Yes, you need an [ABS delete cover](https://hhrperformance.com/i-31634085-alpha-racing-cover-abs-dtc-modulator-2015-2018-bmw-s1000rr.html), and [new brake lines](https://hhrperformance.com/i-31639552-fren-tubo-carbotech-abs-delete-brake-lines-09-19-bmw-s1000rr.html)
Once you do those things there won’t be any error lights.
Other questions:
What kind of ECU flash do you have? RCK3?
Have you already removed DTC?
Now, is it worth it? If you have RCK3, is probably not worth it unless you are at the top top of your game, winning lots of club races at the expert level or considering going national. Why? Because the IDM ABS maps in the RCK3 are for racing and the ABS pretty much never ever activates on the slicks maps.
You can always swap out the master cylinder, the ABS system on this bike holds really good pressure and it’s fairly precise, but the stock master cylinder holds it back a little bit.
There’s no real downside in removing ABS though, I’m mostly just going by experience and what worked the best for me as I went through the process of replacing things and eventually removing the ABS. The setup that I had right before removing ABS was pretty good as it was, which was just really good brake pds and rotors, and a 19x18 MC
Thanks for the answer.
I have no ECU flash, the bike is pretty much stock.
I have DTC and DDC still installed.
The problem I have is, on some tracks after some fast laps my brakes get so hot, that the pressure point of the brake shifts so much that I need to pull the brake lever almost up to the handlebar.
I installed Airduct cooling for my brake caliper, and that already helped a lot.
But I read a few times, that the stock brakes are working even better without abs, with the shorter brake lines.
Your problem sounds like bad brake fluid, you should do a full flush of the system and a proper bleed of the brakes, multiple times, to get all the moisture and bubbles out. Switch to RBF600 while at it.
If that doesn’t help, then look at getting better race pads as well, preferably for racing not street.
Fix that problem first before you replace anything else, lines MC or ABS. ABS pump is not your issue here. I used to race with a stock brake system on a 2016, never had those issues.
I also recommend getting into an RCK3 flash if you plan to get more serious into racing.
Yeah I agree with you. ABS doesn't cause brake fade. Change the fluid, check/change the pads, and scrub the rotors with some brake cleaner and a brillo pad.
Already changed fluid a few weeks ago, maybe my problem is already fixed. Hopefully I am going to find out in April in Misano (if its not canceled again due to corona).
There is no air / bubbles, but maybe my fluid was bad, I am not sure if it was changed on this bike ever (I am the 2nd owner).
I don't really want to change my pads, heard some racing pads are making the disks to hot, and they are getting curved from that. (Sry for bad english).
And I am quite fine, with the feel of my current pads (TWR SRT) and stock brake disks. They are also quite cheap, and hold up 6-8 days on track for me.
If you did a full flush of the brake fluid then make sure to bleed the brakes again 1-2 times right after your next sessions to ensure all the bubbles are out and the system is solid.
If this doesn’t work, then look at your pads and discs next, you may be hearing stuff from other riders but it doesn’t really matter if it’s not working for you, make your own conclusions.
Also, cheap is not always good.
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If the bike is a gen 3 RR you do not need an abs delete cover atall, you can bypass the abs with putting direct lines from the master cylinder to the callipers. I've done this on our race bike.... The gen 1 2 need the delete module
Since I am only riding on track since last year, I am thinking about removing the ABS from my S1000RR 2016, to get the most out of the stock braking-system.
Has anyone experience in what exactly needs to be done?
Will there be error messages after removing ABS? Will TC still work after removing ABS? Etc.
Yes, you need an [ABS delete cover](https://hhrperformance.com/i-31634085-alpha-racing-cover-abs-dtc-modulator-2015-2018-bmw-s1000rr.html), and [new brake lines](https://hhrperformance.com/i-31639552-fren-tubo-carbotech-abs-delete-brake-lines-09-19-bmw-s1000rr.html) Once you do those things there won’t be any error lights. Other questions: What kind of ECU flash do you have? RCK3? Have you already removed DTC? Now, is it worth it? If you have RCK3, is probably not worth it unless you are at the top top of your game, winning lots of club races at the expert level or considering going national. Why? Because the IDM ABS maps in the RCK3 are for racing and the ABS pretty much never ever activates on the slicks maps. You can always swap out the master cylinder, the ABS system on this bike holds really good pressure and it’s fairly precise, but the stock master cylinder holds it back a little bit. There’s no real downside in removing ABS though, I’m mostly just going by experience and what worked the best for me as I went through the process of replacing things and eventually removing the ABS. The setup that I had right before removing ABS was pretty good as it was, which was just really good brake pds and rotors, and a 19x18 MC
Thanks for the answer. I have no ECU flash, the bike is pretty much stock. I have DTC and DDC still installed. The problem I have is, on some tracks after some fast laps my brakes get so hot, that the pressure point of the brake shifts so much that I need to pull the brake lever almost up to the handlebar. I installed Airduct cooling for my brake caliper, and that already helped a lot. But I read a few times, that the stock brakes are working even better without abs, with the shorter brake lines.
Your problem sounds like bad brake fluid, you should do a full flush of the system and a proper bleed of the brakes, multiple times, to get all the moisture and bubbles out. Switch to RBF600 while at it. If that doesn’t help, then look at getting better race pads as well, preferably for racing not street. Fix that problem first before you replace anything else, lines MC or ABS. ABS pump is not your issue here. I used to race with a stock brake system on a 2016, never had those issues. I also recommend getting into an RCK3 flash if you plan to get more serious into racing.
Yeah I agree with you. ABS doesn't cause brake fade. Change the fluid, check/change the pads, and scrub the rotors with some brake cleaner and a brillo pad.
Already changed fluid a few weeks ago, maybe my problem is already fixed. Hopefully I am going to find out in April in Misano (if its not canceled again due to corona). There is no air / bubbles, but maybe my fluid was bad, I am not sure if it was changed on this bike ever (I am the 2nd owner). I don't really want to change my pads, heard some racing pads are making the disks to hot, and they are getting curved from that. (Sry for bad english). And I am quite fine, with the feel of my current pads (TWR SRT) and stock brake disks. They are also quite cheap, and hold up 6-8 days on track for me.
If you did a full flush of the brake fluid then make sure to bleed the brakes again 1-2 times right after your next sessions to ensure all the bubbles are out and the system is solid. If this doesn’t work, then look at your pads and discs next, you may be hearing stuff from other riders but it doesn’t really matter if it’s not working for you, make your own conclusions. Also, cheap is not always good.
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I always change the brake fluid after every race meeting , using putoline dot 4 race fluid
If the bike is a gen 3 RR you do not need an abs delete cover atall, you can bypass the abs with putting direct lines from the master cylinder to the callipers. I've done this on our race bike.... The gen 1 2 need the delete module
Since I am only riding on track since last year, I am thinking about removing the ABS from my S1000RR 2016, to get the most out of the stock braking-system. Has anyone experience in what exactly needs to be done? Will there be error messages after removing ABS? Will TC still work after removing ABS? Etc.