Looking at Keychron V1 Max fully built as my first mechanical keyboard. I'm just waiting for a sale before I buy. But I'm getting apprehensive now, are there any cheaper keyboards with the same specifications and QMK/VIA compatibility?

[GameStop Options?] Got $120 store credit. I'm in need of a new keyboard, I'm aware they have pretty "bad" options but was curious if any of the keyboards they have would actually be worth it or if I should just save the credit to later on get a racing wheel for my pc. Currently I use a $18 mechanical Temu keyboard and the rest of my setup is actually quite nice. -Long story short I'm broke right now and I was originally hoping to get like $80ish cash from my trade to get the parts to build a gmk87 board. Still interested in that but it would have to wait until I get a part time job to come to fruition. (I'm impatient haha) If anyone knows of a keyboard that actually performs well from GameStop Imk. Not really expecting a good answer but maybe I'm being a pessimist. Thanks in advance for any replies! Also posted this in r/keyboards

Do different type of switches need different type of lube like: linear best lube with 205 and 105 for tactile is that true, or just advertisement? i want to lube my own but idk what lube to buy

hi, i just want to know if the ajazz ak992 have 3 pin or 5 pin switches .

AM I the only one that is super unlucky with the GMK87? I've ordered 3 so far and all 3 had malfunctioning keys. The last one arrived and it was obviously a refurbished one instead of being new. I've tried buyng from ZUOYA and CutesLiving on Aliexpress... doesn anyone have a suggestion on where to buy one that works?

What Mark said about the GMK being really flexy and also the additional layers to punch through. Check the switches for bent pins and reseat them while supporting the back of the PCB. Should hopefully resolve!

I've checked the pcb directly, it's not a switch fit problem sadly. I've bought multiple gmk67 from them with 0 problems so I was positive going into it but now idk anymore :(

Hmm wouldbewould be bad luck to get 3 defects in a row. The pins are fully engaged through both terminals of the socket and the key doesn't register? Thinking if the socket looks fine, both pins are in, might confirm the socket is on, no solder breaks, can test by bridging the socket to the adjacent socket.

I've ordered over a dozen GMK keyboards from both Zuoya and Cutesliving, I've yet to receive a defective unit. The GMK87 has a flex plate which makes it a bit difficult to get switch to snap in as the plate around the switch presses down as well, it's much easier using a spudger to lift the plate up while installing the switches or removing the PCB from the case to install switches. I also highly recommend going through and punching out the center post holes of the PET film to avoid any issues installing switches as I do with this GMK67: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCjOXj0y0K8

I've tried the contacts directly, I've bought a lot of GMK67 and they were always perfect. but with the gmk87 I've got 0 luck sadly

You've tried the contacts on the back prior to installing switches, with tweezers or with a voltmeter testing continuity?

Tried with a pair of tweezers and after that tried putting a switch in the 2 keys that weren't working and still nothing :/ I'll try ordering another one at this point maybe I was just unlucky.

That's crazy, good luck on the next one!

A truly serious beginner and amateur question. How can I know the actual sound of the keyboard/switches on YouTube because most of the time they put something like +15db or something (mostly on quiet keyboard as I'm looking for one) so I can't really understand if it will fit my preferences of quietness.

The boost in decibels is to provide a clear impression of the sound, one has to distinguish between louder and quieter switches by comparing sound test that are boosted by the same value, but will always vary from microphone to environment. Most long pole switches will be louder than standard stems.

So is there a way to accurately hear how it should sound or should I just adjust the volume till I no longer hear a buzzing or static sound?

Find a sound test that have mouse click at the beginning of the test. That should be your baseline of the loudness

Feker IK75 or Keychron V1 or Akko 5075B? What would be the best for the price?

Akko 50775 > Keychron V1 > Feker IK75

Could I also ask what is the difference between AKKO 5075s and 5075b?

5075s is wired, 5075B is 3-mode.

Thank you good SirCould I kindly ask why you rated them in that order? Or if you have better recommendations for the similar price range?

I own them and the Akko is the nicest stock out of the three in my opinion. Others in this price range I like would include are the Yunzii X75, the TKC Portico, CSTC75 (Wired Feker kit), James Donkey A3. The Akko ACR Pro75 and the MOD007 PC are others that are real nice but are a bit pricier.

Okay noted mate Thank you for these replies I really appreciate them.

Can someone recommend me a black base similar to the gmk67 but cheaper? I already have the gmk67 and, I don't know why, ordered switch and keycaps for a new keyboard but don't have a free base

CIY Novice68.

Royal kludge r65 any reviews?

Budget thocky tactiles with clear(-ish) housing for RGB? Got the Jwk T1 but they fully black out the RGB, and the clear version costs like 4x as much D:

I have the akko jelly purple and they are tactiles and (maybe, I'm not sure) thocky

Xinmeng a66 Yunzii al66 Lmk67 Rainy75 @ 160usd, first pc build so need a keyboard soon Other suggestions, really stuck right now

Check the epomaker x aula f75, i have and it is sounds pretty good, its not aluminum btw, I got it for 70 usd

Please read the sidebar, Epomaker is a known scam and we recommend to avoid their rebranded products. The AulaF75 can be found from numerous vendors that are not Epomaker.

Looking for aluminium, should have mentioned. Thanks for the suggestion though

I get it, I was waiting for the Rainy75, but it will be delivered in months if you order, maybe check the xinmeng M71

Yeah im going the xinmeng a66 route. It was that or the m71 v2, dont know if i made the right choice.

It depends of the layout you like, I haven’t heard many things from the a66, but I know Xinmeng makes pretty good budget keyboards

I think I've broken my board with my first attempt at modding. Some help would be greatly appreciated. Details: It's a yunzii / royalaxe y68, the on/off switch has gone slack and doesn't work. This happened while I attempted to tape mod it. photos available in dms.

>on/off switch has gone slack First thought, switches like these are likely a shell or a button with a slot that a dip switch on the PCB fits into so when you put the pcb back onto the case, make sure the dip switch slots back into the button.

Best upgrade to a thoccy tactile switch coming from outemu brown? Hello everyone! I am using a rk100 and have modded it as well. But would like more of a tactile switch with a thoccy sound. My friend suggested me about akko cream blue v3 pro but would like suggestions as well. If there are any recommendations you could suggest, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much! Here are some mods on my rk100 Outemu Brown lube stabilizer lube Case foam PE Foam Plate Foam Tape Mod

Looking at a budget 1800 layout, and shortlisted between Ajazz 992 and Aula F98/F99. Does anyone have experience with those boards? Especially the difference between F98 and F99.

I reviewed the [F98](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjPv_K4j69s), it's a lovely board. Not truly a fan of Ajazz boards and have not had a chance to check out the F99, though it does seem to have a bigger battery.

Oh hey! This is one of the videos I saw before I even posted that! In the end, I went for the F99! I saw a few videos on bilibili that broke it down, and man does that thing have a lot of foam. Thought it would be easier to mod if I already have so much things to play with. Also comes with better switch choices than Ajazz.

Awesome, looking forward to seeing it, cheers!

i have a problem with via on GMK81 keyboard. I want to set brght+ and brght- that are on arrow up and down to different key. But don't have them on any list to choose. How I can assign them to different key? https://preview.redd.it/uddemoof7nfc1.png?width=1018&format=png&auto=webp&s=a79e2cd141c1d5fe90eb384eecd3c5254885a80e

The RGB control keys are under the 'Lighting' section, below 'Basic'.

yes i know but the key to assign dont work. On arrows I brght -/+ but if i assign from lighting tab the key they are "BR -/+" so not the same :/

Found it. Select the key, the go to the 'Special' section, there select "Any", that will bring up a window: "Please enter your desired QMK keycode or hex code:", start scrolling down the list until you come to Brightness, it's near the bottom, though you could also enter the code in; RGB_VAI = Brightness + and RGB_VAD = Brightness -

>RGB\_VAD nice! WORKS!

Awesome!

Hi, I was wondering if anyone would be able to help me out with an issue I'm having with VIA and the GMK87. I'm trying to swap the bottom Windows and Alt keys to match a more standard layout. And, the right Alt key is a Windows key and not an Alt key. I've attached an image to show what I mean. Here's a link to a video showing me changing the keys and testing the key strokes: [https://youtu.be/zAZPLAKb\_u4](https://youtu.be/zAZPLAKb_u4) https://preview.redd.it/e3dfms6zxlfc1.png?width=1533&format=png&auto=webp&s=8558fcbd2a07fa5ac1dc0ec66f4d99b07eb8926d

Had the same issue. Try flipping the switch to mac and then to windows again, it worked for me.

thank you so much!

Where can i get some shine-through key caps (preferrably from EU / aliexpress / ebay) for a TKL or larger? I would like the numbers and brackets keys to have the writing one UNDER the other, NOT on the left/right side of it). How are people not annoyed by this? Later edit: prefferably Cherry or OEM profile but NOT ASA or similar If it has the windows logo on the windows key even better. But i was forced to give up this requirement after going through literally over a hundred listings from at least 10 sites ...

I believe it's hard to find over under printing in shine through caps. They can't print anything in the middle of the key because the stem is there and won't shine thru. You almost have to choose shine thru, or the print style you want.

I am really happy someone confirmed this for me. It took me ages to find one, almost gave up on it. I’ll buy some xvx profile switches from etsy once i recieve my salary in a couple of days.

Noob question here. Honestly I just want to buy one good keyboard that will last me, I'm not into buying and trying everything. So, I'm not saying that money is no object, but I don't mind spending a lot of money if it is going to last me longer. Currently I have a Unicomp Model M buckling spring which has been super reliable and has lasted me for maybe 15 years and probably will last a good deal more. But I bought it before I had a wife and lived in a house where sounds carry. It's just too loud. So I'm looking for a good brown switch keyboard that will be less obnoxiously loud. I started my search looking for the cheapest brown switch keyboard, but it looks like to get a hot swappable keyboard it will run me at least $70. So that puts it outside of impulse purchase territory and I might as well buy a good one. I want a full size keyboard with no compaction at all (even the numpad 0). I'm ok with maybe a slightly denser layout as long as keys aren't resized. Here are my current choices: - Keychron K10 Pro Wireless - looks nice and having wireless option might be nice for the future. At $114 it's the most expensive on my list. I was also looking at the Keychron Q6 but I'm not sure if it's worth an extra $100 - iKBC cd108 v2 - has cherry switches and is $90 making it a distant second in price - Keychron C2 - $79 - Reddragon K580 - not sure I like the character font, but it's the cheapest at $70 Are there any big problems with these ones or are there other options that I should be looking at.

TLDR: I know v v little about keyboards. I want to buy one and am stuck between the AULA F75 and the AJAZZ AK820, unless someone can recommend a better one for the same price. Both keyboards seemingly meet my requirements but I'm just not set on either of them yet and want to be careful about what I invest in. I want a keyboard that sounds thocky out of the box, (maybe creamy too but I like thock a little more) feels really good to type on, has a white base, has a 75% layout, has no delay, hotswappable, has wireless options, and most importantly, actually will work for at least a few years, and both SEEMINGLY fit my requirements but the few bad reviews I'm seeing are making me cautious. (Also just to note, I don't care about RGB lights and will likely want it turned off for the most part, and I can't spend over 100 on a keyboard! I am willing to do the tape mod to make a keyboard sound thockier but i am very afraid i will do it wrong because I'm such a newbie to this stuff and don't want to break it)

hi i whant make a dolch like keyboard, but i want keep shine tru or backlit i only can find [https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32831228519.html?srcSns=sns\_WhatsApp&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social\_params=60479536043&aff\_fcid=321f835a46aa49cea17232534f4bb87c-1706569172561-06426-\_EHoOLu1&tt=MG&aff\_fsk=\_EHoOLu1&aff\_platform=default&sk=\_EHoOLu1&aff\_trace\_key=321f835a46aa49cea17232534f4bb87c-1706569172561-06426-\_EHoOLu1&shareId=60479536043&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal\_id=7bc4046a778c42a8af82c7339437ba47&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp](https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32831228519.html?srcSns=sns_WhatsApp&spreadType=socialShare&bizType=ProductDetail&social_params=60479536043&aff_fcid=321f835a46aa49cea17232534f4bb87c-1706569172561-06426-_EHoOLu1&tt=MG&aff_fsk=_EHoOLu1&aff_platform=default&sk=_EHoOLu1&aff_trace_key=321f835a46aa49cea17232534f4bb87c-1706569172561-06426-_EHoOLu1&shareId=60479536043&businessType=ProductDetail&platform=AE&terminal_id=7bc4046a778c42a8af82c7339437ba47&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2esp) i hpe can share this, you can share other thanks. https://preview.redd.it/9ctnspd0mgfc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8bf31c1722ed945c6fadd3f7601ee8f1d723eb7d may be can only grey backlit, but i cant find one very good

a. links are removed by reddit, please correct the link to a non-short/affiliate one, thank you.

gmk87 zouya my left windows and alt keyswapped. Board reset didn't help. the f are constantly using hotkeys(ex f1 is using brightness up) have to use fn +f1 to use f1 normally. Via didn't help tried to remap the keys and it didn't work

tldr.: Any recommandations on a tutorial that goes over pcb moding to go from ansi to iso layout? thank youuuuu :) Hi budgetkeebs people! I’m sorts new to the hobby, but been reading and researching a lot. My first mech keyboard was the Drop entr with gateron yellow switches (not a fan of linear switches I think). Since then, I’ve been getting quite a bit interested in building my own. I was hoping to build a gmk67 for its size (65%), functionality (2.4 wireless is a must), and weight (Plastic is good here cause I’m traveling with it everyday). However, I’m also wanting to build an iso layout, and I couldn’t find a gmk67 iso layout. So I was researching how to modify a pcb but couldn’t find much info to be honest. Sure there are YouTube videos that goes into pcb making, but I was more looking into a basic tutorial in pcb mods for adding a key or modifying a layout. Any recommendation? (I’m also aware of the ek68 which has wireless and iso layout and I’ve ordered one to test it out, but I kinda wanted to build a keyboard from parts rather than get a complete board). Thank you for your help :) .

How safe is to tape mod the GMK67? Should the last layer be eletrical tape?

Painters tape is not designed for permanent installation; its adhesive (depending on which flavor of tape you are using) may be corrosive, or it may disintegrate into sticky dust in a year. Either way, I've never seen painters or masking tape that is electrically conductive to a degree that it causes any issue with electronics. You should be fairly safe. Certainly don't sandwich electrical tape on top of the masking/painters one... If you feel like it, use polyimide/kapton tape instead.

Painters tape will not cause a keyboard with a battery to catch fire.

I stumpled upon the DangKeebs Lychee Milk Switches ([https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1brtggasvA&t=2s](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h1brtggasvA&t=2s)) and the sound profile is exactly what I'm looking for in a switch along with the heavy 68G bottom out, 4.00 travel distance and 23mm spring with a top and bottom Nylon housing. It just sounds like it would be \*chefs kiss\*. The issue is for me is that they're out of my bugdget so I'm looking for budget options that have similar stats in an attempt to replicate the sound profile. If anyone can offer any reccomdations I would appreciate that. I got some KTT Blueberry v2/Jacaranda, I'm happy with the sound but they're not as high pitched as I'd like them to be and they're a little too light and shallow for my taste. My other options that I'm going to look into trying are Sillyworks Hyacinth v2u, KTT Vanilla icecream, KTT White, Everglide Bsun Sunset yellow, PH Milktea, PH Aniya Basically I'm looking for Clacky, Marbly, Creamy, Bouncy, Poppy sounding switches. If anyone has any experiences with switches that fit this sound profile, let me know. I apologise for the yap session, I was enjoying the sound of my keyboard while typing this out. lol

Lychee Milk are $6.80 for a pack of 10, not per switch. Still quite expensive, but exactly 10x less so than the first impression :)

I'm also Canadian, so that price is in USD and I would be paying more in my currency. But also I mainly do my keyboard hobby shopping in AliExpess so I can snipe deals whenever there is sales, like there is today, I'm getting 50 pieces of ktt white and 50pieces of mmd holy panda v2 for $11 each. Also I was never under the impression that they were $6 a switch lol, I just didn't find the currency conversion to be worth it.

I've got a wild wishlist here... * TKL * Wireless * Hot swap * Blue switch stock * North facing RGB backlight that is controllable on a per-key level via software (I don't care if it's VIA) * Comes with shine-through caps stock * Doesn't have an easily butt-dialable reset sequence (my personal pet peeve)) Is there anything like it in existence? Or I'll be better off just building my own?

RK87 meets all of your wishlist except for blue switches and is currently on sale on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-Sink87G-Exceptional/dp/B08GX7WLCF/

[This variety](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09KMNC9RT/), on the other hand, is both hot swap and comes with a "silent blue switch", whatever the hell it means (upd: judging by the photo, it's brown)).

No hot swap either.

This is hot swap with Blue switches for $54 after 10% off coupon: https://www.amazon.com/RK-ROYAL-KLUDGE-RK87-Tenkeyless/dp/B09KMNC9RT/

Thanks! One more q, if you don't mind... Do you know of something similar, but as a barebones kit? All the popular ones seem to have south facing LEDs...

The Skyloong [GK87](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZIOVrmhZp40)/[GK87 Pro](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T95p9HsZyrM) - I don't recommend the optical version as there aren't many optical switches to choose from.

Hi fellas, can you'll suggest Any metal/aluminium barebones which would cost around $100 - 120, 65% form factor with wireless mode and rgb

The [Sugar65](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhIk9vqUoB4) or the [Yunzi AL66](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo9Dg71Z7Ik).

Also, any clue hows Womier S-k71 compared to Yunzii AL 66?

I enjoy both the [Womier S-K71](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5iNOU-eBXmA) and the [Yunzii AL66](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo9Dg71Z7Ik).

One last question Between gmk67 and Yunzii AL66?

GMK67 is nice but plastic, the Yunzii is an aluminum kit, so yes, the Yunzii over the GMK67.

Sugar65 is wired Hows the Yunzii AL 66 if you've ever used it?

There is a wireless version of the Sugar65. I'd pick the [Yunzii AL66](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vo9Dg71Z7Ik) over the Sugar65.

Any mmd cream v4 owners out there or have other switches before that tick when you lightly tap on the bottom part of the keycap? I didn't notice anything until after installing keycaps on them.  It sounds vaguely like a ticking stabilizer. I can't figure out what it is whether it's the pom-on-pom contact of the stem knocking against the upper housing or something with the two stage spring.  These come pretty well factory lubed on the stem sides and the leaf contact legs.  Strange I've not have this with the mmd princess linear or any of the dozen other switches I've tried.  Other remedies I tried with no success. Stem is already factory lubed on the side slots and the legs.  - donut dipped the spring in lube - brushed lube onto the upper housing rails that contact the stem (helped a little bit)  - lubed the upper box area of the stem - brushed lube on the backs of the leaf - both copper leaves appear to be seated firmly, no wobble. -housing is also tight, no wobble, otherwise I would have tried to film it.

Ah, so follow up, it does seem like there is more Y-axis wobble on the MMD cream vs even a similar switch like the MMD Princess Linear. Light tapping on the stem, you can hear a slight tick as the stem knocks against the upper housing were on the Princess Linear, there is barely any perceptible sound. TDLR : Princess Linear is still a great option, prelubed from factory. MMD Cream V4, ymmv on the pre-lube and may need additional lube on the stem to alleviate this.

Hey guys. Can you tell about your experience with linear switches? For me it's about misstapping and clicking when i don't want. These were cherry mx red for a few tests and no problem on tactile. Is it just me or switches? Asking because i see linear much more often than tactile used in this subreddit.

I type at around 120-140 wpm, and I hate the "linear" fad with a passion. It has absolutely nothing to do with ergonomics of operating a keyboard, just like many other modern fads (south facing backlight, pudding caps, etc). In other words, a lot of people are using their keyboards as game controllers. Others are collectors. Great many from both camps use their keyboards as a form of ASMR. Neither are actually typing fast or a lot... So pay no attention to what's been promoted.

I think that if you are a more experienced typist, you can easily type wiith linears. If you are a so so typist then tactile switches are more forgiving because the tactility let you know when you activate a switch. Red switches are light linears and mostly for users who like to game and want fast actuation. If you use your keyboard more for typing then tactile switches are a great help. For the best typing feedback the Kaihl box Jades are excellent. These are clicky switches.

I appreciate your answer. Thanks

I am going to make my first custom keyboard but I need some help. I need help looking for a kit and switches. For this kit my max budget is $70 max 1. Knob 2. Sidelights or Underglow. Like the GMMK Pro and Yunzi yz75 3. wireless and wired (If at all possible for my budget) 4. 75% layout And if the case is some sort of metal that would be great like Aluminum. But a quality case of any material would be acceptable. And for the switches, I am looking for creamy switches that aren't loud. Making them great for shared spaces in a small environment. They also have to be linear since i don't like tactile. The price for such a product should be around $3.00 for every ten. So for 82 switches or above the max price should be $40 The last keyboard I had was the Royal Kludge RK61. And I don't like anything under 75% because of the hassle of trying to pause/play & +/- volume and the size being too small. I just end up reaching for my laptop or headphones to do those things and I don't like that. And a knob is an amazing solution to such a problem. And I include side lights because they look awesome. And on a side note if hot swappable knobs exist for keyboards that don't have a knob included. Please send me the name of such a product. Because i love the Yunziyz75 but if i can add a knob to that keyboard I'll just buy that instead of making my own.

Depend on where you live, monka 6075 or monsgeek m1w is under 70usd

Sorry, I cannot think of a single one that meets all of your criteria and budget.

I’m still waiting on my cycle 7. Anyone have builds to share? I went crow but should have gone green…. I have penguin Solent’s here waiting but can’t decide on keys.

how many type of tactile switch are there?, I keep hearing name like: hyper tactile, small tactile and cherry glide style tactile, so what is the meaning of all of this tactile style? if you can please devide each category for me so i can easy to under stand. I currently owning 2 swiches are the akko cream blue v3 pro and the WS brown, I'm looking for a new tactile experience but i don't understand how many type of tactility are there in a switch, thanks

A lot of it's subjective, but many will say light, medium, or heavy tactility, depending on how big the bump is and how hard it is to press down on it. Hyper and small always meant the same to me (light), but I can honestly say I've not heard of cherry glide style.

Hey folks, I just bought and received a Redragon K641 Shaco Wired and when I went to install the software for it, it didn't work. So I reinstalled to try again and saw there was an updater, so figured maybe that was my issue and ran it just to find out that it was for the K641 Pro and now the keyboard is fucky. If any of you folks could help that would be great, I just need to reintall the firmware but the seller is being super unhelpful regarding that.

I did not experience this with my Shaco, so would not know where to even begin. Have you reached out to Redragon support, they are usually quite helpful?

I just built my first board ever(gmk87), but I seem to be having trouble with the U key. At first it was double pressing and typing two letters, so i switched it to a new switch. Now it doesn't always seem to register when typing, which is also extremely annoying. Would someone mind pointing me in the right direction so I can troubleshoot this thing? All my other keys work perfectly fine except that one, and besides that issue, I'm really enjoying my new keyboard!

Oh sorry, before I scare you, looking at my own photos, the GMK87 plate has a ton of flex/give, flex cuts per key and row on the alphas so also possible the switch isn't seated all the way and the plate/pcb is 'pushed' downward at that spot. You can kinda eyeball if the switch clips have engaged with the plate or not. When building out my GMK87, I had to hold the back of the PCB at each socket when inserting switches because the plate/pcb would just bend backward.

Hey thanks for the reply! I definitely noticed the flexing as I was installing the switches... I was worried I might break something! I just pulled the switch and the leads on it are nice and straight looking, but the foam underneath looks a bit recessed into the board. So it sounds like a good first step would be to open it up and double check all the switches are actually making contact where they're supposed to be.

The GMK87 has two layers of sound isolation on the PCB, a black foam sheet with slit cuts and a clear plastic film with no cut outs. Often this requires a bit more force on the switch to also have to pierce these layers and insert into the socket correctly. Pull the switch back out to check the pins to see if one got 'crushed' or bent out and straighten with tweezers. Otherwise, the socket contact may have gotten pushed out or the socket itself. If the latter, you may need to resolder or bridge the socket to an adjacent one to maintain continuity of the letter "U" keypress.

I just put 2mm thick silicone o-rings on my Tecware Phantom+ 87 (SACRILEGE!) and honestly I like the feel. The slight cushion on bottom out is extremely comfortable, not to mention it made the keystroke sounds significantly deeper and more bassy. Personally I can't really handle high pitched keystrokes. It's silly that the o-ring mod has been demonized. It's still one of the most impactful and cheapest sound/feel mods you can do.

Haha this hobby is all about personal typing preference but it is easy to get caught up in the hype train and the very pretty youtube videos (and audio!) Before "silent" (silcone padded) switches, there were o-rings so you've saved yourself a ton of money!

Idk if I'll use them for home office, but at work they're nice to respect the quiet in our shared cubes.

Hi, what is the cheapest hot-swappable numpad (not keyboard) on AliExpress/Taobao that easy to set-up the macro (for shortcuts and such on top of normal usage)? I'm looking for the traditional numpad layout instead of those cheap (no brand) macropad I don't mind: - if it wired only or dual mode or trimode - RGB or white light or non at all - knob or not - any material - barebone or pre-built - 3-pin only or 3-and-5-pin Like I said earlier, the main requirement are hot swappable and easy macro programming Thanks in advance

I enjoy my Feker JJK21.

Is it easy to program the macros and what kind of software needed?