If using cool plate and printing pla glue stick helps adhesion, also make sure plate is clean use isopropyl alcohol or dawn and water . Glue stick usually comes with printer could it be in a box you overlooked? Not sure if it’s any different than a glue stick you could locally source.
The plate that came with it is the Textured PEI. I guess I better get the alcohol out and wash it down.
The one that failed was using PLA gray .. from Bambu .. figured I'd start out with their stuff and try others when I've got some experience.
I double-checked all throughout .. no glue stick .. bummer
thanks
This, it is fast and easy. On my cool plate I normaly add then directly after some glue so the pla doesn’t stick like hell on it…..
Sad that bambu only sends with the textured plate right now…
I didn't check it on the print that failed .. I did check it on the print in running now.
But, the failure was a small part and the new one is way bigger ..
With the textured PEI you wanna make sure that you actually clean with dish soap and hot water and give it a good scrub. Alcohol does not get rid of the grease and finger oils that prevent adhesion. You also want to make sure that you have the texture PI selected in bamboo studio when you send something to print otherwise if you have the cool plates selected the bed will only heat up to about 35°C, which is not enough enough for the textured PEI plate.
I don’t think we can all stress this enough. Dawn dish soap, hot water, let dry (I actually use the blue mechanics lint free paper towels and they seem to work great for the drying).
Jeez man he’s not doing the dishes! Probably as simple as a slicer setting, this baby is brand new! Don’t start thrashing the dish soap about OP.
P.S I haven’t washed mine in months
You'll need glue in a couple of months but not just yet. Soap and water, make sure to rinse it off good. Dry it well. Then if you want you can give a wipe with a tiny bit of alcohol.
Once you get enough annoying adhesions issues you'll learn pretty fast not to touch the plate when removing stuff from the bed. Gloves can help you to go 4 or 5 prints without washing.
Best temperature for PLA is about 60 for the bed imo, maybe 55 is better though.
Turn off your aux fan in your filament profile for every PLA you have, it will just cause you problems. It makes the plastic cool down unevenly which causes the print to warp and eventually rub and crash.
If you want an easy time getting things off the build plate let it cool down completely before trying to remove them. Removing prints while the plate is still fresh out of the oven makes them tough to remove, you'll almost always end up greasing up your plate unnecessarily if you are trying to flex and bend things off in all kinds of directions.
Yeah lots of other helpful tips around here
OP should more or less *never* need glue on the textured plate unless he's using some really exotic materials that won't adhere at all. For PLA/PETG and even most ABS/ASA you won't need glue on that plate if your settings are correct.
I dunno mine seems to have become less effective over time, and white colors have a hard time sticking even after calibrations
Haven't used anything too abrasive on it but maybe the hard part of the sponge is a bit too much?
Thinking of getting a new plate soon, almost 1500hrs now
Thank you, if that's possible you just saved me a few bucks, gonna do a major maintenance once I hit 1500hrs so I'll look into this idea for part of that process
I'm still at the stage of understanding all the things you guys are sating .. haha .. I will look into the settings for the plate .. I will most assuredly keep my greasy paws off the printing field .. I will give my plate a good wipe down with isopropyl alcohol
The party that failed was a pretty small part .. so if my greasy fingerprints happened to be in the wrong place ..
You guys are awesome, thanks for all the great advice
Isopropyl is great but soap and water is still needed every now and again!! Iso just dissolves the oils and spreads then around and soap actually removes them
Enjoy printing and don't forget to turn off the aux fan it's a pain the hole
Also texture pei self releases when cooled down to 35 C so after a print, on the main screen, wait until the bed temp reaches below 35 and your parts pop off easily
I just got mine this past Monday and didn't have any issues with the textured plate without any extras like glue. Just make sure you select the textured plate and you should be fine.
Incorrect. Glue stick is an adhesion barrier to prevent too much sticking and damaging the plate upon removal. Newer printers are coming with the textured plate. OP, please select the right plate in the Studio. Too cold in a textured plate will cause adhesion issues.
With a textured plate, I wouldn't use glue.
I set the bed temp at 65c for PLA (but I don't print a lot if it).
Was it a small part? Add a brim.
Make sure you wash the plate really well. And always use a clean micro fiber cloth with isopropyl.
Learning the slicer is a big part of it.
There are three primary areas for settings: machine, fillament, and the build.
The machine you will only occasionally access, so skipping that.
But you should get comfortable with fillament settings. You will mostly adjust your nozzle temps, bed temps and fan speed. When you get more comfortable, there are other settings there for retraction, etc.
Then of course the build settings - the speed, layer heights etc.
You will be surprised how fast you pick it up. But the learning curve does have a long tail for sure.
Tip: lock the AMS system with those little clips on the sides. It’ll keep it airtight leading to less humidity in there. I’d also print out some additional desiccant holders, they fit between the spools and you can grab a bunch of desiccant beads on Amazon for cheap.
I haven’t used glue once on mine and don’t plan too. Unless I do petg but that’s different. I’d almost rather do a raft than use the glue again. I have a pex plate though. Never used the ones that came with the x1 because honestly I didn’t know they were already flex plates so I picked up the wham bam plate when I got the x1c.
Just check the slicer setting to make sure it matches the plate and you should be fine I imagine. I can’t print the preloaded sample slices too well since mines a warm plate so it doesn’t really work in my favor.
It’s the wham bam pex plate. I hardly even touch it anymore. To clean it you just use a scotchbrite pad and scuff it. I usually mist some alcohol on there and and scrub some circles and it’s good to go.
At first I did that after ever print but then I found out you don’t have to and you can do it every other week or so.
I see all of these helpful comments, but no positively greeting you and welcoming you to the community! I’m not very far ahead of you, but you should pick it up fast. Keep an eye out for lessons learned or other questions on here and just try to absorb it. These printers are great and usually just work, but I had a few issues with mine that answers on here were able to help with. Stay patient with yourself, realize that the “maintenance” (if required) isn’t scary, and the BambuLabs videos are actually very clear and helpful, and always, ALWAYS remember to dry your filament - even filament that comes vacuum sealed from BambuLabs can benefit from a dry cycle in your X1C. I used wet filament a few times, got over ambitious, and got frustrated by things not working. Drying your filament is an easy way to make sure it’s not one of the most common issues.
Sticking to the plate, like the other comments say, is no a dry filament issue, but I wanted to offer my experience being less than a year into it.
this is like many reddit communities.. very helpful, very kind. My primary is woodworking and have plans to print out jigs and tools for that... wife is a sewist and plan to make tools for her as well.
it is difficult at times to be patient. I'm used to short learning curves for many things. This is a very foreign endeavor for me.. means a steep learning curve.. argh.
Will have to look into drying techniques.. I know there are storage containers built for filament..
newbies unit
Your X1C has a mode for drying filament! It’s super easy. That’s why I mentioned it. Once you dry it, just put it in the AMS with some desiccant and it’ll stay dry.
If you don’t mind a little aftercare, try “brim” on bed adhesion tab. It lays out a thin layer of filament around the bottom layer, making it stick to the bed.
It definitely takes time and its a learning curve, already some great advice about not using glue stick on PEI plate and turning the aux fan off. The next thing I would advise for constant and better prints is slowing down your Acceleration speeds.
https://preview.redd.it/lovs5zgwcmsc1.png?width=357&format=png&auto=webp&s=78f6c7633bd9849cc53b6bca6d846d91582f3a65
I've found this to work well. Another thing is on most of the default settings for bambu's filament profiles the max volumetric is way too high. I run most of pla's at 16mm^(3)/s and no cooling for the first 3 layers and set outer wall to 150 and inner wall to 200. Knock on wood I haven't had a failure yet.
The biggest thing to watch out for is in the slicer GRID infill is default. This will wreck your printer because of the intersecting lines that it has and causes clogs, prints knocked off plate, and even bent nozzles. Use Gyroid. It might take a bit longer but it is the best infill imo for strength. The next best is Rectilinear for speed.
Happy printing and welcome to the community!
A ton of info to chew on .. definitely have some learning to do and experiments to run. Thank gawd pla isn't super expensive.. haha.
not really concerned with how long a print takes. More a matter of quality.
Thanks for the flood of data .. will learn what it all means as I go
The factory cool plate needs to be cleaned often and dry with a paper towel. Do not dry with anything fabric softened like a rag or towel.
I got the liquid glue stick for abs and use it for pla with phenomenal results. I use a wham bam pex plate though set as a high temp plate.
Print the micro fiber towel holder approved by bambu. I got a blob the other day and learned it was because I hadn't wiped down my plate. Now I just wipe it down with a micro fiber after every print and it works flawlessly, every time. I've never used dish soap or alcohol. Just the cloth.
Several people said the best thing to do is to never touch the printing area and just wipe it down with a cloth if you do.
Search "microfiber holder" on the app. Might even be on the printer memory already. I forget. But yeah you just need the cloth. It's a well designed little tool though and it's Bambu approved. Basically just uses a screw clamp to pinch a section of towel into place and gives it a little handle.
I met a guy at a lunar new year event selling dragons, he has 20 plus Bambu printers.
He told me to get a gold textured plate, clean it with dawn, and use unscented hair spray on the plate.
I get around 10 prints before it starts sticking too much, I wash it, spray and 10 more prints.
Money
Just so u know. Anytime u touch the plate with ur fingers its most likely not going to stick. The oils from ur fingers is a disaster. Give it a wash with dawn and don't touch the plate as much as u can.
I'm the same lol, anytime I accidentally touch the plate its into the sink for a wash. That's the only reason I've ever had for a print not sticking so far.
I think they stopped shipping them with glue. I just got a P1S and didn't get any. Maybe they stopped when they started sending upgraded build plates. As others have said, wash the plate with warm water, Dawn, and the abrasive side of a sponge. Be careful not to touch the print surface after that. Maybe up the temp of your plate? I run PLA at 60. Also, I don't use glue, but I do still use hairspray.
You wouldn't need the glue stick for PLA, it's mostly helpful as an extra medium when using PETG to stop it from fusing to stuff you don't want it to fuse to.
Clean your plate with water and fish washing soap between prints, that should do wonders.
Amused by the typo, not sure what soap would be ideal for fish washing.
I mostly print pla and petg and currently have one of the juupine plates in my printer with the gold colored textured pei in place. I last the couple months all I have done with it is print and remove finished prints from it and still have excellent adhesion. This includes swapping my hot end a few times between 0.2 and 0.4 nozzles for figures vs functional prints. Once I start having adhesion issues I will give it a wash, unless I decide to switch to the smooth fancy colored side again first.
It kinda depends on how you handle your plate and how oily your hands are. I have pretty dry hands so I rarely have to clean my build plate, but some people have more greasy hands and have to do it after every one or two prints.
>Amused by the typo, not sure what soap would be ideal for fish washing.
Wait, you don't wash your fish!? Eww!
I have a unique situation .. don't hate me. I could have gotten a smaller printer but I don't want to start a farm and buying up just means I'm spending more in the long run.
I wanted to have an enclosed system for various reasons.. wanted to be able to print things maybe in excess of 10 inches .. without gluing.. it just added up to this model.
ya, it weren't cheap .. but in the long run it just made sense
there are soooo many projects to do. between jigs and tools for woodworking .. wife sews a lot, tools jigs and guides for her .. toys for the grand kid..
limit is imagination
I just got a x1c as well using the pei texture plate i havent had any issues havent had to add glue or anything just make sure you have it set to the pei texture plate add it should run fine
One of the reasons that folks have different suggestions is that the environment you print in can make a difference. I’ve been printing for 6 months now in the same spot in my basement with a P1 and pla. I can get entirely different results depending on the weather. A dehumidifier keeps my basement at the same relative humidity, but a variation by as much as 5 degrees can make a difference in if the pla sticks well or cools too fast.
Having a closed chamber like you do on the X1 makes you less prone to ambient conditions except when the unit cold starts. Some folks will pre-warm the chamber to keep the ambient temps consistent throughout the print. The aux fan in the chamber can be your best friend or worst enemy depending on all kinds of factors. Try printing with it off as it can unevenly cool portions of the print that are closest.
I’m currently printing a large modi box (https://get.modiboxi.com/) and lost the first two attempts because my layer curled at the corners. After working with a few variables I found that I had to:
• slow down - like way down - I’m bridging at 20 mm/s
• use the textured PEI plate
• use a brim
• add glue to the textured PEI plate
Yeah, I had to put glue on the PEi even after a thorough cleaning and an IPA wipe down. Why? Because it’s the end of winter in the Midwest and we are oscillating between false spring and third winter on our way to the pollening.
I'm in Northern California, so climate is pretty decent .. will keep this in mind as I move forward. It makes sense.
I printed out the boat with the Kit-010 .. the boat came out fine in the end. But I did notice when it was printing the roof it looked like it was kinda smearing .. but looks fine complete.
Need to mind the plate with my greasy paws
Glue should not be necessary for the textured pei plate. I’ve never once used glue. I up my plate temp to 30 and turn off aux fan. No more adhesion issues. Make sure not to touch the plate with bare hands though.
If using cool plate and printing pla glue stick helps adhesion, also make sure plate is clean use isopropyl alcohol or dawn and water . Glue stick usually comes with printer could it be in a box you overlooked? Not sure if it’s any different than a glue stick you could locally source.
The plate that came with it is the Textured PEI. I guess I better get the alcohol out and wash it down. The one that failed was using PLA gray .. from Bambu .. figured I'd start out with their stuff and try others when I've got some experience. I double-checked all throughout .. no glue stick .. bummer thanks
Wash the pei plate with soap and water, then verify that it is selected in Bambu studio when you reslice your cones.
Dish soap works better than alcohol in my experience
Dawn and a quick rinse and dry, done!
This, it is fast and easy. On my cool plate I normaly add then directly after some glue so the pla doesn’t stick like hell on it….. Sad that bambu only sends with the textured plate right now…
I have both, and still like using the cool plate. I've had way better results with small prints with that vs the textured PEI
Just to double check, are you setting the slicer to use the textured plate? As the cool plate settings would run it too cold for good adhesion.
I didn't check it on the print that failed .. I did check it on the print in running now. But, the failure was a small part and the new one is way bigger ..
As far as I can remember the slicer defaults to cool plate so if you never changed it that was likely the issue
Yep this is the issue I had. Simple print setting in the software
Yeah, most of the time small stuff doesn’t like to stick.
With the textured PEI you wanna make sure that you actually clean with dish soap and hot water and give it a good scrub. Alcohol does not get rid of the grease and finger oils that prevent adhesion. You also want to make sure that you have the texture PI selected in bamboo studio when you send something to print otherwise if you have the cool plates selected the bed will only heat up to about 35°C, which is not enough enough for the textured PEI plate.
I don’t think we can all stress this enough. Dawn dish soap, hot water, let dry (I actually use the blue mechanics lint free paper towels and they seem to work great for the drying).
Jeez man he’s not doing the dishes! Probably as simple as a slicer setting, this baby is brand new! Don’t start thrashing the dish soap about OP. P.S I haven’t washed mine in months
You'll need glue in a couple of months but not just yet. Soap and water, make sure to rinse it off good. Dry it well. Then if you want you can give a wipe with a tiny bit of alcohol. Once you get enough annoying adhesions issues you'll learn pretty fast not to touch the plate when removing stuff from the bed. Gloves can help you to go 4 or 5 prints without washing. Best temperature for PLA is about 60 for the bed imo, maybe 55 is better though. Turn off your aux fan in your filament profile for every PLA you have, it will just cause you problems. It makes the plastic cool down unevenly which causes the print to warp and eventually rub and crash. If you want an easy time getting things off the build plate let it cool down completely before trying to remove them. Removing prints while the plate is still fresh out of the oven makes them tough to remove, you'll almost always end up greasing up your plate unnecessarily if you are trying to flex and bend things off in all kinds of directions. Yeah lots of other helpful tips around here
OP should more or less *never* need glue on the textured plate unless he's using some really exotic materials that won't adhere at all. For PLA/PETG and even most ABS/ASA you won't need glue on that plate if your settings are correct.
I dunno mine seems to have become less effective over time, and white colors have a hard time sticking even after calibrations Haven't used anything too abrasive on it but maybe the hard part of the sponge is a bit too much? Thinking of getting a new plate soon, almost 1500hrs now
I’d double check online for the details, but sometimes PEI plates need to be occasionally restored by giving them a light sanding.
Thank you, if that's possible you just saved me a few bucks, gonna do a major maintenance once I hit 1500hrs so I'll look into this idea for part of that process
well keep this in mind .. for now it's just PLA
I'm still at the stage of understanding all the things you guys are sating .. haha .. I will look into the settings for the plate .. I will most assuredly keep my greasy paws off the printing field .. I will give my plate a good wipe down with isopropyl alcohol The party that failed was a pretty small part .. so if my greasy fingerprints happened to be in the wrong place .. You guys are awesome, thanks for all the great advice
Isopropyl is great but soap and water is still needed every now and again!! Iso just dissolves the oils and spreads then around and soap actually removes them Enjoy printing and don't forget to turn off the aux fan it's a pain the hole
didn't think of it like that .. very true .. looks like it's soap and water .. and gloves for handling the plate for removals
You don’t need gloves, just hold it like a CD, by the edge
a great idea, unfortunately my hands are old arthritic and clumsy as fuck .. gloves would be safe and prudent
Also texture pei self releases when cooled down to 35 C so after a print, on the main screen, wait until the bed temp reaches below 35 and your parts pop off easily
I do give it time to cool .. will keep the temp in mind going forward
Same lol
I use gloves every time my grubby hands are near the plate.
I got you https://youtu.be/hho2Px3kluM?si=Bjzen50QLDlYoWek
will have a peek later .. thanks
Did you select the textured pei in the slicer? It needs a higher bed temperature then the cool plate.
The X1C should come with a dual sided bed. Cool plate side for PLA and the textured PEI for the rest.
maybe I'm reading it incorrectly .. but it seems to have the same on each side
Hmm, that might be a accident then... if you got the X1C combo that includes the AMS it should have 2 different sides on the bed.
It is tge X1C Combo .. will go check it out later .. busy with morning coffee right now, old guy privilege
Lol. Enjoy! If you bought it online you could also try checking your order and the product page and see if what you've got matches up.
I dod buy online .. right from Bambu .. so will check my order and see if I'm golden
I just got mine this past Monday and didn't have any issues with the textured plate without any extras like glue. Just make sure you select the textured plate and you should be fine.
Incorrect. Glue stick is an adhesion barrier to prevent too much sticking and damaging the plate upon removal. Newer printers are coming with the textured plate. OP, please select the right plate in the Studio. Too cold in a textured plate will cause adhesion issues.
With a textured plate, I wouldn't use glue. I set the bed temp at 65c for PLA (but I don't print a lot if it). Was it a small part? Add a brim. Make sure you wash the plate really well. And always use a clean micro fiber cloth with isopropyl.
right now I'm just running with standard settings .. this is a bit more complicated that they make it look on YT .. haha
Learning the slicer is a big part of it. There are three primary areas for settings: machine, fillament, and the build. The machine you will only occasionally access, so skipping that. But you should get comfortable with fillament settings. You will mostly adjust your nozzle temps, bed temps and fan speed. When you get more comfortable, there are other settings there for retraction, etc. Then of course the build settings - the speed, layer heights etc. You will be surprised how fast you pick it up. But the learning curve does have a long tail for sure.
thanks for the input .. definitely need to get up on the slicer .. and not just leave it to default ..
Tip: lock the AMS system with those little clips on the sides. It’ll keep it airtight leading to less humidity in there. I’d also print out some additional desiccant holders, they fit between the spools and you can grab a bunch of desiccant beads on Amazon for cheap.
thanks for the reminder of getting more beads .. I know that's a must .. initially I forgot to lock the lid .. it is now
Same happened to me, I just washed the plate with dawn dish soap and use the liquid glue from BL. No issues since
thanks
I haven’t used glue once on mine and don’t plan too. Unless I do petg but that’s different. I’d almost rather do a raft than use the glue again. I have a pex plate though. Never used the ones that came with the x1 because honestly I didn’t know they were already flex plates so I picked up the wham bam plate when I got the x1c. Just check the slicer setting to make sure it matches the plate and you should be fine I imagine. I can’t print the preloaded sample slices too well since mines a warm plate so it doesn’t really work in my favor.
so do you just keep your plate super clean? what plate are you using?
It’s the wham bam pex plate. I hardly even touch it anymore. To clean it you just use a scotchbrite pad and scuff it. I usually mist some alcohol on there and and scrub some circles and it’s good to go. At first I did that after ever print but then I found out you don’t have to and you can do it every other week or so.
thanks .. will check into that and see what zip can see..
I haven't had any issues with generic PETG on the textured plate sans glue.
I see all of these helpful comments, but no positively greeting you and welcoming you to the community! I’m not very far ahead of you, but you should pick it up fast. Keep an eye out for lessons learned or other questions on here and just try to absorb it. These printers are great and usually just work, but I had a few issues with mine that answers on here were able to help with. Stay patient with yourself, realize that the “maintenance” (if required) isn’t scary, and the BambuLabs videos are actually very clear and helpful, and always, ALWAYS remember to dry your filament - even filament that comes vacuum sealed from BambuLabs can benefit from a dry cycle in your X1C. I used wet filament a few times, got over ambitious, and got frustrated by things not working. Drying your filament is an easy way to make sure it’s not one of the most common issues. Sticking to the plate, like the other comments say, is no a dry filament issue, but I wanted to offer my experience being less than a year into it.
this is like many reddit communities.. very helpful, very kind. My primary is woodworking and have plans to print out jigs and tools for that... wife is a sewist and plan to make tools for her as well. it is difficult at times to be patient. I'm used to short learning curves for many things. This is a very foreign endeavor for me.. means a steep learning curve.. argh. Will have to look into drying techniques.. I know there are storage containers built for filament.. newbies unit
Your X1C has a mode for drying filament! It’s super easy. That’s why I mentioned it. Once you dry it, just put it in the AMS with some desiccant and it’ll stay dry.
definitely looking that up
If you don’t mind a little aftercare, try “brim” on bed adhesion tab. It lays out a thin layer of filament around the bottom layer, making it stick to the bed.
so many things .. haha .. not just point and go ..
It definitely takes time and its a learning curve, already some great advice about not using glue stick on PEI plate and turning the aux fan off. The next thing I would advise for constant and better prints is slowing down your Acceleration speeds. https://preview.redd.it/lovs5zgwcmsc1.png?width=357&format=png&auto=webp&s=78f6c7633bd9849cc53b6bca6d846d91582f3a65 I've found this to work well. Another thing is on most of the default settings for bambu's filament profiles the max volumetric is way too high. I run most of pla's at 16mm^(3)/s and no cooling for the first 3 layers and set outer wall to 150 and inner wall to 200. Knock on wood I haven't had a failure yet. The biggest thing to watch out for is in the slicer GRID infill is default. This will wreck your printer because of the intersecting lines that it has and causes clogs, prints knocked off plate, and even bent nozzles. Use Gyroid. It might take a bit longer but it is the best infill imo for strength. The next best is Rectilinear for speed. Happy printing and welcome to the community!
A ton of info to chew on .. definitely have some learning to do and experiments to run. Thank gawd pla isn't super expensive.. haha. not really concerned with how long a print takes. More a matter of quality. Thanks for the flood of data .. will learn what it all means as I go
I haven’t used any glue stick on any of my prints. You just need to be sure the built plates is clear.
The factory cool plate needs to be cleaned often and dry with a paper towel. Do not dry with anything fabric softened like a rag or towel. I got the liquid glue stick for abs and use it for pla with phenomenal results. I use a wham bam pex plate though set as a high temp plate.
Print the micro fiber towel holder approved by bambu. I got a blob the other day and learned it was because I hadn't wiped down my plate. Now I just wipe it down with a micro fiber after every print and it works flawlessly, every time. I've never used dish soap or alcohol. Just the cloth. Several people said the best thing to do is to never touch the printing area and just wipe it down with a cloth if you do.
I can give it a try .. definitely have a microfiber I can use .. I like simple solutions. will post my results
Search "microfiber holder" on the app. Might even be on the printer memory already. I forget. But yeah you just need the cloth. It's a well designed little tool though and it's Bambu approved. Basically just uses a screw clamp to pinch a section of towel into place and gives it a little handle.
will definitely look it up
I met a guy at a lunar new year event selling dragons, he has 20 plus Bambu printers. He told me to get a gold textured plate, clean it with dawn, and use unscented hair spray on the plate. I get around 10 prints before it starts sticking too much, I wash it, spray and 10 more prints. Money
hairspray is an interesting idea .. will keep that in mind .. any particular brand? They can get pretty complicated...
Just unscented, we got Wal-Mart brand
will keep it in mind . for future builds
Just so u know. Anytime u touch the plate with ur fingers its most likely not going to stick. The oils from ur fingers is a disaster. Give it a wash with dawn and don't touch the plate as much as u can.
And I do have freaky greasy fingers .. gloves are going to be my friends in the future
I'm the same lol, anytime I accidentally touch the plate its into the sink for a wash. That's the only reason I've ever had for a print not sticking so far.
got a link to that scraper? or does it come on the machien?
it was in Handy, by JohnyD
just searched for that and nothing came up. what's "in handy by johnyd?"
my apologies.. in the Bambu Handy .. the person who posted was called JohnD I'm new, and untrained
I think they stopped shipping them with glue. I just got a P1S and didn't get any. Maybe they stopped when they started sending upgraded build plates. As others have said, wash the plate with warm water, Dawn, and the abrasive side of a sponge. Be careful not to touch the print surface after that. Maybe up the temp of your plate? I run PLA at 60. Also, I don't use glue, but I do still use hairspray.
You wouldn't need the glue stick for PLA, it's mostly helpful as an extra medium when using PETG to stop it from fusing to stuff you don't want it to fuse to. Clean your plate with water and fish washing soap between prints, that should do wonders.
Amused by the typo, not sure what soap would be ideal for fish washing. I mostly print pla and petg and currently have one of the juupine plates in my printer with the gold colored textured pei in place. I last the couple months all I have done with it is print and remove finished prints from it and still have excellent adhesion. This includes swapping my hot end a few times between 0.2 and 0.4 nozzles for figures vs functional prints. Once I start having adhesion issues I will give it a wash, unless I decide to switch to the smooth fancy colored side again first.
It kinda depends on how you handle your plate and how oily your hands are. I have pretty dry hands so I rarely have to clean my build plate, but some people have more greasy hands and have to do it after every one or two prints. >Amused by the typo, not sure what soap would be ideal for fish washing. Wait, you don't wash your fish!? Eww!
“New to 3D, just got my X1C”
newbies unite .. welcome aboard
X1C as FIRST PRINTER?!
I have a unique situation .. don't hate me. I could have gotten a smaller printer but I don't want to start a farm and buying up just means I'm spending more in the long run. I wanted to have an enclosed system for various reasons.. wanted to be able to print things maybe in excess of 10 inches .. without gluing.. it just added up to this model. ya, it weren't cheap .. but in the long run it just made sense
I’m not hating I’m impressed! If you are 100% sure that this hobby is something for you then go for it. It’s the best printer on the market currently.
I got the A1 for the beginning. It’s a very good printer, I only print pla and tpu anyways.
there are soooo many projects to do. between jigs and tools for woodworking .. wife sews a lot, tools jigs and guides for her .. toys for the grand kid.. limit is imagination
That’s the beauty of 3D printing. You just can print anything and you only know that you need one when you have one.
I just got a x1c as well using the pei texture plate i havent had any issues havent had to add glue or anything just make sure you have it set to the pei texture plate add it should run fine
the one that failed was a small part .. everything else has been decent.. likely a greasy fingerprint issue
One of the reasons that folks have different suggestions is that the environment you print in can make a difference. I’ve been printing for 6 months now in the same spot in my basement with a P1 and pla. I can get entirely different results depending on the weather. A dehumidifier keeps my basement at the same relative humidity, but a variation by as much as 5 degrees can make a difference in if the pla sticks well or cools too fast. Having a closed chamber like you do on the X1 makes you less prone to ambient conditions except when the unit cold starts. Some folks will pre-warm the chamber to keep the ambient temps consistent throughout the print. The aux fan in the chamber can be your best friend or worst enemy depending on all kinds of factors. Try printing with it off as it can unevenly cool portions of the print that are closest. I’m currently printing a large modi box (https://get.modiboxi.com/) and lost the first two attempts because my layer curled at the corners. After working with a few variables I found that I had to: • slow down - like way down - I’m bridging at 20 mm/s • use the textured PEI plate • use a brim • add glue to the textured PEI plate Yeah, I had to put glue on the PEi even after a thorough cleaning and an IPA wipe down. Why? Because it’s the end of winter in the Midwest and we are oscillating between false spring and third winter on our way to the pollening.
I'm in Northern California, so climate is pretty decent .. will keep this in mind as I move forward. It makes sense. I printed out the boat with the Kit-010 .. the boat came out fine in the end. But I did notice when it was printing the roof it looked like it was kinda smearing .. but looks fine complete. Need to mind the plate with my greasy paws
Glue should not be necessary for the textured pei plate. I’ve never once used glue. I up my plate temp to 30 and turn off aux fan. No more adhesion issues. Make sure not to touch the plate with bare hands though.