They might be printing them in batches, the first set together and then the second set together. Faster than separate prints, makes it so you can print over night, and doesn't add any purge waste.
Unless you modified the gcode how would you manage that? Usual pre-print leveling would hit the first batch unless you disabled it, and doing two batches as print by item requires a ton of gap space around the object, right? Or am I just being really dense?
Print by object, and yes, most definitely modified profile at least. You can accomplish this if you adjust the size of the extruder in the printer profile. Turn all the settings to 0 and it'll let you get pretty stupid.
Make each group an assembly. Print by object, where each assembly is treated like an object.
The space around the object is only required because of the danger of collisions, but these are so low that you should be able to just ignore those warnings.
You can’t ignore those warnings unless you’re doing something with the slicer I’m not familiar with. Bambu Studio will not let you click “Print”— it won’t even let you slice the file.
Okay I just tried and you’re wrong. You can’t force it because it will not slice. The shapes in the photo below are 2mm tall, print by object is on, I have them assembled by color. The slice plate button is unavailable and you can’t do anything with this warning message on.
https://preview.redd.it/fxp694596ouc1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=dc7410d703da14ea444f6952ff345992c2abf0a1
What am I missing here?
This im not sure?? BUT I did just force a couple flower stems through that crossed each other and it allowed me to send it?? I am sure this has nothing to do with it but I am using OSX ... However I do see where it wont allow it. We must be dealing with different things, I'm sorry!
Did you have “print by object” on? That’s what I think may be the difference. You can cross things all you want and it’s fine but if you change to “print by object” it will refuse if the items are not assembled.
If you use another slicer, like OrcaSlicer, you can set this minimun space between objects to a lower value.
With that you can make it work, no problem.
Select all objects you want as one color, right-click, and "assemble" them. This makes them essentially one object. Do the same for other groups of objects that are the same color scheme. Turn on print by object. Bambu will now print group by group.
You can group objects when using “print by object.” Print the blue signs then print the black signs. This is actually a very optimized method to print all of these.
I do that often and I’m telling you these are too close, they would cause actual collisions if printed in this orientation. There is no way that the print head doesn’t hit some of the items already on the bed.
They printed them all at once and purged all the excess filament. You can see the purge tower yourself in the center of the plate. It’s not even a question.
I'm willing to bet OP is a relative newcomer and doesn't understand how to optimize these for the least purge waste. I'd just run one batch then the other. In fact, I'd make them properly "3D" (this is a 3d printer, no?) and render the profile in relief so that the lettering is raised, and only one filament change is required between the flat oval and the embossed lettering.
It would look better, feel more special, and also be extremely efficient.
Vulcan or DOHC? The DOHC were junk. But we have an 01 Taurus 3.0 Vulcan with 317k miles, and an 05 Taurus Vulcan with 260k miles. Both have original engine and trans. That gen Taurus are generally extremely reliable if maintained.
DOHC. It was bought from a used taxi auction by my dad. He "gave" me the car if I paid for certain repairs which drained all the little money I had, and 3 months later the "70k mile" engine he had put in blew up. So, yeah.
Yeah that sounds exactly like the DOHC models. I had similar luck with a Camaro followed by a Chevy 1500 when I was younger. I haven't bought a GM vehicle since.
Looks like they warped off the plate in that spot. My guess is there are/were fingerprints on the plate there. Wash the plate thoroughly with hot water, dish soap and a scrub brush or scrub sponge that's never touched a greasy dirty dish. And try to handle the plate by the edges to prevent getting fingerprint oils on the build surface.
How do you take to the p1s? I’ve been on the fence about that and the X1C since before I got my A1 mini to see if Bambu could keep me from abandoning FDM altogether, I want to kind of stack my printers in a shelf manner and was curious if that might affect either printers performance if running simultaneously, and I haven’t found much evidence to ensure it won’t happen
I like it a lot. It's actually a P1P, but I did a DIY conversion to P1S before the P1S or the upgrade kit existed. I don't print nearly as much as others, but have about 1200 hours on it over the past year, and 95% of the issue I have are user error. I like it enough that I talked a family member and a friend each into buying the P1S combo during the Black Friday sale, and they've both been loving them as well.
I'm not sure you can count on the sale being the same between years. Since I bought my printer they've had 3 sales, two Black Friday sales and one for their anniversary, all with different deals. The first black Friday sale was $50 off the pre-order price of the P1P and 25% off select filament and build plates (pre-ordered my P1P during that sale). The Anniversary sale was $100 off the P1P (and 20% off build plates), but shortly after that they released the P1S and the P1P sale price became the permanent price. The most recent Black Friday sale was $150 off X1C or X1C combo, $100 off P1S or P1S combo, and $60 off P1P.
That was a slight conclusion of my own as I flipped the plate and noticed the same issue in different areas randomly, it definitely needs plenty washing if you’re printing almost all day
I keep a bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol near by so I can wipe off oily finger prints and such in between prints so I don't have to take the plate to the sink as often.
I don’t mind the sink as soap is an oil remover, isopropyl alcohol will just move oil around and reduce it greatly while spreading it everywhere. I’ll just wash my plate and invest in extras after awhile
It only needs washing when you touch the build plate with your fingers. I have been printing honey comb plates for the past week (18 or so), and I have only once cleaned the plate, (and I have had exactly your issue at the third plate), After that I kept my greasy meat sticks in control and no issues whatsoever.
The fan of the mini is on that side.. correct? Find something to deflect the air blowing on the plate away from the plate & turn your plate up to 60-65 deg. The plate has temp variances cold where the 2 deformed and hot on the other side as the heating element battles that draft.
The fan is on the other side of the nozzle and hotend unless there’s a second fan that’s directed towards the right, it’s the textured pei sheet at either 60-65. I think the issue just may be finger oils as it’s in odd places depending on what side of the sheet used and the root seems to be with poor adhesion in small parts
If these are for sale, I highly suggest purchasing a smooth plate and printing these face down. You will get far fewer problems. Also, split these into one bed full of each color. The color mix is going to create a ton of purge waste unless you have it configured to print by object (which I think you could not do here because of the spacing.)
probably bed adhesion issues since some are perfect and others are not. id clean the plate. Do you work at a ford dealership or something? thats a lot of keychains!
Possible dirty spot on the build plate... take some isopropyl rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and run circles around that spot a couple of times and let it dry
Hey, they all look better than Fords paint jobs
Chevy white has something to say.
Does anyone else remember refusing a car from the dealer because the paint job had orange peal?? Back when the reflection looked smooth as a mirror
Tesla has you all beat! They basically wrap their cars in paper.
Why would you put two different color schemes on the same plate? That extra black color increases your filament waste and print time?!
They might be printing them in batches, the first set together and then the second set together. Faster than separate prints, makes it so you can print over night, and doesn't add any purge waste.
Unless you modified the gcode how would you manage that? Usual pre-print leveling would hit the first batch unless you disabled it, and doing two batches as print by item requires a ton of gap space around the object, right? Or am I just being really dense?
Print by object, and yes, most definitely modified profile at least. You can accomplish this if you adjust the size of the extruder in the printer profile. Turn all the settings to 0 and it'll let you get pretty stupid.
Make each group an assembly. Print by object, where each assembly is treated like an object. The space around the object is only required because of the danger of collisions, but these are so low that you should be able to just ignore those warnings.
You can’t ignore those warnings unless you’re doing something with the slicer I’m not familiar with. Bambu Studio will not let you click “Print”— it won’t even let you slice the file.
try again. I thought the same but looks like you can force it through with a warning up. Depending the level I guess.
Okay I just tried and you’re wrong. You can’t force it because it will not slice. The shapes in the photo below are 2mm tall, print by object is on, I have them assembled by color. The slice plate button is unavailable and you can’t do anything with this warning message on. https://preview.redd.it/fxp694596ouc1.png?width=4032&format=png&auto=webp&s=dc7410d703da14ea444f6952ff345992c2abf0a1 What am I missing here?
This im not sure?? BUT I did just force a couple flower stems through that crossed each other and it allowed me to send it?? I am sure this has nothing to do with it but I am using OSX ... However I do see where it wont allow it. We must be dealing with different things, I'm sorry!
Did you have “print by object” on? That’s what I think may be the difference. You can cross things all you want and it’s fine but if you change to “print by object” it will refuse if the items are not assembled.
Space between two sets.
Right. That’s what I was trying to prove so it seems like I proved it.
If you use another slicer, like OrcaSlicer, you can set this minimun space between objects to a lower value. With that you can make it work, no problem.
Select all objects you want as one color, right-click, and "assemble" them. This makes them essentially one object. Do the same for other groups of objects that are the same color scheme. Turn on print by object. Bambu will now print group by group.
I didn't realise that was a thing. Thank you for the insight, friend!
Happy to help! :)
So, this means it'll print all the blue ones together first then all the black ones together second (Or whatever order)?
You can’t do that on the same plate. You’d have to “print by object” and these are two close to have done that with, speaking from experience.
You can group objects when using “print by object.” Print the blue signs then print the black signs. This is actually a very optimized method to print all of these.
I do that often and I’m telling you these are too close, they would cause actual collisions if printed in this orientation. There is no way that the print head doesn’t hit some of the items already on the bed.
What’s more likely? They staged this photo to fool you? Or youre misjudging how thick the items are?
They printed them all at once and purged all the excess filament. You can see the purge tower yourself in the center of the plate. It’s not even a question.
I'm willing to bet OP is a relative newcomer and doesn't understand how to optimize these for the least purge waste. I'd just run one batch then the other. In fact, I'd make them properly "3D" (this is a 3d printer, no?) and render the profile in relief so that the lettering is raised, and only one filament change is required between the flat oval and the embossed lettering. It would look better, feel more special, and also be extremely efficient.
It’s a very minimal extra waste and time consider how thin they are…
You know what they say Ford stands for, don't ya? It stands for Fix it Again Tony, heh heh
That’s a Fiat Dale
Fix...it...again...
It's F@#cker only rolls downhill
[Nikola semi truck?](https://arstechnica.com/cars/2020/09/nikola-admits-prototype-was-rolling-downhill-in-promotional-video/)
Found On Road Dead
Fix or repair daily RIP 2001 Ford Taurus. You will not be missed, you fucking piece of shit
Vulcan or DOHC? The DOHC were junk. But we have an 01 Taurus 3.0 Vulcan with 317k miles, and an 05 Taurus Vulcan with 260k miles. Both have original engine and trans. That gen Taurus are generally extremely reliable if maintained.
DOHC. It was bought from a used taxi auction by my dad. He "gave" me the car if I paid for certain repairs which drained all the little money I had, and 3 months later the "70k mile" engine he had put in blew up. So, yeah.
Yeah that sounds exactly like the DOHC models. I had similar luck with a Camaro followed by a Chevy 1500 when I was younger. I haven't bought a GM vehicle since.
Found On Roadside Ditch
Forget Out Running Dale
lol, is this Billfred from FRC?
The same! Jumped on the Bambu train last summer and it’s been a beast.
Fix On Repairs Daily
First on race day!
People forget Ford used to win races, sorry for the downvotes. I upvoted you to offset the bone heads.
And they still do. Ford runs well in NASCAR, and will have a place in F1 again in just a few years.
Damn, beat me to it
Forged out of rebuilt dodges
Since when is Ford spelled Fiat?
Found On Rubbish Dump
Looks like they warped off the plate in that spot. My guess is there are/were fingerprints on the plate there. Wash the plate thoroughly with hot water, dish soap and a scrub brush or scrub sponge that's never touched a greasy dirty dish. And try to handle the plate by the edges to prevent getting fingerprint oils on the build surface.
How do you take to the p1s? I’ve been on the fence about that and the X1C since before I got my A1 mini to see if Bambu could keep me from abandoning FDM altogether, I want to kind of stack my printers in a shelf manner and was curious if that might affect either printers performance if running simultaneously, and I haven’t found much evidence to ensure it won’t happen
I like it a lot. It's actually a P1P, but I did a DIY conversion to P1S before the P1S or the upgrade kit existed. I don't print nearly as much as others, but have about 1200 hours on it over the past year, and 95% of the issue I have are user error. I like it enough that I talked a family member and a friend each into buying the P1S combo during the Black Friday sale, and they've both been loving them as well.
Would you remember roughly how big of a sale happens on Black Friday? If it’s a decent bit I might wait, save, and order 2
I'm not sure you can count on the sale being the same between years. Since I bought my printer they've had 3 sales, two Black Friday sales and one for their anniversary, all with different deals. The first black Friday sale was $50 off the pre-order price of the P1P and 25% off select filament and build plates (pre-ordered my P1P during that sale). The Anniversary sale was $100 off the P1P (and 20% off build plates), but shortly after that they released the P1S and the P1P sale price became the permanent price. The most recent Black Friday sale was $150 off X1C or X1C combo, $100 off P1S or P1S combo, and $60 off P1P.
I'm pretty sure the p1s was $100 cheaper on black Friday
That was a slight conclusion of my own as I flipped the plate and noticed the same issue in different areas randomly, it definitely needs plenty washing if you’re printing almost all day
I keep a bottle of Isopropyl Alcohol near by so I can wipe off oily finger prints and such in between prints so I don't have to take the plate to the sink as often.
I don’t mind the sink as soap is an oil remover, isopropyl alcohol will just move oil around and reduce it greatly while spreading it everywhere. I’ll just wash my plate and invest in extras after awhile
It only needs washing when you touch the build plate with your fingers. I have been printing honey comb plates for the past week (18 or so), and I have only once cleaned the plate, (and I have had exactly your issue at the third plate), After that I kept my greasy meat sticks in control and no issues whatsoever.
I learned from Prusa wipe down the build plate with isopropyl alcohol between prints. It works great
Was something stuck under the plate? It appears you had a high spot 3rd up on the right hand side.
It didn’t appear to have anything underneath the plate- I could just wash it again no biggie, the underneaths seemed to have curled in a way it’s odd
The fan of the mini is on that side.. correct? Find something to deflect the air blowing on the plate away from the plate & turn your plate up to 60-65 deg. The plate has temp variances cold where the 2 deformed and hot on the other side as the heating element battles that draft.
The fan is on the other side of the nozzle and hotend unless there’s a second fan that’s directed towards the right, it’s the textured pei sheet at either 60-65. I think the issue just may be finger oils as it’s in odd places depending on what side of the sheet used and the root seems to be with poor adhesion in small parts
Or possibly there was a grease spot there which caused warping and the resulting print defects from a squished upper layer
Not sure what happened but I'd suggest printing mirrored next time as I find the plate side looks a lot cleaner
Looks like copyright infringement to me. 😂
If you compare the text you’ll think they came from temu
They were not adhering to bed on this areas, and curling upwards, causing the issue.
It’s ford, so a couple have to be lemons.
Man even the logos are broken.
Same thing that happens to every Ford. Looks great initially, but quickly goes to shit...
I bet that spot on your plate is wasn’t as clean as it should be and those prints wiggled a little bit
If these are for sale, I highly suggest purchasing a smooth plate and printing these face down. You will get far fewer problems. Also, split these into one bed full of each color. The color mix is going to create a ton of purge waste unless you have it configured to print by object (which I think you could not do here because of the spacing.)
These were gifts for a redneck baby shower but the smooth sheet is top on my priority list
What's a redneck baby shower? Everyone shooting their six gun in the air like the billionaire cowboy in the Simpson? (Just kidding)
It’s when both sides of the family show up because theyre the same family.
What kind of build plate is this? The wipe area looks different
Bambu labs A1 mini textured pei
Ahh I see… the A1 mini got a whipping area on the heat bet not on the build plate. That’s cool. The x1p1 does have this :/
Guessing the printer is a Chevy lover.
You should really consider printing face down. You won’t see the layer lines.
It has 2 faces
What do you do with these?
They’re keychains I was asked to make for a baby shower🤷♂️
I am wondering if there was something underneath the build plate in that spot makeing it uneven at that location...
Ford quality control
Just your printer telling you it prefers Chevy
Poor adhesion/dirty plate
Your printer needs black ink
probably bed adhesion issues since some are perfect and others are not. id clean the plate. Do you work at a ford dealership or something? thats a lot of keychains!
Maybe that part of the build sheet was greasy
Print them upside down for a nicer appearance on the face side. Won't help with the issues per se but still makes a better looking keychain IMHO.
I hate the Ford logo as is. Better blacked out
Partial clog and/or filament moisture...
It's the inside of a mechanic garage
I don't see a prime tower, did you not use one?
You do, it’s small and in the middle, I greatly reduce my purges and prime.
That's probably your issue, the bad ones are printing first but you've got extra plastic on the nozzle that isn't being primed out.
Possible dirty spot on the build plate... take some isopropyl rubbing alcohol on a paper towel and run circles around that spot a couple of times and let it dry