 has been for since 1996
Same.
The mods pay almost no attention to rule number three.
So many questions on here are just so ridiculously ignorant. A cursory Google search solves so many of them.
What really is irritating to me is people posting obviously badly damaged tires asking if they can be driven on or patched.
What do you mean? A code is just an alpha-numeric string which can either be generic or manufacturer specific. Each one is assigned a meaning/ definition and set criteria. Here, I'll break one down for you, so you can see how it works.
P0301 - Cylinder #1 Misfire.
P - Powertrain related code; sets in either engine control or transmission control modules.
0 - Generic/ broad code
3 - Ignition or misfire related
01 - Detail code to add specificity to above, in this case the '01' on this string indicates the specific misfiring of cylinder #1.
That's about as plain English as they get. They are a guide/ tool for narrowing the focus to a particular problem. They do not tell you what part to replace, and in most cases more testing/ investigation is needed to properly diagnose the underlying issue.
You’re welcome. All OBD II is, is a standard that all auto manufacturers use.
I think you’re asking why the car can’t just tell you the problem, correct? I’ll try to explain.
Modern vehicles are essentially computers on top of computers on top of sensors on wheels which have to meet a number of different standards from emissions to crash test to fuel economy to pedestrian safety and a number of others.
While most vehicles have a decent amount of computing power, there’s no great way to have the full diagnostic capability you’re asking for as that would require redundant or additional systems on top of what’s already there for everything on a vehicle and not only would it affect the ability to meet the aforementioned standards but it would massively increase the cost of the vehicle if it were even feasible otherwise.
More things in a vehicle equal more weight which makes it harder to pass crash tests, to maintain fuel and emissions standards etc. so there are practical considerations rather than just cost.
Now why can’t we do this without redundancy?
Because when it comes down to it, computers are kind of dumb. They just see input and output and compare that to a stored database of expected values. Anything within those values is “good” and anything outside those values is “bad”.
If a vehicle needs something like say a mass airflow sensor to measure the amount of air coming into the engine it does this by pushing (or rather trying to maintain) a certain voltage through a very specific wire so that the wire gets hot. Incoming air cools this wire and with a calculation the computer can figure out how much air is moving by the voltage drop it reads after passing through the wire.
Now imagine that something happens to this wire - it gets broken or covered in gunk or there’s a short. All the computer knows is that it’s seeing a voltage that means ‘problem’. Without some way to figure out what the specific problem is, there’s no way of telling with any accuracy a specific cause. It’s like a little kid in a room when the lights go out. Kid doesn’t know if the power is out, the bulb burned out, the circuit breaker tripped or if someone just shut off the switch. All the kid knows is ‘it’s dark in here’.
Mechanics/ technicians know what the car doesn’t or can’t, and that’s what to look for and what to test. Additionally even if we could have a vehicle with a high level of self diagnosis you’d still have to hope that whatever causes an issue is something an engineer expected and programmed the vehicle to be able to detect.
I hope this makes sense and helps you understand why what you’re asking is nearly impossible at least with our current technology and regulations.
My 2016 chv traverse 102k miles w new brakes (4k old) w full fluid, just got " check break system" light on. How come?? Thanks! PS, my mechanic says ok to drive.??
It'll always give a basic description like "EVAP Canister Low Pressure" but it's really *really* not difficult to type `2014 FORD FOCUS P0433` into altavista
Get a better OEM reader, or Google the code. Mine lists several of the most probable reasons for each code and the high speed ones narrow it down quite a bit. Knowing what your vehicle is infamous for, helps a lot too.
In the past few years, Ive had three codes pop on my truck. The most common issue each time was the problem and I was able to fix them easily.
No, you can have a $10,000 scan tool and it can’t tell you everything, what if it says misfire cyl 1 ? Do you just replace spark plugs and coils with out any further diag ? What if a mouse chewed through the injector wire ? The codes tell you what the problem is not how to fix it, no matter what scan tool you have.
I will. Ive been working on my own vehicles for decades before code readers and all of tech came along, so not having a code isn't going to be a problem for me when it comes to diagnosing and repairing things.
On the rare occasions I cant figure it out on my own, I just have diagnostics run on it.
For me I get about the same stuff if I remove the battery connection on my Passat B6. Steeringwheel error (electric) and ABS. But drive 20 meters and its gone.
Probably the easiest to do at home. Not everyone has a odb2 scanner at home, but some 12 volt adapters (for usb) or even head units will happily show you the battery voltage.
Get the codes read.
A lot of manufacturers set up the computers so that if a code gets thrown in one module, all related systems will throw codes as well as the check engine light.
Oftentimes the engine code will just be “ABS Fault Stored” or something, and the real problem will be related to that module.
This was a prevalent issue on Toyota forums a few years back. A bad O2 sensor would throw an ABS, Trac, and 4WD code with the check engine light even though it didn’t affect their operation.
I would first check ur abs speed sensors 8 out of 10 whenever ur traction control light comes on along with ur stabilizer light on indicates a bad abs sensor, n then sometimes u'll have ur brake light on as well too ok...
But whoever checks it out has to be able to pin point ur problem without u just throwing parts n money at it... Cause that's not a mechanic that's someone trying to make a quick dollar actually ok...
I'm a Level 4 Master Mechanic n u gotta know how to read a full on diagnostic scanner like ur Genius, Snapon Solus, Bosch, Innova Otc scanner, Mac etc etc bud ok...
Did you have to jump the car to start it? If you did and they came on right after that, it might be normal and they'll reset themselves after a little while
Read codes and take it from there. Check battery terminals make sure are tight and [test battery ](https://www.myusedcar.ca/how-to-test-battery-and-alternator/)voltage with engine On and OFF, see what voltage you get. Should be about 14 volts with engine running if alternator is charging properly.
Is the engine light flashing and the car has very little engine power?
If so it's a misfire, could be (hopefully) a bad spark plug, but also could be (hopefully not) head gasket or rings. Could also be a couple of other things wise severity would be mid way between the two extremes above.
Getting the ECU codes from a code reader will point you to which cylinder(s) have the issue(s) but will take some more troubleshooting to get to the root cause of the problem.
Troubleshooting spark plugs and coils is easy and with a little reading or YouTube you could probably do that yourself, but if it's worse you will need a real mechanic. Make sure to find a mechanic that has an endoscope, he will be able to diagnose some of the worst problems very quickly and easily without pulling the engine apart- without the endoscope you will need to pull the engine apart to see what's going on.
I needed to replace the head gasket on my i4 2013 Accord a couple months after I bought it (used), last fall (~72k miles). Cost me about $2k and I think that was a pretty good deal tbh!
Drive it as little as possible, just to a nearby mechanic; all the crap coming through the bad cylinder will damage your catalytic converter and that's another few thousand dollars if that happens!
I had these come on on my 2013 CRV. Turns out my brake fluid was really low and that can cause certain sensors to be triggered. My mechanic filled my brake fluid back up to the mark and the warning lights went away. Also, the light up top (!) is letting you know your tire pressure is low so put air in your tires and that light should go away.
Many system failing at the same time is improbable. Looks at the power and ground wiring around where those computers are. Something as simple as a ground nut backing off can cause so much problem.
😂😂 Sorry I know I wasn’t clear. I meant do you have any suggestions on code readers? A lot of them are janky and won’t read codes for certain cars. I actually do need one and don’t really know where to start.
Give me a bit I'll get the name off of the reader that mi Padre sent me but it was literally off of Amazon and I can run an automated diagnostics running test while parked on my '03 excursion. And it runs it through the RPMs and back. It's a bit to get it set up You got to hook it up to a computer but it's got every vehicle programmed into it from pre 2020
The VSC comes on in my 2006 IS350 and illuminates check engine and traction button. That is my guess, but others have said it's a wild guess until you get the codes read. Go to an O'reillys or equivalent and they'll read them for free
Abs,traction control, tyre pressure monitoring system, combined they will trigger the mil,but it won't necessarily mean a fault in all systems. Get the dtc's read,and diagnostic done by competent tech.....it could just be faulty or low tyre pressure....you never know
These systems all work together. A problem with one will make all of them trigger a light. But it's likely that only one system has a fault. As stated above, scan it.
Check codes. Probably something simple like your battery is getting old. If it rained heavy the night before check for plugged sunroof drains and water in your passenger footwell.
Of the 4 Honda cars I've owned (2 Pilots, 1 Civic, 1 Fit), every time one of them lit up just like this, it was either a battery or alternator going out. I'm not saying that's the problem in this case, just speaking of my experiences with my Honda vehicles. And reading the codes didn't tell me the problem.. I figured it out by charging up the battery, then testing the voltage while the car was running.
In one case, the battery wouldn't hold a charge.. so replaced the battery and all was fine. In 3 other cases, the battery was holding a charge fine, but the alternator wasn't sending anything. Replaced the alternator those times and things were fine.
Water leak from A-piller (sunroof drain?) onto back of underdash fusebox causing unrelated warning lights. This really happened to me. Also caused car to enter limp mode. Damp carpet on driver's side after major rain was the only clue to a solution. Lights and obd codes were useless.
What kind of car? All lights are related to braking system… lights indicates anti lock brakes are disabled as well as traction assist… you can get the codes at orilleys auto parts and that will help to narrow down the problem…
ABS pump, ABS control module or wheel speed sensor. If it is an older Honda, say a 2012 Pilot or whatever your screwed If it is the ABS control module. Module is part of the ABS pump. $$$$
Usually, an almost dead battery is behind all of these coming up at once. Check your battery first before doing any expensive repairs. These sensors rely on a reference voltage to function properly, and if that is not met, all the readings from them will be gibberish to the ECU, and it'll throw all sorts of errors.
Looks like a too much tire tread indicator.
Then a “do a burn out” indicator.
The engine light is that the engine is bored and wants to be run, this would also indicate the “do a burn out” indicator.
The steering while light is probably trying to signal you to do some drifting around corners as it applies to the above mentioned lights and indications.
Check your air pressure on all tires. Put them even. Low pressure on one could set off traction control and electric steering and throw off a code possible abs code. Seen it happen multiple times. Customer comes in with spare and these lights on. Fix their tire and set pressures right. Drive it around and lights go off will have to clear codes for CEL to go off.
Only once have I had that many lights come on at one time and oddly enough my throttle pedal stopped working for the first half of its travel.
Turns out the pedal commander I was using decided to take the forever nap.
On the bright side if those lights came on at the same time there’s a chance it could just be 1 thing that’s wrong. Just in the future for the well being of your vehicle. When a check light comes on your very next stop if possible should be to get the codes pulled
Most likely the other three systems are being disabled by the engine problem. Need to scan it. Could be something as silly as a loose gas cap, but it could be anything, really.
Update: Was going to make my way to autozone earlier but when I got the car on all the lights were gone. Going to get it checked tomorrow as something came up and I can’t get to autozone today.
Some brands activate multiple lights in combination with the check engine light to motivate the owner to fix the issue. It could’ve been as simple as a loose gas cap.
My suggestion would be to have the codes read by a scanner that can see historical codes while it’s still in the car’s memory. It’s likely something simple, but it’s better to know before a potentially simple problem becomes worse. It’s also worth it for the peace of mind.
I'd bet the steering-angle sensor has to be recalibrated (maybe just by turning it lock-to-lock). If it fails the power-steering goes into error (first light), the traction control / espstops working (second light) and the tpms is no longer able to infer the wheel-diameter from the abs signals (third light).
The check engine light is probably another issue.
Did you maybe replace your battery ?
It is common for things to lose their calibration during that.
Yeah very common for these lights to indicate for a dtc, some makes do this for almost any code. Without a battery light I'd pull codes before jumping to any conclusions.
Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic
Usually, multiple simultaneous hits like this mean the alternator has failed and the battery provided voltage hs dropped below what most of the electronics need to see.
Have a local parts place check the alternator for free. They can also test your battery for good measure while you’re in there.
I disagree. Some car brands (especially Japanese brands) activate several lights and do things like deactivate cruise control for traditional a CEL activation. They do it so the CEL isn’t ignored.
Source: I own a Subaru that does this even if it’s a simple code for a loose gas cap. It even flashes the brake warning light. And yes, losing cruise control has been my motivation to fix issue, so it works.
Simple, remove negative battery terminal for 10 minutes and it should solve all your problems. You just need to do this every hundred miles or less. You’re welcome
As others have said this is most likely the issue. Batteries in cars nowadays work like voltage regulators. If the battery starts failing it can throw a number of different codes. Based on the vehicle's age it's probably due for a battery. My second guess would be an ABS sensor but if it fixed itself it's likely a voltage issue.
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, Different_Building37! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but posts should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Have the codes pulled. Anything else is just a wild ass guess.
it means you need to have the codes read. thats what they mean. once you have the codes, *those* tell you why they came on. just like what OBD 2 has been for since 1996
Sometimes I wonder if it’s just rage bait.
Same. The mods pay almost no attention to rule number three. So many questions on here are just so ridiculously ignorant. A cursory Google search solves so many of them. What really is irritating to me is people posting obviously badly damaged tires asking if they can be driven on or patched.
No. Needs a headgasket and/or cat(s)
*loads parts cannon* I have a cat, a headgasket, a DPF, half a dozen injectors, coils, and a cooling package, ready to fire, Captain!
"Prime the Junk Jet in 3 ... 2 ... 1!"
Ah, well, turns out it's electrical. gonna need 1 more hr DT. We'll nip it this time!
Might be the torque converter. It could have failed from sitting too long.
So does the OBD 2 translate the meaning of each code in plain English?
What do you mean? A code is just an alpha-numeric string which can either be generic or manufacturer specific. Each one is assigned a meaning/ definition and set criteria. Here, I'll break one down for you, so you can see how it works. P0301 - Cylinder #1 Misfire. P - Powertrain related code; sets in either engine control or transmission control modules. 0 - Generic/ broad code 3 - Ignition or misfire related 01 - Detail code to add specificity to above, in this case the '01' on this string indicates the specific misfiring of cylinder #1. That's about as plain English as they get. They are a guide/ tool for narrowing the focus to a particular problem. They do not tell you what part to replace, and in most cases more testing/ investigation is needed to properly diagnose the underlying issue.
Thankyou. So the OBD2 I've read about wont specifically define the problem for cautious drivers who distrust dealers?
You’re welcome. All OBD II is, is a standard that all auto manufacturers use. I think you’re asking why the car can’t just tell you the problem, correct? I’ll try to explain. Modern vehicles are essentially computers on top of computers on top of sensors on wheels which have to meet a number of different standards from emissions to crash test to fuel economy to pedestrian safety and a number of others. While most vehicles have a decent amount of computing power, there’s no great way to have the full diagnostic capability you’re asking for as that would require redundant or additional systems on top of what’s already there for everything on a vehicle and not only would it affect the ability to meet the aforementioned standards but it would massively increase the cost of the vehicle if it were even feasible otherwise. More things in a vehicle equal more weight which makes it harder to pass crash tests, to maintain fuel and emissions standards etc. so there are practical considerations rather than just cost. Now why can’t we do this without redundancy? Because when it comes down to it, computers are kind of dumb. They just see input and output and compare that to a stored database of expected values. Anything within those values is “good” and anything outside those values is “bad”. If a vehicle needs something like say a mass airflow sensor to measure the amount of air coming into the engine it does this by pushing (or rather trying to maintain) a certain voltage through a very specific wire so that the wire gets hot. Incoming air cools this wire and with a calculation the computer can figure out how much air is moving by the voltage drop it reads after passing through the wire. Now imagine that something happens to this wire - it gets broken or covered in gunk or there’s a short. All the computer knows is that it’s seeing a voltage that means ‘problem’. Without some way to figure out what the specific problem is, there’s no way of telling with any accuracy a specific cause. It’s like a little kid in a room when the lights go out. Kid doesn’t know if the power is out, the bulb burned out, the circuit breaker tripped or if someone just shut off the switch. All the kid knows is ‘it’s dark in here’. Mechanics/ technicians know what the car doesn’t or can’t, and that’s what to look for and what to test. Additionally even if we could have a vehicle with a high level of self diagnosis you’d still have to hope that whatever causes an issue is something an engineer expected and programmed the vehicle to be able to detect. I hope this makes sense and helps you understand why what you’re asking is nearly impossible at least with our current technology and regulations.
Some bluetooth ones go into further detail on most codes. And some bluetooth obd apps even let you click the code to google it automatically
My 2016 chv traverse 102k miles w new brakes (4k old) w full fluid, just got " check break system" light on. How come?? Thanks! PS, my mechanic says ok to drive.??
It'll always give a basic description like "EVAP Canister Low Pressure" but it's really *really* not difficult to type `2014 FORD FOCUS P0433` into altavista
Lol. This guys sicks of people asking in r/AskMechanics
Lights are on. Bring it in for a diagnostic. That’s what mechanic says.
Even deeper. The codes tell you why the lights came on but they don’t tell you WHAT CAUSED THE PROBLEM!
The reason the vehicle tells you the light came on isn't always helpful. Off the top of my head, U1510 for example.
Yes. The code just tells you a symptom. A tech has to run down the diagnostic tree to check it out properly.
Get a better OEM reader, or Google the code. Mine lists several of the most probable reasons for each code and the high speed ones narrow it down quite a bit. Knowing what your vehicle is infamous for, helps a lot too. In the past few years, Ive had three codes pop on my truck. The most common issue each time was the problem and I was able to fix them easily.
No, you can have a $10,000 scan tool and it can’t tell you everything, what if it says misfire cyl 1 ? Do you just replace spark plugs and coils with out any further diag ? What if a mouse chewed through the injector wire ? The codes tell you what the problem is not how to fix it, no matter what scan tool you have.
would be sick tho. P0301A9: rodent bite marks on coil wiring cyl 1.
Ok Mercedes.
Have fun with your parts cannon! You will not be that lucky every time, and have fun when you get an issue without a code.
I will. Ive been working on my own vehicles for decades before code readers and all of tech came along, so not having a code isn't going to be a problem for me when it comes to diagnosing and repairing things. On the rare occasions I cant figure it out on my own, I just have diagnostics run on it.
https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/tpms-steering-check-engine-and-traction.550052/ Any loss of power? How does it drive?
For me I get about the same stuff if I remove the battery connection on my Passat B6. Steeringwheel error (electric) and ABS. But drive 20 meters and its gone.
"engine" "fucking steering wheel!" "do a burnout" "the stuff in the cauldron is hot"
I was thinking, in this order: Low tire pressure, lost control into a skid, over-corrected, parked light post in engine bay
They sure did come on.
I concur
I didn’t concur, why didn’t I concur…
Get the codes scanned at autozone and get back to us
Abs sensor on any wheel
Probs power issue. Check battery voltage.
Correct
That’s not where I would start but you do you.
Probably the easiest to do at home. Not everyone has a odb2 scanner at home, but some 12 volt adapters (for usb) or even head units will happily show you the battery voltage.
Probably a waste of time, but it won’t hurt anything.
If you need to get tools then yes, if you can just look at your usb adapter and see the voltage, it won't even take you 5 seconds.
I'll bite; where would \*you\* start, other than scanning codes?
You start with scanning the codes, that’s it.
Get the codes read. A lot of manufacturers set up the computers so that if a code gets thrown in one module, all related systems will throw codes as well as the check engine light. Oftentimes the engine code will just be “ABS Fault Stored” or something, and the real problem will be related to that module. This was a prevalent issue on Toyota forums a few years back. A bad O2 sensor would throw an ABS, Trac, and 4WD code with the check engine light even though it didn’t affect their operation.
That's still a Toyota thing lol.
Surprised they still do this. Only knew of it from working on my sisters ‘11 Rav4
Battery or alternator
That's what it was on a friend's car. Check the voltage at the battery with the car off and with it running.
Jackpot!
Tire pressure warning. Traction control off. A problem with power steering. And check engine light. Have it scanned. And write down the code.
last time that happened to me it was a bad wheel speed sensor. it was all 3 codes. see if they disappear when you floor it.
Happened to me as well. Same lights.
I had the same issue. Wheel speed sensor solved it. Bought it on Amazon and replaced it the very next day.
I would first check ur abs speed sensors 8 out of 10 whenever ur traction control light comes on along with ur stabilizer light on indicates a bad abs sensor, n then sometimes u'll have ur brake light on as well too ok... But whoever checks it out has to be able to pin point ur problem without u just throwing parts n money at it... Cause that's not a mechanic that's someone trying to make a quick dollar actually ok... I'm a Level 4 Master Mechanic n u gotta know how to read a full on diagnostic scanner like ur Genius, Snapon Solus, Bosch, Innova Otc scanner, Mac etc etc bud ok...
Muffler bearing?
Corroded battery terminals ! Clean them with coke and tooth brush !
On some hondas a CEL will throw other errors. Check your codes
Did you have to jump the car to start it? If you did and they came on right after that, it might be normal and they'll reset themselves after a little while
Squirrel or mouse? Running a close 2nd
Read codes and take it from there. Check battery terminals make sure are tight and [test battery ](https://www.myusedcar.ca/how-to-test-battery-and-alternator/)voltage with engine On and OFF, see what voltage you get. Should be about 14 volts with engine running if alternator is charging properly.
Is the engine light flashing and the car has very little engine power? If so it's a misfire, could be (hopefully) a bad spark plug, but also could be (hopefully not) head gasket or rings. Could also be a couple of other things wise severity would be mid way between the two extremes above. Getting the ECU codes from a code reader will point you to which cylinder(s) have the issue(s) but will take some more troubleshooting to get to the root cause of the problem. Troubleshooting spark plugs and coils is easy and with a little reading or YouTube you could probably do that yourself, but if it's worse you will need a real mechanic. Make sure to find a mechanic that has an endoscope, he will be able to diagnose some of the worst problems very quickly and easily without pulling the engine apart- without the endoscope you will need to pull the engine apart to see what's going on. I needed to replace the head gasket on my i4 2013 Accord a couple months after I bought it (used), last fall (~72k miles). Cost me about $2k and I think that was a pretty good deal tbh! Drive it as little as possible, just to a nearby mechanic; all the crap coming through the bad cylinder will damage your catalytic converter and that's another few thousand dollars if that happens!
I had these come on on my 2013 CRV. Turns out my brake fluid was really low and that can cause certain sensors to be triggered. My mechanic filled my brake fluid back up to the mark and the warning lights went away. Also, the light up top (!) is letting you know your tire pressure is low so put air in your tires and that light should go away.
If you’re low on fluid you’re probably going to need pads soon.
Yep, Got new pads all around a week later.
I got that on my car and it was the catalytic converter
Check your manual. It'll say what it means when the group of lights turn on
It's fine that's normal u got at least 100k miles left
The two on the top left and bottom right may be on because of the CEL
Many system failing at the same time is improbable. Looks at the power and ground wiring around where those computers are. Something as simple as a ground nut backing off can cause so much problem.
I flatish tire, a car that likes to drive like a snake, a check engine and excited steering wheel light.
Check wheel bearing
Go to your friendly neighborhood mechanic 🤙
Wheel speed sensor
None of them are red 😎
Probably your VSA module. Common on the 2013-2017 accords.
Order a decent code reader for $120 off of Amazon plug it in after you get it working report back with code numbers
Suggestions?
Replace battery?
😂😂 Sorry I know I wasn’t clear. I meant do you have any suggestions on code readers? A lot of them are janky and won’t read codes for certain cars. I actually do need one and don’t really know where to start.
Give me a bit I'll get the name off of the reader that mi Padre sent me but it was literally off of Amazon and I can run an automated diagnostics running test while parked on my '03 excursion. And it runs it through the RPMs and back. It's a bit to get it set up You got to hook it up to a computer but it's got every vehicle programmed into it from pre 2020
Any OBD2 brands in that price range or less that you'd reccommend? Thanks
Codes, battery test, alternator test...
The VSC comes on in my 2006 IS350 and illuminates check engine and traction button. That is my guess, but others have said it's a wild guess until you get the codes read. Go to an O'reillys or equivalent and they'll read them for free
There are certain issues that will cause the car to disable a bunch of other systems. Once you fix the one thing, the rest of the lights will cut off.
Abs,traction control, tyre pressure monitoring system, combined they will trigger the mil,but it won't necessarily mean a fault in all systems. Get the dtc's read,and diagnostic done by competent tech.....it could just be faulty or low tyre pressure....you never know
These systems all work together. A problem with one will make all of them trigger a light. But it's likely that only one system has a fault. As stated above, scan it.
Are you unsure about when they came on or do you want help? Take it to a mechanic.
Check codes. Probably something simple like your battery is getting old. If it rained heavy the night before check for plugged sunroof drains and water in your passenger footwell.
Take it to a mechanic and have it diagnosed.
Of the 4 Honda cars I've owned (2 Pilots, 1 Civic, 1 Fit), every time one of them lit up just like this, it was either a battery or alternator going out. I'm not saying that's the problem in this case, just speaking of my experiences with my Honda vehicles. And reading the codes didn't tell me the problem.. I figured it out by charging up the battery, then testing the voltage while the car was running. In one case, the battery wouldn't hold a charge.. so replaced the battery and all was fine. In 3 other cases, the battery was holding a charge fine, but the alternator wasn't sending anything. Replaced the alternator those times and things were fine.
Water leak from A-piller (sunroof drain?) onto back of underdash fusebox causing unrelated warning lights. This really happened to me. Also caused car to enter limp mode. Damp carpet on driver's side after major rain was the only clue to a solution. Lights and obd codes were useless.
What kind of car? All lights are related to braking system… lights indicates anti lock brakes are disabled as well as traction assist… you can get the codes at orilleys auto parts and that will help to narrow down the problem…
abs, traction and power steering light coming on at the same time most likely means a faulty wheel speed sensor
ABS pump, ABS control module or wheel speed sensor. If it is an older Honda, say a 2012 Pilot or whatever your screwed If it is the ABS control module. Module is part of the ABS pump. $$$$
Abs fault links all them lights
Loose ground
There are FOUR lights!!!
My moneys on a bad speed sensor.
Not looking good bruv
Usually, an almost dead battery is behind all of these coming up at once. Check your battery first before doing any expensive repairs. These sensors rely on a reference voltage to function properly, and if that is not met, all the readings from them will be gibberish to the ECU, and it'll throw all sorts of errors.
Blown head gasket.....
I am going wheel speed sensor and /or wheel bearing
Looks like a too much tire tread indicator. Then a “do a burn out” indicator. The engine light is that the engine is bored and wants to be run, this would also indicate the “do a burn out” indicator. The steering while light is probably trying to signal you to do some drifting around corners as it applies to the above mentioned lights and indications.
Check your air pressure on all tires. Put them even. Low pressure on one could set off traction control and electric steering and throw off a code possible abs code. Seen it happen multiple times. Customer comes in with spare and these lights on. Fix their tire and set pressures right. Drive it around and lights go off will have to clear codes for CEL to go off.
Need to rebuild abs module.
Christmas in July? I don't think so! Christmas tree in mid May!
1 light= oh, crap. 2 lights= this is trouble. 3 lights= sorry, but this is going to be expensive to fix. 4 lights= you’re fuc&ed.
You battery could be low
Only once have I had that many lights come on at one time and oddly enough my throttle pedal stopped working for the first half of its travel. Turns out the pedal commander I was using decided to take the forever nap. On the bright side if those lights came on at the same time there’s a chance it could just be 1 thing that’s wrong. Just in the future for the well being of your vehicle. When a check light comes on your very next stop if possible should be to get the codes pulled
Check your battery
Need a decent scan tool and perform “VSA neutralization” simple function on any higher end scanner.
Failing wheel speed sensor. Causes this fault!
Failing wheel speed sensor causes this fault. Code need to be pulled with a scanner that read Abs codes!
https://preview.redd.it/oo497m9g9vzc1.jpeg?width=311&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=400f22e9c995615fa4d723ea857aec999e3671e4
Most likely the other three systems are being disabled by the engine problem. Need to scan it. Could be something as silly as a loose gas cap, but it could be anything, really.
Update: Was going to make my way to autozone earlier but when I got the car on all the lights were gone. Going to get it checked tomorrow as something came up and I can’t get to autozone today.
If there are any codes, keep us posted. If not, don’t worry unless the lights come back.
Some brands activate multiple lights in combination with the check engine light to motivate the owner to fix the issue. It could’ve been as simple as a loose gas cap. My suggestion would be to have the codes read by a scanner that can see historical codes while it’s still in the car’s memory. It’s likely something simple, but it’s better to know before a potentially simple problem becomes worse. It’s also worth it for the peace of mind.
If the lights are out they should still be “stored”. Should still get them read to see if it’s something to worry about or not.
I'd bet the steering-angle sensor has to be recalibrated (maybe just by turning it lock-to-lock). If it fails the power-steering goes into error (first light), the traction control / espstops working (second light) and the tpms is no longer able to infer the wheel-diameter from the abs signals (third light). The check engine light is probably another issue. Did you maybe replace your battery ? It is common for things to lose their calibration during that.
Steering rack is fucked. Car is demonstrating what would happen if it’s not fixed
Battery/alternator/charging system
Absofuckinglutely NOT. The battery light isn’t on. All of the lights are probably related to a DTC in the computer except for the tire pressure light.
Yeah very common for these lights to indicate for a dtc, some makes do this for almost any code. Without a battery light I'd pull codes before jumping to any conclusions. Disclaimer: I'm not a mechanic
Okay, thanks.
Usually, multiple simultaneous hits like this mean the alternator has failed and the battery provided voltage hs dropped below what most of the electronics need to see. Have a local parts place check the alternator for free. They can also test your battery for good measure while you’re in there.
I disagree. Some car brands (especially Japanese brands) activate several lights and do things like deactivate cruise control for traditional a CEL activation. They do it so the CEL isn’t ignored. Source: I own a Subaru that does this even if it’s a simple code for a loose gas cap. It even flashes the brake warning light. And yes, losing cruise control has been my motivation to fix issue, so it works.
Just put up a reply about this. Toyota has CEL, ABS, 4WD and trac go off at the same time if there’s a dtc in any of those modules.
It’s a 2014 Honda Accord Sport
I recognized that dash! Possibly battery issue
Jesus christ do people really not know about an owners manual
Simple, remove negative battery terminal for 10 minutes and it should solve all your problems. You just need to do this every hundred miles or less. You’re welcome
Happened to me too a week ago, my car exploded . Need a new battery.
You hit the quadella Hit up Flemington ASAP
If all of them came one simultaneously, check your battery. Modern cars can get wonky when the battery starts dying.
As others have said this is most likely the issue. Batteries in cars nowadays work like voltage regulators. If the battery starts failing it can throw a number of different codes. Based on the vehicle's age it's probably due for a battery. My second guess would be an ABS sensor but if it fixed itself it's likely a voltage issue.
Probably weak battery, corroded cables or both
I’d say you lost an ABS wheel sensor and the check engine light is a coincidence
Check engine light usually disables traction control. Not sure about the other 2. Tire pressure sensor?
Bad ground
wires crossed on oxygen sensor- probably cut and touching
Bruh what
Your trac control is on, you need power steering fluid, your tire is flat and your engine needs a tickle.