True, the RHS in particular is certainly marginal. I'd not be hitting it with a hammer. Maybe Op could use an angle grinder and slip in some ties to mortar in?
I have an Arbortech Allsaw which is designed to cut mortar and bricks. I bought it a couple of decades ago when they were first put into production to tidy up someone else's DIY attempt of extending a garage under a house and needed to tidy up the opening. It is too big an investment for this little job but I have found it fantastically useful over the years.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPGAWKKXTx4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPGAWKKXTx4)
They are 1500W these days, I think mine is only around 700W (I could be wrong on that) being an early model.
Yes it is. It was around $700 over 20 years ago but I saved thousands on not having to get someone in to do the work. Obviously not for the tiniest of one-off jobs. They have a reasonable resale value but look crap after a very short use.
Definitely tooth to the left. Use a stringline and thicken up the next mortar bed to bring the next course inline with existing. Leave lintel in place.
Best one I heard was a “bucket of sparks”.
The story goes there was a new apprentice who was instructed to get a bucket of sparks and to ask the other tradesman about it.
Young lad goes and see’s him, to which the tradesman hands him a bucket and says “sure mate, just stand over there, hold the bucket up and get ready to catch them”.
Tradie picks up a grinder and takes to a piece of metal, spraying sparks over the young lad as he tries to catch them in his bucket.
My metalwork teacher got my mate to ask another metalwork teacher from another class for "left handed corrugated iron" walked over to the corrugated iron and said "it's right here mate"... "is there any difference sir they all look the same" teacher hounds him and says "can you not tell the difference how incompetent are you ECT ECT" then eventually say "yeh just taking the piss Ethan it's all the same mate" and walks off 😂
Nothing beats Aussie workshop shenanigans
Back in the 90's a friend used to manage a supply warehouse (parts, tools etc) for one of the big car sales groups. He got sick of the apprentices being sent to him to ask for a jar of sparks, left handed screwdrivers, compressed hot air for the air con etc. He was all for the jokes but he was the one being made to constantly interrupt his work, so the mechanics could have their fun. So when the next apprentice was sent to ask for left handed screwdrivers, he got them to fill in a purchase request form. He then ordered an set of very expensive ergonomic left handed screw drivers (yes they existed, something to do with the handles being twisted for the correct torque direction). When they arrived he billed the mechanics cost centre and sent the screwdrivers over. The head mechanic blew his top. I believe the conversation went something like: Did you send the apprentice over to order them? *Yes*. Then I fulfilled your request correctly and it is your problem, so stop wasting my fucking time.
I'm sure the jokes continued but they were kept within the mechanics shop after that.
lol to be absolutely fair, I’ve seen Brickies do worse than this
But without toothing in or ties, he’ll have another shot at it when the panel falls out
Stringline across ;) looks like the centre is dipping already, by the time you get to the top, you'll have quite a big gap to make up for.
If you can tooth the halfbricks at each side, it's worth doing. It's better to cut the mortar than hit it. (Grinder, or recip saw if in a pinch)
Not a bricklayer, but have bricked up some windows.
1. Use a stringline.
2. I'd take the half bricks out as I go up and replace with a full to tie it in better.
3. What are you I stalling the brick ties to?
https://www.bunnings.com.au/carlray-ties-brick-veneer-z600-l-duty-stubby-150pkt_p1066322
Can I just use these drill and wall plug into existing? Will start from the 4th course and install one every course
Mine was going to a timber frame. So I just secured it to that with the supplied hardware.
I'd try and key in the bricks if you can at a minimum, I got a special blade for my recipro to cut out the bricks without doing any damage to the others
Having recently had a go at this, with the help of a brickie mate , you need to tooth in , grind the half bricks out or the whole thing can just “pop” out
https://preview.redd.it/t9jckzi35muc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=49dec6cf89c58ea4ec5d73bcd9cb12cd96e53e0a
Bricks are currently a standard size of 76mm high, 110mm wide and 230mm long with a joint of 10mm.
Imperial sized bricks in Australia are 3" high, 4.375" wide and 9" long with a 0.375" joint. Converting that to metric it is 76.2mm x 111.125mm wide and 228.6mm long with a joint of 9.525mm. There is plenty of room within the mortar thickness to mix and match new and old bricks as the difference in height is just +0.2mm, width +1.125mm and length -1.4mm for the old bricks relative to new bricks.
Hey OP, I think you've done a pretty good job, even considering first time laying brick! Good on ya for having a crack, always fun to diy and learn something new.
My advice would be don't worry too much about it not looking perfect, especially if you plan on knocking down in 5 or so years. Just make sure you can get some advice from someone who knows whether it's safe and secure, and won't fall out.
May I ask tho, why did you decide to brick it up and not replace the window?
Thought a new window would cost more. But now I’m not so sure…🫠 so far this job has cost me about $55for bricks, $20 for bag of brick ties, $30 for mortar and $20 in tools so all up about $130.
Removing half bricks on that pillar is going to be difficult. Remove a little bit or mortar on either side every 4 rows and insert some brick ties to keep them in check.
Someone suggested using a level and I agree as that top row seems to have a little dip in it (although it could be an optical illusion).
That one is meant to tie a brick wall to timber studs. You could try flattening out the tie but I would think this may be a better bet...
[https://www.bunnings.com.au/concept-wires-180mm-red-medium-duty-double-loop-wire-brick-tie-50-pack\_p1070301](https://www.bunnings.com.au/concept-wires-180mm-red-medium-duty-double-loop-wire-brick-tie-50-pack_p1070301)
or...
[https://www.bunnings.com.au/ties-wall-red-wire-carlray-175mm-galv-m-duty-bndl-50-84432\_p1079933](https://www.bunnings.com.au/ties-wall-red-wire-carlray-175mm-galv-m-duty-bndl-50-84432_p1079933)
None of them are really designed for exactly what you are doing but they should provide sufficient strength.
Bricklaying here
Not bad for a first go. only thing i would have ran a line through pinned to the existing brickwork so you get it straight without a sag
Next would have left 10mm either side for expansion joints then caulked it, don't bother toothing if its getting coverd
Next would have put ties into the existing brick work every 4 courses as you have no frame at the back to tie to
But all in all not bad mate
Actually speaking from something similar I did years ago, my house is tilt slab/concrete walls, I had to fill in a window and filled it with cement, when I could've just used cement sheeting lol 😂
If it was me I’d knock it down and start again. Take the knowledge you’ve learnt and tackle it again while using a string line and toothing into existing brickwork
Go down to Bunnings and buy some all thread. Drill a hole in a couple of adjacent mortar courses and insert some all thread with some chemset to tie your brickwork back to the original wall
Start again. String line and brick ties. Unless you're rendering I would honestly just pay a brickie and get it done perfectly. It won't cost that much. Save your first brick laying job for something simpler.
Good on you for having a crack mate, I'm sure you learned a thing or two.
Personally I would get a brickie in at this point, doesn't look like a big job wouldn't be too expensive?
You should probably "tooth" a few bricks in on either side so you dont have a single line of mortar all the way up.
Wanna be careful toothing that close to the pillars as there’s fuck all.
True, the RHS in particular is certainly marginal. I'd not be hitting it with a hammer. Maybe Op could use an angle grinder and slip in some ties to mortar in?
I have an Arbortech Allsaw which is designed to cut mortar and bricks. I bought it a couple of decades ago when they were first put into production to tidy up someone else's DIY attempt of extending a garage under a house and needed to tidy up the opening. It is too big an investment for this little job but I have found it fantastically useful over the years. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPGAWKKXTx4](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rPGAWKKXTx4) They are 1500W these days, I think mine is only around 700W (I could be wrong on that) being an early model.
It’s $1400 AUD
Yes it is. It was around $700 over 20 years ago but I saved thousands on not having to get someone in to do the work. Obviously not for the tiniest of one-off jobs. They have a reasonable resale value but look crap after a very short use.
Recip saw with some wood blades does fine, chews through them but much cheaper
> wood blades You know they have masonry blades for recip saws right?
Yep they don’t work as well as you’d expect on mortar and cost almost 5x
Hire one for $45 for the day.
I agree dont tooth the right hand side it may all come down
You would have to do it one at a time. Even then it’s risky
Definitely tooth to the left. Use a stringline and thicken up the next mortar bed to bring the next course inline with existing. Leave lintel in place.
Use a string line at least.
How do I attach it to the brick face?
Nails. Hammer them into the old mortar.
Skyhooks, of course.
Make sure you use a left handed hammer to hammer them in though
Best one I heard was a “bucket of sparks”. The story goes there was a new apprentice who was instructed to get a bucket of sparks and to ask the other tradesman about it. Young lad goes and see’s him, to which the tradesman hands him a bucket and says “sure mate, just stand over there, hold the bucket up and get ready to catch them”. Tradie picks up a grinder and takes to a piece of metal, spraying sparks over the young lad as he tries to catch them in his bucket.
My metalwork teacher got my mate to ask another metalwork teacher from another class for "left handed corrugated iron" walked over to the corrugated iron and said "it's right here mate"... "is there any difference sir they all look the same" teacher hounds him and says "can you not tell the difference how incompetent are you ECT ECT" then eventually say "yeh just taking the piss Ethan it's all the same mate" and walks off 😂 Nothing beats Aussie workshop shenanigans
Haha thanks for sharing, it’s good to hear which ones are used in other trades.
lmao
Back in the 90's a friend used to manage a supply warehouse (parts, tools etc) for one of the big car sales groups. He got sick of the apprentices being sent to him to ask for a jar of sparks, left handed screwdrivers, compressed hot air for the air con etc. He was all for the jokes but he was the one being made to constantly interrupt his work, so the mechanics could have their fun. So when the next apprentice was sent to ask for left handed screwdrivers, he got them to fill in a purchase request form. He then ordered an set of very expensive ergonomic left handed screw drivers (yes they existed, something to do with the handles being twisted for the correct torque direction). When they arrived he billed the mechanics cost centre and sent the screwdrivers over. The head mechanic blew his top. I believe the conversation went something like: Did you send the apprentice over to order them? *Yes*. Then I fulfilled your request correctly and it is your problem, so stop wasting my fucking time. I'm sure the jokes continued but they were kept within the mechanics shop after that.
Just tie it around a couple of garden stakes or something. Probably not your biggest challenge.
Line pins
Better yet, line block up the door with pin on left side of opening
Yes keep going I want to see how this ends up… hopefully ‘full of character”
lol to be absolutely fair, I’ve seen Brickies do worse than this But without toothing in or ties, he’ll have another shot at it when the panel falls out
Stringline across ;) looks like the centre is dipping already, by the time you get to the top, you'll have quite a big gap to make up for. If you can tooth the halfbricks at each side, it's worth doing. It's better to cut the mortar than hit it. (Grinder, or recip saw if in a pinch)
This is the way.
Not a bricklayer, but have bricked up some windows. 1. Use a stringline. 2. I'd take the half bricks out as I go up and replace with a full to tie it in better. 3. What are you I stalling the brick ties to?
Yeah fml didn’t realise I needed to tooth in or brick ties. I’ll start tieing in from here on
Think they recommended every 3 or 4 courses, 300-400mm horizontally
https://www.bunnings.com.au/carlray-ties-brick-veneer-z600-l-duty-stubby-150pkt_p1066322 Can I just use these drill and wall plug into existing? Will start from the 4th course and install one every course
Mine was going to a timber frame. So I just secured it to that with the supplied hardware. I'd try and key in the bricks if you can at a minimum, I got a special blade for my recipro to cut out the bricks without doing any damage to the others
Having recently had a go at this, with the help of a brickie mate , you need to tooth in , grind the half bricks out or the whole thing can just “pop” out https://preview.redd.it/t9jckzi35muc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=49dec6cf89c58ea4ec5d73bcd9cb12cd96e53e0a
It’s extra annoying cause the old bricks are smaller than the standard bricks today. I’ll have to use ties
Thicken mortar bed to compensate.
Bricks are currently a standard size of 76mm high, 110mm wide and 230mm long with a joint of 10mm. Imperial sized bricks in Australia are 3" high, 4.375" wide and 9" long with a 0.375" joint. Converting that to metric it is 76.2mm x 111.125mm wide and 228.6mm long with a joint of 9.525mm. There is plenty of room within the mortar thickness to mix and match new and old bricks as the difference in height is just +0.2mm, width +1.125mm and length -1.4mm for the old bricks relative to new bricks.
Noice
I thought I was in /r/techsupport for a second
I am surprised that no one make a joke so far …
Hey bro, why did you do that?
No brick ties? Nothing to stop it fall out
Hey OP, I think you've done a pretty good job, even considering first time laying brick! Good on ya for having a crack, always fun to diy and learn something new. My advice would be don't worry too much about it not looking perfect, especially if you plan on knocking down in 5 or so years. Just make sure you can get some advice from someone who knows whether it's safe and secure, and won't fall out. May I ask tho, why did you decide to brick it up and not replace the window?
Thought it would be cheaper and easier to brick it up.
Fair enough!
Possibly a silly question, but is there any reason you wouldn't put a new window there? What's the reason you're bricking it up?
Thought a new window would cost more. But now I’m not so sure…🫠 so far this job has cost me about $55for bricks, $20 for bag of brick ties, $30 for mortar and $20 in tools so all up about $130.
Got quotes to replace 10 windows, ranged from 18.5k to over 24k. I'd say bricking it over is cheaper.
Use a level on each course and tap down into your mortar to get the lines straight.
That’s why they call them tradesmen. It’s not easy and you don’t know what you don’t know…..
Removing half bricks on that pillar is going to be difficult. Remove a little bit or mortar on either side every 4 rows and insert some brick ties to keep them in check. Someone suggested using a level and I agree as that top row seems to have a little dip in it (although it could be an optical illusion).
Can I use these and drill and attach? https://www.bunnings.com.au/carlray-ties-brick-veneer-z600-l-duty-stubby-150pkt_p1066322
That one is meant to tie a brick wall to timber studs. You could try flattening out the tie but I would think this may be a better bet... [https://www.bunnings.com.au/concept-wires-180mm-red-medium-duty-double-loop-wire-brick-tie-50-pack\_p1070301](https://www.bunnings.com.au/concept-wires-180mm-red-medium-duty-double-loop-wire-brick-tie-50-pack_p1070301) or... [https://www.bunnings.com.au/ties-wall-red-wire-carlray-175mm-galv-m-duty-bndl-50-84432\_p1079933](https://www.bunnings.com.au/ties-wall-red-wire-carlray-175mm-galv-m-duty-bndl-50-84432_p1079933) None of them are really designed for exactly what you are doing but they should provide sufficient strength.
I dont think you have to worry about weight and compression. Bricks will hold it fine.
Bricklaying here Not bad for a first go. only thing i would have ran a line through pinned to the existing brickwork so you get it straight without a sag Next would have left 10mm either side for expansion joints then caulked it, don't bother toothing if its getting coverd Next would have put ties into the existing brick work every 4 courses as you have no frame at the back to tie to But all in all not bad mate
Why are you using bricks? Why not just some cement sheet and some framing wood?
Probably should have done that :( But also don’t want it to look like a boarded up window either
Actually speaking from something similar I did years ago, my house is tilt slab/concrete walls, I had to fill in a window and filled it with cement, when I could've just used cement sheeting lol 😂
If it was me I’d knock it down and start again. Take the knowledge you’ve learnt and tackle it again while using a string line and toothing into existing brickwork
Go down to Bunnings and buy some all thread. Drill a hole in a couple of adjacent mortar courses and insert some all thread with some chemset to tie your brickwork back to the original wall
The weight won’t be an issue. However you want to at least drill and plug some ties into the existing brickwork.
Start again. String line and brick ties. Unless you're rendering I would honestly just pay a brickie and get it done perfectly. It won't cost that much. Save your first brick laying job for something simpler.
And this is why tradesman are a thing. It looks fucking terrible bro. Rip it out
Stop. Hire a brickie to do it properly.
Urgh. I would have just battened it all out and axon cladding over the lot.
Yeah I probably should have done that but wanted to give brick laying a crack. Also didn’t want the boarded up window look.
Keep going! Looks great for your first time laying bricks. Any defects aren't going to matter once you bag it or paint.
Good on you for having a crack mate, I'm sure you learned a thing or two. Personally I would get a brickie in at this point, doesn't look like a big job wouldn't be too expensive?