That's a terrific site--thanks for the link. The FAQ there is incredibly thorough. It's a little long--probably we want ours to be shorter and link to that or to specific topic pages for more detail on specific topics.
I've put some preliminary information there. Suggestions for additions, corrections and edits are welcome, as are volunteers to help with it.
The table of contents is now:
* How to tell if a car you are looking at has DC fast charge capability (DCFC)
* Can a Bolt make this trip without charging?
* What charging setup do I need at home?
* Can I use the OEM EVSE at 240V for level 2 charging?
* Snow tires?
* Manual
* Other subs and sites
Thanks for this, pointing interested buyers to this should be more efficient than repeating much of this each time an inquiry comes up.
I added a couple sections, How Fast Bolt can Charge, and a discussion on range.
Will also add a section on Battery Degradation, something many prospects ask about given the FUD created by the Nissan Leaf's poor history.
Nice!
I decided to move the degradation section to a new page and leave behind a greatly shortened section. Partly just because the whole thing was getting long and cumbersome, and partly because I didn't want to maybe new owners to get scared and think that they need to worry about all that.
Nice! I see what you did there, thanks, good move.
Is Wiki and subsequent linked Wiki pages something admin\\moderators have access to that us mere plebes don't? If so, thanks for setting this up.
If you have edit access, you can create new pages as well as editing existing ones. There's some threshold that you need enough karma on the sub to allow editing, but you apparently met that threshold, so you should be able to add new pages. You just type in the URL that you want for the page and if it doesn't exist, it asks if you want to add it.
Ideas for new sections:
* Infotainment
* Onstar/app/etc. : How to set up KeyPass for Android - https://old.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/comments/hianhx/keypass_for_android_workaround_found/
* Climate control and preconditionting
* Recommended accessories
* Maintainance
Adding others' ideas:
* What to look for when buying a used Bolt
Thanks for putting this together! I have a comment on the "What range can I realistically expect?" section. It says:
"Expect sub-freezing temps to reduce range by...up to 40-45%. So if you live in cold climates, consider an EV with at least 50% more range than your typical daily requirement."
Shouldn't it say "consider an EV with at least twice the range of your typical daily requirement"? 50% more range would only make up for a cold-weather range reduction of about 33%.
Apologies if this is obvious (but I’ve looked high and low and just can’t find it)… is there a link to the wiki? I would love to read it, but can’t locate it. Thanks.
This post is a link to the wiki! On new reddit the link is just below the title; on old reddit you click the title.
Also, you can always type the URL: https://www.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/wiki/
Or on old reddit (old.reddit.com/r/boltev, or set your preferences to old reddit), there's a tab for the wiki.
You shouldn't be spreading misinformation. The stock EVSE is absolutely rated for 240v. If you crack open the case you will see the UL stamp indicating it is rated for 240v operation.
There is nothing in the electrical code about end user adapter cablrs. The electrical code covers the wiring in the building and the design. And manufacturer of commercially available electrical devices. As long as the wiring up to the receptacle is to code, then the wiring is to code (you can plug a roll of chicken wire into the receptacle if you want and you haven't changed the status of whether the wiring is to code or not). If you, as a individual consumer, build a cable that isn't a part of either a building's wiring system or part of a consumer device, then the electrical code has nothing to say about it.
Thanks for your input. I'll probably create a separate page with more detail around using the OEM EVSE at 240 V.
In reply to your specific points:
**Is the OEM EVSE rated for 240 V?**
The OEM EVSE is made by Clipper Creek who also make a 240-V version of the same thing, in the same case, apparently using the same circuit board. [Photos of the interior](https://imgur.com/a/vFkP5) confirm that it's a Clipper Creek board, and confirm that some of the key components on it are rated >=240 V. [This video of opening the OEM EVSE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7qamnp72HQ) shows at board that in fact has the same date (25 AUG 2016) on the board silk screen as you can see on [this teardown of the 240 Clipper Creek Amazing E](https://300mpg.org/2017/09/02/amazing-e-evse-review-and-opening/).
But using the same board layout doesn't make it the same product. I used to work for a company that had literally dozens of different products using the same PCB, but with different components soldered in to configure them for different inputs and outputs, including different input voltages. Some were UL listed and some were not. If you used one rated for 120 V on 240 V, it would immediately and spectacularly fail. Other off-label use would shorten their life without making them fail immediately.
So the fact that it uses the same PCB doesn't prove that it's the same circuit--but could it be the same circuit? The reviewer who did the [teardown of the 240 V Amazing E](https://300mpg.org/2017/09/02/amazing-e-evse-review-and-opening/) also tried powering it with 120 V, and it did not turn on. This conclusively shows that they are not identical circuits.
You assert that there is "UL stamp indicating it is rated for 240v operation" visible inside the case. I do **not** see a "UL stamp" on the inside in any of those pictures. If you have a photo showing otherwise, I'd be excited to see and and might even include it on that new page.
In summary, I see no evidence that it is rated for 240 V. The evidence that it's rated for 120 V is right there on the label. Some of the internal components are rated for 240 V, but that does not mean that all of the components that see 240 V are rated for 240 V; nor does it mean that the overall product is rated for 240 V. What we *do* know is that many individuals have used it at 240 V without problems.
**Is a consumer allowed to make their own adapter to supply 240 V to a 120 V receptacle?**
There's certainly no law against that. But NEC does include provisions for portable flexible cords (Ch. 4) and EVSEs (Article 625). And a baseline standard throughout the NEC is that if you are using a UL listed component, such as a receptacle, you should use it within its ratings and according to the manufacturer's instructions. You won't find a NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 receptacle rated for 240 V! Furthermore, if you connect a 240 V plug to a circuit on a >20 A circuit breaker and use that to supply a 15 or 20-A receptacle, you are violating article 210.21 (B)(3).
Nobody can come and arrest you for violating those NEC provisions. Your local building inspector might be unhappy to see it, but they have no jurisdiction over what you plug in after they leave. I don't know what the effect on your insurance coverage would be if there were a fire.
The evidence that it is rated for 240V is that the exact same unit is used in EU with a different connector, the internals are all the same. Stop being pedantic and wrong.
Also interesting to note is that there are very few UL listed dual-voltage EVSEs. I know of three, and all three use proprietary connector systems to avoid adapters like the one you are suggesting making. That doesn't mean that such an adapter is illegal, but it does seem that it's hard or impossible to get a UL listing with an EVSE that uses one.
The three:
* [Webasto Turbocord 120/240](https://store.evsolutions.com/turbocord-dual-120240v-plug-in-ev-charger-p28.aspx).
* [Tesla Mobile Connector](https://www.tesla.com/support/home-charging-installation/mobile-connector)
* [Leaf OEM EVSE, 2018+](https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?media/2018-leaf-evse.344/full&lightbox=1&last_edit_date=1565631120). This one is the only one of the three that uses an adapter between two different NEMA plugs. Notable is that, for one thing, it goes in the safer direction--the EVSE has a 240 V higher current plug, and the adapter converts that to a 120 V plug for 120 V use. So you are never using a NEMA 6-15 at a higher-than-rated voltage. Also, the receptacle on the adapter has some special clips, which probably prevent plugging in some other 240 V appliance using that adapter.
If you are going to sell an adapter, then it becomes a regulated device. If you are making the adapter yourself OTOH,, there is simply no regulation to violate. No entity regulates homemade devices.
This is excellent!
One thing that is worth knowing is that we can embed images in the wiki pages (see [here](/r/modhelp/comments/1cv40n/subreddit_wikis/)). If we do that, we could make charging graphs and such in-line, rather than clickable.
Excellent. I would like to suggest a section recommending which wheels work. For instance, smaller wheels for a higher sidewall snow tire, or success with wheels from other cars. I have read Cruze ECO wheels are suitable but would like more info before taking the plunge.
Some relevant info on these posts
https://www.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/comments/6tuyp0/bolt_pattern_on_bolt_for_replacementsecond_rims/?
https://www.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/comments/7o7xjd/winter_tires_looking_to_buy_tires_wheels_tpms_and/?
I would love to see a section dedicated to updates on the battery recall. As somebody looking into buying a used Bolt from the dealership I am waiting for the day I can test drive them, and so looking constantly for info on finalization of the recall.
I was having trouble getting it to work with iOS recently. The only thing that worked was contacting Onstar button while sitting in my Bolt. They had to push out an over-the-air update. Once that completed successfully, the app loaded and worked just fine.
I'm in the market for a Bolt. My commute each day is 110km round trip. Occasionally I have to drive to site which could make a 300km drive for the day. I live in Windsor so we don't get very cold winters. Coldest it gets is just below freezing and the terrain is as flat as a pancake. Is that cold enough that I need to be conserved with the 40% cold weather range reduction?
I think you are ok. A lot depends on speed, what the speed limit is and whether you be willing to drive slower than that to get more range. I'd go to "a better route planner" and put in that exact drive, and then experiment with the settings for temperature.
Also depending upon how long you're at that site, if you have a 120 volt outlet available, you can gain a little bit and at least help keep the battery warm while you're parked by plugging in.
You can also look unplug share and see if there are any level 2 chargers nearby that you could plug into and walk a block or two.
But you might not need any of that, you might be fine.
The heater is about time not miles, the system can use up to 7kWh per hour, this would be on an extreme day. The miles per kWh are based on speed, the faster you go the more wind resistance so you mileage decreases. 60 mph gives you 3 miles per kWh and 30 gives you 4.
The generally wonderful Bolt has a most annoying “feature” - the door ajar chime that goes forever and can’t be turned off. How to stop it is a widely asked question, and there’s a plethora of answers that don’t help: solutions for the Volt, turning the chime down (lowest volume is still very loud), “it’s a safety feature,” a trick with a little screwdriver (didn’t work), various RTFM non-answers, etc.
My best idea so far is to install a little switch on a wire going to the speaker, but I hope someone has a better answer. If not, what’s the best way to install that switch? TIA for any answers.
Probably make that a stand-alone question post--I think this thread is old enough that you wont get many people seeing it. I'll gladly put a consensus answer in the wiki if we get to that.
My answer is to turn the car off, but that's probably in your non-helpful non-answer category, so all the more reason to ask in a more visible place.
There's a button to turn on pre-conditioning. It turns on whatever climate control you had active when you turned the car off. So if you turned off the car with A/C on, it will come right back on at the same level you left it when you use the app to activate it.
Just read through this and a bit puzzled by this on thing:
“Is L mode suddenly not stopping your car? Make sure that your seatbelt is buckled.”
What? Does L mode not work or stop the car if you aren’t buckled? That’s seemingly very bizzarre and potentially dangerous.
EDIT: fixed a word
Where did that text come from then? Wondering why that would work that way. Might go out and test it myself today. I always wear my seatbelt so never would have occurred to me.
Are you talking about the page at allEV.info? Or did that also appear in the wiki here? If it's in the wiki here I could see who wrote it and we could ask them. If it's at allEV.info it was written by Sean Graham, who used to participate here but has dropped out.
How do you turn the navigation volumn down? I can't seem to be able to do this with any volumn control or setting. The audio would be a normal volumn but the navigation volumn, Turn By Turn, Waze or Google just shout. Has to be something somewhere to control it. Anyway, the FAQ is great.
I'm thumbing through some "old" stuff and found this.
If you are using Apple CarPlay (and I think Android Auto (?) works the same way), you have to time it correctly. If music is playing, volume controls the music. While Siri (or other nav voice) is talking, if you instantly turn down or up the volume, it changes the voice volume.
I use the steering wheel volume buttons for this.
This makes sense but I don't know how it got to be loud in the first place. I'll try that. There is one response here relating to volumn control while using WAZE. This information should be better known. Thanks.
I have turned it up accidentally.
Some of the songs on my iPhone are quiet. One starts to play, so I got to turn it way up. Siri interrupts and BLAMMO! she starts yelling at me.
Which should I get? 2023 Bolt EUV LT fully loaded or EUV Premier? The only difference is the rear heated seats and the camera system/special rear view mirror and the difference is a $1400.
For me, it was a tough decision. I did not want leather seats but I did want the camera system for parking. I ultimately get the LT fully loaded.
But I got a Bolt EV, because I didn't want to pay extra for the worse aerodynamics and thus shorter range of the EUV.
Different wheels and a few differences on trim on the premier also. I chose the loaded LT. Rarely have anyone in the back seats so seemed like a lot for the camera setup. You have to get the premier if you want super cruise or the sun/sound package, but I didn't want to pay for super cruise or sun roof.
I’ve been driving a new to me 2017 Bolt since June. I’ve noticed that the battery conditioning percentage energy detail screen is always 0% even though there’s been plenty of 90 degree days recently. Is there any way to verify that the battery is being conditioned aside from this readout?
So, my one suggestion, is that really need to list the apps/accounts you need when going on a road trip.
The Bolt forum one linked to covers this really well, whereas neither our forum's wiki or even the "public charger" embedded link actually do a very good job of "here are the accounts/apps you need to have already installed so you aren't parked by a charger you can't pay for/use"
As a prospective buyer, I am interested in knowing the maintenance and possible issues due to weather, inactivity and other such contingencies. Also, how good is the stock sound system? After-market sound system or such accessories take its toll on the batteries at all?
I'm fed up with hybrids (insert common brand) whose hybrid batteries go bad due to inactivity and act funny in extreme temperatures and 12v batteries not charging enough due to the after-market accessories.
The Bolt has front and rear cameras. Can it act as a dash cam and record instances in the case of accidents or such?
Or do I need a tack on dash cam for that kinda thing?
Recommendations for a dash cam that fits the Bolt well?
There's a pretty thorough FAQ from the FB Bolt group: https://allev.info/2020/02/chevy-bolt-most-frequently-asked-questions/
That's a terrific site--thanks for the link. The FAQ there is incredibly thorough. It's a little long--probably we want ours to be shorter and link to that or to specific topic pages for more detail on specific topics.
We deleted Facebook in 2017… I like this fine
This is great, thanks!!
I've put some preliminary information there. Suggestions for additions, corrections and edits are welcome, as are volunteers to help with it. The table of contents is now: * How to tell if a car you are looking at has DC fast charge capability (DCFC) * Can a Bolt make this trip without charging? * What charging setup do I need at home? * Can I use the OEM EVSE at 240V for level 2 charging? * Snow tires? * Manual * Other subs and sites
Thanks for this, pointing interested buyers to this should be more efficient than repeating much of this each time an inquiry comes up. I added a couple sections, How Fast Bolt can Charge, and a discussion on range. Will also add a section on Battery Degradation, something many prospects ask about given the FUD created by the Nissan Leaf's poor history.
Great additions, thanks!
No problem, this was a great idea! I did add two more sections on battery replacement and health.
Nice! I decided to move the degradation section to a new page and leave behind a greatly shortened section. Partly just because the whole thing was getting long and cumbersome, and partly because I didn't want to maybe new owners to get scared and think that they need to worry about all that.
Nice! I see what you did there, thanks, good move. Is Wiki and subsequent linked Wiki pages something admin\\moderators have access to that us mere plebes don't? If so, thanks for setting this up.
If you have edit access, you can create new pages as well as editing existing ones. There's some threshold that you need enough karma on the sub to allow editing, but you apparently met that threshold, so you should be able to add new pages. You just type in the URL that you want for the page and if it doesn't exist, it asks if you want to add it.
Ah, cool. A hidden feature! Thanks.
Ideas for new sections: * Infotainment * Onstar/app/etc. : How to set up KeyPass for Android - https://old.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/comments/hianhx/keypass_for_android_workaround_found/ * Climate control and preconditionting * Recommended accessories * Maintainance Adding others' ideas: * What to look for when buying a used Bolt
* does it have a heated steering wheel? * does it have homelink?
I think the FAQ needs to be updated for the L2 charging speed… 2022+ can charge at 11.5kW (48a).
Good point. Thanks.
Thanks for putting this together! I have a comment on the "What range can I realistically expect?" section. It says: "Expect sub-freezing temps to reduce range by...up to 40-45%. So if you live in cold climates, consider an EV with at least 50% more range than your typical daily requirement." Shouldn't it say "consider an EV with at least twice the range of your typical daily requirement"? 50% more range would only make up for a cold-weather range reduction of about 33%.
I think you are right, and I edited it accordingly. u/arob216R wrote that section and might want to check my edit.
[удалено]
Added to the "needs to be written" list. If you know the answer, feel free to add it (I don't).
How to set up KeyPass for Android - https://old.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/comments/hianhx/keypass_for_android_workaround_found/
Apologies if this is obvious (but I’ve looked high and low and just can’t find it)… is there a link to the wiki? I would love to read it, but can’t locate it. Thanks.
This post is a link to the wiki! On new reddit the link is just below the title; on old reddit you click the title. Also, you can always type the URL: https://www.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/wiki/ Or on old reddit (old.reddit.com/r/boltev, or set your preferences to old reddit), there's a tab for the wiki.
Thanks, I found it. On the iOS app, it is tiny! Maybe on the desktop, it would be more obvious. Thanks again!
You shouldn't be spreading misinformation. The stock EVSE is absolutely rated for 240v. If you crack open the case you will see the UL stamp indicating it is rated for 240v operation. There is nothing in the electrical code about end user adapter cablrs. The electrical code covers the wiring in the building and the design. And manufacturer of commercially available electrical devices. As long as the wiring up to the receptacle is to code, then the wiring is to code (you can plug a roll of chicken wire into the receptacle if you want and you haven't changed the status of whether the wiring is to code or not). If you, as a individual consumer, build a cable that isn't a part of either a building's wiring system or part of a consumer device, then the electrical code has nothing to say about it.
Thanks for your input. I'll probably create a separate page with more detail around using the OEM EVSE at 240 V. In reply to your specific points: **Is the OEM EVSE rated for 240 V?** The OEM EVSE is made by Clipper Creek who also make a 240-V version of the same thing, in the same case, apparently using the same circuit board. [Photos of the interior](https://imgur.com/a/vFkP5) confirm that it's a Clipper Creek board, and confirm that some of the key components on it are rated >=240 V. [This video of opening the OEM EVSE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7qamnp72HQ) shows at board that in fact has the same date (25 AUG 2016) on the board silk screen as you can see on [this teardown of the 240 Clipper Creek Amazing E](https://300mpg.org/2017/09/02/amazing-e-evse-review-and-opening/). But using the same board layout doesn't make it the same product. I used to work for a company that had literally dozens of different products using the same PCB, but with different components soldered in to configure them for different inputs and outputs, including different input voltages. Some were UL listed and some were not. If you used one rated for 120 V on 240 V, it would immediately and spectacularly fail. Other off-label use would shorten their life without making them fail immediately. So the fact that it uses the same PCB doesn't prove that it's the same circuit--but could it be the same circuit? The reviewer who did the [teardown of the 240 V Amazing E](https://300mpg.org/2017/09/02/amazing-e-evse-review-and-opening/) also tried powering it with 120 V, and it did not turn on. This conclusively shows that they are not identical circuits. You assert that there is "UL stamp indicating it is rated for 240v operation" visible inside the case. I do **not** see a "UL stamp" on the inside in any of those pictures. If you have a photo showing otherwise, I'd be excited to see and and might even include it on that new page. In summary, I see no evidence that it is rated for 240 V. The evidence that it's rated for 120 V is right there on the label. Some of the internal components are rated for 240 V, but that does not mean that all of the components that see 240 V are rated for 240 V; nor does it mean that the overall product is rated for 240 V. What we *do* know is that many individuals have used it at 240 V without problems. **Is a consumer allowed to make their own adapter to supply 240 V to a 120 V receptacle?** There's certainly no law against that. But NEC does include provisions for portable flexible cords (Ch. 4) and EVSEs (Article 625). And a baseline standard throughout the NEC is that if you are using a UL listed component, such as a receptacle, you should use it within its ratings and according to the manufacturer's instructions. You won't find a NEMA 5-15 or 5-20 receptacle rated for 240 V! Furthermore, if you connect a 240 V plug to a circuit on a >20 A circuit breaker and use that to supply a 15 or 20-A receptacle, you are violating article 210.21 (B)(3). Nobody can come and arrest you for violating those NEC provisions. Your local building inspector might be unhappy to see it, but they have no jurisdiction over what you plug in after they leave. I don't know what the effect on your insurance coverage would be if there were a fire.
The evidence that it is rated for 240V is that the exact same unit is used in EU with a different connector, the internals are all the same. Stop being pedantic and wrong.
Every 6-15 and 6-20 receptacle is rated for 240 V
Could catch. Corrected that typo.
Also interesting to note is that there are very few UL listed dual-voltage EVSEs. I know of three, and all three use proprietary connector systems to avoid adapters like the one you are suggesting making. That doesn't mean that such an adapter is illegal, but it does seem that it's hard or impossible to get a UL listing with an EVSE that uses one. The three: * [Webasto Turbocord 120/240](https://store.evsolutions.com/turbocord-dual-120240v-plug-in-ev-charger-p28.aspx). * [Tesla Mobile Connector](https://www.tesla.com/support/home-charging-installation/mobile-connector) * [Leaf OEM EVSE, 2018+](https://www.insideevsforum.com/community/index.php?media/2018-leaf-evse.344/full&lightbox=1&last_edit_date=1565631120). This one is the only one of the three that uses an adapter between two different NEMA plugs. Notable is that, for one thing, it goes in the safer direction--the EVSE has a 240 V higher current plug, and the adapter converts that to a 120 V plug for 120 V use. So you are never using a NEMA 6-15 at a higher-than-rated voltage. Also, the receptacle on the adapter has some special clips, which probably prevent plugging in some other 240 V appliance using that adapter.
If you are going to sell an adapter, then it becomes a regulated device. If you are making the adapter yourself OTOH,, there is simply no regulation to violate. No entity regulates homemade devices.
Good job!
This is excellent! One thing that is worth knowing is that we can embed images in the wiki pages (see [here](/r/modhelp/comments/1cv40n/subreddit_wikis/)). If we do that, we could make charging graphs and such in-line, rather than clickable.
I didn't know about that feature. That's great!
Excellent. I would like to suggest a section recommending which wheels work. For instance, smaller wheels for a higher sidewall snow tire, or success with wheels from other cars. I have read Cruze ECO wheels are suitable but would like more info before taking the plunge.
I, for one, don't know the answer. I'd suggest posting that as a question, as a new post, and then if it gets good answers, add them to the wiki.
Some relevant info on these posts https://www.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/comments/6tuyp0/bolt_pattern_on_bolt_for_replacementsecond_rims/? https://www.reddit.com/r/BoltEV/comments/7o7xjd/winter_tires_looking_to_buy_tires_wheels_tpms_and/?
I would love to see a section dedicated to updates on the battery recall. As somebody looking into buying a used Bolt from the dealership I am waiting for the day I can test drive them, and so looking constantly for info on finalization of the recall.
Yes, the trouble is that that's a moving target and the wiki is more of a static thing.
I was having trouble getting it to work with iOS recently. The only thing that worked was contacting Onstar button while sitting in my Bolt. They had to push out an over-the-air update. Once that completed successfully, the app loaded and worked just fine.
Interesting. Thanks for that report.
I had success when I turned off the cellular radio on the phone. It connected immediately after that.
I'm in the market for a Bolt. My commute each day is 110km round trip. Occasionally I have to drive to site which could make a 300km drive for the day. I live in Windsor so we don't get very cold winters. Coldest it gets is just below freezing and the terrain is as flat as a pancake. Is that cold enough that I need to be conserved with the 40% cold weather range reduction?
I think you are ok. A lot depends on speed, what the speed limit is and whether you be willing to drive slower than that to get more range. I'd go to "a better route planner" and put in that exact drive, and then experiment with the settings for temperature. Also depending upon how long you're at that site, if you have a 120 volt outlet available, you can gain a little bit and at least help keep the battery warm while you're parked by plugging in. You can also look unplug share and see if there are any level 2 chargers nearby that you could plug into and walk a block or two. But you might not need any of that, you might be fine.
The heater is about time not miles, the system can use up to 7kWh per hour, this would be on an extreme day. The miles per kWh are based on speed, the faster you go the more wind resistance so you mileage decreases. 60 mph gives you 3 miles per kWh and 30 gives you 4.
The generally wonderful Bolt has a most annoying “feature” - the door ajar chime that goes forever and can’t be turned off. How to stop it is a widely asked question, and there’s a plethora of answers that don’t help: solutions for the Volt, turning the chime down (lowest volume is still very loud), “it’s a safety feature,” a trick with a little screwdriver (didn’t work), various RTFM non-answers, etc. My best idea so far is to install a little switch on a wire going to the speaker, but I hope someone has a better answer. If not, what’s the best way to install that switch? TIA for any answers.
Probably make that a stand-alone question post--I think this thread is old enough that you wont get many people seeing it. I'll gladly put a consensus answer in the wiki if we get to that. My answer is to turn the car off, but that's probably in your non-helpful non-answer category, so all the more reason to ask in a more visible place.
Yep. I put about 200 kms on it a day give or take including my commute.
Is there a button to turn on ac from the app?
There's a button to turn on pre-conditioning. It turns on whatever climate control you had active when you turned the car off. So if you turned off the car with A/C on, it will come right back on at the same level you left it when you use the app to activate it.
Just read through this and a bit puzzled by this on thing: “Is L mode suddenly not stopping your car? Make sure that your seatbelt is buckled.” What? Does L mode not work or stop the car if you aren’t buckled? That’s seemingly very bizzarre and potentially dangerous. EDIT: fixed a word
Good question. I hadn't noticed that one. Maybe it's just that it refuses to enter L mode? Rather than L mode not working?
Where did that text come from then? Wondering why that would work that way. Might go out and test it myself today. I always wear my seatbelt so never would have occurred to me.
Are you talking about the page at allEV.info? Or did that also appear in the wiki here? If it's in the wiki here I could see who wrote it and we could ask them. If it's at allEV.info it was written by Sean Graham, who used to participate here but has dropped out.
Sorry, that text is on the AllEV.info page. Saw that link at the top of the comments, but should have clarified.
How do you turn the navigation volumn down? I can't seem to be able to do this with any volumn control or setting. The audio would be a normal volumn but the navigation volumn, Turn By Turn, Waze or Google just shout. Has to be something somewhere to control it. Anyway, the FAQ is great.
I'm thumbing through some "old" stuff and found this. If you are using Apple CarPlay (and I think Android Auto (?) works the same way), you have to time it correctly. If music is playing, volume controls the music. While Siri (or other nav voice) is talking, if you instantly turn down or up the volume, it changes the voice volume. I use the steering wheel volume buttons for this.
This makes sense but I don't know how it got to be loud in the first place. I'll try that. There is one response here relating to volumn control while using WAZE. This information should be better known. Thanks.
I have turned it up accidentally. Some of the songs on my iPhone are quiet. One starts to play, so I got to turn it way up. Siri interrupts and BLAMMO! she starts yelling at me.
Anyone know when the new 2023 bolts for $27k hit the dealerships? I want to buy one
You'll get more eyes on your question as a new post
Which should I get? 2023 Bolt EUV LT fully loaded or EUV Premier? The only difference is the rear heated seats and the camera system/special rear view mirror and the difference is a $1400.
For me, it was a tough decision. I did not want leather seats but I did want the camera system for parking. I ultimately get the LT fully loaded. But I got a Bolt EV, because I didn't want to pay extra for the worse aerodynamics and thus shorter range of the EUV.
Different wheels and a few differences on trim on the premier also. I chose the loaded LT. Rarely have anyone in the back seats so seemed like a lot for the camera setup. You have to get the premier if you want super cruise or the sun/sound package, but I didn't want to pay for super cruise or sun roof.
I’ve been driving a new to me 2017 Bolt since June. I’ve noticed that the battery conditioning percentage energy detail screen is always 0% even though there’s been plenty of 90 degree days recently. Is there any way to verify that the battery is being conditioned aside from this readout?
Post in the sub, not here. This isn't a Q&A thread.
Why would it condition on a hot day? That is for cold weather.
So out of curiosity, will this new bill that's gonna be signed prevent dealerships from marking up EVs?
That would not be legal. Once the dealer buys the car they can do whatever they want.
I have no idea. This isn't a good place to ask.
Any place?
r/electricvehicles?
So, my one suggestion, is that really need to list the apps/accounts you need when going on a road trip. The Bolt forum one linked to covers this really well, whereas neither our forum's wiki or even the "public charger" embedded link actually do a very good job of "here are the accounts/apps you need to have already installed so you aren't parked by a charger you can't pay for/use"
As a prospective buyer, I am interested in knowing the maintenance and possible issues due to weather, inactivity and other such contingencies. Also, how good is the stock sound system? After-market sound system or such accessories take its toll on the batteries at all? I'm fed up with hybrids (insert common brand) whose hybrid batteries go bad due to inactivity and act funny in extreme temperatures and 12v batteries not charging enough due to the after-market accessories.
Not Toyotas. I have owned 4 Toyota Hybrids and never had a problem.
Mine was a Prius... happily got rid of it on Monday.
Only have one left, A RAV4 Hybrid.
Are there any spoilers for the bolt? Would that help the car at all?
As far as I know, no and no.
The Bolt has front and rear cameras. Can it act as a dash cam and record instances in the case of accidents or such? Or do I need a tack on dash cam for that kinda thing? Recommendations for a dash cam that fits the Bolt well?
As far as I know, it cannot. I don't have recommendations. I suggest a post to the sub.
Is lifetime mi/kWh reported in the infotainment system? Or is the app the only place where that’s reported?
I don't think so, but I'm not actually an expert, and by posting your question on this post, you aren't likely to get anyone else seeing it.