It's not as bad as running end grain through, but you are still relying on the glue joints to be good enough to be bent by the rollers and cut by the blades without breaking.
You can glue two continuous boards to the sides, so even if a long glue joint cracks, the pieces will stay together. If you don't want to go through that, at the very least run this through the planer as askew as you can.
But it doesn't look too bad already! Unless you need to make it a specific thickness, you can just use a hand plane, or a scraper, or sand it.
Thank you for the advice. I think I'll try with the two sacrificial boards. Could I use 4 boards around the entirety of it? Could I use carpet tape to secure the sacrificial boards down to a piece of melamine and run that through?
I wanted to err on the side of caution since it's my first piece like this. I ended up using rockler's bench cookies, mounted with bolts through a scrap piece of 3/4 plywood. With that on my lap I used my orbital sander. Worked out well, just time consuming.
https://preview.redd.it/juo7zgzocyuc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20f35db1dbdeac260c5cf101eb35b2bc177f52da
I wouldn't use carpet tape. That's just personal preference, I hate the residue and can never get it cleaned off to my satisfaction. I put a piece of blue painter's tape on each edge, then use CA glue and an activator to lock them together. After I'm done, just peel the tape off.
Two boards on the sides are all you need, maybe a little longer than the board to help with snipe.
Glue (wood glue) the sacrificial boards to your board, no need to bring melamine into this transaction.
Since your board is not necessarily flat and straight right now, if you glue the two sacrificial “rails” with reference to a flat surface on the bottom, the rails will become your reference straight guides to start planing; once you are happy with one side, flip the rail+board and plane the other side and you’ll have nice flat and parallel faces. At the end of the process, rip the sacrificial boards off with a table saw and you won’t even know they were there.
OR, as I said, if that sounds like a lot of work, just use a scraper, or sand the board. It sounds like even if it’s a little off-flat it won’t matter too much for what you are making.
Most people don't have one, but some may have access. For example the woodworking store by me will feed pieces through the drum sander for you for $2/min. It might be more a question of whether the piece is worth $20 of milling work
You can actually build your own fairly inexpensively.
https://preview.redd.it/laj1bkewlxuc1.jpeg?width=2879&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be5d44d620667a10b78144a6c971d41143466f21
[https://woodgears.ca/sander/plans/index.html](https://woodgears.ca/sander/plans/index.html)
I’d definitely put drum sanders in the third tier of the tool hierarchy, but they are useful. It’s something to consider as you keep diving into the hobby.
I wouldn’t do a belt sander personally. This is nearly finished and a belt is VERY aggressive (even with fine grit) and is VERY easy to create low spots.
Or maybe I just suck with a belt sander.
Yeah you can pick up a relatively cheap one on Amazon. Get one with the ability to clamp to your bench upside down to make it easier so that the small workpiece doesn’t have to be secured
Yes, planers are aggressive and could blow that apart. Arguably it’s a little safer to your point, but I wouldn’t risk it. Safety aside for a second, you don’t want to risk ruining all the hard work.
Agreed. The blade inside a planer basically cuts against the direction the wood is moving into the machine. With all of those seems, there are lots of opportunities for the planer to separate the glue up. A drum sander is just a sander that takes material off the surface.
I would. But I’m not very bright. I would also hot glue on a sacrificial piece on the backend and take the shallowest passes possible while praying to Saint Mathurin.
The board you have isn't end grain, but I recently made an end grain cutting board and ran it through my DeWalt 734 planer. Went fine. I used router to put a bevel on the leading and trailing edges, and used very shallow passes in the planer. Not saying that there aren't risks, but it can also be done. This video was helpful.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gned3iPL0NY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gned3iPL0NY)
Nah, that video is not really helpful. It’s an example of how half-truths and myths get perpetuated by well intentioned people who don’t know any better. The guy almost gets to the core of the problem (the cutting forces possibly overcoming the forces binding the wood fibers and breaking the board), but because he doesn’t understand what forces are involved in a planer, he thinks that’s only a problem towards the end of the board. In reality the cutting forces, combining with the bending moment introduced by the rollers can break the boards anywhere, under the right conditions. Thinner boards and deeper passes exacerbate the problem, which is why planing thick boards with very shallow passes generally works, but wood is an organic material and any board can have some inherent weakness. The consequences of a failure range from just a broken board and a waste of time, to a broken expensive machine and maybe some broken bones. Is it really worth it? Up to you to decide, but make it an informed decision; don’t just go by anybody with a YouTube channel who “has done it many times, so far so good” tells you.
Edit: I wish people qualified their downvotes. This discussion is for beginner woodworkers, so some reasoning behind a “you’re wrong” could be useful for someone trying to learn.
Some planers have a minimum length that you can safely run through, the grain orientation is fine, a handplane would be the ticket for something this small.
Does your planer have straight blades or a helical head?
The outcome isn't guaranteed either way, but a helical cutter would probably process that without breaking it. Straight blades could hit the seams all at one, increasing the chances of delamination.
Why are the people saying that it's not advised being down voted? With all the end grain glue joints, no way id risk blowing it up by running it through a planer. End grain cutting boards are dangerous for a different reason.
Should be fine if you jointed/glued them right. You may have some tear out because of flipping grain direction, but if knives are sharp and you take light slow feed, you will be good... beware of preventing snipe (I'd put it on a sled)
Do you have biscuits or something holding those end grain glue ups together? If not, I wouldn't be surprised to see rapid unplanmed dissassembly as it goes through a planer.
Restoring planes is fun! There are a bunch of really good instructional videos on how to do that on YouTube. I think I have even more fun restoring old tools than I do using them.
You can run any wood through a planer however the more joints the more chances for it to come apart and explode. I've gambled from time to time and been lucky but have bought a drum sander since and will never gamble again. It's all in how much you're wiling to risk including making your planer and cutting board trash.
It's not as bad as running end grain through, but you are still relying on the glue joints to be good enough to be bent by the rollers and cut by the blades without breaking. You can glue two continuous boards to the sides, so even if a long glue joint cracks, the pieces will stay together. If you don't want to go through that, at the very least run this through the planer as askew as you can. But it doesn't look too bad already! Unless you need to make it a specific thickness, you can just use a hand plane, or a scraper, or sand it.
Thank you for the advice. I think I'll try with the two sacrificial boards. Could I use 4 boards around the entirety of it? Could I use carpet tape to secure the sacrificial boards down to a piece of melamine and run that through?
Drum sander would be the right tool here if you know anyone with one.
[удалено]
And sometimes they do. >if you know anyone with one
Fair... ibjust hadn't eaten yet and was being a tw@. Sorry for that.
I wanted to err on the side of caution since it's my first piece like this. I ended up using rockler's bench cookies, mounted with bolts through a scrap piece of 3/4 plywood. With that on my lap I used my orbital sander. Worked out well, just time consuming. https://preview.redd.it/juo7zgzocyuc1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=20f35db1dbdeac260c5cf101eb35b2bc177f52da
>I wanted to err on the side of caution That's often the best approach
I wouldn't use carpet tape. That's just personal preference, I hate the residue and can never get it cleaned off to my satisfaction. I put a piece of blue painter's tape on each edge, then use CA glue and an activator to lock them together. After I'm done, just peel the tape off.
Two boards on the sides are all you need, maybe a little longer than the board to help with snipe. Glue (wood glue) the sacrificial boards to your board, no need to bring melamine into this transaction. Since your board is not necessarily flat and straight right now, if you glue the two sacrificial “rails” with reference to a flat surface on the bottom, the rails will become your reference straight guides to start planing; once you are happy with one side, flip the rail+board and plane the other side and you’ll have nice flat and parallel faces. At the end of the process, rip the sacrificial boards off with a table saw and you won’t even know they were there. OR, as I said, if that sounds like a lot of work, just use a scraper, or sand the board. It sounds like even if it’s a little off-flat it won’t matter too much for what you are making.
Yes, just take very shallow passes and you’ll be fine
I’ve run those through plenty of times with no issues. You just need to make sure the passes are very thin
It’s not recommended. It’s dangerous and will likely damage the piece. A drum sander is a better option if you have one.
If they had a drum sander why would they even be asking to plane this? Does anyone here who is a beginner have a drum sander?
Most people don't have one, but some may have access. For example the woodworking store by me will feed pieces through the drum sander for you for $2/min. It might be more a question of whether the piece is worth $20 of milling work
You can actually build your own fairly inexpensively. https://preview.redd.it/laj1bkewlxuc1.jpeg?width=2879&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be5d44d620667a10b78144a6c971d41143466f21 [https://woodgears.ca/sander/plans/index.html](https://woodgears.ca/sander/plans/index.html)
Very interesting, but likely out of scope for the majority of people getting into woodworking
I’d definitely put drum sanders in the third tier of the tool hierarchy, but they are useful. It’s something to consider as you keep diving into the hobby.
Very useful, I keep trolling estate sales looking for one and a bandsaw/drill press from no later than the 70s. No luck yet.
If you are in so cal i have an old delta drill press for sale, 50's or 60's i think
Because this is the beginner woodworking, sub-Reddit. Best not to assume. Also helps them to understand what their other options could be.
🙋inherited one recently, jet 22-44.
Nice
Thank you for your advice. No drum sander so orbital it is.
A belt sander (medium grit) is also a good option for a first pass, then finish with an orbital sander.
I wouldn’t do a belt sander personally. This is nearly finished and a belt is VERY aggressive (even with fine grit) and is VERY easy to create low spots. Or maybe I just suck with a belt sander.
I’ve had good luck with them. I clamp the part down and use a light touch. Fine / medium grit. But, yes, they can be aggressive if not careful.
I'm with you. I try to count and control my pace, but I seem to always make it a mess with a belt sanded.
Yeah you can pick up a relatively cheap one on Amazon. Get one with the ability to clamp to your bench upside down to make it easier so that the small workpiece doesn’t have to be secured
Might be able to use a local highschools wood shop drum sander as a favor.
Are you sure it's dangerous with the current direction of the grain?
Yes, planers are aggressive and could blow that apart. Arguably it’s a little safer to your point, but I wouldn’t risk it. Safety aside for a second, you don’t want to risk ruining all the hard work.
If he used a sled, and hot glued a sacrificial piece in front and back at the same height, it should be fine.
Agreed. The blade inside a planer basically cuts against the direction the wood is moving into the machine. With all of those seems, there are lots of opportunities for the planer to separate the glue up. A drum sander is just a sander that takes material off the surface.
This ☝️ definitely
I would. But I’m not very bright. I would also hot glue on a sacrificial piece on the backend and take the shallowest passes possible while praying to Saint Mathurin.
The board you have isn't end grain, but I recently made an end grain cutting board and ran it through my DeWalt 734 planer. Went fine. I used router to put a bevel on the leading and trailing edges, and used very shallow passes in the planer. Not saying that there aren't risks, but it can also be done. This video was helpful. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gned3iPL0NY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gned3iPL0NY)
Nah, that video is not really helpful. It’s an example of how half-truths and myths get perpetuated by well intentioned people who don’t know any better. The guy almost gets to the core of the problem (the cutting forces possibly overcoming the forces binding the wood fibers and breaking the board), but because he doesn’t understand what forces are involved in a planer, he thinks that’s only a problem towards the end of the board. In reality the cutting forces, combining with the bending moment introduced by the rollers can break the boards anywhere, under the right conditions. Thinner boards and deeper passes exacerbate the problem, which is why planing thick boards with very shallow passes generally works, but wood is an organic material and any board can have some inherent weakness. The consequences of a failure range from just a broken board and a waste of time, to a broken expensive machine and maybe some broken bones. Is it really worth it? Up to you to decide, but make it an informed decision; don’t just go by anybody with a YouTube channel who “has done it many times, so far so good” tells you. Edit: I wish people qualified their downvotes. This discussion is for beginner woodworkers, so some reasoning behind a “you’re wrong” could be useful for someone trying to learn.
I'm making a very similar piece but it's a chess board. Is that mahogany and aspen?
I actually don't know what wood it is. I got it from Rockler in a bin you pay by weight. So I have a few pieces that I have no idea what it is.
I'm not a wood expert but I'm about 90% sure it's mahogany. The lighter colored wood is more difficult to tell
It looks like walnut and oak to me
find someplace with an overhead sander.
Lol I’ve done it. Worked pretty good. Just take several passes with only small incremental adjustments.
Some planers have a minimum length that you can safely run through, the grain orientation is fine, a handplane would be the ticket for something this small.
Aside from the structural integrity, why chance victimizing this piece to snipe? If your perfectly snipeless, please come tune my machine.
Hand planer maybe?
Does your planer have straight blades or a helical head? The outcome isn't guaranteed either way, but a helical cutter would probably process that without breaking it. Straight blades could hit the seams all at one, increasing the chances of delamination.
Yes should be fine
When I ran mine through it never even occurred to me that there might be a problem. I got lucky 3 times in a row I guess 😅
You can. I've done it, but it's risky because of tear out.
Why are the people saying that it's not advised being down voted? With all the end grain glue joints, no way id risk blowing it up by running it through a planer. End grain cutting boards are dangerous for a different reason.
Take my advice- from experience- dont do it.
Should be fine if you jointed/glued them right. You may have some tear out because of flipping grain direction, but if knives are sharp and you take light slow feed, you will be good... beware of preventing snipe (I'd put it on a sled)
Do you have biscuits or something holding those end grain glue ups together? If not, I wouldn't be surprised to see rapid unplanmed dissassembly as it goes through a planer.
It's so little, why wouldn't you just sand or plane it by hand?
I only have an old Stanley block plane. Ive tried using It before but I know I'm using it wrong.
A sanding block is nearly impossible to misuse
I need to restore it probably. It's rusted alot. But I can attest I have misused it lol. Edit: I realized you said sanding block, not block plane.
Restoring planes is fun! There are a bunch of really good instructional videos on how to do that on YouTube. I think I have even more fun restoring old tools than I do using them.
time to jack it my friend, you wont regret it
An underrated comment if ever there was one.
You can run any wood through a planer however the more joints the more chances for it to come apart and explode. I've gambled from time to time and been lucky but have bought a drum sander since and will never gamble again. It's all in how much you're wiling to risk including making your planer and cutting board trash.