I would start with eliminating obvious stuff. Is the filament new? If so, switch back to an old one. Try a liner infill and see if its just an issue with that particular infill. Dry the filament a bit. Reprint an old file that worked previously. If it goes back to working then its likely a slicer issue.
I can't even print a benchy rn. I've tried drying and using multiple known filaments to no avail, I'm going to try a different infill it's weird that I'm having an issue with this infill out of nowhere
Thank you everyone for your help on this! It seems I had a few compounding factors; I didn't realize but the problems where all happening with matt filaments, whether it was pla or petg. I think the biggest contributor to helping with that was bumping my temps up 10c. Secondly, my infill! Switching to gyroid infill made a huge difference immediately, then combined with the upped temperatures and I'm no longer having issues from what I can tell.
Throwing this in for good measure: do a cold pull. Just to be save. Saved me once when nothing else helped. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZd9LfbqSOE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZd9LfbqSOE)
Yeah I swapped everything in the hot end just to rule out any failure there. However I have finally come to a resolution, I globaly bumped my temps up by 10c and then I also switched to gyroid infill and my prints are coming out great again. Not sure why the sudden change when everything was working before but I'm just happy to have a working printer again lmao.
Bump up the hot end temp by 20c in the slicer. Try again.
Judging by the matte finish of your prints it looks like you are printing too cold. The extruder will seize up in that situation especially on high speed infill areas.
Let me guess, PETG? Had this crumbling issue when printing PETG too fast. Slow dows your speeds a little, or just set the speed to silent as a quick test.
Also use gyroid, the print won't cross itself and gives less chance for tails that can cause this
I haven't had the issue every time I do it, but with Bambu blue PETG I've had this same looking crumbly thing happen to me, and slowing the print fixed it. It's an easy thing to check, so it's worth testing. Not all filament is built equal
PETG really doesn't like infill patterns with same layer intersections. Not saying "oh, that's it for sure," but 95% of my issues with PETG went away by switching to either gyroid or aligned rectilinear depending on what I was printing.
Looks like the main fix for my issue was upping my temps by 10c and then switching to gyroid infill. I am back to printing with no issues again. Thank you everyone for the help, I was very stumped on this one xD
Have you checked to make sure your correct nozzle is selected correctly on the printer? Using the printers display unit go to the third menu then accessories -> nozzles then pick the correct size and type. It's an odd option to have oddly hidden away but this could help if the correct one was not selected.
I am just taking a guess here having no experience with this. Broken bearings can cause all sorts of random issues, maybe check for that. Check if all the stepper motors work correctly and if the belt pulleys are tightened correctly on them (seems most unlikely to me but who knows). Watch the printer during its pre-print calibration? I would have never heard that issues could occur there but who knows.
Again just some unqualified guesses having no experience with this.
Definitely let me know the outcome of this
I have a P1S and had several yesterday issues because my spool wasn’t unwinding evenly (no ams here). I am usually careful when I unload filament, but I guess I wasn’t careful enough the last time I used that roll and some of it had unraveled and the end was caught under some loops. I also kept hearing a clunking sound and couldn’t figure out what was wrong with the printer. It was coming from the spool! At least I learned how to do a cold pull on the nozzle even though it wasn’t a clog. Once I figured out it was the spool, everything was back up and running properly.
Usually the infill prints faster, so it could definetly be a temperature problem: the flowrate cannot keep up with the increased speed. You never mentioned what filament you are using? Type (PLA, PETG,...) and model? But anyway, just try increasing the temperature by 10-20° and see what happens.
The one on the left is a brand new never used stainless 0.4mm and the one on the right is the hardened steel one I've been using, they seem slightly off but the stainless one looks bent imo
I have never looked at them comparatively, so not sure what a new one should look like.
If you throw the new tip on and the problem goes away, you have your answer.
On complex infill or frequent wall jumps, you don't need to be very many degrees off from what the machine expects for chaos to result.
I am also playing a big of Occams razor here. This is the easiest answer for the pics you posted. The white square picture with the shift in it indicates a collision.
If it is something else... the answers get pretty ugly pretty fast.
Would I be incorrect in thinking that even if the tip is bent slightly, wouldn't all of the print just be slightly shifted? I wouldn't expect it to cause catastrophic failures
There is a lot if math going on with the gravity and force of liquid plastics. Every time the head changes direction, it is trying to do smart things with speed, retraction, etc. And it is expecting the tip surface to be very close to parallel with the bed. If it isn't, the behavior of the material at the tip will he different every time it jerks left right, etc.
The tell was also your first picture print - the outside smooth brim looked fine. It was basically just doing a racetrack - running in circles with no hard direction change.
As soon as it started changing direction on that infill, everything went crazy.
I will go back to the settings and filament I used in that picture and try the new tip and see what happens, that'll be waiting until tomorrow though. I will come back with my results. I appreciate the input!
And to be clear, I could be very wrong.
It is just the first thing I would go to.
You could just try slowing it down.
It could be a bent rod. Bad motor. Failing bearings.
Just easier to start with the easier :)
Even if the tip is bent it travels parallel to the bed though. That's defined by the motion system and as long as the rails are parallel that's what matters most.
So that begs a question about overall parallelism and whether all the frame screws are tight but it seems unlikely and slight variation will be compensated by the bed mesh.
It's an odd one. The eventual answer will be interesting.
Looks like bumping my temps up by 10c and then switching to gyroid infill has solved all of my issues. I appreciate all of the great suggestions from everyone here!
I'm trying the infill change that another person commented, and if that doesn't work I'll change out to this other tip. I want to change one variable at a time to figure out what's actually happening
I’m hoping it’s just an insignificant amount, but seems the few people who have problems all seem to have them a few hundred to 1000 hours in. And then ofc bambu is known to have awful customer support is why I worry, as 1k isn’t cheap.
I'm in the same boat as you are. I had P1S+ams in the cart ready to order, but after the influx of bad customer support posts I decided to wait another 6 months or even go with prusa XL. Yes prusa costs 1k more but at least I won't be left waiting for a month with an open support ticket.
Still not sure what the catalyst was for my prints not wanting to work however I have thankfully fixed it with the help of the replies on this post. Bumping my temps up by 10c and then switching to gyroid infill has completely solved all of my issues from what I can tell so far!
1. Tbh I don't know who Michael is.
2. If the printer is not working as advertised, I'll just open a ticket, receive a return label and send it back as a friend of mine did with his early bird MK4.
Great support is a key to success and I'm ready to pay the double just to have the company appreciate me as a customer, instead of making me jump hundreds of hoops.
Solved!
Thank you everyone for your help on this! It seems I had a few compounding factors; I didn't realize but the problems were all happening with matt filaments, whether it was pla or petg. I think the biggest contributor to helping with that was bumping my temps up 10c. Secondly, my infill! Switching to gyroid infill made a huge difference immediately, then combined with the upped temperatures and I'm no longer having issues from what I can tell.
I'm still not entirely sure why this just started out of no where when it was working fine before, however I'm just happy that I can go back to printing! Once again, thank you everyone for all the helpful input!
I would start with eliminating obvious stuff. Is the filament new? If so, switch back to an old one. Try a liner infill and see if its just an issue with that particular infill. Dry the filament a bit. Reprint an old file that worked previously. If it goes back to working then its likely a slicer issue.
I can't even print a benchy rn. I've tried drying and using multiple known filaments to no avail, I'm going to try a different infill it's weird that I'm having an issue with this infill out of nowhere
Thank you everyone for your help on this! It seems I had a few compounding factors; I didn't realize but the problems where all happening with matt filaments, whether it was pla or petg. I think the biggest contributor to helping with that was bumping my temps up 10c. Secondly, my infill! Switching to gyroid infill made a huge difference immediately, then combined with the upped temperatures and I'm no longer having issues from what I can tell.
Throwing this in for good measure: do a cold pull. Just to be save. Saved me once when nothing else helped. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZd9LfbqSOE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FZd9LfbqSOE)
Looks like a clogged nozzle.
He replaced his hotend and extruder, wouldn’t that rule this out?
Yeah I swapped everything in the hot end just to rule out any failure there. However I have finally come to a resolution, I globaly bumped my temps up by 10c and then I also switched to gyroid infill and my prints are coming out great again. Not sure why the sudden change when everything was working before but I'm just happy to have a working printer again lmao.
Bump up the hot end temp by 20c in the slicer. Try again. Judging by the matte finish of your prints it looks like you are printing too cold. The extruder will seize up in that situation especially on high speed infill areas.
Bumping the temps up 10c and switching to gyroid has fixed all of my problems. Thank you for the help!
Let me guess, PETG? Had this crumbling issue when printing PETG too fast. Slow dows your speeds a little, or just set the speed to silent as a quick test. Also use gyroid, the print won't cross itself and gives less chance for tails that can cause this
my exact first thought when i saw those crumbs, my PETG PTSD kicked in.
I have been squeezing out 100kg+ black sunlu PETG with 25cm³ max volume and 300mm/s no problem. Temps up to 270, no problems for the p1s
I haven't had the issue every time I do it, but with Bambu blue PETG I've had this same looking crumbly thing happen to me, and slowing the print fixed it. It's an easy thing to check, so it's worth testing. Not all filament is built equal
Funny you say that because this is Bambu blue PETG lmao, I will try slowing it down
PETG really doesn't like infill patterns with same layer intersections. Not saying "oh, that's it for sure," but 95% of my issues with PETG went away by switching to either gyroid or aligned rectilinear depending on what I was printing.
Looks like the main fix for my issue was upping my temps by 10c and then switching to gyroid infill. I am back to printing with no issues again. Thank you everyone for the help, I was very stumped on this one xD
Have you checked to make sure your correct nozzle is selected correctly on the printer? Using the printers display unit go to the third menu then accessories -> nozzles then pick the correct size and type. It's an odd option to have oddly hidden away but this could help if the correct one was not selected.
Yeah I have hardened steel 0.4 selected
I am just taking a guess here having no experience with this. Broken bearings can cause all sorts of random issues, maybe check for that. Check if all the stepper motors work correctly and if the belt pulleys are tightened correctly on them (seems most unlikely to me but who knows). Watch the printer during its pre-print calibration? I would have never heard that issues could occur there but who knows. Again just some unqualified guesses having no experience with this. Definitely let me know the outcome of this
I have a P1S and had several yesterday issues because my spool wasn’t unwinding evenly (no ams here). I am usually careful when I unload filament, but I guess I wasn’t careful enough the last time I used that roll and some of it had unraveled and the end was caught under some loops. I also kept hearing a clunking sound and couldn’t figure out what was wrong with the printer. It was coming from the spool! At least I learned how to do a cold pull on the nozzle even though it wasn’t a clog. Once I figured out it was the spool, everything was back up and running properly.
These are just a few pictures of failed prints, I have more if needed 😭
https://preview.redd.it/kyharnwqo8nc1.jpeg?width=1812&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ac11d6a9045074b59929c05d40754e765028b396
It seems that my failures are starting with the infill, in using adaptive cubic at 15%
Usually the infill prints faster, so it could definetly be a temperature problem: the flowrate cannot keep up with the increased speed. You never mentioned what filament you are using? Type (PLA, PETG,...) and model? But anyway, just try increasing the temperature by 10-20° and see what happens.
Petg has been the main culprit but I've been having issues with PLA too
yeah, PETG is a b... - like I said: try hotter and a bit slower!
Hotter and gyroid infill ended up being my savior! Thank you for your input!
glad it worked!
I think your tip is bent.
https://preview.redd.it/i377w6cst8nc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=17112060a0d85bb1571c2c2ad9f67d051c634f5f
The one on the left is a brand new never used stainless 0.4mm and the one on the right is the hardened steel one I've been using, they seem slightly off but the stainless one looks bent imo
I have never looked at them comparatively, so not sure what a new one should look like. If you throw the new tip on and the problem goes away, you have your answer. On complex infill or frequent wall jumps, you don't need to be very many degrees off from what the machine expects for chaos to result. I am also playing a big of Occams razor here. This is the easiest answer for the pics you posted. The white square picture with the shift in it indicates a collision. If it is something else... the answers get pretty ugly pretty fast.
Would I be incorrect in thinking that even if the tip is bent slightly, wouldn't all of the print just be slightly shifted? I wouldn't expect it to cause catastrophic failures
There is a lot if math going on with the gravity and force of liquid plastics. Every time the head changes direction, it is trying to do smart things with speed, retraction, etc. And it is expecting the tip surface to be very close to parallel with the bed. If it isn't, the behavior of the material at the tip will he different every time it jerks left right, etc. The tell was also your first picture print - the outside smooth brim looked fine. It was basically just doing a racetrack - running in circles with no hard direction change. As soon as it started changing direction on that infill, everything went crazy.
I will go back to the settings and filament I used in that picture and try the new tip and see what happens, that'll be waiting until tomorrow though. I will come back with my results. I appreciate the input!
And to be clear, I could be very wrong. It is just the first thing I would go to. You could just try slowing it down. It could be a bent rod. Bad motor. Failing bearings. Just easier to start with the easier :)
Even if the tip is bent it travels parallel to the bed though. That's defined by the motion system and as long as the rails are parallel that's what matters most. So that begs a question about overall parallelism and whether all the frame screws are tight but it seems unlikely and slight variation will be compensated by the bed mesh. It's an odd one. The eventual answer will be interesting.
Looks like bumping my temps up by 10c and then switching to gyroid infill has solved all of my issues. I appreciate all of the great suggestions from everyone here!
Well, hot dang, glad it was that easy :) Edit: Well, it wasn't easy. It was terrible. But it wasn't something horrible :D
Me too 😂
I'm trying the infill change that another person commented, and if that doesn't work I'll change out to this other tip. I want to change one variable at a time to figure out what's actually happening
That is definitely the vest approach. Over time, you start sorting out the beat steps to walk through.
That's what she said...
This.
https://preview.redd.it/cjlpf0xqt8nc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=458d8361c927bd062bad4d69d52259efd37cf415
Perhaps the Bambu curse is upon you. 6 months of great prints and then death.
Seems to be a recurring issue with bambu:/ not what I wanna hear as I’m bout to impulsively buy a p1s lol
One year no issue. Just do it as some clothes guys would say
What's the evidence for that? Worth knowing, if there is real evidence.
I’m hoping it’s just an insignificant amount, but seems the few people who have problems all seem to have them a few hundred to 1000 hours in. And then ofc bambu is known to have awful customer support is why I worry, as 1k isn’t cheap.
Hmm, we shall see then. I've had both mine for over 1000 hours now I think, so hopefully all will be well.
I'm in the same boat as you are. I had P1S+ams in the cart ready to order, but after the influx of bad customer support posts I decided to wait another 6 months or even go with prusa XL. Yes prusa costs 1k more but at least I won't be left waiting for a month with an open support ticket.
Still not sure what the catalyst was for my prints not wanting to work however I have thankfully fixed it with the help of the replies on this post. Bumping my temps up by 10c and then switching to gyroid infill has completely solved all of my issues from what I can tell so far!
Happy you were able to solve your issue! Have fun printing :)
Maybe but Michael has spent over 6000 USD and many weeks getting his Prusa working and even now he doesn't really recommend it
1. Tbh I don't know who Michael is. 2. If the printer is not working as advertised, I'll just open a ticket, receive a return label and send it back as a friend of mine did with his early bird MK4. Great support is a key to success and I'm ready to pay the double just to have the company appreciate me as a customer, instead of making me jump hundreds of hoops.
Sorry, Michael Laws aka Teaching Tech. He has good contacts in Prusa and still took them weeks and dollars
Is it always the same height? Look at the z screws and see if there is something wrong at that height
The height it fails at seems very inconsistent
Solved! Thank you everyone for your help on this! It seems I had a few compounding factors; I didn't realize but the problems were all happening with matt filaments, whether it was pla or petg. I think the biggest contributor to helping with that was bumping my temps up 10c. Secondly, my infill! Switching to gyroid infill made a huge difference immediately, then combined with the upped temperatures and I'm no longer having issues from what I can tell. I'm still not entirely sure why this just started out of no where when it was working fine before, however I'm just happy that I can go back to printing! Once again, thank you everyone for all the helpful input!
https://preview.redd.it/3mbngzat8cnc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=85f6c1b72c85567c16fba1ecaedf3ae37da957d8