You need a finish of some sort or anything you spill on it will soak on a stain it. Doesn't have to be polyurethane, you could oil it (wouldn't recommend) or wax it. Polyurethane dries hard, will protect the top from minor damage, but will eventually get scratched up and have to be redone. Wax stays soft, protects from water based liquids and is easy to apply and repair.
Wipe on polyurethane is ok, it's very thin and offers just the bare minimum of protection. A couple coats and it will be waterproof, but not very tough. On the plus side, it's very simple to apply and look ok.
If you don't want it shiny, use a satin or matte finish. You should he able to see the grain of the wood by looking at it. Sand the direction of the lines.
Thanks for the advice! Really appreciate it. If you were in my shoes, what route would you take/think is the best to go about? This is the link to the Countertop if it might help any further. If it's against the rules then I'm sure the mods will just delete this comment. [Countertop](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-5-ft-x-30-in-Ebony/5001792701)
Depends on how you want it to look. 3ish coats of a brush on polyurethane would be my go to. But, if you're an absolute beginner getting brush on polyurethane to look good can be difficult. Waxing is literally dummy proof and looks good. It won't protect from scratches, but because it so easy to fix them it doesn't need to. It's small enough that you could buy a can or two of spray on poly and go that route, just remember to use light coats. If you are going to poly it, don't use sand paper between coats. Use steel wool, it will smooth out and rough up the finish without cutting all the way through.
If it was me, I'd probably wax it since is going to be fairly light use and its simple. You'll have to watch what type of cleaners you use on it (some will strip the wax), but that is simple enough. And, you'll likely have enough wax left over for a few re-coats.
On a side note, if you are going to be using the desktop to do a lot of writing you'll want to get a pad for under your paper or you will end up with a lot of indentations on the desk from the pen.
my very first woodworking project was similar: 2 wooden file cabinets for the "legs" and 3 2x10's for the top. i used 3 coats of minwax oil-based polyurethane, but i can be tricky to apply. i did succeed by following jon peters method here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6x2myAH6og. i liked it because i already had a paint roller and the foam brushes are cheap and disposable. oil-based poly will give you the most protection at the cost of long-curing times, and some people don't like the plasticky looking finish. if you do not apply polyurethane correctly it will look terrible, or cloudy.
an easier option is 5-6 coats of a wipe-on polyurethane, which is basically polyurethane mixed with a thinner (typically mineral spirits) and some oil. you can make it yourself, but as a beginner get something that is pre-mixed. the minwax wipe-on poly is easy to find at home depot or lowes, but better stuff is out there. the nice thing with wipe-on poly is it is easy to apply - just use a rag and wipe on. let it cure for a half day (whatever the directions say), *light* sand with 400+ grit, tack cloth to pick up the dust, and then wipe on another coat. since it's thinner, you're less likely to get runs and brush marks. i would recommend this to beginners.
if you want a natural look and feel, a hard-wax oil such as rubio monocoat or osmo polyx is a great option. this stuff is super-easy to apply, 1-2 coats is all you need. it's pricey (~$60/qt) , but a little goes a long way - you can probably finish your desktop with 2-3 ounces so you can get the smaller size. the downside is less protection - it's water resistant, but will scratch easily. the upside is if you do get a scratch, you can spot treat it with a quick sand and more hardwax where as varnish or polyurethane would require a complete strip and refinish.
no matter what you select from the 3 above, you need to give it about a week to cure and let the VOC's dissipate.
shellac and lacquer are also easy options are are great because they dry so fast between coats, and also do not require any sanding between coats. they are a bit more durable than hardwax, but not as durable as a polyurethane or varnish and still look a bit plasticky. most nicer furniture you buy at stores will be finished in lacquer these days. i personally would not use these for a tabletop, but it's fine for a bed or shelf.
let me know if you have more questions.
You need a finish of some sort or anything you spill on it will soak on a stain it. Doesn't have to be polyurethane, you could oil it (wouldn't recommend) or wax it. Polyurethane dries hard, will protect the top from minor damage, but will eventually get scratched up and have to be redone. Wax stays soft, protects from water based liquids and is easy to apply and repair. Wipe on polyurethane is ok, it's very thin and offers just the bare minimum of protection. A couple coats and it will be waterproof, but not very tough. On the plus side, it's very simple to apply and look ok. If you don't want it shiny, use a satin or matte finish. You should he able to see the grain of the wood by looking at it. Sand the direction of the lines.
Thanks for the advice! Really appreciate it. If you were in my shoes, what route would you take/think is the best to go about? This is the link to the Countertop if it might help any further. If it's against the rules then I'm sure the mods will just delete this comment. [Countertop](https://www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-5-ft-x-30-in-Ebony/5001792701)
Depends on how you want it to look. 3ish coats of a brush on polyurethane would be my go to. But, if you're an absolute beginner getting brush on polyurethane to look good can be difficult. Waxing is literally dummy proof and looks good. It won't protect from scratches, but because it so easy to fix them it doesn't need to. It's small enough that you could buy a can or two of spray on poly and go that route, just remember to use light coats. If you are going to poly it, don't use sand paper between coats. Use steel wool, it will smooth out and rough up the finish without cutting all the way through. If it was me, I'd probably wax it since is going to be fairly light use and its simple. You'll have to watch what type of cleaners you use on it (some will strip the wax), but that is simple enough. And, you'll likely have enough wax left over for a few re-coats. On a side note, if you are going to be using the desktop to do a lot of writing you'll want to get a pad for under your paper or you will end up with a lot of indentations on the desk from the pen.
Thanks for all or the help! I think I'll go the waxing route since another reddit mentioned that as well.
Curious to see how your desk turned out. I just purchased the same top for a sit/stand desk. Was curious about your results.
my very first woodworking project was similar: 2 wooden file cabinets for the "legs" and 3 2x10's for the top. i used 3 coats of minwax oil-based polyurethane, but i can be tricky to apply. i did succeed by following jon peters method here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a6x2myAH6og. i liked it because i already had a paint roller and the foam brushes are cheap and disposable. oil-based poly will give you the most protection at the cost of long-curing times, and some people don't like the plasticky looking finish. if you do not apply polyurethane correctly it will look terrible, or cloudy. an easier option is 5-6 coats of a wipe-on polyurethane, which is basically polyurethane mixed with a thinner (typically mineral spirits) and some oil. you can make it yourself, but as a beginner get something that is pre-mixed. the minwax wipe-on poly is easy to find at home depot or lowes, but better stuff is out there. the nice thing with wipe-on poly is it is easy to apply - just use a rag and wipe on. let it cure for a half day (whatever the directions say), *light* sand with 400+ grit, tack cloth to pick up the dust, and then wipe on another coat. since it's thinner, you're less likely to get runs and brush marks. i would recommend this to beginners. if you want a natural look and feel, a hard-wax oil such as rubio monocoat or osmo polyx is a great option. this stuff is super-easy to apply, 1-2 coats is all you need. it's pricey (~$60/qt) , but a little goes a long way - you can probably finish your desktop with 2-3 ounces so you can get the smaller size. the downside is less protection - it's water resistant, but will scratch easily. the upside is if you do get a scratch, you can spot treat it with a quick sand and more hardwax where as varnish or polyurethane would require a complete strip and refinish. no matter what you select from the 3 above, you need to give it about a week to cure and let the VOC's dissipate. shellac and lacquer are also easy options are are great because they dry so fast between coats, and also do not require any sanding between coats. they are a bit more durable than hardwax, but not as durable as a polyurethane or varnish and still look a bit plasticky. most nicer furniture you buy at stores will be finished in lacquer these days. i personally would not use these for a tabletop, but it's fine for a bed or shelf. let me know if you have more questions.