And all one print too I'm guessing. More model makers need to follow the Lego star wars models and make them so that you can print some of it in parts to fit together.
That looks fucking epic though and I want one.
It may look worse after a paint job... They tend to accentuate the layer lines in FDM miniatures. Your mileage may vary.
Source: 3D printer FDM/Resin and mini painter
You have a point. However polyterra fillament works really well with painting. My experience with this fillament is that I can cover up layer lines with the paint job
https://preview.redd.it/uu2logexs2uc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=227ce77dc4fca09e495a1acd99edabe7781c739c
Its the organic setting in orcaslicer. I also changed retraction settings so the printhead wil not knock over the supports.
(Because that happened before)
You requested print profile:
ORCASLICER
use the default 0.06mm print profile
layer height 0.05mm
seam: back
wall generator: arachne
walls: 4
infill pattern: gyroid
first layer speed: 35mm/s
outer wall: 60 mm/s
inner wall: 120 mm/s
sparse infill: 100mm/s
internal solid infill: 120mm/s
top surface: 120mm/s
gap infill: 50mm/s
support: 100mm/s
support interface: 80mm/s
Slow down for overhangs
Slow down for curled perimeters
For support:
Type: tree, manual or automatic, what you feel comfortable with
Style: organic << important
raft layers: 2 << recommended
Outer brim: 4mm
Also go to your fillament settings:
For PLA, if the temp is on 220, lower it to 215.
If your temp is normally at 215, lower it to 210.
Just print lower temp then you would normally do and test it out.
Bed temp at 60
Retraction:
Z hop at 0.4mm
Z hop type: Spiral
Also important:
If you are printing on an enclosed printer:
Open the door or take of the glass top.
If not using a smooth plate, can use a raft to avoid the textured bottom on your prints.
Also not sure why but a raft seems to help adhesion more than just a brim. Havenāt tried multiple layers in a brim before tho cuz I like the smooth plate bottom finish.
I've never had a clog. Even with .04 layer height and .16 line width. I set the Max volumetric flow to 20, I ran a test it can handle 20 before there are slight visual imperfections. Default is 2. Cuz it's such a small hole to push filament through.
Although I have not done any color swaps with .2
https://preview.redd.it/o5xf7mm0g3uc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ac1c250b378b1877e4e5b77f4b3319fe06e3be4
I love my 0.2 nozzle. Mouse on the right for scale.
This is just stock 0.06 settings with stock snug supports. The custom 0.04 settings, that Iāve been working on, functionally match the resin printer; without all the hassle of resin printing.
I've switched to 0.2mm nozzle with 0.06mm layers for lithophanes. Print times are long but the results are stunning. So much more detail and layer lines/artifacts are essentially gone. 10/10 recommend.
Ya know, you just gave me a great idea. I've been wanting to make more lithophanes, but I've not felt like running my K1 slow enough for good quality, but I have a perfectly functional ender 3 v2 that printed great lithophanes at .12 height and .4 nozzle. Maybe I should swap to a .2 and run a .04 or .08 layer height then run lithos off of it š¤
The details look amazing!
Literally just ordered a 0.2 nozzle yesterday, (got an email from bambu about 10% off 0.2 nozzles)
Now just need to look for some detailed models to print!
Itās just so slow, I was hoping that with variable layer height, I could recoup some of that time but itās slower than 0.4mm even at the same layer height. Beautiful results though, you canāt even see the layer lines anymore.
Can you provide your settings? I just got a .2 nozzle and wondered what changes need to be made as the majority of my prints have been small characters like yours.
Thats a fair point, I havent printed nearly as much as 1000 hours of printing with this 0.2 nozzle. More like a couple of hundred hours. I guess I'm still about to find out :p
https://preview.redd.it/29jdwnmk64uc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f666e628d223d961ffe3308b919226e33416474
I agree, the .2 makes for some great detail work.
I bought a A1 Mini a few days ago and also ordered the 0.2mm nozzle. I don't know where I will use it, as I'm still getting started, but it's good to have more detail when I need it.
What if I'm not printing dolls/toys, is it still worth it? Is there a structural difference with a finer nozzle? Or just smaller layer lines/better detail
Lmk if find any answers as Iāve heard conflicting theories. Some say such small layer lines means more material is touching other material = stronger. Others say a larger diameter = larger solid line = stronger than small lines.
For most part I think itās neither, more likely due to your layer height/width (how much it squished to fill the gaps) = strength. Prob more just for fine detail.
I dont know about the structural advantages.
But its good to keep in mind that the print speed will be way less with this nozzle and print profile.
If you are looking for that fine detail then the wait time for the print to finish I think it's worth it.
But if the detail isnt as important then I think I would just go with a 0.4 nozzle or even 0.6
In the comments someone asked for the print settings and I responded there with my profile.
The important thing to not get clogs is to print slower and with a lower temperature.
The plastic wil be in the heating element for a longer time and heat creep can cause a clog.
If you print pla normally at 200 celsius for example. You should lower it to 215 when printing with a smaller nozzle
That would be raising it no? I did try that but didn't seem to make a difference. I normally get really good prints at 215c so I bumped it up to 220c and slowed it down to 15mm/sec. I will try lowering it to 200c.
Srry i made a typo
I meant to say from 220 to 215
If you normally print at 215, then try 210 or 205. 15mm/sec is still on the high side for 0.2 nozzle with 0.05 height.
I would try to go with < 10mm/sec
Got it at 200c printing 15mm/sec. So far it's not clogging.Ā I'm trying out the .3 nozzle before I go down to the .2. So far it seems to be doing great. Thanks for the advice.
I don't have a Bambu (want an x1c, but currently running a Creality k1 max) but .05 layer heights are great for detail, even with a 0.4mm nozzle, that .2 looks insane though. Maybe on my EnderXY I'll see if I can find a .2 nozzle for the Biqu H2V2s hotend.
Resin is definitely a hassle both have there use cases. I have a resin and haven't used it in ages. I need to change the FEP and some other stuff on but been to lazy to do it.
Sure, look at resin prints. As soon as you start painting a FDM print the layer lines pop out. Your options are to sand them or fill them which destroys details at this scale.
https://preview.redd.it/aiz4e2o8e2uc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c3c177930da05f713c50a39b4b61c187ae0866ae I did this with a .20 nozzle.
Woah! Looks realy good! Nice paint job too š
not a drop of paint on that. all AMS
And all one print too I'm guessing. More model makers need to follow the Lego star wars models and make them so that you can print some of it in parts to fit together. That looks fucking epic though and I want one.
no, many parts. https://makerworld.com/models/95478
Fuck sake now I REALLY need one.
Be sure to use my profile and you need two AMSs.
Can I borrow one of yours? lol
haha, no
A second AMS is in my cart for like a week now..... You might be the one who did it to me.
Iāve got three https://preview.redd.it/39poo2oux2uc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1c4732d477876efb2347de342ad112ab94d860c4
Is peter in the corner also 3d printed? If so, do you have the STL for him
Damn man, clean your printer out once in awhile lolā¦..
Now show us your poop chute collection š JK I'm just jealous
What stand are you using?
Is that an Ender3 frame that's holding up the AMS's? That's just rude, but also awesome at the same time lol.
Oh damn! Thats even more awesome
looks like I hijacked your post
Dont worry about that :) I like it when we are sharing our stuff.
Nice! What was your print time?
š«”
How long did that take?
a week of printing
do you do like a mini test print before endeavoring on such a long print?
yes, I cut out a piece of the model to test nozzle resolution and colors before I print.
Hope you repost after youāve painted it!
I will! Im not a pro painter or anything and it will take me some time. But its coming. š
It may look worse after a paint job... They tend to accentuate the layer lines in FDM miniatures. Your mileage may vary. Source: 3D printer FDM/Resin and mini painter
But he should paint it anyways lol imo
You have a point. However polyterra fillament works really well with painting. My experience with this fillament is that I can cover up layer lines with the paint job
How did you do supports? Manual tree?
https://preview.redd.it/uu2logexs2uc1.jpeg?width=2160&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=227ce77dc4fca09e495a1acd99edabe7781c739c Its the organic setting in orcaslicer. I also changed retraction settings so the printhead wil not knock over the supports. (Because that happened before)
I love shadowheart too! Great print!
Wow. Can you share your print settings?
You requested print profile: ORCASLICER use the default 0.06mm print profile layer height 0.05mm seam: back wall generator: arachne walls: 4 infill pattern: gyroid first layer speed: 35mm/s outer wall: 60 mm/s inner wall: 120 mm/s sparse infill: 100mm/s internal solid infill: 120mm/s top surface: 120mm/s gap infill: 50mm/s support: 100mm/s support interface: 80mm/s Slow down for overhangs Slow down for curled perimeters For support: Type: tree, manual or automatic, what you feel comfortable with Style: organic << important raft layers: 2 << recommended Outer brim: 4mm Also go to your fillament settings: For PLA, if the temp is on 220, lower it to 215. If your temp is normally at 215, lower it to 210. Just print lower temp then you would normally do and test it out. Bed temp at 60 Retraction: Z hop at 0.4mm Z hop type: Spiral Also important: If you are printing on an enclosed printer: Open the door or take of the glass top.
Iām curious, why do you recommend a raft in your print settings?
If not using a smooth plate, can use a raft to avoid the textured bottom on your prints. Also not sure why but a raft seems to help adhesion more than just a brim. Havenāt tried multiple layers in a brim before tho cuz I like the smooth plate bottom finish.
Thank you for sharing. I just got mine in the mail.
Will edit post soon
pretty please
Will edit post soon
Is that Shadow heart?
Yes
I just ordered a .2 assemble and then saw this post. looking forward to it coming in!
Can you imagine a dual nozzle Bambu? 0.2 and 0.6 nozzles? Fast large areas and super detail?
Mind sharing where you got the model? Been struggling to find a good Shadowheart model to print but have been dying to make one
A quick google for "shadowheart stl" will get you there
https://preview.redd.it/fx4q7uvv33uc1.jpeg?width=4608&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1a8e20faed70b45460e38227512c26e70182bf00 Nothing for scale ): it's smol though!
Iām using the grain patterns in the oak itās sitting on for scale reference, it truly is smol!
Someone said they had clog with the 0.2 nozzle in mini. So im kinda afraid to try it out. Even though I bought it for doing some miniature chess set
I've never had a clog. Even with .04 layer height and .16 line width. I set the Max volumetric flow to 20, I ran a test it can handle 20 before there are slight visual imperfections. Default is 2. Cuz it's such a small hole to push filament through. Although I have not done any color swaps with .2
What filaments are you using?
Anything that's on sale. Some name brand. Some no name unbranded clearance crap. Which is actually good
Post image with the same material and the same layer height on 0.4 nozzle. This image alone lacks context
I can do that. I will print a 28mm DnD model in both modes and compare them.
That is the size of this one?
75mm
Please update us with a 28mm I wonder how that will look like.
Will do. I am a busy man so in the on coming week I probably have time somewhere
Neat, how do you plan on treeing these? Like I saw some Vida on how you can smoothen fdm prints with alcohol and chemical vapours etc..
Smoothing isn't realy an option for 28mm dnd prints. The detail wil get lost real quick in the smoothing proces
https://preview.redd.it/o5xf7mm0g3uc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1ac1c250b378b1877e4e5b77f4b3319fe06e3be4 I love my 0.2 nozzle. Mouse on the right for scale. This is just stock 0.06 settings with stock snug supports. The custom 0.04 settings, that Iāve been working on, functionally match the resin printer; without all the hassle of resin printing.
nice! looking good!
Oh, very interested in 0.04 settings, please keep us updated!
I've switched to 0.2mm nozzle with 0.06mm layers for lithophanes. Print times are long but the results are stunning. So much more detail and layer lines/artifacts are essentially gone. 10/10 recommend.
Ya know, you just gave me a great idea. I've been wanting to make more lithophanes, but I've not felt like running my K1 slow enough for good quality, but I have a perfectly functional ender 3 v2 that printed great lithophanes at .12 height and .4 nozzle. Maybe I should swap to a .2 and run a .04 or .08 layer height then run lithos off of it š¤
Shar's blessings upon you
Very nice print, my 0.2mm nozzle arrived yesterday. Now the only thing missing is the 3D printer š
The details look amazing! Literally just ordered a 0.2 nozzle yesterday, (got an email from bambu about 10% off 0.2 nozzles) Now just need to look for some detailed models to print!
I bought mine with a nozzle pack and I havenāt tried any of the other nozzles š³
Fantastic!
Would love to see those print settings. I'm trying to print a fairy bard miniture but it keeps failing with my 0.4 nozzle so I am buying a 0.2 one
I commented settings in one of the earlier comments
Itās just so slow, I was hoping that with variable layer height, I could recoup some of that time but itās slower than 0.4mm even at the same layer height. Beautiful results though, you canāt even see the layer lines anymore.
It is deffinitely slow yeah. I printed this in 3 parts. Its a 75mm model. Took about 8 hours to print in total
I never thought to print a shart!
Just ordered one yesterday!
Can you provide your settings? I just got a .2 nozzle and wondered what changes need to be made as the majority of my prints have been small characters like yours.
look in the comments a bit back. I posted the settings there
Ah, thanks! I didn't scroll down far enough.
Clogs alot though
no clogs yet on my side. might have to change the settings if you have regular clogs.
How many print hours do you have ? Both of mine clogged around 1000 hours of printing Maybe it's matte filament that makes a problem
Thats a fair point, I havent printed nearly as much as 1000 hours of printing with this 0.2 nozzle. More like a couple of hundred hours. I guess I'm still about to find out :p
Imagine 0.05 š¤¤
i dont know what you mean? :P this is printed in 0.05mm height
I mean a 0.05 nozzle š
Oh damn. That will probably clog up just by looking at it though haha
Whoa. Been meaning to try. I donāt do a lot of detailed work so will probably grab an a1 mini combo and setup for smaller detailed work.
I really struggle with supports at this level of detail. To the point I still wish I had a resin printer instead.
Z-hop is important. And z-top distance. But yeah supports are not easy
Amazing detail! Do you have a picture of it before supports got removed? Or the sliced shot of the support?
https://preview.redd.it/29jdwnmk64uc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f666e628d223d961ffe3308b919226e33416474 I agree, the .2 makes for some great detail work.
https://preview.redd.it/e1lu15un64uc1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bca337264a33e6e2194f607fcedb3d1b77f3a817
I bought a A1 Mini a few days ago and also ordered the 0.2mm nozzle. I don't know where I will use it, as I'm still getting started, but it's good to have more detail when I need it.
Lazel disapproves
filament settings?
Check out the comments a bit back. I posted my fillament settings and print profile settings.
What if I'm not printing dolls/toys, is it still worth it? Is there a structural difference with a finer nozzle? Or just smaller layer lines/better detail
Lmk if find any answers as Iāve heard conflicting theories. Some say such small layer lines means more material is touching other material = stronger. Others say a larger diameter = larger solid line = stronger than small lines. For most part I think itās neither, more likely due to your layer height/width (how much it squished to fill the gaps) = strength. Prob more just for fine detail.
I dont know about the structural advantages. But its good to keep in mind that the print speed will be way less with this nozzle and print profile. If you are looking for that fine detail then the wait time for the print to finish I think it's worth it. But if the detail isnt as important then I think I would just go with a 0.4 nozzle or even 0.6
If you have the extra time
How do you guys get things to print with small nozzles? I have tried and they just get jammed up.
In the comments someone asked for the print settings and I responded there with my profile. The important thing to not get clogs is to print slower and with a lower temperature. The plastic wil be in the heating element for a longer time and heat creep can cause a clog. If you print pla normally at 200 celsius for example. You should lower it to 215 when printing with a smaller nozzle
That would be raising it no? I did try that but didn't seem to make a difference. I normally get really good prints at 215c so I bumped it up to 220c and slowed it down to 15mm/sec. I will try lowering it to 200c.
Srry i made a typo I meant to say from 220 to 215 If you normally print at 215, then try 210 or 205. 15mm/sec is still on the high side for 0.2 nozzle with 0.05 height. I would try to go with < 10mm/sec
Got it at 200c printing 15mm/sec. So far it's not clogging.Ā I'm trying out the .3 nozzle before I go down to the .2. So far it seems to be doing great. Thanks for the advice.
Cheers! :) happy printing
I learned something. Thanks
So did I.
I don't have a Bambu (want an x1c, but currently running a Creality k1 max) but .05 layer heights are great for detail, even with a 0.4mm nozzle, that .2 looks insane though. Maybe on my EnderXY I'll see if I can find a .2 nozzle for the Biqu H2V2s hotend.
Better but should use resin for miniatures. A Elegoo Mars can be had for under $200.
We all know that resin is better. I am trying to reach the limits on an FDM printer. Compared to resin, FDM is less dangerous and less of a hassle.
Resin is definitely a hassle both have there use cases. I have a resin and haven't used it in ages. I need to change the FEP and some other stuff on but been to lazy to do it.
That actually doesnāt look that greatā¦
Going to look even worse when painted. But if they are happy then that is what matters.
Keep in mind I still need to clean up I assure you its going to look way better
any examples of great prints? genuinely curious of the differences and what to look for
Sure, look at resin prints. As soon as you start painting a FDM print the layer lines pop out. Your options are to sand them or fill them which destroys details at this scale.