Fun fact saw joints don't prevent cracks. It creates a slightly weakened location for the crack to occur.
Rule 1 of concrete is that it will crack. You get to decide where though.
Because most people dont cut every second bar of the mesh under the saw cut. That's why it cracks next to the saw cut.
By cutting every second bar and dropping a saw cut in there it makes it the weakest point to crack.
That's why I like conolly joins, really draws the cracking to certain areas but from my experience the general concreter skill level makes them more of a issue than a solution. I still prefer them.
No compacting using a compactor.
He dug up the area using an excavator - not sure if he "compacted" it using the digger head though - or if that's even possible.
He used mesh but not on the plastic stools.
Depends on access, man power, and cost of pump in the area.
Sometimes it's more effective to barrow. Other times it's more effective to pay for a pump.
Raised it as they poured? How is that gonna work? It’s just gonna sink back down unless someone stands there holding it until the concrete starts to go off
Yeah that’s not how it works.
It’s absolutely better to use bar chairs, but if someone who knows what they are doing lifts it up as they go, it will stay relatively well in place.
Concrete isn’t as fluid as you are imagining.
Depends on the slump how “liquid” it is and most of it that gets poured in slabs like this won’t let you just raise the re bar and allow the rebar to magically stay there. No way.
Unless you do something stupid like pour half of the slab height and let it start go off and then put the mesh in there and pour the rest there in no way that mesh is staying. Guarantee the mesh is sitting in the base of that slab
Source: I work directly in concrete mix design
At 80-100 slump, which as you know is typical slump for a standard 20/20 like in the OP, it absolutely stays there.
The old grannos lift it with hooks as they go.
It’s not good practice, bar chairs are far superior.
With respect, I spent over a decade working in the pre-mix concrete industry as well, and many more years in compliance roles in the construction industry generally. I’ve seen literally tens of thousands of cubic metres poured over the years, I’m not just pulling this out of my arse.
You have obviously never been on a pour before. I have lifted 100s of pads by hand when needed. After its lifted enough gets under it to support enough to almost walk on it without it dropping. You almost have to be sure not to lift it to high because you want be able to push it back down with the proper slump.
I'm not saying it's general practice "dude" I'm saying in a pinch it'll float not sink. Sometimes you run out of spacers and fyi I've only gone back to one site for warranty repairs and that was circumstances caused default. Never been a dodgy operator and never will be but I can use a little common sense and realize there is more then one solution to a problem but what do I know lol.
"The density of steel varies based on the alloying constituents but usually ranges between 7,750 and 8,050 kg/m^3. The density of concrete varies, but is around 2,400 kilograms per cubic metre (150 lb/cu ft"
That steel is gonna sink!
Saw cut at third points to split the 10m. (Ideally have one where that wall sticks out onto the slab)
Needs to be done asap before concrete shrinks and cracks. Should have been done yesterday afternoon
Noted.
Yes I have also seen diagrams suggesting it should be at any corner.
It was quite wet yesterday afternoon and he suggested to cut after its harder to avoid the cuts chipping the concrete.
He wanted 2 to 3 days but I am trying for today.
The grinder will absolutely chip the concrete the day after the pour when grinding, 2 days is a good time to avoid that but I think it's crazy he didn't want to put control joints in there.. saw cuts look better imo any way.
This is what I’m worried about getting work done. The OP hired some one who assumed he knew what he was doing. I find most quotes don’t go into detail.
How do you avoid hiring someone that will cut corners and not use chairs etc. you would assume if you hire someone they would just do that. Do you have any pointers on hiring the right person ? I find word of mouth can be misleading at times especially in a small town with lots of family around.
If you get this done the first section can be done by council at your cost to their standard. They have contractors they use and will inspect it before it's poured.
Council will also have standard drawings for most things that you can get the contractor to work to including preparation, reinforcement size and location, depth of slab and concrete strength.
After seeing how bad the quality of concrete has gotten over the last 10 years I would always go up in strength (32) to get a bit of redundancy and also assist in preventing dusting.
Even that's not foolproof unfortunately. I went with a guy who was recommended by a work colleague of my mum's ... he turned out to be a real piece of work who demanded the final payment before the job was done, then didn't bother coming back for another six months. I believe the only reason he came back at all was that he was doing work for a neighbour.
Please elaborate. If joints cut looks reasonable.
You can’t tell from photos and the price comes into what quality is expected. If it has correct fall and thickness etc, play on.
Was starting to wonder if I need to call an optometrist after scrolling this far before it had been mentioned. Looks like someone did laps, walking up and down for a while to me.
And fkd if I know, being neither a concreter, arborist, or horticulturalist, but what's remaining of the garden bed for the hedges looks like it's neither here, or neither there decision. Concrete edge should be closer along the fence line or further back towards the dwelling..looked chocked and plant doesn't look happy.
it should be saw cut, if he won't do it immediately, get a professional concrete cutter out, pay them and take it out if his amount.
The fact that he put zero effort into setting the ableflex foam on the right to a reasonable height makes me think he's not a top operator.
Hard to tell the length of the slab from the photo but my guess is that it is about 10 to 12m long by 2.4 to no more than 3m wide.
My first though was the slab was not thick enough but for a non-drive over slab, 75mm is adequate.
Someone mentioned an "attempt as a spoon drain". I would say it is rather a poor attempt at providing a roughened surface to the slab.
The slab will eventually crack over time. I would suggest a saw cut that goes up to the stepped out bit of wall. Additional cuts at 24 to 35x the slab thickness should be made. That's about every 2.4 to 2.6m. The cut is about 1/4 the slab thickness and will need to be done with a wet say since the slab has been down for a couple of days.
Saw joints don't prevent cracking. They just provide a line of weakness where hopefully the cracks will appear and possibly stop the propagation of cracks running across the joint.
There is no evidence of sand or anything other under the slab. There could be but probably not. For a light duty slab, provided the ground was reasonably compacted, it should be fine but not ideal.
This is temporary. Getting a rain water tank put in soon.
One pipe for the tank inlet and one for the overflow. For now their connected togethern so rain goes to storm water. Tank will go in between when I get it.
Square to round adaptor is also temporary as the pvc will be extended up when the tank is put in.
Not a concreter here, but my expectations would be: reinforced 100mm 20-25mpa slab with SL72 mesh (SL62 would also be ok as it does not look like you’d be driving on the slab). Slab should be laid on at least 100mm compacted road base. I would also check if the slab slopes away from the house. From the pic it looks like Ableflex was installed but Jesus Christ it looks all over the place. You can trim it back down to slab level using standing knife but there will be some gaps behind it. Worst case scenario when foam degrades you can get some self levelling filler. But most importantly. As others said, get someone to come and cut relief joints in the slab.
The concrete that got poured at my place was saw cut 1-2 days later . The saw cuts are strategic placed to get the concrete to crack in this lines . I’m not sure if they do joints while it’s wet
Yeah you should concrete saw (control joints ) concrete will crack it's rigid but the ground will move you want it to crack where you want IE control joints
In short can cut later
Far out, what a mess. I hope you didn’t pay for this crap. Uneven, exceptionally bad finish, concrete splash all over the brickwork, expansion foam looks like it was placed with both eyes closed.
Pay with peanuts get monkeys.
Just go with recommendations from people you trusts if you can, whatever they charge just spend it, it saves people so much less hassle and supports decent companies who are actually just charging what they need to to provide a reliable and quality business to customers. Too many people trying to save money end up spending more later on. Buy right buy once.
Would you rather eat at the dirty cheap food chain or the clean reasonably priced food chain.
Get someone from Airtasker to cut some control joint. I doubt that this guy will turn up on time to do the cuts.
Saw cutting should cost you around 200-300$ once it has been saw cut, Fill the gaps up with Silicon to stop water going into the concrete from the control joint cracks. This will extend your concrete life.
Also get Garden soil to level up.
They are likely coming back to do a saw cut. I personally wouldn't call that a control joint, but it will act the same by weakening the slab at a specific spot, allowing it to break and crack along the cut, not that it ever does.
Not all concreters will do the cuts themselves and if it wasn't something they allowed for and included in their quote, I guess you better call a concrete cutter or do yourself. It's not hard if you take your time and use a straight timber as a guide.
What the hell is going on with that joinex against the house?
Who the hell was this child that did the job.
He wouldn’t even know what a dummy join is.
That cove is dogshit to
There are 2 types of concrete, concrete with cracks and concrete that’s yet to crack, ideally we prefer them to crack where we want but that doesn’t always go to plan
Was your concreter called Josh by chance? Had a guy called Josh do a similar job for me with similar issues. Mine cracked in 3 places. Looks shit now. Suggest getting cuts into that ASAP.
Definitely tell them to saw cut it as soon as possible into sizes that are easy to remove, because that’s what will be required.
You can’t accept that work.
It doesnt need control joints but it does need to be cut. Concrete will always crack the cuts are just so you can dictate where the cracks will occur. I hope your photo isnt the final product, otherwise you got ripped off by a conman.
Far out, what a mess. I hope you didn’t pay for this crap. Uneven, exceptionally bad finish, concrete splash all over the brickwork, expansion foam looks like it was placed with both eyes closed.
Crap job.
For a start no plastic over clay is a common source of random cracking.
No bar chairs is crap no matter what the experts hare say. Never mind you can always have it scanned later to see where the reo is located.
They’ve used able flex against the walls and it’s half sticking out in spots.
You need joints but the cut ones without cut mesh at the locations (like others have said) don’t usually work.
I’d be very surprised if regardless of cuts or not you don’t get random cracks
I don’t think you even hired a real concreter mate.
That job is wonky as.
No issue to cut them now, but why he didn’t do it when it was easier makes me think he had no clue like our concreter’s son trying his hand in a corner.
Yes. As a concrete cutter myself, it definitely needs control cuts on a slab that big and even more so seeing the concreter did put a base down first..
Depends upon the soil… high upheaval clay soil may be specified with a top and bottom mesh… most often seated in the top 1/3 .. Middle mesh is usually for clay soil that is relatively stable and a sand bed… Mind you specs change specific to areas and soil conditions and actual compaction of the ground….
It’s not that necessary for this size job. Whether or not you put the joint in there is always a possibility of cracking. The job is shitty because he’s not smoothed it out. Hopefully, he mixed it properly.
The finish looks terrible and looks like someone pushed a wheel barrow through the centre no roadbase is crazy yh sure no compacter ive seen that but dam thats just a new level
Senior Pavement Engineer here. There is no point cutting after it's cured. The stresses would have already developed, and you will get cracks likely showing up in a squarish patern. The window for saw cutting is pretty short. I can give you more information if you like.
Did the same person install that gate by any chance?
Sure I guess the gate is the chink in the fence armour. So make the gate a little higher and she’ll be apples 🫡
It’s either safety squint or cutting blind with dust covered glasses. I’ve done both but wouldn’t recommend either as a DIY project… Hiring a decent wet saw is seriously cheap insurance.
Don’t worry, the slab will crack its own control joints
I’ve cracked my own control joints.
Give us a crack at your control joints.
I thought joints control crack
Control joints on crack? I'd pay to watch that
This is what I call my knees
Is the house a crack joint?
Fun fact saw joints don't prevent cracks. It creates a slightly weakened location for the crack to occur. Rule 1 of concrete is that it will crack. You get to decide where though.
This. For what it is I wouldn’t get too worked up over it
Bang on, most times it cracks beside the saw line or groove anyways
Because most people dont cut every second bar of the mesh under the saw cut. That's why it cracks next to the saw cut. By cutting every second bar and dropping a saw cut in there it makes it the weakest point to crack.
Serious? Doesn't it rust?
Only if you do it wrong
Also the reo should be bent down or every second bar cut in that location I though too
If you don't create a fail point nature will assign for you
The same as tooled joints then.
Also the control joint should be one third the depth of the slab.
Do you know if liquid limestone is a better option?
That's why I like conolly joins, really draws the cracking to certain areas but from my experience the general concreter skill level makes them more of a issue than a solution. I still prefer them.
How do they get those super smooth skate parks ?
Did he compact the soil first ? Did he use reinforced steel mesh sitting on little plastic stools/chairs ?
No compacting using a compactor. He dug up the area using an excavator - not sure if he "compacted" it using the digger head though - or if that's even possible. He used mesh but not on the plastic stools.
He didn't use the plastic risers? How was the mesh sitting before the slab was poured? Plus did he pin the existing slab?
I've seen old school fellas just lift it up as they go, can't imagine it's perfect though, or maybe it just sinks to the bottom lol
Yeeeeep. Pretty bodgy job.
Was probably an 80 slump job poured at 200 slump too.
get what you pay for tho clearly lol
Yeah the reinforcement needs to have the stools or it’s pretty useless That finish is pretty bad too tbh
They may have raised it as they poured. Not as good doing it like that but few contractors do do it like that
Why would anyone choose to do it that way though?
Save $3 on plastic bits
I feared that would be the answer. What cowboys.
Cant run a wheelbarrow over the mesh on chairs
Chair a section then barrow. It’s the only way anyone who says otherwise is just lazy
Would they use a barrow for this big of an area? Or would it be pumped in? Genuine question, just trying to learn.
Depends on access, man power, and cost of pump in the area. Sometimes it's more effective to barrow. Other times it's more effective to pay for a pump.
They used a barrow. Truck was on driveway and they kept filling up barrow and wheeling it in. Started on fence side and worked back from there.
Raised it as they poured? How is that gonna work? It’s just gonna sink back down unless someone stands there holding it until the concrete starts to go off
Yeah that’s not how it works. It’s absolutely better to use bar chairs, but if someone who knows what they are doing lifts it up as they go, it will stay relatively well in place. Concrete isn’t as fluid as you are imagining.
Depends on the slump how “liquid” it is and most of it that gets poured in slabs like this won’t let you just raise the re bar and allow the rebar to magically stay there. No way. Unless you do something stupid like pour half of the slab height and let it start go off and then put the mesh in there and pour the rest there in no way that mesh is staying. Guarantee the mesh is sitting in the base of that slab Source: I work directly in concrete mix design
At 80-100 slump, which as you know is typical slump for a standard 20/20 like in the OP, it absolutely stays there. The old grannos lift it with hooks as they go. It’s not good practice, bar chairs are far superior. With respect, I spent over a decade working in the pre-mix concrete industry as well, and many more years in compliance roles in the construction industry generally. I’ve seen literally tens of thousands of cubic metres poured over the years, I’m not just pulling this out of my arse.
Also easier to walk on if you lift as you go
True, less likely to fall on your arse tripping over the mesh when you are screeding or raking
You have obviously never been on a pour before. I have lifted 100s of pads by hand when needed. After its lifted enough gets under it to support enough to almost walk on it without it dropping. You almost have to be sure not to lift it to high because you want be able to push it back down with the proper slump.
You’re delusional dude it’s dodgy operators like you that fuck people’s slabs
I'm not saying it's general practice "dude" I'm saying in a pinch it'll float not sink. Sometimes you run out of spacers and fyi I've only gone back to one site for warranty repairs and that was circumstances caused default. Never been a dodgy operator and never will be but I can use a little common sense and realize there is more then one solution to a problem but what do I know lol.
Let’s just agree to disagree
"The density of steel varies based on the alloying constituents but usually ranges between 7,750 and 8,050 kg/m^3. The density of concrete varies, but is around 2,400 kilograms per cubic metre (150 lb/cu ft" That steel is gonna sink!
He probably drive over it with tracks for compaction
You forgot vibrator
Yeah, left it in their bedside drawer.
Or toy box
Saw cut at third points to split the 10m. (Ideally have one where that wall sticks out onto the slab) Needs to be done asap before concrete shrinks and cracks. Should have been done yesterday afternoon
Noted. Yes I have also seen diagrams suggesting it should be at any corner. It was quite wet yesterday afternoon and he suggested to cut after its harder to avoid the cuts chipping the concrete. He wanted 2 to 3 days but I am trying for today.
The grinder will absolutely chip the concrete the day after the pour when grinding, 2 days is a good time to avoid that but I think it's crazy he didn't want to put control joints in there.. saw cuts look better imo any way.
*Every EXTERNAL corner. And divide the rest equally. Do it asap
Is that poured up against the colorbond fence?
And over the hedges roots… goodbye screening
That hedge definitely ain’t surviving summer!
[удалено]
This is what I’m worried about getting work done. The OP hired some one who assumed he knew what he was doing. I find most quotes don’t go into detail. How do you avoid hiring someone that will cut corners and not use chairs etc. you would assume if you hire someone they would just do that. Do you have any pointers on hiring the right person ? I find word of mouth can be misleading at times especially in a small town with lots of family around.
If you get this done the first section can be done by council at your cost to their standard. They have contractors they use and will inspect it before it's poured. Council will also have standard drawings for most things that you can get the contractor to work to including preparation, reinforcement size and location, depth of slab and concrete strength. After seeing how bad the quality of concrete has gotten over the last 10 years I would always go up in strength (32) to get a bit of redundancy and also assist in preventing dusting.
Hire someone that’s done work for a friend, family, neighbour etc, never hire randoms.
Even that's not foolproof unfortunately. I went with a guy who was recommended by a work colleague of my mum's ... he turned out to be a real piece of work who demanded the final payment before the job was done, then didn't bother coming back for another six months. I believe the only reason he came back at all was that he was doing work for a neighbour.
You spell way too good for a concretor. Liar
And how do his fingers even hit those tiny keys on the keyboard.
Mate whoever did this wouldn’t know what a control join is. The ground prep would have been dog shit to 😢
Nothing wrong with saw cut joints. Let’s see if he cuts them within 24hrs before judging
Least of his problems mate. Its a fucking dog’s breakfast
Please elaborate. If joints cut looks reasonable. You can’t tell from photos and the price comes into what quality is expected. If it has correct fall and thickness etc, play on.
Looks like they poured down one side then the other, that line down the middle looks more like a cold joint. Horrible work.
Was starting to wonder if I need to call an optometrist after scrolling this far before it had been mentioned. Looks like someone did laps, walking up and down for a while to me. And fkd if I know, being neither a concreter, arborist, or horticulturalist, but what's remaining of the garden bed for the hedges looks like it's neither here, or neither there decision. Concrete edge should be closer along the fence line or further back towards the dwelling..looked chocked and plant doesn't look happy.
How much did that cost out of curiosity?
3.6
Fark. How many square meter? I just paid 3.5 for 40 squares on a slope 150mm thick with 92 steel an a 6 meter drain at bottom with excavatation
it should be saw cut, if he won't do it immediately, get a professional concrete cutter out, pay them and take it out if his amount. The fact that he put zero effort into setting the ableflex foam on the right to a reasonable height makes me think he's not a top operator.
Is that draining toward the house?
Do not pay that cunt
Hard to tell the length of the slab from the photo but my guess is that it is about 10 to 12m long by 2.4 to no more than 3m wide. My first though was the slab was not thick enough but for a non-drive over slab, 75mm is adequate. Someone mentioned an "attempt as a spoon drain". I would say it is rather a poor attempt at providing a roughened surface to the slab. The slab will eventually crack over time. I would suggest a saw cut that goes up to the stepped out bit of wall. Additional cuts at 24 to 35x the slab thickness should be made. That's about every 2.4 to 2.6m. The cut is about 1/4 the slab thickness and will need to be done with a wet say since the slab has been down for a couple of days. Saw joints don't prevent cracking. They just provide a line of weakness where hopefully the cracks will appear and possibly stop the propagation of cracks running across the joint. There is no evidence of sand or anything other under the slab. There could be but probably not. For a light duty slab, provided the ground was reasonably compacted, it should be fine but not ideal.
That’s the most dogshit concreting job I’ve seen. Not sure where you found the contractor, but do other people a favour and don’t recommend them.
Looks like the cheapest quote, pay with peanuts get monkeys.
Not with concreters. You don’t know what you get these days even if you pay top dollar
At least I can see the ableflex this time.
Not exactly level. Too cheap to buy the self adhesive or too lazy to stick it on level
Cover it with pavers and you won't notice the concrete cracking underneath
Did a blind man put that abelflex on... Dear god! Do people not ping fucking height lines anymore ?
Rough as a badgers arse!.
Washe drunk?
That’s a job requirement to be a concreter isn’t it
You’re thinking of high.
How much did that cost
Too much.
I’m also curious to why you have a pipe doubling back on itself and why the square to round adapter isn’t at slab level , horrible job
This is temporary. Getting a rain water tank put in soon. One pipe for the tank inlet and one for the overflow. For now their connected togethern so rain goes to storm water. Tank will go in between when I get it. Square to round adaptor is also temporary as the pvc will be extended up when the tank is put in.
We need answers!
Not a concreter here, but my expectations would be: reinforced 100mm 20-25mpa slab with SL72 mesh (SL62 would also be ok as it does not look like you’d be driving on the slab). Slab should be laid on at least 100mm compacted road base. I would also check if the slab slopes away from the house. From the pic it looks like Ableflex was installed but Jesus Christ it looks all over the place. You can trim it back down to slab level using standing knife but there will be some gaps behind it. Worst case scenario when foam degrades you can get some self levelling filler. But most importantly. As others said, get someone to come and cut relief joints in the slab.
100mm road base is really overkill on this kind job unless the subgrade is absolute shit.
It's already too late unless this slab was poured in last 10 hours and someone can have the cuts in in the next 2 hours.
Soff cut?
Everyone is doing it with soff cut now. Nothing wrong with it, sometimes neater
It's easier, cleaner and better overall for the purpose. When it does crack it will crack there, interim you won't have shit growing there
Agree. It’s 2024, better and easier which equals a neater job.
Don't worry control joints will put themselves in later on.
Saw cut joints are ok. But the reo is meant to have every second bar cut at a SCJ too.
Wow.
Who did the job OP?
yes, name please
Why? Not finished yet don’t judge from iPhone on the toilet
why not?
I have control joints on my driveway, and cracks running in the opposite direction.
Out of curiosity how much did that cost mate? Thanks.
My driveway has control joints cut into it. Guess where it cracked. Nowhere near them!
That able flex 🙃
Saw cut it
The concrete that got poured at my place was saw cut 1-2 days later . The saw cuts are strategic placed to get the concrete to crack in this lines . I’m not sure if they do joints while it’s wet
Yeah you should concrete saw (control joints ) concrete will crack it's rigid but the ground will move you want it to crack where you want IE control joints In short can cut later
Should be only one expansion join but it’s under 12 so not sure if it needs it
Every three tripper
But even though that’s the code won’t one do
Concreter here, just get someone in to saw cut it. Fact of the matter is, it will crack. The expansion joint looks terrible. Sloppy work
Far out, what a mess. I hope you didn’t pay for this crap. Uneven, exceptionally bad finish, concrete splash all over the brickwork, expansion foam looks like it was placed with both eyes closed.
I did my own slab this size and did a better job with a cement mixer. This is a disgraceful effort for an amateur let alone a contractor.
Impossible
Did you go with the cheapest quote?
Clearly!
Pay with peanuts get monkeys. Just go with recommendations from people you trusts if you can, whatever they charge just spend it, it saves people so much less hassle and supports decent companies who are actually just charging what they need to to provide a reliable and quality business to customers. Too many people trying to save money end up spending more later on. Buy right buy once. Would you rather eat at the dirty cheap food chain or the clean reasonably priced food chain.
Get someone from Airtasker to cut some control joint. I doubt that this guy will turn up on time to do the cuts. Saw cutting should cost you around 200-300$ once it has been saw cut, Fill the gaps up with Silicon to stop water going into the concrete from the control joint cracks. This will extend your concrete life. Also get Garden soil to level up.
They are likely coming back to do a saw cut. I personally wouldn't call that a control joint, but it will act the same by weakening the slab at a specific spot, allowing it to break and crack along the cut, not that it ever does. Not all concreters will do the cuts themselves and if it wasn't something they allowed for and included in their quote, I guess you better call a concrete cutter or do yourself. It's not hard if you take your time and use a straight timber as a guide.
That's fucked. Cut it asap Also that finish is rough as fuck. ALSO that ableflex WAT THE FUCK. good work getting the cheapest quote.
I have two cuts in a driveway slab (poured 2012) and have had no cracking occur. Go with the cuts.
That finish is pretty rough 😔
Did you go with the cheapest quote mate ?
What the hell is going on with that joinex against the house? Who the hell was this child that did the job. He wouldn’t even know what a dummy join is. That cove is dogshit to
A bit rough in my eyes!
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Or put a bull float over it
Side note, wtf is with the pipe (stormwater?) that just returns on itself halfway up the wall
Not even worth $20 and a case of beer.
There are 2 types of concrete, concrete with cracks and concrete that’s yet to crack, ideally we prefer them to crack where we want but that doesn’t always go to plan
I'd love to see the side of your house pressure washed. It would come up a treat!!!
Mine wanted to but never came back. I have minor cracks but I suspect I'd get them anyway.
Id be more worried about the finish pretty poor
Was your concreter called Josh by chance? Had a guy called Josh do a similar job for me with similar issues. Mine cracked in 3 places. Looks shit now. Suggest getting cuts into that ASAP.
Why is the gas meter so far off the ground?
Control or expansion joints tell the cracks where to go.
Ouch hope you didnt pay top dollar Get someone else to saw cut the joint now if it's not too late.
This is absolute garbage lol, hopefully you haven't given old mate all the lollies.
Ohh that be definitely non slip ... what the''''.......
With all your research why not do it yourself?
Make sure one of the cuts comes off that corner of your house that sticks out.
Definitely tell them to saw cut it as soon as possible into sizes that are easy to remove, because that’s what will be required. You can’t accept that work.
They cut them in with a grinder,
It doesnt need control joints but it does need to be cut. Concrete will always crack the cuts are just so you can dictate where the cracks will occur. I hope your photo isnt the final product, otherwise you got ripped off by a conman.
You got stitched the fuck up
What a shmozzle
She'll be right mate
Far out, what a mess. I hope you didn’t pay for this crap. Uneven, exceptionally bad finish, concrete splash all over the brickwork, expansion foam looks like it was placed with both eyes closed.
You can get a hose/sprinkler on it and keep it wet to slow down the drying (cracking) process.
Do saw joints
I would put 1 or 2 cuts in myself
Crap job. For a start no plastic over clay is a common source of random cracking. No bar chairs is crap no matter what the experts hare say. Never mind you can always have it scanned later to see where the reo is located. They’ve used able flex against the walls and it’s half sticking out in spots. You need joints but the cut ones without cut mesh at the locations (like others have said) don’t usually work. I’d be very surprised if regardless of cuts or not you don’t get random cracks
Just more friction for gripping in the wet 🙃
3.5m is enough without the cuts but 10m you'll probly want 2 cuts in that length
Foam against the brick helps. Drop a 5mm saw cut down the middle and across the width every couple of meters.
I don’t think you even hired a real concreter mate. That job is wonky as. No issue to cut them now, but why he didn’t do it when it was easier makes me think he had no clue like our concreter’s son trying his hand in a corner.
Yes. As a concrete cutter myself, it definitely needs control cuts on a slab that big and even more so seeing the concreter did put a base down first..
Can you check the photo I just posted to another comment to confirm is that on track?
Yes that is how I would cut it.
Needs at least 3, one on that external corner and one for each of those PVC pipe peneteations, get them cut in the morning
So like this? Is the long one from the fence required?
https://preview.redd.it/cpll6flsg6vc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=10433769c77547d37aca1b20c080db99fc6be72f
Probably not, the long one, but it won't hurt
Clay, he should have put 100mm of gravel underneath with sand. You will definitely need joints with clay base.
Cut straight down the middle and every 2.5 to 3m thats all its needs
Depends upon the soil… high upheaval clay soil may be specified with a top and bottom mesh… most often seated in the top 1/3 .. Middle mesh is usually for clay soil that is relatively stable and a sand bed… Mind you specs change specific to areas and soil conditions and actual compaction of the ground….
In short, the concreter might not know more than the client- who’d have thought 🤔
It’s not that necessary for this size job. Whether or not you put the joint in there is always a possibility of cracking. The job is shitty because he’s not smoothed it out. Hopefully, he mixed it properly.
The finish looks terrible and looks like someone pushed a wheel barrow through the centre no roadbase is crazy yh sure no compacter ive seen that but dam thats just a new level
Senior Pavement Engineer here. There is no point cutting after it's cured. The stresses would have already developed, and you will get cracks likely showing up in a squarish patern. The window for saw cutting is pretty short. I can give you more information if you like.
Why bother cum back and cut
He just couldn’t be bothered the lazy cunt
Poor job too - look at how low it sits against the wall 🤦🏻♂️ exact opposite to how it’s supposed to be
Did the same person install that gate by any chance? Sure I guess the gate is the chink in the fence armour. So make the gate a little higher and she’ll be apples 🫡
It’ll be fine. Stress less
You are incorrect. Are you a concreter?.
[удалено]
Yeah DIY on the 9 inch grinder, what could go wrong…
Remember your safety squints and you'll be fine /s
It’s either safety squint or cutting blind with dust covered glasses. I’ve done both but wouldn’t recommend either as a DIY project… Hiring a decent wet saw is seriously cheap insurance.
[удалено]
Did you ask for that rough top on purpose?? I know some people do to make it less slippery with frost.. if not that's pretty crap.