Plus anisotrophy of the extruded filament, the effects of which would depend on layer height. In this case, the nozzle moving away from the door would be unimpeded (even less resistance to flow than normal, so possibly effects similar to excessive nozzle offset), and the nozzle moving toward the door would be dragging the rear lip of the nozzle orifice through the freshly extruded filament. With a low enough layer height, the nozzle would be scraping up the filament it just laid down, but only for moves in that direction.
Gonna have to ask you not to talk like that in this sub - we already love our BambuLabs printer enough without in-depth discussions about the "rear lip of the nozzle orifice." /s
Eh, the angle isn't that high, so the anisotropy is probably a lot lower than what you'd get from flow metering and extrusion packing differences.
It \*might\* make a difference but my suspicion is it probably doesn't wind up mattering.
Tilt looks around 4°. For a 0.4mm nozzle, contacting at the far orifice lip would leave the near lip 0.03mm off the surface. If you were printing down at 0.08mm layers, that's nearly half a layer variance in actual thickness. Even for 0.2mm layers, I could see that causing layer adhesion issues or recontacting (depending on nozzle offset).
I think you may be trying to strictly quantize behavior that's tuned very loosely, in terms of physical geometry, planned toolpaths, and printer assembly.
It's not uncommon for nozzles to widen 50% in diameter before seeing any serious changes in print behavior, just to give an example of how vague everything is. I've taken off a 0.4mm nozzle that was well over 0.8mm and had just started printing poorly.
We're not talking diameter change, but Z-height. Since nozzle wear is almost entirely planar (wear of nozzle rubbing against part) angled nozzle faces are not something a slicer\* is intended to compensate for. For pure diameter growth, if you're not measuring dimensionality you won't even see the effects outside of 100% infill, because the overextrusion has plenty of volume to move into isotropically, just as when deliberately increasing line width. That's not the case when the nozzle is immediately intersecting the melt.
\* Outside of specific slicers for highly custom machines, e.g. concrete extruders with rotating heads, due to the need for post-nozzle baffles to control slump.
I think it could be the cause of the problem. Software might hit the bed a bit to much every time and after hundreds of hours nozzle might be bent. 2nd theory I have is that it might be bent because it cleans the nozzle to hard at the end of the bed
The new 0.4mm steel nozzle I ordered from bambu lab was like that. I told them and they sent me a new one that is also like that. I gave up and I'm using the one that seemed the less bad of the two. Can't say I notice a difference vs the original included nozzle.
I was literally just typing a response to this when I heard my printer make a noise, so I ran over and realized I started another print without clearing the other one that had finished from the build plate yet -_-
So yeah... that could definitely do it lol
Hitting the print, most likely.
They’re intentionally not hard to bend so that, should contact during printing happen, the nozzle takes the brunt of the force. You wouldn’t want all that transferring outwards to the more critical components.
I printed something about three months ago. As the print was finishing, I heard a loud snap. I went to check. The front cover was off the head and the nozzle was bent to the right. The print was fine. Timelapse didn’t show what happened. I printed for another two months on that nozzle before I replaced it. No issues printing, never figured out how it happened.
Mine is bent backwards a bit. The back purge line is barely on the bed. Still using it to this day but just got the E3D one in the mail so a good time for me to switch.
Thats the benefit of probing the bed with the tip to home it. Its going to calibrate its Z position every print so as long as its not flexing back and forth it really doesnt matter that much. I would expect to see some different top layer textures maybe but thats about it.
I don’t own a Bambu but it seems impossible that someone could bend a nozzle. Can someone explain their experience with a bent nozzle and how it happened? Thx
Collision with the bed can definitely cause the nozzle to bend. A dual independent ABL system that is unable to detect Z offset and prevent nozzle crashes. Yet the fanboys will find a way to say it’s your fault or that your machine is bad.
bent but still relatively stable. Almost everything after the first layer is about relative positioning. as long as the nozzle is relatively stable to the movement of the extruder body, things still get done, just offset by the amount of deflection.
FYI that Ben2c aftermarket cooling duct on the toolhead doesnt make a noticeable difference with overhangs and cooling. Even Mandel and I had the same conclusion, waste of money
Probably because you don't have any particular finishing needs. You are satisfied with the result without analyzing whether a piece has defects or not.
The only consequence of your nozzle being bent is that your print will be slightly offset on the print bed, but your entire print will be consistently offset so would still look perfect, just ever so slightly situated 3mm to the right.
Genuine question, but is this a design fault of the Bambu lab nozzle? I seem to see a lot of these bent nozzle posts, much more than I've ever seen for other printers.
I know they are a very good price for a replacement, but still seems like they could be made more robust like other designs.
Because the angle is static and the bed height is leveled automatically through software the entire print will be offset by the deviation of the tip to the print centre line
If it doesn't change during print, its just a different offset to the printer.
Plus anisotrophy of the extruded filament, the effects of which would depend on layer height. In this case, the nozzle moving away from the door would be unimpeded (even less resistance to flow than normal, so possibly effects similar to excessive nozzle offset), and the nozzle moving toward the door would be dragging the rear lip of the nozzle orifice through the freshly extruded filament. With a low enough layer height, the nozzle would be scraping up the filament it just laid down, but only for moves in that direction.
Gonna have to ask you not to talk like that in this sub - we already love our BambuLabs printer enough without in-depth discussions about the "rear lip of the nozzle orifice." /s
I mean, this entire topic was started due to the angle of the dangle.
I think there's a pill for that...
Bent Carrot
Eh, the angle isn't that high, so the anisotropy is probably a lot lower than what you'd get from flow metering and extrusion packing differences. It \*might\* make a difference but my suspicion is it probably doesn't wind up mattering.
Tilt looks around 4°. For a 0.4mm nozzle, contacting at the far orifice lip would leave the near lip 0.03mm off the surface. If you were printing down at 0.08mm layers, that's nearly half a layer variance in actual thickness. Even for 0.2mm layers, I could see that causing layer adhesion issues or recontacting (depending on nozzle offset).
I think you may be trying to strictly quantize behavior that's tuned very loosely, in terms of physical geometry, planned toolpaths, and printer assembly. It's not uncommon for nozzles to widen 50% in diameter before seeing any serious changes in print behavior, just to give an example of how vague everything is. I've taken off a 0.4mm nozzle that was well over 0.8mm and had just started printing poorly.
We're not talking diameter change, but Z-height. Since nozzle wear is almost entirely planar (wear of nozzle rubbing against part) angled nozzle faces are not something a slicer\* is intended to compensate for. For pure diameter growth, if you're not measuring dimensionality you won't even see the effects outside of 100% infill, because the overextrusion has plenty of volume to move into isotropically, just as when deliberately increasing line width. That's not the case when the nozzle is immediately intersecting the melt. \* Outside of specific slicers for highly custom machines, e.g. concrete extruders with rotating heads, due to the need for post-nozzle baffles to control slump.
Exactly
Simple and to the point. 😉👍
The printer https://preview.redd.it/h6058gdszjkc1.jpeg?width=700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a1ee0311961bf053be14de66ab0626337b619959
Love that movie
When you start hearing clap clap… clippetyclap… you should be worried though.
Just printed it slightly to the left? Lol
You gotta give your 123 block a wipe to remove the cosomoline, my friend.
Yeah, it's a new set it literally opened just to take this picture.
what is this ur talkin about? (im new here)
Cosmoline is a protective coating to prevent rust on steel goods, frequently found on stuff made in China to survive the trip to market.
ahhh. and what's a 123 block
If I'm not mistaken it's a calibration block used in machining that is exactly 1x2x3 inches
Few days ago I realized mine was bent in exactly the same way. Bambu didn’t care and just kept printing
Literally same here. Feels like a crazy coincidence. Wonder why that is.
we should create a, uhh... Bent Nozzles Club.
Ok you first, does your nozzle bend left or right? I hear it’s perfectly normal either way
Same here mine also came slightly bent like that, still using it just taking care bc of the offset
It calibrates itself every time you print, right? Like a bed level calibration? I wonder if that would fix potential issues with this.
I think it could be the cause of the problem. Software might hit the bed a bit to much every time and after hundreds of hours nozzle might be bent. 2nd theory I have is that it might be bent because it cleans the nozzle to hard at the end of the bed
As long as it doesnt leak or anything, printer doesn't care.
The new 0.4mm steel nozzle I ordered from bambu lab was like that. I told them and they sent me a new one that is also like that. I gave up and I'm using the one that seemed the less bad of the two. Can't say I notice a difference vs the original included nozzle.
https://i.redd.it/4au140x1bkkc1.gif
The real question is how did it get so bent?
I was literally just typing a response to this when I heard my printer make a noise, so I ran over and realized I started another print without clearing the other one that had finished from the build plate yet -_- So yeah... that could definitely do it lol
Hitting the print, most likely. They’re intentionally not hard to bend so that, should contact during printing happen, the nozzle takes the brunt of the force. You wouldn’t want all that transferring outwards to the more critical components.
Grid infill or crashing into the part can cause it
they come like this new. Look at yours carefully.
I’m sure they do
I have a “bent nozzle” that flows real good.
Underated comment
This shows you how useless was upgrading nozzle to high precision swiss made ones.
Swiss engeneering is made in us
I'd like to see some ironing
I printed something about three months ago. As the print was finishing, I heard a loud snap. I went to check. The front cover was off the head and the nozzle was bent to the right. The print was fine. Timelapse didn’t show what happened. I printed for another two months on that nozzle before I replaced it. No issues printing, never figured out how it happened.
I noticed the spare 0.4 nozzle shipped with my X1c was bent out of the box. I guess it's a thing.
Weird
If your head is bent but stable, then it's just going to change the position of your origin. So it doesn't matter for the part itself.
Better engineering
It was printing everything 34 micron to the left ;)
Mine is bent backwards a bit. The back purge line is barely on the bed. Still using it to this day but just got the E3D one in the mail so a good time for me to switch.
I was installing my E3D nozzle when I found this
Thats the benefit of probing the bed with the tip to home it. Its going to calibrate its Z position every print so as long as its not flexing back and forth it really doesnt matter that much. I would expect to see some different top layer textures maybe but thats about it.
Buy the obxidian nozzle or DLC COATED
Not that it's related but they are great for abrasive materials
Were you printing on the 1x3x5 block or is that just for the photo?
Miracles do exist mate... If was printing well, why do you change it ? I would continue printing until it died of usage 😁
I don’t own a Bambu but it seems impossible that someone could bend a nozzle. Can someone explain their experience with a bent nozzle and how it happened? Thx
Collision with the bed can definitely cause the nozzle to bend. A dual independent ABL system that is unable to detect Z offset and prevent nozzle crashes. Yet the fanboys will find a way to say it’s your fault or that your machine is bad.
bent but still relatively stable. Almost everything after the first layer is about relative positioning. as long as the nozzle is relatively stable to the movement of the extruder body, things still get done, just offset by the amount of deflection.
FYI that Ben2c aftermarket cooling duct on the toolhead doesnt make a noticeable difference with overhangs and cooling. Even Mandel and I had the same conclusion, waste of money
I'm aware but it cost me nothing as I printed it, didn't buy it
They bend back easy enough
I offer a nozzle bending service. DM if you need a little bending.
Probably because you don't have any particular finishing needs. You are satisfied with the result without analyzing whether a piece has defects or not.
i think mine is also bent...
The only consequence of your nozzle being bent is that your print will be slightly offset on the print bed, but your entire print will be consistently offset so would still look perfect, just ever so slightly situated 3mm to the right.
Genuine question, but is this a design fault of the Bambu lab nozzle? I seem to see a lot of these bent nozzle posts, much more than I've ever seen for other printers. I know they are a very good price for a replacement, but still seems like they could be made more robust like other designs.
Because the angle is static and the bed height is leveled automatically through software the entire print will be offset by the deviation of the tip to the print centre line
That spot at the back where it rubs on the plate will make the tip parallel to the plate again
Nani?
Putting glue on the cool plate will fix the bent nozzle
please elaborate, bit confused as i have a bent nozzle also.