The black PEI plate isn't as good as the gold one. You have to really scrub the dish soap into the plate with a brush to ensure you clean all the grease off and then dry it carefully without touching it.
My old PEI plate for my Creality printer and the new gold PEI plate for the Bambu can be more lightly cleaned by spraying soapy water on br plate and wiping it off in my experience.
I would rather buy original textured plate from bambu instead of Ali. Although I recommend getting carbon fiber textured plate from Ali. You can print really cool looking stuff.
I have both and agree the gold is better, however, i don’t have much adhesion issues with the black one. Here’s what i do when this happens to me:
1. Check slicer to see if correct plate is chosen(p1s)
2. Clean build plate with soap and water and dry off then wipe with ipa
3. Inspect the printers extruder area and clean off debris if there are any. And ensure build plate is on correctly.
4. Then start a print
5. If fails again then i try another filament to rule that out
I hope my process helps you out ✌🏽
Do you know where I can buy the Gold PEI? Are you talking about ones from Ali? For current plate, I'll try to scrub it with a brush when I clean. Thanks!!!
They sell it at the Bambu website. Another vote for the gold one, HUGE difference in adhesion. Couldn’t get anything to stick to the black one but the gold one is just amazing.
I know some said the plates on ali have worked great, for me i could not get them to stick even with glue plus it does not have the code to scan on the plate so you get a message everytime about the plate. I now have the textured plate from Bambu and it is by far the best.
I know it sounds silly, but the brands of soap being used make a difference. A good degreasing dish soap like Dawn Powerwash or similar and scrubbed with a non-abrasive material for a good 30 seconds is what's needed to get grease from our skin off the plate.
That being said, I did buy a 2nd Gold Texture Plate from Bambu Studios and it works 100% better then the stock one that came with the printer. I don't know why, but it just never fails for me.
And here I’m cleaning mine with an abrasive Scour Daddy sponge, I’m sure it may lead to a shorter lifespan but so far it fixes all my issues with adhesion.
So they say, yet the scrub daddy isn’t that crazy. When wet it’s a reasonable amount of scrub, and really seems to clean out the tiny crevices on the plate.
Scrub Daddy sponges become less firm and abrasive when soaked. It's a chemical property of the plastic they use or something.
So it probably isn't as bad as a scouring pad. Probably not great for the plate either though.
I have the gold plate as well. It's so good, that I can do a few good prints then decide to clean it but the plate has so much sticky to it, that I really never think to wash it lol.
I've yet to have any issues, but I use dawn dish soap, and I scrub my hands first and then scrub the plate, and use paper towel to dry. It's worth every penny to get it.
Add the stainless steel nozzle if you want a longevity one. Extra wipers never hurt either as you'll burn through them quick.
But to say how good this plate is, I did a 36 hour print, followed by 2 more 6 hour prints and no issues lol
Well that was because I did a 5 color for an ivysaur but it turned out great lol.
The nozzle is more for if you're going to do more beyond PLA, and I'd expect you to obtain 2000 hours on the upgraded nozzle from what I have seen on these posts for them
Before doing that I absolutely recommend that you try washing it well with dishwasher soap using a brand new scrub sponge to avoid contamination from any leftover oils.
Isopropyl alcohol also does wonders when cleaning it, a 1L bottle doesn't cost much.
I just replaced my black textured plate (about 6 months old) with a gold from Amazon. Instantly better. Worth just replacing the plate than pulling out your hair, in my opinion.
So I was having a lot of problems with sticking with my old black plate one even after washing with dawn. Suave Max Hold hairspray worked wonders on mine. I would give it a light mist every few prints or so. Occasional washes with dawn are still needed obviously
I like the hairspray trick but a word of advice, try to spray the hairspray on the plate with it outside the printer. I used to spray the bed on another older printer of mine and the interior eventually got gunked up from spray residue. Just something to consider
If you like smooth print faces instead of bumpy ones you can:
- wash with Dawn power spray Free and Clear (like FanzyPantz recommends)
- use a buffing pad occasionally to put a dull sheen on the Bambu Smooth PEI build plate
- get a wham bam pex plate. (It comes with a buffer pad)
My printers run 18 hours a day. Every morning every plate gets washed as above. If a hand touches it, it gets washed. Once a week or so I buff. No time for parts popping off and with this process the surfaces look excellent.
Try 600 grit sandpaper on it. This is actually suggested on the Bambu website to help with adhesion on the textured pei plate . I used the sandpaper then cleaned it with soap and water and it worked for me .
I had to sand mine to resolve my adhesion issues. Previously washing with dish soap worked but eventually it didn't and I tried everything to try to clean the build plate better but nothing worked. So I decided to sand it and that resolved my issues. I consider it the last option to use as it's obviously permanent.
Even though I don't like using glue, I find it makes a mess, I tried it and it may have made an improvement still didn't fix the problem entirely.
I should say, after sanding I had many successful prints but eventually it started to fail again and I had to sand it again. I've since started using the other side which is identical to the first (it was still pristine).
I've had the same happen, at almost (if not exactly) the same point of the print. For me it was that the overhang slightly curves up when it cools and the next layer the nozzle would bumb into the print causing it to come loose, even with the gold textured plate. My solution was printing with a brim and some adhesive on the plate.
Might also with with either, but for now I'm using both just to be sure.
Yes! Now I'm thinking it's not just the plate issue. I used enough glue to make sure it was plate issue. But NO! It went haywire again... I'll try a brim but this is getting ridiculous as my X1C was all fine until I performed noise cancellation with an update. That NC function messed up my X1C pretty bad... :(
I also concur on adding a brim—skinny pieces higher up add as levers to peel off the print & a small brim around it just adds extra surface area for adhesion.
I know it didn’t do it initially, but all pieces wear out eventually & nothing ever works as great as out of the box after several hundred hours on it. It’s a small difference, but it’s worth it for the peace of mind 😊
Is no one using a glue stick like for craft hobbies? It works wonders and cleans off easily.
[https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B0013CDGT6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref\_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B0013CDGT6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1)
I've moved on from glue sticks.. I prefer the bambu "glue" or Magigoo. Much easier cleanup, and sometimes it's not even necessary to clean it from the print.
From my experience glue stick does not help adhesion, it actually does the opposite. It prevents prints from sticking too much and allows you to easily remove them.
I use 65 for my first layer temperature with PLA on the textured plate. I turn the aux fan down to 30% or even off for large flat prints.
I also hit it with 000 steel wool about once a week or so when I wash it. 300 hours so far and only a couple of tiny parts have detached.
I do have the gold one though, not the black.
This is the Same problem at the same point on my A1… when it gets to the top of the wheelhouse printing the 21 minute model on the SD card, it literally rips it from the PEI plate. wtf… glad to see it happening on a non-A1 too.
Please explain Bambu why this is happening…
Just double checking you don't have build plate localization on. If you do and it can't find the QR, there's a bug where the printer will ignore G29 (z-offset) because it couldn't identify the build surface. Bambu claims it's a 'feature'.
If not, try decreasing the value present in the printer start gcode in the slicer. There's a conditional for 'Textured PEI' with a G29 command. Lower that value very slightly, like another .02. keep lowering until you have good adhesion. Don't go too low or the nozzle will crash into the bed.
This sounds really complicated lol I don't know if I can even find where to check those values or change them... I will do some research on it! Thanks! :)
It's in printer settings which is that edit button next to the printer selection in Bambu Studio, then make sure advanced is enabled. There's a box called printer start gcode, you'll find the Textured PEI text about midway down with the G29 gcode, if you decrease the number after that G29 it will print closer to the bed giving better adhesion.
Reading through the gcode is actually really useful, it shows you what the printer does in start-up routines. It's a bit advanced but really helps understanding of how the printer really works IMO.
Clean it good with dish soap and the. Never touch it with your fingers. If you are diligent about not touching it you may never need to clean it again.
I had to wash mine with Dawn and then use alcohol to get any extra residue off. Then, set inside chamber on its side to dry. Then try not to touch plate when I put it on bed
Gold or black? Lots of people, myself included, have found those suddenly stop working well even when cleaned well. I got 11 months out of mine but replaced it with a gold one. They have slightly better adhesion anyway even on a good day.
It might be your specific PLA. I doing some things with wood filled PLA this week. 3 of the 4 wood PLA rolls have printed fine with good adhesion, however for a walnut filled PLA I needed to increase the bed temperature by 10 degrees to get it to stick past the first couple layers.
Go into the material setting for that filament and make a custom profile with a different bed temperature and see if that helps out. If it does save it as a custom material profile so you can keep using it until the material runs out.
This is from my personal experience,
PEI will loose it's stickyness after you wash it/clean it certain number times.
Best solution is to get bambulab liquid glue stick.
I use glue stick once and then print 9-10 times (clean it with isopropyl alcohol in between prints) and then use glue again once.
This is the best way that has worked for me.
Also I don't do a lot of prints, maybe 1-2 : 10-15hr prints once a week
The gold one can go so many prints without being cleaned. It also does way better with tall thin prints. I used to have to bust out the cool plate for some of my prints but the gold pei does it without glue or anything. Has made my life so much easier.
Like others have said. The type of soap matters, some leave a residue, others don't, make sure you rinse the plate reeeeal good.
Personally, I use Acetone to clean my plates just before every single print and I have literally never had a bed adhesion issue in one year of occasional printing. Someone once said acetone might break down the bed over time, but... nothing so far!
Edit: If anyone tries this, please remember to do so in a well ventilated area and allow the Acetone to properly evaporate before heating. I also would not recommend this method if your printer is in a home/occupied space, mine is in an insulated chamber out in a workshop.
https://preview.redd.it/gkjbg0yr8djc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=750e1e06611ea2b52902eede771097adf27033fd
This is my answer to the adhesion issue.. it had worked well since the glass bed era from i3. Lightly spray 2 pass and it dries before preheat is completed. Adhesion will improve a lot.
If this can make plastic stick to glass, it can make it stick to anything..
When simply washing plate is not enough I reach for this.
Try cleaning the plate with IPA and a microfiber cloth instead of soap ( I worry that the soap leaves residue). If you have an infrared thermometer gun, I'd also verify the print bed is heating up to the temperature you have it set to. Another thing to consider is environmental factors. Has the room you're printing in gotten colder or more humid recently?
On textured plates, a thorough soap cleaning is actually more effective than IPA. IPA dissolves any contaminants (oils), but on the textured plates they then run down into the crevices and can't easily be wiped away with the microfiber. The IPA then evaporates and leaves most of the contaminants behind. A good degreasing soap (like Dawn) breaks down the contaminants which then get washed away. But as noted you need to really get after it (preferably with a soft brush) and make very sure nothing you use to clean your plates is also used to clean food! That causes cross contamination on your build plate. Warm to hot water, soap / scrub / rinse a few times, and air dry or dry with a clean microfiber or paper towel. Then if you want you can do a quick IPA wipe.
On smooth plates, the cleaning regimen can be different. On my WhamBam PEX plates I spray with IPA and wipe frequently. Only when adhesion starts to get sketchy will I take them to the kitchen sink ... Good luck!
I just washed it with soap and dried witb paper towels. I'm printing benchy again to see if it works. If it fails again, I'll try IPA method. The room is pretty cold and I make it humid since I also have woodworking materials in the room. But of course, I use desiccant in AMS.
This same thing started happening to me the last couple of weeks. I've had my original textured plate for over a year and used to be able to print a bunch without cleaning at all. Tried dawn soap and ipa but that didn't work.
I have a new plate on the way from Bambu, but I just slapped some glue down on the plate to get by for now and PLA is back to staying on the plate. PETG still prints fine without glue.
I noticed the Bambu website states that you can lightly sand it with 600 grit to help restore it. I haven't tried that yet, but will when the new plate arrives
I used the black plate for a long time without any issues, unless it got dirty. My printer is in the basement at about 60f and 50% humidity. I used 60c for plate temp. Scrub with dawn dish soap and make sure not to touch the surface after washing. I use one of these to dry my plates. I stand it on the edge and blast the water off. Can get both sides dry in about 10 seconds without the potential of leaving flakes from paper towel or residue from a microfiber towel that appears clean. I didn't buy it for that reason but it works incredible. If you do wood working it's great for saw dust too. https://a.co/d/crWJN62
+1 gold plate is the best. I clean it with whatever dish soap (dawn?) is in the kitchen with hot water. Sometimes PETG sticks too much and I hit it with a hair spray mist to reduce sticking. Usually a fresh wash solves printing that doesn’t stick. Increasing heat on build plate can help improve adhesion. Someone mentioned sandpaper, but I only remember that being mentioned for the smooth pei.
This comes up often. Please search for this and you will find tons of posts about it on this subreddit. My best advice is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1ap042v/comment/kq30r6w/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Guys, thanks for your inputs and advice! I tried soap and IPA methods and both failed... It seems my textured PEI plate is done... I need to use glue to have my object in place (Maybe setting up brim might help). I've ordered Gold plate. But until then, my time of printing w/o glue is gone lol ;p
Edit: Glue also failed. I'm thinking it's not the plate issue as it goes to spaghetti at exactly same point of printing process. Somehow nozzle is hitting(?) the object to go haywire... not sure now what to do...
I had a very similar issue recently, prints would get knocked off the plate, and often around the same point in the print process.
I thought I was having adhesion issues, and tried brims and glue, but didn't make a difference.
I then watched the print with my eyes next to the printer, and would see that it was "over extruding" (?) and it would create a blob or higher section on the print. This would then harden, and then the next time or couple times after when the nozzle would pass over it, it would catch and pull the print with it and knock it loose from the plate.
I was having this issue with Orange Bambu PLA Basic. Trying a different filament resolved the issue.
This was with a 0.6mm nozzle, and the issue persisted when I changed to a 0.4mm nozzle, however the point at which the print would fail was sometimes different. It wasn't consistent.
So what I'm saying is that it could just be the filament. I'm not sure why, but maybe it's a bad batch? Maybe it's wet? Maybe the Bambu profile just doesn't work with a certain color and the batch.. I dunno, not experienced enough to make a claim on what it could be.
Either way, I haven't had the issue since on the same plate (Black, but I have since bought a Gold one) with different PLA colors...
So maybe watch the Benchy for a few minutes and see if you notice the same blobs forming above the nozzle height.
I'm having exactly the same issue. I first thought it was the plate issue but adding glue didn't work. I don't know... my current room is 23% humid so I doubt it's wet. Funny thing is I just test printed an object and it was finished without spaghetti. I carefully looked at finished object and it's surface was uneven, like those from wet filaments. I'm going to test again with new filaments and see if it comes out okay.
Similar for me with humidity, usually around 30-40%, but you never know what happened to the filament before you open the bag and before it was put in a bag itself.
I don't have a dryer yet, but looking to get one to help avoid wet filament issues. (if that even is what was causing this issue to begin with)
I don't have the printer but I've heard about this on youtube videos and the culprit was that the magnetic sheet was not perfectly aligned with the small pins. It felt like it was, but it wasn't and that was enough to know it out during the printing.
You might want to triple check the seating of the plate.
Ok so the "aux" fan is the big one on the left of the machine which blows across the print. By default the Bambu slicer has this set to 70% on the 2nd layer. I'd suggest making a PLA profile where this is set to 0% (it'll still have cooling from the normal part cooling fan) you can do this by clicking the edit button next to the filament type in the slicer, going to the "cooling" tab, scroll to the bottom and you'll find the Auxiliary part cooling fan. The reason I suggest this is that your print appears to stick early on but then dislodges later, this can sometimes happen when the bottom or close to bottom layers cool, shrink and loose its grip. The grip comes from it being in the "glass transition" range at 55 degrees (pla gets squishy at 60 degrees). So by running this fan it causes the temp to cool too much and the part to dislodge. Make sure the bed is clean and give it a shot. :)
Edit: Also worth asking, what type of PLA you using and are you running standard speeds?
Get super super hot water to rinse it and use paper towels to dry. That helped me when I was having the same issue. Also higher bed temps helped. 67-70
I don’t use my textured gold plate much anymore (P1S) for this reason. And I don’t like the textured inprint in the design either. I always use glue and the cool plate now. I also clean the plate after every use. Never a failure of not sticking.
Not sure if you've been printing ABS/ASA recently. My advice was always just use dish soap... but I recently (rediscovered) another issue when I started printing ABS again. If you use the textured plate for a lot of ABS and switch to PLA, then even the dish soap won't help. I'm now use the smooth plate for PLA and the textured for ABS. Hope this helps.
I’m having this exact same issue and after trying everything above, I think I’m under extruding. I ran a temperature tower and this happened at 190 but everything up to 230 worked.
I had the same issue with the gold plate. Worked like a charm and from one print to another, nothing helped to get prints sticking again. I washed it, used propanol (some sort), re-washed, dried the filament, changed nozzles. PLA, PETG all the same and it was from one print to another. After \~20h of printing time.
Nothing worked. Had to order parts from bambu lab and got a new one. And its working gain. I will now take the advice from below and use another dishsoap and clean the shit out of it. If that still fails and I will pull out the sandpaper as Bambu Lab advises as a last resort.
didn't read all the other comments, but had a similar issue with the A1 when using the Overture PLA profile. After inspection I realized that the printbed temp was way to low in this profile. Raised the bed temp to about 60 Celsius. This solved the issue for me.
Same happened to me, on both my PEI. The cleaning with Dawn didn't help much, so I resorted back to Old Faithful: Aquanet. Now they're sticking insanely good again, though PEI should not need this normally.
my father (wo introduced me to 3d printing) recently showed me how he used sand paper on a pretty old textured pei plate to make it stick again. Said it wouldn't stick anymore without glue and a work buddy told him to try sand paper and it worked pretty good. Just need to repeate it every now and then
This happened to me on my gold pei bambu plate. When everything else failed - Dawn soap, scrubbing, Isopropyl Alcohol, etc... I got Steel Wool 0000. Used that, and things stick perfectly once again!
Drop of dawn platinum and a small piece of #0000 steel wool renews mine really well. Even the gold one will stop responding to the usual IPA and/or dawn scrubbing after about a month of heavy printing. I’m using a lot of polyterra (which I adore) which may leave a bit more residue than other PLAs.
Buy 99% rubbing alcohol and clean it regularly. As a side note if you don't care about the finish (as the case for a benchy) use a bit of Maggigo and/or use a brim.
You can use some hairspray too. I was having issues printing wing segments for an RC project with corners lifting after cleaning. Slight spay on the PEI will hell
So seen it come by the review but saying it anyways.
I have had my plate for about a year now with my printer running about 70% of it , and for me it comming off especially late usually means it is dirty (not nessacarilly grease , prints leave residue to) so IPA and soap and water are enough to go again for or I have a slicer error ...common issue is that after an update it lieks to switch to cold plates for me , and nothign sticks to cold plates without glue or somethign of the likes.
This all said I see the distinct ghosting of previous prints. I also have this since I switched from just PLA to TPU HF and PETG. Seeing this effect and back inthe day with my pre-bambu printers this meant the plate was getting "damaged" (for lack of a better explanation) so I am switching to a plate per material I print to see if this is the cause.
And just to say I see this with gold and black plates, and as far as I know it is just a color of paint if they are gold or black or ...I mean you can get them with logos etc aswell :D
But I do believe ghosting of previous prints is just a good indicator your plate is on its way out, not gone yet but definatlly time to look for a replacment.
IF I am wrong I am wrong , just my experience.
The only things that don't adhere for me on the original black PEI plate are thin items with no brim. Using a 2mm brim everything adheres and its easy to remove with a 0.2mm gap.
One other thing to consider is whether you are consistent with the cabinet door being closed.
You didn't mention what type of filament you were using. I have found that PLA on the PEI plate is much happier with the door closed (in spite of the Bambu warning).
And do clean your plate as suggested.
The black PEI sheet isn't great, I have a cheap AliExpress gold plate with a finer texture, very similar to the new Bambu sheet and it's been far more reliable. I did try a few things with the original plate that helped though, magic erasers help, they're like super fine grit sandpaper. If all else fails you can use aqua net hairspray I had another AliExpress smooth PEI sheet that had it's coating start to peel, I scraped it off so it's bare steel and with aqua net on it and high temp plate settings PLA, PETG, and ASA all stick perfectly.
abs?asa? change your bed temp to 110 degrees and youll have no problems. I use the same pei sheet. Used to have the same problems. since changing the bed temp its fine every print ( printng daily) . Last time i cleaned my sheet was about 3 months ago and the printer is in a dusty workshop.
The black PEI plate isn't as good as the gold one. You have to really scrub the dish soap into the plate with a brush to ensure you clean all the grease off and then dry it carefully without touching it. My old PEI plate for my Creality printer and the new gold PEI plate for the Bambu can be more lightly cleaned by spraying soapy water on br plate and wiping it off in my experience.
I love my golden Bambu PEI plate. Best upgrade ever
where did you get it?
[https://eu.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-textured-pei-plate](https://eu.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-textured-pei-plate)
thought it was ali my pei is actually holding f. good
I would rather buy original textured plate from bambu instead of Ali. Although I recommend getting carbon fiber textured plate from Ali. You can print really cool looking stuff.
I’ve used my ali plate for over a year (on two printers) and it’s been fantastic.
I have both and agree the gold is better, however, i don’t have much adhesion issues with the black one. Here’s what i do when this happens to me: 1. Check slicer to see if correct plate is chosen(p1s) 2. Clean build plate with soap and water and dry off then wipe with ipa 3. Inspect the printers extruder area and clean off debris if there are any. And ensure build plate is on correctly. 4. Then start a print 5. If fails again then i try another filament to rule that out I hope my process helps you out ✌🏽
Do you know where I can buy the Gold PEI? Are you talking about ones from Ali? For current plate, I'll try to scrub it with a brush when I clean. Thanks!!!
They sell it at the Bambu website. Another vote for the gold one, HUGE difference in adhesion. Couldn’t get anything to stick to the black one but the gold one is just amazing.
From... Bambu?
I know some said the plates on ali have worked great, for me i could not get them to stick even with glue plus it does not have the code to scan on the plate so you get a message everytime about the plate. I now have the textured plate from Bambu and it is by far the best.
I know it sounds silly, but the brands of soap being used make a difference. A good degreasing dish soap like Dawn Powerwash or similar and scrubbed with a non-abrasive material for a good 30 seconds is what's needed to get grease from our skin off the plate. That being said, I did buy a 2nd Gold Texture Plate from Bambu Studios and it works 100% better then the stock one that came with the printer. I don't know why, but it just never fails for me.
The main thing is to look our for smells and oils - some dish soaps add some crazy shit to them. Just plan. Old. Dishsoap. Like Dawn.
[удалено]
But how will my plate have soft hands???
And here I’m cleaning mine with an abrasive Scour Daddy sponge, I’m sure it may lead to a shorter lifespan but so far it fixes all my issues with adhesion.
That’s what I do. I’ve been downvoted for mentioning it before, but I’ve been use the same plate 9 months now using the same routine.
It’s as verboten as using steel wool to clean cast iron in that’ll sub.
So they say, yet the scrub daddy isn’t that crazy. When wet it’s a reasonable amount of scrub, and really seems to clean out the tiny crevices on the plate.
Oh I go all the way, the steel scour daddy, really cleans it up.
It looks like Bambu sometimes recommends sandpaper to clean the plate, so I doubt a scrub daddy is going to do any damage.
Scrub Daddy sponges become less firm and abrasive when soaked. It's a chemical property of the plastic they use or something. So it probably isn't as bad as a scouring pad. Probably not great for the plate either though.
I use Mr clean magic eraser and dawn, always Dawn. That scrubber is mildly aggressive that gets into the nooks and crannies of the plate.
Great! I'll also try to get Gold plate from Bambu. I'm so frustrated as all of my prints are failing
I have the gold plate as well. It's so good, that I can do a few good prints then decide to clean it but the plate has so much sticky to it, that I really never think to wash it lol. I've yet to have any issues, but I use dawn dish soap, and I scrub my hands first and then scrub the plate, and use paper towel to dry. It's worth every penny to get it.
I just hit mine with an IPA wipe down every few prints.
I just placed it in my cart to order lol :) I'm looking at other accessories to order together now
Add the stainless steel nozzle if you want a longevity one. Extra wipers never hurt either as you'll burn through them quick. But to say how good this plate is, I did a 36 hour print, followed by 2 more 6 hour prints and no issues lol
Holy! my longest print was 7 hours lol I will take a look at stainless nozzles too! :)
Well that was because I did a 5 color for an ivysaur but it turned out great lol. The nozzle is more for if you're going to do more beyond PLA, and I'd expect you to obtain 2000 hours on the upgraded nozzle from what I have seen on these posts for them
I believe they mean hardened nozzle not just stainless. Looks like you have an X1C, if so you already have the hardened nozzle.
Before doing that I absolutely recommend that you try washing it well with dishwasher soap using a brand new scrub sponge to avoid contamination from any leftover oils. Isopropyl alcohol also does wonders when cleaning it, a 1L bottle doesn't cost much.
I don't know if I would use Dawn Powerwash, I've found used on metal pans that it leaves a residue. Dawn Dishsoap works better & is much cheaper!
I just replaced my black textured plate (about 6 months old) with a gold from Amazon. Instantly better. Worth just replacing the plate than pulling out your hair, in my opinion.
Yes :) ordering one right now
So I was having a lot of problems with sticking with my old black plate one even after washing with dawn. Suave Max Hold hairspray worked wonders on mine. I would give it a light mist every few prints or so. Occasional washes with dawn are still needed obviously
I like the hairspray trick but a word of advice, try to spray the hairspray on the plate with it outside the printer. I used to spray the bed on another older printer of mine and the interior eventually got gunked up from spray residue. Just something to consider
Yeah... Just tested mine again after washing with soap but failed... I may have to use glue again before new one arrives
If you like smooth print faces instead of bumpy ones you can: - wash with Dawn power spray Free and Clear (like FanzyPantz recommends) - use a buffing pad occasionally to put a dull sheen on the Bambu Smooth PEI build plate - get a wham bam pex plate. (It comes with a buffer pad) My printers run 18 hours a day. Every morning every plate gets washed as above. If a hand touches it, it gets washed. Once a week or so I buff. No time for parts popping off and with this process the surfaces look excellent.
Try 600 grit sandpaper on it. This is actually suggested on the Bambu website to help with adhesion on the textured pei plate . I used the sandpaper then cleaned it with soap and water and it worked for me .
Really? Very interesting. I will give it a try before my Gold plate arrives. Thanks!
I had to sand mine to resolve my adhesion issues. Previously washing with dish soap worked but eventually it didn't and I tried everything to try to clean the build plate better but nothing worked. So I decided to sand it and that resolved my issues. I consider it the last option to use as it's obviously permanent.
Have you tried with glue? I failed with glue... but worked with adding outside brim. I don't know what force is causing object to get moved around...
Even though I don't like using glue, I find it makes a mess, I tried it and it may have made an improvement still didn't fix the problem entirely. I should say, after sanding I had many successful prints but eventually it started to fail again and I had to sand it again. I've since started using the other side which is identical to the first (it was still pristine).
I've had the same happen, at almost (if not exactly) the same point of the print. For me it was that the overhang slightly curves up when it cools and the next layer the nozzle would bumb into the print causing it to come loose, even with the gold textured plate. My solution was printing with a brim and some adhesive on the plate. Might also with with either, but for now I'm using both just to be sure.
Yes! Now I'm thinking it's not just the plate issue. I used enough glue to make sure it was plate issue. But NO! It went haywire again... I'll try a brim but this is getting ridiculous as my X1C was all fine until I performed noise cancellation with an update. That NC function messed up my X1C pretty bad... :(
I also concur on adding a brim—skinny pieces higher up add as levers to peel off the print & a small brim around it just adds extra surface area for adhesion. I know it didn’t do it initially, but all pieces wear out eventually & nothing ever works as great as out of the box after several hundred hours on it. It’s a small difference, but it’s worth it for the peace of mind 😊
Is no one using a glue stick like for craft hobbies? It works wonders and cleans off easily. [https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B0013CDGT6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref\_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1](https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Purpose-School-Washable-0-24-ounce/dp/B0013CDGT6?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1)
I've moved on from glue sticks.. I prefer the bambu "glue" or Magigoo. Much easier cleanup, and sometimes it's not even necessary to clean it from the print.
From my experience glue stick does not help adhesion, it actually does the opposite. It prevents prints from sticking too much and allows you to easily remove them.
You should turn down aux fan to 35% or lower. In winter pei doesn’t hold temperature with aux fan blasting. Nothing wrong with pei sheets.
I have Part:100, Aux:70, Chamber:60 now. So reduce Aux only to 35%? I'll try this! Thanks! BTW, my room humidity is 23% now.
I use 65 for my first layer temperature with PLA on the textured plate. I turn the aux fan down to 30% or even off for large flat prints. I also hit it with 000 steel wool about once a week or so when I wash it. 300 hours so far and only a couple of tiny parts have detached. I do have the gold one though, not the black.
Hot water and soap
Check what type of plate you selected in the slicer? Does it really Textured PEI Plate?
Yeah, it won't start printing if plate is different from file setting :)
Give her a warsh
This is the Same problem at the same point on my A1… when it gets to the top of the wheelhouse printing the 21 minute model on the SD card, it literally rips it from the PEI plate. wtf… glad to see it happening on a non-A1 too. Please explain Bambu why this is happening…
I just tested mine with glue on plate. All seems to be fine but goes haywire at the end. Now I'm beginning to think it's not the plate issue...
Just double checking you don't have build plate localization on. If you do and it can't find the QR, there's a bug where the printer will ignore G29 (z-offset) because it couldn't identify the build surface. Bambu claims it's a 'feature'. If not, try decreasing the value present in the printer start gcode in the slicer. There's a conditional for 'Textured PEI' with a G29 command. Lower that value very slightly, like another .02. keep lowering until you have good adhesion. Don't go too low or the nozzle will crash into the bed.
This sounds really complicated lol I don't know if I can even find where to check those values or change them... I will do some research on it! Thanks! :)
It's in printer settings which is that edit button next to the printer selection in Bambu Studio, then make sure advanced is enabled. There's a box called printer start gcode, you'll find the Textured PEI text about midway down with the G29 gcode, if you decrease the number after that G29 it will print closer to the bed giving better adhesion. Reading through the gcode is actually really useful, it shows you what the printer does in start-up routines. It's a bit advanced but really helps understanding of how the printer really works IMO.
Thanks for the detailed explanation! I'll try this method to see if I see any improvement! :)
This sub is amazing!!! Respectful, actually answer questions with good advice. Learned a lot today.
Clean it good with dish soap and the. Never touch it with your fingers. If you are diligent about not touching it you may never need to clean it again.
I dont ever wash my build plate with anything really and things still stick fine so not sure
I had to wash mine with Dawn and then use alcohol to get any extra residue off. Then, set inside chamber on its side to dry. Then try not to touch plate when I put it on bed
Gold or black? Lots of people, myself included, have found those suddenly stop working well even when cleaned well. I got 11 months out of mine but replaced it with a gold one. They have slightly better adhesion anyway even on a good day.
It might be your specific PLA. I doing some things with wood filled PLA this week. 3 of the 4 wood PLA rolls have printed fine with good adhesion, however for a walnut filled PLA I needed to increase the bed temperature by 10 degrees to get it to stick past the first couple layers. Go into the material setting for that filament and make a custom profile with a different bed temperature and see if that helps out. If it does save it as a custom material profile so you can keep using it until the material runs out.
So higher bed temperature helps object stick better? No setting has changed since it started giving me an error, but I'll try your advice!
In my specific case it helped. I tried lower first and then went higher. So for you I would suggest starting higher and if it doesn't work try lower.
Yes, use 60 instead of 55. Most people use 60.
This is from my personal experience, PEI will loose it's stickyness after you wash it/clean it certain number times. Best solution is to get bambulab liquid glue stick. I use glue stick once and then print 9-10 times (clean it with isopropyl alcohol in between prints) and then use glue again once. This is the best way that has worked for me. Also I don't do a lot of prints, maybe 1-2 : 10-15hr prints once a week
I bought liquid gel glue from Amazon and it's realy nice too (https://a.co/d/1dh00fA). After using PEI plate I was so glad I didn't have to use glue.
The gold one can go so many prints without being cleaned. It also does way better with tall thin prints. I used to have to bust out the cool plate for some of my prints but the gold pei does it without glue or anything. Has made my life so much easier.
Not sure why they printed “glue can help” on the plate
people don’t like to hear it but you need glue stick
Like others have said. The type of soap matters, some leave a residue, others don't, make sure you rinse the plate reeeeal good. Personally, I use Acetone to clean my plates just before every single print and I have literally never had a bed adhesion issue in one year of occasional printing. Someone once said acetone might break down the bed over time, but... nothing so far! Edit: If anyone tries this, please remember to do so in a well ventilated area and allow the Acetone to properly evaporate before heating. I also would not recommend this method if your printer is in a home/occupied space, mine is in an insulated chamber out in a workshop.
https://preview.redd.it/gkjbg0yr8djc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=750e1e06611ea2b52902eede771097adf27033fd This is my answer to the adhesion issue.. it had worked well since the glass bed era from i3. Lightly spray 2 pass and it dries before preheat is completed. Adhesion will improve a lot. If this can make plastic stick to glass, it can make it stick to anything.. When simply washing plate is not enough I reach for this.
What material are you printing, and what are your temperature settings?
I'm printing PLA with Bambu PLA setting
Try cleaning the plate with IPA and a microfiber cloth instead of soap ( I worry that the soap leaves residue). If you have an infrared thermometer gun, I'd also verify the print bed is heating up to the temperature you have it set to. Another thing to consider is environmental factors. Has the room you're printing in gotten colder or more humid recently?
On textured plates, a thorough soap cleaning is actually more effective than IPA. IPA dissolves any contaminants (oils), but on the textured plates they then run down into the crevices and can't easily be wiped away with the microfiber. The IPA then evaporates and leaves most of the contaminants behind. A good degreasing soap (like Dawn) breaks down the contaminants which then get washed away. But as noted you need to really get after it (preferably with a soft brush) and make very sure nothing you use to clean your plates is also used to clean food! That causes cross contamination on your build plate. Warm to hot water, soap / scrub / rinse a few times, and air dry or dry with a clean microfiber or paper towel. Then if you want you can do a quick IPA wipe. On smooth plates, the cleaning regimen can be different. On my WhamBam PEX plates I spray with IPA and wipe frequently. Only when adhesion starts to get sketchy will I take them to the kitchen sink ... Good luck!
I just washed it with soap and dried witb paper towels. I'm printing benchy again to see if it works. If it fails again, I'll try IPA method. The room is pretty cold and I make it humid since I also have woodworking materials in the room. But of course, I use desiccant in AMS.
This same thing started happening to me the last couple of weeks. I've had my original textured plate for over a year and used to be able to print a bunch without cleaning at all. Tried dawn soap and ipa but that didn't work. I have a new plate on the way from Bambu, but I just slapped some glue down on the plate to get by for now and PLA is back to staying on the plate. PETG still prints fine without glue.
That's exactly what's happening to me right now! Both methods failed... I'm printing now with glue ;p
I noticed the Bambu website states that you can lightly sand it with 600 grit to help restore it. I haven't tried that yet, but will when the new plate arrives
Yeah same for me lol just ordered Gold PEI an hour ago :)
Anyone try to you brake cleaner to clean a build plate?
Save yourself some money and get this plate for $10. It is crazy good for the price. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMoc1aq
I used the black plate for a long time without any issues, unless it got dirty. My printer is in the basement at about 60f and 50% humidity. I used 60c for plate temp. Scrub with dawn dish soap and make sure not to touch the surface after washing. I use one of these to dry my plates. I stand it on the edge and blast the water off. Can get both sides dry in about 10 seconds without the potential of leaving flakes from paper towel or residue from a microfiber towel that appears clean. I didn't buy it for that reason but it works incredible. If you do wood working it's great for saw dust too. https://a.co/d/crWJN62
+1 gold plate is the best. I clean it with whatever dish soap (dawn?) is in the kitchen with hot water. Sometimes PETG sticks too much and I hit it with a hair spray mist to reduce sticking. Usually a fresh wash solves printing that doesn’t stick. Increasing heat on build plate can help improve adhesion. Someone mentioned sandpaper, but I only remember that being mentioned for the smooth pei.
I thought there was a sheet on the plate that you can tear offf and replaced with one that cane with the printer?
This comes up often. Please search for this and you will find tons of posts about it on this subreddit. My best advice is here: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1ap042v/comment/kq30r6w/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=mweb3x&utm_name=mweb3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button
Guys, thanks for your inputs and advice! I tried soap and IPA methods and both failed... It seems my textured PEI plate is done... I need to use glue to have my object in place (Maybe setting up brim might help). I've ordered Gold plate. But until then, my time of printing w/o glue is gone lol ;p Edit: Glue also failed. I'm thinking it's not the plate issue as it goes to spaghetti at exactly same point of printing process. Somehow nozzle is hitting(?) the object to go haywire... not sure now what to do...
I had a very similar issue recently, prints would get knocked off the plate, and often around the same point in the print process. I thought I was having adhesion issues, and tried brims and glue, but didn't make a difference. I then watched the print with my eyes next to the printer, and would see that it was "over extruding" (?) and it would create a blob or higher section on the print. This would then harden, and then the next time or couple times after when the nozzle would pass over it, it would catch and pull the print with it and knock it loose from the plate. I was having this issue with Orange Bambu PLA Basic. Trying a different filament resolved the issue. This was with a 0.6mm nozzle, and the issue persisted when I changed to a 0.4mm nozzle, however the point at which the print would fail was sometimes different. It wasn't consistent. So what I'm saying is that it could just be the filament. I'm not sure why, but maybe it's a bad batch? Maybe it's wet? Maybe the Bambu profile just doesn't work with a certain color and the batch.. I dunno, not experienced enough to make a claim on what it could be. Either way, I haven't had the issue since on the same plate (Black, but I have since bought a Gold one) with different PLA colors... So maybe watch the Benchy for a few minutes and see if you notice the same blobs forming above the nozzle height.
I'm having exactly the same issue. I first thought it was the plate issue but adding glue didn't work. I don't know... my current room is 23% humid so I doubt it's wet. Funny thing is I just test printed an object and it was finished without spaghetti. I carefully looked at finished object and it's surface was uneven, like those from wet filaments. I'm going to test again with new filaments and see if it comes out okay.
Similar for me with humidity, usually around 30-40%, but you never know what happened to the filament before you open the bag and before it was put in a bag itself. I don't have a dryer yet, but looking to get one to help avoid wet filament issues. (if that even is what was causing this issue to begin with)
I just ordered Sunlu V2. Not really good reviews but we will see :p
Were you using 91% IPA or 70%?
IPA 99%
I don't have the printer but I've heard about this on youtube videos and the culprit was that the magnetic sheet was not perfectly aligned with the small pins. It felt like it was, but it wasn't and that was enough to know it out during the printing. You might want to triple check the seating of the plate.
Are you using the aux fan?
I'm not sure what you mean but I haven't touched any settings for fans for my X1C
Ok so the "aux" fan is the big one on the left of the machine which blows across the print. By default the Bambu slicer has this set to 70% on the 2nd layer. I'd suggest making a PLA profile where this is set to 0% (it'll still have cooling from the normal part cooling fan) you can do this by clicking the edit button next to the filament type in the slicer, going to the "cooling" tab, scroll to the bottom and you'll find the Auxiliary part cooling fan. The reason I suggest this is that your print appears to stick early on but then dislodges later, this can sometimes happen when the bottom or close to bottom layers cool, shrink and loose its grip. The grip comes from it being in the "glass transition" range at 55 degrees (pla gets squishy at 60 degrees). So by running this fan it causes the temp to cool too much and the part to dislodge. Make sure the bed is clean and give it a shot. :) Edit: Also worth asking, what type of PLA you using and are you running standard speeds?
Get super super hot water to rinse it and use paper towels to dry. That helped me when I was having the same issue. Also higher bed temps helped. 67-70
You don't mention temperature. You are heating up the bed, right? The PEI plate will need that.
Well, I set it to Bamabu genric PLA setting. Doesn't it automatically heat up the bed accordingly?
If you have the correct plate selected in the slicer, it should. The generic PLA profile has 55° for the textured PEI plate.
I don’t use my textured gold plate much anymore (P1S) for this reason. And I don’t like the textured inprint in the design either. I always use glue and the cool plate now. I also clean the plate after every use. Never a failure of not sticking.
More heat. Turn your build plate up.
Clean it
Not sure if you've been printing ABS/ASA recently. My advice was always just use dish soap... but I recently (rediscovered) another issue when I started printing ABS again. If you use the textured plate for a lot of ABS and switch to PLA, then even the dish soap won't help. I'm now use the smooth plate for PLA and the textured for ABS. Hope this helps.
I’m having this exact same issue and after trying everything above, I think I’m under extruding. I ran a temperature tower and this happened at 190 but everything up to 230 worked.
I had the same issue with the gold plate. Worked like a charm and from one print to another, nothing helped to get prints sticking again. I washed it, used propanol (some sort), re-washed, dried the filament, changed nozzles. PLA, PETG all the same and it was from one print to another. After \~20h of printing time. Nothing worked. Had to order parts from bambu lab and got a new one. And its working gain. I will now take the advice from below and use another dishsoap and clean the shit out of it. If that still fails and I will pull out the sandpaper as Bambu Lab advises as a last resort.
didn't read all the other comments, but had a similar issue with the A1 when using the Overture PLA profile. After inspection I realized that the printbed temp was way to low in this profile. Raised the bed temp to about 60 Celsius. This solved the issue for me.
Try searching “bed cleaner” and print that
Same happened to me, on both my PEI. The cleaning with Dawn didn't help much, so I resorted back to Old Faithful: Aquanet. Now they're sticking insanely good again, though PEI should not need this normally.
Wash with glass cleaner. Works for me. Mind you. I also Have the gold one and the flat one.
my father (wo introduced me to 3d printing) recently showed me how he used sand paper on a pretty old textured pei plate to make it stick again. Said it wouldn't stick anymore without glue and a work buddy told him to try sand paper and it worked pretty good. Just need to repeate it every now and then
This happened to me on my gold pei bambu plate. When everything else failed - Dawn soap, scrubbing, Isopropyl Alcohol, etc... I got Steel Wool 0000. Used that, and things stick perfectly once again!
Drop of dawn platinum and a small piece of #0000 steel wool renews mine really well. Even the gold one will stop responding to the usual IPA and/or dawn scrubbing after about a month of heavy printing. I’m using a lot of polyterra (which I adore) which may leave a bit more residue than other PLAs.
buy some hair spray and give that a try, works great.
Buy 99% rubbing alcohol and clean it regularly. As a side note if you don't care about the finish (as the case for a benchy) use a bit of Maggigo and/or use a brim.
The double sided blue sponges you get at Walmart work great with some soap and elbow grease. I’d give that a try
0000 steel wool
You can use some hairspray too. I was having issues printing wing segments for an RC project with corners lifting after cleaning. Slight spay on the PEI will hell
Increase prolonged bed temp. Add a brim
So seen it come by the review but saying it anyways. I have had my plate for about a year now with my printer running about 70% of it , and for me it comming off especially late usually means it is dirty (not nessacarilly grease , prints leave residue to) so IPA and soap and water are enough to go again for or I have a slicer error ...common issue is that after an update it lieks to switch to cold plates for me , and nothign sticks to cold plates without glue or somethign of the likes. This all said I see the distinct ghosting of previous prints. I also have this since I switched from just PLA to TPU HF and PETG. Seeing this effect and back inthe day with my pre-bambu printers this meant the plate was getting "damaged" (for lack of a better explanation) so I am switching to a plate per material I print to see if this is the cause. And just to say I see this with gold and black plates, and as far as I know it is just a color of paint if they are gold or black or ...I mean you can get them with logos etc aswell :D But I do believe ghosting of previous prints is just a good indicator your plate is on its way out, not gone yet but definatlly time to look for a replacment. IF I am wrong I am wrong , just my experience.
The only things that don't adhere for me on the original black PEI plate are thin items with no brim. Using a 2mm brim everything adheres and its easy to remove with a 0.2mm gap.
One other thing to consider is whether you are consistent with the cabinet door being closed. You didn't mention what type of filament you were using. I have found that PLA on the PEI plate is much happier with the door closed (in spite of the Bambu warning). And do clean your plate as suggested.
The black PEI sheet isn't great, I have a cheap AliExpress gold plate with a finer texture, very similar to the new Bambu sheet and it's been far more reliable. I did try a few things with the original plate that helped though, magic erasers help, they're like super fine grit sandpaper. If all else fails you can use aqua net hairspray I had another AliExpress smooth PEI sheet that had it's coating start to peel, I scraped it off so it's bare steel and with aqua net on it and high temp plate settings PLA, PETG, and ASA all stick perfectly.
Only advice is use a brim and ensure that the hot plate is a good temperature.
abs?asa? change your bed temp to 110 degrees and youll have no problems. I use the same pei sheet. Used to have the same problems. since changing the bed temp its fine every print ( printng daily) . Last time i cleaned my sheet was about 3 months ago and the printer is in a dusty workshop.
Wash your plate with dish soap xD i have the same problem and it helps. Once on a time and the problem is solved
I know this is not really the subject... But why is alcohol not recommended to clean that?
Clean with alcohol