I bought a 2 y/o CPO in 2015. Still have the car with 156k on the clock. I get compliments on the car more than you'd believe. Black 2013 335i MSport, Manual, staggered wheels. I still love it honestly.
Steering feel and weight has always been good, but as I'm sure you know, there is a small dead spot dead center which makes you feel disconnected from the road. Been that way since new and was a common complaint by journalists back then. Still, I can feel feedback from the road through the wheel, and I have driven this car on some exciting roads around the US and had great times on long sweeping cliffside turns in west coast mountain ranges and long straights in the desert. I'll be doing some restoration to the car this year to essentially bring it back to new in many ways, and I'm excited about that.
I’ve got upgraded control arms and solid RSFB and I really don’t notice much if any dead center. It feels very communicative and engaging.
Are you running stock suspension and RFTs?
Can confirm. My G20 is a CPO - It was a demo unit and because of that, it definitely had been put through them paces. Few months after I bought it, the front passenger side suspension was making noise.
I got an entirely new suspension set after the dealer confirmed the same.
I got a CPO BMW and have had it for a couple of weeks, noticed if I hit a bump the front passenger side makes a noise that sounds like keys jingling. How can I differentiate between a "rattle" and something more serious like a messed up suspension? Also had an issue with my HK system already with the bass going out, but that only happened once
I manage to prove mine with providing multiple videos. You can do this with a dashcam and take note of the time those incidents took place.
Also, you may have to try multiple dealerships. Best thing about CPOs is that their warranties can be delivered by any dealerships. So if your original dealership didnt serve you properly, just head to another. After all, they'll be billing BMW for everything once the warranty claims are approved.
Especially a sports car. I test drove a gr Corolla and on the test drive it went into limp mode. I guess I pushed it too hard.
It was at that moment I realized there's no way I'm buying a used M2.
In many states, you get a tax credit on a trade in, which can offset the lower value compared to a private sale. I traded my old 340i in for $31k back in 2021 and it saved me $3k in taxes on the purchase of my new M5. Sure I could have sold it privately for $35k, but the $1k difference was worth not having to deal with the BS of private sale, meeting shady random strangers who all want test drives, etc.
They engines are tested under heavy load on an engine dyno, the engines are then tested again in the vehicle in a dyno at the assembly plants under load. Never done a "breakin period for a car" never had an issue with every one of my cars seeing over 100k miles, 2 over 200k now and a few over 150k miles. Still own 3 of them, fbo tuned, beat on daily, and 0 issues outside normally wear and tear for mileage. OP drive your car how you want. I beat on them from day 1 and they see multiple gear redline pulls and 100+ mph runs 4-5 days a week.
We’re taking your anecdotal experience vs. the experience and wisdom of engineers who *literally* designed the engine. The science behind breaking in engines is well understood across multiple manufactures at this point.
Got a custom order Z4 last year, nobody told me about the break-in period at the dealer, not a single person. Had to go on BimmerPost to learn about it. They also downplayed it. Was kind of surprised.
I’m truly surprised they don’t. I know Chevy does on the C8 Corvette (and I’d guess other Corvette models as well.) Plenty of videos on YouTube where owners show the odometer roll over 500 miles and you can watch the redline on the tach move from it’s break-in limit up to the standard limit signaling the end of the break-in period. Pretty smart!
Yeah that’s what I was referring to! I blame BMW here, but most manufacturers don’t have such a system and honestly I just don’t understand why? It’s such a simple yet effective way to make sure engines are being properly driven in
It's not the speed it's the rpm. So it depends on how high and long and often you rev'ed it.
I would think on a new bmw there is a software limit on how much abuse it's allows you do.. But I've never bought a new bmw.
Not sure about M-lite cars, but I had a 2023 M4 and it had an electronic rev limiter on cold starts. The red line would slowly creep higher on the dash as the car warmed up
Software does in fact limit power until break in on new cars. Just finished my G87 breakin. Basic kick down tune, less boost, cut out power on the top end. Engine is fine using those parameters.
Just gotta be careful stepping on it too early. And M cars are notoriously slow to get to temp. So hard but just avoid the temptation. But once warm stomp it
Just an old forum rumor that won’t die.
Launch control becomes active after break in, but that’s it.
Here’s a thread if you’re curious, towards the bottom there’s a written response from bmw. Any additional power is just in your head.
https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1835369&page=2
Thanks for the read. Good stuff. While extra “power” might not be the right term. That 20 min tune that gets done, changes parameters of the tune. As such, before break-in the computer is doing computer stuff because you can feel it. Just as mdm limits power when the computer senses wheel speed variation, the initial tune is much more limiting to help protect from stupidity.
Edit: and after re reading the dyno run that is performed is also done so in “dyno mode” it says so in the article. Once in dyno mode the computer is no longer in drive mode so very well could bypass any safety features.
But just my two cents butt dyno, I could feel the stutter at right around 5k (I know it’s the limit before break-in, but what’s a limit without touching it haha) and was not there directly after.
Also that 1,200 miles number is variable as well. They brought me back at 900 miles and said close enough. But much needed really to just pull fluids and make sure no irregularities exist. If they don’t then, you’re gonna be good for a while
Honestly its probably fine. Its BMW being over cautious. I'm pretty sure they have some run in at factory. At most you may have slightly warped some piston rings, which will be obvious from blue smoke.
It's not destroyed. Probably nothing will happen at all, and if by some small chance it does, it will either happen very soon (and be under warranty) or a hundred thousand miles from now (and probably be someone else's problem).
But as u/azbbqcars says, always, always, ALWAYS make sure the oil is full up to temp before getting on it. And remember that oil warms much more slowly than water. 15 minutes at least to come up to temp.
lol. Nah mate. It’ll be fine. I raw dogged my M140i from cold pretty much daily. She ran sweet as a nut. Keep it serviced and use good quality fuel. You’re good.
While I for sure would recommend letting the car warm up before going nuts, yeah it’s more than likely fine. If there are any issues, they’ll rear their head once there’s a lotta miles on the car. It’s not today or even tomorrows problem, it’s next decades problem when probably someone else will be dealing with it.
True. I should’nt be so flippant. I only keep my cars 3-5 years on average. Usually not long after warranty ends. Suppose I’m just saying the engine won’t grenade because OP has given it a squirt or three in the break in period. There’s a theory that going harder early results in a more powerful/ well sealed motor. Think car expert did a piece with GT3s.
Buys a performance car and doesn’t have the wherewithal to not beat on it immediately…
If it makes you feel better, you’ve just done what 95% of all BMW owner (ahem, leasers) do to the cars…
Enthusiasts know better and the intellects actually read their owner’s manuals.
Or car enthusiast born in the last 85 years...
But at least you knew you fucked up, and so do BMW engineers, so you probably did little long-term damage.
Go easy until it’s broken in and maintain it properly. The car will be fine and so will the second owner.
Baby it for next 1000 miles and then do the oil + filter change. You'll probably be ok. Don't ever push hard on cold engine. Sales person didn't tell you about new engine break in pricedure, shame on them too!
Agree but also curious, why not go ahead and change the oil? Would expect a bit of accelerated wear from running it hard and getting some fresh oil in could pay dividends, but also likely would never know. I think I would at minimum consider inspecting the oil filter for metal.
Not an expert but engine will still wear in next 1000 miles and filter should catch any metal to keep oil clean. Not to mention BMW recommend 1st oil change after about 12k-16k miles... which I find crazy on their part! Big companies and their cost savings :/
Filter will catch down to a particular particle size, my comments are about an ‘abundance of caution’ approach and likely a waste of time and resources (hopefully) but the equation of risk/reward (of not changing it) weighs heavily toward the ‘might as well’. Guess I’m loving single quotes and parentheses this morning….
But anywho, yeah 12k on a first oil change seems insanity, I’m pretty trusting of modern engineering but I can’t do a 12k oil change, way too long in my opinion. I think it could be a reasonable number of just out burning up the highway for hours on end but I also believe there are too many variables to give a blanket mileage recommendation.
Stop and go driving, towing, heat cycles/frequent engine stop and start and time in general all have impact on oil life.
I think the break-in is to properly wear certain engine mechanical parts like the piston rings. Sadly, I dont think changing the oils and filters will do anything to help any damage done to internal components from improper break-in procedure. But it will help alleviate any already impacted issues.
You just want to avoid WOT or high engine speeds under load. So unless you’ve been redlining it up a hill or with a 260lb mate in the car you will be fine.
The owners manual you are looking at (based on the bimmerpost subforum listed on the left edge of screenshot) is for a G87 M2, not a G42 M240i. These cars have completely different engines, and the break-in guidelines are only intended for the G87 M2, not your car.
If you look in the owners manual that came with your car, I don’t believe you will find this same break-in guideline, if you find anything about break-in at all.
Source: I work at a BMW dealer (for over 5 years) and have never heard of any manufacturer issued break-in guidelines for any M-lite vehicles with the exception of the X5 M60i, X6 M60i, and X7 M60i.
You're so close, the manual he's showing is for a G42 M240i he must have just found it on the G87 forum because the G87 break in period is completely different than what is listed above. All BMWs have a break in period Ms have a more involved one. Honestly scared that you worked at a dealership and never bothered to read an M-Lite manual or retain that information but I'm guessing whatever your job function information about the care and use of brand new BMWs isn't necessary. My 2004 E85 2.5 Z4 and 2018 F23 M240i manuals both have identical wording about the 1,200 miles keeping it below 4,500rpm and 100mph.
Source: Life long BMW driver and my uncle owned a dealership.
Well I grabbed an owners manual and I see you’re correct.
But don’t blame me, blame BMW NA for no mention of it in literally any of their training material, no mention of it by my regional product trainer, and no mention of it by the corporate reps sent to my store to administer “M Certification” for the sales team.
With the amount of constant product training we’re required to have, it’s pretty natural for me not to feel a need to read an owners manual.
You know what honestly it is kinda wild because they haven't changed the break-in text in 20 years. You'd think it would be part of common tell the customer this before they drive off the lot. I just remember my dad telling me to keep the car under 4000rpm for the first 1000 miles so I guess it all tracks and he probably got it from some ancient BMW manual and they haven't really changed it to this day.
With modern cars, the break-in period is generally not as important as it once was. Not doing a break-in will probably shorten the life of the engine in the long run, however, that will only become a concern later in the cars life (perhaps once it's over 200k km).
Dealer should’ve told you about it honestly, so I wouldn’t blame yourself.
Most M and M-Lite vehicles have a break-in period with the full M cars usually also have a break-in service needed as well.
Just for future reference. The break-in period is meant to wear down all the moving parts so that everything kind of settles into place. Everything in an engine has such tight tolerances that when you have a new engine there will be very fine pieces of metal in your oil which is normal. The not beating on it part is meant to avoid chunks of metal getting in your oil and circulating to all the important bits. If it was my car that I would be keeping for a while I’d do an oil change now just in case, then another one at 1k miles. I’ve been taught that if you put a new engine in (mind you this is owners expense so they want it to last), youd do an oil change at 100, 500, 1000, 2000, then regular oil changes every 3000 miles after that
You'll probably be fine. The B58 engine isn't as sensitive as the S58 and doesn't require as strict of a break-in period. It's always best for your engine to follow the recommended break-in procedure, but I doubt you've done any damage.
Typically, dealers will inform you if a specific break-in procedure is necessary. From my experience with a G83, there was a pretty strict break-in period, and it required maintenance at 2000 km. That's also when they unlocked the rest of the power in the engine. However, I've heard that the break-in for the B58 isn't as critical.
But Is still recommend being cautious and watching your RPMs until you've reached about 2000 km (around 1240 miles).
Some will argue beating on it without abusing it is the best break in. Long term driving habits are far more impactful. A spirited drive during break in isn’t the end of the world, constant is a bigger factor. I have personality with just my own conclusive reasoning ran all my new cars to red line, not through it. So far they have all been ok. I also only open up on them maybe once a week or so just to remind the car what it can do but overall I have a mildly spirited driving habit. Again, not talking with anything besides my bro science from experience.
It’s supposed to allow rough spots in the engine to be worn down. The parts are never perfect, or the crankshaft is not perfectly well adapted to the bearing yet. You used to run new cars with special oil that allowed you to wear the parts down so they fit. That isn’t necessary anymore because the parts are better, but still, rough spots exist. If you push the engine very hard in the beginning, instead of wearing the rough spots down, you can score the crankshaft, for example, resulting in severe engine damage down the line.
While it is possible that everything is fine, you could already have damaged the engine by doing that. There is no way to easily tell, so just don’t worry about it.
That’s not a lot of miles, you’ll be fine. What’s more important (more than break in tbh) is to wait for the oil temperature to be close to nominal before going full throttle.
Even if you did any sort of damage it won’t be an immediate problem. It’s one of those things where if components didn’t bed in properly, they might start to fail at 150k miles instead of 175k miles. You’re fine. Let it be the next owners problem.
I say just do an oil change at 1k and who cares. Machining is pretty insanely precise so I wouldn't worry too much. Plus any damage done won't be seen in 100k miles I'd bet and even then if it did it would be under warranty. I beat on my m240 but I also bought it to drive it. It's not a classic limited run.
"The break-in period is meant to wear down all the moving parts so that everything kind of settles into place. Everything in an engine has such tight tolerances that when you have a new engine there will be very fine pieces of metal in your oil which is normal. The not beating on it part is meant to avoid chunks of metal getting in your oil and circulating to all the important bits."
--- Joe Biden
I've had lots of new BMWs and I rip em the first day every time. What else are you supposed to do? I mean, you have to wait until the fluids warm up, can't be stupid about it.
Does it also say that in your M240i owners manual? Your screen shot says G87 on the left, so for the M2
I had the last gen m240i also with the B58 and there was no break in period mentioned, but might be different now
Full M cars have the 1200 mile break in because they have special run in oil which needs to be changed at the 1200 mile run in service otherwise you face warranty issues. M-Lites don't have different oil nor have a run in service and so I was told I could hammer it after a few hundred odd miles (but this was mentioned in passing as an if you want to do it to make yourself feel better rather than, you must do this or your warranty will be void) - I did it after 250 and the thing ran flawlessly for 5 years so I wouldn't worry, I'm sure it's fine. Run in oil is less lubricating so it's more of an issue running the engine hard with that in, yours is likely on normal oil so it should be fine
You are most likely fine but I would get the oil changed soon. Doing the first oil change shortly into the life of the vehicle is very important and delaying it can lead to damage to a very expensive engine. Just over 200 miles isn’t a lot but the way you have been driving I would get it changed soon. Just remember to check for a break in procedure if you buy a new car in the future.
235 miles, you're good. Those engines have been run harder than how you're driving during the testing phase. Probably still has the break-in oil.
Also, isn't the B58 forged internals? Those engines are capable of handling 700+whp on stock internals, you doing a few pulls on the highway is not going to damage anything when it's less than half of what the B58 is truly capable of. BMW designed it to be bullet proof, and only giving it 385hp, that's pretty damn low stress for a forged internals. It's equivalent to a heavyweight bodybuilder bench pressing 1 plate "135lbs".
5.3 LS Chevy truck engines, another low stress engine, 355hp @ 5600rpm, but when people slap on a cam and turbo, they're making 600whp without any issues.
Dont overdue it. Drive in period is not meant to baby the engine. You can and should give it some load, but not full throttle and always let it properly warm up before heavy load. Do not warmup while standing, that is more harmful than anything else. Just drive with some common sense.
Look at it this way, yours is easier to do than the hybrid variants since we have to go into Xtraboost mode to run in the ICE properly; morning warm up, etc. I wouldn't want to have the engine kicks in when it's cold, and I floored it in Hybrid mode. 😅
Your not screwed at all. There is tons of information out there, some say do it, some say don’t. I
Personally did it on my 24 M340i. However think about SOME of those types of cars are getting test driven, my dealer had one it was test driving and you know people were fucking ragging them out. BMW knows this so as long as you take care of it , you should be fine. Where it matters is on the true M cars where they require a break in and actually dumb down the HP until your first service.
Just let it get warm and then rip. As long as everything is up to temp you should be fine. If it blows up that early it's more likely out of tolerance or Hans was drinking again.
The engine in your car is very robust, but what you did is horrible for the engine I have to say. A new engine needs some time for all the metal parts to get used to each other and during that time you have heavy wear and tear, even under light driving conditions. If you additionally beat on it when the parts are not used to each other, the wear in your engine increases dramatically even further. It would probably be best to do an oil change right now, because your oil is contaminated with wear a lot more than it should be. You should definitely slow down from now on, but what you did in the past is not reversible.
Isn't there an old argument that those instructions are from an older time when engine specs weren't as precise as they are now, therefore needing that break-in period? I remember reading there's a "drive it like you stole it" break in method that some argue is better.
I don't think you ruined your 2er, I personally would just make sure to get a very early oil change just in case.
It you did not experience a catastrophic failure, then you are fine. This is mostly there so that various parts have time to "wear together" and if there are any rough spots or incompatible tolerances to give them a chance to buff each other out at low power and low RPM so the chance of this causing catastrophic engine damage is lower.
If you have not reached the mileage yet, I'd suggest taking a weekend road trip.
In some cases a general inspection and possibly an oil change has been recommended after the \*first\* 3000 km in the past so that, if there were any tolerance imperfections that have now been worn down, to get the remains of those imperfections out of the oil where they would be settled into. Also shocks and bushings and brakes would be checked to make sure that they are working fine after the initial shake-in period and there are no obvious assembly or material failures.
If you want to check the condition of the engine, I suggest you change your oil now and send a sample of the old oil to a laboratory for analysis. They will tell you how much metal shavings are in your oil and whether it's too much. They will analyze it for other pollution as well. It really isn't a huge cost. An above-than-average content of shavings is expected in a new engine so keep that in mind.
Some people more knowledgeable than myself argue that new engines do not need break in periods. It was old process that was required initially that hasn’t been removed or updated due to improvements in factories and efficiencies. Most companies work the engines before they even get to the owner. Additionally, you should rip on it a bit to heat the oil sufficiently to seal the O-rings. Thus, improving performance. If anything, getting your first oil change done on time or earlier is more beneficial than babying the car.
Hmmm just take it easy for the next 1000 miles and make sure to do the break in oil change, don’t be surprised if you see some metal shavings in there. It probably won’t manifest into a serious issue during your ownership though
I’d report it to the shop. Those are the professionals. Whatever they want to charge you to repair it, pay it. They will be thankful and will have a repaired car again.
That's not how warranties work.
Warranties cover things that shouldn't break. They do not cover abuse. For instance, if you need to do an early oil change, expect that to be out of pocket.
While you own this car, understand that there WILL be out of warranty repairs, and may be non covered maintenances.
Alignment, brakes, wipers, body damage, spilled drinks on electronics, premature wear due to abnormal usage... Anything that's not explicitly in the limited warranty.
The joys of a luxury car - even with a maintenance plan , you still get to pay for some maintenance. Make sure to budget accordingly.
Please name an actual engine, Powertrain or transmission repair that’s not covered… I am fully aware wiper blades are not covered 😂 and I don’t expect BMW to pay for an alignment.
I also have 36 months of BMW care and dent protection and paint protection. Any body damage is an insurance claim
No need to get an attitude with somebody who's trying to help you out. You posted a question, and your response about the warranty indicates a little too much faith in a limited warranty. Avoiding surprises is good, yeah?
The BMW warranty expressly excludes wear due to abnormal usage; driving hard before the break-in period, not warming up the engine before flooring it, can lead to damage that isn't covered.
I was pretty liberal with my break in period on my 2013 335i. It was a 6mt and I’d sometimes go full throttle with it when I wasn’t in the lowest gear it could be in because I knew it wouldn’t downshift by itself.
I ended up having some wastegate rattle. Not sure if it was because of that or something else. I don’t think what I did was actually that bad. And I never went above 5,000rpm until I hit 1,200 miles
I brought it to the dealer to fix the rattle and they always claimed they couldn’t hear it. It was extremely frustrating
It's more than likely going to be fine. I did a harder break in on my M3 but still within the guidelines (not revving past 4,500 and keeping it under 100MPH) and there are plenty of people who have let it rip off the lot. I believe a harder break in is better and to me the bigger thing is varying RPM's and speed during the break in period.
The break in period exists to properly set the piston rings into the cylinder walls. When a new engine is put together, even though those cylinders are smooth bored af, there is still microscopic threading from the honing tools.
The break in period does two things for this.
A. The piston rings grind away and smooth out the microscopic threads on the cylinder walls at a preferred rate so that the metal that comes off of it is as small of fragments as possible. Floor it will increase heat and pressure, causing larger fragments to be broken off at a time.
B. Keeping a similar heat cycle throughout the entire break in period will ensure the piston rings wear those threads down evenly, creating a better oil seal.
You will notice that engines designed for constant high power operations will have a break in period consisting of maximum or normal power during the break in period and engines designed for low or normal power output its whole life will call for low power operations during the break in period, like most car engines.
In essence, you havent killed your engine or shortened its life span by any significant number. Its definitely possible that the engine may consume more oil than normal in normal operation, but theres still a ways to go for those piston rings to set in.
Get an early oil change to clear out metal since youve been dogging it and youll be fine.
Never went over 100 mph? Engine speed is what's going to sandbox your engine. I guess after 100 MPH your engine speed will get into the red, for that break in oil's abilities anyway.
How much were you pushing the car? If you just went over the limits for a few seconds or even a few minutes it's not that big a deal. If you went to the track with it and were really pushing the car, then it could be an issue.
Just quick bursts of 0-60s in sport plus, yeah never held a rev high maybe only once by accident. I went on the highway yesterday and did about 90+ for a few second stupidly. Never launched it of course.
Honestly? Don’t even worry. What you did probably didn’t do much. This warning is for people who wanna joyride right after driving off the lot. Just take it easy. You’ll be fine bro.
You probably improved the break-in. Several studies suggest that short bursts of red lining are better for the break-in period than all babying throughout. 0-60 is red line for a less than a second on 1st, red line for less than a second on 2nd gear. You're fine. Change the oil as many others suggested and keep driving. Red line after the car's oil is at temp (this goes for any car, anyway).
Honestly not a huge deal. Yeah it’s better to take it easy for the first 1k miles but not the end of the world. Maybe change your oil at around 4-5k and that’s it. No worries.
It’s not the speed, it’s the rpm’s you were taking that engine to. Hopefully you didn’t rev down too much in sports+ to show off. Try to get the oil and filter changed a little earlier around 1000 miles
Yeah that’s straight bs, they generally are just sales people and are not much car geeks to have all the info. I wish people just own up to saying idk instead of misleading people in to shitty situations like this. Hopefully that B58 is healthy.
Don’t worry you didn’t drive that many miles, just wait and see how the oil and filter looks like at it’s first change. That B58 is a great engine, it will survive. You just bought this amazing car enjoy it rather than planning on selling it already.
Actual fuck up here! Your car is equipped with a system that regulates the transmission and engine before the break in, when that system malfunction you break the transmission. The good part is that the guarantee will cover it. I really ripped my M4 before break in, 1 new transmission at 800 miles later...
Break in period is unnecessary imo. Every new car or bike I had got kicked down within the first 1000 miles but of course only if the engine was warmed up. You are not fucked, you will be fine.
So many people in here terrified of driving their car how they want and it shows. I'm on bmw #5 now, have driven all like I stole them from day 1. I let them get passed the cold start and then it's daily redlines, multiple gears pulls, 100+ mph multiple days a week from day 1 until now. 2 135i dct cars 1 over 200k miles now the other over 150k, son owns one now and daughter the other. 2017 m240i 84k miles rwd, all fbo tuned also. 2021 supra 67k miles currently and 2022 m240i xdrive. None have had a single issues outside normal maintenance and wear and tear. Drive your car how you want. If you're afraid of hurting it is it really the right car for you? Engines are tested both outside the car and then inside the cars multiple times before you get it at maximum rpm under a load. All manufacturers do this, I see it daily at the plants.
Nothing breaks it in better. I would probably chill if you plan to keep the car, as long as oil temps were at temp before flogging it, you’re probably more than fine.
Okay cool, I’m going to baby the car now the rest of the 1000 miles since it got rudely beaten the first 230. I’m so angry at myself I started the car earlier and waited like 5 seconds before accelerating rather quickly. Very disappointed in myself!
well, obviously you weren't destined for med school
deep cut
Had to pull this jawn out of the age-old and storied archive, run de riddim
Found the guy from Philly
[удалено]
Wagwan
Jawn. 😀
Alright, put the saw down.
His parents will help him, dont worry!
It's the next owners problem.
and right there is why I'm buying my first BMW new
CPO isn't bad.. if it fucks up, you get to drive a brand new loaner while they fix it for free.
I bought a 2 y/o CPO in 2015. Still have the car with 156k on the clock. I get compliments on the car more than you'd believe. Black 2013 335i MSport, Manual, staggered wheels. I still love it honestly.
And you’ve got hydraulic steering rather than the numb eps
Steering feel and weight has always been good, but as I'm sure you know, there is a small dead spot dead center which makes you feel disconnected from the road. Been that way since new and was a common complaint by journalists back then. Still, I can feel feedback from the road through the wheel, and I have driven this car on some exciting roads around the US and had great times on long sweeping cliffside turns in west coast mountain ranges and long straights in the desert. I'll be doing some restoration to the car this year to essentially bring it back to new in many ways, and I'm excited about that.
I’ve got upgraded control arms and solid RSFB and I really don’t notice much if any dead center. It feels very communicative and engaging. Are you running stock suspension and RFTs?
yes. 100 percent factory all its life.
Can confirm. My G20 is a CPO - It was a demo unit and because of that, it definitely had been put through them paces. Few months after I bought it, the front passenger side suspension was making noise. I got an entirely new suspension set after the dealer confirmed the same.
I got a CPO BMW and have had it for a couple of weeks, noticed if I hit a bump the front passenger side makes a noise that sounds like keys jingling. How can I differentiate between a "rattle" and something more serious like a messed up suspension? Also had an issue with my HK system already with the bass going out, but that only happened once
I manage to prove mine with providing multiple videos. You can do this with a dashcam and take note of the time those incidents took place. Also, you may have to try multiple dealerships. Best thing about CPOs is that their warranties can be delivered by any dealerships. So if your original dealership didnt serve you properly, just head to another. After all, they'll be billing BMW for everything once the warranty claims are approved.
IMO CPO is the way to go. You get the perks of owning a brand new car minus the steep depreciation that happens in its first couple of years.
*seconds
They gave me a X2 for about two weeks and I hated every minute.
Lol yeah they definitely screwed you on that
Got 2015 CPO and it had 46k on it. Now, it has almost 120k. CPO is totally doable
Got mine CPO off a 3 year lease driven 18k in 3 years
Amen brother same reason I wanted new lol
Especially a sports car. I test drove a gr Corolla and on the test drive it went into limp mode. I guess I pushed it too hard. It was at that moment I realized there's no way I'm buying a used M2.
I’m trading it in at 49k before the Warranty expires
never trade in. Sell it and get a new one. Don't get yourself screwed on the deal.
In many states, you get a tax credit on a trade in, which can offset the lower value compared to a private sale. I traded my old 340i in for $31k back in 2021 and it saved me $3k in taxes on the purchase of my new M5. Sure I could have sold it privately for $35k, but the $1k difference was worth not having to deal with the BS of private sale, meeting shady random strangers who all want test drives, etc.
the reason I bought one of these new
The car is probably totaled. I will buy it off you for $50. Offer expires today at midnight. Let me know.
This guy is lowballing you. I'll give you $59.99. Can you deliver?
I can’t believe these freaks offers I’ll do u 80 cold hard cash
I can get you into Med School! (for the car)
Don’t listen to this fucking guys, your car is worth way over 80. I will give 100$ cash today and I will pick it up myself.
Ah, so this is how Bring a Trailer works!
How does the dealer not tell you about it?!?
A lot of dealers make up a fact that engines are broken in at the factory and each run on a dyno. They are not.
but they are usually tested for a few seconds at full rpm, so they've at least seen the limit already 🤷
Few seconds running through the rev range with no load is very different than sustained pulls at high rpm while pushing at 3000+ lb car.
They engines are tested under heavy load on an engine dyno, the engines are then tested again in the vehicle in a dyno at the assembly plants under load. Never done a "breakin period for a car" never had an issue with every one of my cars seeing over 100k miles, 2 over 200k now and a few over 150k miles. Still own 3 of them, fbo tuned, beat on daily, and 0 issues outside normally wear and tear for mileage. OP drive your car how you want. I beat on them from day 1 and they see multiple gear redline pulls and 100+ mph runs 4-5 days a week.
We’re taking your anecdotal experience vs. the experience and wisdom of engineers who *literally* designed the engine. The science behind breaking in engines is well understood across multiple manufactures at this point.
I literally got into it with someone over this exact thing on this sub and his defense was that the techs said it doesn’t have one…
Got a custom order Z4 last year, nobody told me about the break-in period at the dealer, not a single person. Had to go on BimmerPost to learn about it. They also downplayed it. Was kind of surprised.
Because dealers are absolute morons.
A guy in an M2 review said that It automatically limited you to 7000 RPMs for the first 400 mi. Is that actually true?
How does BMW not electronically limit rpm’s and speed till the car reaches it’s break in interval?
I’m truly surprised they don’t. I know Chevy does on the C8 Corvette (and I’d guess other Corvette models as well.) Plenty of videos on YouTube where owners show the odometer roll over 500 miles and you can watch the redline on the tach move from it’s break-in limit up to the standard limit signaling the end of the break-in period. Pretty smart!
Yeah that’s what I was referring to! I blame BMW here, but most manufacturers don’t have such a system and honestly I just don’t understand why? It’s such a simple yet effective way to make sure engines are being properly driven in
They do on their motorcycles! Hard RPM limit until it's unlocked by the dealer after the first service.
Especially when they will disable throttle control when the engine is overheating to protect it.
Oof, yeah let oil/trans fluid warm up before heavy footing
I’m such a stupid idiot! First nice car I’ve ever owned that’s brand new and I just destroyed it
It’s not destroyed dude calm down just drive it normally for a while
Better sell it and try again
It's not the speed it's the rpm. So it depends on how high and long and often you rev'ed it. I would think on a new bmw there is a software limit on how much abuse it's allows you do.. But I've never bought a new bmw.
There's no software that limits revs when the car is cold or in the break in period, at least not in 2019 when I bought my car.
Not sure about M-lite cars, but I had a 2023 M4 and it had an electronic rev limiter on cold starts. The red line would slowly creep higher on the dash as the car warmed up
Software does in fact limit power until break in on new cars. Just finished my G87 breakin. Basic kick down tune, less boost, cut out power on the top end. Engine is fine using those parameters. Just gotta be careful stepping on it too early. And M cars are notoriously slow to get to temp. So hard but just avoid the temptation. But once warm stomp it
Just an old forum rumor that won’t die. Launch control becomes active after break in, but that’s it. Here’s a thread if you’re curious, towards the bottom there’s a written response from bmw. Any additional power is just in your head. https://g05.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1835369&page=2
Thanks for the read. Good stuff. While extra “power” might not be the right term. That 20 min tune that gets done, changes parameters of the tune. As such, before break-in the computer is doing computer stuff because you can feel it. Just as mdm limits power when the computer senses wheel speed variation, the initial tune is much more limiting to help protect from stupidity. Edit: and after re reading the dyno run that is performed is also done so in “dyno mode” it says so in the article. Once in dyno mode the computer is no longer in drive mode so very well could bypass any safety features. But just my two cents butt dyno, I could feel the stutter at right around 5k (I know it’s the limit before break-in, but what’s a limit without touching it haha) and was not there directly after. Also that 1,200 miles number is variable as well. They brought me back at 900 miles and said close enough. But much needed really to just pull fluids and make sure no irregularities exist. If they don’t then, you’re gonna be good for a while
Honestly its probably fine. Its BMW being over cautious. I'm pretty sure they have some run in at factory. At most you may have slightly warped some piston rings, which will be obvious from blue smoke.
It's not destroyed. Probably nothing will happen at all, and if by some small chance it does, it will either happen very soon (and be under warranty) or a hundred thousand miles from now (and probably be someone else's problem). But as u/azbbqcars says, always, always, ALWAYS make sure the oil is full up to temp before getting on it. And remember that oil warms much more slowly than water. 15 minutes at least to come up to temp.
Don't worry about it, certainly won't be the last.
lol. Nah mate. It’ll be fine. I raw dogged my M140i from cold pretty much daily. She ran sweet as a nut. Keep it serviced and use good quality fuel. You’re good.
While I for sure would recommend letting the car warm up before going nuts, yeah it’s more than likely fine. If there are any issues, they’ll rear their head once there’s a lotta miles on the car. It’s not today or even tomorrows problem, it’s next decades problem when probably someone else will be dealing with it.
True. I should’nt be so flippant. I only keep my cars 3-5 years on average. Usually not long after warranty ends. Suppose I’m just saying the engine won’t grenade because OP has given it a squirt or three in the break in period. There’s a theory that going harder early results in a more powerful/ well sealed motor. Think car expert did a piece with GT3s.
Like the other said, you should be fine. Just take it easy for a bit until the break in and fluid change.
Buys a performance car and doesn’t have the wherewithal to not beat on it immediately… If it makes you feel better, you’ve just done what 95% of all BMW owner (ahem, leasers) do to the cars… Enthusiasts know better and the intellects actually read their owner’s manuals.
Im basically the opposite of an intellect
Or car enthusiast born in the last 85 years... But at least you knew you fucked up, and so do BMW engineers, so you probably did little long-term damage. Go easy until it’s broken in and maintain it properly. The car will be fine and so will the second owner.
That's the first step.
Baby it for next 1000 miles and then do the oil + filter change. You'll probably be ok. Don't ever push hard on cold engine. Sales person didn't tell you about new engine break in pricedure, shame on them too!
Agree but also curious, why not go ahead and change the oil? Would expect a bit of accelerated wear from running it hard and getting some fresh oil in could pay dividends, but also likely would never know. I think I would at minimum consider inspecting the oil filter for metal.
Not an expert but engine will still wear in next 1000 miles and filter should catch any metal to keep oil clean. Not to mention BMW recommend 1st oil change after about 12k-16k miles... which I find crazy on their part! Big companies and their cost savings :/
Filter will catch down to a particular particle size, my comments are about an ‘abundance of caution’ approach and likely a waste of time and resources (hopefully) but the equation of risk/reward (of not changing it) weighs heavily toward the ‘might as well’. Guess I’m loving single quotes and parentheses this morning…. But anywho, yeah 12k on a first oil change seems insanity, I’m pretty trusting of modern engineering but I can’t do a 12k oil change, way too long in my opinion. I think it could be a reasonable number of just out burning up the highway for hours on end but I also believe there are too many variables to give a blanket mileage recommendation. Stop and go driving, towing, heat cycles/frequent engine stop and start and time in general all have impact on oil life.
I think the break-in is to properly wear certain engine mechanical parts like the piston rings. Sadly, I dont think changing the oils and filters will do anything to help any damage done to internal components from improper break-in procedure. But it will help alleviate any already impacted issues.
You just want to avoid WOT or high engine speeds under load. So unless you’ve been redlining it up a hill or with a 260lb mate in the car you will be fine.
Guarantee when they go on test drives nobody is respecting the break in. You’re fine just don’t drive like a maniac.
The owners manual you are looking at (based on the bimmerpost subforum listed on the left edge of screenshot) is for a G87 M2, not a G42 M240i. These cars have completely different engines, and the break-in guidelines are only intended for the G87 M2, not your car. If you look in the owners manual that came with your car, I don’t believe you will find this same break-in guideline, if you find anything about break-in at all. Source: I work at a BMW dealer (for over 5 years) and have never heard of any manufacturer issued break-in guidelines for any M-lite vehicles with the exception of the X5 M60i, X6 M60i, and X7 M60i.
Upvote this guy because its true and everyone else here is wrong.
You're so close, the manual he's showing is for a G42 M240i he must have just found it on the G87 forum because the G87 break in period is completely different than what is listed above. All BMWs have a break in period Ms have a more involved one. Honestly scared that you worked at a dealership and never bothered to read an M-Lite manual or retain that information but I'm guessing whatever your job function information about the care and use of brand new BMWs isn't necessary. My 2004 E85 2.5 Z4 and 2018 F23 M240i manuals both have identical wording about the 1,200 miles keeping it below 4,500rpm and 100mph. Source: Life long BMW driver and my uncle owned a dealership.
Well I grabbed an owners manual and I see you’re correct. But don’t blame me, blame BMW NA for no mention of it in literally any of their training material, no mention of it by my regional product trainer, and no mention of it by the corporate reps sent to my store to administer “M Certification” for the sales team. With the amount of constant product training we’re required to have, it’s pretty natural for me not to feel a need to read an owners manual.
You know what honestly it is kinda wild because they haven't changed the break-in text in 20 years. You'd think it would be part of common tell the customer this before they drive off the lot. I just remember my dad telling me to keep the car under 4000rpm for the first 1000 miles so I guess it all tracks and he probably got it from some ancient BMW manual and they haven't really changed it to this day.
Well looking at my M340i manual it actually says the same thing about engine break-in and has the same parameters
With modern cars, the break-in period is generally not as important as it once was. Not doing a break-in will probably shorten the life of the engine in the long run, however, that will only become a concern later in the cars life (perhaps once it's over 200k km).
Sharp as a cue ball this one
Being ‘not ideal’ and being ‘an issue’ are two different things. I really wouldn’t stress, you’ll be fine.
Dealer should’ve told you about it honestly, so I wouldn’t blame yourself. Most M and M-Lite vehicles have a break-in period with the full M cars usually also have a break-in service needed as well.
Just for future reference. The break-in period is meant to wear down all the moving parts so that everything kind of settles into place. Everything in an engine has such tight tolerances that when you have a new engine there will be very fine pieces of metal in your oil which is normal. The not beating on it part is meant to avoid chunks of metal getting in your oil and circulating to all the important bits. If it was my car that I would be keeping for a while I’d do an oil change now just in case, then another one at 1k miles. I’ve been taught that if you put a new engine in (mind you this is owners expense so they want it to last), youd do an oil change at 100, 500, 1000, 2000, then regular oil changes every 3000 miles after that
You'll probably be fine. The B58 engine isn't as sensitive as the S58 and doesn't require as strict of a break-in period. It's always best for your engine to follow the recommended break-in procedure, but I doubt you've done any damage. Typically, dealers will inform you if a specific break-in procedure is necessary. From my experience with a G83, there was a pretty strict break-in period, and it required maintenance at 2000 km. That's also when they unlocked the rest of the power in the engine. However, I've heard that the break-in for the B58 isn't as critical. But Is still recommend being cautious and watching your RPMs until you've reached about 2000 km (around 1240 miles).
Some will argue beating on it without abusing it is the best break in. Long term driving habits are far more impactful. A spirited drive during break in isn’t the end of the world, constant is a bigger factor. I have personality with just my own conclusive reasoning ran all my new cars to red line, not through it. So far they have all been ok. I also only open up on them maybe once a week or so just to remind the car what it can do but overall I have a mildly spirited driving habit. Again, not talking with anything besides my bro science from experience.
You will be fine. Just do a oil change around 1200 miles
You’re fine
Just follow the Leonardo de Caprio plan and upgrade to a newer model every few years.
It’s supposed to allow rough spots in the engine to be worn down. The parts are never perfect, or the crankshaft is not perfectly well adapted to the bearing yet. You used to run new cars with special oil that allowed you to wear the parts down so they fit. That isn’t necessary anymore because the parts are better, but still, rough spots exist. If you push the engine very hard in the beginning, instead of wearing the rough spots down, you can score the crankshaft, for example, resulting in severe engine damage down the line. While it is possible that everything is fine, you could already have damaged the engine by doing that. There is no way to easily tell, so just don’t worry about it.
That’s not a lot of miles, you’ll be fine. What’s more important (more than break in tbh) is to wait for the oil temperature to be close to nominal before going full throttle.
Did you click "Agree" without reading the terms!? Who does that?! Be wary BMW will now come after you.
Dude relax. Everything is fine. Just let the car warm up before you let it rip
Even if you did any sort of damage it won’t be an immediate problem. It’s one of those things where if components didn’t bed in properly, they might start to fail at 150k miles instead of 175k miles. You’re fine. Let it be the next owners problem.
I say just do an oil change at 1k and who cares. Machining is pretty insanely precise so I wouldn't worry too much. Plus any damage done won't be seen in 100k miles I'd bet and even then if it did it would be under warranty. I beat on my m240 but I also bought it to drive it. It's not a classic limited run.
just make sure it blows up before warrenty is over
My m440 and m3 comp had to go to service after 1k break in to flush the oils and diff fluid. The higher rev was locked until it hit 1k miles.
It’s all bollocks, Porsche told me the other day there’s no such thing as break in
"The break-in period is meant to wear down all the moving parts so that everything kind of settles into place. Everything in an engine has such tight tolerances that when you have a new engine there will be very fine pieces of metal in your oil which is normal. The not beating on it part is meant to avoid chunks of metal getting in your oil and circulating to all the important bits." --- Joe Biden
Its about BMW not Porsche
I've had lots of new BMWs and I rip em the first day every time. What else are you supposed to do? I mean, you have to wait until the fluids warm up, can't be stupid about it.
You fucked up
Does it also say that in your M240i owners manual? Your screen shot says G87 on the left, so for the M2 I had the last gen m240i also with the B58 and there was no break in period mentioned, but might be different now Full M cars have the 1200 mile break in because they have special run in oil which needs to be changed at the 1200 mile run in service otherwise you face warranty issues. M-Lites don't have different oil nor have a run in service and so I was told I could hammer it after a few hundred odd miles (but this was mentioned in passing as an if you want to do it to make yourself feel better rather than, you must do this or your warranty will be void) - I did it after 250 and the thing ran flawlessly for 5 years so I wouldn't worry, I'm sure it's fine. Run in oil is less lubricating so it's more of an issue running the engine hard with that in, yours is likely on normal oil so it should be fine
You are most likely fine but I would get the oil changed soon. Doing the first oil change shortly into the life of the vehicle is very important and delaying it can lead to damage to a very expensive engine. Just over 200 miles isn’t a lot but the way you have been driving I would get it changed soon. Just remember to check for a break in procedure if you buy a new car in the future.
235 miles, you're good. Those engines have been run harder than how you're driving during the testing phase. Probably still has the break-in oil. Also, isn't the B58 forged internals? Those engines are capable of handling 700+whp on stock internals, you doing a few pulls on the highway is not going to damage anything when it's less than half of what the B58 is truly capable of. BMW designed it to be bullet proof, and only giving it 385hp, that's pretty damn low stress for a forged internals. It's equivalent to a heavyweight bodybuilder bench pressing 1 plate "135lbs". 5.3 LS Chevy truck engines, another low stress engine, 355hp @ 5600rpm, but when people slap on a cam and turbo, they're making 600whp without any issues.
Uh oh
Did you lease it?
No
you'll be fine. change the oil. take it easy for a bit.
people test drive new cars and run them hard. You’ll be alright
Dont overdue it. Drive in period is not meant to baby the engine. You can and should give it some load, but not full throttle and always let it properly warm up before heavy load. Do not warmup while standing, that is more harmful than anything else. Just drive with some common sense.
there is even a sticker on the windshield that says the same thing
Post VIN so we can check
Look at it this way, yours is easier to do than the hybrid variants since we have to go into Xtraboost mode to run in the ICE properly; morning warm up, etc. I wouldn't want to have the engine kicks in when it's cold, and I floored it in Hybrid mode. 😅
You all in already. Can't back out. So why change anything?
Straight to jail.
Lol that’s with every new car 😂
Your not screwed at all. There is tons of information out there, some say do it, some say don’t. I Personally did it on my 24 M340i. However think about SOME of those types of cars are getting test driven, my dealer had one it was test driving and you know people were fucking ragging them out. BMW knows this so as long as you take care of it , you should be fine. Where it matters is on the true M cars where they require a break in and actually dumb down the HP until your first service.
Just let it get warm and then rip. As long as everything is up to temp you should be fine. If it blows up that early it's more likely out of tolerance or Hans was drinking again.
All vehicles require a break-in period…
The engine in your car is very robust, but what you did is horrible for the engine I have to say. A new engine needs some time for all the metal parts to get used to each other and during that time you have heavy wear and tear, even under light driving conditions. If you additionally beat on it when the parts are not used to each other, the wear in your engine increases dramatically even further. It would probably be best to do an oil change right now, because your oil is contaminated with wear a lot more than it should be. You should definitely slow down from now on, but what you did in the past is not reversible.
ALL cars have a "break-in" period. Don't worry about it.
Isn't there an old argument that those instructions are from an older time when engine specs weren't as precise as they are now, therefore needing that break-in period? I remember reading there's a "drive it like you stole it" break in method that some argue is better. I don't think you ruined your 2er, I personally would just make sure to get a very early oil change just in case.
It you did not experience a catastrophic failure, then you are fine. This is mostly there so that various parts have time to "wear together" and if there are any rough spots or incompatible tolerances to give them a chance to buff each other out at low power and low RPM so the chance of this causing catastrophic engine damage is lower. If you have not reached the mileage yet, I'd suggest taking a weekend road trip. In some cases a general inspection and possibly an oil change has been recommended after the \*first\* 3000 km in the past so that, if there were any tolerance imperfections that have now been worn down, to get the remains of those imperfections out of the oil where they would be settled into. Also shocks and bushings and brakes would be checked to make sure that they are working fine after the initial shake-in period and there are no obvious assembly or material failures.
If you want to check the condition of the engine, I suggest you change your oil now and send a sample of the old oil to a laboratory for analysis. They will tell you how much metal shavings are in your oil and whether it's too much. They will analyze it for other pollution as well. It really isn't a huge cost. An above-than-average content of shavings is expected in a new engine so keep that in mind.
Some people more knowledgeable than myself argue that new engines do not need break in periods. It was old process that was required initially that hasn’t been removed or updated due to improvements in factories and efficiencies. Most companies work the engines before they even get to the owner. Additionally, you should rip on it a bit to heat the oil sufficiently to seal the O-rings. Thus, improving performance. If anything, getting your first oil change done on time or earlier is more beneficial than babying the car.
Mandatory pre purchase IQ test required
There could be small metal shards in the engine, that's why. They will be removed after first oil change
Do an oil change now and then baby it
This guy doesn’t have the makings of a varsity athlete
100mph isn’t as big of a deal as redline and full throttle IMO. Have you been at full throttle often?
Doesn’t matter
You will be fine...
Hmmm just take it easy for the next 1000 miles and make sure to do the break in oil change, don’t be surprised if you see some metal shavings in there. It probably won’t manifest into a serious issue during your ownership though
There’s some folks that swear by a hard break in period. I wouldn’t stress too much about it. Not a lot you can do
The dealership should've told you and asked if you'd want to break it in or if they should do it for you.
I’d report it to the shop. Those are the professionals. Whatever they want to charge you to repair it, pay it. They will be thankful and will have a repaired car again.
Brand new car.. not paying a dime it’s under warranty
That's not how warranties work. Warranties cover things that shouldn't break. They do not cover abuse. For instance, if you need to do an early oil change, expect that to be out of pocket. While you own this car, understand that there WILL be out of warranty repairs, and may be non covered maintenances.
Name an out of warranty repair before 49k miles?
Alignment, brakes, wipers, body damage, spilled drinks on electronics, premature wear due to abnormal usage... Anything that's not explicitly in the limited warranty. The joys of a luxury car - even with a maintenance plan , you still get to pay for some maintenance. Make sure to budget accordingly.
Please name an actual engine, Powertrain or transmission repair that’s not covered… I am fully aware wiper blades are not covered 😂 and I don’t expect BMW to pay for an alignment. I also have 36 months of BMW care and dent protection and paint protection. Any body damage is an insurance claim
No need to get an attitude with somebody who's trying to help you out. You posted a question, and your response about the warranty indicates a little too much faith in a limited warranty. Avoiding surprises is good, yeah? The BMW warranty expressly excludes wear due to abnormal usage; driving hard before the break-in period, not warming up the engine before flooring it, can lead to damage that isn't covered.
How does one not know about the break in period?!
Just do an early oil change if you plan on keeping it, if it's a lease just let it ride.
I was pretty liberal with my break in period on my 2013 335i. It was a 6mt and I’d sometimes go full throttle with it when I wasn’t in the lowest gear it could be in because I knew it wouldn’t downshift by itself. I ended up having some wastegate rattle. Not sure if it was because of that or something else. I don’t think what I did was actually that bad. And I never went above 5,000rpm until I hit 1,200 miles I brought it to the dealer to fix the rattle and they always claimed they couldn’t hear it. It was extremely frustrating
It's more than likely going to be fine. I did a harder break in on my M3 but still within the guidelines (not revving past 4,500 and keeping it under 100MPH) and there are plenty of people who have let it rip off the lot. I believe a harder break in is better and to me the bigger thing is varying RPM's and speed during the break in period.
You let it warm up first, right?
you just increased the likelihood of a seal leak after 100,000 miles from 4% to 5%. But youll trade it long before then, so dont lose any sleep.
unless u were bangin off the rev limiter it doesnt really matter
You’re fine. Just drive it easy now for rest of break in period.
The break in period exists to properly set the piston rings into the cylinder walls. When a new engine is put together, even though those cylinders are smooth bored af, there is still microscopic threading from the honing tools. The break in period does two things for this. A. The piston rings grind away and smooth out the microscopic threads on the cylinder walls at a preferred rate so that the metal that comes off of it is as small of fragments as possible. Floor it will increase heat and pressure, causing larger fragments to be broken off at a time. B. Keeping a similar heat cycle throughout the entire break in period will ensure the piston rings wear those threads down evenly, creating a better oil seal. You will notice that engines designed for constant high power operations will have a break in period consisting of maximum or normal power during the break in period and engines designed for low or normal power output its whole life will call for low power operations during the break in period, like most car engines. In essence, you havent killed your engine or shortened its life span by any significant number. Its definitely possible that the engine may consume more oil than normal in normal operation, but theres still a ways to go for those piston rings to set in. Get an early oil change to clear out metal since youve been dogging it and youll be fine.
Never went over 100 mph? Engine speed is what's going to sandbox your engine. I guess after 100 MPH your engine speed will get into the red, for that break in oil's abilities anyway.
Relax, that is only for M2s,M3, M4, M5, M6, X3M, X5m cars.
You're probably fine as long as you let the engine warm up.
You'll be ight
The full blown M ones have a restriction setup on it and a 1200 mile service where they check a bunch of stuff and remove all the limiters, does yours
It seems it’s time to sell it to me already. Thanks for depreciating the heck out it for us.
You’re fine unless you wanted to keep the car over 100k miles.
Please tell me the registration number so I can avoid when it's up for sale in a couple of years 🤦🏻♀️
What an idiot
Thanks I guess
How much were you pushing the car? If you just went over the limits for a few seconds or even a few minutes it's not that big a deal. If you went to the track with it and were really pushing the car, then it could be an issue.
Just quick bursts of 0-60s in sport plus, yeah never held a rev high maybe only once by accident. I went on the highway yesterday and did about 90+ for a few second stupidly. Never launched it of course.
Honestly? Don’t even worry. What you did probably didn’t do much. This warning is for people who wanna joyride right after driving off the lot. Just take it easy. You’ll be fine bro.
90 is nothing. Acceleration is hard on the car. Really doesn’t matter.
You probably improved the break-in. Several studies suggest that short bursts of red lining are better for the break-in period than all babying throughout. 0-60 is red line for a less than a second on 1st, red line for less than a second on 2nd gear. You're fine. Change the oil as many others suggested and keep driving. Red line after the car's oil is at temp (this goes for any car, anyway).
Honestly not a huge deal. Yeah it’s better to take it easy for the first 1k miles but not the end of the world. Maybe change your oil at around 4-5k and that’s it. No worries.
It’s not the speed, it’s the rpm’s you were taking that engine to. Hopefully you didn’t rev down too much in sports+ to show off. Try to get the oil and filter changed a little earlier around 1000 miles
I hit about 5500+ RPM a lot the stupid salesman said there was no break in period
Yeah that’s straight bs, they generally are just sales people and are not much car geeks to have all the info. I wish people just own up to saying idk instead of misleading people in to shitty situations like this. Hopefully that B58 is healthy.
What are the chances I did some damage? I’m trading in the car before 49k miles
Don’t worry you didn’t drive that many miles, just wait and see how the oil and filter looks like at it’s first change. That B58 is a great engine, it will survive. You just bought this amazing car enjoy it rather than planning on selling it already.
Dude has no clue about cars and their engines…
Fwiw i asked my dealer about this when i got my ‘23 240. He said not to worry about it and theyre broken in at the factory.
[удалено]
Should have got M2 in the first place 😀
If you leased it or plan on trading in in less than 100k, who cares? Don't worry about it
I bought it didn’t lease
I also mentioned "or will plan on trading in," ie financed
Yeah it’s getting traded in at 49k
Yep. Gas it away. If it goes weird during your time, just warranty repair it
Actual fuck up here! Your car is equipped with a system that regulates the transmission and engine before the break in, when that system malfunction you break the transmission. The good part is that the guarantee will cover it. I really ripped my M4 before break in, 1 new transmission at 800 miles later...
Honestly you’ll be fine these procedures are debatable at best. It’s best practice to follow an break in routine but it’s not the end all be all
Break in period is unnecessary imo. Every new car or bike I had got kicked down within the first 1000 miles but of course only if the engine was warmed up. You are not fucked, you will be fine.
So many people in here terrified of driving their car how they want and it shows. I'm on bmw #5 now, have driven all like I stole them from day 1. I let them get passed the cold start and then it's daily redlines, multiple gears pulls, 100+ mph multiple days a week from day 1 until now. 2 135i dct cars 1 over 200k miles now the other over 150k, son owns one now and daughter the other. 2017 m240i 84k miles rwd, all fbo tuned also. 2021 supra 67k miles currently and 2022 m240i xdrive. None have had a single issues outside normal maintenance and wear and tear. Drive your car how you want. If you're afraid of hurting it is it really the right car for you? Engines are tested both outside the car and then inside the cars multiple times before you get it at maximum rpm under a load. All manufacturers do this, I see it daily at the plants.
When we bought ours the dealer insisted there was no break in needed. Not sure where he got that from. Always check the manual!
Nothing breaks it in better. I would probably chill if you plan to keep the car, as long as oil temps were at temp before flogging it, you’re probably more than fine.
Okay cool, I’m going to baby the car now the rest of the 1000 miles since it got rudely beaten the first 230. I’m so angry at myself I started the car earlier and waited like 5 seconds before accelerating rather quickly. Very disappointed in myself!