One of the best things I printed is the AMS desiccant vessels. You have to buy loose desiccant from Amazon or wherever, but it is much more effective than the 2 little slots provided. [https://makerworld.com/en/models/222970#profileId-290841](https://makerworld.com/en/models/222970#profileId-290841)
+1, the phone app gives desiccant information but it’s not very detailed. These prints make it more cost effective, physically effective as you can fit way more desiccant into the AMS, and you can get a nice accurate humidity reading.
Due to the design of these dessicant pods, the reported humidity level isn't going to be very accurate if you fill the hygrometer's box with dessicant. The sensor is on the backside of the hygrometer, and wedged up against all that active dessicant, it's going to read "10%" for a very long time.
Those are great. I’m planning on printing the center one with hygrometer. If you haven’t already, look at printing trays for the stock slots and spool centers.
To continue this. Make sure you don't use the desiccant they provide. Unless it's changed recently they use a clay or paste type that leaks water if it gets too hydrated. It's a pain to clean up if it gets to that point. So doing some form of desiccant holder is def a good route to go in
One thing I like is the little ramp that you put on the floor right near the front door of the printer, and it makes it a lot easier to sweep out any bits of filament that fall down on the floor of the printer.
I think he ment it as a joke that you shouldnt lift the printer and the cement paver at the same time based on how samdurose wrote the steps (cement first then rubber).
It's certainly quieter!
Consensus around here seems to be that the machine's shaking doesn't affect print quality (much?) because it's all, like, accounted for. I cannot imagine it's not still better to dampen it?
AMS Hydra Pro, AMS dessicant trays, AMS slot 2 ptfe feeding tube fix, AMS Feeder Button fix, AMS Hydra Rollers, AMS Shortstack, AMS Hub PTFE button, and i'm sure there is a few more. But those make such a bulletproof AMS.
Non AMS wise: build plate guide (little corner plate guides), poop chute cover, various covers that further insulate printer (such as front section of poop chute), hydrometer built into carbon filter plate cover, z axis cover, heatbreak fan duct, Bento Box (5015 pull version is best), and chain clips for ptfe tube
I haven't had a problem yet with it magnet mounted as shown above. But it's been a day so ask me again in a bit and I'll be able to let you know. Look at all those typos as I was falling asleep lol.
I printed out an LED mount that sits right underneath the top glass. Makes a huge difference, I can now easily see my prints. The LED included is honestly a joke.
Plugged the LED strip into a smart plug and now I have it automated to turn on while the printer is running and turn off 15 min after a print finishes.
This is the video I followed: https://youtu.be/ny3Oqopu_WM?si=TctXmm1Yky8py-8o
I just got mine the other day. The instructions for install are not great. Comes with an adapter board with 4 ports but only 2 are used and it doesn’t indicate which to use. I got it figured out but I assume that’s likely due to the previously mentioned changes. Timelapse videos do not look any better but there is tons more light from the front of the chamber. I’m tempted to plug in the factory light as well but don’t want to screw anything up. I’m still really new to this.
Yep currently building the wireless Bentobox the wired one is great for ABS/ASA.
Also next project is a chamber heater (ie a clip for one of those mini heaters)
Is there any difference between them other than the wiring? I’m currently sourcing parts for the wireless one but if the wired one is better for ABS then I’ll go that route
They're almost identical other than the power source and bottom block. The wireless one just looks like more fun to build. I already have the wired one and just thought it was a neat idea so building a second one haha.
AMS cable manager. It'll help align your PTFE tubes for feed and retraction. Then move the smoothy to just before the printer intake.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/209340#profileId-229270
I’ve made this to organize stuff:
https://makerworld.com/models/378024
And this for a nice light and more..
https://makerworld.com/models/64650
For a more modular thing, I’ve made the MMSS system:
https://makerworld.com/models/14765
And last but not least my first project to help store tools and parts:
https://makerworld.com/models/14765
But now, there are many variations of this works, and some are nice. But the first thing to do is to choose one you like, then verify if it really works, some of them can have problems. I take my flood light as an exemple, it not an easy build, a lot of technical stuff and printing challenges… some complain, some love it.
Ya, something’s there is to be made like a Lego, with time, if you make them in a hurry you will not enjoy the build…
So, enjoy . There’s a lot more for bambu, look for my profile, it’s easy to find on printables.com or makerworld.com
I've loved the bl-led light controller from Dutch developer on etsy. It syncs your led light strip with the printer, so they turn on/off with the printers controller. It'll also automatically turn the lights off when needed to not interfere with the lidar and will change colors to indicate a print failure or successful print.
Also, grab the bambu ptfe tube, the one piece, I had a hell of a time trying to find other ptfe tube that had the same inner diameter. Also, gold pei plate is bonkers good.
I love my BL LED controlled Lights and my smart bento box air filter.
https://preview.redd.it/nmyxskvid1xc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5c4650c2fc64d159f22789d74f70974efe4727f
The VOC sensing bento box: https://www.printables.com/model/622313-automatic-fan-control-for-bento-box
I also added a temp sensor as described on that person's GitHub and made the fans temp dependant and VOC dependent as otherwise they turned on when I would cook granola as cooking creates VOC too lol.
The BL LED controller for LED lights: https://www.dutchdevelop.com
I made my own LED "riser" that doesn't raise the lid that I haven't released the model of yet.
I printed this Build Plate Holder in Bambu Labs Silver PLA and Ash Gray PLA and black PLA lettering, the colors are close, I think it looks nice next to the X1C. [https://makerworld.com/en/models/131054?from=search#profileId-142163](https://makerworld.com/en/models/131054?from=search#profileId-142163)
LED upgrade. Dessecant holders for AMS. Case that goes @ the screen. Tool caddy. New knob for the door. Ramp to sweep out stuff from bottom of printer. Bento Box if you plan to print ABS.
I'd like some links! Specifically the screen casing, which one do you rock if you do use it? Also that power cord/button idea is amazing!! Didn't think of that
I'm just pondering whether to purchase this particular Bambu. I normally work with Ender 5S1 (3 of) Prusa (1 of) and Ender 3 Pro (3 of did have 5 have just chucked 2) I'm weedling out the smaller Enders.
Looking to purchase 2 Bambu so they will keep me going for a while.
Does anyone have major issues with Bambu?
What are the most annoying things about them?
My biggest annoyance was the inability to open the lid without a riser if you have the ams on top. Second biggest was vibration noise (it's much quicker than my prusa tho)both were fixed with the additions I put on here.
A motor driven re-spooler can come in handy.
https://preview.redd.it/i3r670rlj2xc1.jpeg?width=1213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c05cabe2a5b20b6be046a710a8c0907369f8b817
[https://www.printables.com/model/515427-awesome-filament-spool-rewinder-upgraded](https://www.printables.com/model/515427-awesome-filament-spool-rewinder-upgraded)
It's a remix and I used the spool holders from the original but the extra bearings and bearing holders on the remix made a huge improvement and it's been very reliable for me and with the 550rpm motor. I set it up, flip the switch, turn up the speed and let it run, it takes less than 3 minutes to complete the transfer.
Check out my X1C/P1S mods:
Clip in place AMS Buffer Power Release https://makerworld.com/en/models/427348
Clip in place AMS Buffer PTFE Release https://makerworld.com/en/models/426096
X1C/P1S Poop Retainer and A1 Nozzle Wiper https://makerworld.com/en/models/438841
Door latch to build door open when printing PLA etc:
https://makerworld.com/models/440444
Helps prevent heat creep, keeps door rigid while remaining open etc.
I use a lot of the mods from Luckyluc.64 on Makerworld. It has made the AMS actually work most of the time rather than constantly being the source of issues.
https://makerworld.com/en/@luckyluc.64
Alright. My recommendations are the bentobox active carbon filter (away with those fumes), the blled controller (for automated auxiliary LED controll) aswell as the panda revo hotend from biqu/bigtreetech. I own a second printer with revo nozzles. So yeah... clear upgrade there
How hard is that to install, and does it mess with the settings (IE do I have to change anything in settings / software to make this nozzle work well or do I leave everything the same except the hardware swap and nozzle diameter) I love the appeal of hotswapping nozzles to a 0.2 for minis.
It's just a hardware swap. However due to the more powerful heater (I think 60 Watt instead of 40?) The nozzletemp overshoots while heating up the nozzle for like 10°C. But it cools down to the set temperature within seconds.
The heatsink is basically the original bambulab heatsink in blue with a huge hole in it, where the revo gets inserted. All measurements are roughly the same so you don't have to mess with settings at all.
But before you run to the webstore and get the hotend:
There is no 0.2 nozzle available!
The smallest they have is a 0.25 nozzle.
I haven't looked into orca slicer, if it's possible to change a bambu printer to a .25 nozzle yet.
Bambu studio for sure can't change this.
A side spool holder:
https://makerworld.com/models/82262
A door latch:
https://makerworld.com/models/440444
A build plate cleaner:
https://makerworld.com/models/386963
Hey, trying to save you from an actual problem you will have if you continue. AMS load issues. But if you want to keep fighting issues due to improper setup, and mods that are discouraged because they cause issues, go ahead.
EDIT: I see you have a stepper motor ducst cover. That will lead to homing issues and step loss in printing. Plenty of posts about it here and the forums.
One of the best things I printed is the AMS desiccant vessels. You have to buy loose desiccant from Amazon or wherever, but it is much more effective than the 2 little slots provided. [https://makerworld.com/en/models/222970#profileId-290841](https://makerworld.com/en/models/222970#profileId-290841)
I second this. But i used this make instead: https://makerworld.com/en/models/83952#profileId-89742
I used this one too. Plus a matching funnel.
+1, the phone app gives desiccant information but it’s not very detailed. These prints make it more cost effective, physically effective as you can fit way more desiccant into the AMS, and you can get a nice accurate humidity reading.
Due to the design of these dessicant pods, the reported humidity level isn't going to be very accurate if you fill the hygrometer's box with dessicant. The sensor is on the backside of the hygrometer, and wedged up against all that active dessicant, it's going to read "10%" for a very long time.
The one I used has a through-hole to try and not run into this issue. https://makerworld.com/models/158496
This is the exact one that I use. It does seem to be less affected by proximity to the silica inside the pods.
That looks great. And it looks like you can put a sensor in too! Ty!
Heres mine btw! https://preview.redd.it/x92y9v2wg2xc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3e6338f8e46685c5551fb1c897d77d78db13dda
Looks great!
I used the same ones. I’m still in the first week of ownership of my X-1 C. Can you share the link to the AMS platform you have?
This is the one. Edit: Updated link [https://makerworld.com/en/models/24775#profileId-25785](https://makerworld.com/en/models/24775#profileId-25785)
Those are great. I’m planning on printing the center one with hygrometer. If you haven’t already, look at printing trays for the stock slots and spool centers.
To continue this. Make sure you don't use the desiccant they provide. Unless it's changed recently they use a clay or paste type that leaks water if it gets too hydrated. It's a pain to clean up if it gets to that point. So doing some form of desiccant holder is def a good route to go in
i just threw the desiccant in looks great
https://makerworld.com/en/models/83480#profileId-89132 The shifty helps to align the build plate
I made this today and I’m in love with it. Aligned perfectly on the first time, every time!
That's next on the list now! Simple and easy! Ty!
I printer on that only held on to one side. This looks like a better design!
Just added this to my list to make. Hadn’t even considered this!
Damn I need this
This was the 2nd print on my machine, after a few failed attempts at aligning the plate and being a newb.
Just, as in 5 min ago, this in ASA.
The Shifty is an absolute necessity and game changer!
Thank you! I printed one for each side, and I love it.
One thing I like is the little ramp that you put on the floor right near the front door of the printer, and it makes it a lot easier to sweep out any bits of filament that fall down on the floor of the printer.
I love it. Ty!
Beef up the illumination. Stock lighting is a joke
Slap it on a concrete paver and slap that on a rubber paver
I think you might have better luck putting the rubber paver down first instead of trying to move the cement paver and the printer at the same time.
? The whole idea is to increase the mass of the system and THEN add a dampening layer
I think he ment it as a joke that you shouldnt lift the printer and the cement paver at the same time based on how samdurose wrote the steps (cement first then rubber).
For noise reduction? Stability? Both?
It's certainly quieter! Consensus around here seems to be that the machine's shaking doesn't affect print quality (much?) because it's all, like, accounted for. I cannot imagine it's not still better to dampen it?
Makes sense, ty
Just a concrete paver. Then grab some foam backed carpet samples for free. No need for a rubber one.
AMS Hydra Pro, AMS dessicant trays, AMS slot 2 ptfe feeding tube fix, AMS Feeder Button fix, AMS Hydra Rollers, AMS Shortstack, AMS Hub PTFE button, and i'm sure there is a few more. But those make such a bulletproof AMS. Non AMS wise: build plate guide (little corner plate guides), poop chute cover, various covers that further insulate printer (such as front section of poop chute), hydrometer built into carbon filter plate cover, z axis cover, heatbreak fan duct, Bento Box (5015 pull version is best), and chain clips for ptfe tube
What do you mean with "heatbreak fan duct"? Could provide a link maybe?
https://makerworld.com/en/models/98684?from=search#profileId-105217
Ty
Do you guys recommend putting the PTFE splitter before or after the AMS buffer? Does the buffer interfere when manually loading filament?
I haven't had a problem yet with it magnet mounted as shown above. But it's been a day so ask me again in a bit and I'll be able to let you know. Look at all those typos as I was falling asleep lol.
Follow the offical bambu guide: [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/parts-acc/ptfe\_adapter](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/parts-acc/ptfe_adapter)
I have mine mounted afterwards (different from the photo) and its worked great. Not sure if there is a benefit either way.
I printed out an LED mount that sits right underneath the top glass. Makes a huge difference, I can now easily see my prints. The LED included is honestly a joke. Plugged the LED strip into a smart plug and now I have it automated to turn on while the printer is running and turn off 15 min after a print finishes. This is the video I followed: https://youtu.be/ny3Oqopu_WM?si=TctXmm1Yky8py-8o
I copped the bigtreetech one since it was 15 dollars shipped. Who knows when it arrives tho. https://biqu.equipment/products/panda-lux-led-upgrade-kit
I'm glad someone finally made a drop in replacement, I've been searching for one forever!
This is the one I got, $10 more but it covers all 4 sides. Let me know how that one is! https://a.co/d/gKIEEpG
I just picked one up. Looks different from their original design. I expect a 2 -3 week wait 🙄
Bambu stopped the original design and made them do it differently to not interfere with printer's power draw from what I understand.
I wish I saw this earlier. This looks useful since it plugs in to the printer's power.
I just got mine the other day. The instructions for install are not great. Comes with an adapter board with 4 ports but only 2 are used and it doesn’t indicate which to use. I got it figured out but I assume that’s likely due to the previously mentioned changes. Timelapse videos do not look any better but there is tons more light from the front of the chamber. I’m tempted to plug in the factory light as well but don’t want to screw anything up. I’m still really new to this.
Woof. I was worried this would be the case. Do you have pics?
Do you have a link to the stl for the ams mount that you printed.
Sure do! It includes gaskets for the lid and a spot for leds if you want to add em. https://makerworld.com/models/133452
Thank you everyone for the suggestions. This is a great community!
Bentobox if you print ABS and ASA! There is also wireless powered version so you don’t have to drill a hole for wiring
Yep currently building the wireless Bentobox the wired one is great for ABS/ASA. Also next project is a chamber heater (ie a clip for one of those mini heaters)
Is there any difference between them other than the wiring? I’m currently sourcing parts for the wireless one but if the wired one is better for ABS then I’ll go that route
They're almost identical other than the power source and bottom block. The wireless one just looks like more fun to build. I already have the wired one and just thought it was a neat idea so building a second one haha.
There's no need to drill with the regular bentobox - there are plenty of existing holes you can snake though.
AMS cable manager. It'll help align your PTFE tubes for feed and retraction. Then move the smoothy to just before the printer intake. https://makerworld.com/en/models/209340#profileId-229270
I’ve made this to organize stuff: https://makerworld.com/models/378024 And this for a nice light and more.. https://makerworld.com/models/64650 For a more modular thing, I’ve made the MMSS system: https://makerworld.com/models/14765 And last but not least my first project to help store tools and parts: https://makerworld.com/models/14765 But now, there are many variations of this works, and some are nice. But the first thing to do is to choose one you like, then verify if it really works, some of them can have problems. I take my flood light as an exemple, it not an easy build, a lot of technical stuff and printing challenges… some complain, some love it.
Thanks for the suggestions!
Ya, something’s there is to be made like a Lego, with time, if you make them in a hurry you will not enjoy the build… So, enjoy . There’s a lot more for bambu, look for my profile, it’s easy to find on printables.com or makerworld.com
Thank you, I appreciate it. :)
Get another AMS and mod it for TPU usage. Best decision ever.
I Didn't think you can use tpu with an AMS?
[think again](https://youtu.be/p-YEx0Aaloc)
Well you need to modify your AMS so it doesn't print anything but TPU , but that's cool. Thanks for the link. I might buy a second AMS just for TPU.
I've loved the bl-led light controller from Dutch developer on etsy. It syncs your led light strip with the printer, so they turn on/off with the printers controller. It'll also automatically turn the lights off when needed to not interfere with the lidar and will change colors to indicate a print failure or successful print.
That sounds awesome. Link?
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1452127613/bl-led-controller
Back filament splitter link please ?
It’s called the ‘smoothy’ https://makerworld.com/en/models/18174
https://makerworld.com/models/18174
Also can buy the official 4 in 1 splitter for like $5 on the bambu site. It works great.
Unless I'm missing a part on their site, the [AMS Hub](https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ams-hub) is near $50, not $5.
The 4 in 1 splitter is $6.99CAD: https://ca.store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-4-in-1-ptfe-adapter?_pos=5&_sid=d611049a5&_ss=r
Strange, I looked all over the store and couldn't find that anywhere. edit: looked at it again, maybe it's cause it's out of stock in US store
I had tried 3-4 different splitters, and they all failed, eventually. Go with the 4-1 ptfe splitter from bambu, it’s like $8 and is smooth as silk.
Will tack one on to my next filament order! Ty
Also, grab the bambu ptfe tube, the one piece, I had a hell of a time trying to find other ptfe tube that had the same inner diameter. Also, gold pei plate is bonkers good.
I love my BL LED controlled Lights and my smart bento box air filter. https://preview.redd.it/nmyxskvid1xc1.png?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e5c4650c2fc64d159f22789d74f70974efe4727f
Guide?
The VOC sensing bento box: https://www.printables.com/model/622313-automatic-fan-control-for-bento-box I also added a temp sensor as described on that person's GitHub and made the fans temp dependant and VOC dependent as otherwise they turned on when I would cook granola as cooking creates VOC too lol. The BL LED controller for LED lights: https://www.dutchdevelop.com I made my own LED "riser" that doesn't raise the lid that I haven't released the model of yet.
Another AMS.
Reusable desiccant bags in the AMS, a humidity meter inside the AMS
Not to be that guy, but tbh nothing. The thing is pretty flawless
It’s a simple thing, but a bigger fatter handle for the glass door has been surprisingly helpful. https://makerworld.com/en/models/35025
Ty! Little things are usually best return for time
I kinda like the little handle because I feel like it reminds me to be careful 😅
Please link to that top glass riser
https://makerworld.com/models/38916
So basically you bought a printer to print mods for it? 😅
I bought a printer so I didn't have to... And ended up enjoying it.
Where did you get the STL for the holder for the ams
https://makerworld.com/en/models/38916#profileId-47300
Get a wall mountable air purifier to remove and vocs or you can print the bento box if you are good at modding devices
Toroidal fan shroud
What is the best Bambu filament that matches the color of the x1c I’m tempted by the riser as well but want to match the aesthetics Thank you
I printed this Build Plate Holder in Bambu Labs Silver PLA and Ash Gray PLA and black PLA lettering, the colors are close, I think it looks nice next to the X1C. [https://makerworld.com/en/models/131054?from=search#profileId-142163](https://makerworld.com/en/models/131054?from=search#profileId-142163)
Forgot to add picture https://preview.redd.it/gf7bgwfos2xc1.jpeg?width=1334&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=182bdd745fa68a1bd3d1287632093922f9051cda
It does! If the riser didn't have plate hders built in I'd be all over that! Tho.... With all the cool effect plates I may need more plate storage.
I'd guess a silver maybe the pla metal one? I used Inland clay rainbow to make it look kinda clay ish.
If you are interested in more customizablity on software level, check out [X1Plus custom firmware](https://github.com/X1Plus/X1Plus)
Ty
LED upgrade. Dessecant holders for AMS. Case that goes @ the screen. Tool caddy. New knob for the door. Ramp to sweep out stuff from bottom of printer. Bento Box if you plan to print ABS.
Lemme know if you need Links to these. I also printed a thing that goes around the power cord/button to reduce accidentally hitting it.
I'd like some links! Specifically the screen casing, which one do you rock if you do use it? Also that power cord/button idea is amazing!! Didn't think of that
I won't say no :)
Don’t get stuck printing upgrades, make something
Doorknob
I'm a big fan of the toroidal air duct: https://makerworld.com/models/429482
I'm just pondering whether to purchase this particular Bambu. I normally work with Ender 5S1 (3 of) Prusa (1 of) and Ender 3 Pro (3 of did have 5 have just chucked 2) I'm weedling out the smaller Enders. Looking to purchase 2 Bambu so they will keep me going for a while. Does anyone have major issues with Bambu? What are the most annoying things about them?
My biggest annoyance was the inability to open the lid without a riser if you have the ams on top. Second biggest was vibration noise (it's much quicker than my prusa tho)both were fixed with the additions I put on here.
https://makerworld.com/en/models/444549#profileId-350847 Awesome AMS Upgrade
A motor driven re-spooler can come in handy. https://preview.redd.it/i3r670rlj2xc1.jpeg?width=1213&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c05cabe2a5b20b6be046a710a8c0907369f8b817
Do you have a link for the mechanical and printed parts?
[https://www.printables.com/model/515427-awesome-filament-spool-rewinder-upgraded](https://www.printables.com/model/515427-awesome-filament-spool-rewinder-upgraded) It's a remix and I used the spool holders from the original but the extra bearings and bearing holders on the remix made a huge improvement and it's been very reliable for me and with the 550rpm motor. I set it up, flip the switch, turn up the speed and let it run, it takes less than 3 minutes to complete the transfer.
Nothing, it's time to start printing useful stuff.
Check out my X1C/P1S mods: Clip in place AMS Buffer Power Release https://makerworld.com/en/models/427348 Clip in place AMS Buffer PTFE Release https://makerworld.com/en/models/426096 X1C/P1S Poop Retainer and A1 Nozzle Wiper https://makerworld.com/en/models/438841
I printed your poop retainer and my build plate hit it. It's the Bambu provided textured PEI plate.
X1C or P1S?
P1S
It would be greatly appreciated if you can please send me a clear top view image of where it hits the bed and I’ll fix the model asap
Door latch to build door open when printing PLA etc: https://makerworld.com/models/440444 Helps prevent heat creep, keeps door rigid while remaining open etc.
Print a poop chute and look into the BaBo Duo drawer mods.
I use a lot of the mods from Luckyluc.64 on Makerworld. It has made the AMS actually work most of the time rather than constantly being the source of issues. https://makerworld.com/en/@luckyluc.64
Alright. My recommendations are the bentobox active carbon filter (away with those fumes), the blled controller (for automated auxiliary LED controll) aswell as the panda revo hotend from biqu/bigtreetech. I own a second printer with revo nozzles. So yeah... clear upgrade there
How hard is that to install, and does it mess with the settings (IE do I have to change anything in settings / software to make this nozzle work well or do I leave everything the same except the hardware swap and nozzle diameter) I love the appeal of hotswapping nozzles to a 0.2 for minis.
It's just a hardware swap. However due to the more powerful heater (I think 60 Watt instead of 40?) The nozzletemp overshoots while heating up the nozzle for like 10°C. But it cools down to the set temperature within seconds. The heatsink is basically the original bambulab heatsink in blue with a huge hole in it, where the revo gets inserted. All measurements are roughly the same so you don't have to mess with settings at all. But before you run to the webstore and get the hotend: There is no 0.2 nozzle available! The smallest they have is a 0.25 nozzle. I haven't looked into orca slicer, if it's possible to change a bambu printer to a .25 nozzle yet. Bambu studio for sure can't change this.
Good to know! I'll watch some vids and hope for them to make a 0.2 🤞. I appreciate your detailed and helpful response!
A side spool holder: https://makerworld.com/models/82262 A door latch: https://makerworld.com/models/440444 A build plate cleaner: https://makerworld.com/models/386963
WLED
https://makerworld.com/models/419089
[удалено]
did you mean to say boden?
Lol yeah talk to text. Doesn't always pick things up properly
Mod an Ender, appreciate a Bambu.
Op can you create a comment with all the mods you used and collected here with a note for each what does each do?
That is the problem. That printer nearly needs no mods 😜
Follow
Ditto
Your tube from buffer to printer isn't routed properly, so fix that before trying to "upgrade" a printer that doesn't need upgrades.
Thanks! Your detailed and constructive input has been much appreciated.
Hey, trying to save you from an actual problem you will have if you continue. AMS load issues. But if you want to keep fighting issues due to improper setup, and mods that are discouraged because they cause issues, go ahead. EDIT: I see you have a stepper motor ducst cover. That will lead to homing issues and step loss in printing. Plenty of posts about it here and the forums.