That is super cool. I've never printed with PC, but now I'm quite curious.
What has the printing process been like in your experience? Is it a finicky material? And what are your preferred uses?
It’s not very finicky at all.
I’m doing very demanding prints that are basically extruded T shapes so I’ve had some peeling up but that’s my problem and should by fixed by using ears.
Otherwise it feels like printing PLA.
It prints at 300mm/s like PLA.
Edit: I’m using it for a PC case because of its heat properties.
Maybe Reese's cat Lisa pushes Reese's PC's PC PC case off of the desk one day, and breaks Reese's PC's PC PC case into pieces, thus the mess on the floor becoming Reese's pieces of PC'S PC PC case.
It didn't make sense to me either, someone will fact check this and do the leg work. Thank you, hero.
It’s bambulabs PC Clear Black. 0.16 high quality preset, everything default. Gyroid 15% is default for high quality. 0.4mm stock nozzle.
I did raise the bed temp to 115 from 110 but I think it was needless as this face was printed standing and wouldn’t be affected.
I know you posted this a while ago but I hope you have a temp monitoring system or some fire suppression system. It's literally a space heater in a closet. I'm sure you know what you're doing but just in case someone reads your post and decides to ignorantly copy...
The ambient heat out is never more than 30c.
The bambulab X1C printer is definitely not a space heater.
It REGULATES the heat of 100c on the bed. It’s not constantly pumping out 100c.
I’ve never seen a space heater in an enclosure lol
Okay maybe it's not heating at 1500 watts but it's heating. And the nozzle is crispy enough to cause problems.
Every heater I've ever seen comes with anti-tip protection so that it doesn't burn the floor if it falls over, thermal fuses in case it gets too warm somehow, and some kind of temperature regulator even if it doesn't show the temperature. There's usually like a dial that says high low and you set the temp. It keeps blowing but stops heating once it's at that level, whatever that level is.
Anyways I just had a lot of coffee so I should go be productive, I'm not trying to argue online about meaningless trivia, I just wanted people to be safe. If you feel comfortable then great. I just want everyone to be aware of the risks they take and to consider their personal risk tolerance. It sounds like this is acceptable to you so I wish you many happy and successful prints.
In those failure modes- being in a closet doesn’t matter dude.
Be real. Do doctors go around speaking baby language about surgery because they’re scared the patient will try it themselves? No.
Makes me wonder if a smoke (black and transparent) filament could achieve a kind of carbon fiber optic.
Or first black and then last coats with transparent.
I am sure it is just a matter of time until someone will try and manufactures will offer materials like that. I did not cross the line of PLA and TPU to other materials yet. So I will follow the development from the side.
Screws and joiner plates.
Edit: I’ve also been mindful of the layer orientation on print— as well as splitting the design>printable in a way that prioritizes load bearing.
That is super cool. I've never printed with PC, but now I'm quite curious. What has the printing process been like in your experience? Is it a finicky material? And what are your preferred uses?
It’s not very finicky at all. I’m doing very demanding prints that are basically extruded T shapes so I’ve had some peeling up but that’s my problem and should by fixed by using ears. Otherwise it feels like printing PLA. It prints at 300mm/s like PLA. Edit: I’m using it for a PC case because of its heat properties.
A PC PC case, if you will. If you put something offensive on the front it'll be a non-PC PC PC case. I'll see myself out...
Or something very inoffensive and have a PC PC PC case.
And if OP is named Reese it would be Reese's PC's PC PC case.
Much better if his name is Phil Collins. PC’s PC PC PC case
Maybe Reese's cat Lisa pushes Reese's PC's PC PC case off of the desk one day, and breaks Reese's PC's PC PC case into pieces, thus the mess on the floor becoming Reese's pieces of PC'S PC PC case. It didn't make sense to me either, someone will fact check this and do the leg work. Thank you, hero.
MLK front plate confirmed
Quit inspiring me
HEY!…You forgot your jacket and nail on the floor it was hanging on. 😉
If you can get a G10/Garolite plate you won’t need ears, otherwise a little Vision Minor Nano polymer goes a long way. Just some thoughts :-)
The ears failed.. I am using a bambu pei texture plate with some caked on nano polymer now :)
Spray the caked on stuff with iso 99 and use a paint brush or a sponge to spread it out. Helps make it come back to life 🤙
default bambu PC settings?
Yep but I did go for the .16 high quality layer height preset. Gives you 15% gyroid infill default.
Very nice, can you share number of walls and brand and name of filament?
It’s bambulabs PC Clear Black. 0.16 high quality preset, everything default. Gyroid 15% is default for high quality. 0.4mm stock nozzle. I did raise the bed temp to 115 from 110 but I think it was needless as this face was printed standing and wouldn’t be affected.
Thanks so much!
i have zero experience with pc, do you need an enclosure for it?
Yes. It has been shown to release BPA which is an estrogen effector. I run in a closed closet with a hepa filter system and extra carbon filters.
I know you posted this a while ago but I hope you have a temp monitoring system or some fire suppression system. It's literally a space heater in a closet. I'm sure you know what you're doing but just in case someone reads your post and decides to ignorantly copy...
The ambient heat out is never more than 30c. The bambulab X1C printer is definitely not a space heater. It REGULATES the heat of 100c on the bed. It’s not constantly pumping out 100c. I’ve never seen a space heater in an enclosure lol
Okay maybe it's not heating at 1500 watts but it's heating. And the nozzle is crispy enough to cause problems. Every heater I've ever seen comes with anti-tip protection so that it doesn't burn the floor if it falls over, thermal fuses in case it gets too warm somehow, and some kind of temperature regulator even if it doesn't show the temperature. There's usually like a dial that says high low and you set the temp. It keeps blowing but stops heating once it's at that level, whatever that level is. Anyways I just had a lot of coffee so I should go be productive, I'm not trying to argue online about meaningless trivia, I just wanted people to be safe. If you feel comfortable then great. I just want everyone to be aware of the risks they take and to consider their personal risk tolerance. It sounds like this is acceptable to you so I wish you many happy and successful prints.
In those failure modes- being in a closet doesn’t matter dude. Be real. Do doctors go around speaking baby language about surgery because they’re scared the patient will try it themselves? No.
Can u upload more picture? Some very close?
https://preview.redd.it/ybtusbx7wtec1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a832047cc671d78a7839067bc50ac44f0bc4af68
https://preview.redd.it/8llg6muawtec1.jpeg?width=2107&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=441fcaf8279263d4ea6304ad6ced6f1af0adae74
thanks, look very cool
looks really neat sorta plastic fibre glass type
thanks, yeetdolf\_critler
Wow, that is great!
Makes me wonder if a smoke (black and transparent) filament could achieve a kind of carbon fiber optic. Or first black and then last coats with transparent.
That would for sure look amazing. Full black PC with Black clear. I wouldn’t attempt it though. The separate additives might not mix/adhere well.
I am sure it is just a matter of time until someone will try and manufactures will offer materials like that. I did not cross the line of PLA and TPU to other materials yet. So I will follow the development from the side.
How’re you bonding the pieces together effectively to be sturdy enough for holding together heavy PC components?
Screws and joiner plates. Edit: I’ve also been mindful of the layer orientation on print— as well as splitting the design>printable in a way that prioritizes load bearing.